EV Digest 5286
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Peak Detector
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: '74 MG electric on eBay
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: can batteries be refurbished
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Jim's Warp Motor "cleanup"
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Peak Detector
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: LED Headlights and the DOT, Commentsd.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Peak Detector
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Does anyone know the Amp rating of the various GE EV-1 controllers?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Interstate Batteries
by "Tom Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: DC Motors for Racing
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Congratulations to Matt Graham and Lowell Simmons!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Cor,
This peak detector is for charging a NiMH/Nicad pack for my truck.
Mike
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> "a diode and a capacitor" is the basics of a peak detector.
> But your question sounds like "anyone having an amplifier?"
> It depends on what it needs to do:
>
> What are the driving and loading impedance,
> which freq does it need to respond to,
> what are the attack and decay time contants?
>
> Give me more info on the application and I (or someone else
> on the list) can give you more info on the proper dimensioning.
>
> Historical note: the first application of the peak detector
> that I know of was the famous crystal receiver for AM radio.
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mike Phillips
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:20 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Peak Detector
>
>
> Anyone have a peak detector schematic laying around? I've done web
> searching without any luck.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Here's to the crazy ones.
> The misfits.
> The rebels.
> The troublemakers.
> The round pegs in the square holes.
> The ones who see things differently
> The ones that change the world!!
>
> www.RotorDesign.com
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: '74 MG electric on eBay
> Don't worry about wind, rain or snow. This car comes with a hard top or
soft top. And, contrary to
> Bob R's reminders about the effects of winter road salt on cars in New
England, this one is in
> great shape. I was fortunate enough to have met Jack last summer and saw
this car at his house. It
> was in excellent shape.
>
> --- "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Jim Coate wrote:
> > > There is a cute little 1974 MG Midget electric car on eBay, in Chester
> > > CT, item #4625885016.
> > >
> > > Was this one of Jack Gretta's prizes? Although located close to me, I
> > > don't really have the money right now... I hope someone does to give
> > > it a nice loving home!
> > >
Hi EVerybody;
Yup, Thay's Jack's MG! Howmany OTHER electric MG's could their be in
sleepy little Chester CT??This car was beautifully restored by Jack's son,
who is an auto body man extradenaire. Beautifully refinished, it looks brand
new. Jack was pretty much a fair weather driver, car lived in his big two
bay garage. He got a hardtop for it early on, making it all weather. Tony
Acrizzi helped him install a Rapter, and ADV 8 inch motor. I don't remember
if he uses a clutch, I think he duz? But I havent driven the car in years,
don't remember.The charger was a variac and rectifyer, with a timer, I
think. Jack fiddled around with different charging stuff.Voltagearound 82 or
so?He had an odd number of batteries, as I remember.It USED to have an olde
GE motor from a Henney, but that died a few years ago, hence the ADV 8,
Rapture setup.
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4625885016
> > >
> > >
> > > 72 volts of flooded PbAs, 7.2 HP GE motor, doesn't say what controller
> > > (anyone know?).
> > >
> > > hmmmmm... if I sell the Solectria Force and get the MG and soup it up
> > > with a bigger controller/motor/AGMs.... 2500 pounds is a light car....
> > > droooooolllllll.... though might not be practical in the winter and
> > > bad weather..... hmmmmmmmm......
> > >
> > > I think the 8 will give ya decent performance with the light car
that it is, the Rapture is good for 600 amps or so. He was running T 145's
Far as I know.
> > >
> >
> > Well yeah, that's 2500lbs with a 50mile range. Give some of that up by
> > switching to lighter AGMs, put a 8" or 9" in there, and you should have
> > one fun little rocket. Don't worry too much about adverse weather, just
> > use that right foot and OUTRUN the raindrops and snowflakes ;)
> > Or as Jack did for cabin heat; take your Golden Retreiver with you<g>!
> > But seriously, there are hardtops for MG Midgets floating around.
> >
> > Here is a picture of my favorite style:
> > http://www.evforge.net/pub/index.php?code=1143484073MS0IFHOKF5
> >
> > -- So if anybody ios looking for a REAL CLEAN car , EVen in CT, here is
one, looking for a loving home. Jack loved dearly that car.And it shows.
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have 12 deka grp 27 gel cels that i removed from my 94 solectria because 5
of them were flat and the other 7 will only hold 5 to 8 volts. My question
is are they good for anything besides recycling,can they be refurbished?
Mike Young
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: Wire gauge thoughts
> Hello Tim,
>
> This is for continuous duty. You still going to have a certain voltage
drop
> per size of wire no matter if its in the first minute or the next hour at
> the wire temperature rating.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 11:51 AM
> Subject: RE: Wire gauge thoughts
>
>
> > Roland,
> >
> > The specs that you posted... aren't those the rated capacity for a 24
hour
> > duty cycle?
> >
> > It seems to me that a typical EV's 1/2 to 1 hour duty cycle would yield
a
> > much greater rating.
> >
> >
> > Stay Charged!
> > Hump
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Roland Wiench
> > Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 10:18 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Wire gauge thoughts
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Stefan Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 9:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: Wire gauge thoughts
> >
> >
> > > Roland Wiench wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > A No. 4 AWG multi strand copper wire with a insulation that is rated
> > > > at 105
> > > > C(221 F) that may be enclosed in a wireway with two other cables, or
> > > > three
> > > > conductors that has not over 60 percent fill and each wire is space
so
> > > > there
> > > > is not more than 24 inches of surface contact between the conductors
> > > > in
> > > > a
> > > > ambient temperature of 20 C(68 F) shall be rated at 140 amps.
> > > >
> > > > The maximum length in this type of spacing is 80 feet.
> > > >
> > > > As a single conductor in open air, then the maximum is about 180
amps.
> > > >
> > > > If there are more than three conductors in a raceway, than you must
> > > > de-rated
> > > > the ampere by 20 percent.
> > > >
> > > > Roland
> > > >
> > >
> > > Thanks very much!
> > >
> > > Thinking of ordering this:
> > > http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4032
> > > and these:
> > > http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1332
> > > for short (10 in) inter-battery hookups on a 96V (12x8) pack for 80A
> > > typical (400A peak) use. Should I be running two parallel cables
between
> > > batts?
> >
> > If it was me, and I had only a lot of No.4 terminal lugs and wire in
> > stock,
> > I would parallel the cables. Just use two No.4 terminal lugs back to
> > back,
> > so it will lay out nice.
> >
> > You have to calculated the total length of cable run. In my battery
pack,
> > I
> >
> > have 40 feet of cable links alone. Then there is a circuit run of 25
feet
> > from the motor thru the controller thru the contactors and to the
battery,
> > which makes 50 + 40 = 90 feet for me.
> >
> > The resistance will be higher with all these connections than a straight
> > run
> >
> > of 90 feet of wire.
> >
> > I am using 2/0 wire which is good for 300 amps in open air for that
> > distance. The voltage I start out with is about 200 volts on a 180 volt
> > pack. Its drops right now to 192 volts at 50 battery amps and than only
> > drop to 185 volts after 5 days of driving or about 16 to 20 miles which
> > the
> > battery pack is just going below 75 percent. I am running a high
> > ampere-hour
> >
> > battery of 260 AH.
> >
> > My peak maximum battery amperes is about 100 amps, and the motor amperes
> > set
> >
> > at a maximum surge to 400 amps. My normal driving is 50 battery amperes
> > and
> >
> > just below 200 motor amperes.
> >
> > Roland
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You are pretty much right on here Phillippe. Bill Mulgrew put 3 strings
(216V) in his G-van and although they worked they turned out to be such a
hassle that he gave up and sold the van. Thats why I am holding out for big
modules. David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 3:22 AM
Subject: Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
> i agree totally on that !
>
> watering my E-scooter purpose 31 cells CVH50 nicad aircraft starting
battery
> is already a 1,5 hour pain (despite they are double water capacity than
> BB600 and so need half watering schedule)
> Imagine you are going to put with a seringe arround 30ml water every 50
> hours of use in EACH 500 cell (mine is 100 to 150 hour reserve and still
> boring me every time i water them)
> I think with 2 minutes/cell you can forget watering more cells than 100,
> it's going to last the day and night and be quickly a pain for EV commute
> usage !!!
>
> these cells are perfect for mower, escooter, ups, all purpose with 24 to
> 60V, more voltage and you are going to hate demineralized water and
seringe
> usage.
>
> Wh/kg are on same level than good AGM during summer, STM5-100 give arround
> 15wh/kg more (55wh/kg compared to 40wh/kg for aircraft starting nicad)
>
> If you want nicad in your car, use STM5-100 as advised in their technical
> manual and you will never regret it during their +1500 cycles life.
> you still have to protect your aluminium box though...
>
> just my "aircraft starting cells user" advise...been there done that
>
> cordialement,
> Philippe
>
> Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
> quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
> http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Putting NiCDs in an aluminum box
>
>
> > Having used both BB600's and STM-100's, I've got to tell you that there
is
> > very little comparison. The STMs are way better. Of course I like them
> > both better than lead.
> >
> > My motorcycle had a real 30 - 40 mile range with 228lbs of STM-100s and
> I'm
> > lucky to get half that with 160lbs of BB600's, plus the watering system
on
> > the STMs is hard to beat. Either way, a nice stiff pack of NiCads is
> great.
> > I was enjoying that feeling today as I was out riding. They are rock
> > solid until they finally poop out.
> >
> >
> > damon
> >
> >
> > >From: Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Reply-To: [email protected]
> > >To: [email protected]
> > >Subject: Re: Putting NiCDs in an aluminum box
> > >Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 23:09:38 -0500
> > >
> > >>However, the commercial battery boxes I see for nicads never use
> > >>aluminum. They are always stainless steel or nickel (which don't
corrode
> > >>in KOH). Is there any special reason why you don't use one of them?
> > >
> > >Well, the truck already has a very nice battery box :-) Seriously
> speaking
> > >it's a very nice US_Electricar design and mounted to the frame in a
very
> > >solid and secure proper manner.
> > >
> > >There is also the issue of "this might not really work". BB600's might
be
> > >too much of a pain, the energy density might be too low, they might not
> > >equal strings of Hawkers.
> > >
> > >I've been working up to this test by trying the BB600's in the
Elec-trak,
> > >followed by a parallel string, followed by blowing more snow than heck
> this
> > >winter to see how they could stand up to use. They seem good, this is
the
> > >next step.
> > >
> > >I think I am going to do this as sort of a "pilot project" for a year
or
> > >so. If NiCDs turn out to be the greatest thing since sliced bread then
I
> > >will sell the BB600's next year and spend serious money for 50
STM-100's.
> > >If they turn out to be dogs, then I will pull them out and install a
set
> of
> > >Hawker 42ah batteries. If they turn out to do everything I want and not
> > >need much attention then I will pull the Al battery box and replace it
> with
> > >a steel box subsystem capable of holding 500 BB600 batteries somehow.
> > >
> > >I'm hoping the vents, the POR15 paint, and a tarp based liner will hold
> for
> > >a year or so in the meantime.
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Don, all
Well I know John Waylands Siamese8 setup runs 772 ft. lbs. @ 348 volts. Now
the armature doesn't see higher than 170 volts or you get a real nasty arc-over
like we saw last year at Woodburn. My input so far is these motors just love
the over-voltage, alot more than they like under-voltage. The secret though is
finding the right size motor (or pair of motors) for the job. In Waylands case
the motor is running perfectly with no signes of heat what so ever. In fact
the brush leads look almost as new as they were from the factory and so it
tells me that he can pull the load up if he'd like. He will be adding field
weakening in fact and we'll see how that fairs once completed. If Matt were to
post some comm pics I could take a look at how his setup is fairing (hey Matt).
I've been really busy here but just had to pop in and post to this.
Hope this helps
Ps: I just put up a new "Hall of Flame" pic from Utah States snowmobile motor
after the belt broke on them. One of the judges were riding it when it broke,
truely a bummer to see but I know you animals like seeing it, lmao!! so take a
look and keep those rpm's in check, hehehe.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
http://www.hitorqueelectric.com
Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I was so impressed by John's description of Matt's 200sx I really want to
know more.
On the evsource web site, it lists the 9" Warp DC Motor as follows:
* HP = 70 @ 120 Volts DC (435 Amps)
* 116 Ft. pounds torque
Not a huge amount, but Matt's car has 25 batteries, so he runs at 300V. I
have a couple of questions about this:
- what does 300V do to the torque and power? How much more is it?
- what happens to brushes when running at this voltage? Is it an issue or
more of a maintenance issue?
Thanks
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Husted [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Well I know John Waylands Siamese8 setup runs 772 ft. lbs.
> @ 348 volts.
Hey Jim, how do you know this? Did John finally get the 'Zombie onto a
dyno like he's been hoping to on and off for the last year or more? Or,
did you guys dyno the motor on its own?
Either way, is there any more real data available; torque vs RPM curves,
etc.? Data like this is hard to come by for racing level voltages and
currents...
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim, great info - thanks.
If John runs 348 volts, why is it that the armature sees only 170V ?
Special setup or are the motors in parallel?
Thanks
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Husted
Sent: March 27, 2006 2:44 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: DC Motors for Racing (and Matt's Nissan 200SX)
Hey Don, all
Well I know John Waylands Siamese8 setup runs 772 ft. lbs. @ 348 volts.
Now the armature doesn't see higher than 170 volts or you get a real nasty
arc-over like we saw last year at Woodburn. My input so far is these motors
just love the over-voltage, alot more than they like under-voltage. The
secret though is finding the right size motor (or pair of motors) for the
job. In Waylands case the motor is running perfectly with no signes of heat
what so ever. In fact the brush leads look almost as new as they were from
the factory and so it tells me that he can pull the load up if he'd like.
He will be adding field weakening in fact and we'll see how that fairs once
completed. If Matt were to post some comm pics I could take a look at how
his setup is fairing (hey Matt). I've been really busy here but just had to
pop in and post to this.
Hope this helps
Ps: I just put up a new "Hall of Flame" pic from Utah States snowmobile
motor after the belt broke on them. One of the judges were riding it when
it broke, truely a bummer to see but I know you animals like seeing it,
lmao!! so take a look and keep those rpm's in check, hehehe.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
http://www.hitorqueelectric.com
Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I was so impressed by John's description of Matt's 200sx I really want to
know more.
On the evsource web site, it lists the 9" Warp DC Motor as follows:
* HP = 70 @ 120 Volts DC (435 Amps)
* 116 Ft. pounds torque
Not a huge amount, but Matt's car has 25 batteries, so he runs at 300V. I
have a couple of questions about this:
- what does 300V do to the torque and power? How much more is it?
- what happens to brushes when running at this voltage? Is it an issue or
more of a maintenance issue?
Thanks
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim,
I was just reading your web site about the work you did on Richard's new
Warp motor. Nice job. I have a few of questions:
1) what does wrapping the comms actually do?
2) do you see any room to be able to trim on 30lbs on these motors?
3) why put the band on the riser?
4) do you have a recomendation for a better brush holder than the sheet
steel type?
thanks
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Well I know John Waylands Siamese8 setup runs 772
> ft. lbs. @ 348 volts. Now the armature doesn't see
> higher than 170 volts or you get a real nasty
> arc-over like we saw last year at Woodburn. My
The Datsun starts out in series mode and will not see
voltages higher than 170V even under light load.
Then you switch to parallel to get higher top speed.
Do you limit the motor voltage with the Zilla in
parallel mode?
If so wouldn't weakening the field cause arcing at a
lower voltage forcing you to lower the Zilla setpoint?
Seems like it would be easier to just set a higher
motor voltage instead of field weakening.
I'm probably missing something basic you already
explained in an earlier post. I would be interested
in seeing another description of the new setup.
Thanks,
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rodger, all
I just called Wayland and he informed me that Joe Smalley did the calulations
based off his 60 foot times, weight of the car and amperage, ect. I'm sure
John can add details here. I agree with you in that collecting the data is a
hard thing to get. Many of my mods are still untested and it makes me crazy as
I wait for the numbers to be reported. BTW remember that it's been a pretty
hard winter here this year and Wayland like the rest of us works hard, long
hours paying the bills so it takes time to put together a trip to the dyno not
to mention other EVents. I'm sure John will pipe in here tonight (he's coming
over the mountain tonight as a matter of fact and I'll be having dinner with
him (so I'll get to prod him here, hehe)
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim Husted [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Well I know John Waylands Siamese8 setup runs 772 ft. lbs.
> @ 348 volts.
Hey Jim, how do you know this? Did John finally get the 'Zombie onto a
dyno like he's been hoping to on and off for the last year or more? Or,
did you guys dyno the motor on its own?
Either way, is there any more real data available; torque vs RPM curves,
etc.? Data like this is hard to come by for racing level voltages and
currents...
Cheers,
Roger.
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Husted [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Ps: I just put up a new "Hall of Flame" pic from Utah
> States snowmobile motor after the belt broke on them. One of
> the judges were riding it when it broke, truely a bummer to
> see but I know you animals like seeing it, lmao!! so take a
> look and keep those rpm's in check, hehehe.
Hey Jim, what's the story with the 4 terminals on this snowmobile motor?
Wonder what the odds are that the team will invest in a rev limiter
(assuming they aren't using a controller with that capability built in)
before installing the re-built motor? ;^>
Thanks for putting up the "Hall of Flame"; very interesting resource!
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
> This peak detector is for charging a NiMH/Nicad pack for my truck.
Aha! That helps a lot. What you need is a very long-term peak detector.
Something that detects the highest voltage over the last 5-15 minutes;
not over millisecond periods. There are several approaches.
The all-analog approach
-----------------------
Use a big capacitor and large resistor to get the desired multi-minute
time constant. An opamp or comparator looks at the voltage across the
resistor. When it is positive, you are still charging and haven't
reached the peak yet. When it goes negative, you've reached the peak and
have started back down.
C(farads) = T(sec) / R(ohms). You generally don't want resistors larger
than 1 meg if the circuit is expected to work at high humidity. So a
10-minute time constant requires C = 600sec / 1meg = 600uF.
Capacitors this large will be +/-20% at best. So you can expect
relatively low timing accuracy.
The digital approach
--------------------
Use an A/D converter to convert the analog signal to a binary number.
Compare this number to the number from a counter. The comparator has 3
outputs; "greater than", "less than" and "equal". If the analog number
is greater, count up. If the numbers are equal, do nothing. If the
analog number is smaller, you've found you peak; use this output to turn
off your charger.
The Lester "CompuTime II" chargers use this method. It takes an opamp
and a few CMOS 400-series digital ICs.
The microcomputer approach
--------------------------
The same as the above, except the logic is performed by software in a
microcomputer.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: LED Headlights and the DOT
Snip(snipe)-a-bit
> >It's not like it's going to make me run into something but it's just
> >annoying IMHO and does not improve safety. Anybody else ever peeve over
it?
> >
> >Danny
> >Danny..... I hear ya! Those BLINDING blue lights on the damn SUV's are a
royal PITA!! I'm following the thread on lights, of late. I see the desire
to do LED's for taillites and side marker lights. The U haul trailer had
them, that I rented to haul Seth's Saturn, were a joy. But as for
headlights, hell, leave the stock ones alone! Just tune, adjust them
correctly. You would be surprised at the difference. So many people have
headlites so poorly adjusted, 'way up in the trees or off in the woods,
never enjoyed the possabilities that the car builder intended!Yeah! Ya may
save a few watts, but as guyz on here have done the math and pointed out, ya
gain a few hundred yards in range. Better to take to heart the threads on
alignment of late on here for range.And with most of our conversion EV's
outdriving good stock headlites isn't an issue.
My two lumans worth.
Bob> __________
> Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Your definition resume all and is the one to remember:
"although they worked they turned out to be such a
hassle"
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
> You are pretty much right on here Phillippe. Bill Mulgrew put 3 strings
> (216V) in his G-van and although they worked they turned out to be such a
> hassle that he gave up and sold the van. Thats why I am holding out for
big
> modules. David Chapman.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 3:22 AM
> Subject: Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in
an
> aluminum box]
>
>
> > i agree totally on that !
> >
> > watering my E-scooter purpose 31 cells CVH50 nicad aircraft starting
> battery
> > is already a 1,5 hour pain (despite they are double water capacity than
> > BB600 and so need half watering schedule)
> > Imagine you are going to put with a seringe arround 30ml water every 50
> > hours of use in EACH 500 cell (mine is 100 to 150 hour reserve and still
> > boring me every time i water them)
> > I think with 2 minutes/cell you can forget watering more cells than 100,
> > it's going to last the day and night and be quickly a pain for EV
commute
> > usage !!!
> >
> > these cells are perfect for mower, escooter, ups, all purpose with 24 to
> > 60V, more voltage and you are going to hate demineralized water and
> seringe
> > usage.
> >
> > Wh/kg are on same level than good AGM during summer, STM5-100 give
arround
> > 15wh/kg more (55wh/kg compared to 40wh/kg for aircraft starting nicad)
> >
> > If you want nicad in your car, use STM5-100 as advised in their
technical
> > manual and you will never regret it during their +1500 cycles life.
> > you still have to protect your aluminium box though...
> >
> > just my "aircraft starting cells user" advise...been there done that
> >
> > cordialement,
> > Philippe
> >
> > Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
> > quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> > Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 7:14 AM
> > Subject: Re: Putting NiCDs in an aluminum box
> >
> >
> > > Having used both BB600's and STM-100's, I've got to tell you that
there
> is
> > > very little comparison. The STMs are way better. Of course I like
them
> > > both better than lead.
> > >
> > > My motorcycle had a real 30 - 40 mile range with 228lbs of STM-100s
and
> > I'm
> > > lucky to get half that with 160lbs of BB600's, plus the watering
system
> on
> > > the STMs is hard to beat. Either way, a nice stiff pack of NiCads is
> > great.
> > > I was enjoying that feeling today as I was out riding. They are
rock
> > > solid until they finally poop out.
> > >
> > >
> > > damon
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Reply-To: [email protected]
> > > >To: [email protected]
> > > >Subject: Re: Putting NiCDs in an aluminum box
> > > >Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 23:09:38 -0500
> > > >
> > > >>However, the commercial battery boxes I see for nicads never use
> > > >>aluminum. They are always stainless steel or nickel (which don't
> corrode
> > > >>in KOH). Is there any special reason why you don't use one of them?
> > > >
> > > >Well, the truck already has a very nice battery box :-) Seriously
> > speaking
> > > >it's a very nice US_Electricar design and mounted to the frame in a
> very
> > > >solid and secure proper manner.
> > > >
> > > >There is also the issue of "this might not really work". BB600's
might
> be
> > > >too much of a pain, the energy density might be too low, they might
not
> > > >equal strings of Hawkers.
> > > >
> > > >I've been working up to this test by trying the BB600's in the
> Elec-trak,
> > > >followed by a parallel string, followed by blowing more snow than
heck
> > this
> > > >winter to see how they could stand up to use. They seem good, this is
> the
> > > >next step.
> > > >
> > > >I think I am going to do this as sort of a "pilot project" for a year
> or
> > > >so. If NiCDs turn out to be the greatest thing since sliced bread
then
> I
> > > >will sell the BB600's next year and spend serious money for 50
> STM-100's.
> > > >If they turn out to be dogs, then I will pull them out and install a
> set
> > of
> > > >Hawker 42ah batteries. If they turn out to do everything I want and
not
> > > >need much attention then I will pull the Al battery box and replace
it
> > with
> > > >a steel box subsystem capable of holding 500 BB600 batteries somehow.
> > > >
> > > >I'm hoping the vents, the POR15 paint, and a tarp based liner will
hold
> > for
> > > >a year or so in the meantime.
> > > >
> > > >Chris
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No problem with industrial ni-cad availability for the moment and probably
not until a decade in my humble opinion though certainly in the maybe 5 to
10 futur years.
EU regulation state that AA,AAA,C,D nicad and more generaly all new hand
tool sold since 1/01/05 MUST not use nicad .
For industrial application (as EV batteries) they give 01/2008 delay to....
examine the market situation again: if there is other solution, nicad is
dead ! if not they will...give little more time at market to find commercial
viable solution.
imho, STM5-100 will stay here for few years more...
from one point of view it's a very good thing because this batteries are the
best EV batterie actually at their price (remember always stating imho, not
starting a debat here)
But also from opposite point of view it's a very bad thing for Europe
because investment for new technology (ni-mh, ni-zinc, li-ion...) should not
be so active without real pressure from EU regulation... time will
tell...but seems to me "China" and Korea are some of the ones already ahead.
cordialement,
Philippe from France
using 2 E-cars and a powerfull E-scooter using nicad technology :^)
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 3:27 AM
Subject: Re: advise not using BB600 for long string [was Putting NiCDs in an
aluminum box]
> On 26 Mar 2006 at 7:51, Christopher Zach wrote:
>
> > Anyone want to trade a set of 50 STM-100
> > NiCds for about 300 BB600's?
>
> You wish! ;-)
>
> Fifty STM5-100MREs will weigh 660kg (1452 lb). Each one has a footprint
of
> about 300 cm^2 (46 sq in), for a total space required of 14,880 cm^2 (2306
> sq in). They stand 26cm (10.25") high. You should limit current to 200
> amps continuous, 500 amps for 10 seconds max (Solectria just set the
> inverters for a limit of 200 amps on their nicad cars, which turned out to
> be a smart move). If you can accommodate all this, you'll be fine.
>
> > The only big problem is that I think such a set would cost around $20k,
> > which is a bit out of my budget for an unproven design.
>
> The Saft STMs aren't really what I'd call an "unproven design." The
design
> is now over 10 years old. They were used in thousands of European
> production EVs. (OK, I'll grant you, the early ones had some problems.
;-)
>
> If you want some of these modules you probably should step lively. I've
> heard that because of more stringent EU regulations of cadmium, they may
> become permanently unavailable, if they haven't already. Maybe some of
our
> European correspondents can address that matter.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you plane to use STM or BB600 or other "wet" nicad:
peak voltage detection don't work well enough for wet nicad you will see
quickly charge problems (thermal runaway, imbalance)
Use an emeter tracking Ah in/out telling when to stop at a constant current,
max voltage supply (8,15V/6 volt module)
Add a temperature security relay cutting the charge if more than 45° and you
have a correct charge"inexpensive" solution.
The best is a nicad programmed charger...
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 12:22 AM
Subject: RE: Peak Detector
> Cor,
>
> This peak detector is for charging a NiMH/Nicad pack for my truck.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> --- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > "a diode and a capacitor" is the basics of a peak detector.
> > But your question sounds like "anyone having an amplifier?"
> > It depends on what it needs to do:
> >
> > What are the driving and loading impedance,
> > which freq does it need to respond to,
> > what are the attack and decay time contants?
> >
> > Give me more info on the application and I (or someone else
> > on the list) can give you more info on the proper dimensioning.
> >
> > Historical note: the first application of the peak detector
> > that I know of was the famous crystal receiver for AM radio.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Mike Phillips
> > Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:20 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Peak Detector
> >
> >
> > Anyone have a peak detector schematic laying around? I've done web
> > searching without any luck.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Here's to the crazy ones.
> > The misfits.
> > The rebels.
> > The troublemakers.
> > The round pegs in the square holes.
> > The ones who see things differently
> > The ones that change the world!!
> >
> > www.RotorDesign.com
> >
> >
>
>
> Here's to the crazy ones.
> The misfits.
> The rebels.
> The troublemakers.
> The round pegs in the square holes.
> The ones who see things differently
> The ones that change the world!!
>
> www.RotorDesign.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have 2 of these controllers, GE EV-1B (with 24-84 V, 5H9 cards). My old
007 had the GE EV-1C. I'm not sure which one the Saab Sonett had, but it did
have a bypass. I seem to remember that it pulled about 250 A in SCR mode and
then about 500 A with the bypass. The 007 currently pulls about 300 A, but I
think that is because we turned the current rating way down.
Does anyone know the continuous, and max rating (with how long at the max
rating) for the EV-1B, EV-1C, and EV-1D (which I only know about from the
manual,
but have never seen).
This will help the calculations for my car and a few others still trying to
use these controllers.
Thanks,
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 1989 Isuzu pick-up 120 volt system. It has been on the road since
03/03/06. I have 20 Interstate u2200 220 amp deep cycle batts. I have a 22
mile round trip some hills just before I get home.
I have been driving it daily back and forth to work. I charge at night when I
get home with a Zivan NG3 220 volt and make the round trip. The outside temps
have been anywhere from 20F to 45F. I can go anhwhere from 25 miles to 45
miles so far depending on the outside temps the distance is about half and half
city 25 to 30 and country 50 to 55 mph.
Today 03/27/06 was the first time I had to water them. Almost 2 gal of
distiled water. They were all low but none of them had gotten near the plates.
This to me seems about right for the set up.
Tom
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rodger
The four field studs you saw on the snowmobile ADC 8 are because I set it up
to run the coils in series as well as the OEM series / parallel. I figuered
they could use the extra torque starting out and climbing hills and such. The
Gamera 9 for Jay Donnaway is setup the same way. It allows the user a little
more options when tuning the motor to that particular project. To quote a good
buddy Rod Wilde "everything matter" when racing or for that matter distance if
competing that direction. I'm still waiting further info from USU on the
outcomes from their tests. I've had conflicting reports but on their last
email it stated that they used this as a main focus on their paper on this
project and it's benifits. It seems I'm just the motor dork and always the
last to know when it comes to updates, lmao!!
Now I need to point out that this is different than what John Wayland and
Matt Graham are doing with a dual motor series / parallel shift. They are
shifting the batteries to either run through both motors in series (motor 1 to
motor 2) or both motors at once in parallel. The single motor field switching
is actually replumbing the coils to run series or series / parallel. Series
offers more torque but costs one in amps. The biggest surprise was seeing the
rpm's higher in series mode at X current as oppossed to the standard series /
parallel plumbing.
Well UPS just got here so I got to jam
Hope this helps
I got some more to post tonight when I get home
Cya
Jim
Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim Husted [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Ps: I just put up a new "Hall of Flame" pic from Utah
> States snowmobile motor after the belt broke on them. One of
> the judges were riding it when it broke, truely a bummer to
> see but I know you animals like seeing it, lmao!! so take a
> look and keep those rpm's in check, hehehe.
Hey Jim, what's the story with the 4 terminals on this snowmobile motor?
Wonder what the odds are that the team will invest in a rev limiter
(assuming they aren't using a controller with that capability built in)
before installing the re-built motor? ;^>
Thanks for putting up the "Hall of Flame"; very interesting resource!
Cheers,
Roger.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: Congratulations to Matt Graham and Lowell Simmons!
> At 09:29 AM 3/24/2006, you wrote:
> >Uh....Madman, not to try to take 'anything' away from Matt's
> >accomplishment, but duh....our track doesn't even open until late April
:-)
> >Living in the same Pacific Northwest area as I do, you of all people
> >should know this. Unlike balmy Florida, we have to wait for drag racing
> >weather to return after the Winter's ice and snow, and the early Spring's
> >rains are behind us.
> >
> >By the way, when will 'you' make it into your own Madman's 100? ;-)
> >
> >See Ya...John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
> >
> >Way to go, Matt and Lowell!
>
> I suddenly have an image of carbide studded drag slicks. I wonder how
many
> would be left in the tires after the burnout?:)
>
> Or how many spectaters off to the Emergency Room after standing around
behind the burnout?!
> __________
> Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
>
--- End Message ---
