EV digest 5087

Fri, 13 Jan 2006 06:23:32 -0800 

                            EV Digest 5087

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Who Killed the Electric Car? 3/4 sold out
        by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Where can I get a high voltage switch? 48+
        by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Flywheel
        by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: AC Controller, Zivan chargers for sale
        by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Votes - how are we doin' ?- Current Eliminator
        by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Budget EV - contactor controllers, low cost EV's
        by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Votes - how are we doin' ?- Current Eliminator
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: Flywheel
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Flywheel / ring gear
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: Budget EV - contactor controllers, low cost EV's
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: After Marin ampabout, Zivan down, needs exorcism
        by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) RE: : power steering 
        by "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: next project
        by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) RE: Votes - how are we doin' ?
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) 3 EVs in top 5 Position on Drag Times
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: s10
        by Patrick Drone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Who Killed the Electric Car? 3/4 sold out
        by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: 3 EVs in top 5 Position on Drag Times
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Hi-Torque web site up, kinda
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Flywheel
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Who Killed the Electric Car? 3/4 sold out
        by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: EVForge.net Update
        by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: EVForge.net Update
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) No Transmission Option
        by "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Hi-Torque web site up, kinda
        by jerry halstead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: Emeter first power up problems...
        by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: : power steering 
        by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Schaef Motor Sep_ex vs Series help
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message --- 
I checked into buying tickets to "Who Killed the Electric Car?" It is
showing at Robert Redford's Sundance film festival. For presales, 3
out of 4 showings are sold out. I'm hoping I can get tickets after
the presale period or by just showing up and hoping for some
no-shows. If anyone on the list is going please give a movie review
after you see it.




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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Lee said:


 Put diodes across the two contactor coils
I've seen heavy duty contactors with diodes across the coils like this and I've seen them without. What does the diode accomplish in this context? I know a diode is a one-way gate, but what does it do for the contactor specifically? How "bad" is it not to use one? 

Thanks Lee!

-Ken Trough
V is for Voltage
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM/YM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
OK I guess $300 for a new alum flywheel that will give
another 1/4 mile of range sounds expensive.

I called one local shop that wants $20 to remove the
ring gear.

Is that OK. Supposedly they are just spot welded on.
Will it still be balanced enough?

thanks

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I could be interested in this stuff but the plane ride from PA pushes it out of my budget... 
Mike G.
BYU's EV race team is selling an EMS A/C controller that was used in our Formula Lightning and two Zivan chargers. The items can be found at the following auction site: www.publicsurplus.com/IANAuction/ut
Select "Utah" for the region and "Brigham Young University" for the agency -- klick on "browse" -- then select "general" under "electronics" for the items. 

Tom Erekson

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
I wish Dennis had submitted his Current Eliminator.
How about it Dennis?  I'll ship a BLDC blower or pump
for free
if you submit the CE.  Most are 13.8Vdc or 27.6Vdc,
I'll
sends specs if your interested.
Rod

--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Just voted again.
> 
> Nissan 240ZX is 3rd now, it will take some 300+ more
> votes to make it #2 so both two top cars become EVs!
> 
> I bet it will take just one day for 300 list members
> to
> come up with 300 votes today.
> 
> This is indeed a BIG winning and should change
> perception
> of "slow" EVs...
> 
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
> 
> Congrats to all,
> 
> Victor
> 
> --
> '91 ACRX - something different
> 
> 
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
I have been driving my budget EV for about a week with one contactor 
and a 5 speed.  Considering an Alltrax controller for my 48 volts.


--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Tim wrote:
> > It's possible to save even a little more money. If using the 
original
> > manual transmission and clutch, this will give yourself 
additional speeds
> > and you can then eliminate the starting resistor... just select 
36 or 72
> > volts via the 2 speed electric contactor controller and let the 
clutch out
> > slowly in first gear like you do on a gasser then once you cannot
> > accelerate any further then shift to second gear, then third, 
etc till you
> > obtain your desired mph.  With a 5 speed tranny you can have a 
possible 10
> > speeds.
> 
> This works, but just barely. They did it this way on the old U.S. 
Electricar 
> Lectric Leopards. The motor starts with a pretty violent "lurch" 
without a 
> starting resistor. It's pretty hard on things (both the car and 
driver).
> 
> I would strongly recommend at least 3 speeds (with the first 
having a starting 
> resistor) as the minimum for a contactor controller.
> 
> > The above scenario would yield the approx theoretical following 
speeds if
> > 72v and 5th gear equaled 60mph. [snip]
> 
> Your gear vs. speed chart works for a PM motor, but not a series 
motor. A 
> series motor's speed varies considerably dependingon load.
> -- 
> Lee A. Hart    814 8th Ave N    Sartell MN 56377    [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Hey all
   
  We got to save something for next month's voting  ;  )
   
  Cya
  Jim

Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  I wish Dennis had submitted his Current Eliminator.
How about it Dennis? I'll ship a BLDC blower or pump
for free
if you submit the CE. Most are 13.8Vdc or 27.6Vdc,
I'll
sends specs if your interested.
Rod

--- Victor Tikhonov wrote:

> Just voted again.
> 
> Nissan 240ZX is 3rd now, it will take some 300+ more
> votes to make it #2 so both two top cars become EVs!
> 
> I bet it will take just one day for 300 list members
> to
> come up with 300 votes today.
> 
> This is indeed a BIG winning and should change
> perception
> of "slow" EVs...
> 
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
> 
> Congrats to all,
> 
> Victor
> 
> --
> '91 ACRX - something different
> 
> 
> 

  


                
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
 Photo Books. You design it and we’ll bind it!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Hello Mike, 

First go to a auto parts store and have them look up in there catalogs to see 
if it's a internal or external balance flywheel.  If it's a internal balance 
flywheel, than it was balance with or for the engine.  Using a internal balance 
flywheel on a balance electric motor, may cause some vibration. 

If its external balance, than its already balance.  Make sure you align up the 
reference marks on the flywheel and pressure plate.  This are just some color 
paint marks on both units.

After they pull off the ring gear which is just press fit, it best to have it 
balance if its internal balance, which some machine shops can do, or even a 
electric motor repair shop may do.

You will have to get the flywheel and pressure plate balance as a unit.  They 
should mark the flywheel and pressure plate with reference marks for you to 
align when installing. 

Roland 


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mike golub<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
  To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 5:45 PM
  Subject: Re: Flywheel


  OK I guess $300 for a new alum flywheel that will give
  another 1/4 mile of range sounds expensive.

  I called one local shop that wants $20 to remove the
  ring gear.

  Is that OK. Supposedly they are just spot welded on.
  Will it still be balanced enough?

  thanks

  __________________________________________________
  Do You Yahoo!?
  Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
At 04:45 PM 12/01/06 -0800, mike golub wrote:

OK I guess $300 for a new alum flywheel that will give
another 1/4 mile of range sounds expensive.

I called one local shop that wants $20 to remove the
ring gear.

Is that OK. Supposedly they are just spot welded on.
Will it still be balanced enough?


G'day mike
In my experience most ring gears are shrink-fit held in place. Since you won't need it again, get a cold chisel and a hammer, sit the flywheel up on its' side, put the end of the cold chisel into a tooth-gap and give it a couple of good whacks. If you're lucky it'll break first go,and then will come off easily enough. If it doesn't, then lay it flat, with the side it comes off with down, and knock it down using the chisel and hammer. Try and get some good hits where you first whacked it, may break it and have it fall off. If not, work your way around it knocking opposite sides.
If it really won't move, grab an angle grinder, and carefully grind away as much of one spot of the ring gear as you can, without hitting the flywheel too much. Once you've got plenty of it gone, the cold chisel each side of the ground away part should break what's left. I've removed quite a few bearing inners this way where the bearing has collapsed & the inner doesn't want to budge. 

Removal of the ring gear should have no effect on the balance.
Someone with a lathe could remove a lot more weight than that, but you would then likely need to rebalance it. 

Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I happen to have two nice series traction motors from a forklift. If using these with a contactor controller it seems to be a big advantage going series to parallel. This would double your speeds. Since they cost me nothing but my time salvaging them they would seem to make a very cost effective & powerful combo with a contactor controller.. Lawrence Rhodes......... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Budget EV - contactor controllers, low cost EV's



Tim wrote:

It's possible to save even a little more money. If using the original
manual transmission and clutch, this will give yourself additional speeds
and you can then eliminate the starting resistor... just select 36 or 72
volts via the 2 speed electric contactor controller and let the clutch out 
slowly in first gear like you do on a gasser then once you cannot
accelerate any further then shift to second gear, then third, etc till you obtain your desired mph. With a 5 speed tranny you can have a possible 10 
speeds.
This works, but just barely. They did it this way on the old U.S. Electricar 
Lectric Leopards. The motor starts with a pretty violent "lurch" without a
starting resistor. It's pretty hard on things (both the car and driver).
I would strongly recommend at least 3 speeds (with the first having a starting 
resistor) as the minimum for a contactor controller.


The above scenario would yield the approx theoretical following speeds if
72v and 5th gear equaled 60mph. [snip]


Your gear vs. speed chart works for a PM motor, but not a series motor. A
series motor's speed varies considerably dependingon load.
--
Lee A. Hart    814 8th Ave N    Sartell MN 56377    [EMAIL PROTECTED]

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
No no no, I'm running 144 in my Saturn EV with a PFC30 charger. My GEM car (you 
know, those egg shaped NEV's) has a Zivan in it. It's only 72 volts, and 
something like a 10 amp output from NG1. The thing does draw something like 12 
amps from the line though so that alone would generate some heat in any 
connection, throw in the poor fuse holder and melt!
   
  I added some captions to the photos.

Chuck Hursch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Hi Ricky,

Thanks for the tip, and I looked at the photos (annotations would
be helpful, at least saying what this photo is, and you need a
close-up lens or somesuch, but I do appreciate you posting them).
Strange, the pdf file for the NG1 gave me the impression that the
NG1 would have troubles putting anything more than about 8A into
my 96V pack (pdf file on zivanusa site seemed to imply it was
more a lower DC voltage charger). Yet I got the impression from
Greg that it might be closer to 10A or so, and here you are at
144V with your EV using an NG1 (at what amps?).

Chuck

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ricky Suiter" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: After Marin ampabout, Zivan down, needs exorcism


> I'm not really familiar with Zivans other than the NG1 charger
in my GEM car, but here's something to ponder. On the NG1's they
came with a plastic fuse holder for the main power in to the unit
with a 16 amp (yes 16 amp, kind of a weird rating) ceramic fuse
in them. Well you pull ~12 amps at 120 through this and it gets
pretty hot and it's a known issue with GEM's to melt this fuse
holder, and of course mine did just that. Here's some pictures of
the destruction and repair, the fuse holder took an EMI
supression capacitor next to it out with it.
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=fb59
> I just soldered a fuse in directly to minimize any
unnecessary resistance the fuse holder may have caused. I've
corresponded with Greg from Elcon before and if you buy one of
these chargers from him they automatically desolder the fuse
holder and solder a fuse directly to the board.
>
> Now granted when mine went poof I didn't have any strange
electrical things happen in the house, or even a tripped breaker.
>
> Chuck Hursch wrote:
> My 120V Zivan K2, which had been functioning perfectly for
years,
> died last night shortly after I plugged it in. When I plugged
it
> in, it did its usual start-up sequence with the lights and all
> seemed well as I went back upstairs to my apt. As I was washing
> my dishes, I noticed that the 1/4-watt neon pilot light I have
in
> the kitchen for the 20A circuit that goes down to the carport
was
> out. Odd, I thought, that is very unusual. The microwave oven
> on that circuit is also out (no display), so it's not just a
> burnt out lightbulb. Hmmm... Yep, the circuit breaker in the
> closet is tripped. Well, gotta have power to figure out what's
> going on, so I decided to reset the breaker. Immediately heard
a
> sound that seemed like a lot of current was flowing, with a bit
> of light dimming and brightening on other circuits, but the
> circuit breaker did not re-trip. With the Zivan's normal
> soft-start, this would be a bit unexpected, although I would
> occasionally get a bit of pop and arc when I would plug the
thing
> in, I presume charging up some caps (pop would depend I think
on
> how true and quickly the plug went into the AC socket). Well,
> with somewhat heavy heart, I tromped downstairs back to the
> carport, opened the hatch and peered in. No lights, no nothing,
> no smokey smell from the Zivan, just the usual whir of the fan
> venting the rear pack enclosure. I verified pack voltage at the
> charger, and nothing else seemed amiss that would cause the
> charger to malfunction. I disconnected the charger from the
> pack, unplugged the car, and decided to implement Plan B
charging
> in the morning.
>
> Always have a backup Plan B for charging. If I did not, I would
> have a semi-discharged pack sitting for days or weeks while the
> charger is turned around (if repairable), shortening the life
of
> the pack, and making the car unusable. Plan B for me these
years
> is a 20A variac running through a full-wave bridge rectifier. I
> have used this rig for equalizing the car's traction pack many,
> many times, but I have never really done a full bulk charge. I
> thought one of these days I would try a practise run or two,
but
> never got around to it. Now I'm doing it for real, as I write
> this email. I am the servo (cranking up the knob as the pack
> voltage rises, although don't have to do that much during most
of
> the bulk charge as the voltage doesn't move much), and it is
also
> non-isolated charging (yep, the car is wet from last night's
> rain, and the floor of the carport is also damp, but I've been
> there and done that with non-isolated chargers and haven't
gotten
> hurt, just don't like it anymore).
>
> I have a call into Greg McCrea, of Electric Conversions, up in
> Sacramento, the person from whom I bought the Zivan. A live
> person on the other end of the line, a woman, answered the
phone.
> Greg is supposed to call me back. In the meantime, I pour over
> in my mind the possibilities.(and it was a somewhat sleepless
> night last night, thinking about the pack not getting it's
> nightly fill-up, and what's going on with the charger). I'm
> hoping it's nothing more than a blown rectifier that tripped
the
> circuit breaker the first time around, and maybe blew a fuse in
> the charger the second time around. My previous K&W BC-20
> charger had somewhat similar symptoms when it blew its
rectifier
> back in the late '90s, and fortunately that event took nothing
> else in the charger with it. K&W turned it around quickly and
> inexpensively, and I used that charger for another year or two
> before I sold it to another EVDL'er.
>
> So any opinions amongst you learned exorcists out there as to
> what happened with the Zivan?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

  



Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
                
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
 Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, 
whatever.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
If you want to do research online - you can go to www.car-part.com and look
up your vehicle.  It will tell you if there is a manual steering box or not
for your vehicle and it will also tell you what other vehicles have the same
part as your car.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Bob Bath
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: : power steering


With all due respect, that's where you need to
research.  If you've got the hotties for that rig, you
need to get a shop manual.  I remember that my '84
Tercel had the same displacement as the pickup, and
was available for the same price.  I bet there are a
ton of common parts, and that some manuals will cover
the two cars together.  The Tercel even had a 4WD
wagon version!
Parts distributors carry re-manufactured steering
racks, both manual and power, for every rig out there.
 "Steering assembly" perhaps, but I could've sworn I
used the term "steering rack" when I did a search.
Go get 'em!

--- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Did they make 1986 toyota p/u 4wd with manual
> steering?
> What are the name of the parts?
> Not sure what else they call ist besides "rack"?
>
>
> Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 05:51:20 -0800 (PST)
> From:  "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  Add to
> Address Book  Add Mobile Alert
> Subject: Re: power steering
> To: [email protected]
>
> You don't want to leave in the same rack.  The
> gearings (leverage) will be different.  In  the case
> of my Civic, the hatch has manual, the sedan (200
> lbs.
> heavier) has power.  I swapped in the manual, and
> life
> is just fine.  I'm 163 lbs, and the wife is 130, but
> no problems parallel parking, esp. with tires
> inflated
> to 42 PSI.
>
> --- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > In general when the power steering is disconnected
> > what options do you have when you don't install a
> > replacement battery powered pump or do some sort
> of
> > belt connection?
> >
> > 1-Do you have to reconnect a different box?
> >
> > 2-Can you just disconnect the two hoses to the
> power
> > steering, and just let them drain out?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>


'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____
                     __/__|__\ __
  =D-------/    -  -         \
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 

On Jan 12, 2006, at 12:52 AM, mike golub wrote:


http://www.electroauto.com/ doesn't  make an adaptor
for subaru, other than the justy. Not sure why?
From the book "Convert It!" by Mike Brown with Shari Prange (the Electro Auto people):
"Subarus and Mazdas have a design that recesses the flywheel into the back of the engine. This requires a very thick and expensive adaptor plate for the electric motor. For that reason, I don't recommend them." 

Perhaps that's why - it would be too expensive.
I love my Subaru - but it doesn't get particularly good gas mileage. I bet it would make a poor EV because it's not efficient enough. So there's another possible reason - no market.
That said, Mike and Shari will undertake to design and build you an adapter for any transmission you can deliver to them. And perhaps someone's already done this for a Subaru and they have the design on file, saving you the shipping cost.
Anyway, this is all just guesswork. Why not go to the source and ask them? 

<http://www.electroauto.com/contact.shtml>
I also recommend getting a copy of "Convert It!" if you don't have one already. It's still the best book telling you how to do a conversion, even if it's 13 years old. I wish they'd release an update. I'd buy it. Hell, I'd buy a PDF version, which has GOT to be cheaper to produce. 

--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
One vote away from all 3 in the top 5!

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Votes - how are we doin' ?


Just voted again.

Nissan 240ZX is 3rd now, it will take some 300+ more
votes to make it #2 so both two top cars become EVs!

I bet it will take just one day for 300 list members to
come up with 300 votes today.

This is indeed a BIG winning and should change perception
of "slow" EVs...

http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html

Congrats to all,

Victor

--
'91 ACRX - something different

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Hi All, Thanks to you folks I just now reached fifth place with 1000 votes even. Matt is in third with 1123 and John is in first and gaining an enormous lead on second with 1822 votes to 1492 for second. What I have realized is that by the time Matt and I get in second and third position John will be to the moon. By the end of the month the lead of all three electric cars will be enormous. They're going to think we are the Borg or something :-) The impact will definitely be felt! Thanks again all you folks for this very fun exercise in organized effort!
Roderick Wilde 


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.17/227 - Release Date: 1/11/2006

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Wow I just did want to see it go to the crusher. I never thought it would be selling for over $7000.00. And to think that nobody had bid on it till this past Tuesday. Wow. 
Patrick A Drone
Props Artisan/ Welder
Ypsilanti, MI


On Jan 11, 2006, at 11:57 PM, torich1 wrote:



Better hurry on this one...looks in good shape


http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=756819&convertTo=USD

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
I got a private request for this message, but figured I'd broadcast
since we have several EVers in the area:

The showing that still has unsold tickets is at 8:30 a.m. (yes,
morning) at Prospector's Square in Park City on Tuesday, 24 January
2006.

To buy tickets online: <http://festival.sundance.org/2006/> We are
still in the "preregistered ticket sales period." That period ends
soon and I think you can buy tickets starting Monday, which is my
plan.

Plan B is to show up to each of the 4 showings and hope to get in.
The four showings are:

Monday,   Jan 23   8:30 PM   Library Center Theatre
Tuesday,  Jan 24   8:30 AM   Prospector Square Theatre
Thursday, Jan 26  12:00 PM   Egyptian Theatre, Park City
Saturday, Jan 28   3:00 PM   Broadway Centre Cinemas IV, SLC




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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
I actually enjoy and look forward to my vote getting placed every morning.  
Become a little ritual.
  Cya
  Jim

Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Hi All, Thanks to you folks I just now reached fifth place with 1000 votes 
even. Matt is in third with 1123 and John is in first and gaining an 
enormous lead on second with 1822 votes to 1492 for second. What I have 
realized is that by the time Matt and I get in second and third position 
John will be to the moon. By the end of the month the lead of all three 
electric cars will be enormous. They're going to think we are the Borg or 
something :-) The impact will definitely be felt! Thanks again all you folks 
for this very fun exercise in organized effort!

Roderick Wilde 



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---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
 Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Hey all
   
  Thanks to Chris Robison, the site is taking shape.  I was able to upload some 
pics I've taken that I was unable to put on the old site as I had filled it.  
The Utah State Snowmoble and the Stinger are two new albums.  I also through 
some misc. pics to exsisting albums.  The site should prove to be much easier 
for dial up members with out ads popping up and the better use of thumbnails.  
There is still alot to do but I thought I'd let everyone know that there are 
some new pics up and I'll try to post as often as I can as projects and general 
issues and questions arise.  I get a fair amount of private e-mails with kind 
words.  I still consider myself a new member here and I am trying to immitate 
the actions and openess of the charter members who make this a true treasure.  
I look forward to my continuing membership to team EV and the EVDL.
  Hope you enjoy the new site.
  Cya
  Jim Husted
  Hi-Torque Electric
  www.hitorqueelectric.com
   

                        
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Good way to make money (for a shop) ;-)

It will take you about 1 min of your time to remove the
ring gear with angle grinder - in Hondas at least it is
usually tight fit, no welds, + 3 screws preventing rotation
and holding it from sliding off the edge. I suspect many
cars have similar design.

So cut it through at one point and it falls off. Done that.

http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/fly2c.jpg

Victor

mike golub wrote:

OK I guess $300 for a new alum flywheel that will give
another 1/4 mile of range sounds expensive.

I called one local shop that wants $20 to remove the
ring gear.

Is that OK. Supposedly they are just spot welded on.
Will it still be balanced enough?

thanks

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
What a pitty we, poor european's EV fellows, can't watch it :^(
please ask them to bring it on this side of the pond, or make an
unauthorized copy or stole the original movie or maybe sequestering the
producer...

cordialement,
Philippe
Fahrenheit 9/11 fan

Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
 http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:36 AM
Subject: Who Killed the Electric Car? 3/4 sold out


> I checked into buying tickets to "Who Killed the Electric Car?" It is
> showing at Robert Redford's Sundance film festival. For presales, 3
> out of 4 showings are sold out. I'm hoping I can get tickets after
> the presale period or by just showing up and hoping for some
> no-shows. If anyone on the list is going please give a movie review
> after you see it.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Would anyone happen to know where we could get messages prior to April 2003?

Does anyone know when this whole EVDL thing got started? I'm not sure
I've ever
heard about the lists history, it was just here when I arrived, and
seems to have been
going strong long before all the archives began.

L8r
 Ryan

Stefan T. Peters wrote:

> FYI, the search capabilities for the EVDL database at EVForge.net are
> up and running. Basic (but nice and fast) at first, will be adding
> more bells and whistles - time permitting.
>
> I have procured a complete EVDL backlog of individual posts that I
> will be importing into the database, also falling under the "time
> permitting" schedule. The current database goes back to late december,
> if I remember correctly.
>
> You don't have to be a member to use it:
>
> http://www.evforge.net/viewpage.php?page_id=1
>
> But it would be appreciated ;)
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
I think I've been on it since about 1996?  I probably even have
messages stored from back that far, but on increasingly ancient
computers :)
I'd like to hear the history too.

On 1/13/06, Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Would anyone happen to know where we could get messages prior to April 2003?
>
> Does anyone know when this whole EVDL thing got started? I'm not sure
> I've ever
> heard about the lists history, it was just here when I arrived, and
> seems to have been
> going strong long before all the archives began.
>
> L8r
>  Ryan
>
> Stefan T. Peters wrote:
>
> > FYI, the search capabilities for the EVDL database at EVForge.net are
> > up and running. Basic (but nice and fast) at first, will be adding
> > more bells and whistles - time permitting.
> >
> > I have procured a complete EVDL backlog of individual posts that I
> > will be importing into the database, also falling under the "time
> > permitting" schedule. The current database goes back to late december,
> > if I remember correctly.
> >
> > You don't have to be a member to use it:
> >
> > http://www.evforge.net/viewpage.php?page_id=1
> >
> > But it would be appreciated ;)
> >
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
 
In reference to Seppo's comment about using a dual motor setup like John
Waylands;

Can we hear comments from the folks who have dual setups.
Besides racing, how do they perform as an everyday driver?

Looking at this option, the cost impact should be minimal.

Dual motors could be smaller saving $
No transmission adapter to have fabricated, although would have to add cost
of coupling motors together.
No need to rebuild transmission, new clutch, new pressure plate. Also no
future repairs on these items.
Savings on space and weight.

What am I missing?

Any thoughts?

Dennis
Elsberry, MO

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Hi Jim,

Hey, congrats on the nice site and kudos to Chris!

-Jerry

http://www.evconvert.com/


On Jan 13, 2006, at 1:12 AM, Jim Husted wrote:


Hey all
Thanks to Chris Robison, the site is taking shape. I was able to upload some pics I've taken that I was unable to put on the old site as I had filled it. The Utah State Snowmoble and the Stinger are two new albums. I also through some misc. pics to exsisting albums. The site should prove to be much easier for dial up members with out ads popping up and the better use of thumbnails. There is still alot to do but I thought I'd let everyone know that there are some new pics up and I'll try to post as often as I can as projects and general issues and questions arise. I get a fair amount of private e-mails with kind words. I still consider myself a new member here and I am trying to immitate the actions and openess of the charter members who make this a true treasure. I look forward to my continuing membership to team EV and the EVDL. 
  Hope you enjoy the new site.
  Cya
  Jim Husted
  Hi-Torque Electric
  www.hitorqueelectric.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- The pre scaler dose not power the meter , . Just to see that everthing is working hook it to a plane 12v battery . . I think I saw your bike in current events mag , was that you , nice set up / 
steve clunn
----- Original Message ----- From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: Emeter first power up problems...






I must assume your HV+ is not over 36v.
do you have all the other wires hooked up ?
It normally is over this, but it is connected through the 0-100V prescaler. However, I only have half my traction pack sitting on the bike right now, so the highest voltage I have is around 25v. 

damon

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I had very good luck putting the power steering pump on the front ( tail shaft end) of the motor , I used a smaller pulley that what the power steering pump had and smaller that the one that was on the gas engine ( thinking I'd keep the rpm down to save energy) . as the tail shaft form the motor is about in the same place as the pulleys where on the gas engine I didn't have to do much . You may find you like the power steering when you get the car on the road, . Anything you can do later after the car is on the road is probable a good thing to leave till then, as you may find when you get it going that things are different then you think . I was surprised about two things , one how slow the pump could turn and still aid in steering , and 2 how much power it would take or how big a motor I would have to use if I used a separate motor to run just the pump . I had one hooked up pulling 50 v at 50 amp and it wasn't doing the job , . One thing I noticed the when not in use the pump didn't take much power to turn, but start turning the wheel and that load is there big time. 
Steve clunn 5
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: RE: : power steering
If you want to do research online - you can go to www.car-part.com and look up your vehicle. It will tell you if there is a manual steering box or not for your vehicle and it will also tell you what other vehicles have the same 
part as your car.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Bob Bath
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: : power steering


With all due respect, that's where you need to
research.  If you've got the hotties for that rig, you
need to get a shop manual.  I remember that my '84
Tercel had the same displacement as the pickup, and
was available for the same price.  I bet there are a
ton of common parts, and that some manuals will cover
the two cars together.  The Tercel even had a 4WD
wagon version!
Parts distributors carry re-manufactured steering
racks, both manual and power, for every rig out there.
"Steering assembly" perhaps, but I could've sworn I
used the term "steering rack" when I did a search.
Go get 'em!

--- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Did they make 1986 toyota p/u 4wd with manual
steering?
What are the name of the parts?
Not sure what else they call ist besides "rack"?


Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 05:51:20 -0800 (PST)
From:  "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  Add to
Address Book  Add Mobile Alert
Subject: Re: power steering
To: [email protected]

You don't want to leave in the same rack.  The
gearings (leverage) will be different.  In  the case
of my Civic, the hatch has manual, the sedan (200
lbs.
heavier) has power.  I swapped in the manual, and
life
is just fine.  I'm 163 lbs, and the wife is 130, but
no problems parallel parking, esp. with tires
inflated
to 42 PSI.

--- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> In general when the power steering is disconnected
> what options do you have when you don't install a
> replacement battery powered pump or do some sort
of
> belt connection?
>
> 1-Do you have to reconnect a different box?
>
> 2-Can you just disconnect the two hoses to the
power
> steering, and just let them drain out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
> __________________________________________________
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'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
  ____
                    __/__|__\ __
 =D-------/    -  -         \
                    'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- 
Hi,

I bought a 36V 15" x 6.7" Schaef motor part# 7600064 used on a Hyster pump and 
was told it was a series wound motor so I bought an EV-100 control with it for 
use in a 1800lb 72V zev Cushman.  Warfield reworked the motor (replaced 
bearings/brushes turned comm for $325.  I hooked it up and not much happened.  
Turns out the field measured 7MH .9 ohms so it is really a SEPEX motor.  
Warfield here in Roanoke, VA said they can't put in series coils so I'm 
wondering how to control this.  Can I operate the EV100 control directly to the 
armature and connect the field through a resistor to 72V?  OR just connect the 
armature & field in parallel and operate that way?

  I probably would need to add a failsafe field current detect circuit so if a 
wire pops off on the field, the control shuts down.  I'm looking for a simple 
solution as I want to get this up and running as quickly as possible.  Warfield 
headquarters in ILL said they could rewind the field for a series wound motor 
if all else fails, but since the Cushman is direct drive, I need the starting 
torque.

Thanks, Mark

--- End Message ---

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