EV Digest 5132
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: CURRENT ELIMINATOR DRAGSTER NEWS!!!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) Re: Budget EV - motor mount and coupler
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Increasing Range
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Increasing Range
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: How to download? (Re: Futurecrush)
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: registering a conversion in CT.........Fun Stuff!
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: How to download? (Re: Futurecrush)
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Power Supply Question
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) re:Increasing Range
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Increasing Range
by "Jaroslaw \"Jaros\" Berezowski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: need help moving car
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Increasing Range
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Increasing Range
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Power Supply Question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: A new EV Vacuum pump? (Definitely thinking out of the box....)
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: A new EV Vacuum pump? (Definitely thinking out of the box....)
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Increasing Range
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Budget EV - motor mount and coupler
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: A new EV Vacuum pump? (Definitely thinking out of the box....)
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) motor/contoller
by Ron Archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Hey man, your car is on fire !
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Jet Electrica Parts manuals
by Matt Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) re:Increasing Range
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) re:Increasing Range
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: New feature...EVs spotlighted at dragtimes.com
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 1/28/06 9:39:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< All I could tell from your post is that you are extremely excited and
overwhelmed. You must have done fantastic. Congratulations Dennis!
Roderick Wilde >>
The Current Eliminator Dragster won the super pro class in the 1st NHRA
Summit points race of 2006 at Speedworld in Arizona.This is a 7 series race
with
the top 16 from each track across the west meeting up this year in
Fomoso,CA.Last year the team from Speedworld finished in 1st place so the
bracket racers at
my track are the toughest competitors in div.7.I had pretty good reaction
times throughout the eliminations and 1 racer red lite his tree against me.The
towers random pairing set me up with 3 Heavy Hitters and then the final.I
dialed
11.99 had a .010 reaction time and ran 12.001.The other guy had a .021
reaction,his car ran .01 off its dial.Along with a massive lead in points (I
also
qualified #2)over the 05 track champs we brought home over a $1000 bucks.The
details of the race will be written up in NHRAs national dragster mag.in a
couple
of weeks.I possibly now have moreNHRA SUMMIT SERIES points due to our large
car count then any other super pro racer on the west coast.
You to can race at your local track for the fun and bucks.The Summit series
has a street class to bracket race but your car must run less than 25 seconds
in the QT.MI.You slower cars can be effective in this game. Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jerryd says: Use 2 box sections to mount the motor and a
make a coupler with the clutch plate center brings this
to about $60.
Could you give more details on this?
Jerry is talking about the spacers that are needed to get the motor the
right distance for the tranny.
I've made a video of how to do this , along with all the other stuff one
needs to do to build an EV . The only thing that can't easyliy be done is
the hub . I would put making your own coupler/ adaptor plate on the same
level as making your own charger , . Can be done , takes more time , doesn't
look near as good .
How do you make a coupler with a clutch plate center for
$60? Any writeups on this?
Sounds hi to me :-) but then I know how Jerry likes to spend money :-)
O ya $12 of that going to buy my video but you probable could borrow that .
For $20 I could put your clutch spline on the end of a 1 1/8 coupler .
For the motor get most any coupler half of the right
type, shaft size,
The one that I just had let go was made for a taper lock pully made of that
powered steal , not a lot of meat was left after drilling and tapping for
the fly wheel .
This took the power of a 1k , and torque of an 11" but the 2k over powered
it . It had lived for years with a 400 amp crutis. The one that I made the
morning of the drag race at bbb has held up fine and was probable the
easyest one I've done . .
or whole one and retain the piece that
fits the transmission pilot shaft, usually the clutch
spline. Now cut the spline, ect, from the rest of the plate,
ect and weld,
You'll need to turn the 1 1/8 coupler and bore out the one end so that the
clutch spline that you pulled out of the clutch fits inside . There will be
some part on the spline that is round , this is what you use to center it to
the coupler . I bore the end out so that this just fits inside , I then bolt
the two together with a 5/8 long bolt that goes through the coupler and
clutch spline this pulls the spline up tight agents the hub.
can be seen on www.grassrootsev.com in the project section .
spline dose not come up on my spell checker and it just dosen't look right ,
but then most words don't to me .
Steve clunn
bolt, ect it to the coupler half at the
correct length to mate the motor shaft to the transmission
shaft. You could possibly need a bearing on the trans side
depending on which unit you are doing..
If one needs to machine something in this sometimes
you can put it on the motor and run it on 12-24 vdc and use
it as a lathe.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 04:19 AM 1/29/2006, Jaroslaw \"Jaros\" Berezowski wrote:
John G. Lussmyer napisaÅ(a):
AARRGGHH!!! So close and yet so far!
What about charging at work?
The 32 miles is ONE WAY. I already plan on charging at work.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:43 AM 1/29/2006, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
I have a fairly low cost, possible, solution. Use the extra batteries to
power and inverter and run the charger off the inverter while you're at
work. Inverters are cheap these days.
36V inverters?
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
308Mb plays with mplayer and here is what it says about it
Playing FutureCrusH.avi.
Cache fill: 1.56% (131072 bytes) AVI file format detected.
VIDEO: [divx] 480x392 24bpp 14.985 fps 1200.0 kbps (146.5 kbyte/s)
==========================================================================
Opening audio decoder: [mp3lib] MPEG layer-2, layer-3
AUDIO: 44100 Hz, 2 ch, s16le, 128.0 kbit/9.07% (ratio: 16000->176400)
Selected audio codec: [mp3] afm:mp3lib (mp3lib MPEG layer-2, layer-3)
==========================================================================
vo: X11 running at 3200x1200 with depth 24 and 32 bpp (":0.0" => local
display)
==========================================================================
Opening video decoder: [ffmpeg] FFmpeg's libavcodec codec family
Selected video codec: [ffodivx] vfm:ffmpeg (FFmpeg MPEG-4)
==========================================================================
Codecs are seperate from the players. If you don't have the divx codec
on your machine, none of the players will be able to decode it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Interesting idea, it won't work in california. The machine will abort on
no sample and claim it is too clean, "there must be an exhaust leak"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor asked john whats the secret? I wonder if the answer is "don't use
windows"
I got it to download with no problem, I just clicked on the link. There
must be a fallback to work when the OS and browser are not windows. I
don't have a Mac, yet. But I think John does. If so, might I suggest a
less "integrated" browser. :-)
desktop:
ghidrah ~ # uname -a
Linux ghidrah 2.6.14-gentoo-r6 #2 SMP Mon Jan 23 06:02:32 PST 2006
x86_64 AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+ AuthenticAMD GNU/Linux
browser:
Mozilla 1.7.12
Clicking on the download button autmatically triggers save to dialog
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With a transformer-based power supply, like the one on my PC, as long as the
supply is plugged in, there is always AC pulsing through the primary coil
even when there's nothing connected to the secondary side. So some small
amount of energy is being consumed by the resistance in the primary, thus
the power supply case is always a little warm.
With a switch mode supply connected to my traction pack, like a DC/DC
converter or the little wall-wart that Roger Stockton suggested to power my
56V coils, if the output side is disconnected, is the input side still
consuming power?
I guess my base questions is: When you want to turn off the power supply
(for example, when the car is parked and you just want to power things from
the 12V battery), should you put the disconnect switch on the input side or
the output side?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How much range could be had if EVERYTHING except drive was on it's own
36V pack.
Then use a 164 to 36 dc-dc as a charger. Then you don't have to change much!
Or make the 30 cells into a 14V setup and use dc-dc, just to keep
voltages manageable for finding dc-dc and lights and heaters...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John G. Lussmyer napisał(a):
AARRGGHH!!! So close and yet so far!
What about charging at work?
The 32 miles is ONE WAY. I already plan on charging at work.
Sorry. I must be blind.
--
Jaroslaw "Jaros" Berezowski
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth Rothenberg wrote:
I mentioned here that I was considering a car
in Maryland, and asked advice how to get it to NJ.
Some people suggest I post details and might find help.
Seth,
Sometimes you can get a transport company discount, if your vehicle is
added to an almost-full load at the last minute.
I just happened to run across this advert (Swift Family Transport,
specializing in Carolina to NJ auto-transport) on eBay this morning...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606889126
Good luck.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wayland writes:
>
> The opening page at Dragtimes.com just changed. Now, in the upper left
> corner there's new wordage referring to two new featured pages, one for
> 'Muscle Cars' and one for 'Electric Cars'! How cool is this?
I'm not sure this is good news. It puts electric vehicles in a different
category than ICEs, but the intent was to show how EVs are just as capable
as ICEs... Why aren't White Zombie or Maniac Mazada listed under Mucsle
Cars?
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
I would suggest selling the DCP controller and buying a Z1K HV, with
an input voltage range from 72-300v. Then you can add the additional
cells (and more if you can find room) without playing games with odd
DC/DCs or inverters.
Ralph
John G. Lussmyer writes:
>
> My Sparrow currently uses about 195 Wh/mile.
> I have 137 BB600 NiCd cell in it, for a nominal pack voltage of 164v,
> and a peak charging voltage of 205v.
> Since it has a DCP Raptor controller, I make sure the voltage is
> below 195 before turning the car on. (Generally it drops down to
> that within seconds of turning off the charger.)
> My problem is that I need a little more range. With the current pack
> and power usage, I have about a 33 mile range to 100% DOD. (without
> using the heater or wipers!) My commute is 32 miles one way, and I
> will likely need the heater and/or wipers.
> I can add another 30 cells (36V) to the bird, and only make it medium
> difficult to add water to the cells. (and a royal pain wedging the
> charger in a new location.) This should give me another 20% range,
> or about 6 miles more. Enough that I would feel ok to drive to work.
>
> The problem is what to do with this extra power.
> Adding them in series to the current pack goes over the controller voltage.
> Making the pack 2 parallel strings gives me a 100V pack, which is too
> low for the controller.
> The only other thing I've been able to think of would be to get a 36V
> to 164v DC-DC that can handle about 1800-2000 Watts.
>
> AARRGGHH!!! So close and yet so far!
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
> http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Ralph Merwin wrote:
John Wayland writes:
The opening page at Dragtimes.com just changed. Now, in the upper left
corner there's new wordage referring to two new featured pages, one for
'Muscle Cars' and one for 'Electric Cars'! How cool is this?
I'm not sure this is good news. It puts electric vehicles in a different
category than ICEs, but the intent was to show how EVs are just as capable
as ICEs...
As always, Ralph brings up a good point...hmmmm.
Why aren't White Zombie or Maniac Mazada listed under Mucsle
Cars?
Of the 15 muscle cars featured, the bulk of them are 9 second screamers,
with three dipping into the 8's, one is in the 10's, and the slowest two
there are 11 second machines. White Zombie is not in this league (yet),
but Maniac Mazda certainly is with it's near 11 flat run. Taking Maniac
Mazda out of the new 'Electric Cars' section would leave just three
electrics, and I think Brooks wanted to have enough EVs to neatly fill
the page.
As to the normal term 'muscle car', it's generally meant to refer to the
60's and early 70's American iron powered by powerful V8s, like Road
Runners, Camaros, Mustangs, Chevelles, GTOs, Cudas, etc. When I first
saw the new category posted, I thought the Dragtimes.com section for
'Muscle Cars' would have featured the more classic cars with their
original 1/4 mile street stock times, like a 396 Chevelle Super Sport
running a 13.8, a Boss 302 Mustang doing a 14.2, a Road Runner with a
Hemi 6 pack doing a 13.7, etc. Instead, Brooks decided to feature simply
outrageous machines, all of which are stuffed with a big, built-up V8 of
some kind. The little Capri at this page for example, which stock had
either a 4 banger or an under-whelming V6 (back then, hot 300 hp V6's
weren't roaming the streets yet), seems out of place when the term
'muscle car' is used. Yes, this Capri is badass, but it's not
representable of the classic term 'muscle car'. The same can be said for
the little '81 Dodge Charger displayed, because stock, it wasn't even
close to the original 440 Dodge Charger of the 60's who's name it stole.
This weird, unpopular car that the Chrysler group marketed was a gutless
4 cylinder econocar (yes, there was a turboed version but it was still
an under-performer) that many were disgusted with when Chrysler put it
on the market and soiled the mighty 'Charger' name by affixing that
proud name on such a dismal car. Anyway, my point is, that these two
former economy cars now fitted with formidable racing V8s do indeed,
belong in this group of scream'n machines, but they do not in anyway,
represent what the classic term 'muscle car' usually stands for.
Counterpoint....the muscle car came into being, when Detroit took their
small to mid-sized sedans and stuffed monster V8s into them. The
original GTO was merely a Pontiac Tempest that usually came with an
in-line six (maybe 100 hp?), that was perversely stuffed with a muscular
V8...instant muscle car! Ford took their Falcon that usually came with
an in-line six, stuffed in a big 390 V8 and made the
'Thunderbolt'...instant muscle car! Mustangs that originally came with
small but spirited V8s like the 289, eventually had fire-breathing 390s
& 429s....muscle cars. The original Baracuda had a wimpy six as its base
engine...this car was slowly morphed into the Cuda that could be had
with a 426 Hemi....muscle car. My point here, is that the entire spirit
behind the term 'muscle car' is a smaller car stuffed with a BIG power
engine giving it ridiculous, but oh-so-fun power. Sooooo..... I guess
the little Capri stuffed with its 514 monster V8, and the weirdo '81
Charger stuffed with its 440 V8 'do' qualify. In this vein, so does a
little 'ol Datsun econobox stuffed with a hotrodded electric motor with
700+ ft. lbs. of torque and 240+ hp, or a Mazda with twin motors that
runs 11 seconds!
Food for thought, I guess.....
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
How about a battery-to-battery charger? Have a small pack of whatever
voltage, and a DC/DC converter to step this up to charge your main pack.
This converter can be over 90% efficient if you pick it carefully (for
example, Vicor modules).
This converter doesn't have to be isolated; non-isolated converters are
a bit more efficient. Do you have one of Rudman's PFC chargers? It could
be used as your DC/DC while driving, and rewired as your charger while
parked.
If your DC/DC is isolated, its output doesn't need to be the full pack
voltage; just the difference between the main pack and booster pack. The
main pack is charged by the booster pack plus the DC/DC's output in
series.
How many of the Thundersky LiIons do you still have that are in good
working order? Mine are useless for high currents, but do quite well at
low currents. If your commute takes over an hour, the LiIons can be
slowly discharging to charge the nicad pack.
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> With a switchmode supply connected to my traction pack, like a DC/DC
> converter or the little wall-wart that Roger Stockton suggested to
> power my 56V coils, if the output side is disconnected, is the input
> side still consuming power?
Yes. The standby power (input power with no load on the output) can vary
quite a bit, depending on the design. Until recently, designers
basically ignored the standby power consumption; thus 90% of the gadgets
in your home draw noticeable power even when "off". The no-load input
current is usually between 1% and 10% of the full-load current.
> I guess my base questions is: When you want to turn off the power
> supply (for example, when the car is parked and you just want to
> power things from the 12V battery), should you put the disconnect
> switch on the input side or the output side?
For minimum power usage, you'd turn off the input to the DC/DC. But
there's a complication; most switchers aren't built to have their input
power turned on and off; they expect you to power them all the time.
They draw a tremendous surge of current when the input power is first
applied, to charge their filter capacitors and/or for the magnetization
current of their power transformers. This "inrush" current surge is hard
on the parts, both in the DC/DC and in whatever switches it on.
They sometimes put an inrush limiter in the power supply, but it is as
cheap as they can get away with, and just barely works. It's common to
see 10-30 amp inrush surges for a supply that only draws 1 amp at full
load. If you switch the input on/off frequently, inrush limiter failures
are very common.
Better DC/DCs will use a more robust method to precharge and limit
inrush, like EV controllers do. Perhaps the simplest method is to wire
the DC/DC across the controller input, and use the same precharge
circuit for both.
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <>>
I'm not sure this is good news. It puts electric vehicles in a different
category than ICEs, but the intent was to show how EVs are just as capable
as ICEs...
As always, Ralph brings up a good point...hmmmm.
Well if there in a different category it would easy to see them all at the
same time , and its the 1/4 mile times that say it all . I was thinking of
putting mine in but a 17.25 1/4 don't seem that impresive , . Don't want
people to think electrices are slow :-) .
Steve Clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm in the market for a vacuum pump .... will check it out in that
the wrecking yard has not produced anything...
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Folks, an intensive weekend of Babycare 101 may have resulted in
an E-piphany.
> While we were admiring a friend's fine collection of lactation
accessories, I was handed an interesting device. It's a
lightweight, impact-resistant, extremely quiet, adjustable speed,
piston-action, 12 volt vacuum pump that sells for about the same
price as the GM pump did, and is commonly available as a used item
on Ebay for much less. Yes, my friends, I propose to retask a
breast pump for EV power braking applications! The Karmann
Eclectric won't have power brakes, so I don't want to $pend a lot of
effort on this one yet, but thought I'd toss the idea out. Has
anyone worked from this angle yet?
> Technical specs on the pumps are hard to find, but here's one from
a similar product by Medela, a leading mfr.. It's a 12V suction
pump for home medical use that makes "up to 550 mm Hg vacuum and 27
Ipm flow".
>
> Cheers,
> Jay Donnaway
> www.karmanneclectric.blogspot.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Technical specs on the pumps are hard to find, but here's one from
a similar product by Medela, a leading mfr.. It's a 12V suction
pump for home medical use that makes "up to 550 mm Hg vacuum and 27
Ipm flow".
Seriously, I think this will not work. Breast pumps are usually
diaphragm models, and tend to take a while to build up vacuum. The real
problem however will be duty cycle and bypassing the suction release valves.
It's never going to hold up. And try explaining this to the judge when
you rear-end someone :-)
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
At 05:43 AM 1/29/2006, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
I have a fairly low cost, possible, solution. Use the extra batteries to
power and inverter and run the charger off the inverter while you're at
work. Inverters are cheap these days.
36V inverters?
Sure. Tripp-Lite makes a 2400 watt 36 volt inverter. With a charger as
well. A lot of Elec-trak people seem to like it.
Could also do a 36 volt rotary inverter, but might be complicated. How
much time do you have on the ferry to charge?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is this without a flywheel/pressure plate ?
I am working on a geo metro conversion ....
My thought is that is is better to use a controller and a clutchless
system rather than a contactor/clutch system.(Less wear on bearings,
clutches,transmission)
Use 2nd and 4th gear for most driving
If using a clutch/ pressure plate, doesn't this put stress on the
motor bearings everytime the clutch(pressure plate) is used ? Were
the electric motors designed with thrust bearings ?
Someone suggested attaching the complete clutch disc to a disc that
is then attached to the motor shaft. Is this a viable option ??
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
>
> >>
> >>> jerryd says: Use 2 box sections to mount the motor and a
> >>> make a coupler with the clutch plate center brings this
> >>to about $60.
> >>
> >>Could you give more details on this?
> >>
> Jerry is talking about the spacers that are needed to get the
motor the
> right distance for the tranny.
> I've made a video of how to do this , along with all the other
stuff one
> needs to do to build an EV . The only thing that can't easyliy be
done is
> the hub . I would put making your own coupler/ adaptor plate on
the same
> level as making your own charger , . Can be done , takes more
time , doesn't
> look near as good .
>
> >>
> >>How do you make a coupler with a clutch plate center for
> >>$60? Any writeups on this?
>
> Sounds hi to me :-) but then I know how Jerry likes to spend
money :-)
> O ya $12 of that going to buy my video but you probable could
borrow that .
> For $20 I could put your clutch spline on the end of a 1 1/8
coupler .
>
> >>
> > For the motor get most any coupler half of the right
> > type, shaft size,
>
> The one that I just had let go was made for a taper lock pully
made of that
> powered steal , not a lot of meat was left after drilling and
tapping for
> the fly wheel .
> This took the power of a 1k , and torque of an 11" but the 2k over
powered
> it . It had lived for years with a 400 amp crutis. The one that I
made the
> morning of the drag race at bbb has held up fine and was probable
the
> easyest one I've done . .
>
>
> or whole one and retain the piece that
> > fits the transmission pilot shaft, usually the clutch
> > spline. Now cut the spline, ect, from the rest of the plate,
> > ect and weld,
>
> You'll need to turn the 1 1/8 coupler and bore out the one end so
that the
> clutch spline that you pulled out of the clutch fits inside .
There will be
> some part on the spline that is round , this is what you use to
center it to
> the coupler . I bore the end out so that this just fits inside , I
then bolt
> the two together with a 5/8 long bolt that goes through the
coupler and
> clutch spline this pulls the spline up tight agents the hub.
> can be seen on www.grassrootsev.com in the project section .
>
> spline dose not come up on my spell checker and it just dosen't
look right ,
> but then most words don't to me .
>
> Steve clunn
>
>
>
> bolt, ect it to the coupler half at the
> > correct length to mate the motor shaft to the transmission
> > shaft. You could possibly need a bearing on the trans side
> > depending on which unit you are doing..
> > If one needs to machine something in this sometimes
> > you can put it on the motor and run it on 12-24 vdc and use
> > it as a lathe.
> >
> > HTH's,
> > Jerry Dycus
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jmygann writes:
>
> I'm in the market for a vacuum pump .... will check it out in that
> the wrecking yard has not produced anything...
I have one for sale, just like the one shown on:
http://www.evconvert.com/article/electric-vacuum-pump
$45 plus shipping.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd like a motor/controller that will output between 87kW/115hp and
153kW/205hp. What's the max power of a WarP 9/Z1k and WarP 11/Z1k?
Thanks,
Ron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I always read Steve's posts, because he usually has a strong grip on
reality. I also find all of what he accomplishes, pretty amazing. He
makes particular good sense again with this:
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
I was thinking of putting mine in but a 17.25 1/4 don't seem that
impresive , . Don't want people to think electrices are slow :-) .
Steve Clunn
Agreed, and thanks for realizing this. I'm thrilled to have quick and
powerful electrics being recognized at the DragTimes.com website.
Anything in the 14's and under deserves to be there. Anything slower,
will only serve to make folks currently getting blown away by these
machines, start to yawn. It's important to submit only the more
exciting timeslips of top performing EVs, and to refrain from diluting
things with slower EV time slips.
This isn't meant to discourage other EVers from getting their EVs on the
strip...you have to start somewhere. Get out there, race your EVs,
improve them, come up with new ideas, get those ETs lower and lower, and
when you're in the fast crowd of the 14 second and under boys, then
submit your time slips for all to see and be impressed by.
Thanks again, Steve, for these wise words.
See Ya.......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I want Rich Brown to list his mid 14-second "Daulin' 7"
Mazda RX7, Otmar to list his high 13-second "California
Poppy" Porsche 914, Wayland to race and then list the "Blue
Meanie" Datsun 1200 which would probably achieve low 14s,
the Woodburys to list the Tango prototype that does sub 12s,
and Rob Salem to list his electric VW Rabbit pickup
"Electrk" with its 14.9 second pass.
That's five more home built hi-pro EVs to be added. High 14s
and below is quite respectable.
A lot of heads will turn after finding that a mid 14-second
EV can be built for about $8-10k, and a high 13-second to
low 12-second EV for about $15-18k(speed heavily dependent
on weight). How many would love such a car as a daily
driver, without having to constantly maintain everything
associated with an internal combustion engine, and without
having to pay the oilman?
A cheap to run daily driver that never needs to go to the
gas station and can kill most cars on the road... Nearly
everyone would want one.
I'm not a fan of the little prom queen contest, but I do
like the exposure those three cars listed have gotten from
it. I'll keep voting so long as they get recognition, as
stereotypes about EVs held by a significant percentage of
the population need to be shattered so that the technology
gains more acceptance.
Who knows, whenever my little Triumph gets finished(not in
the budget EV phase, but in the hi pro EV phase), I might
eventually list that as well.
Reverend Gadget's Spitfire will probably be a screamer as
well. Can't wait for him to test it. Upper 14s, maybe?
That's capable of hunting Porsche Boxters...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
well, the subject just about says it all; the first
drive with the fiero since I got permanent tags on it
was....um, an adventure.
Sat morning, I decided I would take the fiero to run
some errands. I was only going about 2 miles each ways
so I figured it would be a good time to see how she
keeps up with traffic on a variety of roads without
worrying too much about SOC.
She was doing pretty good, keeping up with traffic at
about 40-45 mph. The car definitely has one sticky
brake caliper so it takes a bit more amps than
expected to cruise, but i figured i will get to that
when I can.
anyway, I pull up to the light at the intersection of
two 4 lane roads (two lanes each way). I am in the
left turn lane and waiting for an arrow. Since I am on
a slight uphill, i decide to give first gear a try. I
shift and when the arrow comes up I hit the gas and
the car lurches forward violently. Out of the corner
of my eye I see that the Ammeter is pegged (something
that never happens on my car since I have a wimpy 1231
Curtis with a 400 a limit and a slow ramp rate). I
instinctively take my foot off the gas and the current
drops to zero (thank good for the secondary contactor
wired through the potbox limit switch).
I am in the dead center of the intersection and the
light is turning so I gently try the gas again. Same
violent lurch and then nothing; ammeter drops to 0. I
hop out and with the help of some adreneline, push the
car to the curb. My suspicion of what happened
(controller failure) is reinforced by the smell of
burned semiconductor in the air. I pop the trunk to
make sure everything is ok. Nothing obviously amiss so
I grab my phone to call my wife to ask her to call for
a tow. As I am explaining my situation a guy drives by
in a big black SUV and hollers out the window, "Hey
Man, your car is on Fire".
Sure enough, i see some smoke coming from the engine
bay and am starting to smell burning plastic. I tell
my (slightly nervous) wife that I have to go because
my car is on fire.
I lay down next to the car and quickly recognize the
source of the flames. Two of the corrugated plastic
panels that I recently used to make a belly pan for
the car have caught fire and are dripping molten
plastic to the ground. Another shot of adreneline
helped me rip the panels off the bottom of the car and
put out the small flames. As I am laying under the car
to make sure there is no more fire, I spotted the
source of ignition: the plastic ID panel from the back
of the curtis. The controller must have spit the panel
when it fried but I didn't notice when looking under
the trunk lid because that end of the controller faces
the firewall. The smoldering panel set fire to the
belly pan plastic and thus the extra excitment for my
day.
anyway, to make a long story short. The fire was out,
but the car wasn't going anywhere. I called for a tow.
within a few minutes, the fire dept stopped by with a
50 ft pumper truck (a passer by must have called) but
I assured them I was all set so they helped me push
the car into a nearby lot. When i mentioned the car
was a conversion (sorry for the bad press) they cheif
was interested and impressed. 'Cool car', he said.
'You should see it when it isn't dead'.
AAA came to get me and towed my car home (only 2
miles).
So, what have I learned :
1-Running an old curtis near its voltage limit
probably shortens its life. Maybe it would have
happened anyway, but the voltage probably accelerated
this failure. I used this controller for 3 years at
108 V on my jetta and other than sub par performance
and one moisture problem, i never had any issues. Now
I was running it at 120 V (of Nicds, so it is close to
150 coming off of charge). This is right at the high
limit for the controller.
2- Controllers can/will fail shorted. Thank god for
the secondary contactor. I've always had my EV set up
this way and I am glad I did. Removing your foot from
gas pedal is instinctive and fast; i don't know if I
would have thought to turn off the key in mid
intersection. Looking through the Zilla manual, it
seems Otmar doesn't support this kind of set up
because of precharge complications. Is there a zilla
compatible wiring method that still has the redundent
safety I have come to appreciate ?
3- time to buy a Z1k. This was in the plans anyway but
i was hoping to wait for my tax refund check. Now, I
will upgrade to 240 V nominal (200 cells) and order
the Z1k soon.
oh well. My coworkers will have to wait a couple more
weeks to see the car I have been talking aobut for the
last couple months.
I am off to go disect what is left of the controller.
Perhaps some photos will follow...
~fortunat
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone have the 2nd part? TIA.
>That is neet that you have an original car. Do you
>have part 2 of the 2 manual set? that is where the
>schematic is that I sent you. (part 1 is just a
>standard chiltons type manual). If not ask for an e
>copy from the [EMAIL PROTECTED], someone had it in electronic
>form.
>Jimmy
Matt Milliron [EMAIL PROTECTED]
1981 Jet Electrica, Ford Escort
My daughter named it, "Pikachu".
It's yellow and black, electric and
contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can he drive slower?
-- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How much range could be had if EVERYTHING except
> drive was on it's own
> 36V pack.
>
> Then use a 164 to 36 dc-dc as a charger. Then you
> don't have to change much!
>
> Or make the 30 cells into a 14V setup and use dc-dc,
> just to keep
> voltages manageable for finding dc-dc and lights and
> heaters...
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As I read it the biggest problem with the sparrow is the gear ratio, in this
case belt ratio. They suck a ton of amps at slow speeds. If your speed is
limited is it possible to put a smaller sprocket on the motor or a larger
one on the wheel or maybe both. A higher rpm turning motor would help, would
it not?
Mark Grasser
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: re:Increasing Range
Can he drive slower?
-- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
How much range could be had if EVERYTHING except
drive was on it's own
36V pack.
Then use a 164 to 36 dc-dc as a charger. Then you
don't have to change much!
Or make the 30 cells into a 14V setup and use dc-dc,
just to keep
voltages manageable for finding dc-dc and lights and
heaters...
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Yeah, another one of my favorite EVers writes:
John Westlund:
I want Rich Brown to list his mid 14-second "Daulin' 7"
Mazda RX7, Otmar to list his high 13-second "California
Poppy" Porsche 914, Wayland to race and then list the "Blue
Meanie" Datsun 1200 which would probably achieve low 14s,
the Woodburys to list the Tango prototype that does sub 12s,
and Rob Salem to list his electric VW Rabbit pickup
"Electrk" with its 14.9 second pass.
That's five more home built hi-pro EVs to be added. High 14s
and below is quite respectable.
Agreed, especially in reference to all the non-Wayland EVs listed. Blue
Meanie will hit the track, probably this year, but only after it gets
fresh batteries and a tranny that's as small and light as its stock 4
speed, but that won't get destroyed by the BIG torque its 9 inch ADC now
cranks out under the current flow from Oat's incredible Zilla Z1K
controller. The DCP 1200 Raptor was powerful, but after a few seconds,
its 1200 amps ramped down to I suspect, 800 amps or so...never broke a
tranny under it's rein. The Z1K, though rated 200 amps lower, evidently,
has more continuous power delivery....witness the two 4 speed trannys
it's eaten in the last year!
Blue Meanie is still scheduled for its fresh 204V system, the completion
of its revamped sound system, and the return to running the
period-perfect American racing 4 spoke mags, a signature look for 70's
hot street and racing Datsuns. I'm pretty certain it will turn-in mid to
high 14 second ETs. Lower ETs in the high 13's 'would' be possible, but
only if a posi type rear end was installed, and, wider rims fitted with
fatter, stickier rubber. These last mods are only in the 'maybe'
category, as I really like the current light weight rear axle and thin,
LRR tires that allow this car to travel reasonable miles per charge on a
small lead acid pack....sometimes, compromise is good. Besides, I
already have a really quick 1200.
A lot of heads will turn after finding that a mid 14-second
EV can be built for about $8-10k, and a high 13-second to
low 12-second EV for about $15-18k(speed heavily dependent
on weight). How many would love such a car as a daily
driver, without having to constantly maintain everything
associated with an internal combustion engine, and without
having to pay the oilman?
Well said.
A cheap to run daily driver that never needs to go to the
gas station and can kill most cars on the road... Nearly
everyone would want one.
Again, well said.
See Ya.......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
