EV Digest 5222
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line (blurb added)
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) 94 solectria force gearbox
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Small Bad Dumb Charger
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Charging outlet - what is common?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: disc brake drag
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: just bought batterys
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Small Bad Dumb Charger
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) How simply can battery voltage monitors be made?
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line (blurb added)
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line (blurb added)
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: V2G, vehicle to grid - fantastic concept
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: V2G, vehicle to grid - fantastic concept
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) EVLN(HyMotion's PHEV kit)-long
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) EVLN(PA hybrid grant funds)
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) EVLN(Ultra motors electric vehicles launch this year)
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Roderick Wilde wrote:
> Thanks Mike for posting this information. I totally agree that it is almost
> all meat and is the kind of meat that should be syndicated somehow to all
> the public radio stations throughout the country. I even learned some new
> things there I did not know about China.
Glad to do it.
All three of these guys are heavily involved in the Tour de Sol (big surprise)
and have detailed, deep knowledge. And producer Steve D'Agostino has created a
tight program that, while clearly having an arch, doesn't sound scripted.
I suggest contacting your local public radio stations and make them aware of
the programs. I'm guessing that the college-based stations would be
particularly interested.
--
Mike Bianchi
Foveal Systems
973 822-2085 call to arrange Fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
http://www.FovealMounts.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 94 solectria force car and the gearbox is shot on it. Does anyone know
where I can get a gearbox or know anyone who has a parts car for the
solectria.thanx mike young near rochester ny phone 3153315336
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton writes:
>
> Look at Al Godfrey's Porsche 914 conversion (now owned by John Littauer)
> in the EV Album:
>
> <http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/050c.jpg>
>
> He used Optimas, and had his regs all mounted remotely in a box in the
> trunk (the box to the left of the grey "high voltage" box in the
> picture; the neat row of yellow/orange-ish rectangles is are the load
> resistors (nice aluminum finned power resistors)). I remember Rich
> looking at the installation and remarking to Al that this was the way it
> should be done (and I think something to the effect that this was the
> only example he knew of (at that time) doing it correctly).
When you remote the regs like this they don't do proper temperature
compensation unless they happen to be the same temerature as the
batteries. In my case, the batteries are in insulated, heated metal
boxes, and each reg is attached to the top of the battery it monitors.
If I were to remote the regs, the regs would think it's about 40-50F
(current nighttime temps) when the batteries were actually at 70F.
The side benefit of mounting the regs in the battery boxes is that they
don't get wet when it rains.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do what my uncle did years ago, and make your own out of tin cans!
Recycling!!!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Small Bad Dumb Charger
> mike golub wrote:
> > So can you just buy the "plates" that exist in the
> > transformer?
> > Who sells them?
>
> I'm sure companies must make them, and sell them to transformer
> manufacturers. But they'd be buying laminations by the ton. I don't know
> of anyone who would sell you a just a few dozen laminations.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is only pictures of the general layout of the EV, but you cannot see
any components that are under enclosure covers. Even if I open the covers,
everything is so tight and in layers, it hard to see anything.
I did a lot of upgrades of the EV of which I did not take a second set of
pictures yet. Most of this was done in 1985 when we did not have digital
camera's that could down load to a computer.
It would have been best to take pictures of the components layout out in a
exploded view before installing in a EV.
I have install a glass cover in the controller enclosure so I can read the
LED data. In the back of the EV where the battery charger compartment is,
the GE indicators was relocated and old battery charger was remove to make
way for a PFC-50 that rises up on air struts. These components I was
talking about is under the PFC-50.
To see the general lay of this EV:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/470.html
This EV is so pack tight with equipment now, that it takes a lot time to
figure out where to put the next item.
To see the details of the components I talk about, either go to a electrical
whole sale parts house and get the digest catalogs that you can get free on
the following components or take the WEB address off them.
Arrow Hart...............50 to 60 amp power plugs
Daniel WoodHead .........20 to 50 amp watertight connectors
Hoffman Enclosures.......chassis plates
Square D ................AC and DC contactors, plug in track relays,
track mounted fuse holders and track mounted
terminal strips and power blocks.
Power Anderson...........DC connectors and Industrial housings and
receptacles and plugs
Bell Company.............Water tight enclosures
Thomas and Bettes........Water tight conduit connectors, cable
connectors, wire terminals.
Carol Wire company.......Cable and chassis wires (design with a
higher voltage and thicker insulation that
is very flexible and more wire strands.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:59 AM
Subject: RE: Charging outlet - what is common?
> Hi Roland,
>
> Thanks for the description,
> you managed to totally confuse me.
> I am a man of vision - a picture is 1000 words.
> Got any photos?
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Roland Wiench
> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 7:25 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Charging outlet - what is common?
>
>
> The type of power receptacle I am using is a 50 amp 4 wire 125/250 volt
> rated. It is a heavy duty Arrow Hart type that has large box set screw
> lugs
>
> for stranded No. 6 awg copper wires that consist of two line wires, a
> neutral and a ground connection.
>
> The matting plug is also a heavy duty Arrow Hart 90 degree 4-wire type
> with
> set screw box lugs.
>
> The power cord is a No 6 gage copper silver coated very fine wires, (its
> not
>
> the 19 stranded type this is common) but has very fine wires like welding
> wire has.
>
> The receptacle and connector at the EV is a water tight inline connector
> where the female connector has a overlapping shell that covers the
> receptacle This is a very heavy duty 50 amp rated Daniel Woodhead
> industrial all nylon type that also has large box set screw for the very
> fine no. 6 awg copper wire.
>
> The wire connections to the connector lugs are straight in. I perform a
> straight out pull test on this cable from the plug. At over 100 ft lbs,
> the
>
> connector will not disconnected from the receptacle, but the small
> stranded
> wires when pull become smaller in diameter and just pull right out of the
> plug with out any damage. I did this about 4 times when I forgot to
> unplug
> the EV. Someday I have to add another power pole to the size 2 3-pole AC
> contactor so it will lockout the 12 volt control circuit to the
> controller.
>
> The receptacle is in close in a large Power Anderson cast aluminum housing
> that is used for the large 200 amp 6 wire 480 vac receptacles A water
> tight
>
> flip cover with gasket is attach to the same door as the existing gasoline
> excise door. Everytime I open up this door the housing cover opens up
> too.
>
> This Power Anderson receptacle enclosure which is like a 4 inch diameter
> aluminum pipe with a flip cover on one end and a bolt on flange at the
> other
>
> end, is design to bolt up to a enclosure. I install a 1/4 thick blank
> plate
>
> at that end with a 1-1/2 hole which the 1-1/2 threaded end of the
> receptacle
>
> is inserted into and the cable nut is than tighten down holding the inline
> receptacle and the cable that goes through the bottom of the sheet metal
> of
> the car.
>
> In this sheet metal entry, a 1-1/2 conduit knock hole was install and a
> water tight 90 degree box connector is install at this point.
>
> A 1-1/2 inch conduit coupling is screw on to the 90 degree box connector
> on
> the other side of the sheet metal. This coupling goes up through the
> bottom
>
> of a fiber glass equipment enclosure to the bottom of a Hoffman Enclosure
> chassis plate. A conduit chase nipple is install securing the coupling to
> the chassis plate.
>
> The wires than go to a chassis mounted Square D 2-pole 250VAC 60 amp
> circuit
>
> breaker. The power circuit from this circuit breaker goes to a Size 2
> 3-pole
>
> AC contactor that is energized every time the plug is inserted into the
> EV.
> The circuit from the contactor goes to the a power terminal block which
> connects to the input power to a PFC-50B charger.
>
> I still have to add a power pole to this AC contactor, connect up the 12
> volt ignition control to it, so If I forgot to unplug the EV it will not
> allow any ignition control power.
>
> I also have to design a ground fault circuit, so that anyone that is
> standing bare footed on the ground and touching any one of the battery
> terminals while the batteries is charging, it will trip a small plug in
> industrial glass low voltage relay, that will shut down the 120 vac coil
> of
> the input power magnetic contactor which will drop off the AC input.
>
> My battery boxes, charger enclosure and equipment enclosure is heavy 1/4
> inch thick epoxy coated fiberglass. The only item that is AC ground is
> the
> battery charger case it self. The entire chassis of the EV is isolated
> from
>
> the AC ground. So when I charge the batteries, I get 0 volts between any
> batteries and the chassis of the vehicle.
>
> Also, there are two large 600 amp 600 volt DC Cableform contactors that
> isolated the batteries and charger voltage from the controller circuits
> and
> accessory DC-DC, heaters and accessory drive motors, which is off when the
> ignition is off.
>
> There is a 100 amp DC contactor that isolates the battery charger from the
> batteries when shut down. I found that if the charger is connected up to
> the batteries and the AC power is off, and you lift up any one battery
> connector, I will get a spark cause by the capacitor circuits in the
> charger, even after 24 hours of used. This could become very dangerous if
> there is some battery fumes.
>
> So, you really have a bomb if you do not install the AC and DC power
> circuits correctly.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:40 PM
> Subject: Charging outlet - what is common?
>
>
> > What type of charging outlet do you have or is most used
> > and where to get it best?
> > I consider an indoor and one outdoor outlet, most likely a 30A
> > 240V type.
> > Is a dryer type outlet common?
> > Which type or where to get a waterproof version for outdoor?
> >
> > How are experiences between this outlet and an AVCON?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Roland Wiench
> > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:34 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
> >
> >
> > Hello Jeff,
> >
> > I also plug my EV in the back, but I have a receptacle on the wall at
> > the
> > back of the garage, plus one just outside on the wall of the garage and
> > another one on a power post at the end of the driveway. They are all on
> > the
> >
> > same 50 amp circuit breaker using three 125/250 50 amp 4 wire
> > receptacles.
> >
> > If you just have one receptacle in the front, just go down to Home Depot
> > and
> >
> > purchase the surface mounted wireway made by Wiremold. You remove the
> > power
> >
> > receptacle up to 50 amp type and install a Wiremold extension box over
> > the
> > existing outlet box. This allows you to run a Wiremold raceway on the
> > surface to the back of the parking area or garage. Install a large
> > surface
> > box for your power receptacle.
> >
> > If its not a enclose garage, but a cover parking space, then you can
> > install
> >
> > a cast aluminum extension box over the existing outlet junction box and
> > run
> > conduit with watertight box connectors to a surface mounted cast
> > aluminum
> > receptacle box. You can also gets these at Home Depot made by the Bell
> > Electrical company.
> >
> > You can have as many 30 to 50 amps power receptacles on the circuit as
> > long
> > as you have just one circuit breaker size for that receptacle and wire
> > or
> > just blank off the front receptacle with a blank plate and reused the
> > receptacle in the back if it's a 30 to 50 amp type.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:50 PM
> > Subject: First week's impression of my conversion.
> >
> >
> > > Well, I have driven to work and errands mostly with my converted
> > > 300zx,
> > > about 101 miles so far.
> > > There is so much that still needs to be done, but it has been fun.
> > >
> > > but, observations
> > > My EV mileage sucks: I am using mapquest to determine miles since
> > > odometer is broken and I have put the emeter on kWh so I can say that
> > > I
> > > am getting 425wh/mile. ack, cough. Although it seems to coast and
> > > coast, that is way high and ther must be something dragging.
> > >
> > > Wireing an EV for having the plug in back wasn't very bright. I had
> > > planned to put a cord real thru the old filler location, but,
> > > honestly,
> > > how many times do I back into the parking stall? Having it in back
> > > means
> > > running wire from front of car to charger in back, then an extension
> > > cord past the front of car bac to plug in front, doh!.
> > >
> > > a Link1000 works, but a link 10 is way better for 3 reasons. It has a
> > > way of scaleing so the decimal looks right, it can go to 1000amps with
> > > a
> > > 1000amp 100mv shunt and display correctly and it has rs232.
> > >
> > > Not having an alternator, or a dc-dc and keeping the aux battery
> > > charged
> > > is a pain. Plus the aux battery is also an AGM and that means it needs
> > > a
> > > bloody regulator or a chair next to the car so I can watch the
> > > voltmeter.
> > >
> > > 5 times I have thought I was chargeing and I wasn't
> > > 2 popped breakers.
> > > 1 plug in and walk away, but switch is off (duh, leaves handprint on
> > > forehead)
> > > 1 plug in without checking current controll knob, Have to manually
> > > turn
> > > charger down near end of charge until I upgrade the charger. Gotta
> > > remember to crank it back up!
> > > And today, when a reg got wet and told the charge to go into equalize
> > > mode. let me see .1 amp * 300V is 30watts, i need 3,400 to get
> > > home,
> > > that is 113 hours! Unplugged communication and started chargeing at
> > > 5.5
> > > amps and went into shop. Realized that that means reg is in eq mode
> > > and
> > > charger isn't and ran back to pull the regs fuse, Yes the heat sink
> > > was
> > > hot!
> > >
> > > The wetherman is 1/2 wrong.
> > > I didn't waterproof under the hood and water dripped onto a regulator
> > > and "damaged" it. I didn't want the pack to sit too long before it got
> > > a
> > > proper charge and kind of rushed the regulator installation. I need to
> > > ask the list for some ideas on how to achieve waterproof EV. It is
> > > raining today and my drive home had me worrying. I have EXIDE
> > > Orbitals
> > > and have been looking thru album but havent found an example of
> > > orbitals
> > > under the hood with reg's.
> > > When I plug in an external load, does it do all the bypassing? If
> > > this is the case, I could put them in an enclosure and put the loads
> > > external. I look at the circuit and it doesn't seem like that is
> > > possible, the thermister is under the on-board heatsink looks like it
> > > is
> > > still the basis of control.
> > >
> > > options are
> > >
> > > remote mount all the regs in a drip-proof box and put a fan and a
> > > filter
> > > on it
> > >
> > > remove batteries and make a box, then fan, and filter. with regs on
> > > top
> > > of each battery.
> > >
> > > totally seal off engine compartment and have one big fan and filter to
> > > cool motor and regs. Make it like a trunk.
> > >
> > > make a top box, a thin box with holes in the bottom for the posts. al
> > > the cables and regs are in this and a fan keeps them from getting too
> > > hot.
> > >
> > > what am I missing?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon G Schaeffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:28 AM
Subject: disc brake drag
> I have a 1982 VW Rabbit conversion with Kelsey-Hayes front disc brakes.
> The drag cuts my range and heats the wheels to the touch. It doesn't
> have the anti-rattle springs that the repair book shows. What do I do?
> Are there spreader springs that can be added to cut the drag?
> Gordon Schaeffer
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Hi Gordon and EVerybody;
I have a 82 Rabbit, too. Got me thinking; Do I have Kelsey-Hayes brakes,
too? I don't think so, but ya never know. Rabbits made in PA come with
them?I don't have a dragging problem, they run cool. HowEVer I HAD to
replace the anti-rattle stuff as the Rattles were the loudest thing on the
car, would drive ya nuts on crappy roads!My guess is that yours are rusty,
and can't/don't release well. Hell! EVerything ELSE gets rusty on a
Rabbit!Especially in the Rust Belt Big East, like CT!
Rattlin' Along
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> Has anyone tried using a graphic equalizer display?
Not that I know of. But it fits in well with an idea I had. Build a
simple RC oscillator whose amplitude is proportional to its supply
voltage (easy; they tend to do this anyway). Use this oscillator to
drive a tiny speaker.
Build a bunch of them, one per battery. Tune each one to a different
frequency. Now the frequency tells you which battery, and the amplitude
tells you its voltage.
Put each one in a little sealed container (like a pill bottle). Drill a
hole in each, just big enough to squeeze in a small plastic hose (like
aquarium tubing). "T" all these hoses together, and run them to the
dash. Put a microphone in the dashboard end, and feed it to your graphic
equalizer.
My graphic equalizer has 10 bands for each of the 2 stereo channels;
thus it can monitor 20 batteries. The fluorescent display has 10 levels
for each of the 20 bands. There is a "level" control for each channel,
so it can be calibrated right from the dash.
Simple, isolated, and easy to build!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Matt,
If the nine batteries are 12 volt type, than you have 108 volt battery pack.
Maximum charge of about 15 volts each or 135 volts. If you are discharge
below 120 volts, you could just use a full wave bridge right off the 120
volt commercial power to at least charge to 120 volts.
My old battery charger for 180 volts of battery took directly off the 250
volt AC commercial power, the transformer is on the pole instead of another
transformer in the charger.
I had the power company jack up the voltage from 120/240 to 125/250 at no
load to do this. The volt drop would be to about 122/244 at times.
In the full wave bridge, you could replace two of the diodes with scr's so
you can bring up the current slowly. I find with only a 12 volt different
between 108 to 120 volts may not be too much of a surge.
You will be at about 80 percent charge. About once a week I than will go to
100 percent. You could do that with your 6 amp charger after you take it to
about 80 percent.
About every six months I balance charge each battery separately which are 6
volt type with a smart charger set at 6 volts at 40 amps that have a digital
read out. After 4 years, my batteries have only 0.02 volts maximum
difference.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Milliron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:39 PM
Subject: just bought batteries
>
> I just bought my first set of batteries. Nine, el-cheapos, flooded,
> deep cycle. This is Texas, so if I murder them, I can get off the
> hook with, "They needed killin!" As soon as the controller comes back
> from the shop, they go in the car. They are in the garage lined up.
> I topped em off with h20. Now they charge on my little 6 amp SCR
> charger one at a time. My wife is making comments about watching the
> grass grow. I plan on charging them once waiting a day and doing it
> again.
>
>
> Matt Milliron [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 1981 Jet Electrica, Ford Escort
> My daughter named it, "Pikachu".
> It's yellow and black, electric and
> contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Strubhar wrote:
> Do what my uncle did years ago, and make your own out of tin cans!
Boy, that would be a lot of work! Also, tin cans are (mostly) steel;
transformers use soft iron. Steel doesn't work as well (higher losses,
takes more pounds of it for the same inductance).
However, one wall wart transformer I took apart had laminations printed
with product labels! Someone made those transformers out of scrap tin
can material!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Build a simple RC oscillator whose amplitude is proportional to its supply
voltage (easy; they tend to do this anyway). Use this oscillator to drive a
tiny speaker. Build a bunch of them, one per battery. Tune each one to a
different frequency. Now the frequency tells you which battery, and the
amplitude tells you its voltage. Put each one in a little sealed container
(like a pill bottle). Drill a hole in each, just big enough to squeeze in a
small plastic hose (like aquarium tubing). "T" all these hoses together, and
run them to the dash. Put a microphone in the dashboard end, and feed it to
your graphic equalizer.
Well that is interesting.
My graphic equalizer has 10 bands for each of the 2 stereo channels; thus it
can monitor 20 batteries. The fluorescent display has 10 levels for each of the
20 bands. There is a "level" control for each channel, so it can be calibrated
right from the dash.
Would it be possible to run a fused wire pair from each battery and connect
them directly to the level control at an appropriate place? Basically I had
thought if I could just find a pre-owned graphic equalizer and then open it up
and remove the display and level controls only, ( or perhaps just the display)
and mount these around the EV dashboard somewhere, that might work.
Mark
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> Has anyone tried using a graphic equalizer display?
Not that I know of. But it fits in well with an idea I had. Build a
simple RC oscillator whose amplitude is proportional to its supply
voltage (easy; they tend to do this anyway). Use this oscillator to
drive a tiny speaker.
Build a bunch of them, one per battery. Tune each one to a different
frequency. Now the frequency tells you which battery, and the amplitude
tells you its voltage.
Put each one in a little sealed container (like a pill bottle). Drill a
hole in each, just big enough to squeeze in a small plastic hose (like
aquarium tubing). "T" all these hoses together, and run them to the
dash. Put a microphone in the dashboard end, and feed it to your graphic
equalizer.
My graphic equalizer has 10 bands for each of the 2 stereo channels;
thus it can monitor 20 batteries. The fluorescent display has 10 levels
for each of the 20 bands. There is a "level" control for each channel,
so it can be calibrated right from the dash.
Simple, isolated, and easy to build!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Could I simply run a fused wire pair from each battery to a LED or small
flashlight bulb? One idea was:
1. Just have a row of LEDs or small flashlight-type bulbs in the driver's
field of view around the dashboard.
2. Run a fused wire pair from each battery to the light bulbs, so one bulb
per battery (or maybe per 2 batteries).
3. Light bulb comes on whenever battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts,
otherwise light bulb is off. Or bulb on until battery voltages drop too low.
What is the simplest circuit that would work? What hardware and electronic
components would be needed?
Mark
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Graphic equalizer for battery monitoring...I love it!
I just recycled one of these...doh!
Lee Hart suggested:
> My graphic equalizer has 10 bands for each of the 2 stereo channels;
> thus it can monitor 20 batteries. The fluorescent display has
> 10 levels
> for each of the 20 bands. There is a "level" control for each channel,
> so it can be calibrated right from the dash.
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On 3/1/06, M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> All three of these guys are heavily involved in the Tour de Sol (big
> surprise)
> and have detailed, deep knowledge.
I mean no offense to anyone involved, but do you really think that Gilles
has detailed, in-depth knowledge? He doesn't seem to know what he's talking
about most of the time. The other panelists are always correcting him. And
all he really seems to say on every show is (paraphrasing), "[Weekly topic,
Hybrid tech for eg.] is like the English language, it's not a very good
language but everybody uses it." The simile he's trying to make escapes me.
He reports rumor and speculation as fact. For example he said the Gulf
stream was going to shut down and Europe and "we" are in for a very cold
winter (concensus is that this will not happen). He said that Toyota was
suing Ford for using it's tech in the Escape (their not, they shared the
patents).
His plus is that he really, really pushes the pure electric plug in.
Am I offbase?
-Mike
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I just listened to the latest one and they other guys are starting to cut
Gilles off when he talks now. At right at the very end of the episode
someone audibly sighs after he interjects something.
-Mike
On 3/1/06, Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On 3/1/06, M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > All three of these guys are heavily involved in the Tour de Sol (big
> > surprise)
> > and have detailed, deep knowledge.
>
>
> I mean no offense to anyone involved, but do you really think that Gilles
> has detailed, in-depth knowledge? He doesn't seem to know what he's talking
> about most of the time. The other panelists are always correcting him. And
> all he really seems to say on every show is (paraphrasing), "[Weekly topic,
> Hybrid tech for eg.] is like the English language, it's not a very good
> language but everybody uses it." The simile he's trying to make escapes me.
>
> He reports rumor and speculation as fact. For example he said the Gulf
> stream was going to shut down and Europe and "we" are in for a very cold
> winter (concensus is that this will not happen). He said that Toyota was
> suing Ford for using it's tech in the Escape (their not, they shared the
> patents).
>
> His plus is that he really, really pushes the pure electric plug in.
>
> Am I offbase?
>
> -Mike
>
>
>
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> http://www.csmonitor.com/2004/0729/p17s02-stct.html
> July, 2004 Christian Science Monitor article.
>
> Regulation Services, not Peak Demand, is the thing EVs
> would profit from supplying under V2G. The premise is
> that production EVs would have electronics and battery
> packs capable of handling V2G duty. Frequency
> regulation of the grid is the high value service V2G
> EVs would supply.
The point is, that it doesn't matter what service V2G provides. If
consumers can make a profit on a small scale, then the power companies can
make a bigger profit doing it on a large scale.
The whole point of power companies is to make money, not give it away to
their customers.
It's a moot point, without production EVs there isn't any possibility of
V2G and we aren't going to see production EVs any time soon (if ever).
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Why not an el-cheapo voltage to freq chip on each battery that drives an
opto isolator -- connect the output to a monostable multivibrator
followed by an average voltage circuit driving a cheapo voltmeter?
Not off-the-shelf, but not terribly difficult, either.
Lee Hart wrote:
Mark Freidberg wrote:
Has anyone tried using a graphic equalizer display?
Not that I know of. But it fits in well with an idea I had. Build a
simple RC oscillator whose amplitude is proportional to its supply
voltage (easy; they tend to do this anyway). Use this oscillator to
drive a tiny speaker.
Build a bunch of them, one per battery. Tune each one to a different
frequency. Now the frequency tells you which battery, and the amplitude
tells you its voltage.
Put each one in a little sealed container (like a pill bottle). Drill a
hole in each, just big enough to squeeze in a small plastic hose (like
aquarium tubing). "T" all these hoses together, and run them to the
dash. Put a microphone in the dashboard end, and feed it to your graphic
equalizer.
My graphic equalizer has 10 bands for each of the 2 stereo channels;
thus it can monitor 20 batteries. The fluorescent display has 10 levels
for each of the 20 bands. There is a "level" control for each channel,
so it can be calibrated right from the dash.
Simple, isolated, and easy to build!
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On Wed, Mar 01, 2006 at 12:32:52PM -0700, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>
<..snip..>
> > Regulation Services, not Peak Demand, is the thing EVs
> > would profit from supplying under V2G.
> The point is, that it doesn't matter what service V2G provides. If
> consumers can make a profit on a small scale, then the power companies can
> make a bigger profit doing it on a large scale.
This is not always true. Sometimes heavily distributed activities work better
then a few huge centralized activities. If this is the case, then it may
very well be more profitable to have your end users supply the service, vs
maintaining it yourself.
Also, note that the power companies were some of the people pushing for
V2G activities.
> The whole point of power companies is to make money, not give it away to
> their customers.
Sure, as I submitted above, perhaps power companies are pursuing this as a
way to make money and not a way to give away money in this case. :)
>
> It's a moot point, without production EVs there isn't any possibility of
> V2G ...
Agreed. At least without a large number of EVs.
> and we aren't going to see production EVs any time soon (if ever).
I guess it depends on what you mean by soon, but you could very well be
right :(
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EVLN(HyMotion's PHEV kit)-long
[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
--- {EVangel}
http://features.engadget.com/2006/02/24/hymotions-phev-battery-lets-you-plug-in-your-hybrid/
HyMotion's PHEV battery lets you plug in your hybrid
Posted Feb 24th 2006 10:47AM by Paul Miller
Filed under: Transportation
However efficient hybrid vehicles become, you're still going to
need a little bit of stop and go action to charge up the battery,
and that means you'll be burning through some of that crazy
expensive gasoline. But HyMotion is here to help with their new
PHEV Plugin Hybrid Electric Vehicle), which adds an extra battery
to your hybrid that can be charged from a regular wall outlet.
Once you run out of juice on this li-ion secondary battery, you
can resume normal operation, but for local travel you might be
able to get by on mostly battery power, leaving that ol' gas pump
nearly a thing of the past. The system, which works with the Ford
Escape and Toyota Prius, is currently $9500, but only available
to Government and fleet owners. HyMotion is hoping to have the
price down to $5000 when the kit becomes available to the public
in 12 months.
===
http://www.gizmag.com/go/5252/
Plug-in Hybrid Technology Kits released
February 24, 2006 Start-up Canadian company Hymotion unveiled a
PHEV (Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle) Technology at the Canadian
International Autoshow in Toronto earlier this week. Logically,
Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicles are more fossil-fuel-efficient
than existing hybrids as they can be recharged by plugging into a
regular household electrical outlet and can hence travel for a
greater percentage of each journey on solely electrical power.
The Hymotion PHEV has an additional battery system that extends
the cars battery storage capacity, while still allowing it to
operate as a normal hybrid car. In effect, if a PHEV is only used
within the limits of its electrical storage capacity, it offers a
pure electric and zero-emission car. According to the Electric
Power Research Institute (EPRI), half the cars in the U.S. are
driven just 25 miles a day or less so a plug-in vehicle with even
a 20-mile range could reduce petroleum fuel consumption by about
60 percent. While conventional hybrids obtain most of their
energy from gasoline, the Hymotion (and any other) PHEV acquires
most its energy from the electric grid during off peak hours.
Initially, the Hymotion PHEV kit will cost US$9500 for a Ford
Escape or Toyota Prius, and will be sold only to Government and
fleet owners but with volume production driving pricing down, a
target price of US$5000 is expected by the time the kit becomes
available to the public 12 months from now. The advantages of
PHEV include better fuel economy, fewer visits to gas station,
lower fuel costs, less pollution and longer range in all-electric
mode - the solution for spiking gas prices, CO2 emissions and
dependence on imported oil. Hymotion currently has systems
available for Toyota Prius, Ford Escape Hybrid and Mercury
Mariner Hybrid with systems under development for Lexus RX400h,
Toyota Highlander Hybrid and Toyota Camry Hybrid.
The Hymotion PHEV system can offer average fule consumption
figures of better than 100 miles per gallon and if used only for
short trips, 500 miles per gallon is possible according to the
company.
The fitting of the Hymotion PHEV system sees no factory parts or
components replaced or removed from the vehicle. The
plug-and-play PHEV system engineered by Hymotion boosts the
electric storage capacity of the vehicle by up to a factor of
seven times, increasing the electric-only range.
And since the whole system, which includes the smart charger,
electronics and battery, is smaller and lighter than the factory
NiMh battery box, one does not require a trunk full of batteries
to achieve such efficiency and performance.
When the PHEV drives on battery power alone, it produces zero
emissions, making it very environmentally friendly. Hymotion PHEV
system can go longer on battery power alone, and combusting
gasoline inside the engine became optional.
Anthony Wei, Vice-President Business Development explains: "The
secret ingredient to the 100 plus miles per gallon performance is
the Lithium Ion Polymer technology in our PHEV battery. It's
smaller, lighter, and more powerful than the NiMH batteries
currently use in all Hybrid vehicle. This is the future."
Unfortunately, the Lithium Ion Polymer technology is what costs
all the money at present. Initially, the Hymotion PHEV kit will
cost US$9500 for a Ford Escape or Toyota Prius, and will be sold
only to Government and fleet owners but with volume production
driving pricing of the Lithium Ion Polymer batteries down, a
target price of US$5000 is expected by the time the kit becomes
available to the public 12 months from now.
Right now it is only offered to fleets and governments and were
looking for them to help establish the market, said Wei.
Hymotion is a green technology company with headquarters and
research and development lab in Toronto, Canada. The company also
has offices in Boston, USA, and five subcontractor facilities
across North America. "We, as a green technology company, believe
that Plug-in Hybrid is the most favorable ecological solution for
the future in the automotive industry," said Hymotion President
Ricardo Bazzarella.
-
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
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EVLN(PA hybrid grant funds)
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--- {EVangel}
http://www.collegian.psu.edu/archive/2006/02/02-24-06tdc/02-24-06dnews-02.asp
Friday, Feb. 24, 2006 ]
State grant funds hybrids for CATA, student contest
By Caitlin Bauer Collegian Staff Writer
[...]
PTI will also receive $119,277 to participate in Challenge X, a
competition in which teams of students design and build a hybrid
electric vehicle. Teams from 17 universities, including Penn
State, will compete this June at a General Motors facility in
Arizona.
The basic idea is to design and build a hybrid electric vehicle
starting from a stock vehicle, said Dan Haworth, Penn State's
team adviser. This year's vehicle is a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox.
Team leader Matt Shirk (graduate-mechanical engineering) said the
team's goal is to lower emissions using hydrogen as a supplement
and to promote a cleaner burning engine.
"I hope to demonstrate that these technologies are viable,"
Haworth said. "It's about exploring alternatives to
petroleum-based fuels and training the next generation of
engineers to use these new technologies."
Students gain skills for their future careers through competing
in Challenge X, Shirk said.
"Students come away from the competition with a valuable set of
skills," Shirk said.
Don Houser, spokesman for Sen. Corman, R-Centre, said alternative
fuel research is an important area of study. [...]
The Alternative Fuels Incentive Grant (AFIG) program awarded both
grants. AFIG provides financial assistance and information for
research on alternative fuels and advanced vehicle technology
research and development.
"These are competitive grants and Penn State has always been a
leader," Houser said.
-
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
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EVLN(Ultra motors electric vehicles launch this year)
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http://www.newkerala.com/news2.php?action=fullnews&id=14796
Ultra motors display electric vehicles, launch later this year
New Delhi, Feb 22 : Displaying unique electric vehicle solutions,
a privately held English company -- Ultra Motors -- today said it
is partnering with leaders in vehicle industry here to launch
clean, electric vehicles in India.
Having spent three years refining the technology to adapt it for
Indian conditions the company will be launching first products,
electric two-wheeled vehicles later this year in collaboration
with Indian partners, Chief Executive Paul Dyson Ultra Motors
said today.
"Our first motor products are being manufactured in India
currently, for incorporation into the first vehicles... In
addition, we have second-generation products ready to be
commercialized," Dyson said.
Our three-wheeler demonstration vehicle, that runs at 50 km per
hour carrying a load of 500kg for 100km on single charge, shows
that the technology is not only affordable, clean and quiet but
that it is scalable to heavy-duty applications, he said.
British Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State for Science and
Innovation Lord Sainsbury rode vehicles powered by Ultra-motors
here.
Sainsbury has pioneered a major initiative driving the Low Carbon
Vehicle Partnership (a UK Government initiative for clean
transport technologies), a company statement said.
The Company has wholly-owned subsidiaries in India and Russia, it
said.
-
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
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