EV Digest 5298
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DC Motors for Racing ft.lbs. and hp
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Oozing Joints
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Oozing Joints
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: internal resistance
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Oozing Joints
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Bizarre Amphour Meter Idea
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Oozing Joints
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Fast Street Car with Twin DC Motors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Fast Street Car with Twin DC Motors
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Fast Street Car with Twin DC Motors
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: STM5-100
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Fast Street Car with Twin DC Motors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: rust removal
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Newbie- Info on Compact Pick-up
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Public charging -- DC generator
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: internal resistance
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Hydrogen: The Emperor Is Naked
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Newbie- Info on Compact Pick-up
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: my (theoretical) setup, comments
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: my (theoretical) setup, comments
by Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: my (theoretical) setup
by Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: my (theoretical) setup, comments
by Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I wonder what goes through John's head on those long runs over the
mountains...It's tough doing a solo run When you have better things to do.
I drove back from Virgina Beach a couple of weeks ago Solo. LOTS of time
to think....I kinda like it.
No the 772 ftlbs is only there while the Zilla is making 2000 amps. Or what
ever amps that John had the Zilla set to...When he did the run that Joe used
as a acceleration model.
And Lets get this clear.... ONLY WHILE in SERIES MODE!!
The last acceleration plot I saw, he was making this level for only about
750 Miliseconds. This is the point Us Geeks want to lengthen...
Since Joe and I didn't record the run with our G-anyalyst... and then offset
for Ot's data Skew... Really solid dyno quality data ...is Still needed. But
the numbers are getting aLOT better and believeable.
The last time Joe and I did a full data run was on Gone Postal ... with one
of the rear motors enabled and the other dissabled. We came to the logic
that more than 1300 amps at launch was turning good copper into plasma at a
heck of a rate.
We would like to do as best of a Data run as we can on the White Zombie...
but time and circumstances have not let that happen.
What we need now Jim, is a Warp 8 that has some real motor mods done to
it... Like tighter air gaps, Shimmed field shoes... and then some field
weakening to compensate for less RPM. Or some 7075 -T6 End caps and bearing
holders... and about 4 inches less case Steel.
And you need to find brushes... that are right for the wet side of the
hills.
Stiff drink time... Move brushes on the Siamease 8.. Funn Right??...
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: DC Motors for Racing ft.lbs. and hp
> Hey Rich
>
> Don't want you thinking that I snitched you off to John or anything,
hehe. I saw your post about the 772 ft.lbs. and it read (to me) like you
were saying they couldn't, due to the battery sag, and the fact the motors
don't see over 170 volts, ect. Anyway I don't want to be quoting bogus
numbers, as it's important to me to be as informed as I can. I guess when I
stated the 772 I should have said peak, would that be correct??
> Anyways it gave me a reason to rat you out (I mean ask) to John and tell
him that you said he's full of crap, lmao!! To top it off I lost internet
and I couldn't read it to him, so next time don't answer your phone and let
him stew on it over the mountain 8^ P
>
> On a final note I made an electric scooter this evening. It's ugly as
sin but I think Kayla will dig it till I gut it out for a better project.
Matt and Shawn sent me out a little TSP controller (thanks guys) and I found
a little baby PM motor and rigged it up as a friction drive, no I ain't
posting no pics either, lmao. I can finally say I've built my first EV
though, even gave me a small EV grin, lmao.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save
big.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Where on the CV?
Here's a picture that shows it best:
http://www.users.qwest.net/~denniswilliamsha/OozingGrease.jpg
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Where on the CV?
Here's a picture that shows it best:
<http://www.users.qwest.net/~denniswilliamsha/OozingGrease.jpg>
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Carl Clifford wrote:
> Thanks Lee - now to take it a step further; my understanding is that
> internal resistance translates to voltage sag. Does the resistance
> in your connections also translate to voltage sag, or is this
> somehow exempt?
Resistance is resistance. Ohm's Law applies whether the resistance is
inside or outside of a battery.
> I would think that if it did, we would see some design bias toward
> fewer, larger batteries, but I haven't noticed that except in the
> context of the expense and difficulty of making all of the connections.
In mass-produced EVs, you *do* see a strong bias toward a few large
batteries rather than many small ones. Golf carts, fork lifts, etc. all
use low voltage, high current systems, rarely higher than 72v. The lower
voltages are safer, there are fewer batteries, connections and parts to
go bad, and they tend to be cheaper for a given amount of power.
The recent batch of auto company built EVs were an exception, because
they were rank novices at EV design and tended not to pay any attention
to what existing EVs were already doing (it's called NIH or Not Invented
Here syndrome). They used high voltages (around 300v), and so were more
complicated, expensive, required far more stringen safety precautions,
and had many battery balancing problems.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
Neon John wrote:
Where on the CV?
Here's a picture that shows it best:
www.users.qwest.net/~denniswilliamsha/OozingGrease.jpg
Bill Dennis
Umm, aren't you supposed to have band clamps on the outside (small) end
of the CV boots?
--
Stefan T. Peters
Electronic Zombie, Corp.
www.electroniczombie.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
>> If someone was serious about doing [a motor driven amphour meter],
>> I'd suggest getting a Portescap "Escap" motor. These are beautiful
>> little Swiss instrumentation motors, complete with the precision
>> bearings and gold commutators. I have one about 1" long and 0.5"
>> in diameter. It is nominally a 12v motor, but runs on 0.1v at
>> 2ma no load.
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Hmmm to me "no load" means "slotted disk with phase detecting photo
> interrupters" -- the guts from an old (computer) mouse would work well.
The Escap motor I have are actually gearmotors, with 200:1 reductions
already in place, so "no load" includes running all the gears. Adding
hands or an odometer-type counter doesn't add any real load.
The key point is that you can wind a motor for any voltage you like;
including 50 millivolts. A PM motor has a very good relationship between
voltage and rpm when lightly loaded. Under load, the resistance of the
windings alters the speed.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are band clamps on there. They're just too grime-covered to see
clearly in the picture.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Stefan T. Peters
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 11:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Oozing Joints
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Neon John wrote:
>
>> Where on the CV?
>>
>
> Here's a picture that shows it best:
>
> www.users.qwest.net/~denniswilliamsha/OozingGrease.jpg
>
> Bill Dennis
>
>
>
>
Umm, aren't you supposed to have band clamps on the outside (small) end
of the CV boots?
--
Stefan T. Peters
Electronic Zombie, Corp.
www.electroniczombie.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
steve clunn wrote:
> I think this is a eureka idea. So the reversing battery would need to
> put out enough current to run the field and match the motor amps that
> the controller is putting out.
Yes, there are problems with this approach. Suppose you need something
like 100 motor amps to get enough torque to back up in your direct-drive
EV. With no contactors, you normally have 100 amps in the field and 100
amps in the armature, and move forward. The "reverse" battery will have
to supply 200 amps to the field to back up; 100 amps would just bring
the field current to zero, and the other 100 reverses it so you back up.
And if you leave the reverse battery connected when you let up the
throttle to stop, it will also power the armature via the freewheel
diode in the controller, so you'll keep right on going!
>> The 'trick' in Johns' case, is to get reverse, without adding
>> contactors in the main current path and unbalancing the pair of
>> motors.
Well, there's a very old way to do this. I saw a motor from the 1930's
on a drill press. It had the usual big series field that took up most of
the winding space. But also had a small-gauge, many-turn series field
that was perhaps 10% of the size. When you switched on the motor, it
powered the series and armature and the drill ran normally. But there
was a pushbutton that powered the small field and armature; pushing it
made the motor BACK UP slowly at low power. It backed up because the
polarity of this second field was opposite of the main field. I think
the idea was to back the drill out of the hole.
So, John might be able to crowd in a small, high-turns count field into
his motors. Wire its polarity opposite the main field. When he wants to
back up, close an additional small contactor that powers the small
reverse field and armature. Reverse would just be a one-speed on/off
deal.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eureka?
2 zilla 1k's instead of 1 zilla 2k?
1 for the fields and 1 for the armatures Driven off of the same
hairball with reversing contactors on just the field set.
That way the amps stay balanced. (humm, but what about the series
parallel contactors now?)
Now if two hairballs are used and somehow synced, I suppose we could
get more than just series parallel? maybe a field weaking for the traps :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: Fast Street Car with Twin DC Motors
> Hello to All,
>
.151 seconds away from hitting the
> 11's, I'll stick to having just fat 4/0 cables and thick copper bus bars
> inter-connecting the twin motor sections of the Siamese 8.
>
> See Ya......John Wayland
>
I might up the motor loop even more than that.
I am thinking 1/4 buss bars and milled copper in the contactor setup.
And Twin 0/4 or 250 MCM to the motors.
When the copper does not get warm durning a 2000 amp run...That's enough for
me.
Madman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
cowtown : (sorry i don't know your name)
You win twice and thanks to lighten my words.
:^)
John:
on the EV list i'm not fighting, never !
i prefer TATAMI for that purpose :^)
David Roden:
There is no watering secret: the key is to remember this >0,5
liter/battery<
if you had to put more (danger zone) or less write the kilometer since last
watering and
estimate the next watering kilometer point to stay arround 0,5L per battery
and so one...
For my Saxo it's arround 4000km, little less for the Clio.
There is no usage secret:
Never floor it when near end of discharge (after 70% DOD)
Monitor the temperature (they become hot at discharge) and always stay under
40°C, less is better.
There is no charge secret:
Use good (Saft advised) charge algorythm and conditions.
A totally automatic watering system with catching overflow technique is
(was) used on a tinny French EV car.
Brand Microcar name model Lyra.
It was using 6V140Ah nicad (SAFT STM5-140)
http://pboursin.club.fr/pdgve1d.htm
There was a tank you just filled with demineralized water and when needed
(OEM programmed) the electronic command a water pump to make the watering,
overflow was turned again into the tank.
The only drawback (for purist as me) was (is) old demineralized water cause
bacteries developement and with solar light it make grow his resistivity and
"dirt"
For this reason i purchase only what i need, seeking 1 month old or less
fabrication date code.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: STM5-100
> Oh dear, you're taking personal credit for his concession when he said *I*
was
> the winner (in the guess of a care regime that keeps NiCds alive longer).
>
> > Oh dear I'm sorry that you feel that this is some sort of fight with
winners
> > and losers.
> >
> > I only bring my thoughts, feelings and personal experience to the list
to
> > try and help others make their decisions and hope that when I have a
> > question then others share their experiences and techniques with me and
the
> > rest of our "brotherhood" of EV enthusiasts.
> >
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > > you win :^)
> > >
> > > cordialement,
> > > Philippe
> > >
> > >
> > >> >>> Philippe says the care regime is probably the cause of early
failure
> > > in the
> > >> Nicads. - So come on Philippe "spill the beans" what should we be
doing
> > > that the
> > >> manufacturer of the EV is not doing in the service routine and how
can us
> > >> enthusiastic owners do this properly without wasting our hard earned
> > > dollars.
> > >> <<<
> > >>
> > >> I'm only guessing here, but what about watering more often?
> > >>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
> .151 seconds away from hitting the 11's, I'll stick to having just
> fat 4/0 cables and thick copper bus bars inter-connecting the twin
> motor sections of the Siamese 8.
For you racers, where every ounce counts... Why not use aluminum buss
bars and wiring? Aluminum is only slightly less conductive, but 1/3rd
the weight of copper. So an aluminum wire of a given resistance is
physically larger, but much lighter. You'd be taking 10's of pounds of
copper out of the car.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
I'd say "pretty good", although I don't have any good long-term tests
since most of the pieces I used it on are on vehicles I no longer own.
I have used it on my car where I had to cut into the sheet metal, and
haven't noticed any rust in these places (but there wasn't any to begin
with).
Ralph
mike golub writes:
>
> How successful is this product ?
>
> Thanks
>
> --- Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > I use a spray-on rust neutralizer made under the
> > Naval Jelly brand.
> > There are other similar products, which supposedly
> > turn the rust into
> > something benign and prime the metal for painting.
> >
> > You have to remove as much of the rust as possible
> > with a wire brush
> > or sandpaper. Then you spray on the neutralizer and
> > let it sit for
> > 24 hours. The rust turns black and the part is
> > ready to be painted.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> > mike golub writes:
> > >
> > > I'm using some angle iron to build battery boxes,
> > etc.
> > >
> > > I guess could soak the parts in HCL, but I just
> > heard
> > > of a better solution, but I don't know all the
> > > details.
> > >
> > > They said I could take a solution of water and
> > Soda
> > > Ash (CaCO3) and then insert the piece of steel in
> > the
> > > water, and then take 12 volt dc power supply and
> > put
> > > one lead on the metal, and the other into the
> > water.
> > >
> > > Not sure which lead goes where + or -?
> > >
> > > Also not sure of the concentration, or amps
> > required.
> > >
> > > any suggestions would be great.
> > >
> > > thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michaela,
do you have pictures of your battery access doors?
--- Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hey Greg:
>
> I have almost exactly the same setup. Rural area and
> flat, and we too need
> a pickup for ag use. See
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/693.html
>
> Our S-10 longbed has 24 6 V floodies and it should
> be no problem to get 30
> Miles at 50 mph (our truck uses approx. 110-150 A at
> 50 mph but it might
> be still a little bit on the 'high' side).
>
> You can contact me off list and I am happy to get
> into more detail.
>
> Michaela
>
>
> > I live in rural area and the roads are flat. The
> majority of maximum
> > speed is 55 mph with 4 curves (25-45 mph). It'll
> be about 25-30 miles
> > roundtrip. I'm planning to use S-10 or Ranger
> because I need a pick-up,
> > not car, for agricultural errands.
> >
> > My plan is to buy a conversion kit from
> Electro-Automotive
> > (http://www.electroauto.com/), with 9" motor and
> (24) 6V batteries (most
> > likely Trojan). Clutch and manual transmission
> will be used. I am
> > concerning if the pick-up will have enough power
> for 25-30 miles at
> > majority of highway speed. Is that sufficient?
> >
> > Regards,
> > -gs
> >
> > --
> > Greg Swager
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mar 29, 2006, at 6:24 PM, DM3 wrote:
---- DM3 wrote:
I have worked at my job for 23 years and have not been able to charge
there for the 13 I have had EVs. I have heard every excuse imagined
including "homeless people will use the plug to cook with".
My round trip to work is 58 miles (about 10 too many) so I am
contemplating using an old dc generator to charge both ways. Has
anyone
used a dc generator to charge a pack?
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Kohler/KohlerMenu1.htm
Model 1.5M5
Jimmy
I have to agree with the comments against using a generator for daily
commuting in your EV. If you need to make daily trips that are beyond
the range of your EV, then IMHO you're using the wrong vehicle. Get a
gas car, an EV with greater range, or a different commute. Use mass
transit. Or do something creative. But please don't use a generator.
They're noisier and pollute more than gas cars do. Plus you will be
reinforcing the idea that EVs are an unworkable idea to everyone who
sees that you need a generator to get to work.
Here's a creative idea, stolen from someone else on the list (possibly
Roland Wiench). If there's absolutely no way to get your company to
allow you to charge your EV, then park somewhere else that will. What
businesses are next door, or across the street, or a block away? If
it's too far to walk, then throw a bike or electric scooter in the back
of the E10 and ride to work from your EV parking place. Maybe you'll
be able to charge your scooter at your desk. And maybe you'll get in
on the alternative transportation program at your company, for walking
or biking to work!
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, Oregon, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:58 AM 3/30/2006, you wrote:
Carl Clifford wrote:
> Thanks Lee - now to take it a step further; my understanding is that
> internal resistance translates to voltage sag. Does the resistance
> in your connections also translate to voltage sag, or is this
> somehow exempt?
Resistance is resistance. Ohm's Law applies whether the resistance is
inside or outside of a battery.
It does depend on where in the circuit you are measuring the voltage. If
at the battery terminals then it is only the internal resistance of the
battery that affects the voltage sag. The sag at the load will be greater
due to external resistances between the battery and the load.
> I would think that if it did, we would see some design bias toward
> fewer, larger batteries, but I haven't noticed that except in the
> context of the expense and difficulty of making all of the connections.
In mass-produced EVs, you *do* see a strong bias toward a few large
batteries rather than many small ones. Golf carts, fork lifts, etc. all
use low voltage, high current systems, rarely higher than 72v. The lower
voltages are safer, there are fewer batteries, connections and parts to
go bad, and they tend to be cheaper for a given amount of power.
The recent batch of auto company built EVs were an exception, because
they were rank novices at EV design and tended not to pay any attention
to what existing EVs were already doing (it's called NIH or Not Invented
Here syndrome). They used high voltages (around 300v), and so were more
complicated, expensive, required far more stringen safety precautions,
and had many battery balancing problems.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Interesting statements at the end,
saying that for 30 years to come the most promising way to
go forward is efficiency improvements (how about higher MPG requirements)
and that continued support for Hydrogen could be explained
as an attemp to avoid confrontation with uncomfortable truths
(that the alternative energies like Hydrogen are not a solution today).
How long will it take for them to realize that there are EVs which
are efficient and cost-competitive and available today?
Helloooo - somebody listening?
I will continue to make my statement - by simply driving to work every day.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michaela Merz
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 7:31 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: OT: Hydrogen: The Emperor Is Naked
'The Emperor Is Naked' says Axel Friedrich, head of department for traffic
and noise at the German Federal Environmental Agency. 'There will be no
significant amount of hydrogen powered cars in the foreseeable future and
there will not be enough hydrogen to power those cars'.
He is backed by an upublished study that concludes that a hydrogen future
is hightly questionable. This study, paid for by German Federal
Environmental Agency, listed several problems with hydrogen, like low
efficieny, high prices and unsolved storage problems.
The German Ministry of Economics and Technology has already stopped most
of its hydrogen related support, the German 'Technology Review' magazine
writes.
http://www.heise.de/newsticker/meldung/71466
In German
mm.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michaela,
144V x 110A = 16kW
144V x 150A = 22kW
so an average of 19kW
This is about right, when I am at constant speed of about 60 MPH
at the freeway with my S10 longbed then it takes around 60-70 Amp
which translates to 19-22kW.
At 50 MPH your 16kW translates to 320Wh/mile
while the 22kW translates to 440Wh/mile
The average mileage of a light truck is 350Wh
so you are in the right range and if your
current at constant speed is around 120A then
you are right on target.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michaela Merz
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 6:50 AM
To: Greg Swager
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Newbie- Info on Compact Pick-up
Hey Greg:
I have almost exactly the same setup. Rural area and flat, and we too need
a pickup for ag use. See http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/693.html
Our S-10 longbed has 24 6 V floodies and it should be no problem to get 30
Miles at 50 mph (our truck uses approx. 110-150 A at 50 mph but it might
be still a little bit on the 'high' side).
You can contact me off list and I am happy to get into more detail.
Michaela
> I live in rural area and the roads are flat. The majority of maximum
> speed is 55 mph with 4 curves (25-45 mph). It'll be about 25-30 miles
> roundtrip. I'm planning to use S-10 or Ranger because I need a pick-up,
> not car, for agricultural errands.
>
> My plan is to buy a conversion kit from Electro-Automotive
> (http://www.electroauto.com/), with 9" motor and (24) 6V batteries (most
> likely Trojan). Clutch and manual transmission will be used. I am
> concerning if the pick-up will have enough power for 25-30 miles at
> majority of highway speed. Is that sufficient?
>
> Regards,
> -gs
>
> --
> Greg Swager
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bob,
Zeeuws-Vlaanderen is a part of Zeeland, which is a province in the
far south-west part of The Netherlands.
Looking at a map it seems as if the Dutch have stolen a slice of land from
Belgium, just across the Schelde river's connection to the sea, called
Westerschelde.
(The Oosterschelde has the famous movable dam along the sea coast)
http://www.vvvzeeuwsvlaanderen.nl/index.php?url=/plattegronden/&zoek=1
Switzerland is another country in Europe, very mountainous and beautiful.
It is neighboured by Germany, France, Italy and Austria.
Holland is another name for The Netherlands, though officially only
two provinces of The Netherlands are what used to be Holland in
previous centuries: Zuid-Holland and Noord-Holland.
Most "unlimited" Autobahns have two or three lanes each direction and
you better look in your mirror before changing lanes.
I did literally come aboard: two and a half years ago I moved from
The Netherlands to Silicon Valley, cruizin' the Santa Clara county roads
(paraphrasing Bruce's old sig here)
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Bob Rice
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 6:30 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: my (theoretical) setup, comments
Hi Pascal;
If it's anything like the USA ,speed limit signs are treated mearly as
suggestions, I would bet that they go 110-120 KM through the Tunnel and over
100 on the 80 stretch? A EV with a gearbox is nice as you can shift gears to
cruise at the motor's "Sweet spot" where the amps are lower for a given
speed. Most of us daily drivers arent smoking tires and doing flat out. I
used to commute on the Connecticut Turnpike at about 100-110 KmH.COULD do
120 or better flat out, but didn't usually, unless I was terrably
late<g>!This was in my '82 Rabbit, old Golf, 120 volt ,Raptur controller and
9 inch ADC motor. Curb weight 3100 lbs.Because I had a long, fast commute, I
really piled in the lead, as I had a 53 mile commute, but I could plug it in
at work, the RR, electric, nobody made as issue as there was a trainyard
full of electric trains there. What's a few amps among friends? Then off to
drive my OTHER electric:Amtrak's trains.Was fun, they EVen PAID me to do
it!<g>
Curious, WHERE is Zeeuws-Vlaanderen? Switzerland, Holland? Nice to see
you guyz on the Continent coming aboard, here! With what you pay for gas
over there, not surprised, and there would be MANY folks from Europe here.
But then I see movies of the Auto Bahn and rediculous speeds driven every
day, well over 100 MPH, not KPH. Guess if you want to see how fast your
shiny new Porsche will go, you try it out! Scary, as I see trucks on there
too and you KNOW they can't do 100MPH plus, but I imagine they TRY?
My two KmH worth
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: RE: my (theoretical) setup
> Hi Cor,
>
> thx for the info and yes on long stretches it's better
> to drive 140 km/h but I live in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
> where the speedlimit on the major roads is 80 km/h
> (49MPH)except for the one going to the
> westerscheldetunnel there the speedlimit is 100 km/h
> (62MPH).
>
> Since I only want to keep up with the traffic at the
> few trafficlights I encounter when driving to work or
> home, I see no need for having a EV that can drive
> very fast.
>
> Pascal
>
> --- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hi Pascal,
> >
> > Clutch and manual gears are good to keep decent
> > acceleration
> > speed (keep up with traffic at traffic light and in
> > the city)
> > as well as allowing a high maximum speed.
> >
> > When I was driving in The Netherlands, long
> > stretches were
> > close to 140 km/h (87 MPH) otherwise you were only
> > overtaken.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> > http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD#
> > 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Pascal
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:06 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: my (theoretical) setup
> >
> >
> > Thx for the link Bruce,
> >
> > I'll look at the site later today.
> >
> >
> > Thx for the info Lee,
> >
> > Just out of curiosity, what would you suggest which
> > battery's I should take instead of the T-145?
> >
> > Which is suitable for the Curtis controller first,
> > and
> > perhaps on a later date with a Zilla?
> >
> > Like I stated earlier, I haven't been around this
> > list
> > for a while, so I just picked up where I left this
> > list a few months ago.
> >
> > Hillclimbing btw. is not an issue here in the
> > netherlands, particulary the part where I live,
> > highest climb is almost 2 meters (and that is to
> > drive
> > over a bridge :-) )
> >
> > Pascal
> >
> >
> > Pascal wrote:
> > > 12 or 14 Trojan T-145 6v 260 AH battery's
> > > A Curtis controller (perhaps even a Zilla if my
> > bank
> > > account permits it :)
> > > DC/DC converter (for radio, cd and car lights
> > etc.)
> > > a 9.1" Advanced DC engine 24-120v design (up to
> > >
> > > This lot will be placed somewhere on a beetle
> > chassis
> > > minus the ICE and perhaps I'll drop the clutch
> > too.
> > >
> > > So let me hear what you think of it, even if it is
> > > totally crap, I need the info before I continue to
> > buy
> > > the stuff.
> >
> > 12-14 6v batteries is a 72-84v pack, good for about
> > 500a max. That's
> > really too low to bother with a 9" motor or Zilla
> > controller. I would
> > suggest using a 6.7" motor instead; a used 48v
> > Prestolite MTC-4001 for
> > example. You won't overheat this motor before the
> > pack
> > goes dead, so a
> > larger motor is mostly superfluous.
> >
> > Likewise for the controller. A Curtis 1221C would be
> > adequate, and a
> > 1231C should be plenty. The Zilla is a much nicer
> > controller, but only
> > justifiable if you expect to significantly upgrade
> > your systems
> > someday.
> >
> > I'd keep the clutch. With a lower-power system like
> > this, shifting
> > provides better accelleration and hillclimbing.
> > --
> > Ring the bells that still can ring
> > Forget the perfect offering
> > There is a crack in everything
> > That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> > leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bob,
Well, speeding here in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, which lies
in the Netherlands btw., is at your own risc, there
are several places where the police have placed
speedingcamera's. So if you drive faster than allowed
you'll get a speedingticket thru the mail a couple of
weeks later :( They are even placed in the tunnel
Gasprices are becoming higher and higher, the
oil-company's are saying that is because the price of
crude oil is higher, (But when you look at the profits
these company's make you'll have a different
viewpoint)
Like I said earlier, it would be nice if my car was
fast but it is not my prime objective. The body of the
bug will be removed because there are more holes in it
than a golf-course, and will be replaced by something
made from Urethane-foam and polyester.
Thanks for welcoming me and sharing your thoughts
Pascal
--- Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Pascal;
>
> If it's anything like the USA ,speed limit signs
> are treated mearly as
> suggestions, I would bet that they go 110-120 KM
> through the Tunnel and over
> 100 on the 80 stretch? A EV with a gearbox is nice
> as you can shift gears to
> cruise at the motor's "Sweet spot" where the amps
> are lower for a given
> speed. Most of us daily drivers arent smoking tires
> and doing flat out. I
> used to commute on the Connecticut Turnpike at about
> 100-110 KmH.COULD do
> 120 or better flat out, but didn't usually, unless I
> was terrably
> late<g>!This was in my '82 Rabbit, old Golf, 120
> volt ,Raptur controller and
> 9 inch ADC motor. Curb weight 3100 lbs.Because I had
> a long, fast commute, I
> really piled in the lead, as I had a 53 mile
> commute, but I could plug it in
> at work, the RR, electric, nobody made as issue as
> there was a trainyard
> full of electric trains there. What's a few amps
> among friends? Then off to
> drive my OTHER electric:Amtrak's trains.Was fun,
> they EVen PAID me to do
> it!<g>
>
> Curious, WHERE is Zeeuws-Vlaanderen? Switzerland,
> Holland? Nice to see
> you guyz on the Continent coming aboard, here! With
> what you pay for gas
> over there, not surprised, and there would be MANY
> folks from Europe here.
> But then I see movies of the Auto Bahn and
> rediculous speeds driven every
> day, well over 100 MPH, not KPH. Guess if you want
> to see how fast your
> shiny new Porsche will go, you try it out! Scary, as
> I see trucks on there
> too and you KNOW they can't do 100MPH plus, but I
> imagine they TRY?
>
> My two KmH worth
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pascal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 8:04 AM
> Subject: RE: my (theoretical) setup
>
>
> > Hi Cor,
> >
> > thx for the info and yes on long stretches it's
> better
> > to drive 140 km/h but I live in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
> > where the speedlimit on the major roads is 80 km/h
> > (49MPH)except for the one going to the
> > westerscheldetunnel there the speedlimit is 100
> km/h
> > (62MPH).
> >
> > Since I only want to keep up with the traffic at
> the
> > few trafficlights I encounter when driving to work
> or
> > home, I see no need for having a EV that can drive
> > very fast.
> >
> > Pascal
> >
> > --- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Pascal,
> > >
> > > Clutch and manual gears are good to keep decent
> > > acceleration
> > > speed (keep up with traffic at traffic light and
> in
> > > the city)
> > > as well as allowing a high maximum speed.
> > >
> > > When I was driving in The Netherlands, long
> > > stretches were
> > > close to 140 km/h (87 MPH) otherwise you were
> only
> > > overtaken.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Cor van de Water
> > > Systems Architect
> > > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> > > http://www.cvandewater.com
> > > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567
> FWD#
> > > 25925
> > > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Behalf Of Pascal
> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:06 PM
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Subject: Re: my (theoretical) setup
> > >
> > >
> > > Thx for the link Bruce,
> > >
> > > I'll look at the site later today.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thx for the info Lee,
> > >
> > > Just out of curiosity, what would you suggest
> which
> > > battery's I should take instead of the T-145?
> > >
> > > Which is suitable for the Curtis controller
> first,
> > > and
> > > perhaps on a later date with a Zilla?
> > >
> > > Like I stated earlier, I haven't been around
> this
> > > list
> > > for a while, so I just picked up where I left
> this
> > > list a few months ago.
> > >
> > > Hillclimbing btw. is not an issue here in the
> > > netherlands, particulary the part where I live,
> > > highest climb is almost 2 meters (and that is to
> > > drive
> > > over a bridge :-) )
> > >
> > > Pascal
> > >
> > >
> > > Pascal wrote:
> > > > 12 or 14 Trojan T-145 6v 260 AH battery's
> > > > A Curtis controller (perhaps even a Zilla if
> my
> > > bank
> > > > account permits it :)
> > > > DC/DC converter (for radio, cd and car lights
> > > etc.)
> > > > a 9.1" Advanced DC engine 24-120v design (up
> to
> > > >
> > > > This lot will be placed somewhere on a beetle
> > > chassis
> > > > minus the ICE and perhaps I'll drop the clutch
> > > too.
> > > >
> > > > So let me hear what you think of it, even if
> it is
> > > > totally crap, I need the info before I
> continue to
> > > buy
> > > > the stuff.
> > >
> > > 12-14 6v batteries is a 72-84v pack, good for
> about
> > > 500a max. That's
> > > really too low to bother with a 9" motor or
> Zilla
> > > controller. I would
> > > suggest using a 6.7" motor instead; a used 48v
> > > Prestolite MTC-4001 for
> > > example. You won't overheat this motor before
> the
> > > pack
> > > goes dead, so a
> > > larger motor is mostly superfluous.
> > >
> > > Likewise for the controller. A Curtis 1221C
> would be
> > > adequate, and a
> > > 1231C should be plenty. The Zilla is a much
> nicer
> > > controller, but only
> > > justifiable if you expect to significantly
> upgrade
> > > your systems
> > > someday.
> > >
> > > I'd keep the clutch. With a lower-power system
> like
> > > this, shifting
> > > provides better accelleration and hillclimbing.
> > > --
> > > Ring the bells that still can ring
> > > Forget the perfect offering
> > > There is a crack in everything
> > > That's how the light gets in -- Leonard
> Cohen
> > > --
> > > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> > > leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > > protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> <<< Since I only want to keep up with the traffic at
> the
> few trafficlights I encounter when driving to work
> or
> home, I see no need for having a EV that can drive
> very fast.
>
> Pascal>>>
>
> Yeah, but don't you want to *smoke 'em* off the stop
> light?! Even when an EV
> can't beat an ICE in the quarter, it can humiliate
> him off the line...
>
> You said you want a pack of T-145's, which prefer
> the lower limits of a Curtis,
> but even with an old Prestolite, you should have one
> nice zippy transit if you
> trade the steel bug body for something both lighter
> and "slipperier". Other
> than passing over a dike or two, or heading into
> some stiff winds, it doesn't
> sound like you will have huge current demands.
>
Thx Cowtown,
Just replied to Bob that the body of the bug will be
removed and replaced by an urethane-foam/polyester
body
and perhaps I'll follow the advice giving earlier of
using the 6.7" advanced DC engine, which should be
more than enough of powering this vehicle.
Pascal
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Cor,
I couldn't have said it better myself, it is nice to
see that someone in the US knows where The Netherlands
and Zeeuws-Vlaanderen are on the map. Oh I forgot,
your Dutch also :)
thx for explaining in better words than I have done.
Pascal
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> Zeeuws-Vlaanderen is a part of Zeeland, which is a
> province in the
> far south-west part of The Netherlands.
> Looking at a map it seems as if the Dutch have
> stolen a slice of land from
> Belgium, just across the Schelde river's connection
> to the sea, called
> Westerschelde.
> (The Oosterschelde has the famous movable dam along
> the sea coast)
>
http://www.vvvzeeuwsvlaanderen.nl/index.php?url=/plattegronden/&zoek=1
>
> Switzerland is another country in Europe, very
> mountainous and beautiful.
> It is neighboured by Germany, France, Italy and
> Austria.
>
> Holland is another name for The Netherlands, though
> officially only
> two provinces of The Netherlands are what used to be
> Holland in
> previous centuries: Zuid-Holland and Noord-Holland.
>
> Most "unlimited" Autobahns have two or three lanes
> each direction and
> you better look in your mirror before changing
> lanes.
>
> I did literally come aboard: two and a half years
> ago I moved from
> The Netherlands to Silicon Valley, cruizin' the
> Santa Clara county roads
> (paraphrasing Bruce's old sig here)
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD#
> 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Bob Rice
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 6:30 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: my (theoretical) setup, comments
>
>
> Hi Pascal;
>
> If it's anything like the USA ,speed limit signs
> are treated mearly as
> suggestions, I would bet that they go 110-120 KM
> through the Tunnel and over
> 100 on the 80 stretch? A EV with a gearbox is nice
> as you can shift gears to
> cruise at the motor's "Sweet spot" where the amps
> are lower for a given
> speed. Most of us daily drivers arent smoking tires
> and doing flat out. I
> used to commute on the Connecticut Turnpike at about
> 100-110 KmH.COULD do
> 120 or better flat out, but didn't usually, unless I
> was terrably
> late<g>!This was in my '82 Rabbit, old Golf, 120
> volt ,Raptur controller and
> 9 inch ADC motor. Curb weight 3100 lbs.Because I had
> a long, fast commute, I
> really piled in the lead, as I had a 53 mile
> commute, but I could plug it in
> at work, the RR, electric, nobody made as issue as
> there was a trainyard
> full of electric trains there. What's a few amps
> among friends? Then off to
> drive my OTHER electric:Amtrak's trains.Was fun,
> they EVen PAID me to do
> it!<g>
>
> Curious, WHERE is Zeeuws-Vlaanderen? Switzerland,
> Holland? Nice to see
> you guyz on the Continent coming aboard, here! With
> what you pay for gas
> over there, not surprised, and there would be MANY
> folks from Europe here.
> But then I see movies of the Auto Bahn and
> rediculous speeds driven every
> day, well over 100 MPH, not KPH. Guess if you want
> to see how fast your
> shiny new Porsche will go, you try it out! Scary, as
> I see trucks on there
> too and you KNOW they can't do 100MPH plus, but I
> imagine they TRY?
>
> My two KmH worth
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pascal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 8:04 AM
> Subject: RE: my (theoretical) setup
>
>
> > Hi Cor,
> >
> > thx for the info and yes on long stretches it's
> better
> > to drive 140 km/h but I live in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
> > where the speedlimit on the major roads is 80 km/h
> > (49MPH)except for the one going to the
> > westerscheldetunnel there the speedlimit is 100
> km/h
> > (62MPH).
> >
> > Since I only want to keep up with the traffic at
> the
> > few trafficlights I encounter when driving to work
> or
> > home, I see no need for having a EV that can drive
> > very fast.
> >
> > Pascal
> >
> > --- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Pascal,
> > >
> > > Clutch and manual gears are good to keep decent
> > > acceleration
> > > speed (keep up with traffic at traffic light and
> in
> > > the city)
> > > as well as allowing a high maximum speed.
> > >
> > > When I was driving in The Netherlands, long
> > > stretches were
> > > close to 140 km/h (87 MPH) otherwise you were
> only
> > > overtaken.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Cor van de Water
> > > Systems Architect
> > > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> > > http://www.cvandewater.com
> > > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567
> FWD#
> > > 25925
> > > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Behalf Of Pascal
> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:06 PM
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Subject: Re: my (theoretical) setup
> > >
> > >
> > > Thx for the link Bruce,
> > >
> > > I'll look at the site later today.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thx for the info Lee,
> > >
> > > Just out of curiosity, what would you suggest
> which
> > > battery's I should take instead of the T-145?
> > >
> > > Which is suitable for the Curtis controller
> first,
> > > and
> > > perhaps on a later date with a Zilla?
> > >
> > > Like I stated earlier, I haven't been around
> this
> > > list
> > > for a while, so I just picked up where I left
> this
> > > list a few months ago.
> > >
> > > Hillclimbing btw. is not an issue here in the
> > > netherlands, particulary the part where I live,
> > > highest climb is almost 2 meters (and that is to
> > > drive
> > > over a bridge :-) )
> > >
> > > Pascal
> > >
> > >
> > > Pascal wrote:
> > > > 12 or 14 Trojan T-145 6v 260 AH battery's
> > > > A Curtis controller (perhaps even a Zilla if
> my
> > > bank
> > > > account permits it :)
> > > > DC/DC converter (for radio, cd and car lights
> > > etc.)
> > > > a 9.1" Advanced DC engine 24-120v design (up
> to
> > > >
> > > > This lot will be placed somewhere on a beetle
> > > chassis
> > > > minus the ICE and perhaps I'll drop the clutch
> > > too.
> > > >
> > > > So let me hear what you think of it, even if
> it is
> > > > totally crap, I need the info before I
> continue to
> > > buy
> > > > the stuff.
> > >
> > > 12-14 6v batteries is a 72-84v pack, good for
> about
> > > 500a max. That's
> > > really too low to bother with a 9" motor or
> Zilla
> > > controller. I would
> > > suggest using a 6.7" motor instead; a used 48v
> > > Prestolite MTC-4001 for
> > > example. You won't overheat this motor before
> the
> > > pack
> > > goes dead, so a
> > > larger motor is mostly superfluous.
> > >
> > > Likewise for the controller. A Curtis 1221C
> would be
> > > adequate, and a
> > > 1231C should be plenty. The Zilla is a much
> nicer
> > > controller, but only
> > > justifiable if you expect to significantly
> upgrade
> > > your systems
> > > someday.
> > >
> > > I'd keep the clutch. With a lower-power system
> like
> > > this, shifting
> > > provides better accelleration and hillclimbing.
> > > --
> > > Ring the bells that still can ring
> > > Forget the perfect offering
> > > There is a crack in everything
> > > That's how the light gets in -- Leonard
> Cohen
> > > --
> > > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> > > leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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>
>
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