EV Digest 5524
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Hi voltage DC-DC problem
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Monaco EV
by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Rabbit burnout?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Reminder: Mind your Letter Capitalization
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Monaco EV
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Elcar available
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Hi voltage DC-DC problem
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) 外国語 was Re: Reminder: Mind your Letter Capitalization
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Limiting Current in DC setup
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Lee's regs in action
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Lee's regs in action
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: was Edison Batteries - using 2 kinds of battery pack for their
combined characteristics
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Range Extension
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: My EV is down
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Range Extension
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Good article in Popular Mechanics.
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Range Extension
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Range Extension
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: EV Copyright Infringement running rampant
by "OhNoJoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Hi voltage DC-DC problem
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: NEDRA Power of DC Coming Up Sunday June 4
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Trojan T-1275 Batteries
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) S10 ABS codes
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: EV Copyright Infringer strikes again
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: AC vs. DC - hopefully ending (for now...)
by Aaron NMLUG-EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) copyright infringement
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) RE: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
by "EVDave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: S10 ABS codes
by "EVDave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) re: range extension
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
30) RE: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
by "EVDave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Use a PFC charger in 12 volt mode- The PFC will handle the pack voltage. May
have to build a little votage regulation device but is would work great. This
way you get an on board charge the swap the pack voltage to A/C input and
recharge the pack. Got the idea from Rich recent Hybrid extension post.
Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I need some advice and I know you guys
have the answer (or answers.) I want to run a high voltage
pack, 360 volts. But I haven't seen a dc-dc that is rated for this voltage. Is
there a simple way
to step down the voltage to a range that will allow me to use a lower voltage
dc-dc? Or is that
just another dc-dc anyway?
I already have a Zilla and a 9" ADC, so going AC is not an option.
Thanks
Dave Cover
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In Australia we have a science TV show called "Beyond Tomorrow" > It
featured an EV made in Monaco. It is a low sports car and uses Li ion
battery. Claimed range was 300km. Price was more than $.5Mil. It shows that
all that we would like can be done if the cheque book is big enough. The
cost per cycle of running this car is going to be more than juicing a
conventional car IMO. David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Ciciora" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: Rabbit burnout?
> I've got the last 1/2 of it, and most, if not all of
> the zombie burnouts. You won, hands down! Let me try
> to figure out how to get it to you. I may just have
> to mail you a CD or something...
>
> - Steven Ciciora
>
Hi Steve;
Great! Be glad to pay what it takes, or better yet I'll swap ya a tape of
the rest of the proccedings that I shot.
Seeya
Bob
> --- Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hi EVerybody at Joliet;
> >
> > Silly question, but did anybody get my breakstand
> > that I outburned
> > Zombie. Like a vid. Yeah! I NEVER thought I was
> > gunna do THAT well, so I
> > didn't hand my camera off to anybody to take THE
> > shot. All this tire smokin'
> > fun gave new meaning to having a level playing field
> > to quote an old
> > saying. In that the Rabbit DIDN'T go zip off
> > sideways as the Zombie tried to
> > do, every time Tim nailed it! My guess is that I
> > didn't spin BOTH front
> > tires at once so one held things in line , as the
> > other melted. I have seen
> > the still shots, they are fun, but a movie would be
> > a fitting epatach.I have
> > a lot of vids that afternoon, now to put them in a
> > useful format for power
> > of DC.
> >
> > Seeya at "DC"
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess most of us would survive a French posting.....
(If need be, consult Altavista's Babelfish)
Cor.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of nikki
[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Cc:
Subject: Re: Reminder: Mind your Letter Capitalization
Sent: 5/23/2006 2:16 PM
Importance: Normal
Peut-être nous devrions faire quelqu'un faisons un poteau en français
pour voir comment ils survivraient?!?!?
;)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: Monaco EV
>
>
> In Australia we have a science TV show called "Beyond Tomorrow" > It
> featured an EV made in Monaco. It is a low sports car and uses Li ion
> battery. Claimed range was 300km. Price was more than $.5Mil. It shows
that
> all that we would like can be done if the cheque book is big enough. The
> cost per cycle of running this car is going to be more than juicing a
> conventional car IMO. David
>
Musta been the Fetish? A bit pricy for Joe Sixchip, but Bill Gates could
have one for each foot, with his deep pockets. EVen a bit high for Jay
Leno?But if HE bought one you know he'd talk about it on his TV Pogram, for
sure!
As for charging it, it may take a couple of bux each night as there is no
free lunch, ya gotta put the KWH back that it is capable of using. I would
guess that a good stout 240 50 amp service in most USA homes would keep
Fetish nice and juicy?Or IF it has a real Rudman-eaque charger, 100 or
better yet 200 amp service would do just fine.
My two ohm's worth
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A member of the DEVC is offering his 1975 Zagato (Elcar). This is a tiny
Italian-made, purpose-built electric car with a 48 volt system and a low
power DC motor. Top speed is claimed as 25mph and range as 40mi.
Functionally the Zagato is/was similar to a Citicar, but the implementation
was rather different. The body is fiberglas, IIRC. They are pretty scarce
now.
The car has been stored for 29 years and has only 115 miles on the odometer.
The owner has the original keys, manuals, and charger. The paint is claimed
to be excellent, the headliner sags a bit, and the hydraulic fluid has
leaked from the brake system so it should not be considered driveable. The
car is located in Erie, Colorado.
He's asking $2,000.
For more information DO NOT REPLY to this message, as the seller will NOT
receive it. Instead, contact the owner directly. His email address is
Bill.Hendrix and is located at the domain DometicUSA dot com.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are these AGM?s, the end of charge voltage will be 443V, may need to
switch off the input to the dc-dc for the first few miles and use a
small aux battery.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I guess most of us would survive a French posting.....
>
> (If need be, consult Altavista's Babelfish)
>
> Cor.
>
しかし私達は日本語を扱うでしようか。
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Having once had a 92 S-10 with 9" ADC motor and various DCP controllers
and batteries....
I'd agree that your throttle settings may need adjusting. About 35 mph
up a hill in 2nd gear should make that yellow WOT light come on. Try
playing with higher gear and speed combinations as well.
Bottom line is that the DCP600 is too small for an S-10... it should do
better than what you are getting (unless it was tuned more like a DCP450
to increase its chance of survival?), but will never be much more than
lethargic.
If you have the money, I'd look a new controller as the first upgrade
(Zilla time). Then come AGM batteries. If you spring for LiIons, at that
point you might have long enough run times to need to look at a bigger
(or dual) motors.
PS your comment "the DCP only has an adjustment for RPM limit" is
confusing... do check the manual as the RPM limit is set by DIP
switches, while the throttle adjustment is a knob.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks Roger,
"What is the pack voltage sagging to while you are drawing 150-200A?"
At mid to full charge the 144 V pack reads 137-140 V at 150 A
Near the end of driving, pack voltage would be 129 V 150-200 Amps (i.e. end
of range and time to go home)
"When accelerating at lower speeds, do the DCP's LEDs indicate wide open
throttle/current limit?"
I have never seen yellow light indicating wide open throttle. I am meaning
to find the resistor leads to see their range. The yellow LED is
impossible to see in daylight.
"What is the maximum current you can ever see on the meter when
accelerating from a stop? Are you sure your controller current limit is not
turned down?"
Approx. 400 Amps at start or gear shifting on battery amperage side. I
notice the DCP only has an adjustment for RPM limit. However, the RPM
limiter was disabled by the manufacturer when he repaired this particular
unit.
SO-----------------------
If the batteries are the limiting factor, am I realizing the argument for
Advanced PbAcid batteries over traditional flooded? Do others not have
such a problem with their Trojan's being low performance? If you have a
Trojan pack in a truck, which controller and motor model performs well for
you?
However, it would seem that the whole system is designed for a slightly
lighter and smaller vehicle than a 4000 lb pickup truck, so each component
would need up-sizing.
Thanks, Ben Fratto
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/731
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could you assemble a pack that has mismatched SOC levels and report
back how well and how long it takes to get back into balance?
I like Lee's idea when I experiemented with it too. Glad to hear it
works for you.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Well, I'm pretty much convinced that the Lee Hart battery regulator
is a
> good thing. While building the 50 for my pack, I built 4 more for my
> solar shed. It's got a pair of 100ah AGMs and a pair of 80ah AGMs
set up
> for 24 volts at 180ah.
>
> Before the regs the voltage on the 80ah batteries would be different by
> .5 volts or more. As in 12.9 and 12.4 under load. Worse for the 100ah
> batteries. So I put the regs on and let the solar system charge away.
>
> For the first week you could see that the higher batts would have the
> glow of regs. After about a month or so I checked voltages this evening:
>
> The 80ah batteries under load are within .05 volts of each other. As in
> 12.85 and 12.90. The 100ah batteries are within .01 volts of each other.
>
> Lee, the regs seem to work. I have thought about writing this up for
> Home Power or something under the title of "Lee's amazing regs". People
> should hear about this; a $1.00 regulator is kind of neat.
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Lee,
Lee Hart writes:
> I published the version for 6v batteries a year or so ago.
> Basically, I suggested the same parts (two 6.2v zener diodes),
> but with *two* #PR2 lamps. Each lamp has a zener in series.
> This makes two parallel paths, so it shunts twice the current
> -- 1 amp max instead of 0.5 amp max. This is more appropriate
> for >100 amphour batteries.
6.2v or 6.8v zeners? I assumed you'd need to pick a figure close to, but above,
the full charge voltage (genuinely curious, in the hope of learning something).
Conversely, I was thinking for 8 volters that a 9.1V zener would be about
right, but I note from the archives that you've gone with 2x 5.1V in the past.
Does the lamp characteristics make this much of a muchness, or is there a
reason to go with the higher (or a pair?) of zeners?
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi
I'd like to hear how you think this could work... Pros, Cons?
This sounds like a promising setup... using 2 kinds of battery for
their combined characteristics... Long life, low weight and high
current, high weight;
1. A pack of Nimh, Lion, or lead acid batteries of maby 50ah(or
less?)
for high current operation.
a) kept alittle under full charge to allow for regen.
b) less voltage than the NiFe pack.
c) use the lightest battery you can afford.
d) could cost less because of the reduced ah capacity.
e) can bleed regen charge to the NiFe pack.
2. A pack of large ah (150-200ah) NiFe batteries that
can dump charge the high current pack like the
electric lawnmower man does.
a) set up to charge the high current pack.
b) is charged at the charge station.
c) continuosly charges the high current pack and
provides the maintenance current for higher speeds.
d) can be discharged very deep due to the stability of NiFe.
e) will last very long which is good for ev's
f) build current limiting on pack for protection
Thanks
T
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but if you don't want to go
the rental car route, I think your best option wopuld be a pusher trailer.
With the pusher:
1) you don't have to worry about running you DC drive system for extended
periods of time.
2) You don't have the inherent losses of converting mechanical energy to
electric and then back to mechanical.
3) It's cheaper than guying the motor and adding a generator head.
4) It produces much less pollution than an off the shelf generator.
5) Much better fuel economy than a generator trailer.
6) Don't have to worry about a trailer full of batteries sitting around
not being used.
7) Probably the simplest solution to implement.
All you need to do is cut the back end of an old VW or the front end of a
FWD car. Lock the tranny in 4th or 5th. Add an electric actuator for the
clutch. Use the EV motor to get up to speed and release the clutch, bump
starting the ICE and away you go. You can either control the ICEs
throttle remotely, or find a good position that works on the highway and
use the EV motor to help out on hills.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 04:30 PM 24/05/06 -0700, you wrote:
I may have determined what is wrong.
I need to ask what an ohm meter would read on the motor loop as you
slowly rotate the armature.
I get around 4-10 ohms except in one spot, the spot where the zilla
shuts down if I creep fwd. At that point it reads .4 ohms and the leads
read .3 by themselfs. The motor loop is still isolated from the body.
Does this sound like a shorted armature winding? will the zilla shut
down on this?
Ooohh dear, (music of the funeral march) - yes, the Zilla will shut down on
this. When you say the motor loop is still isolated from the body, as in
that the motor wiring has no short to motor frame? Odd, I would have
expected a short onto the rotor.
Is there any scraping sounds? The commutator riser or an wire of the
commutator may have a "woof" in it where there is a high spot and be
shorting to an internal wire.
Have you got the brush covering band off yet? if so you may be able to see
a problem around the commutator. Lack of short to frame is a very good
sign. Try and get the brush band off, get some digital pics (you may be
able to reach in and get some pics where you can't see otherwise) and get
them online if there seems to be anything.
Hoope this helps
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> All you need to do is cut the back end of an old VW or the front end of a
> FWD car. Lock the tranny in 4th or 5th. Add an electric actuator for the
> clutch. Use the EV motor to get up to speed and release the clutch, bump
> starting the ICE and away you go. You can either control the ICEs
> throttle remotely, or find a good position that works on the highway and
> use the EV motor to help out on hills.
Now that I think about it, it might be better to use a pusher with an
automatic tranny, cruise control and a remote start feature. Get up to
speed, set the cruise control, start the ICE, have an actuator to switch
from neutral to drive. Let the cruise control and auto tranny kee you at
your desired speed.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet or not, but the May issue of
popular mechanics has a good article on Biofuels as well as EVs.
It actually does a pretty fair review on electric vehicles and mentions
the growing demand for plug in hybrids. It mentions that even when EVs
are powered by coal, they only produce about 10% of the polution as ICEs
do.
On the plus side it states that EVs "require no warm up, run almost
silently, and have excellent performance up to the limit of their
range...and are cheap to refuel". The down side is "limited range...and
slow charging". The main hold ups are the need for cheaper, longer
lasting batteries and reduced production costs.
Over all a pretty fair evaluation.
For those you you that care, it also discusses the various biofuels and
what it would take to produce them. For example, in order to produce
enough methanol to eliminate our need for gasoline, it would require 675
million acres of corn, or 71% of the USAs total farm land.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter wrote:
Now that I think about it, it might be better to use a pusher with an
automatic tranny, cruise control and a remote start feature. Get up to
speed, set the cruise control, start the ICE, have an actuator to switch
from neutral to drive. Let the cruise control and auto tranny kee you at
your desired speed.
Yes, that is what I did and it works great. So far I only have about
160 miles of testing on mine, but it does look like the solution at
least for some of us. It is in the Album at:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/753
Since it is an automatic, it does push to some extent even at
idle. The side affect of this is that towing it at idle uses less
power from the EV than driving without the pusher attached at
all. The cruise control will engage down to 25 MPH, so it can even
be uses on parkways and such. I do want to add a generator to the
engine to provide at least 15 Amp charging current to the EV to allow
the batteries to charge while pushing and to cover the power
requirements for the heater and the yet to be installed air
conditioner. I have an old PowerMite style generator that I think I
can get to do the job, as this one has a separately controlled field
circuit. Right now I am using a 600 Watt inverter to power the 120
VAC charger on the EV, but the output is only about 2 Amps.
I have been trying to come up with a method to directly control the
throttle on the pusher engine from the EV. This would allow the
pusher to cover 100% of the power requirements and prevent draining
the EVs batteries in extended stop and go traffic. I had intended to
use the pusher to bring my EV from Kansas City to Joliet for the
recent EVents, but at the last minute I decided not to be that
brave. Without the generator I am sure it would not have made it, as
there were several areas of 35 mile construction zones with traffic
surging from 30 to 70 MPH, not a good match for cruise control.
Does anyone have any great ideas for a throttle-by-wire
system? Right now I am pursing the rather odd solution of a
motorcycle twist grip throttle mounted on the parking brake
handle. That would be linked to a custom throttle cable that runs
back the hitch area and can be swung back to overlap the front of the
trailer tongue. A second cable would run from the throttle linkage
on the engine up to the tongue and the two would be coupled when the
pusher is attached. So far, I have the twist grip installed, and
that really did come out kind of cool, but I haven't had the cables
made up yet. Someone suggested I look at the air-throttles used on
buses, but so far I haven't been able to turn up anything on the
'Net. An all electric solution would certainly be preferred, but so
far that has eluded me. I tried direct controlling another cruise
servo but the response time was much too slow.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:34 AM 25/05/06 -0500, Mike Chancey wrote:
Does anyone have any great ideas for a throttle-by-wire system? <snip> An
all electric solution would certainly be preferred, but so far that has
eluded me. I tried direct controlling another cruise servo but the
response time was much too slow.
G'day Mike, and all
We are service agents here for Linak (brand) actuators. Although they are
pretty much all 24VDC, they have models with stroke at speeds up to
30mm/second (1-1/4" per second). More normal is 20mm/sec (3/4" per second)
and slower. They have positionable models, too. A non-positionable model
could be used in an increase/decrease arrangement from a joystick arm/etc
switch - we have a remote control job we are doing for a local dredger on a
diesel-driven pump that we are using this method for. They are not overly
cheap, but they are pretty good quality.
Airconditioning of the building variety often uses damper controls that are
positionable - but I'm thinking they'd be too slow, in the order of 15
second+ for 90 degrees, but it'd depend on the cable travel movement.
Hope this helps
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chip,
I would not only contact EBay and report the fellow. I would send a C&D
letter to EBay also.
There should be a lawyer out there in DC who could help with this for no
cost. What about that DC lawyer with the E-10 I've seen on the TV a few
times? Is he part of the group.
Additionally, the folks here could complain in mass. It only takes a few
minutes once there is a little "how to" posted.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted C. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 7:58 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV Copyright Infringement running rampant
You have the copyright. Your brother holding the hub/flywheel can prove it.
I would report him to Ebay and send him the cease and decease "smack down"
letter. It may not be written by a lawyer. But written well enough it could
give judge Judy a field day on him. He is probably the same guy who takes
your idea and goes around the office saying "Look at the great idea I came
up with."
I do have to agree with the statement made that ever though is a crappy
thing to do. It is promoting EVs and we sure could use more of that. I would
say maybe trying to work out a deal where you get a cut of the BIG money. I
just don't think he is going to be retiring off this and that would be a
waste of time. Plus I just won't trust the guy anyway.
I found these two example letters.
( http://www.webmastertechniques.com/Insight/cease.html )
or this ( http://www.rightsforartists.com/examcease.html )
What ever you do. Add that copyright to your page as soon as possible. I
don't know if it is possible to date it back to when you made it. I would
and why not? I would think you could since you are the creator of the work
and don't need a copyright notice to have the copyright. Maybe come up with
some terms for the copyright like you can share it as long as you don't
charge money for it kind of thing.
Ted
Olympia, WA
N47 02.743 W122 53.772
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: EV Copyright Infringement running rampant
> Hey guys,
>
> I just checked the PDF file that Dan Hartman sent me and sure enough this
> guy stole the complete "Build an EV" section just as it appears on the
> EVA/DC website including all my illustrations, pictures (including my
> brother in-law holding the hub/flywheel assembly for the motor) and all
> the text I wrote word for word.
>
> And he's selling it on Ebay for $4.99
>
> Then he has the audacity to say in the opening page in big Red and Black
> letters:
>
> "Copyright Notice
> This File is Protected By Copyright 2000-20006
> No Part May Be Reproduced
> No Part May Be Resold
> No Part May Be Given Away or Transferred
> Violators Will Be Prosecuted
> This File is Encoded With Your Email Address AND Postal Address"
>
> This is the part I can't believe. Someone steals your stuff and then puts
> up a notice threatening to prosecute people for the stuff he stole.
> Unbelievable.
>
> I don't mind people using the information. That's why its on the EVA/DC
> website for anyone to use so we can get more EVs on the road. But taking
> it and trying to call it your own and profiting from it is going over the
> top.
>
> Dan sent me all the info to write a complaint to Ebay so I'm going to
> report him.
>
> Chip Gribben
> EVA/DC Webmaster
> http://www.evadc.org
>
> NEDRA Webmaster
> http://www.nedra.com
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> 300V Vicor dc/dc units take 200-400Vdc inputs and other EV-ers have
> used them.
>
Actually, I did pick up a Vicor to play with but wasn't sure if it would do the
job. Occasionally
I've seen some Vicors rated for 375 volt input, but these are rare and pricey.
My pack will be
made up of NiCad cells, but I won't be running all 300 of them right away. I
hope to get the car
on the road with close to 200 to start, and then add more cells as I build the
boxes.
I have a 24 volt main contactor and bought a Vicor 300v-24v to power it. But
this would leave me
in a position where a full pack would be too much for the dc-dc and I couldn't
close my main
contactor. Doh!
I believe that some of the Vicors have the ability to adjust the output
voltage, has anyone bumped
the 12 volt output of a Vicor up to 13-14 volts?
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI all,
Anyone be in Saturday night and be up for Dinner ?
Hope to stay at the Microtel Hotel on RT40.
Bob Salem
PS Dave Erb and will be with me.
> We're getting fired up for the 6th Annual NEDRA Power of DC drag race
> June 4 at Mason Dixon Dragway in Hagerstown, Maryland. Racing starts
> at 12:00 noon and ends about 5:00
>
> Racers so far include:
>
> 1) Bob Salem and Dave Erb with Bob's electric Rabbit Truck
> 2) Matt Graham's 240SX
> 3) Shawn Waggoner's Orange Crush and another bike
> 4) Darin Gilbert's Pirahna Motorcycle
> 5) Shawn Lawless will be bringing the Electropolitan and maybe
> another racing vehicle.
> 6) West Virginia University with their Formula One electric racer
> 7) My electric Ford Escort
> 8) Charlie Garlow's electric S-10 truck
> 9) Chris Zak's electric Prizm
> 10) Joeseph Lado's Destiny 2000 electric Fiero
> 11) Bryan Murtha's electric Rav-4
> 12) Great Mills High School electric MR-2
> 13) Great Mill High School electric dragster
> 14) Central Shenendoah Valley Regional Governor's School electric 240-Z
> 15) Central Shenendoah Valley Regional Governor's School electric
> Porsche
> 16) Valerie Myer's Corbin Sparrow
> 17) Aggravated Battery dragster is probable, but we are not sure.
> 18) Bob Rice's Rabbit EV will be there in spirit. But Bob will
> definitly be there.
>
> 2006 Power of DC Sponsors:
>
> Baltimore Clean Cities Campaign
> Battery Warehouse
> Cafe Electric
> Electric Vehicle Association of Washington DC
> KTA Services
> Hi-Torque Electric
> Manzanita Micro
> Maryland Energy Administration
> Megawatt Motorworks
> QuickCable
> Suncoast Electric Vehicle Outfitters
> Virginia Solar Council
>
> For the race Jim Husted of Hi-Torque Electric built a beautiful motor
> that will be raffled off among the registered racers.
>
> We will have the EVA/DC Solar Slot Car Track set up for the kids.
>
> Besides the out of town racers among those coming out to visit will
> be Bob Rice, Mark Hanson, Peter Echoff (sp?) and Dave Stensland. If I
> left anyone out just let me know.
>
> Everyone is welcome to come out and race or check things out.
>
> We'll do another last minute announcement shortly before the race.
>
> See Ya June 4th!
>
> Chip Gribben
> NEDRA Power of DC
> http://www.powerofdc.com
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While checking the weight of T-145s on the Trojan website I noticed a
battery I had not seen before, the T-1275, listed with the golf-cart
batteries. It is shown as 12 Volt, 150 AH at the 20 hour rate, and
weights 82 pounds. They look like another alternative for smaller
EVs trying to raise their pack voltage without overloading the
chassis. My back hurts just looking at them, but I was wondering, is
anyone using them in an EV?
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok dug up the way to get abs codes out of a S10. (but lost the original
email :). This page tells you how to read the codes
http://www.s10blazers.com/service_engine_soon.htm and this page has the
detail on what they mean http://www.s10blazers.com/abs_codes.htm (start on
the second page then read the first will make more sense that way.) if you
dump the codes and send them back I can give you a better idea of how much
work / $$$ it will be to repair. (can be as easy as a loose connecton to the
tone sensors to needing a entire modulator pump)
Hope this helps,
Wire
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I really have a hard time understanding why anyone is bothered by this.
Obviously if you have posted some knowledge free on the internet where
anyone in the world can download and use it, you are trying to get the word
out. What do you care if someone has to pay $5 to read it? Of course, this
thread was barely ever on topic and here I go making things worse. I
certainly wouldn't invest any heartburn in this guy if it happened to me.
He probably has to steal people's mail on the side just to put food on the
table :-)
damon
From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: EV Copyright Infringer strikes again
Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 18:22:58 -0400
Well, the same guy who stole my "Build an EV" plans from the EVA/DC
website has struck again.
This time he is selling Jr Solar Sprint Plans and is using a different
user name, "Wonderful_Plans", which he has been using off and on for about
a year I've been told. After he gets nabbed he uses a different user name.
I checked out his recent listing on Ebay and the layout and text is
exactly the same as the one for my ripped off plans except he just put
"How To Build A Solar Electric Model Car" in place of "How to Build A
Electric Car".
http://cgi.ebay.com/How-To-Build-A-Solar-Electric-Model-Car_W0QQitemZ95\
21984174QQcategoryZ47103QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Be careful if you've published plans on the internet, specifically
electric powered vehicles. You could be next. And if these are your plans
I thought I would let you know.
Chip Gribben
EVA/DC
http://www.evadc.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2006-05-23 at 18:41 -0700, Roger Stockton wrote:
> Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>
> So, perhaps we need to temper the wide RPM range allowing the shift-free
> benefit with the caveat that this is a theoretical benefit that may not
> realisable in practice unless one has the ability to configure the car
> with the optimum fixed reduction ratio.
yes, but a higher RPM system does not need as strong a drivetrain.
You won't need to design to handle the high torque of
a lower top-RPM DC system driving a tall fixed-gear on starts.
I think most of us agree that for a general-purpose,
all-around, designed from the ground up as electric vehicle,
AC has a lot of advantages.
With production volume, cost should come down.
In the real world, DC is still more practical for
most conversions.
Many people on this list prefer the torquey DC-starts
to the AC features.
aaron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On one side, EV hobbyists want to make the information available to the
public.
However, you also want to protect your copyright to information.
I propose publishing your information in self contained Adobe Reader files
that are locked. When locked, it is impossible to copy and past the text
or pictures out of the Adobe file. The best one can do is copy it as .jpg
or print it out then scan it with OCR which would be time consuming. So,
this would at least deter the person from stealing the information if the
original copyright owners signature was on it.
So, now, the only disadvantage is having to purchase Adobe Acrobat so that
you can generate the secure file.
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, ill have to find a website that has how to read the codes
Db
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Peter Shabino
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
That light means the controler for the anti-lock breaks detected an
error.
There should be a way to read the errors out (usualy jumper wire a to b
and
count the number of blinks of the abs light). From what I know of abs
systems they are usualy self contained and should work with no issues on
a
EV. But everyone is unique.
Later,
Wire
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
>Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 19:10:28 +0000
>
>Hi all
>
>I recently noticed the previous owner of my E10 disconnected the
>forward
>wiring clip/harness from my power brake pump assembly. I re-connected
it
>and found that the only thing it does is makes my ANTI-LOCK brake light
>come on, on the dashboard.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with this and what the problem might
>be?
>Is there something wrong with my anti-lock brakes? should my vehicle
even
>have antilock brakes? is it an EV problem? or do you think my regular
>mechanic could fix it?
>
>Dave Banas
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Awesome... Thank you
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Peter Shabino
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 9:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: S10 ABS codes
Ok dug up the way to get abs codes out of a S10. (but lost the original
email :). This page tells you how to read the codes
http://www.s10blazers.com/service_engine_soon.htm and this page has the
detail on what they mean http://www.s10blazers.com/abs_codes.htm (start
on
the second page then read the first will make more sense that way.) if
you
dump the codes and send them back I can give you a better idea of how
much
work / $$$ it will be to repair. (can be as easy as a loose connecton to
the
tone sensors to needing a entire modulator pump)
Hope this helps,
Wire
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the info about trailering batteries and engine.
1) I definitely don't want to make more pollution with the generator and
2) The batteries on trailer if kept in active use on a solar array is a
nearly perfect idea I hadn't thought of.
I was looking 2 years down the road anyway, so by then, maybe Plug in
Hybrids will be a cost effective reality.
Though Olaf isn't on this site, I apologize about the acusation of selling
the batteries. I should have given him the benefit of the doubt.
156 miles is good, but I hope EV hobbyists realize, it won't help the EV
industry to sell a car claiming 156 miles only for the consumer to discover
he should not have driven it faster that 45 mph average to attain that
range.
Thanks, Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea, ive figured out with the cable disconnected, I don't have
antilock.... My mechanic HATED my car until I gave it to him to inspect
it the first time, then he calls me up about charging it, b/c he took
everyone for rides in it.... (weve been friends for years).... He
marvels at how much thought went into it when it was built.....
Im guessing the brakes were there before the conversion.... So Im
guessing the code thing might work well.... My mechanic just said leave
it disconnected, works fine, and with all that weight from the
batteries, you don't have to worry about the tires locking
up...hehehe....
Thanks for the input....
Db
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 12:19 AM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: RE: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
Dave,
Find a slippery location (example: metal cover on the road) drive slow
(!) and brake hard on it. The result will be an indication if your
anti-lock brakes work (especially when you are making a slight turn
while braking)
I presume that the brakes were either standard or optional
on the S10 you have, before the conversion.
So your mechanic should be able to assess and determine
the problem with the brakes apart from it being an EV.
Whether he wants to touch the car depends on the (mis)information he has
received and how you present it to him.
Regards,
Cor.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Cc:
Subject: Solectria S-10 Anti-Lock Brakes
Sent: 5/24/2006 12:10 PM
Importance: Normal
Hi all
I recently noticed the previous owner of my E10 disconnected the forward
wiring clip/harness from my power brake pump assembly. I re-connected
it and found that the only thing it does is makes my ANTI-LOCK brake
light come on, on the dashboard.
Does anyone have any experience with this and what the problem might be?
Is there something wrong with my anti-lock brakes? should my vehicle
even have antilock brakes? is it an EV problem? or do you think my
regular mechanic could fix it?
Dave Banas
--- End Message ---
