EV Digest 4704
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: evalbum copyright or public domain?
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: NEDRA Records for 2005
by tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Ni-Cad info from A&P General Book
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Plasma Cutter
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EVILbus (was: e-meter type gadget)
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: 9" motor mount for 1980 Rabbit.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Ni-Cad info from A&P General Book
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: E-Chair Lazy Boys - Monolog or Dialog ?
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Plasma Cutter
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Plasma Cutter
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Plasma Cutter
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Solectria Charger Question
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Solectria E-10 power steering not working
by Jacob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Charger wanted
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) curtis controller needed
by "john" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: curtis controller needed
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: electric motorcycle performance
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Plasma Cutter
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Fwd: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Digital or analog gauges
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: evalbum copyright or public domain?
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: NEDRA Records for 2005
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Digital or analog gauges
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Kilovac score on Ebay (and sniping)
by "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Solectria Charger Question
by "EVdave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) e-bike charger
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
ThanX! No, nothing anti-EV, if anything I may be a little TO pro-EV...
I was just building a new page for the Chrysler TEVan and EPic...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_TEVan
To bad I don't get paid to do this kind of stuff either...
L8r
Ryan
Mike Chancey wrote:
> Yes, the images are clear to use, free for pro-EV content, $10000 per
> byte for anti-EV use. :) If anyone want an image to use in a
> newsletter or brochure, I do keep the higher resolution original images
> for all submissions. Just let me know what you need.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, Not all the ev-1's have been crushed GM has about 250 of them left
hiding on the east cost for fool cell reserch (So I have been told) I
pass about 4 of them a day on my way to work -tom
David Dymaxion wrote:
<http://research.et.byu.edu/e-blue/>
The car has been partially gutted, such as having the
trunk-to-interior firewall removed, headlights removed, passenger
seat gone, etc.
--- "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I thought all of the GM EV-1's had been crushed? Anybody have any
info on the Brigham Young University entry?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John wrote:
> Just a thought, did you get a heat shrink "head" with the gun? It is a "C"
> shaped nozzle that contains the heat and directs it around the conductor.
This one appears not to have any nozzle's:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776
This one claims 4 different ones:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47269
"1000 degrees" should be able to shrink, shrink tubing though...? (I'd hope!"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Might be old info for some of you. Others may find something
interesting in it(maybe?).
Interesting cut-away pic:
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/647/nicad13el.jpg
The Ni-Cad info:
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/8163/nicad29qa.jpg
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/9529/nicad45xe.jpg
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/4528/nicad52ej.jpg
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/6615/nicad31ju.jpg
ISBN# 0-88487-339-0
book # JS312690
http://www.jeppesen.com/wlcs/application/commercewf?origin=itemsummary.jsp&event=link(details)&wlcs_catalog_item_sku=JS312690&wlcs_catalog_category_id=AT2A&wlcs_document_type=details
---
For future posts, do you like the .jpg scans, or would you rather have
stuff scanned into a single .pdf?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 20:50:17 -0700 (PDT), David Dymaxion
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>For some tools, getting the better tool saves time and frustration.
>
>I'm planning to get a plasma cutter for my next EV conversion tool.
>Is there really much difference between the $500 Harbor Freight one
>and a $1500 Miller or Lincoln? I need to cut 1/4 inch steel, but
>don't foresee a need to cut thicker than that.
Yes, there is a lot of difference. I'm not very up on the design
details of a plasma cutter but I have used cheap ones, some very good
ones and I currently own a Miller Spectrum 125C. This is Miller's
lightest duty plaz with a self-contained air compressor. About $1200
retail. I picked it up brand new, never used at a pawn shop for $200.
Anyway...
This is primarily a sheet metal and very light stock cutter. It won't
do 1/4" steel very well. It will cut metal that thick but it is
ragged and difficult to keep the arc running. Cutting metal this
thick also consumes very expensive electrodes and nozzles fairly
rapidly.
If I were buying a Miller from scratch, I'd have gone to at least the
next highest power unit, the Miller Spectrum 375. That one does
require an external source of compressed air, something I don't
particularly like.
I really like the Daytona MIG products. They set up a booth at the
Daytona Turkey Rod Run every Thanksgiving weekend. People can use all
of their equipment as long as they like. I particularly like the
second plasma cutter on this page, the 3100:
http://www.daytonamig.com/plasma.htm
Daytona always tries to position themselves just below the "Big Two"
price points, with a little more performance and a few more features.
The downside is that you can't walk into any welding supply store and
buy consumables. You pretty much have to order them from Daytona.
Thermal Dynamics and ESAB are two more reputable brand names. I have
much less experience with these but I've heard good stuff from people
who own them.
A couple of things to check with an unknown machine. One, see how
stable it is when cutting at its thickness limit and two, see whether
it will auto-restrike. This latter feature is quite important when
cutting at the limit. Without auto-restrike, when the arc blows out,
one has to release and retrigger to restrike, usually causing a gouge
in the work. There is minimum disruption of the kerf with
auto-restrike, particularly the very rapid ones like the Daytona MIG
unit.
If I were buying right now, I'd probably buy the Daytona MIG unit.
Their product is more refined than the Miller. Plus I'm tired of
Miller resting on its reputation, offering less than state of the art
products at very high prices.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 9/12/05, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Shawn Rutledge wrote:
> > So you think they could do 10 gigabit ethernet over 50 ohm coax just
> > as easily, if they had the inclination?
>
> Yes. What do you think the data rate is for a cable TV system? They're
> simultaneously sending 50 channels of video, audio, phone, internet, and
> who knows what all else over a single coax cable.
Yeah I know. Anyway out of curiosity I looked up the specs for 10 gig
ethernet over copper. They have also come to the conclusion that it's
very difficult to do with twisted pair, and are putting each pair
inside a shield, and using 4 pairs like that inside another outer
shield. So 4 pairs of twinax with an extra shield, basically. The
cat7 standard may turn out differently but hasn't materialized yet
AFAICT. So I guess statements I've heard elsewhere that "twisted pair
has more bandwidth than coax" were just based on the fact there
doesn't happen to be a standard for 100-megabit ethernet over coax.
It didn't make a lot of sense to me anyway.
> The cheapest CAN bus transceiver I know of are the old RS-485 chips; TI
> SN75176, National DS485, etc. These are about $1 each, but have zero
> intelligence. They just convert TTL logic levels into RS-485 levels;
> it's the equivalent of a MAX232 for RS-232.
>
> The cheapest CAN bus transceiver with controller I've found is the
> Microchip MPC2515, which is $2.75. It has an SPI interface to a
> microcomputer, and is the equivalent of a UART chip for RS-232.
>
> The Freescale MC68HC908GZ8CFA is an 8-bit microcontroller with CAN
> interface, which is $7.65. But it is only an 8-bit micro with 8k of
> memory; I have a feeling the CAN software overhead would use up pretty
> much all of its "horsepower". Most people use micros with significantly
> more speed and memory.
Thanks for the info.
> I want a system with no bus master; where each device can operate
> independently. It broadcasts what it knows, and looks for broadcasts
> from other devices in case they have useful information. For instance,
> an E-meter type device on the EVILbus just broadcasts what it knows
> (pack voltage, current, amphours). A charger on the EVILbus can look for
> this data (like amphours) to do a better job charging the pack. But if
> this data isn't there, it just does its usual job without this
> information.
It sounds like a good strategy. But I do worry that if evilbus is not
widely adopted, it will be just as inscrutable to a stranger. At
least you can find a bigger bunch of engineers who have CAN
experience, or slog through the books and figure it out. And the
future tends to bring faster networks more than slower ones.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not sure yet. I have 200 NiCad batteries. They might fit quite well. 9"
already installed. Would love a Zilla. Need to fix the CV joints.
LR.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: 9" motor mount for 1980 Rabbit.
Hey Lawrence,
What are your plans for the controller and batteries? Are you looking at
the 9" over the 8" for better acceleration? Going to build your own
batery boxes...
Sorry for so many questions :)
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 9/12/05 4:11:53 PM
To: "[email protected]"<[email protected]>, "Electro
Automotive"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 9" motor mount for 1980 Rabbit.
Bless you. Contact me off list for a price. Thanks. Lawrence
Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Electro Automotive" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: 9" motor mount for 1980 Rabbit.
At 03:28 PM 9/10/05 -0700, you wrote:
Has anyone mounted a 9" ADC in a Rabbit? Electro Automotive says they
don't offer a motor mount solution for the Big motor. 8" yes. 9"
no. Any solution? If not I'm making my own.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
We do now. We just haven't had time to put it on the web site yet.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 00:17:31 -0500, Ryan Stotts
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Well presented info.
>ISBN# 0-88487-339-0
>book # JS312690
>
>http://www.jeppesen.com/wlcs/application/commercewf?origin=itemsummary.jsp&event=link(details)&wlcs_catalog_item_sku=JS312690&wlcs_catalog_category_id=AT2A&wlcs_document_type=details
The book name is "S312690 - A&P Technician General Textbook"
Looks interesting.
>For future posts, do you like the .jpg scans, or would you rather have
>stuff scanned into a single .pdf?
>
PDFs. Very much more so. Makes it much easier to read. Just be sure
to leave enough image resolution so that the image can be zoomed for
detail.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 12, 2005, at 10:23 PM, Ryan Stotts wrote:
John wrote:
Just a thought, did you get a heat shrink "head" with the gun? It is
a "C"
shaped nozzle that contains the heat and directs it around the
conductor.
This one appears not to have any nozzle's:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776
That's the one I bought. Nope, no nozzles. It *does* work on the
Waytek extra heavy duty shrink tube with the glue in it, but you need
to be patient. It takes about a minute for me to shrink up an end. I
used a two-inch length of shrink tube.
Mel at Specialty Auto Electric recommended that I try a propane torch.
She's go no patience for the heat guns. Hmmm, I've got a Bernz-O-Matic
in the garage, maybe I'll give that a try on the next cable. But then
again, one minute isn't too bad.
Oh yeah, I'm making my cables now, too :)
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't think anything went out the the EVDL till just rescently. :(
We've been talking about it on the SEVA list since as early as July:
http://www.seattleeva.net/maillist.html?show=2005./7./46
There are some photos of FT's Trike from his build party.
http://www.seattleeva.net/index.php/Current_events
Click on "2005, Sep 24, 1st Annual Recliner races!"
L8r
Ryan
Dave wrote:
> I am glad someone else brought this up, because I wasn't able to
> remember anything about it either.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Hi Steve
>>
>> I will be there with the Crabtree and Cloud camps.
>>
>> I am not sure, but did you actually post all the details of this to
>> the EVDL?
>>
>> Like... where, when, who, and what?
>>
>> I searhed your posts back thru March and did not find it.
>>
>> If those on the EVDL had known about this from the beginning there may
>> have been more interest.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David
I have found a chop saw(reciprotating saw) to work
effectively for cutting metal...(cheeply) just make
sure you've got a fist full of new good metal blades!
Tom
-----snip-----
David wrote
For some tools, getting the better tool saves time and
frustration.
I'm planning to get a plasma cutter for my next EV
conversion tool. Is there really much difference
between the $500 Harbor Freight one and a $1500 Miller
or Lincoln? I need to cut 1/4 inch steel, but don't
foresee a need to cut thicker than that.
A steel cutting blade in a circular saw works OK, but
only in straight lines!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A plasma cutter is a great tool. If you look around you can find other 500
dollar bargains. I found some on Ebay and craigslist. I also did a
websearch using yahoo and found a few at 500 to 600 dollars. LR...........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David, I cannot offer much advice, but please post your results once you get
a unit. I for one would like to hear your evaluation.
For the amount of thick steel I had to cut (less than 3/16" thick), the
bandsaw, with a metal blade, worked just fine. Curves were done with
compound cuts and grinding. I did not need to clean up the (straight) edges
as you will have to with a plasma cutter.
So what, pray tell, are you using 1/4" steel for?
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: September 12, 2005 8:50 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Plasma Cutter
For some tools, getting the better tool saves time and frustration.
I'm planning to get a plasma cutter for my next EV conversion tool.
Is there really much difference between the $500 Harbor Freight one and a
$1500 Miller or Lincoln? I need to cut 1/4 inch steel, but don't foresee a
need to cut thicker than that.
A steel cutting blade in a circular saw works OK, but only in straight
lines!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 12 Sep 2005 at 14:18, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Not sure where it is on NLG4 (David may comment on this), but
> NLG5 has an input you connect a 5k pot to. >5k is full power,
> reducing to zero also reduces input power to zero.
The power limiting pot was not fitted by default to Solectria cars, maybe
not to trucks either. Use a 5k pot. Tie the wiper to one end terminal, and
connect to pins 5 and 6 in the "Clipper" plug.
> > can it be done thru a laptop and the rs232 port? that i would feel more
> > comfortable with...
> You *don't want* to do it with laptop - this is re-programming the
> charging profile every time you switch between 110V and 220V.
Well, sort of. On the NLG4, the first screen you see when you run the nlg_e
utility includes power and current limit values. These are part of the
profile but can be tweaked by themselves.
However, it is not quick or easy. You have to boot up the computer, connect
it, start the program, cycle the power on the charger, wait for the program
to download the current profile data, change the setting, upload the new
setting, then possibly cycle power again (I don't remember that for sure,
but I think so). It wouldn't be worth it for every change in voltage.
Using the power limit pot is MUCH easier.
> One can make BRUSA NLG5 work with Rudman regs which will slow
> down the charger when any battery reach its limits - in this case reg
> bus is connected to the power limiter input of the charger.
The NLG4 has 2 general purpose inputs. Your custom profile can read the
voltage on these inputs and switch to another charging stage when it is
above some value you define. So this could also be done on the older
chargers, should one wish to.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I kind of doubt it's the power of the gun. I have a 1500W heat gun and
on its highest setting it's an immediate danger to anything plastic,
wood, or even painted metal. It does take a few moments to heat up all
the way, but I wouldn't do heatshrink at its max temp unless I had to do
it from a foot away. The tough part is getting the heat to the backside
if you don't have the cable loose where you can apply heat to both sides.
It might burn the outside of really thick heatshink before it soaks
through the tubing so it will shrink. But that stuff with the layer of
sealant is quality stuff and is much better than a simple crimp. Not
that there's anything wrong with crimps.
Danny
Jeff Shanab wrote:
2. I found some really nice, very thick heatshrink tubing with a layer
of sealant inside. I bought a 1500 watt heat gun at harbor freight. 1500
watts is not enough, it takes at least twice as long to shrink than crimp.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any E-10 folks have experience with power steering malfunction. I know the
power steering motor and brushes are fine, (we tested it out independently).
The belt is fine. Both fuses are ok.
Now I'm trying to test out the controller. I have a manual, but there are
some differences as I have a 276V system. Would appreciate any ones first
hand experience with this. Thanx
Jacob Harris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know they're probably rare second hand, but I'd like to get a PFC-20
for general purpose charging of the various battery packs and EVs I
look after. Please contact me off list if you have one for sale.
Thanks
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm in need of a curtis controller model 1231C-8601. Curtis is back ordered
and I really don't want ot wait another month to get rolling again. Anyone
have a good used or new one hanging around that they want to sell? Thanks JOhn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 9/13/2005 4:05:16 AM
> Subject: curtis controller needed
>
> I'm in need of a curtis controller model 1231C-8601. Curtis is back
ordered and I really don't want ot wait another month to get rolling again.
Anyone have a good used or new one hanging around that they want to sell?
Thanks JOhn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I think your best bet might be to start off with a Hayabusa or
> CBR1100XX or similar 300kph bike ... they spent a lot of time
> on aerodynamics on those, and the fairing is relatively protective
> of the rider. They're also quite big, wide bikes which should
> leave room for batteries to fit inside the fairing.
>
> This might be interesting: http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/aero.html
After reading that article, you'd recommend the Hayabusa?
Go back and read it again, pay partiarticularly the part about the Cd of
the "aerodynamic" Hayabusa. A 0.56 Cd put's it roughly in the same league
as a school bus. And it's big, it has a relatively large frontal area to
go with the high Cd.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The big differences in any of the cutters or welding machines is that the
Chinese ones that Harbor Freight makes do not have the heavy construction or
duty cycle times that the Millers or Lincolns will have.
You may find that the unit will time out on you when you are in the middle
of a project. That has happened to me with my Harbor Freight Mig welder a
few times. I keep the stick welder to fall back on as needed.
Just my two cents worth.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 10:50 PM
Subject: Plasma Cutter
For some tools, getting the better tool saves time and frustration.
I'm planning to get a plasma cutter for my next EV conversion tool.
Is there really much difference between the $500 Harbor Freight one
and a $1500 Miller or Lincoln? I need to cut 1/4 inch steel, but
don't foresee a need to cut thicker than that.
A steel cutting blade in a circular saw works OK, but only in
straight lines!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Where did you get the heat shrink with sealant? I'm looking for the same thing
for my 2/0 cables.
Also, does the noalox work with anything besides aluminum?
Thanks
Dave Cover
Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 20:06:27 +0000
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
As I crimp my cables I thought I would mention some observations on
makeing cables.
1. The Burndy hydraulic crimper (with the orange die) is great. I got
mine from ebay.
like item 7546078053 on ebay right now. (I paid less than half the
current bid, but got really reamed on buying a set of dies) They are
less popular now than dieless, but hit the whole crimp area in one shot,
do a better job and No guess work! It goes to a stop then releases when
done. The little dies are held in with a clip and don't fall out.
2. I found some really nice, very thick heatshrink tubing with a layer
of sealant inside. I bought a 1500 watt heat gun at harbor freight. 1500
watts is not enough, it takes at least twice as long to shrink than crimp.
2.5 The heat shrink, which I was using 2-3 inches to cover the fitting
and some cable, actually stiffens the cable near the post. This makes
the nice sweep between posts not so nice. I either need to use less
shrink or allow for the extra length and stiffness.
3. I put noalox in the cad plated copper fitting before I crimp it
I can hardley wait to see how well this all works.
considering dies and a case, this is a good deal @$ 305 so far 7544530920
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:05 PM 12/09/05 +1000, Robert Chew wrote:
Hi all,
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the digital bar graph is the one i was very
interested in. Its in a kit form, for about 15 aussie dollars and has red
yellow green. I plan to have 6 of them together. But mounting is a problem
because of the circuit board. And i am not sure how hardy it is. In
Australia, the summers are very harsh.
Hi Robert - and all
I assume that you are referring to the LM3914 based kits.
Since the device is rated to operate at +70 degrees C, and I suspect that
you aren't ;') , I assume you are in the top end and are worried about the
humidity? Conformal coating is the answer to humidity, and if that isn't
your problem, then don't worry about it. A paralell set of bargraphs (in
dot-mode, so as to get a line) should be a great way to get an
'at-a-glance' feel for pack balance and state. Green line is all good,
yellows are take it easier, red is phone a friend.
The problems I am dealing with (when I get back to that bit again)
regarding using LM3914 ICs on each battery is as follows:
1) Standby current of the system,
2) voltage difference between each board,
3) physical mounting.
4) day/night mode (brightness control)
I am planning on dealing with these issues by placing the ICs on PCBs that
are opto-isolated from the pack voltage (the outputs from each chip having
the optos, yes I bought a heap on special) and scanning the outputs onto a
low-speed buss up to a sample-and-hold display set that I am yet to finish
designing. The ICs will only be powered up when the system is on (reducing
the standby current). Brightness will be controlled at the display end.
The pros and cons of digital vs analogue gauges have been well discussed.
My $0.02 worth is that digital is great for slow-changing values with
quality meters. I have seen a lot of issues with cheap digital meters,
where the sample rates are not fast enough and you end up with aliasing
problems. Many people assume that a digital value is more accurate than an
analogue - but a cheap digital is usually no more accurate, although it's
resolution would imply that it is.
As an example, digital multimeters are typically 1999 count display.
Comparing a cheap meter against a Fluke that has been cal certified is
educating - on 19.99V range, the cheap digital out by 1.5% or more, on
199.9V range similar but in the opposite direction. Cheap panel meters with
thermal drift, cal changes with supply voltage changes. The movement is as
much as the reading errors in a standard analogue meter, but is 'believed'
more accurate because of the resolution. And a digital meter gives you no
'feel' by the position of a needle. In addition, an analogue ammeter can
have a red zone painted in - you can tell other people who have a drive of
your vehicle to "don't let it stay in the red too long" or similar.
Hope this helps
James (in Tassie, parents in Rocky)
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--- Begin Message ---
You can get this heavy duty heat shrink with the sealant from electrical supply
houses and some times from Home Depot.
These heat shrinks normally come in 3 foot lengths are original design for
covering inline splices and then can be direct bury for under ground work. I
used them when I made up my cables.
The only thing is, that these heat shrinks get up to 1/4 inch wall thickness
after you FLAME them. We do not used the normal heat gun on these. When you
purchase this type of heat shrink with sealant, pick up a curve attachment or
the one tip that spreads the flame that goes on a standard head of a hand held
propane torch.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weathers<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: Crimping cables!, getting closer!
On Sep 12, 2005, at 10:23 PM, Ryan Stotts wrote:
> John wrote:
>
>> Just a thought, did you get a heat shrink "head" with the gun? It is
>> a "C"
>> shaped nozzle that contains the heat and directs it around the
>> conductor.
>
> This one appears not to have any nozzle's:
>
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776>
That's the one I bought. Nope, no nozzles. It *does* work on the
Waytek extra heavy duty shrink tube with the glue in it, but you need
to be patient. It takes about a minute for me to shrink up an end. I
used a two-inch length of shrink tube.
Mel at Specialty Auto Electric recommended that I try a propane torch.
She's go no patience for the heat guns. Hmmm, I've got a Bernz-O-Matic
in the garage, maybe I'll give that a try on the next cable. But then
again, one minute isn't too bad.
Oh yeah, I'm making my cables now, too :)
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
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--- Begin Message ---
Ryan,
Great job on the wikipedia!
A couple of corrections on the description.
The DC/DC converter is a stand alone vicor unit using
11 Batmod converters, 1 master and 10 slaves.
You also mentioned NiMh in the TEVan description which
I think was just a typo, it should be NiCd.
The motor control and battery charger where integrated
in the same 'black box'
The power steering compressor motor was BLDC with a 3
phase inverter control.
The air conditioning compressor motor was AC induction
with a 3 phase inverter control, both designed by
Lockheed Martin.
Rod
--- Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ThanX! No, nothing anti-EV, if anything I may be a
> little TO pro-EV...
> I was just building a new page for the Chrysler
> TEVan and EPic...
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_TEVan
> To bad I don't get paid to do this kind of stuff
> either...
>
> L8r
> Ryan
>
> Mike Chancey wrote:
> > Yes, the images are clear to use, free for pro-EV
> content, $10000 per
> > byte for anti-EV use. :) If anyone want an image
> to use in a
> > newsletter or brochure, I do keep the higher
> resolution original images
> > for all submissions. Just let me know what you
> need.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Noel. As David mentioned this is a highly modified EV-1. Also
because of the drivetrain modifications they need a wider turning
radius to get around corners. But that car could fly. At the Power of
DC it beat its previous NEDRA record by 1.8 seconds.
Universities and Museums were given EV-1s provided their main
components were disabled so the BYU drive system is pretty much their
own design and of course it's powered by ultracaps which is neat.
There are still some EV-1s out there on the road that haven't been
crushed or modified and are completely intact. The State of New York
has a small fleet they are using for running errands. I think GM has
asked in return for using the cars they request drivers keep a log for
data collection. We don't know exactly how many of the EV-1s New York
has. So if anyone has a lead on that it would be good to know. They
have been seen up there driving around.
Kind of weird, that initially GM only leased the car in two warm
climates, Southern California and Arizona. But now the only ones
running are in New York.
I personally believe GM is secretly hiding a few intact ones, but the
majority have been crushed.
On a side note, electric GM S-10 owners were given notice by GM that
they have a surplus of EV batteries ( hmmm, I wonder where those came
from) they are auctioning off and since many of the S-10s need new
batteries now GM was giving owners an opportunity to bid on batteries
for their trucks. The auction ended a couple weeks ago. These were the
Panasonic batteries. A friend of mine received a letter from GM about
the offer and was asked to put in a bid if he was interested. So he
responded with a bid but hasn't received any notification yet.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
From: David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<http://research.et.byu.edu/e-blue/>
The car has been partially gutted, such as having the
trunk-to-interior firewall removed, headlights removed, passenger
seat gone, etc.
--- "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I thought all of the GM EV-1's had been crushed? Anybody have any
info on the Brigham Young University entry?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI james and all,
Thanks heaps for your advice. I do like the idea of at the glance style led
bargraph. Also still tossing up with 20 automotive voltmeters. Again,
shouldn't be a problem because of the easy mounting. Although i plan to have
these meters infront of my gearstick and wouldn't be too good for at the
glance style monitoring. Maybe analog gauges and also digital panel meters,
from jaycar at 29.95, configurable to 500vDC. Nice red displays, although
now how do i cut a square hole. Never done it before.
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I bid manually and scored a Kilovac for $11.
Rick Barnes
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Danny Miller
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:01 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Kilovac score on Ebay (and sniping)
Sniping yourself is hardly difficult. http://www.esnipe.com/ costs 1%,
min $0.25, IF you win. If you don't win, eSnipe doesn't charge
anything. I use it all the time and it's great. Very reliable, more so
than installing auto-bidding software on your machine.
Sniping is just turning eBay's proxy bidding system into "silent bid by
proxy". Remember what silent auctions mean? Nobody can see anyone
else's bids, the highest bid wins and the bid is paid at face value.
Sniped eBay auctions are just like that except you only have to pay
enough to beat out the second highest bidder instead of your top bid.
I'm curious why eBay doesn't do the bid extension system. They're
hardly unaware of it, it's by choice. Perhaps someone has a well
defended patent out on it. Or they may not want to deal with auctions
with potentially endless end times. People would still use the sniping
software to bid-up by the minimum amount at the end of every minute and
it could potentially go on for hours or days. They are sure to have
done serious evaluations of the psychological impact and simply not
knowing when the auction ends for real might have been worse than sniping.
Danny
Mike Barber wrote:
>His point is still valid, though. If you put your maximum bid in as
>$100, and someone else bids $101, then both parties should be
>satisfied. If you really would have paid $110, then your original bid
>should have been $110, not $100. Auctions are geared toward hype -
>influencing the perceived value of something by bidding activity. When
>you bid on something, you're giving it value by asserting that you
>think it has worth. This can affect how others value it, and then the
>price goes higher than if you hadn't bid on it. Sniping is a solution
>to this problem.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hey you two, thanks for the input..... i think ill stick with the 220 for
now..... i may make a simple wired plug adaptor and see if it pops circuits
or not..... maybe that would work in a pinch...... the "pot" idea does seem
workable though, at least better then reprograming....
thanks again..
dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 3:46 AM
Subject: Re: Solectria Charger Question
On 12 Sep 2005 at 14:18, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Not sure where it is on NLG4 (David may comment on this), but
NLG5 has an input you connect a 5k pot to. >5k is full power,
reducing to zero also reduces input power to zero.
The power limiting pot was not fitted by default to Solectria cars, maybe
not to trucks either. Use a 5k pot. Tie the wiper to one end terminal,
and
connect to pins 5 and 6 in the "Clipper" plug.
> can it be done thru a laptop and the rs232 port? that i would feel more
> comfortable with...
You *don't want* to do it with laptop - this is re-programming the
charging profile every time you switch between 110V and 220V.
Well, sort of. On the NLG4, the first screen you see when you run the
nlg_e
utility includes power and current limit values. These are part of the
profile but can be tweaked by themselves.
However, it is not quick or easy. You have to boot up the computer,
connect
it, start the program, cycle the power on the charger, wait for the
program
to download the current profile data, change the setting, upload the new
setting, then possibly cycle power again (I don't remember that for sure,
but I think so). It wouldn't be worth it for every change in voltage.
Using the power limit pot is MUCH easier.
One can make BRUSA NLG5 work with Rudman regs which will slow
down the charger when any battery reach its limits - in this case reg
bus is connected to the power limiter input of the charger.
The NLG4 has 2 general purpose inputs. Your custom profile can read the
voltage on these inputs and switch to another charging stage when it is
above some value you define. So this could also be done on the older
chargers, should one wish to.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I put a hub motor on my bike so I could ride the mile to campus instead
of walking (it's uphill most of the way and I'm lazy)
I didn't have a charger because I told myself I wanted to make my own,
so I did. This is what I call a "first generation" charger. It takes 30v
from an old printer SMPS and runs it through a flyback converter to get
13.8v. It is very simple, because I knew the more features I add, the
less likely it would actually get built.
The flyback converter is limited to 50% duty cycle and the core is
designed so that at this duty cycle it cannot put enough current through
any parts to blow them up. Active current limiting would be a smart
idea, but I can only blame myself if I break something. The next one
will have some smarts [PIC18F1220] and be an off-line flyback or
push-pull half bridge. The core is fairly oversized but it's what I had.
[Arnold A-759135-2]
I've put some schematics and the board layout / pictures here:
http://nnytech.net/~format/flyback/
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
