EV Digest 4668
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Battery choices Re: Alltrax 7245 controller
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Battery choices Re: Alltrax 7245 controller
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Iota DC/DC Decision
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: EV shipping question
by "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Some pics of my motor online
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Some pics of my motor online
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: CE news
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Some pics of my motor online
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
by "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) "Low Speed Vehicle"
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Shunt motor regen setup
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Shunt motor regen setup
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: 48v source?
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Codecs
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Beware, Re: "Low Speed Vehicle"
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Some pics of my motor online
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: "THATS NOT GOOD"
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Even the 60 lb SCS200(27tmh) buddy paired for the same voltage as the
EV145's at the same pack cost would probably beat the pants off the EV145's
in both range and power at the same voltage if one wanted range value for
the money
How does that work Jerry? Both batteries are 12v. IF you use 12scs200's
yes but now we are getting off topic. There are only 6 batteries. It's a
60 pound or so difference. LR........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6 Sep 2005 at 22:16, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>> Even the 60 lb SCS200(27tmh) buddy paired ... would probably
>> beat ... EV145's in both range and power at the same voltage if one
>> wanted range value for the money ...
>
> How does that work Jerry?
The SCS, while still cyclic batteries, are more like SLI batteries than the
EV-145s are. The SCS range have higher specific power and specific energy,
but they give up cycle life and current-delivering capability for it.
If you want lots of power and energy in a relatively light, cheap package,
an SLI battery is the way to go - for a few dozen cycles. Years ago the
racers used them for that reason.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They are still all dead. The 90 buck deal is dead. The best I've seen is
125 plus shipping for a 55amp. LR...........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Lawrence Rhodes'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: RE: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
Dude:
It is pretty simple to shop on eBay. Just type IOTA on the search line....
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
mZ4572567362QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
mZ4573062189QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/45-amp-IOTA-DLS45-power-converter-converts-110v-to-12v_W
0QQitemZ4573144252QQcategoryZ111103QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
mZ4573185397QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
mZ4573737428QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/IOTA-DLS30-BATTERY-CHARGER-POWER-SUPPLY-12V-30AMP_W0QQit
emZ5806108137QQcategoryZ48708QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/IOTA-DLS30-BATTERY-CHARGER-POWER-SUPPLY-12V-30AMP_W0QQit
emZ5806117125QQcategoryZ48708QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I shouldn't have to hold your hand here. This link will teach you about
searching on eBay:
http://pages.ebay.com/help/find/index.html?fromFeature=Search%20Results
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence Rhodes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 10:33 AM
To: Rick Barnes; [email protected]
Subject: Re: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
Got a URL? LR............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 5:40 AM
Subject: RE: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
I bought a 55 amp 120 VAC model on eBay for $90. I am using it with a
120 V pack, works fine. I do not need 55 amps for my car, it runs cool
and the smart fan does not even need to run. This extra capacity may
come in handy some day (possibly a sound system).
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 12:55 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
Roderick Wilde is using a 120v Iota (30amp version) in Gone Postal.
Gone Postal is 240vdc as far as I know. Others have used the same
model at lesser voltages. One person said they used the 220v Iota at
144vdc. Does
it make a difference? Why are these devices working at obviously varied
voltages and above and below their ratings? I'd like to pay the least
amount for one of these devices. I think I can get by with 30 amps.
That one is close to 100 dollars. Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Found out that the 120v version can take 190v spike. All versions have
brown out protection. That's why your's works at lower voltages. LR.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Iota DC/DC Decision
Forwarded Message
From:"Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To:"Electric Vehicle
Discussion List" <[email protected]>Subject:Iota DC/DC
DecisionDate:Sat, 3 Sep 2005 19:35:56 -0700
Plain Text Attachment [ Download File | Save to Yahoo! Briefcase ]
I've heard that the Iota 120 version works at a very high voltage. The
220version works at 144 I've heard. What is the consensis? Should a 144v
vehicle get the 220 or 120 version? My Controller came and it is rated by
the rebuilder at 700amps.120 to 144vdc.Lawrence
RhodesBassoon/ContrabassoonReedmakerBook 4/5 doublerElectric Vehicle &
Solar Power [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Lawrence,
First off if I murder this this format here it's my first attempt at
digest mode.
I am currently on vacation until next monday. I'm hoping I will have my
hairball back when I return and I can put everything back together and get
the car
going as it should finally. I will then be able to let you know how the
IOTA fairs
at 144 volts under load and such. So if you can hold out for another week
or s
I can tell you for sure how it's going to work.
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 6, 2005, at 7:25 PM, Rick Barnes wrote:
Can I suggest using a video format compatible with both Mac and PC? (is
there such a thing?)
Yes, there are several, although (of course) it depends. It's not just
the file format, it's also the codec used. It's possible to record a
movie in a format that's supported on both platforms, but use a codec
that's only supported on one. That's apparently approximately what
happened by mistake with the DivX files posted by Chris.
The easy way is to view the QuickTime .MOV files on John's site. There
are QuickTime players available for both Mac and PC. If you don't
already have it installed, click here (it's free):
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/
There's also something called VLC that attempts to be a "swiss army
knife" video player. It supports lots of formats and codecs, and is
available for loads of different operating systems.
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
About the only universal video format is MPEG, but almost all of the
others are superior in most ways. Unfortunately, until we see some
consolidation in video formats and codecs, it will continue to be a
crapshoot if a given movie file will play on your computer.
Hope this helps,
Doug
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Paul G.
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: White Zombie video, Re: Woodburn NEDRA Nationals
On Sep 6, 2005, at 5:28 AM, Rick Barnes wrote:
Any tips on how to view the videos (AVI format)?
I cannot view the videos on John Waylands web site either (MOV
format).
I am running Windows XP and Windows Media Player 10. Are you guys
using Macs? Or something like Linux?
The movies on John Wayland's web site require Quicktime. Apple makes
versions for both Mac and Windows. I just watched all the movies on his
site this morning.
The other video from Christopher Robinson requires DivX. I can't get it
to work on my Mac. Perhaps because it requires version 6, which is not
yet available for Mac, or because the file is corrupted. DivX 5.2.1
plug in for Quicktime reports an unexpected end of file error.
Paul
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
*.mov, just like *.avi, is only a container format. It can contain DivX
encoded video streams just as well as *.avi. However *.mov most
commonly contains video using the Sorenson codec which is exclusive to
the Apple QT player and *.mov container, but this is available to a
Windows machine that has QuickTime installed. I don't think it's easy
to get ahold of a tool to encode Sorenson though, it's a proprietary
format. QT isn't available in Linux so I'm not sure what hoops you'd
have to jump through to make it work.
DivX, XviD, and MPEG-4 are far more efficient at quality versus filesize
than the older codecs. DivX is a high performance job, and the effort
is independent of the Microsoft and Apple giants. Very, very popular
format. There's some compatability issues with some versions of Mac OS
they're trying to fix.
http://www.divx.com/divx/mac/divx6.php
So as far as I can tell MPEG-4 in a *.avi file might be the most
compatible. Really the DivX problems don't look too serious though.
Danny
Doug Weathers wrote:
On Sep 6, 2005, at 7:25 PM, Rick Barnes wrote:
Can I suggest using a video format compatible with both Mac and PC? (is
there such a thing?)
Yes, there are several, although (of course) it depends. It's not
just the file format, it's also the codec used. It's possible to
record a movie in a format that's supported on both platforms, but use
a codec that's only supported on one. That's apparently approximately
what happened by mistake with the DivX files posted by Chris.
The easy way is to view the QuickTime .MOV files on John's site.
There are QuickTime players available for both Mac and PC. If you
don't already have it installed, click here (it's free):
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/
There's also something called VLC that attempts to be a "swiss army
knife" video player. It supports lots of formats and codecs, and is
available for loads of different operating systems.
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
About the only universal video format is MPEG, but almost all of the
others are superior in most ways. Unfortunately, until we see some
consolidation in video formats and codecs, it will continue to be a
crapshoot if a given movie file will play on your computer.
Hope this helps,
Doug
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mark,
Here's a list I compiled from comments made on the EVDL from 10/21/2003 to
7/23/2004.
Peter
> Lonnie Borntreger:
> I used TNT - http://www.tnt-inc.com/ - to move my ICE from Chicago to
> California. They're a little more expensive, but it was completely
> hassle free, with an on-time guarantee - and they have great customer
> service.
>
> Here is where I looked to find highly rated transporters in preparation
> for my move: http://www.howwerate.com/
>
> John Lussmyer:
> I used Kiwi Karriers out of Port Townsend, WA to ship a Sparrow from MI to
> WA.
> Of course I purposely told them that there was no hurry, and take as long
> as they wanted. Took a month or so, but I did get a good price.
>
> Rudy:
> Hello - I'm new to the list. In fact I just had my volkrabbit sent to me
> from CA to TX via DASautoshippers (the company ebay recommends)
> http://www.dasautoshippers.com . I've used them several times
> before and have always been happy with them. I'm loving the voltsrabbit
> too, by the way :) . Good luck
>
> James Jarrett
> I used shipauto
> http://www.shipauto.com
>
> to ship my Henney from California to NC. There were a couple of false
> starts getting the car picked up (the mis-keyed the zip code and went to
the
> wrong place first time), but other than that it went smoothly. Only cost
me
> about $900.00 to ship coast to coast and I got it in 4 days.
>
> They do door to door shipping.
>
> Brad Waddell:
> I used Dependable Auto Shippers (DAS) 800-826-1083 - they did a great job,
> had tracking all the way so I always knew where my car was.
>
> Mark Hanson:
> I used intercitylines.com 1-800-221-3936 to ship two GE Elec-Tracs,
> attachments and associated paraphenalia from Roanoke VA to Inverness,
> California last year. Took them a couple weeks to pick up but their prices
> were reasonable.
>
> David Brandt compilation and may duplicate some of the messages herein:
> Mike Chancey:
> I used M & W Trucking, Inc out of Odessa MO. They moved my Forces from
New
> York to Kansas City for $650 each, and they were quick. Their phone
number
> is 816-230-7895 or mobile 417-850-8718.
>
> Derrick J Brashear:
> dependableautoshippers.com shipped my 84 Daytona conversion from the
> seller in Burbank to me in Pittsburgh; It took them less than a week from
> pickup to dropoff including 2 days delay on the dropoff because I was out
> of town.
>
> The seller's comment on the receipt when she gave it to the driver at the
> other end was amusing:
> "Electric car. Drive like golf cart."
>
>
> a.k. howard:
> Might want to check out Passport Transport, which is a a division of
> FedEx.
> www.passporttransport.com.
>
> Regards, A.K. Howard, Las Vegas NV.
>
>
> Tom Peterson:
> I have a flatbed (20ft), and I and my son in law have hauled cars and
trucks
> to be restored. This is not a commercal enterprize. Get with me at:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Mark A Klemosky:
> Reliable Carriers.
>
> Brad Waddell:
> I have used two carriers:
>
> http://a1-auto.com/ A-1 Auto Transport, INC 1-800-452-2880
>
> report: very inexpensive, but they damaged my wheel & tire and would not
> cover my replacement cost, but I used a VISA card and was able to dispute
> that amount, so I would use them again because it was so much less
> expensive.
>
> Dependable Auto Shippers (DAS) 800-826-1083 http://dasautoshippers.com/
>
> White glove treatment at a premium price, about double A1.
>
>
> Bruce Tucker:
> I have been trying to get an ev shipped from Florida to California since
> April. Based upon a low/reasonable bid in line with others, I made a
> reservation with A-1 Auto Transport (www.a1-auto.com). While the stories
> the told me were plausible (truck broke down), in the end they never did
> even come close to giving me a confirmed pick-up date. The worker the
> assigned my case to never returned calls (at one point confessing she
wasn't
> allowed outgoing calls) and her voice sounded like she had no life in her.
> I wonder if the increase in fuel prices is causing some of this backing
out
> of deals.
>
> I still had a few days left on my original 30 day quotes from other
> transporters, so I re-read this FAQ post, and some of the others about
> transporters used for ev's and started calling back a few. I tried
trusted
> auto, but only got voicemail. Wanting to talk directly with someone who
> answered the phone. I kept looking. I ended up with Dependable Auto
> Shippers (www.dasautoshippers.com) who were just about twice as expensive.
> On the other hand, they picked up the car in two days, and it will be here
> within 2 weeks. I should mention that one of the reasons it was more
> expensive is that they stated that whenever a car has been modified, they
> require the use of an enclosed transporter. I also elected to go with
their
> insurance ($119), so if they burn out the controller by applying forward
> power while rolling backwards it will be covered.
>
> So far so good,
> Bruce Tucker
>
> Ben White:
> You might try Blueline Carriers, 626-967-3020.
> They shipped my Honda Civic GX from LA
> to San Jose for $150. I don't think they have
> a web site, but the invoice (I still have it!) says
> they serve the states of CA and GA, among others.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All
Thanks to one of the free things that my internet provider has added to
their package I have been able to put some photos online. They are at :
http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/album01
The photos are of my motor and gearbox assembly in the vehicle. This trial
fit was to ensure that the blower pipes cleared things (they didn't). I had
to change the curve of the drivers' side one (keep in mind Aussies' drive
from the right of the vehicle). The pipes are made from 'U' shaped exhaust
pipe bends. The other thing that doesn't clear is the gear linkages which a
little judicious application of an oxy flame will soon fix.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nice pics mate - we drive on the correct side of the road here in pommy land
too !!
A question tho. This is the first install I have seen pics of that have
blower pipes - do the motors run that hot they need them or are you over
driving them with loadsa power?
John - still planning the 924
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 10:28 AM
Subject: Some pics of my motor online
> Hi All
>
> Thanks to one of the free things that my internet provider has added to
> their package I have been able to put some photos online. They are at :
> http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/album01
>
> The photos are of my motor and gearbox assembly in the vehicle. This trial
> fit was to ensure that the blower pipes cleared things (they didn't). I
had
> to change the curve of the drivers' side one (keep in mind Aussies' drive
> from the right of the vehicle). The pipes are made from 'U' shaped exhaust
> pipe bends. The other thing that doesn't clear is the gear linkages which
a
> little judicious application of an oxy flame will soon fix.
>
> Regards
>
> James
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/91 - Release Date: 06/09/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 9/6/05, Rick Barnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Can I suggest using a video format compatible with both Mac and PC? (is
> there such a thing?)
Well you know a Mac is a kind of Personal Computer, and PC is an
abbreviation for that...
Second, DivX is one of the most popular formats out there. I can't
believe quicktime is the only thing that plays it on Windows.
It played fine for me on Linux as well using noatun. So I think this
is one of the better formats to choose for stuff like this.
Finally, whoohoo!! way to go John! Gets my blood pumping just to
watch this little clip. I wish I lived closer.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I have two different video compressors available from Kino that
produce divx files (M Encoder and FFMPEG), and NEITHER are producing files
that can be read by the DivX player at www.divx.com (which I will consider
the standard player). So, I fiddled more with Kino's standard MPEG1
output, and got it to compress almost as well without even scaling down.
So officially, the video is here, and everyone should be able to play it:
http://ohmbre.org/video/woodburn_2005/waylandslastrun.mpeg
After all that work though, I'll warn everyone that it's basically the
same shot as the one on PlasmaBoy Racing, but with the main part of the
run taken from the other side of the track. In some ways Ross Olson's shot
is better, since it seems like he's closer. On the other hand it was a
worthwhile effort since I have a lot more video to post in the next few
days, and now I think I have a good format for it.
Also, I've dumped my camera here:
http://ohmbre.org/gallery/woodburn_2005
As usual, I'm disappointed at how few photos I took of the actual races --
I spent all my time either in the truck fiddling with my laptop (dumping
video and looking through Zilla data dumps) or shooting video. AustinEV's
Sean Holekamp has more photos; perhaps I can get him to post them for
folks to see.
--chris
Shawn Rutledge said:
> On 9/6/05, Rick Barnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Can I suggest using a video format compatible with both Mac and PC? (is
>> there such a thing?)
>
> Well you know a Mac is a kind of Personal Computer, and PC is an
> abbreviation for that...
>
> Second, DivX is one of the most popular formats out there. I can't
> believe quicktime is the only thing that plays it on Windows.
>
> It played fine for me on Linux as well using noatun. So I think this
> is one of the better formats to choose for stuff like this.
>
> Finally, whoohoo!! way to go John! Gets my blood pumping just to
> watch this little clip. I wish I lived closer.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The CE comes off its summer vacation 6pm fri.at Speedworld just outside
Phoenix.There are just 3 races left in the ADRA super pro series where the best
ICE
bracket racers from each track in az race.The Current Eliminator is ranked
Third, just 1 round behind 2nd place.
My batteries motor and controller and me will start the nite out at
over 106F,its not fun racing this time of year in Phoenix.
Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:08 AM 7/09/05 +0100, John wrote:
Nice pics mate -
Thanks - that's just the camera in my 'phone (1.3 Mpixel). I needed a bit
more light for the closer shots, though.
we drive on the correct side of the road here in pommy land
too !!
A question tho. This is the first install I have seen pics of that have
blower pipes - do the motors run that hot they need them or are you over
driving them with loadsa power?
Hi John - and all
My motor has no internal fan, so I had to do something to cool it. There
are quite a lot of motors with blowers out there, but I'm probably being a
bit anal with the 4 inlet points (adjacent to each brush). An internal fan
is only so-so useful anyway, depending on driving style. You need maximum
cooling at low RPMs, just when an internal fan is performing the least. If
you are able to keep RPMs up all the time, internal fan is plenty. If your
RPMs are low a lot (stop-and-go traffic) then an external blower is a good
idea. It surprises me that the racers don't pull off their fans and use
blowers, to reduce windage and increase high-RPM power.
Additionaly my motor is an old one, so probably only has 100 degrees
celcius rated insulation (not stated on the nameplate). The blower I'm
using is the dash blower from a Honda. My motor had no cooling other than
the case, and is (was) rated 4-1/2 hp, 45V, 1 hour. With the blower I hope
to not overheat it at 30 to 40hp, but I don't think I'll be able to get
anything like close to the 120kW that the Zilla can dish out. With AGMs I
am going to let the battery side run free, but the Zilla allows me to
incrementaly increase the motor amps limit until I see thermocouple
temperatures rising beyond what I'm comfortable with. I may use the
dual-parameter ability of the Zilla to guve more amps for (say) 10 seconds
then drop back, controlled off a switch on the throttle in order to get
smartly off the line, yet keep the heat down.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They are not "dead". Please do the search yourself. There is some problem
when I paste the search result link.
Just type IOTA on the search line where is says START NEW SEARCH
http://www.ebay.com/. There are at least 2 30 amp units with a starting bid
of $0.99. There are 2 55 amp models at $90 and 2 at $95. There is a 45 for
$70 and one for $20
Be patient, the sellers keep relisting them.
If you are near Elkhart Indiana go to one of the RV wholesalers, you can buy
the 55 for $75 there.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 11:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
They are still all dead. The 90 buck deal is dead. The best I've seen is
125 plus shipping for a 55amp. LR...........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Lawrence Rhodes'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: RE: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
> Dude:
>
> It is pretty simple to shop on eBay. Just type IOTA on the search
> line....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W
> 0QQite
> mZ4572567362QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
> mZ4573062189QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/45-amp-IOTA-DLS45-power-converter-converts-110v-to-12v_W
> 0QQitemZ4573144252QQcategoryZ111103QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
> mZ4573185397QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IOTA-DLS-55-Power-Converter-RV-MARINE-HAM-CB_W0QQite
> mZ4573737428QQcategoryZ50073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/IOTA-DLS30-BATTERY-CHARGER-POWER-SUPPLY-12V-30AMP_W0QQit
> emZ5806108137QQcategoryZ48708QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/IOTA-DLS30-BATTERY-CHARGER-POWER-SUPPLY-12V-30AMP_W0QQit
> emZ5806117125QQcategoryZ48708QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> I shouldn't have to hold your hand here. This link will teach you
> about searching on eBay:
> http://pages.ebay.com/help/find/index.html?fromFeature=Search%20Result
> s
>
> Rick Barnes
> Aloha, OR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lawrence Rhodes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 10:33 AM
> To: Rick Barnes; [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
>
>
> Got a URL? LR............
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 5:40 AM
> Subject: RE: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
>
>
>>I bought a 55 amp 120 VAC model on eBay for $90. I am using it with a
>>120 V pack, works fine. I do not need 55 amps for my car, it runs
>>cool and the smart fan does not even need to run. This extra capacity
>>may come in handy some day (possibly a sound system).
>>
>> Rick Barnes
>> Aloha, OR
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
>> Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 12:55 PM
>> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>> Subject: Iota DC/DC. What to use.
>>
>>
>> Roderick Wilde is using a 120v Iota (30amp version) in Gone Postal.
>> Gone Postal is 240vdc as far as I know. Others have used the same
>> model at lesser voltages. One person said they used the 220v Iota at
> 144vdc. Does
>> it make a difference? Why are these devices working at obviously varied
>> voltages and above and below their ratings? I'd like to pay the
>> least amount for one of these devices. I think I can get by with 30
>> amps. That one is close to 100 dollars. Lawrence Rhodes
>> Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker
>> Book 4/5 doubler
>> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
>> 415-821-3519
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I was curious when trying to get a tag for my Bombardier (bought last week),
they had a "Low Speed Vehicle" restriction on the type of vehicle on the Title.
They issue a 25mph restricted tag for this catagory which means I can't drive
it on the roads since most of the country roads around and in Roanoke are
45mph. Some downtown are 35mph. Anyway is there a title service someone knows
of that can change the restriction? I initially sent it back asking the seller
to change it since he originally had "Utility Trailer" on it and that got
rejected.
Thanks, Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Basically, a series motor has just one big PWM controller. A sepex motor
>has two controllers; one big PWM controller (for the armature) and one
>small PWM controller (for the field). Because they can independently
>control field and armature, you can get a larger range of torques/speeds
>out of the motor. Regen is one advantage. Ability to get full HP at high
>rpm is another.
So, I have one of the standard ADC motors with the external connection between
field and armature. Could I remove the external jumper and hook up a sepex
controller to get regen?
Is it that simple or are there other design considerations for the motor?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you get the same regen on a shunt motor down to low speeds with a PWM
control on the armature and a constant voltage on the field?
I have a 72V shunt motor and was going to hook up the field directly and PWM
the arm. I assume this is how the Curtis shunt control does it but I'll put
a scope on it and see if they're PWMing the field also.
I'd have to put a field current detect circuit in to kill the armature
power incase the field became disconnected I assume for safety.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Shunt motor regen setup
> Mark Thomasson wrote:
> > As another option, an easy way to do regen is with a permanent
> > magnet DC motor and a contactor controller. While cruising at a
> > given voltage and speed, drop down to a lower voltage and the
> > motor regens down to the speed corresponding to that voltage level.
> > The more the voltage is dropped, the stronger the regen. No
> > reversing contactor is needed. Simple and elegant.
>
> Yes, that works. The main drawback is your control of the regen (and
> motoring) current is very abrupt. A good PM motor like the Lynch, Lemco,
> or Etek tries hard to turn at a constant speed (proportional to the
> applied voltage. This means when you change voltage step (say, 24v to
> 48v), there is a drastic increase in motor current and a strong "lurch"
> as it tries to instantly accellerate to its 48v rpm. Likewise, when you
> switch back down from 48v to 24v you get a huge regen current and abrupt
> braking as the motor tries to instantly slow down to its 24v rpm.
>
> Series motors aren't nearly so abrupt; their current (and thus torque)
> changes less than 2:1 for a 2:1 voltage step.
> --
> Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has! -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Did anyone find out the useful input voltage range of the 220V model?
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Batteries plus had quite a few selections- Also check
with Radio Shack, Fry's Electronics and your local
scooter store. These are placed that had them when I
was looking for a smart charger for a scooter. Got
mine at Batteries Plus along with a new set of
batteries.
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I need a 48v battery charger (or maybe power supply)
> small enough to use
> on-board a scooter - anyone have one or know of a
> source for a surplus one?
> eBay hasn't been too forthcoming.
>
>
Future 72 Super Beetle conversion in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
People. Codec issues are not generally platform specfic! I have watched
the wayland video's and am reading the Gazette article.
Selecting one format that all can read with default installed codecs,
and sticking to it, would be awsome, alas it is a moving target. Some
believe that the constant changing of versions is just like the instant
messenger wars a few years ago. Yahoo kept changing to cause the other
guys to fail, no other reason. Eventually they saw that since
communication takes at least 2 and that there are alternatives, people
just got pissed off and they lost customers.
Windows free and not missing it.
Gas free really,really soon.
ghidrah ~ # uname -a
Linux ghidrah 2.6.12-gentoo-r9 #1 SMP Sat Aug 20 13:12:34 UTC 2005
x86_64 AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+ AuthenticAMD GNU/Linux
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark and All,
Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi,
I was curious when trying to get a tag for my Bombardier (bought last week),
they had a "Low Speed Vehicle" restriction on the type of vehicle on the Title.
They issue a 25mph restricted tag for this catagory which means I can't drive
it on the roads since most of the country roads around and in Roanoke are
45mph. Some downtown are 35mph.
I believe you are restricted to 35mph roads and under. This is why I
was surprised you bought that vehicle which is an NEV.
Anyway is there a title service someone knows of that can change the
restriction? I initially sent it back asking the seller to change it since he
originally had "Utility Trailer" on it and that got rejected.
If I had it here in Fla, I'd hop it up to 45mph or so, then with it's
new parts, register it as an Assembled from Parts car like any vehicle you
built from scratch as it no longer fits the NEV catagory.
Your state may be different. Call up the local DOT office or whomever
handles home built vehicles, hot rods, ect and don't even mention it's an NEV
as it is just the source of parts, ask them how to register a built from
scratch vehicle and what it requires, here in Fla, just lights, horn, brakes an
go 40mph.. As long as you have the bill of sale for it and any new parts, it
should be able to be retitled as a car. Always refer to the NEV as a source of
parts, not as an NEV..
I'd consider getting your money back as it's illegal to sell a vehicle
without the correct title in most states as it is considered fraud. You should
get it back in small claims court if nothing else. Keep the original utility
trailer docs to prove this.
The guy with the Kewets is back in Fla, are you still interested?
I'll see him next week.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
Thanks, Mark
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All
Christopher Robison wrote:
So officially, the video is here, and everyone should be able to play it:
http://ohmbre.org/video/woodburn_2005/waylandslastrun.mpeg
Chris, it played perfectly on my Mac with Quick Time Player, thanks for
the video.
After all that work though, I'll warn everyone that it's basically the
same shot as the one on PlasmaBoy Racing, but with the main part of the
run taken from the other side of the track. In some ways Ross Olson's shot
is better, since it seems like he's closer.
I don't agree about Ross Olson's shot being better...it's just
different. On yours, you can hear the same, now famous Bob Rice comment
about the motor arcing bit, 'That's not good', but in addition and
absent from our video, you can hear me give the go-ahead to keep
running. You can also see Bob with his video cam. Yes, I love Ross'
vantage point because it's the first time I've ever got to see and
'hear' an EV at 100+ mph speeds...very cool! However, your footage
clearly captures the shift from series to parallel where ours does not.
You can see the car's nose drop a bit, then lift as you hear a definite
change in motor sound and watch the car start to really fly...perfect!
Your video also has clear audio of Roy LeMeur who was doing the
announcing for NEDRA on Sunday...thanks, Roy.
It would be great is someone could blend what appears to be four camera
views into one video...the two we used, and the two you used. I'd start
with your video that has someone saying 'Light em up', then quickly
switch to our's from there...then after our better view and sound of the
tire-squealing launch, switch back to yours with the series-parallel
shift view...then back to Ross' long range view of my small car getting
larger and larger as it rushes towards the camera at the finish line and
flashes by with the sound of 104 mph...then back to your view again with
an even clearer shot of the digital reader board and Roy's announcing.
Man, this post racing video stuff is great!
See Ya......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://plasmaboyracing.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nice pics!
I was wondering if you thought of using PVC piping? It would be much easier to
fabricate, for the dia of the motor you could use a large dia tube and heat it
to fit.
Just a thought from the land of right side up, and where we drive on the
'right' side of the road.... ;-)
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 2:28 AM
Subject: Some pics of my motor online
> Hi All
>
> Thanks to one of the free things that my internet provider has added to
> their package I have been able to put some photos online. They are at :
> http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/album01
>
> The photos are of my motor and gearbox assembly in the vehicle. This trial
> fit was to ensure that the blower pipes cleared things (they didn't). I had
> to change the curve of the drivers' side one (keep in mind Aussies' drive
> from the right of the vehicle). The pipes are made from 'U' shaped exhaust
> pipe bends. The other thing that doesn't clear is the gear linkages which a
> little judicious application of an oxy flame will soon fix.
>
> Regards
>
> James
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First off John I'd like to correct you in that it was Matt husted of Hi_Torque
Electric (you know your motor guys) saying THATS NOT GOOD in the video, funny
you still seem to be blowing him off, LMAO. Ive also seen several pic's of the
Zorched motor from several sources with statements like the motor melted the
brushes. The only damage I saw was a zapped brush holder and a melted brush
spring. We'll know more soon. Anyways I just wanted to set the records
straight as to who was trying to get your attention.
PS: you got that motor puller yet??
PSS: We both had the time of our lives, and can't wait to attend the next
event.
Cya soon
Jim Husted
Hi_Torque Electric
John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello to All
Christopher Robison wrote:
>So officially, the video is here, and everyone should be able to play it:
>
>http://ohmbre.org/video/woodburn_2005/waylandslastrun.mpeg
>
>
Chris, it played perfectly on my Mac with Quick Time Player, thanks for
the video.
>After all that work though, I'll warn everyone that it's basically the
>same shot as the one on PlasmaBoy Racing, but with the main part of the
>run taken from the other side of the track. In some ways Ross Olson's shot
>is better, since it seems like he's closer.
>
I don't agree about Ross Olson's shot being better...it's just
different. On yours, you can hear the same, now famous Bob Rice comment
about the motor arcing bit, 'That's not good', but in addition and
absent from our video, you can hear me give the go-ahead to keep
running. You can also see Bob with his video cam. Yes, I love Ross'
vantage point because it's the first time I've ever got to see and
'hear' an EV at 100+ mph speeds...very cool! However, your footage
clearly captures the shift from series to parallel where ours does not.
You can see the car's nose drop a bit, then lift as you hear a definite
change in motor sound and watch the car start to really fly...perfect!
Your video also has clear audio of Roy LeMeur who was doing the
announcing for NEDRA on Sunday...thanks, Roy.
It would be great is someone could blend what appears to be four camera
views into one video...the two we used, and the two you used. I'd start
with your video that has someone saying 'Light em up', then quickly
switch to our's from there...then after our better view and sound of the
tire-squealing launch, switch back to yours with the series-parallel
shift view...then back to Ross' long range view of my small car getting
larger and larger as it rushes towards the camera at the finish line and
flashes by with the sound of 104 mph...then back to your view again with
an even clearer shot of the digital reader board and Roy's announcing.
Man, this post racing video stuff is great!
See Ya......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://plasmaboyracing.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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