EV Digest 5218
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: dc converter disconnect
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: First week's impression of my conversion.
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Vacuum Pumps - was Re: Brakes .. Vacuum to manual
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Need Idiot's Guidance to PFC20 & Wet Cell Batteries
by "David McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Revived and free batteries?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Charging outlet - what is common?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Charging outlet - what is common?
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Emeter voltage prescaler - howto
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: dc converter disconnect
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Charging outlet - what is common?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Vacuum pumps
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Tesla Motors
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: dc converter disconnect
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Tim,
For solid state relays, fuses, and all type of electronics, try All
Electronics Corp. and Hosfelt Electronics Inc.
www.allelectronics.com 1-800-826-5432
Hosfelt - 1-800-514-6464
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: dc converter disconnect
> I am putting a new dcdc converter in my EV, but need to add a relay to
> shut it off
> when the key is off since it has high 65mA off drain current.
>
> I am thinking of using a Crydon solid state relay that is rated for
> 100-200VDC
> at 7A, but it is a bit expensive - $50.
>
> Can anyone reccomend a cheaper sealed mechanical relay for this same job?
>
> Also, anyone have a suggestion for an inline fuse or fuse holder?
>
> Thanks...
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff,
If a 12V 3A charger is enough for your AGM aux battery, then
you can look at this charger, I understand it is $43.37
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/products/ch5300/CH5300%20Curve1206S%20090501
.pdf
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:51 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: First week's impression of my conversion.
Well, I have driven to work and errands mostly with my converted 300zx,
about 101 miles so far.
There is so much that still needs to be done, but it has been fun.
but, observations
My EV mileage sucks: I am using mapquest to determine miles since
odometer is broken and I have put the emeter on kWh so I can say that I
am getting 425wh/mile. ack, cough. Although it seems to coast and
coast, that is way high and ther must be something dragging.
Wireing an EV for having the plug in back wasn't very bright. I had
planned to put a cord real thru the old filler location, but, honestly,
how many times do I back into the parking stall? Having it in back means
running wire from front of car to charger in back, then an extension
cord past the front of car bac to plug in front, doh!.
a Link1000 works, but a link 10 is way better for 3 reasons. It has a
way of scaleing so the decimal looks right, it can go to 1000amps with a
1000amp 100mv shunt and display correctly and it has rs232.
Not having an alternator, or a dc-dc and keeping the aux battery charged
is a pain. Plus the aux battery is also an AGM and that means it needs a
bloody regulator or a chair next to the car so I can watch the voltmeter.
5 times I have thought I was chargeing and I wasn't
2 popped breakers.
1 plug in and walk away, but switch is off (duh, leaves handprint on
forehead)
1 plug in without checking current controll knob, Have to manually turn
charger down near end of charge until I upgrade the charger. Gotta
remember to crank it back up!
And today, when a reg got wet and told the charge to go into equalize
mode. let me see .1 amp * 300V is 30watts, i need 3,400 to get home,
that is 113 hours! Unplugged communication and started chargeing at 5.5
amps and went into shop. Realized that that means reg is in eq mode and
charger isn't and ran back to pull the regs fuse, Yes the heat sink was hot!
The wetherman is 1/2 wrong.
I didn't waterproof under the hood and water dripped onto a regulator
and "damaged" it. I didn't want the pack to sit too long before it got a
proper charge and kind of rushed the regulator installation. I need to
ask the list for some ideas on how to achieve waterproof EV. It is
raining today and my drive home had me worrying. I have EXIDE Orbitals
and have been looking thru album but havent found an example of orbitals
under the hood with reg's.
When I plug in an external load, does it do all the bypassing? If
this is the case, I could put them in an enclosure and put the loads
external. I look at the circuit and it doesn't seem like that is
possible, the thermister is under the on-board heatsink looks like it is
still the basis of control.
options are
remote mount all the regs in a drip-proof box and put a fan and a filter
on it
remove batteries and make a box, then fan, and filter. with regs on top
of each battery.
totally seal off engine compartment and have one big fan and filter to
cool motor and regs. Make it like a trunk.
make a top box, a thin box with holes in the bottom for the posts. al
the cables and regs are in this and a fan keeps them from getting too hot.
what am I missing?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe I can help :)
I had a GAST vacuum pump (with reservoir) in my truck and I didn't like it
very much. It was loud, pulled a lot of (12V) amps and it took about 20
seconds from zero to full vacuum. The re-cycle started as soon as I hit
the
brakes.
Two weeks ago, I replaced the Gast with one of Victors pumps (Type 70/6E2)
which is the 'big brother' of the other ones Victor is selling. And no, I
am not getting any percentages from Victor (.. now .. thinking about it
..). The result is amazing. First I happen to notice that the 'old' vacuum
pump connections were smaller. I had to buy new hoses to accomodate the
larger diameter of the new pump connector. Second: It is *much* quieter, I
can almost not hear it running. Third it needs about 1/2 the time to empty
the container and draws less power.
All in all: It makes a big difference. I mounted it at the same location
the Gast used to be without any special vibration protectors.
Michaela
> We need a better vacuum pump. I haven't gotten the opertunity to check
> out the one that victor sells yet but it also looks like a single piston
> pump. A single piston pump is gonna vibrate, period, everthing to make
> a single piston pump quiet is sortof a bandaid. Especially when trying
> for a small motor, they tend to rev quite high. boing boing boing
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, Roger, for the detailed description. Probably a few of us here can
use some help on properly charging.
I am curious about temperature and charging voltage. If it is 40 degrees,
as it is here tonight, are you saying I need to charge at a higher voltage
than if it were 78?
I have a 120V system and a primitive charger. I am approaching full charge
(measured later and temp corrected) when my E Meter reads150V on high charge
and maybe 141 on low charge. If I don't have excessive boiling, am I
overcharging? Amps only go to a max initially of about 12.
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 27 Feb 2006 at 16:00, Roland Wiench wrote:
> Cadmium Sulfate
Just a reminder that you're working with a hazardous material here. Take
appropriate precautions to protect yourself and your work area.
I wonder if doping your battery with cadmium might not create a disposal
problem when they're finally ganz kaputt. If I were contemplating this, I
think I'd first contact a battery recycler to make sure they can cope with
cadmium contaminated lead batteries. Beause of the cadmium and lead, you
can't just landfill them, of course. It wouldn't be much fun storing a
garage full of batteries because you couldn't find a reputable waste
disposal firm to take them off your hands.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What type of charging outlet do you have or is most used
and where to get it best?
I consider an indoor and one outdoor outlet, most likely a 30A
240V type.
Is a dryer type outlet common?
Which type or where to get a waterproof version for outdoor?
How are experiences between this outlet and an AVCON?
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
Hello Jeff,
I also plug my EV in the back, but I have a recepticle on the wall at the
back of the garage, plus one just outside on the wall of the garage and
another one on a power post at the end of the driveway. They are all on the
same 50 amp circuit breaker using three 125/250 50 amp 4 wire recepticles.
If you just have one recepticle in the front, just go down to Home Depot and
purchase the surface mounted wireway made by Wiremold. You remove the power
recepticle up to 50 amp type and install a Wiremold extension box over the
existing outlet box. This allows you to run a Wiremold raceway on the
surface to the back of the parking area or garage. Install a large surface
box for your power recepticle.
If its not a enclose garage, but a cover parking space, then you can install
a cast aluminum extension box over the existing outlet junction box and run
conduit with watertight box connectors to a surface mounted cast aluminum
recepticle box. You can also gets these at Home Depot made by the Bell
Electrical company.
You can have as many 30 to 50 amps power recepticles on the circuit as long
as you have just one circuit breaker size for that recepticle and wire or
just blank off the front recepticle with a blank plate and reused the
recepticle in the back if it's a 30 to 50 amp type.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: First week's impression of my conversion.
> Well, I have driven to work and errands mostly with my converted 300zx,
> about 101 miles so far.
> There is so much that still needs to be done, but it has been fun.
>
> but, observations
> My EV mileage sucks: I am using mapquest to determine miles since
> odometer is broken and I have put the emeter on kWh so I can say that I
> am getting 425wh/mile. ack, cough. Although it seems to coast and
> coast, that is way high and ther must be something dragging.
>
> Wireing an EV for having the plug in back wasn't very bright. I had
> planned to put a cord real thru the old filler location, but, honestly,
> how many times do I back into the parking stall? Having it in back means
> running wire from front of car to charger in back, then an extension
> cord past the front of car bac to plug in front, doh!.
>
> a Link1000 works, but a link 10 is way better for 3 reasons. It has a
> way of scaleing so the decimal looks right, it can go to 1000amps with a
> 1000amp 100mv shunt and display correctly and it has rs232.
>
> Not having an alternator, or a dc-dc and keeping the aux battery charged
> is a pain. Plus the aux battery is also an AGM and that means it needs a
> bloody regulator or a chair next to the car so I can watch the voltmeter.
>
> 5 times I have thought I was chargeing and I wasn't
> 2 popped breakers.
> 1 plug in and walk away, but switch is off (duh, leaves handprint on
> forehead)
> 1 plug in without checking current controll knob, Have to manually turn
> charger down near end of charge until I upgrade the charger. Gotta
> remember to crank it back up!
> And today, when a reg got wet and told the charge to go into equalize
> mode. let me see .1 amp * 300V is 30watts, i need 3,400 to get home,
> that is 113 hours! Unplugged communication and started chargeing at 5.5
> amps and went into shop. Realized that that means reg is in eq mode and
> charger isn't and ran back to pull the regs fuse, Yes the heat sink was
> hot!
>
> The wetherman is 1/2 wrong.
> I didn't waterproof under the hood and water dripped onto a regulator
> and "damaged" it. I didn't want the pack to sit too long before it got a
> proper charge and kind of rushed the regulator installation. I need to
> ask the list for some ideas on how to achieve waterproof EV. It is
> raining today and my drive home had me worrying. I have EXIDE Orbitals
> and have been looking thru album but havent found an example of orbitals
> under the hood with reg's.
> When I plug in an external load, does it do all the bypassing? If
> this is the case, I could put them in an enclosure and put the loads
> external. I look at the circuit and it doesn't seem like that is
> possible, the thermister is under the on-board heatsink looks like it is
> still the basis of control.
>
> options are
>
> remote mount all the regs in a drip-proof box and put a fan and a filter
> on it
>
> remove batteries and make a box, then fan, and filter. with regs on top
> of each battery.
>
> totally seal off engine compartment and have one big fan and filter to
> cool motor and regs. Make it like a trunk.
>
> make a top box, a thin box with holes in the bottom for the posts. al
> the cables and regs are in this and a fan keeps them from getting too hot.
>
> what am I missing?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
To add my two cents here. I think the dryer or oven range type outlets are the
most common type. I have a 14-30 outlet near my breaker panel to charge my car.
There are also the older 10-?0 outlets that are only 3 wire. Here in Phoenix we
still have some public charging infrastructure and the ones that have that
"other conductive" that I can use all have 14-50 outlets (most of which are
marked 40 amps max because they share a circuit with a large paddle charger).
The 14-30 and the 14-50 outlets have the same hot and ground pins, the neutral
is the only different one. Since I don't use the neutral I made things easy by
buying the plug at Home Depot which is either and has both neutral pins in the
box, and just don't use the neutral pin. This way I can use my same cord at
home or at those public charging sites.
I also have my charging cord comming out of the gas tank door and I think
it's kind of cool because you have a longer more obvious cord. I don't find it
to be a big deal, though I will admit a front mounted plug would be more
convenient.
As far as the Avcon it does make a convenient one handed outlet, but for what
it's worth it's expensive. The vehicle inlet alone is about $180! I made my own
Avcon to 14-50 adapter and use it at some other public charging sites. I've
contemplated mounting it in the front of my Saturn, but there's no where really
convenient to do so. I think there is some room I could put it in the front
fender, but I'd have to fashion a door to cover it while not in use.
Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What type of charging outlet do you have or is most used
and where to get it best?
I consider an indoor and one outdoor outlet, most likely a 30A
240V type.
Is a dryer type outlet common?
Which type or where to get a waterproof version for outdoor?
How are experiences between this outlet and an AVCON?
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
Hello Jeff,
I also plug my EV in the back, but I have a recepticle on the wall at the
back of the garage, plus one just outside on the wall of the garage and
another one on a power post at the end of the driveway. They are all on the
same 50 amp circuit breaker using three 125/250 50 amp 4 wire recepticles.
If you just have one recepticle in the front, just go down to Home Depot and
purchase the surface mounted wireway made by Wiremold. You remove the power
recepticle up to 50 amp type and install a Wiremold extension box over the
existing outlet box. This allows you to run a Wiremold raceway on the
surface to the back of the parking area or garage. Install a large surface
box for your power recepticle.
If its not a enclose garage, but a cover parking space, then you can install
a cast aluminum extension box over the existing outlet junction box and run
conduit with watertight box connectors to a surface mounted cast aluminum
recepticle box. You can also gets these at Home Depot made by the Bell
Electrical company.
You can have as many 30 to 50 amps power recepticles on the circuit as long
as you have just one circuit breaker size for that recepticle and wire or
just blank off the front recepticle with a blank plate and reused the
recepticle in the back if it's a 30 to 50 amp type.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab"
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: First week's impression of my conversion.
> Well, I have driven to work and errands mostly with my converted 300zx,
> about 101 miles so far.
> There is so much that still needs to be done, but it has been fun.
>
> but, observations
> My EV mileage sucks: I am using mapquest to determine miles since
> odometer is broken and I have put the emeter on kWh so I can say that I
> am getting 425wh/mile. ack, cough. Although it seems to coast and
> coast, that is way high and ther must be something dragging.
>
> Wireing an EV for having the plug in back wasn't very bright. I had
> planned to put a cord real thru the old filler location, but, honestly,
> how many times do I back into the parking stall? Having it in back means
> running wire from front of car to charger in back, then an extension
> cord past the front of car bac to plug in front, doh!.
>
> a Link1000 works, but a link 10 is way better for 3 reasons. It has a
> way of scaleing so the decimal looks right, it can go to 1000amps with a
> 1000amp 100mv shunt and display correctly and it has rs232.
>
> Not having an alternator, or a dc-dc and keeping the aux battery charged
> is a pain. Plus the aux battery is also an AGM and that means it needs a
> bloody regulator or a chair next to the car so I can watch the voltmeter.
>
> 5 times I have thought I was chargeing and I wasn't
> 2 popped breakers.
> 1 plug in and walk away, but switch is off (duh, leaves handprint on
> forehead)
> 1 plug in without checking current controll knob, Have to manually turn
> charger down near end of charge until I upgrade the charger. Gotta
> remember to crank it back up!
> And today, when a reg got wet and told the charge to go into equalize
> mode. let me see .1 amp * 300V is 30watts, i need 3,400 to get home,
> that is 113 hours! Unplugged communication and started chargeing at 5.5
> amps and went into shop. Realized that that means reg is in eq mode and
> charger isn't and ran back to pull the regs fuse, Yes the heat sink was
> hot!
>
> The wetherman is 1/2 wrong.
> I didn't waterproof under the hood and water dripped onto a regulator
> and "damaged" it. I didn't want the pack to sit too long before it got a
> proper charge and kind of rushed the regulator installation. I need to
> ask the list for some ideas on how to achieve waterproof EV. It is
> raining today and my drive home had me worrying. I have EXIDE Orbitals
> and have been looking thru album but havent found an example of orbitals
> under the hood with reg's.
> When I plug in an external load, does it do all the bypassing? If
> this is the case, I could put them in an enclosure and put the loads
> external. I look at the circuit and it doesn't seem like that is
> possible, the thermister is under the on-board heatsink looks like it is
> still the basis of control.
>
> options are
>
> remote mount all the regs in a drip-proof box and put a fan and a filter
> on it
>
> remove batteries and make a box, then fan, and filter. with regs on top
> of each battery.
>
> totally seal off engine compartment and have one big fan and filter to
> cool motor and regs. Make it like a trunk.
>
> make a top box, a thin box with holes in the bottom for the posts. al
> the cables and regs are in this and a fan keeps them from getting too hot.
>
> what am I missing?
>
>
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The precise value for the 500v prescaler is 1057k. Note that a normal 1%
1/4w metal film resistor has a 250v maximum voltage rating, so you
should use two resistors of half the value in series for a 500v
prescaler if it will actually see ove 250v. The 100v prescaler has a
118k series resistor.
Cor van de Water wrote:
> Correct, a zener diode is a good addition to avoid higher voltages
> into the Emeter than it can sustain. Maximum should be a 50V zener
> diode. This will not blow the fuse, but increase the current through
> the HV resistor, to drop more voltage if the input goes over 500V
> (which it better not does, or the HV resistor may get out of its
> own spec, when you use a 500V resistor the input MUST not go over
> 550V as you are dropping 500V over the HV resistor and 50V over the
> zener in parallel with the potmeter)
The Cruising Equipment / Heart / Xantrex prescaler has a 50v zener not
to protect the E-meter, but to protect the installer from shocks while
connecting the wires to the E-meter.
A plain old neon lamp (without the resistor; the prescaler resistor
takes its place) works better than the zener. Zeners still draw current
even below their zener breakdown voltage; this causes a slight error.
Neon lamps are a totally open circuit until you reach their breakdown
threshold of about 50-60v. The E-meter has enough internal protection to
handle this slight overvoltage.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ANOTHER episode of "This New Car" is now on-line (MP3 recording) at
http://www.wicn.org/programs/thisnewcar/schedule.htm
Podcast/RSS support for "This New Car" is available on the same page.
The episodes are 30 minutes each and almost all meat, very little fat compared
to most talk shows. Listen and see if you agree.
The entire schedule of 13 weeks ...
Available ...
#1 Pros and Cons of Hybrid Vehicles
#2 Pros and Cons of Alternative-Energy Vehicles
#3 Hydrogen-combustion vehicles
#4 Fuel-cell vehicles
#5 Electric & plug-in vehicles
#6 New-technology vehicles
#7 What makes a hybrid a hybrid?
#8 Saving fuel with computers
Coming ...
#9 Detroit: Can the Motor City be hybrid-ized?
#10 "Green" vehicles: What are they and does the average consumer really care?
#11 What can we with the cars we're now driving to become cleaner?
#12 Is government doing enough to back "green" vehicles?
#13 Does everyone need to own a vehicle?
"This New Car", is a special 13-week edition of "The Business Beat", on
WICN/90.5 FM and at WICN.org in Worcester, MA, the National Public Radio
affiliate serving Central New England.
The experts for this lively, informative discussion on hybrid and
alternative-fuel vehicles are
Jim Dunn the NASA Center for Technology Commercialization
Gilles Labelle the Hybrid Center of Massachusetts at Westboro Toyota
Craig Van Batenburg the Automotive Career Development Center
all in Westboro Massachusetts.
"This New Car" is hosted by Steven Jones-D'Agostino of Best Rate Of Climb in
Worcester, MA, and sponsored exclusively by Westboro Toyota.
--
Mike Bianchi
Foveal Systems
973 822-2085 call to arrange Fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
http://www.FovealMounts.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why not use a mos fet and small relay to turn the mos fet on or off. Have
the Mos fet on the negative end , a 10v zener for gate to source to keep
gate voltage form going to hi and a 1 meg resistor form dc to dc input + to
relay ( could even us opto coupler here) from other point of relay to fet
gate. you could even put a cap in parallel with zener to give a slow start
up ( save the caps in your dc to dc converter) .
What are people doing for dc to dc's for over 300v cars . ? I've been
thinking about a pre regulator to use with the iota dcs that run on 130v ,
something to bring the almost 450 volts ( 29 orbitals ) down to 150v . As
this is not going to need but a few amps , I'm thinking of a simple buck
converter , driven by a opto coupler , where when voltage across a large cap
( in parallel with the iota dc dc) is over 150 it turns off .
then just let it free vibrate . I saw the have a 240 v dc to dc but its
twice the price , same power , and that's still not high enough for 29
batteries.
steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: dc converter disconnect
I am putting a new dcdc converter in my EV, but need to add a relay to shut
it off
when the key is off since it has high 65mA off drain current.
I am thinking of using a Crydon solid state relay that is rated for
100-200VDC
at 7A, but it is a bit expensive - $50.
Can anyone reccomend a cheaper sealed mechanical relay for this same job?
Also, anyone have a suggestion for an inline fuse or fuse holder?
Thanks...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use a 240V dryer outlet enclosed in a waterproof case with a snap lid
closure. I plug the vehicle in from the back. One the next project I will
take Jeff's advice and put the plug in at the front.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: February 27, 2006 10:40 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Charging outlet - what is common?
What type of charging outlet do you have or is most used and where to get it
best?
I consider an indoor and one outdoor outlet, most likely a 30A 240V type.
Is a dryer type outlet common?
Which type or where to get a waterproof version for outdoor?
How are experiences between this outlet and an AVCON?
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
Hello Jeff,
I also plug my EV in the back, but I have a recepticle on the wall at the
back of the garage, plus one just outside on the wall of the garage and
another one on a power post at the end of the driveway. They are all on the
same 50 amp circuit breaker using three 125/250 50 amp 4 wire recepticles.
If you just have one recepticle in the front, just go down to Home Depot and
purchase the surface mounted wireway made by Wiremold. You remove the power
recepticle up to 50 amp type and install a Wiremold extension box over the
existing outlet box. This allows you to run a Wiremold raceway on the
surface to the back of the parking area or garage. Install a large surface
box for your power recepticle.
If its not a enclose garage, but a cover parking space, then you can install
a cast aluminum extension box over the existing outlet junction box and run
conduit with watertight box connectors to a surface mounted cast aluminum
recepticle box. You can also gets these at Home Depot made by the Bell
Electrical company.
You can have as many 30 to 50 amps power recepticles on the circuit as long
as you have just one circuit breaker size for that recepticle and wire or
just blank off the front recepticle with a blank plate and reused the
recepticle in the back if it's a 30 to 50 amp type.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: First week's impression of my conversion.
> Well, I have driven to work and errands mostly with my converted 300zx,
> about 101 miles so far.
> There is so much that still needs to be done, but it has been fun.
>
> but, observations
> My EV mileage sucks: I am using mapquest to determine miles since
> odometer is broken and I have put the emeter on kWh so I can say that I
> am getting 425wh/mile. ack, cough. Although it seems to coast and
> coast, that is way high and ther must be something dragging.
>
> Wireing an EV for having the plug in back wasn't very bright. I had
> planned to put a cord real thru the old filler location, but, honestly,
> how many times do I back into the parking stall? Having it in back means
> running wire from front of car to charger in back, then an extension
> cord past the front of car bac to plug in front, doh!.
>
> a Link1000 works, but a link 10 is way better for 3 reasons. It has a
> way of scaleing so the decimal looks right, it can go to 1000amps with a
> 1000amp 100mv shunt and display correctly and it has rs232.
>
> Not having an alternator, or a dc-dc and keeping the aux battery charged
> is a pain. Plus the aux battery is also an AGM and that means it needs a
> bloody regulator or a chair next to the car so I can watch the voltmeter.
>
> 5 times I have thought I was chargeing and I wasn't
> 2 popped breakers.
> 1 plug in and walk away, but switch is off (duh, leaves handprint on
> forehead)
> 1 plug in without checking current controll knob, Have to manually turn
> charger down near end of charge until I upgrade the charger. Gotta
> remember to crank it back up!
> And today, when a reg got wet and told the charge to go into equalize
> mode. let me see .1 amp * 300V is 30watts, i need 3,400 to get home,
> that is 113 hours! Unplugged communication and started chargeing at 5.5
> amps and went into shop. Realized that that means reg is in eq mode and
> charger isn't and ran back to pull the regs fuse, Yes the heat sink was
> hot!
>
> The wetherman is 1/2 wrong.
> I didn't waterproof under the hood and water dripped onto a regulator
> and "damaged" it. I didn't want the pack to sit too long before it got a
> proper charge and kind of rushed the regulator installation. I need to
> ask the list for some ideas on how to achieve waterproof EV. It is
> raining today and my drive home had me worrying. I have EXIDE Orbitals
> and have been looking thru album but havent found an example of orbitals
> under the hood with reg's.
> When I plug in an external load, does it do all the bypassing? If
> this is the case, I could put them in an enclosure and put the loads
> external. I look at the circuit and it doesn't seem like that is
> possible, the thermister is under the on-board heatsink looks like it is
> still the basis of control.
>
> options are
>
> remote mount all the regs in a drip-proof box and put a fan and a filter
> on it
>
> remove batteries and make a box, then fan, and filter. with regs on top
> of each battery.
>
> totally seal off engine compartment and have one big fan and filter to
> cool motor and regs. Make it like a trunk.
>
> make a top box, a thin box with holes in the bottom for the posts. al
> the cables and regs are in this and a fan keeps them from getting too hot.
>
> what am I missing?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I found a wabco unit, but discovered they expect oil from the ICE system
to be avail. I need to look at maybe a tri-lobe like the guys use for
racing, Originally, A modified ford smog pump. You are on the right
track, rotary vane or gear or trilobe all should be a lot qieter than a
single piston.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From the ET List. I checked out the site. Looks like they aren't ready for
primetime yet. They are based in the San Francisco Bay Area. LR>........
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:51:08 -0500
From: Remy Chevalier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tesla Motors
From:
http://www.teslamotors.com
Tesla Motors is a car company making a new class of electric cars -
efficient cars that will look as good as they are fun to drive. As a
manufacturer of electric cars, we are as devoted to energy efficiency as we
are to the sheer thrill of driving. We believe that the benefits of electric
cars are too numerous to ignore, but that performance and styling should not
be sacrificed. Drivers deserve zero emissions, zero gasoline, but in a car
that looks great and drives exceptionally well.
Tesla Motors
1050 Bing Street
San Carlos, CA 94070
650.413.4000 Fax: 650.413.4099
press@ teslamotors.com
White & Lee LLP Series Financing
http://www.whiteandlee.com
805 SW Broadway, Suite 2440
Portland, Oregon 97205-3303
(503) 419-3000 Fax: (503) 419-3001
545 Middlefield Road, Suite 250
Menlo Park, California 94025
(650) 470-4000 Fax: (650) 470-4099
On July 1, 2002, we set out to create a better car for the world. Our vision
was a car that was energy efficient but also good looking and fun to drive.
We brought together a passionate team of engineers and designers from the
technology and auto industries who are now hard at work on our ambitious
goal.
Our cars consume very little energy and do not emit any pollutants. But
unlike so many environmentally friendly cars that have come along before,
our cars are beautifully styled, thoughtfully built, and designed to make
driving fun. But great cars, and the companies that build them, are not made
overnight; and so we are not yet ready to announce specifications or
delivery dates. As soon as we can tell more about what we are doing, we
will.
Martin Eberhard (CEO)
Tesla Motors is the third company that Martin Eberhard has founded. Martin
brings 20 years of senior-level management and development experience to
Tesla Motors as CEO and founder of NuvoMedia and Chief Engineer of Network
Computing Devices.
As CEO of NuvoMedia in 1997, Martin's company created the market for
electronic books with the Rocket eBook and pioneered the distribution of
electronic content securely over the Internet. As CEO of NuvoMedia, Mr.
Eberhard raised $27 million in three rounds between 1997 and 1999. In 2000,
he negotiated the sale of the company to Gemstar/TV Guide International for
$187 million.
Prior to founding NuvoMedia, Martin was Vice President of Electronics at
Belfort Memory International, co-founder and Chief Engineer of Network
Computing Devices, Inc., and developed high-volume terminals for Wyse
Technology Inc.
Martin has a Bachelor's Degree in Computer Engineering and Master's Degree
in Electrical Engineering from the University of Illinois in Champaign,
Illinois.
Tom Colson (VP Manufacturing)
Tom Colson is responsible for all manufacturing logistics, quality
assurance, and vehicle manufacturing-related operations at Tesla Motors.
Prior to joining Tesla, Tom was co-founder and general manager of Vernier
Networks, a wireless networking security software startup. Before Vernier,
Tom was Vice President of Manufacturing and Operations for NuvoMedia, Inc.
where he led the effort to bring the Rocket eBook from prototype into mass
production. Tom started his career at Raychem Corporation, where he held
positions in manufacturing engineering and operations management as part of
a team that commercialized a new materials technology and built a new
business unit whose revenues grew from $300K to $30M in four years.
Tom earned his Masters of Science and Bachelors of Science in Chemical
Engineering from the University of California, Berkeley.
Ron Lloyd (VP Advanced Manufacturing Projects)
Ron Lloyd brings over fifteen years of manufacturing and management
experience to Tesla Motors. Ron retired from an extensive career at Sun
Microsystems in 2001, where he held high-level positions including VP of
Manufacturing, Worldwide Operations and VP of Engineering for the Network
Storage unit. Ron left Sun to learn about clean energy by earning a Master's
Degree in Environmental Engineering at Stanford University. Tesla Motors
offers Ron the opportunity to pursue his passion for clean energy with his
broad manufacturing experience.
Ron earned his BS Engineering at Harvey Mudd College in 1980 and his Masters
in Civil and Environmental Engineering at Stanford in 2003.
Marc Tarpenning (VP Engineering)
Marc has engineering and fiscal responsibilities at Tesla Motors, and is the
acting CFO for the company. As Co-founder and Vice President of Engineering
at NuvoMedia Inc, Marc brings 21 years of engineering management experience
to Tesla Motors. He led the engineering development of the Rocket eBook and
helped bring a revolutionary new product from concept, to design to market.
After the sale of NuvoMedia, he spent 3 years as Vice President of
Engineering at Packet Design, an innovative network technology company
founded by Judy Estrin and Bill Carrico.
Marc has managed and developed software and firmware products for many
companies, including Belfort Memory International, NEC, Seagate, Textron,
and Bechtel.
He has a B.A. in Computer Science from the University of California,
Berkeley.
Malcolm Powell (VP Vehicle Integration)
As VP, Vehicle Integration, Malcolm Powell oversees vehicle manufacture
engineering for Tesla Motors. Malcolm brings 31 years of engineering and
engineering management to the company. Prior to Tesla Motors, Mac was
project manager and the senior project manager for 17 years at Group Lotus,
PLC. Most recently there, he was the project manager responsible for the
technical program to create and bring to manufacture the North American
version of the Lotus Elise. With a direct team of around 50 staff and
involving most areas of the company, the 18 month program was delivered on
schedule and within budget. All program phases from concept design through
to series production were involved.
Prior to working at Lotus, Malcolm was a founder and Managing Director at
RAMAR Engineering Ltd, an automotive engineering consultancy. Before that,
he worked at Ford Motor Company's Special Vehicle Engineering division.
Prior to Ford, Mr. Powell worked as a mechanical engineer at Westland
Helicopters Ltd.
Malcolm has a degree in Mechanical Engineering from University of Sheffield
in England.
Malcolm Smith (VP Vehicle Engineering)
As VP,Vehicle Engineering. Malcolm Smith oversees the motor and electrical
sub-systems and directs a team of engineers at Tesla Motors. Malcolm brings
23 years of engineering management experience to Tesla Motors. For nine
years, he was Vice President of Product Design at the award-winning design
firm, Palo Alto Design Group (later renamed Palo Alto Products
International), where he managed the development of such stellar products as
the Palm Pilot, the Microsoft X-Box, and various computer enclosures from
Dell, HP and others. As a senior executive in the company, Malcolm
participated in growing Palo Alto Design Group and merging with its Taiwan
manufacturing partner, to 1,200 employees. He helped to establish design and
manufacturing locations in Texas, California, Taiwan, and Thailand.
Palo Alto Products International was acquired by Flextronics, and Malcolm
stayed on as Vice President of Product Design and Engineering for four more
years. Reported directly to the president of worldwide design services,
Malcolm was responsible for all product design and engineering in the USA
including fiscal performance. His USA operation at one time had nearly 300
employees in eight locations and ran a $40 million per year budget. He
managed all technical design disciplines: industrial design, mechanical
engineering, hardware, software, SQC, production test development, PCB
design, thermal analysis, prototype assembly technicians, injection mold
tooling and production molding, EMI test facility, etc.
Malcolm holds a degree in mechanical engineering from Oregon State
University as well as a Masters of Engineering, Product Design from Stanford
University .
JB Straubel (CTO)
As Chief Technical Officer at Tesla Motors, JB Straubel oversees the
technical and engineering direction of the vehicle including the battery,
motor, power electronics, and high-level software sub-systems. He has
responsibility for new technology evaluation, technical evaluation and
relationships with key vendors, and systems testing.
Prior to Tesla Motors, Straubel was CTO and co-founder of Volacom Inc., a
company specializing in high-altitude aircraft platforms that was a
fuel-cell powered electric airplane. At Volacom, JB invented and patented a
new hybrid propulsion concept. Before Volacom, JB held several positions as
technical advisor and power electronics engineer at Taproot Ventures and
Pentadyne Power Corp.
JB's interest in electric cars began in his youth and he built his first
electric vehicle in high school. He has EV optimized a 944 Porsche and
bicycle, and pioneered a pusher trailer charging station he designed while
earning his degree at Stanford University.
He received a B.S. in Energy Systems Engineering and a M.S. in Energy
Engineering, emphasis on energy conversion, both from Stanford.
Jessica Switzer (VP, Marketing)
Ms. Switzer oversees all marketing and communications for Tesla Motors.
Prior to Tesla Motors, Jessica ran the San Francisco office of Ruder
Finn/Switzer. Ruder Finn is the second largest independently-owned
communications firm in the world. Clients included Sony, LEGO, Ford and
other global and emerging brands. Before Ruder Finn, Switzer was president
of Switzer Communications, a PR and marketing firm which she founded in
1995. With annual billings of $3 million, and 25 employees, Switzer
Communications helped companies build brand awareness and launch 200+
products throughout its eight year history. Her firm was acquired by Ruder
Finn in early 2003.
Prior to Switzer Communications, Switzer ran corporate communications for
Broderbund Software, a consumer software company, where she served as
company spokeswoman and assisted the company throughout its IPO, and
numerous acquisitions.
She received a Bachelor of Arts in Politics from the University of
California, Santa Cruz.
________________________________________________________________________
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
Vegetable Oil Car.
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe you don't need a relay. The dcdc can be connected on the downstream
side of the main contactor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 1:48 PM
Subject: dc converter disconnect
I am putting a new dcdc converter in my EV, but need to add a relay to shut
it off
when the key is off since it has high 65mA off drain current.
I am thinking of using a Crydon solid state relay that is rated for
100-200VDC
at 7A, but it is a bit expensive - $50.
Can anyone reccomend a cheaper sealed mechanical relay for this same job?
Also, anyone have a suggestion for an inline fuse or fuse holder?
Thanks...
--- End Message ---
