EV Digest 5202
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Zivan exorcised, ? about ZA22D power board comm
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Load testing EV components
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Battery charging in only 5 minutes
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) signoff ev
by Dave Gibbons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Using an AC rated fuse in DC.
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Raptor 600 troubleshooting
by "Lorenz Eisner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Dean Kamen's sterling generator, Govenators green website & Robert
Q Riley
by Ron Archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Raptor 600 troubleshooting
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Dean Kamen's sterling generator, Govenators green website & Robert
Q Riley
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Load testing EV components
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Small Bad Dumb Charger (was: RE: Big ...)
by "Jim Lockwood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Dean Kamen's sterling generator, Govenators green website & Robert
Q Riley
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Dean Kamen's sterling generator, Govenators green website & Robert Q
Riley
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Raptor 600 troubleshooting
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Dean Kamen's sterling generator, Govenators green website & Robert Q
Riley
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) This is sad
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Zivan exorcised, ? about ZA22D power board comm
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Load testing EV components
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Small Bad Dumb Charger (was: RE: Big ...)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) e-meter prescaler question
by paul wiley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) New pics up at the Hi-Torque site
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Load testing EV components
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Battery charging in only 5 minutes
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Sydney AEVA Field Day Sunday 26th Feb
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: New pics up at the Hi-Torque site
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Load testing EV components
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) S10 Motor Mount questions
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: C?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: S10 Motor Mount questions
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Discounted Electric Bills for Having EV ?
by "Dr. Andy Mars" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Battery life, was: Battery charging in only 5 minutes
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
32) Re: C?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Feb 2006 at 13:39, Chuck Hursch wrote:
> Is the
> phototransistor going to be transparent, or how do I see the LED
> myself?
Yep, it would block the LED. Just add circuitry to repeat the function.
> What I'd really like to do is find the spec for what's supposed
> to be going over that ribbon cable, but ...
> I get the feeling they don't want you mucking with the innards of
> the charger ...
You're not the first person to take note of that problem. Zivan and its
distributors seem very proprietary about their charger. This is not the case
with many other EV chargers.
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--- Begin Message ---
I use heat coils from a derelict heat pump, modified for my car's lower voltage
by splitting them in the middle and paralleling the halves. I mounted them in
an
old and abused doorless metal mailbox (no kidding) with a fan from a discarded
range hood at the closed end. Works great. Draws about 110 amps at 144
volts. As a side benefit, it takes the chill off my garage in the winter.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Feb 2006 at 19:50, Alan wrote:
> I have looked at developing the 5 minute recharge battery as a big
> breakthrough that would help to make EV's viable.
Breakthrough? Let me try this from a different angle.
An AGM lead acid battery can already be charged to 80% (close enough for
most purposes) about as rapidly as it can be discharged.
Let's look at an AGM lead battery that might be used for a high voltage AC
drive vehicle, 288 volts at 60 amp hours (1 hour rate) (~17 kWh).
To charge from 20% SOC (a reasonable lower limit) to 80% (threshold of
gassing voltage), we need 36 amp hours at perhaps 432 volts (I'm guessing
50% above nominal voltage for fast charging; possibly not accurate and
amenable to correction, but we're speculating here anyway). That's 15.6
kWh to be shoved into the battery in 5 minutes. That would require
supplying 187 kilowatts, or (at 432 volts) 432 amps.
That charging current is eminently reasonable, and well within the capability
of any decent existing AGM battery. Heck, the drag racers run far more
current than that on discharge.
I sure can see the power infrastructure problem, and it's formidable. But I
guess I don't see the >battery< problem that needs to be solved. What am I
missing here?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
signoff ev
---------------------------------
Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
The intention of a fuse is not only to eventually blow and
stop current, but also to protect circuitry from damage by
going first.
I am not sure that goal is served by using an AC fuse in a
DC application. It may, it may not. It is not specified or
tested by the manufacturer.
Chris,
I suggest to look at other suppliers or other types of DC
fuses to protect the precious (rare!) Dolphin controllers.
KLM type fuses are carried (with an ordering delay) by several
suppliers (Galco, E-sonic), but you can also look at PCF type
DC fuses from Ferraz Shawmut:
http://www.circuitprotection.ca/pdf/PCF.pdf
Often on Ebay there are fuses you can use, I'll send you a
private email about that.
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 11:37 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Using an AC rated fuse in DC.
Try it and see. Connect your pack through a contactor to your
candidate fuse. Energize the contactor and see what happens. Odds
are, the fuse will work just fine. There has been great emphasis in
the last decade or so for fuses to interrupt faults in less-than-cycle
intervals. That means the fuse cannot rely on zero crossing of the AC
signal to extinguish the arc. Typically there is a filler surrounding
the fuse element that has arc quenching properties.
If the fuse does "fail", it will probably be a burst cartridge. It
will still probably interrupt the circuit but will be
damaged/destroyed and might damage surrounding stuff with shrapnel. A
shield around the holder (preferably polycarb plastic) will protect
from that.
This is the approach that I took with my 72 volt Citi. I'm using a
400 amp service entrance fuse (can't recall the designation without
going out and looking but it's what is sold for 400 amp service
entrance fused disconnects). I tested it in the manner described
above. Appeared normal. Maybe a little bit more gas expulsion than
on AC but the cartridge remained intact and no external signs of
heating. I used 2-0 welding cables as my jumpers so there was no
dearth of fault current. Not sure how much since it pegged my 2000
amp ammeter but plenty to blow the fuse RIGHT NOW.
(Please don't anyone go out and grab a 400 amp fuse and use it just
because I said it worked for me. Ya gotta test first.)
John
On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 22:10:26 -0500, Christopher Zach
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Ok, I know this is normally bad. However I cannot seem to find a source
>for Bussman KLM-1 type fuses (10k AIR rated DC/AC, 500 volts). The only
>thing sold that I can find is the KTK type fuses (100k AIR RMS, AC, 600
>volts).
>
>300 volt battery, Hawker Genesis. This is to protect the Dolphin.
>
>Is a 100k AC rated fuse going to clear a 1 amp short? If not, anyplace I
>can get KLM type fuses?
>
>Chris
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Newbie question. My Raptor 600 controller has stopped energizing the Curtis contactor on my 120VDC Rabbit. Activation slowed from the designed 1.5 seconds to inop over a three day period. Contactor bench-tests fine, wondering if anyone knows:
1) Where DC Power Systems has gone
2) If there is a test diagnostic procedure for contactor activation on the Raptor 600
I'm a little suspect of the controller wiring and would like to find some documentation (or firsthand experience) of a Raptor wired into a Mike Brown Electro Auto Voltsrabbit kit from the mid 90's.
Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks, Larry
Lorenz Eisner
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
AC and DC sterling generators are offered by WhisperTech
www.whispergen.com/main/products/
Ron
Neon John wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 10:00:32 -0600, "Mike Ellis"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
<snip>
And if they can get the price of that kilowatt stirling generator down to
that $1000 price point, I'm buying one for the cottage!
Yeah, me too. I'd LOVE to have a stirling power plant. My only
question is why hasn't it happened before now? I don't see any
pressing material or knowledge barriers. I know a lot of people would
almost kill for an essentially silent generator.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Alltrax in Wilderville Ore.
They still are doing stuff, But not On Road EV stuff.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lorenz Eisner
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: Raptor 600 troubleshooting
Newbie question. My Raptor 600 controller has stopped energizing the Curtis
contactor on my 120VDC Rabbit. Activation slowed from the designed 1.5 seconds
to inop over a three day period. Contactor bench-tests fine, wondering if
anyone knows:
1) Where DC Power Systems has gone
2) If there is a test diagnostic procedure for contactor activation on the
Raptor 600
I'm a little suspect of the controller wiring and would like to find some
documentation (or firsthand experience) of a Raptor wired into a Mike Brown
Electro Auto Voltsrabbit kit from the mid 90's.
Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks, Larry
Lorenz Eisner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neat! So I'm looking at the DC one, it says "Automotive grade diesel -
consumption 0.75L/h at max output" and "modulated up to 800W". Not sure
what "modulated" refers to, I think that's just referring to the fact
that the output can be throttled. I assume it's still referring to a
continuous output rating.
So that's 0.198 gal/hr @ 800W. So 0.248 gal/kw-hr.
Going to a more conventional measure of specific fuel consumption in
lbs, assuming diesel at 7 lb/gal (it can go up to 7.3 lb/gal), that's
1.29 lb/hp-hr. This is terrible, relatively speaking. A decent
4-stroke (though they vary a lot) can consume 0.4 lb/hp-hr. Even a two
stroke can give 0.65 lb/hp-hr.
Somebody check my math, I do make mistakes on occasion.
Now also note the effectiveness of a Stirling- or any heat engine-
strongly depends on the ability to cool the cold side. The WhisperGen
starts with an endless supply of cool water. Auto applications could be
in a similar or better situation in the winter up north, or in an
exponentially worse situation in the summer with a modestly sized radiator.
Of course, the ability to run on, say, wood could be really fun to
demonstrate.
Danny
Ron Archer wrote:
AC and DC sterling generators are offered by WhisperTech
www.whispergen.com/main/products/
Ron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
36" TIG wire coiled and then put into a large bucket of water. I wind the
wire on a 1" dowel. Able to load test up to 110A at 12V. I am sure a coat
hanger will work as well.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: February 22, 2006 10:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Load testing EV components
I'm wanting to do some higher-current load tests (up to 12V / 50A (600W),
for now), and I'm wondering what people are using for load cells. I think
Mr. Rudman mentioned using either Kanthal or Nicrhome to wind his own load
resistors for testing the PFC series. I have a roll of Nichrome -- where
does one get the ceramic forms to wind the wire on? Anyone have any tips on
load resistor building? Ideally, I'd have separate taps or different sized
resistors to change the loading.
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--- Begin Message ---
I would like to see the circuit if you would....with a microwave or a welder
transformer, bridge rectifier,
maybe a contacter controled by a timer and a relay.
Johnstone supply has a start relay used in refrigeration compressors with
adjustable pick up voltage
that could be set to your voltage then it would open the control circuit to
the contactor. I am wanting
240 vac to about 160 -170 vdc.
thanks
jim lockwood
marshfield mo
85 toyota pick up 144 volt
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another fun new engine, the "fabulous" Moller Skycar -> Freedom Motors
Rotary -> Rotamax engine is apparently finally selling a few prototype
Wankel rotary engines.
http://rotamax.net/
Just to warn you now, while it's a very small engine, I heard they are
currently claiming 0.61 lb/hp-hr which is fairly comparable to a two
stroke for efficiency. I couldn't find any numbers on the site itself.
Freedom Motors had originally claimed 0.45 lb/hp-hr, but that was awhile
ago. So the same questions will arise- while the electric motors and
generator are really cool to us, if it consumes more fuel and produces
more emissions than the vehicle's original configuration, what purpose
did it serve?
Danny
Ron Archer wrote:
AC and DC sterling generators are offered by WhisperTech
www.whispergen.com/main/products/
Ron
Neon John wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 10:00:32 -0600, "Mike Ellis"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
<snip>
And if they can get the price of that kilowatt stirling generator
down to
that $1000 price point, I'm buying one for the cottage!
Yeah, me too. I'd LOVE to have a stirling power plant. My only
question is why hasn't it happened before now? I don't see any
pressing material or knowledge barriers. I know a lot of people would
almost kill for an essentially silent generator.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo
Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:23:36 -0500, Ron Archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>AC and DC sterling generators are offered by WhisperTech
>www.whispergen.com/main/products/
>
>Ron
Ask 'em for a price and see if you can keep your breath. It took mine
away! Last year at least, I could not get a firm delivery date
either. Being a $bil or two short of Bill Gates, I'll have to wait on
a more reasonably priced version. I'm looking for something
competitive with existing RV generators - 3-4kw, $2-3,000.
To me, that's the holy grail of dry RV camping (no shore connections)
- being able to run the AC with no generator noise.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Lorenz Eisner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
1) DC Power is now AllTrax. Peter Senkowski
(707.350.0156) will rebuild or refurbish your
controller for a price. He is friends with the
founder of DCP, and has bought a number of Raptors to
outfit the Sparrow line he bought out.
2) I have a schematic/owner's manual that I can fax
you, but otherwise cannot assist in a troubleshoot
(see "Peter," above).
Contact me offline at 541.472.1115 6-7:30 am or 3:30
or later PST.
peace,
---------------------------------
Newbie question. My Raptor 600 controller has stopped
energizing the Curtis contactor on my 120VDC Rabbit.
Activation slowed from the designed 1.5 seconds to
inop over a three day period. Contactor bench-tests
fine, wondering if anyone knows:
1) Where DC Power Systems has gone
2) If there is a test diagnostic procedure for
contactor activation on the Raptor 600
I'm a little suspect of the controller wiring and
would like to find some documentation (or firsthand
experience) of a Raptor wired into a Mike Brown
Electro Auto Voltsrabbit kit from the mid 90's.
Any help or recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.
Many Thanks, Larry
Lorenz Eisner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 16:19:18 -0600, "Mike Ellis"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Are stirling devices silent? I thought they could be quite noisy ( I think I
>read that in WIRED a number of years ago). Still, on occasion I need more
>power than I can afford solar panels and batteries at the lake.
It depends on the design. A friend has a mid-40s (we think) Stirling
desk fan that is entirely silent. It looks like a conventional desk
fan of the era except that the base is a little larger and there's no
bulge for electric motor. It has a "spirit burner" in the bottom that
burns alcohol or kerosene. Light that sucker, wait a minute, give the
blades a nudge and it's off and running. I commit the sin of covetry
every time I see that thing but so far I've not been able to pry it
out of his hands.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a friend in Houston who just showed me her utility bill. They
billed her $150 for 350kwh.
I did a calc. Even at $2.30/gal, running a Honda EU1000i generator
would have only run $140. In fact, that gasoline would be exempt from
road tax, so the gasoline generator would in fact be significantly
cheaper than grid electricity, even at current gouging level.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>>> I don't know how to sense it without blocking the LED.
>> Phototransistor epoxied to the front of the LED?
Chuck Hursch wrote:
> Are you talking about on the outside of the case? Is the photo-
> transistor going to be transparent, or how do I see the LED
> myself?
A dozen people can see the LED at once; they are all just looking at it
from different directions. So, position your phototransistor off to the
side. It sees just a little of the light from the LED, that which goes
off in that particular direction. But that's enough to sense with a good
phototransistor.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> I'm wanting to do some higher-current load tests (up to 12V / 50A
> (600W), for now), and I'm wondering what people are using for load
> cells.
I bought a bucket of surplus power resistors, mounted them on a big
heatsink, and put them in an old 120vac heater case. There's also a 12v
muffin fan, a Rudman Mk.1 regulator, and a relay. I tweaked the resistor
values in the Rudman regulator so it turns on at 15v, and turns off at
10.5v. Its output controls the relay's coil. The relay's contacts a)
connect the battery to the charger when the regulator is off, and b)
connect the battery to the load resistors when the regulator is on. The
old 5-position switch (off, fan, low, medium, high) that controlled the
heater is rewired to give me 5 different load current settings from
200ma to 25amps.
Pretty cheap to build, and it automatically cycles batteries unattended.
An E-meter or computer can log what's going on.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rush wrote:
>
> Lee,
>
> I would like to have the circuit. I have 30 batteries sitting on my floor
> waiting for my charger.. (hint, hint).
Ouch! Who kicked me?
Ah, but you're right. I was humming right along on your Balancer,
Charger, and DC/DC until last November when my computer's hard drive
died. I have all the files backed up, so that by itself was just an
inconvenienced. But I decided to try what everyone encourages me to do,
and buy an ew computer. I wasted the last couple months trying to get it
working even half as well as my old one. I finally gave up, and put a
new hard drive in the old one. That's what I'm using now.
However, I am trying to migrate ahead at least a little. I was running
Windows 3.1, but put Windows 98 on it now. The main reason is that
Win3.1 can't deal with hard drives bigger than 2 Gbytes, and the
*smallest* I could find is 40 Gbytes.
So, I have about half my files converted, and most of my old programs
either working, or I have newer replacements for them that work almost
as well. Computer "progress" always seems to be backwards progress for
me (the newer it is, the worse it works).
Anyway, keep kicking me on your project! I needed a reminder to get back
to working on it, and stop wasting time on computers!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any reason not to buy the 500 volt prescaler instead of the 100 volt when i
only have a 48 volt pack?
Dad always said that you should plan for the future so i was thinkin....but
then again i thought it might not be as accurate with the 500 volt version.
Thoughts?
thanks paul
---------------------------------
What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey everyone
I've put up some new pics and albums for everyone to have a peek at. I've
added 2 pages to Richard Rau's album detailing the field coil repairs. I
actually ran into another "little" issue when I went to removed them 8^ )
I've got pics of the mod's being done to Rod's Gone Postal front ADC9 motor's
brush ring. I've added a "bad shafts and repairs album that I'm sure will fill
up fast, hehe, although for now there is just a couple there. The shaft I just
got from Marko's new project had an issue or two (he didn't do the damage) so
have a look and see what you all think, and how long it took to figure
something wasn't working right, lmao. I also created a album for the copper
art I've been playing around with for a little OT entertainment, although some
of it was made with old field coil wire, if that counts.
I've put about 10 hours in the last two days getting it up which is longer
than it should take but I'm still learning how to do it and when you factor in
my chicken peck typing skills and well the hours just burn right by 8^ ) In
fact I didn't even need to cry for help to Chris Robison this time or nottin,
LMAO!!! Much love goes out to Chris for all the time he's spent helping me
create the site and teaching me the does and don't.
I'll be posting pics of 2 cracked ADC 9 comms which brings the total to 3
that I've seen so far. One of these was damaged when the owner was setting the
rpm limit at 7000 rpm and it blew a bar while cold and under no load or hard
amps. When I opened it up it had not only a lifted bar but 2 cracks running
from shaft to bar, so this comm was a hand grenade just waiting to kill his
other internal motor parts. The interesting thing was that the bar was not
only lifted but bowed in the middle. I've ordered some Kevlar and resin and
will start offering banded comms. I feel the middle comm area has to be banded
in addition to both ends or the bars will just bow out when exceeded rpms
exist. The ADC comm. will allow this because of the brush bridge separating
the two brush pairs. I wanted to let everyone know that the rpm limit on the
9" motors may be lower than previously thought, and it's a complete shame to
see these beautiful armatures with no signs of heat blowing bars!
. More
to follow as I get the Kevlar in and start playing and then send them out to
the bad motor killing men I know, hehehe.
Anyways I just thought I'd try to shed a little light gleaned from the
darkness of my little dungeon.
Hope you enjoy
http://www.hitorqueelectric.com/
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I did load testing on a 110Ah 12V battery and used two parallel
lenghts of installation wire. I have also heard of using an
extension cord of at least 100 ft.
I strung the wire in my garage along one wall, only a few nails
needed.
I measured the resistance with a 10A lab supply and a DVM probing
the beginning and end of the wire while it carried the 10A.
Resistance is 1 mOhm per 10mV on the meter.
If you want an accurate measurement you need wire with resistance
that is not dependent on temperature, or keep the temperature
constant.
I measured the resistance after heating up the wire with my 12V
battery and calculated it delivered around 75 Amp. Good enough for
my tests to discharge the 110Ah battery at 1h rate (80 Amp).
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:56 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Load testing EV components
36" TIG wire coiled and then put into a large bucket of water. I wind the
wire on a 1" dowel. Able to load test up to 110A at 12V. I am sure a coat
hanger will work as well.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: February 22, 2006 10:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Load testing EV components
I'm wanting to do some higher-current load tests (up to 12V / 50A (600W),
for now), and I'm wondering what people are using for load cells. I think
Mr. Rudman mentioned using either Kanthal or Nicrhome to wind his own load
resistors for testing the PFC series. I have a roll of Nichrome -- where
does one get the ceramic forms to wind the wire on? Anyone have any tips on
load resistor building? Ideally, I'd have separate taps or different sized
resistors to change the loading.
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--- Begin Message ---
On Feb 22, 2006, at 3:43 PM, David Roden (Akron OH USA) wrote:
Let's look at an AGM lead battery that might be used for a high
voltage AC
drive vehicle, 288 volts at 60 amp hours (1 hour rate) (~17 kWh).
To charge from 20% SOC (a reasonable lower limit)
Eeek! I thought that 50% SoC was the lower limit you want to shoot for
in AGMs. Going below that is supposed to permanently damage your AGMs.
I'm designing my EV to be useful at 50% discharge. Did I miss
something? It would be nice to add another 30% to my range.
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
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Hi all,
Sorry about the late notice :-)
The Sydney Chapter of the Australian Electric Vehicle Association has
organised a field day.
344 Annangrove Rd, Rouse Hill NSW 2155
(in the grounds of the Nursery Association)
Sunday 26th Feb 2006
10am - 3pm
There will be various EVs, from road registered cars to kids' scooters.
Come and see some electric cars, and chat with some owners and builders.
Map URL
http://www.street-directory.com.au/sd_new/home.cgi?star=5&x=150.9142&y=-
33.6727&level=5
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Jim... anyone who thought a AdC 9 incher can take 7000 is nuts!!.
The 8 can take 8 K only when cold.
The 9 s I warn folks to stay under 6500.
The factory says no more than 4500. we a little better. But having comm fail
at 7K is a bit dissapointing.
We need built up comms and Carbon tape restrained comms. Or Faster Rev
limiters.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:32 PM
Subject: New pics up at the Hi-Torque site
> Hey everyone
>
> I've put up some new pics and albums for everyone to have a peek at.
I've added 2 pages to Richard Rau's album detailing the field coil repairs.
I actually ran into another "little" issue when I went to removed them 8^ )
I've got pics of the mod's being done to Rod's Gone Postal front ADC9
motor's brush ring. I've added a "bad shafts and repairs album that I'm
sure will fill up fast, hehe, although for now there is just a couple there.
The shaft I just got from Marko's new project had an issue or two (he didn't
do the damage) so have a look and see what you all think, and how long it
took to figure something wasn't working right, lmao. I also created a album
for the copper art I've been playing around with for a little OT
entertainment, although some of it was made with old field coil wire, if
that counts.
>
> I've put about 10 hours in the last two days getting it up which is
longer than it should take but I'm still learning how to do it and when you
factor in my chicken peck typing skills and well the hours just burn right
by 8^ ) In fact I didn't even need to cry for help to Chris Robison this
time or nottin, LMAO!!! Much love goes out to Chris for all the time he's
spent helping me create the site and teaching me the does and don't.
>
> I'll be posting pics of 2 cracked ADC 9 comms which brings the total to
3 that I've seen so far. One of these was damaged when the owner was
setting the rpm limit at 7000 rpm and it blew a bar while cold and under no
load or hard amps. When I opened it up it had not only a lifted bar but 2
cracks running from shaft to bar, so this comm was a hand grenade just
waiting to kill his other internal motor parts. The interesting thing was
that the bar was not only lifted but bowed in the middle. I've ordered some
Kevlar and resin and will start offering banded comms. I feel the middle
comm area has to be banded in addition to both ends or the bars will just
bow out when exceeded rpms exist. The ADC comm. will allow this because of
the brush bridge separating the two brush pairs. I wanted to let everyone
know that the rpm limit on the 9" motors may be lower than previously
thought, and it's a complete shame to see these beautiful armatures with no
signs of heat blowing bars!
> . More
> to follow as I get the Kevlar in and start playing and then send them out
to the bad motor killing men I know, hehehe.
> Anyways I just thought I'd try to shed a little light gleaned from the
darkness of my little dungeon.
> Hope you enjoy
> http://www.hitorqueelectric.com/
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
>
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On Feb 22, 2006, at 10:34 AM, Rich Rudman wrote:
I use 0.171 ohm resistors from CandHsurplus.com for my real high power
Banks. These cost $29 bucks each. Three in parallel make a really nice
200
amp 12 volt load bank.
That link didn't work for me. Google found me this:
<http://www.aaaim.com/CandH/index.htm>
Is that who you mean? They've got a lot of neat stuff.
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
I have some questions about my motor mount on my S-10
1) how far away from the firewall should the bellhousing be?
2) I've had to make a new mount and would like some feedback, at
http://www.ironandwood.org/s10motormount.htm there are some pictures and
descriptions which will help you to understand my dilemma.
How have others that have S10's and 9" ADC's mounted their motors?
The problem is that there is a big cross member that sits about 3/4" below the
motor and I can't use the original mounts, so I have gotten new ones and am
starting to fabricate a new mount. Before I get too far along I'd like some
feed back, so if you could go to the site and look at the pics, I'd appreciate
it.
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
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--- Begin Message ---
Cor van de Water wrote:
Hi Victor,
I insist that you are confused about 'C'.
That's rather the uncertainty Peter expressed.
The capacity C is referenced in many places, actually you already
agreed in another place with my statement and then for the charging
definition you suddenly disagree. Please re-read your own statements
to see the discrepancy.
I Googled "c capacity charge rate" and found may references, for
example the one at:
http://www.greenbatteries.com/batteryterms.html
"C - Used to signify a charge or discharge rate equal to the capacity of a
battery divided by 1 hour."
No, what you read is that capacity expression is accepted in Amp-hours
(or milliamp-hours), not amp minutes or amp days.
Anything divided by 1 (hour) yields the same number. so according
to you for 100Ah battery "C" always mean 100A rate, for
20Ah battery "C" means 20A rate and so on, right? Not quite so; as you,
I see different definitions. For instance consider
http://www.answers.com/topic/battery-electricity
They state "C" as rate at 20 hr discharge time, not 1 hour.
So, by definition a charge rate of 1C will try to charge a battery
in 1 hour if we neglect losses.
Sorry, this statement is meaningless in terms that it doesn't give
you the rate (amps).
If course, 100Ah battery will be charged at 100A rate to complete
in one hour. That doesn't mean its C expressed for that rate
though. You may be able to stuff in 120Ah in this battery if charge
slower, say at 6A, which will take 20 hours then. So the capacity
of this very battery can be declared as 120Ah, and "C" rate
becomes 120A right? All depends on what the manufacturer chose as
the time period *for rating number*, not for actual *your* discharge
or 1 hour rate and resulting capacity at that discharge. So the "C" for
the battery above then is 120, not 100, just because manufacturer chose
to demonstrate capacity over 20 hrs, not over 1 hr. These are two
common accepted numbers (could've been anything in between), but
you never know which is applied unless stated. Thus the confusion.
Victor
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The issue that needs to be paid attention to is that the
crankshaft/transmission shaft is parallel to the pinion shaft
to within 2 to 3 degrees. This is an accepted standard.
Make the motor mounts appropriately to maintain this relationship.
HTH
...
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
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--- Begin Message ---
Greetings, All,
I remember once hearing about some power companies providing a discounted
rate for electric bills for those who have EVs and charge them at home -
does anyone know anything about this?
My power comes from LADWP - (Los Angeles Department of Water and Power) -
[and, I hope to ultimately solar power my house here, if I can figure out
how to get some of the rebate money that is supposedly available - I have
tried with DWP again and again, but they keep claiming they are not taking
applications, for the last two years!!!] -
Looking forward to any assistance anyone can provide -
Much obliged -
Until next INTERNEcTion -
Take care (and spread it around) -
Peace,
Andy
Andy Mars, Ph.D. - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Youth Services from Mars
Educational Consulting, Counseling, and Tutoring Services
Students Taking Action & Responsibility Today
Hands-On Community Service Activities for Children
Camp Exploration
Winter, Spring, & Summer Programs
www.KidsMakeADifference.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> > Let's look at an AGM lead battery that might be used for a high voltage AC
> > drive vehicle, 288 volts at 60 amp hours (1 hour rate) (~17 kWh).
> >
> > To charge from 20% SOC (a reasonable lower limit)
>
> Eeek! I thought that 50% SoC was the lower limit you want to shoot for
> in AGMs. Going below that is supposed to permanently damage your AGMs.
>
> I'm designing my EV to be useful at 50% discharge. Did I miss
> something? It would be nice to add another 30% to my range.
It's less an issue of damage from deeper discharges as it is a decrease in cycle
life (but Hawkers *are* rated to 100% DOD). Shallower discharges prolong pack
lifespan, with 50% being the point where you get the most miles (total # of
cycles x miles per cycle). The battery gurus stop at 20%SOC not to prevent
damage upon *discharge* but to prevent it during *charging*! That last fifth
takes nearly as much finesse as the first fifth (sounds like something from an
AA meeting).
A trip that needs that last drop of electrons won't "kill" the pack immediately
(well, not as badly as letting it sit around any length of time discharged!),
but it's like equating the packs of cigarettes smoked in a lifetime to the time
it cuts off *human* lifespan - you'll still die even if you never smoked.
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--- Begin Message ---
<<< No, what you read is that capacity expression is accepted in Amp-hours
(or milliamp-hours), not amp minutes or amp days.
Anything divided by 1 (hour) yields the same number. so according
to you for 100Ah battery "C" always mean 100A rate, for
20Ah battery "C" means 20A rate and so on, right? Not quite so; as you,
I see different definitions. For instance consider
http://www.answers.com/topic/battery-electricity
They state "C" as rate at 20 hr discharge time, not 1 hour.>>>
The 20hr discharge capacity is what most of us use as "C" for lead-acid.
...but some manufacturers use other rates - Hawker likes C/10 and some NiMH's
use C/3, so the "actual" hour-basis for C may vary occasionally.
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