EV Digest 5164
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Aircraft Gen. Motor WAS Re: E-Volks Geo Metro Conversion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Heatsink sought for Curtis 1221c
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: roadside EV repair/look out for this
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Heatsink sought for Curtis 1221c
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Vegetable oil as replacement for gasoline heater.
by "Michael A. Radtke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Killacycle nearly in the top 10, oops sorry!
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Vegetable oil as replacement for gasoline heater.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Vegetable oil as replacement for gasoline heater.
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Coupler .. Loose or tight
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Motor mounting: Welding, structural questions
by "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Motor Temperature
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Silicon removal, was: Re: Caution on Mounting Flexible Solar
Panels on Cars
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Caution on Mounting Flexible Solar Panels on Cars
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Andre' Blanchard wrote:
> Rather then a drum, I was thinking two plates. One plate with two
> contacts for each battery, the second plate with four sets of
> contacts each of which would when alined with the contacts on the
> other plate connect the batteries in different series parallel
> combinations.
You should look at some of the antique versions of these setups. They
were highly developed and "the way to do it" for many decades.
There were "passive" contacts in between the "active" contacts.
Resistors connected to these passive contacts so that as you moved from
one position to another, the load current could change gradually. The
sliding contact was large enough to bridge pairs of contacts. For
example, to go from 36v to 72v (view with a fixed-width font):
moving shorting bar
\
36v------------O || O
| resistor || |
---/\/\---O || O
|---to motor
---/\/\---O O
| resistor |
72-------------O O
As shown, the motor is connected directly to 36v. The 36v resistor is
shorted, so it does nothing. As you start moving the switch to the 72v
position:
1. The 36v-to-motor contact opens. Inductive current now flows thru
the 36v resistor. This minimizes arcing on the 36v contact.
2. The shorting bar next shorts the two resistors to the motor. The
motor current increases, heading toward its new 72v value.
3. The 36v resistor contact opens. Inductive current still has a path
thru the 72v resistor, again minimizing arcing.
4. The shorting bar connects the 72v contact to the motor. Now the
motor is operating directly on 72v; the 72v resistor is shorted
and so out of the circuit.
The resistors could be relatively small, as you never operated the motor
for more than a fraction of a second with them in the circuit (just the
time it takes to move the lever from the 36v direct to the 72v direct
position). Since there is always a path for the current, arcing is
minimized. These controllers ran very large electric vehicles for
decades of constant daily use (trolley cars, etc.).
> The flat fiberglass plate is inexpensive and machining would be
> easier then a drum form.
My worry with fiberglass is that it can burn, carbonize and become
conductive, and even fail completely to let the bolts get loose. I'd
prefer ceramic, glass, asbestos, mica, slate, or some other inorganic
material.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Claudio Natoli [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Just wondering about the "shorted high volts to the pot
> control line" failure mode.
>
> How does this occur? Is this a result of plain mis-wiring, or
> a leakage path to frame, or something totally different?
The two cases I'm aware of were simple miswiring accidents when
installing the controller. The KSI terminal is adjacent to, and
identical to, the two pot connections, and it is fairly easy to
mistakenly connect the KSI line to one of the pot connections,
especially if the controller is not mounted right-side up.
Depending which of the two pot terminals the KSI line is misconnected
to, this is either an easy repair (one fried resistor), or a more
difficult one.
When I repaired a friend's 1221 following this mishap, I installed a bit
of red heatshrink on the KSI terminal before installing the end plate to
better distinguish that terminal from the pot terminals in the future.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How many years in a row did I insist in checking all users of the PFC50 at
Woodburn?? Like 3 years in a row.
The only fail was when I was on the track and...somebody else did the deed.
In the heat of battle you really want everything neat simple and takes the
least amount of thinking. If you don't something's gonna get blown up.
>From what I hear Steve got lucky and just opened the $25 Fuse, that I was
supposed to ship him...Opps!
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 5:33 AM
Subject: roadside EV repair/look out for this
> Two important lessons I learned at BBB , and will share in hopes that
others
> won't do what I did. With the last minite repairs I ended up bringing
along
> a pile of plugs so I could set up the charger in one truck to charge the
> other and figured I'd wire up stuff there. After all the events wore over
> I'm hooking up the PFC 50 to take power from the race truck and pump it
into
> the work truck for the 55 mile tow home. I check the polarity , check it
> again. Then something makes me check it a third time , that little voice
in
> the back . Some gut feeling , as 2 times is my usual . As soon as I
plugged
> it in their was a bad sound and no light for the PFC >;( . Some how the
> polarity was wrong , and I checked it 3 times. A few days later when I'm
> empting the bucket of stuff I find the meter and the black com plug is in
> the red Volt hole, Red wire in common. Lucky for me all that happened to
> the charger was a blown fuse, but now checking to see that the test leads
> are in the right holes is first. The other was some fine metal filings
that
> the Albright sw200 magnatic blow outs had picked up when I was doing all
the
> cutting . When I was setting up the race truck and testing it out with a
low
> 12v SLI battery the contactor opened under somewhat of a load and I
believe
> the arc sucked up these metal filings that where on the magnets and put
the
> "slag" on the points of the contactor. The contactor still worked but with
> the welding slag on the contacts they didn't close right and under heavy
> load the hair ball was seeing a Hi contactor resistance and gave an error.
I
> didn't find this till the day before BBB.
> Steve Clunn
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wireing Errors and loose wires, and some had water short the B+ to the Pot
fastons.
Simple stuff, but it takes it's toll.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: RE: Heatsink sought for Curtis 1221c
>
> Hello Rich, Lee,
>
> Rich says:
> > The fails I remember were water ingestion, shorted high volts
> > to the pot control lines and abusive Precharge...aka NONE.
>
> Lee says:
> > Well said! This advice should be well heeded by others using these (or
> > any other) controllers.
>
> Just wondering about the "shorted high volts to the pot control line"
failure mode.
>
> How does this occur? Is this a result of plain mis-wiring, or a leakage
path to frame, or something totally different?
>
> Cheers,
> Claudio
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello John,
How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard the
one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to the one
that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it because of
the engine running.
So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and yes, it
does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp 9 motor
makes more noise than anything else.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> is.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
> This email and any attachments thereto may contain private, confidential,
> and privileged material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution
> of this email (or any attachments
> thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended recipient
> is strictly prohibited.
>
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> immediately and permanently
> delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments
> thereto.
> ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence & Evan,
My ElectraVan has the diesel Espar (Ebersparker?) competitor of the
Webasto heater. I can't speak to it's compatibility with veggie oil,
but I do run mine on biodiesel B100, and it works just fine without any
pre-heating of the fuel.
However, please understand that the diesel versions of these heaters are
smoky and smelly at startup and shutdown. With diesel, that means a
smell like you'd expect and soon learn to hate. The biodiesel does not
smell like french fries as folks have said, but more like smoking,
overheated vegetable oil. Even if only at start up and shut down,
neither of these smells is desirable.
I would suggest that you pioneer converting your gasoline heater to
ethanol. I'll bet that just changing the fuel lines to something more
compatible with alcohol will do the trick and the heater will run well
and without odor.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I apologize for this going to the list. I meant to only send to John. I hit
the button too soon. My apologies for this title being kept alive.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Killacycle nearly in the top 10
Hi John,
I am taking this off list just because of the title although I think the
information that follows is useful. The F.I.A is the only other major
racing organization I know of that keeps world records for EVs. In their
record keeping they list the Vehicle, who made the vehicle, and the
driver. You have made some good points but I think it will still be a few
years away from when and if NEDRA would consider changing the way records
are listed. The way it is now helps others to try to duplicate the
performance of other vehicles by knowing the configurations. The vehicle
itself is more important than who drove it. We don't have off the shelf
Hemi equivalents. Things are still way too new to have many high
performance off the shelf products. The only one so far is the Zilla
controllers and they are even hand built. Racing EVs are still in the
1950s stage of development. We still have a ways to go to have 3 and 4
second ET EVs. Just some of my thoughts on the subject.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Killacycle nearly in the top 10
On Thu, 9 Feb 2006 10:06:39 -0800, "Roderick Wilde"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
In your logic Bill holds absolutely no records as he is not the driver.
Nope, sorry. No more than Austin Coyle, John Force's Crew Chief for
many years holds any of John's records. Austin built the engine(s)
and supervised the construction of the car and ran the team but the
guy who's butt is in the saddle gets the record. Both the constructor
and the owner and the sponsor (if they are different) get to take
credit for their part but they do NOT hold the record. The record
goes to the driver/rider.
I have a very good friend by the name of Gary Johns who was one of the
winningest engine builders in NHRA throughout the 60s and on through
the early 90s. He still has a large engine building operation in
Jacksonville, Fl. He has literally hundreds of NHRA record
certificates on his shop walls. But none of them have his name in the
record-holder slot. He's listed as the "engine builder". The
drivers' names are listed as the record-holders. For many years he
was also the driver so his name is listed twice.
On a more personal level, the bikes that my partner and I constructed
won Daytona in the 100cc class in '72 and in both the 100 and 125cc
classes in '73. I'd never dream of trying to claim the win as mine.
The wins were accomplished by the riders, Ike Smith and Dale Singleton
AKA "The Georgia Pig Farmer" (old timers in the bike racing scene
probably recognize that name, as he won a couple of championships
before dying in an airplane crash.) When I talk about those wins, I
state it just like I did above - That Ike and Dale won those races on
the bikes that we built.
Not that there aren't some egotistical constructors and sponsors who
claim to own the records. But that doesn't change what name is
recorded in the official record book.
Now y'all can go off in any direction you like with NEDRA but if you
really do want to be "like NHRA" (and every other sanctioning body I
can think of) and be taken seriously by the rest of the racing world
then you'll recognize the driver as the record-holder.
You need to think ahead to some day in the future where EV racing
advances to the point where people are regularly breaking things and
when there is enough sponsorship money that racers can have more than
one vehicle available. If you allege that the record goes with the
vehicle and/or the sponsor and/or constructor, what are you going to
do when the racer breaks his vehicle and pulls the spare out of the
transporter? Are you going to try to track serial numbers or
something? If so, how 'bout when the car is damaged in a wreck to the
point where just about everything but the serial number tag is
replaced. What then? If the "vehicle did it" then when does the
vehicle stop being the vehicle - when the propulsion system is
changed? The frame? The wheels? The faring? The paint? The
sponsors? The rider/driver? This is really silly.
BTW, it isn't "my logic". That's just the way the racing world works
and always has worked since I can remember. That this is as obvious
as the nose on your face is evident and I can't imagine why you're
arguing over it.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo
Emerson
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thomas is MUCH louder. You need to get a GAST. For
the current they pull, they get the vacuum down
faster, too.
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello John,
>
> How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you
> want to try to heard the
> one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC
> dealer and listen to the one
> that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will
> not hear it because of
> the engine running.
>
> So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer.
> Mounted it, and yes, it
> does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound
> of the Warp 9 motor
> makes more noise than anything else.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
> Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone on this list compared the noise level
> generated from
> > different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how
> loud the Thomas pump
> > is.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > John Grigg
> >
> >
>
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
> > This email and any attachments thereto may contain
> private, confidential,
> > and privileged material for the
> > sole use of the intended recipient. Any review,
> copying, or distribution
> > of this email (or any attachments
> > thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or
> the intended recipient
> > is strictly prohibited.
> >
> > If you are not the intended recipient, please
> contact the sender
> > immediately and permanently
> > delete the original and any copies of this email
> and any attachments
> > thereto.
> >
>
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland,
Do you have anymore details on the GMC unit? Price?
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Hello John,
How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard
the one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to
the one that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it
because of the engine running.
So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and
yes, it does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp
9 motor makes more noise than anything else.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> is.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
> This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
confidential,
> and privileged material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or
distribution
> of this email (or any attachments
> thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
recipient
> is strictly prohibited.
>
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> immediately and permanently
> delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments
> thereto.
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> I own an Electravan that has a gasoline heater. I have seen
> conversions for house heaters from natural gas/oil to vegetable
> oil. Has anyone converted any of the gasoline heaters so they
> will work on vegetable oil?
It's possible, but challenging. Oil is *far* harder to light. A tiny
spark plug or glow plug will light gasoline, propane, or natural gas.
But the spark igniter for oil needs over 100 times more energy.
The oil we normally get here in the USA is also incredibly dirty. It
will foul the spark gap, and makes a big mess of the combustion chamber.
I don't know how long your gasoline heater would hold up if you burned
oil in it.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I spoke too soon, the GMC pump is a belt driven unit. I'm looking for
an all electric vacuum pump...
Sorry Roland...
John
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Grigg. John
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Roland,
Do you have anymore details on the GMC unit? Price?
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Hello John,
How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard
the one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to
the one that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it
because of the engine running.
So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and
yes, it does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp
9 motor makes more noise than anything else.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> is.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
> This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
confidential,
> and privileged material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or
distribution
> of this email (or any attachments
> thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
recipient
> is strictly prohibited.
>
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> immediately and permanently delete the original and any copies of this
> email and any attachments thereto.
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My camper van has a propane furnace by Suburban Propane in it, it's a
proper heat exchanger so the combustion air never mixes with the cabin
air. Makes a lot of heat. Physically, it's a bit large though for
fitting in a sedan.
If you could only make one that runs on charcoal briquets... that would
be a laugh.
Pretty tough to start/stop and generally handle safely, though.
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
There are other techniques for burning vegetable oil quite well, but
none of them are very well suited to mobile vehicle use. I think
you'd spend an awful long time trying to get it to work.
If you want cheap heat, get the diesel webasto and run it on red
diesel (road tax free).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John FIX your email so that it does NOT request a reply!
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Grigg. John
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 6:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Roland,
Do you have anymore details on the GMC unit? Price?
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Hello John,
How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard the
one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to the one
that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it because of
the engine running.
So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and yes, it
does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp 9 motor
makes more noise than anything else.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> is.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
> This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
confidential,
> and privileged material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or
distribution
> of this email (or any attachments
> thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
recipient
> is strictly prohibited.
>
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> immediately and permanently
> delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments
> thereto.
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello John,
It's a fan belt driven unit off the engine, which my EV is set up that way.
I used to drive this type of unit off a Honeywell motor generator unit that
ran off the main battery pack, which also ran the A/C and power steering and
provided 13.5 volts DC.
Its is a standard GMC unit for a diesel pickup. Just go to a GMC dealer to
look at the specs. It has to be a vane type, not a diaphragm type. The
diaphragm type is the ones that making a popping noise. I paid about
$136.00 for it back in 2000.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
> Roland,
> Do you have anymore details on the GMC unit? Price?
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Roland Wiench
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:59 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Hello John,
>
> How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard
> the one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to
> the one that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it
> because of the engine running.
>
> So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and
> yes, it does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp
> 9 motor makes more noise than anything else.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
> Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> > different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> > is.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > John Grigg
> >
> >
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ___________________________________
> > This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
> confidential,
> > and privileged material for the
> > sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or
> distribution
> > of this email (or any attachments
> > thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
> recipient
> > is strictly prohibited.
> >
> > If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> > immediately and permanently
> > delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments
> > thereto.
> >
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ___________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry, Fixed...
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
John FIX your email so that it does NOT request a reply!
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Grigg. John
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 6:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Roland,
Do you have anymore details on the GMC unit? Price?
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Hello John,
How about one that you cannot hear at all. If you want to try to heard
the one I have in my EV, go to a friend or to a GMC dealer and listen to
the one that is on a GMC diesel pickup. Of course you will not hear it
because of the engine running.
So I took a chance and bought one from a GMC dealer. Mounted it, and
yes, it does not make any noise that I can hear. The sound of the Warp
9 motor makes more noise than anything else.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
>
> Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
> different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
> is.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> John Grigg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
> This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
confidential,
> and privileged material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or
distribution
> of this email (or any attachments
> thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
recipient
> is strictly prohibited.
>
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> immediately and permanently delete the original and any copies of this
> email and any attachments thereto.
>
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ask the list. People who bought MES pump must have ran something
else before so can five you a feed back.
So far all the customers were happy with MES pump, but they
don't mention comparison with previous version.
About 40 pumps are sold so far and some people who bought
it are on the EVDL list.
Victor
Grigg. John wrote:
Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
is.
Thanks
John Grigg
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This email and any attachments thereto may contain private, confidential, and
privileged material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution of
this email (or any attachments
thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended recipient is
strictly prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately
and permanently
delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments thereto.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do use MES-DEA pump in my car, Ralph Mervin, Gary Graunke and
Paul Wallace (from what I can recall without digging paperwork,
all on the list) also have MES pump installed.
Please ask these people.
Victor
--
'91 ACRX - something different
Grigg. John wrote:
I already have the pump installed in the engine compartment but I will
look into the sound insulating box idea for the rear of the vehicle.
I guess the biggest problem with my Thomas pump there is no exhaust
muffler. Trying to find something that would fit on the pump has been
difficult...
Has anyone used other pumps like the MES. I don't think I would try any
repurposed medical units though... :-)
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Ward
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Grigg. John
Subject: Re: Acoustic noise from Vacuum Pump
Have you thought about putting it in a sound insulated box and
installing it where your gas tank used to be? On my saab the area
under the back seat used to have the fuel tank. It now has the vacuum
resorvoir and will soon have the pump as well. They make a black
insulation material in a roll that is covered with foil for noise
insulation. Maybe try adding some to the box to reduce the noise.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
---- "Grigg. John" wrote:
Has anyone on this list compared the noise level generated from
different vacuum pumps? I'm frustrated with how loud the Thomas pump
is.
Thanks
John Grigg
______________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________
This email and any attachments thereto may contain private,
confidential, and privileged material for the sole use of the intended
recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution of this email (or any
attachments
thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended
recipient is strictly prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
immediately and permanently delete the original and any copies of this
email and any attachments thereto.
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Newbie here
Should the coupler from the motor shaft to the flywheel be tight or
have some movement ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The website for the lincoln precision TIG 185 is www.tig185.com It will
tell you the settings for each type of metal, thickness, and what kind of
weld joint you want to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Motor mounting: Welding, structural questions
Nice truck project and nice welder! 400 lbs, now that's a motor!
Miller and Lincoln have little charts for current, rod thickness, gas
to use, etc. for different kinds of metals and thicknesses of metals.
You should be able to get one at a welding supply or off their web
sites. I have personally found I need to derate from the recommended
current (probably because I'm a slow beginner welder, and not a fast
experienced production welder) and seem to need a higher gas flow
rate (again, probably because I'm a beginner).
I'm not sure an inverter would have this problem as much, but at high
currents many welders have a low duty cycle where you can only use
them a fraction of the time, and then have to let them cool.
I'd be nervous about welding directly to the motor end, if you messed
that up it would be an expensive mistake! Don't forget the heating of
welding can warp a part. Also, if you ever needed to swap motors
you'd have to remake a custom mount.
--- Chris Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The
> alternative mounting idea that keeps coming to mind is to change
> the shape
> of both endcaps, to form large "ears" on the sides. This would give
> me
> four mounting points that I could attach to the frame rails running
> parallel to the sides of the motor. I might even triangulate them
> with
> support rods along the sides of the motor to resist bending
> stresses.
>
> Initially from looking at the pictures (and generally being
> ignorant) I
> had thought that these were made from aluminum plate -- simple
> solution, I
> just cut new plates in the shape that I want, drill/lathe the
> proper holes
> for the bearings and bolts, and then assemble the motor with the
> new end
> plates.
>
> Well, obviously to anyone with any sense, they're not plates;
> they're
> machined castings. So, it looks like I've got a couple options.
> First
> would be to add an additional plate in the shape that I want on top
> of the
> existing one, and get longer bolts to attach them. This would add a
> lot of
> weight, and I'd like to avoid as much of that as I can.
>
> So, my question. Can anyone come up with any reasons I shouldn't
> make
> ears from aluminum plate of the same thickness as the exposed
> aluminum at
> the edges of the motor ends (11/16" thick) and then TIG weld them
> in
> place? Is this a worthwhile plan?
>
> There are 8 bolts per end, and they're thinner than I'd hoped; 3/8"
> at the
> threads. Of course I'd swap them for grade 8, but even so I'm
> thinking it
> might be a good idea to drill and tap for a few more.
>
> I'm not thrilled with the idea of removing the caps from the motor
> to do
> the work, but I'm assuming that this is not something I want to
> attempt
> with them still attached to the motor. Comments?
>
> My welder is a 185A inverter-based unit:
>
> http://www.thermadyne.com/newsNewProductDetail.asp?div=tai&id=220
>
> I know that aluminum welding requires a lot more power than steel;
> is this
> something I should be attempting with a welder of this size? Is
> pure argon
> an acceptable gas to use? Any suggestions on flow rate, filler rod
> alloy/diameter, tungsten composition, size and shaping, etc? (I
> currently
> use 1% lanthanated, 2.4mm.) I have already read quite a bit on the
> topic
> and I plan to study this stuff thoroughly before even beginning to
> practice, but any thoughts from experienced welders here would be
> appreciated.
>
> So far I've had some success at simple DC welding on steel with
> this
> machine, but I haven't tried AC welding yet. I need to get some
> experience
> using it on aluminum of the same thickness before doing it on the
> motor
> caps, but I think I can pick it up given some time and practice on
> test
> material.
>
> Ultimately, I need a solution that will hold a nearly 400lb motor
> to the
> underside of the truck's cabin, withstanding 1100+ ft-lbs of
> torque,
> torsional shock loads, suspension-dampened vertical impacts, and
> longitudinal loads from acceleration and braking. If anyone's
> interested,
> I'll try to produce a drawing of the shape I have in mind. If I'm
> headed
> in the wrong direction, I'd appreciate a better idea!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Newbie again ..
At what temperature is the motor running too hot ?
Are temperature gauges being used ?? Temp. cutoff ?
Where/how are they being mounted ??
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:00 PM 9/02/06 -0500, you wrote:
You need some STRONG solvent to remove silicone however there are rubbing
wheels you can get at the auto paint supply stores used for taking off
skid protection found on the bottom panels on most normal trucks / vans
etc. It's like a rubber eraser effect. It will work wonders on rubber,
plastic and silicone material. Go to any DuPont or auto paint supply store
and tell them what you are doing. Try these wheels I think they will do
the job and a lot safer than solvents. Use any standard medium duty drill.
G'day all
Here in Australia we have a product that you put on with a caulking gun or
spatula, depending on if you got it in a tube or a can, that turns silicon
into a jelly after a few hours. Dunno how it works, but it works well. I
think it is caustic (alkaline), though, so observe the safety precautions.
Called something like "silicone remover", ask at your hardware store by
description.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> there are rubbing
> wheels you can get at the auto paint supply stores used for taking off skid
> protection found on the bottom panels on most normal trucks / vans etc. It's
> like a rubber eraser effect.
Is this it?
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1913&itemType=PRODUCT
--- End Message ---
