EV Digest 4653
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 82 Ford EVscort brake problem
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Warp9 Vs Warp Impulse 9 vs ADC
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Warp9 Vs Warp Impulse 9 vs ADC
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Losing at stop sign takeoffs in my EV.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Steves Mower, was, 2000
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) March to the Salt Flats 2006
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery Boxes / Heat pad ?
by Tom Hudson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: John Deere E90 Motors
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) "Gone Postal" update
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: March to the Salt Flats 2006
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) battery storage charging
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Driving a Sparrow
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: battery storage charging
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: How to check series motor, now shunt
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) GM balks at EV R&D
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: battery storage charging
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Kelvin connection
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Alltrax 7245 controller
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Wh/km or W for electric bikes?
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Battery question (again)
by Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Battery question (again)
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: 2000 mile range EV?
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Alltrax 7245 controller
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) 82 Ford EVscort brake problem
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Cheap and easy thing to try would be to bleed the brakes, and then
try softer pads, such as used for autocross racing.
--- Gabriel Alarcon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Does anybody know of an easy fix for the brakes on a 1982 Ford
> Ev-scort? With all that lead onboard, I cant lock up the brakes.
> I found out the hard way. I almost hit a car. Should the stock
> brakes/drums/rotors do the job?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Cwarman
I've found them to be a direct replacement for both the adc 9" and the
kostofo 11" which I never seem to spell right. . can you give any details as
to what is not in line? steve clunn
www.grassrootsev.com .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cwarman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Warp9 Vs Warp Impulse 9 vs ADC
Well,
Had my heart set on buying the Warp9 with everyones recommendation as its
the best of the two but before I did I was told that it was a direct
replacement for the ADC9 and that if i bought the Motor mount and tranny
kit the warp 9 would bolt right in. Well as i was about to order the
Warp9 today i was told that it WILL not bolt right up, so im unsure what
to do.
Sounds like i may have to buy the ADC motor against my will.....sigh
CWarman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cwarman" <
Well now after talking to NetGain,
He says that the Warp9 NOT the impulse will bolt right into a ADC9
motormount and Adapter kit with no problems. He says the Impulse9 WILL
NOT>>>
Cwarman
This is becuse the impulse 9" was made to replace the adc 8" motor , and 8"s
and 9"s don't mix
steve clunn
t
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Sep 2005 at 20:57, Mark Hastings wrote:
> Now that I found my drivers side
> window shattered when I came out from work ...
Not good. If I were you, I think I'd consider moving.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <>
Dale Glubrecht, who designed mowers for John Deere, told me that the
usual spinning blade cutters are very inefficient. The most efficient
are the old reel-type cutters.
This is very true , the reel mower cuts , where a blade mower pounds . I've
never used a reel power mower but what Neon John says is what I've heard ,
I very quickly learned that, not being the type who keeps a
perfect lawn, small sticks and rocks (large gravel, really) quickly
jammed the reels
So what about using the spinning blade
cutter only when necessary, and pulling reel-type cutters for the bulk
of the job? They are a lot quieter, too!
I think in the 30 years I've been doing his I've only seen 1 reel mower
sitting out side somebody's house , and yes there grass did look like a golf
course teeing green, I don't know how they would do in lawns that are long
and thick like what I end up doing but I'll be looking for a used reel mower
to experment with. .
As Jerry says
" as other may not know, in Fla if you don't mow at least every 2 weeks, you
will have a jungle!!! "
When people water and pour on the fitritlizer it can be tough once a week
.
How about doing what the fork lift guys have been doing forever -- swap
batteries. Have 2 packs that are easily swapped. Put one on charge, and
mow with the other. Swap halfway through the job.
Maybe but right now
My plan right now it to get one of Rich's pfc 50 , and run it off The pack
in my truck ( 25 golf cart ) , I can add another 10 or 15 batteries to the
truck as I have none behind the rear axel and none it the front , this will
give me plenty of kwhours, and I'll be able to use my truck for some long
100 mile+ trips ,and go see Jerry , Paul , and Nick all ev'er that are over
100 miles away. I'll have time between yards while driving and when I'm
doing other stuff ( weed wacking , blowing off drive and talking about ev's)
the mowing part takes about 15minitus , there will always be 15 to 30 min
between jobs and that's when I'll be recharging .
It could be your mower is more efficient than you think, and cutting
grass is just hard work. I'd guess the mower takes about as much
power as cruising a small car at highway speed
Yes and by the gas I use I should have figured this , 1/3 to 1/2 gallon per
yard , . but not for long .:-)
.
Or can be made more efficient.
I ground away most of
the turned-up back side of the blade and rebalanced it. Viola! No
load current draw dropped by about 2/3s and still enough air to move
the clippings out at a decent rate.
This is true but without the lifter you don't get a " professional cut " I
know I'd hear complaints , I can tell when the lifters get wore off , but
then I'm wearing out a set a week and sharpen everyday.
I'm not going to assault foot
high grass with this thing so the high volume air movement isn't
necessary.
This is the one thing I noticed , the electric mower has got the power , as
the rpm gets pulled down the torque goes up and they just keep spinning . ,
from Jerry
If I were doing it I'd use 2 E teks with
10-15/1 reductions,
I'm working with allot of stuff I have laying around , and don't have any
e tecks .. I should say hear I'm already on to mower 2 , which right now has
one series 32v 1/2 hp motor on one wheel with 2 jack shafts gearing it down
, looks like its spinning about right on 36v . Mower 1 has the hydraulic
motors on the wheels so replacing them would not be easy , and just like
cars , there are lots around with blown motors cheep , so mower 2 was chain
driven to begin with and will be easy to set up with electric drive motors.
. ,
>one to each wheel and use a wheelchair joy stick style forklift
controller
One thing I would like or need :-) is to be able to have one wheel going
forward and the other backward , this makes the mower spin around better
without digging up the grass. I don't think this can be done with a joy
stick , these mowers have leavers one leaver controllers one wheel,
or 2 sevcons with reverse, regen for turning, braking to get the least
power drain and complete control of a ZTR mower.
sounds better ,
I can see how they really speed up mowing but at their costs, a Sevcon/e
tek set up should be too bad cost wise and do the job very well.
One could use 1 motor, a diff and speraterately
activated brakes for turning though would have less control.
I was thinking of this also , and it would be easy to set up ,
this is on the list ,
And maybe another E tek to drive the blades with
a resistor to absorb some of the shock if the blade hits something so you
don't overamp the motor..
or one for each blade , ,,, well right now I have , what looks like a city
car motor for no 2 and I'm thinking of putting it right on the deck driving
the middle blade ( out side blades are belted to this one ) through a lov
joy coupler.
130 amphr of 72vdc li-ion would get you about
80+ miles in the Freedom depending on what speed you go.
I'd think there could be a fairly good market
for com EV lawn mowers that didn't make noise or pollution and would
allow you to start earlier without problems, important in the summer with
your long days. And probably get a premium for it.
You could use an inverter to power your other
equipment like blowers, trimmers, ect.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
I have a edger that I replaced the gas motor with a electric motor and it
works great, I run it off my truck pack taped in the middle . so Yes having
a mobile 72 v supply will make this easy ,
Thanks all for your ideas.
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A tale of speed and danger... well, read a Wayland post if you want
that. Now onto a tale of engineering nerdiness!
I'm hoping to have my conversion done by Summer 2006, the only real
pressure there being I want to run it on the Salt Flats in September
2006.
There is something called the 130 club. If you can run between 130
and 140 mph, you get into the club. You have only a mile to
accelerate, the salt is slippery, 4200 ft altitude cuts down on
power, and alledgedly running on the salt costs you 15 mph. Many fast
cars, like supercharged Mustangs, turbocharged Audis, and even V8
Camaros don't make it. The good news about the 130 club is you get a
speed slip even if you don't make it, and you can run a street legal
car. You don't need roll cages, fire suits, etc. I'll be ecstatic if
I can get into the club with my electric, but it'll be fun even if I
break "only" 100 mph. If any other electrics want to join the fun,
and I'll help your effort if I can.
So why am I talking about this already? I want to run my Camaro this
year for practice. I started doing some sims, and saw it is going to
be close, it won't be trivial, even though this is a 155 mph car at
sea level on hard pavement. Any significant headwind will kill my
attempt. Some land speed racers claimed the coefficient of rolling
resistance is 0.10 to 0.17! That's about 10 times what it is for
pavement! With those numbers my car probably doesn't make it.
Ah, but there's no need to take those numbers on faith (they do seem
suspiciously high), I can do coastdowns myself and check. Luck had it
I took my family to the Wendover air show, like I do every year, last
Saturday. Wendover is very close to the Salt Flats. I did some
coastdowns, and later calculated 1.3% rolling resistance and about 10
sq. ft. of effective frontal area. That's about right for the family
car. Then I headed for the Salt Flats to repeat the coastdowns.
Here's the sight I saw:
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats256.jpg>
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats257.jpg>
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats258.jpg>
Rats! The Salt Flats are underwater! While that would certainly make
for a high rolling resistance number, no way I was going to test that
idea! At least this was a very graphic illustration of how the Salt
Flats are actually a very shallow lake. The pictures are towards the
East, the water goes much further looking north.
The racers all have their fingers crossed the Salt Flats dry out in
time. If they do, I'll have another chance to check on that rolling
resistance on salt, and a better number to project in my sims how
well the electric might do.
One advantage electrics have is the air is about 13% thinner than sea
level (the Salt Flats are about 4200 feet above sea level), but no
power is lost because of that. In contrast, an internal combustion
engine loses about 17% of its power at that altitude. This will also
give me about a 0.8 second advantage at my local drag race track.
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
Solectria used Watlow Columbia silicone heater pads in the Force and
E-10. They can be made in any size or shape.
See http://www.watlow.co.uk/products/heaters/ht_flex.htm
Their Columbia, Missouri operation apparently built the pads for Solectria.
-Tom
--
Thomas Hudson
http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club
http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration
http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Sep 2005 at 22:00, Mike Chancey wrote:
> Before I invested in a rebuild of these motors I thought it might be advisable
> to check with the EVDL and see if anyone perhaps knew of a source of
> replacement motors for this beastie. Does anyone have any words of wisdom to
> share on this?
Kansas Wind Power (913 364-4407) may still have some mower motors for the
Elec-Trak and John Deere units. Warning - they are not cheap.
You can usually keep ET mower motors going a long time, but if the bearings
get too bad the armatures whack the magnets and destroy them. They you're
pretty much out of luck. Some ETers buy junk tractors just for spare motors
and parts.
Try posting a note on the Elec-Trak list. Sign up by sending a message to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
containing the word
subscribe
Or you can use the web interface at
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
One warning: the ET list is publicly archived and email addresses are NOT
obfuscated, so use an address with a very good spam filter because you'll
start getting spam within 48 hours of your first post. Another method is to
use one address for reading and another for posting - just discard all or
most incoming mail on the posting address.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Last night by 9:30 pm I had swapped the Quaiffe gear drive posi diff in the
VW Corrado transaxle. After work today I installed it and was done by 8:20
PM. I still have to put the synthetic lube in it and finish hooking up the
borrowed Zilla Z2K thanks to Chris Robison from Austin Texas who will be
with the team on Friday night for the Wayland Invitational Street Drags. We
have new tabs and I have to reinstate the insurance in the morning. It is
still a little tight but nothing like previous years where we were building
vehicles at the track :-) I must be getting old. My birthday is in a couple
weeks. Three years to sixty. Well if your still having fun and racing you
ain't old yet. I think my friend Bob Boyd may be at Woodburn with his latest
drag bike. I think he may be 90 by now and he still remembers tunneling out
of a Nazi concentration camp after being shot down by the Germans. So hey,
I'm still just a kid compared with him :-) I called John Wayland earlier and
he was still working on his car. I gave him a ration of crap and said he
would probably be late for Woodburn again and not even make it to his own
invitational. He assured me he would definitely be there.I think he has too
many fork lift buddies that would never let him live it down. They aren't
quite as mellow as us old ampheads. See some of you this weekend. It will be
a fantastic racing.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
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Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/87 - Release Date: 9/1/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David, I may have missed earlier posts about your car. If so contact me off
line. I have been to Bonneville on numerous occasions and feel I have a good
handle on what it takes to do 130 plus mph in an electric. I was on the pit
crew when my old car "Silent thunder" did 132.353 two way run average.
Actually it ran out of gearing and could have done a bit better. Also
contact me off list for gearing suggestions. I first went to Bonneville in
1992 to watch the "Kenwood Streamliner" from Japan try to break 200 mph.
They had many difficulties and never made a pass. They were running an AC
bullet train motor converted to DC. if they could have solved their problems
it would have went great. There was also a flood on the flats to contend
with that year as well. I was also with the Rannberg team a couple of times
and I met Lloyd Healy there as well who had race some smaller voltage
electric there in the past. I was there when he broke 200 mph.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: March to the Salt Flats 2006
A tale of speed and danger... well, read a Wayland post if you want
that. Now onto a tale of engineering nerdiness!
I'm hoping to have my conversion done by Summer 2006, the only real
pressure there being I want to run it on the Salt Flats in September
2006.
There is something called the 130 club. If you can run between 130
and 140 mph, you get into the club. You have only a mile to
accelerate, the salt is slippery, 4200 ft altitude cuts down on
power, and alledgedly running on the salt costs you 15 mph. Many fast
cars, like supercharged Mustangs, turbocharged Audis, and even V8
Camaros don't make it. The good news about the 130 club is you get a
speed slip even if you don't make it, and you can run a street legal
car. You don't need roll cages, fire suits, etc. I'll be ecstatic if
I can get into the club with my electric, but it'll be fun even if I
break "only" 100 mph. If any other electrics want to join the fun,
and I'll help your effort if I can.
So why am I talking about this already? I want to run my Camaro this
year for practice. I started doing some sims, and saw it is going to
be close, it won't be trivial, even though this is a 155 mph car at
sea level on hard pavement. Any significant headwind will kill my
attempt. Some land speed racers claimed the coefficient of rolling
resistance is 0.10 to 0.17! That's about 10 times what it is for
pavement! With those numbers my car probably doesn't make it.
Ah, but there's no need to take those numbers on faith (they do seem
suspiciously high), I can do coastdowns myself and check. Luck had it
I took my family to the Wendover air show, like I do every year, last
Saturday. Wendover is very close to the Salt Flats. I did some
coastdowns, and later calculated 1.3% rolling resistance and about 10
sq. ft. of effective frontal area. That's about right for the family
car. Then I headed for the Salt Flats to repeat the coastdowns.
Here's the sight I saw:
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats256.jpg>
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats257.jpg>
<http://www.geocities.com/david_dymaxion/SaltFlats258.jpg>
Rats! The Salt Flats are underwater! While that would certainly make
for a high rolling resistance number, no way I was going to test that
idea! At least this was a very graphic illustration of how the Salt
Flats are actually a very shallow lake. The pictures are towards the
East, the water goes much further looking north.
The racers all have their fingers crossed the Salt Flats dry out in
time. If they do, I'll have another chance to check on that rolling
resistance on salt, and a better number to project in my sims how
well the electric might do.
One advantage electrics have is the air is about 13% thinner than sea
level (the Salt Flats are about 4200 feet above sea level), but no
power is lost because of that. In contrast, an internal combustion
engine loses about 17% of its power at that altitude. This will also
give me about a 0.8 second advantage at my local drag race track.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I just got my bat pack, 30 T-125's, and they are sitting on my concrete floor.
They measured 6.20 - 6.18 v when I got them a week ago, now they are at 6.18 -
6.16v. I do not think I will be able to install them for at least the next 3
weeks so I should charge them.
I remember somebody saying that if you put them all in parallel on a 12 vdc
charger then they will get a trickle charge. Is that correct?
They are laid out in 6 rows of 5 bats each. I wired up one 'string' with a
length of 12 g elec wire, wrapped it once around the pos posts, and another
length and wrapped it around the neg posts, then connected it to the charger,
Schumacher 10 amp 12/24 v. Put it on 12v, Deep Discharge. It cycled quickly -
about 15 sec on charging (6.30v), then cycled off for about 5 seconds and back
to charging, I did this for about 5 min and the charge came up to 6.20 for the
string. Does this sound right? How long should I leave it on?
I can wire up all the 6 'strings' of 5 bats each, connect the neg and pos of
each string together, and then charge them all at once, correct?
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wish they had finance plans for paying for conversions :o/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 9:39 PM
Subject: Driving a Sparrow
I loaded 2 fuel cans and drove to the local fuel depot
to put in 10 gallons of gas at $33 in the cans (for
mowers, pontoon boat etc).
As usual I was swarmed by ICE drivers admiring the
little 3 wheeled EV. Comments included 'I think we'll
all be driving those soon', 'That's a really cool
vehicle, I wish I had one instead of this pickup (at
least for local driving)' With current gas prices
people are looking for alternatives, this is good.
The real problem is nothing really exists for them to
buy short of putting a bunch of work into a conversion
(which most are not willing to do). This is an
excellent time to promote EV's. Maybe a very small
percentage will listen and take action (even if it's
0.5% that's a huge market).
Hopefully the conversion market will pick up and make
a little money for the diehard conversion businesses.
We'll see as the gas prices stabilize.
In the mean time I'll enjoy running errands in the
Sparrow.
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Sep 2005 at 22:36, Rush wrote:
> Does this sound right? How long should I leave it on?
NO! Use a 6 volt charger!!!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the pointers Mark. You were right, field in parrallel with the
armerature. So I finally was able to make time to work on it tonight. I
currently have 2 GEM's so I pulled the dash apart on the other one and was able
to hook the controller from the broken one in to the known working GEM without
taking too much off of it. It did the same thing, motor just kind of shuddered
and then shot me that error code saying field current too low. So at this point
it's deffinitely the controller, but this is almost too much of a coincidence
that the controller went right when I put in the new motor. So I pulled the
motor out of the dead one with the wires still connected, and they were
connected properly (the wires are labeled MA1 - motor armerature 1, MF2 motor
field 2 etc.). I then did the perscribed "bench test" of the motor by hooking
the field and armerature up to a 12 volt battery and the motor spun.
So the motor should be ok, and I do know that the controllers they use do
sometimes just go out. They're mosfet rather than the more reliable IGBT. I
guess the question is was it just stuipd dumb luck that the controller decided
to go right as I put the new motor in? A controller rebuild is going to run me
just under $400 so I guess I just need to get it over with and send it in, I
just dont' want to be frying it as soon as I get it back.
Recap, the motor is hooked up right, resistances over the field and armerature
are the same as the stock motor, motor spins when powered via jumper cables and
a 12 volt battery. Am I missing anything here?
Thanks much
Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
First of all, when I worked on the GEM's (Trans-2) they were shunt wound or
Sep-Ex. So the field would be in *parallel* with the armature, *not* in
series! Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter"
To:
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 7:59 PM
Subject: How to check series motor
> Ok I swore I knew this but before I fry anything else I wanted to ask and
make sure I'm doing this right. I'm trying to get a 2000 GEM setup to sell
to a ex neighbor of mine. He lives where there are lots of steep hills so I
tallked him in to the aftermarket ventillated 7.5 hp Class H insulation
motor for it. So I went and got it in the car today and hooked the wires up
to it as marked (this should be idiot proof, I've swapped a motor in another
GEM car before). It's got the field weakening setup so there are two small
wires going to the field and two 4 ga wires going to the armerature. But
when I turned it back on I got an electrical burning smell and the motor
kind of just shuddered for a few seconds then gave me an error code meaing
the field current is to low and the trouble shooting says if the connections
are good and the problem still exists to replace the controller.
>
> So process of elimination here, if I just hook the field in series with
the armerature and use jumper cables and hook it up to a 12 volt battery I
should at least be able to get the motor to spin right? I partially got the
seal on the controller cracked open, looks like I fried some capacitors. I'm
hoping maybe I can attempt to rebuild it, but otherwise my only option
really is to get a rebuilt GE because a lot of the vehicle functions run
through the controller so I can 't just drop in a generic replacment.
>
> thanks in advance.
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Red Insight #559
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
> __________________________________________________
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>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From the EVlist.
The industry "has been working for a hundred years" on batteries,
says Scott Fosgard, spokesman for GM's hydrogen r&d effort. Fuel
cells already are closer to effective use than batteries in
range, cost and practicality, he says.
Total B.S. What are we going to do about this blantant lying. I will never
buy a GM product for one.
Read the whole story: http://www.autoweek.com/news.cms?newsId=102948
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While a 6 volt charger would be ideal, I would just "make" 12 volt batteries
out of them by connecting the negative of one to the positive of another (call
these the inner connects). Do this for all of them and then connect the non
inner connect positives together and the non inner connect negatives together
and you'll have one huge 12 volt battery (that would be 3,600 ah C/20 at 12
volts!). Then hook the charger to that.
Alternatively, if you don't mind charging them more individually you could just
use one inner connect, connect two batteries to the charger at a time and move
that to the next when one's finished.
Go here:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/ProductLiterature/GeneralProducts.aspx
and open the deep cycle battery maintenance brochure, it has diagrams on how to
hook them up.
Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi,
I just got my bat pack, 30 T-125's, and they are sitting on my concrete floor.
They measured 6.20 - 6.18 v when I got them a week ago, now they are at 6.18 -
6.16v. I do not think I will be able to install them for at least the next 3
weeks so I should charge them.
I remember somebody saying that if you put them all in parallel on a 12 vdc
charger then they will get a trickle charge. Is that correct?
They are laid out in 6 rows of 5 bats each. I wired up one 'string' with a
length of 12 g elec wire, wrapped it once around the pos posts, and another
length and wrapped it around the neg posts, then connected it to the charger,
Schumacher 10 amp 12/24 v. Put it on 12v, Deep Discharge. It cycled quickly -
about 15 sec on charging (6.30v), then cycled off for about 5 seconds and back
to charging, I did this for about 5 min and the charge came up to 6.20 for the
string. Does this sound right? How long should I leave it on?
I can wire up all the 6 'strings' of 5 bats each, connect the neg and pos of
each string together, and then charge them all at once, correct?
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
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--- Begin Message ---
It seems to me that I have adjusted my regs once in a while. Once you
adjust it. It then carrys on at that level all by its self for a long time.
But over time you might have to slightly readjust them. Here is the
senario. Person A is at the reg in the front of the car. Person B reads
the voltage at the battery. Person B Calls out voltages. Person A adjusts
the reg untill the battery hits lets say 15 volts. You are done. Go to the
next reg and battery untill they all register the same voltage. My
experience is that this is a little tricky. As you adjust one reg it
effects the other regs. It takes a while but with patience you can have
every battery in your pack at the same voltage at the end of charge. It's
the error that measuring the voltage at the reg 8 feet away will lead you
astray. If one person is at the battery they will tell you when you have
adjusted the reg correctly. Then you are done. The person isn't going to
use a light bulb to do it manually. You need the reg to carry on after you
have found the right voltage. Am I making myself clear? I'm not triggering
the reg. The reg does that by itself after being adjusted properly which is
why you need another person to quicken the process. Is that clear?
Lawrence Rhodes.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: Kelvin connection
I don't understand the question. The Kelvin connection does exactly
that. It measures voltage at the battery.
Are you suggesting that you always stand there and manually measure the
voltage? If so, what do you need a regulator for? Just turn down your
charger when a battery gets charged.
Are you suggesting that you would manually trigger the regulator when
the other guy tells you to? If so, how would you do that? Would you
turn the trim pot so that it kicks in? If so, you'll quickly wear out
the trim pot, as it's not rugged enough to be constantly adjusted.
- Jake
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 1:21 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Kelvin connection
Avoiding all this could one just measure the voltage at the battery?
Would
the reg still function? It would mean a lot of running back and forth
or a
partner but will the regs function that way. Lawrence Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
has anyone ever successfully used a Alltrax 72 volt 450 amp controller in
their road going car that weighs roughly 780 kg. I am still thinking whether
to go curtis. However, i am very attracted to the datalogging function of
the alltrax and also the much much lower price.
Anyone in australia selling these controllers??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day all,
I'm trying to do some EV planning, and I was hoping someone
out there who's built a two-wheeler could give me some numbers:
particularly
* what kind of range are you getting in Wh/km (or Wh/mi)?
* what kind of power (W) does it take to roll along at
about 60kmh/40mph?
cheers, thanks,
Nick (Melbourne, Australia)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Sorry if this has been answered before, I problably
missed it then.
It was suggested that I should use 6V batteries for my
EV, but yesterday I visited a golfcar-dealer and I
noticed some 12V batteries (1 type is 12v/22ah, the
other is 12v/28ah) for golfcars.
So I wonder, are these ok to use in an EV, (I'm still
a newbie at EV-stuff)
thx
Pascal
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--- Begin Message ---
Batteries are made of layers of plates. To get 12V,
there are more layers, but the layers are thinner.
What this means in an EV sense, is that while you'll
have (let's say) 800 lbs. of batteries at 144 volts,
instead of 72V, when you hit the juice and start
pullling amps, your voltage will drop MORE (higher
resistance, thinner plates). When you equalize them,
the surface area (active material) will decrease
faster, so you will have a lifespan of 1-2 years,
instead of 3-4 years or more.
--- Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Sorry if this has been answered before, I problably
> missed it then.
>
> It was suggested that I should use 6V batteries for
> my
> EV, but yesterday I visited a golfcar-dealer and I
> noticed some 12V batteries (1 type is 12v/22ah, the
> other is 12v/28ah) for golfcars.
>
> So I wonder, are these ok to use in an EV, (I'm
> still
> a newbie at EV-stuff)
>
> thx
>
> Pascal
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny, when it comes to lead acid batteries, a good way to estimate range IS
per pound - there is a formula somewhere for that. But you can't compare
other battery technologies that way.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: 2000 mile range EV?
> You're not seriously comparing these on a per-pound basis, are you??
> Sandbags are cheaper per pound than lead acid...
>
> You'd compare as $ per usable amp-hr as the primary figure. Not only
> can you multiply it by its expected lifespan versus another tech, but
> the lower weight means a lighter can so you should be able to get more
> range per unit of usable capacity. There's another multiplier. Of
> course other issues such as instantenous discharge capacity also need to
> be considered.
>
> I still don't buy that they've addressed the cell management and cell
> equalization issues of 10,000 cell banks.
>
> Danny
>
> STEVE CLUNN wrote:
>
> >>
> > Yes and at 80,000 for 1,000 lbs that's 80 a pound , not near as good
> > a deal and what people are using on the list . The 210 lbs pack that
> > I'm thinking of using for my lawn mower will only cost about $50 a
> > pound ,,,
> > I'd like to do a little serve
> >
> > If they started making a golf cart battery that weighted 4 times as
> > much 260 lbs ( for this serve we'll say same cycle life) , twice the
> > size but only cost $5 would anybody use them in an EV ?
> > for me this would be just unuseable .
> >
> > how much would you spend for a golf cart battery that weights 17 lbs
> > and 1/2 the size ?
> >
> > for my ev's I think I might go $150 or 3 time the cost for 1/4 weight
> > , but for the lawn mower $450 as the weight is very important / and
> > 800 lbs of lead will just make it unusable but 210 would work.
> >
> > as the Li-ion should get 4 times the cycles we;ll cut the price per
> > pound by 4 so our Li are $12.5 a lbs where the golf carts are 1 dollar .
> > steve clunn
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
These controllers are built for golf carts, so if you aren't expecting much
better performance than a golf cart you probably won't be dissapointed.
Just remember that Amps = accelaration and volts = speed. With this
controller you will have a car with luke warm acceleration and low top end.
Of course having a transmission will help somewhat, but you will still be
limited. Depending on what you are trying to accomplish though, you may be
thrilled with the results. I have a Honda Insight which weighs in at about
your target weight. The ICE has a peak HP of about 70 and the Electric
motor is somewhere around 13. The two working together make a pretty nice
package with what I consider very accetable performance. The controller you
are looking at can provide a total of about roughly 30 HP which doesn't
sound like enough to keep me happy.
I think that controller is more suited for an Electric Motorcycle.
damon
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Alltrax 7245 controller
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 19:10:40 +1000
Hi all,
has anyone ever successfully used a Alltrax 72 volt 450 amp controller in
their road going car that weighs roughly 780 kg. I am still thinking
whether to go curtis. However, i am very attracted to the datalogging
function of the alltrax and also the much much lower price.
Anyone in australia selling these controllers??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Gabe:
I have a '92 EVcort and I ran through a stop sign in front of a LA County
Sheriff my first week of driving it:^O
There's nothing wrong with the brakes- they're just not designed for a car
that weighs 4600 pounds.
The manual says something about the handling and braking performance being
negatively affected by the extra weight of the batteries, and to familiarize
yourself with it's limitations and drive accordingly.
That being said, I can lock mine up, but I can also tell you that locking
them up allows the car to travel further forward than proper braking
technique.
These cars don't have ABS, AFAIK.
I use the regen mostly, so my brakes are still good with 19,500 on them.
At some point I plan to install beefier rotors/calipers which are available
on the aftermarket.
I know it's hard to believe, but there's people out there devoted to the
"performance" version of this car- It's called the "GX" or something like
that. You can get racing shocks and all kinds of suspension equipment, if
you're willing to pay for it.
Be Careful!
Marv
> From: "Gabriel Alarcon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 19:41:54 -0700
> To: "ev" <[email protected]>
> Subject: 82 Ford EVscort brake problem
>
> Does anybody know of an easy fix for the brakes on a 1982 Ford Ev-scort? With
> all that lead onboard, I cant lock up the brakes. I found out the hard way.
> I almost hit a car. Should the stock brakes/drums/rotors do the job?
>
> Gabe Alarco
--- End Message ---
