EV Digest 5689
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Blue Meanie specs ( Re: Tesla Motors unveiled (my comments))
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Prizm data point
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Want to build a sporty EV
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Another Alltrax let's the smoke out
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Replacing motor can with lighter material
by john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Details of the SmartEV trial (in UK)
by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Prizm data point
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Replacing motor can with lighter material
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Upgrading to a higher voltage
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Replacing motor can with lighter material
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Unexpected first charge with PFC-20
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Tesla Motors mentioned on Coast to Coast AM
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Replacement resistor for Albright/Curtis contactor.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Replacement resistor for Albright/Curtis contactor.
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Details of the SmartEV trial (in UK)
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Details of the SmartEV trial (in UK)
by "Lawrie, Robin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Tesla Motors mentioned on Coast to Coast AM
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Car Insurance in PA
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Tesla Motors mentioned on Coast to Coast AM
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) More Tesla PR - USAToday.com
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Another Alltrax let's the smoke out
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Replacing motor can with lighter material
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
John,
What is the range on Blue Meanie? How has it changed over the lifespan of
the batteries? What %DOD do you usually run and how long do your AGMs
last? I was thinking of upgrading my 114V pack of T-105s in a few years :)
Adrian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Took the Prizm out on a longer run this evening; 25 miles. This is about
the max distance I like to take the car on a charge regardless of
battery condition.
(52ah Hawker AGM battery pack, 3 years old, 6000+ miles on it, 300 volts
nominal)
The pack was running about 295 volts at 150amp draw at start, and by the
time I was home I was pulling about 275 volts at 100amps at 24ah down.
Given that a dead pack would be about 262 volts at 52a draw (10.66 volts
at C discharge rate) I think it's still doing pretty well.
Alex is putting a lot of miles on the car in short order. Will drop the
pack in September for a review. So far though the zener regs seem to be
keeping it alive.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Ray Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Big questions. How to get more range without giving up performance.
>
That's usually controlled by the nut behind the wheel. ;^)
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well for the second time my Alltrax controller let the smoke out. It should
still be under warranty so I will be getting ahold of Alltrax again, but I
wonder why it did it. I never have gotten around to putting in my main
contactor so I know it is not voltage spikes. I just use one of those
switches with a the big red plastic key. My precharge circuit consists of a
momentary switch and a 6 ohm resistor that I engage until the green LED
comes on. The only other thing that I can think of is that I am running a
54 volt nominal pack on a 48 volt controller, but everything stays within
the controllers rated values. The controller is disconnected during
charging as the pack can go as high as 75 volts, and a fully charged pack
usually settles down to around 58 or 59 volts. The controller has built in
overvoltage protection which kicks in at 60 volts.
Has anyone else had let the smoke out of their Alltrax with a series wound
motor?
I'll talk to Alltrax before I decide anything for sure, but I'm considering
liquidation at this point. the motorcycle has been a lot of fun, but it has
a way of always spending more of my time and/or money :-)
damon
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ray;
Just a few quick thoughts. Rather than two motors, go with one BIG motor!
A Warp 11 incher. Now THAT'S power to torque about!I drove Steve Clunn's
direct drive, well, he just left the truk in 4th, and away you go, tires
screaming!! He was running a 240 volt Optima or were they Orbitals pack? I
think he if fitting that motor in something like ya have in mind? A sporty
thing. Only challenge with that big ass motor in a FWD car it may just not
FIT! A RWD with a driveshaft makes it easier, it will go where the tranny
hump is/was .RX-7 FWD or RWD?One advantage of keeping the tranny is not
having to buy reverse contacters. Steve might chime in on this one? But when
ya see how well direct drive cars work, White Zombie, Gone Postal, Acela
Express, to mention a few, subways and lite rail guyz swear by it! EV-1 had
the coolist gear noise. I'm SURE General Murders coulda made a silent
gearbox, but that wouldn't be any fun! Like Harley Davidson, they were
leasing the SOUND, too! Like they say in the Hummer ads:" Like Nothing
Else" THAT woulda been a perfect EV-1 ad line!!!
OK that's my two motors worth.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Want to build a sporty EV
> Hello list members.
>
> My third EV project will be a sports car. I am finally getting past
the design and seach for cheap parts stage and now have to make some
choices. I welcome any suggestions or comments from the experienced members
of the list.
>
> I want to build a sporty EV that looks great, goes fast, goes far. OK
stop laughing.
>
> Here is what I am working with:
>
> 1988 RX7 Gen 2 Turbo - has a great body, new paint, disks all around, 5
speed, dead engine. Nice looking car. Cda of about 5.95
>
> Choice of twin motors
> - Two Prestolite 4001 twin shaft. These can easily be coupled with a
spline coupler.
> - Two ADC 203-06-4001M single shaft. These could be belt/chain coupled
or sent to Jim to add some tandem magic.
>
> Choice on tranny
> - existing RX7 5 speed. Likely need a race clutch. Rear end?
> - Powerglide 2 speed set up for drag racing manual shift
> I will need to make an adapter plate depending on the setup.
>
> Controller
>
> Zilla 2K 300 V if Otmar will return my email so I can get it ordered.
> Parallel/Series switching option
>
> Batteries
>
> I am thinking of a hybrid battery pack using Hawkers for punch and NiMH
for range. I have some used M-95 NiMh packs from a Ranger EV, tested good
to +80AH. I replace a few of the weaker cells.
> This is the same type of configuration I used on my EZE sports bike. The
Hawkers act like big capacitors.
>
> I was thinking of a 192V system with 16 Odyssey 16AH pb (3.1kwh) plus 16
M-95 NiMh (18.2kwh). Total pack weight 896 lbs. Estimated range of 70-100
miles.
>
> Guestimate on vehicle weight is 3200- 3300 lbs. That only leaves me 350
lbs to max GVWR of 3635.
>
> Questions to the group:
>
> 1) Will the 8" ADC give me a whole lot more than the smaller 7.25"
Prestolite. The Presolite is an easy tandem setup. I would need to send
the ADC to Jim at Hi-Torque. Jim, pm me with how much?
> 2) The Powerglide is great for drag racing but is a 5 speed better for
mostly street use. I want to be able to do a burn out and maybe give some
friends a good first impression of an EV. Edmonton is mostly flat.
> 3) Has anyone else had success with a hybrid battery pack. The biggest
complaint is the complexity of the BMS/charger setup.
> 4) Should I go higher on pack voltage. 240V?. GWVR weight becomes an
issue. Pack would be over 1100lbs
> 5) Given the above, can I hope to see a 13 second quarter. What chould
I change/add to make it faster.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ray Wong
> Ezesport
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've had this idea to replace the steel/iron motor can with something that is
lighter such as an aluminum alloy or something similar. Maybe something like a
7075 type of aluminum with some hardening might do the job but im not sure.
The idea is to of course lighten the total weight of the motor for a motorcycle
application.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hehe,
Thanks! I really really needed that :) It's something to do with
the weather. Even oboe reeds are getting hot under the collar for no
reason :D
So yes, the electric minor.
She is now completely stripped. I'm going into town today to buy the
replacement pot I need to get my welder working again. Then it's time
to build a frame to put on the car to enable SPL, a UK surface
processing company to dip it to remove all rust and other crud.
We've decided to go for broke and are honing in on Thunder Sky as a
potential supplier. Yes, expensive, but the added milage and reduced
weight is a real bonus. We're of the opinion that we'd much rather
wait four years and have Li-ions rather than Lead Acids and a shorter
build time. (The difference here brought about by cost you see!)
So yeah - it's coming on, all be it VERY SLOWLY!
:)
In the meantime the Bike is behaving itself fantastically. I'm
getting 20miles on a charge although the onboard instrumentation is
fudged. I just pack a meter so I can manually take SOC readings
before I end up with a flat battery ;)
Nikki.
On 26 Jul 2006, at 23:07, Death to All Spammers wrote:
Now for the expensive part:
They want:
£1125+17.5% VAT for the intial downpayment
Then £375 +17.5% VAT per month for 47 months based on 10,000 miles
per year.
Oh, and like GM, they want the car back at the end of the trial.
Forget them - how is the Minor coming? Isn't an electrified Hebe
smarter than a Smart?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Bob, the only draw back to one big motor is the limitation in the torque
curve - a transmission of some type would be required. The advantage of two
motors, mechanically in series is that a suitable controller (Zilla) can
electrically switch between series and parallel, thus giving two speeds! All
without requiring a gearbox - just a reducing gear (like a typical rear
end). This is what drives some of the fastest EVs today.
Of course the drawback to two motors, is the extra expense, its a physically
longer, plus a few more contactors...
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bob Rice
Sent: July 26, 2006 9:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
Hi Ray;
Just a few quick thoughts. Rather than two motors, go with one BIG motor!
A Warp 11 incher. Now THAT'S power to torque about!I drove Steve Clunn's
direct drive, well, he just left the truk in 4th, and away you go, tires
screaming!! He was running a 240 volt Optima or were they Orbitals pack? I
think he if fitting that motor in something like ya have in mind? A sporty
thing. Only challenge with that big ass motor in a FWD car it may just not
FIT! A RWD with a driveshaft makes it easier, it will go where the tranny
hump is/was .RX-7 FWD or RWD?One advantage of keeping the tranny is not
having to buy reverse contacters. Steve might chime in on this one? But when
ya see how well direct drive cars work, White Zombie, Gone Postal, Acela
Express, to mention a few, subways and lite rail guyz swear by it! EV-1 had
the coolist gear noise. I'm SURE General Murders coulda made a silent
gearbox, but that wouldn't be any fun! Like Harley Davidson, they were
leasing the SOUND, too! Like they say in the Hummer ads:" Like Nothing
Else" THAT woulda been a perfect EV-1 ad line!!!
OK that's my two motors worth.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Want to build a sporty EV
> Hello list members.
>
> My third EV project will be a sports car. I am finally getting past
the design and seach for cheap parts stage and now have to make some
choices. I welcome any suggestions or comments from the experienced members
of the list.
>
> I want to build a sporty EV that looks great, goes fast, goes far. OK
stop laughing.
>
> Here is what I am working with:
>
> 1988 RX7 Gen 2 Turbo - has a great body, new paint, disks all around, 5
speed, dead engine. Nice looking car. Cda of about 5.95
>
> Choice of twin motors
> - Two Prestolite 4001 twin shaft. These can easily be coupled with a
spline coupler.
> - Two ADC 203-06-4001M single shaft. These could be belt/chain coupled
or sent to Jim to add some tandem magic.
>
> Choice on tranny
> - existing RX7 5 speed. Likely need a race clutch. Rear end?
> - Powerglide 2 speed set up for drag racing manual shift
> I will need to make an adapter plate depending on the setup.
>
> Controller
>
> Zilla 2K 300 V if Otmar will return my email so I can get it ordered.
> Parallel/Series switching option
>
> Batteries
>
> I am thinking of a hybrid battery pack using Hawkers for punch and NiMH
for range. I have some used M-95 NiMh packs from a Ranger EV, tested good
to +80AH. I replace a few of the weaker cells.
> This is the same type of configuration I used on my EZE sports bike. The
Hawkers act like big capacitors.
>
> I was thinking of a 192V system with 16 Odyssey 16AH pb (3.1kwh) plus 16
M-95 NiMh (18.2kwh). Total pack weight 896 lbs. Estimated range of 70-100
miles.
>
> Guestimate on vehicle weight is 3200- 3300 lbs. That only leaves me 350
lbs to max GVWR of 3635.
>
> Questions to the group:
>
> 1) Will the 8" ADC give me a whole lot more than the smaller 7.25"
Prestolite. The Presolite is an easy tandem setup. I would need to send
the ADC to Jim at Hi-Torque. Jim, pm me with how much?
> 2) The Powerglide is great for drag racing but is a 5 speed better for
mostly street use. I want to be able to do a burn out and maybe give some
friends a good first impression of an EV. Edmonton is mostly flat.
> 3) Has anyone else had success with a hybrid battery pack. The biggest
complaint is the complexity of the BMS/charger setup.
> 4) Should I go higher on pack voltage. 240V?. GWVR weight becomes an
issue. Pack would be over 1100lbs
> 5) Given the above, can I hope to see a 13 second quarter. What chould
I change/add to make it faster.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ray Wong
> Ezesport
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote
> So far though the zener regs seem to be
> keeping it alive.
What would typical values have been for the voltage @ current under
similar conditions prior to installing the regs?
As I recall, you added the regs to the pack after it had been in service
some time; how many miles were on it when the regs were installed, and
how many miles put on since?
(Trying to get a more quantitative feel for the difference the zener
regs make.)
Thanks,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, I am not an expert with motors, but I have seen numerous similar
posts. The experts indicate that the steel housing is required for the
magnetic field of the motor. Too bad, as they are quite heavy ( as you
realize )
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of john bart
Sent: July 26, 2006 10:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Replacing motor can with lighter material
I've had this idea to replace the steel/iron motor can with something that
is lighter such as an aluminum alloy or something similar. Maybe something
like a 7075 type of aluminum with some hardening might do the job but im not
sure. The idea is to of course lighten the total weight of the motor for a
motorcycle application.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI Jerry and All,
I will definately suss out the field weakening option. In terms of the
battery voltage, i don't want to exceed the vehicle's GVM. I am only a
student hence must do things on a relatively small budget. Changing over the
battery pack which i paid over $700 for is not an option at the moment.
The tires are pumped to 44psi, the max rating for the tyre. And i don't use
syn lube in the gearbox because, the gearbox of a fiat 126 if you know, the
bearings do not like synthetic oil.
When fully charged, the 7 12volt batts will reach 100.8 volts, which will
stop the PWM ing. Still i do agree that 7 12 volt batts is really pushing
the limit on things within the controller.
I need to keep the vehicle light weight. Oh and by the way, the 6 volt
batteries end up costing more than my 12 volt batteries. And my vehicle is
engineered for the 6 12 volt batteries. It really sucks. I want good range,
light vehicle, can get that with leads. Need lithium, but i then need to win
the lottery.
If anyone is doing a bulk buy on Li, please let me know. I am interested.
Cheers
From: "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Upgrading to a higher voltage
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 19:13:42 -0500
Hi Robert and All,
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Upgrading to a higher voltage
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 22:50:55 +1000
>Hi All,
>
>Currently on my fiat 126 EV i am running 72 volts of trojan
>scs225.
That is a very light battery pack probably leading
to early battery death from abuse for the size, weight of
car.
>
>Its alright in terms of performance but climbing hills when
>60% SOC is a bit tiresome. I am driving in 3rd gear all
>the time which i cringe when the amp meter reads more than
>150 amps and my battery voltage sags to about 66 volts.
There is an old trick called field weakening where
you short the field with a selenoid and a resistor. I use a
12-18" of 12 gge copper wire which will give about a 25-50%
increase in rpm. But only use it once the rpm is above 2500
or so. Best hook up the contactor to a micro switch on the
go pedal so it hits at full pedal.
Your motor will easily hit 5500 rpms, many do 6500
without problems and with prep, go 8k rpm.
>
>I would like to run an extra battery to 84 volts. That way
>i assume that i can run pretty much 2nd gear all the time.
>at the moment 2nd gear only gets me to 50 km/hr tops on
>flats. I am hoping that the extra voltage will rev out the
>motor a little more to get me around 60-70km/hr on the
>flat.
You do need more battery weight but you are getting
very close to destroying your controller if you start with a
high charge voltage an 84 vdc pack needs to equalize or even
charge quickly. Maybe go 8 vdc to get more battery weight
and use field weakening to get more rpm.
With the 12v batteries, you'll need a new pack
within a yr if you drive much at all. With 6v batteries, you
can go 3-7 yrs and between 2 and 5 yrs with 8v batteries
with good charging.
>
>And hence with higher revs, i can use less current in 2nd
>gear than 3rd gear at the same speed.
Yes but you use more voltage so battery drain is
the same but motor heating is less and more torque thru
gearing for the same motor amps unless you use too much FW.
>
>My aim is to increase the pittyful range of around 20 kms
>of my car to hopefully around the 30km mark.
Have you put 50psi in your tires or switched to
LLR tires? Syn lubes in tranny? Both can make a real
difference.
>
>Has nyone done that.
>
>I was told by Alltrax that the controller can handle 84
>volts. But got to make sure that the voltage never exceeds
>100 volts.
>
>So for a fully charged pack of 7 12volt batts i can just
>make the 90 volt limit where the logic controller will
>stop the PWM ing.
7 / 12vdc batteries will hit 105vdc to be fully
charged, too much for that controller.
>
>I think that this would be a better way to increase range
>other than change the batteries to 6 volters which will be
>too damn heavy or increase the voltage to 96 volts.
You should try to have at least 30% of the
vehicles weight in batteries for reasonable range, battery
life. I'd go with 72vdc of 6v T-105s/125's for lowest
battery costs. I'm putting that many, 720 lbs, in my 1300lb
EV!! Put as much battery in as you can, you won't be sorry
with much longer range and battery life!!
Jerry Dycus
>
>Cheers
_________________________________________________________________
realestate.com.au: the biggest address in property
http://ninemsn.realestate.com.au
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The iron is an integral part of the motor, it forms part of the magnetic
path.
Aluminum (and other such light weight materials) won't work.
> I've had this idea to replace the steel/iron motor can with something that
> is lighter such as an aluminum alloy or something similar. Maybe
> something like a 7075 type of aluminum with some hardening might do the
> job but im not sure. The idea is to of course lighten the total weight of
> the motor for a motorcycle application.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
> countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's been a disappointing day.
I finally hooked everything up. That was cool. I only electrocuted
myself once, probably because my converter is a Todd, so it's always
ready to draw some current. Very minor.
I roasted a voltmeter trying to measure the resistance of the emergency
circuit breaker (to figure out why I electrocuted myself) with all the
batteries hooked up. More sparks! More knowledge. I will learn from
these mistakes.
My 12V battery was nearly dead. I had very weak lights, until I closed
the emergency circuit breaker. Then everything was nice and bright.
Probably that converter doing its job. Unfortunately, several of my
Rudman MK2B regulators immediately reported undervoltage, but that's no
biggie.
But I couldn't get the wheels to spin. That was the big
disappointment. But I figured, hey, my batteries have been sitting on
the garage floor for nearly four weeks. Maybe they're too weak to power
the Curtis 1231C.
This is my first attempt to charge an EV. I tried to calibrate the
PFC-20, according to its instructions. Without a voltmeter, I thought
I'd have some serious problems. But then I remembered my eMeter. It
showed 147V, and this is a 144V pack of 12 YellowTops. Maybe they
aren't as dead as I thought. I figured charging them was still a good
idea, so I carried on.
The eMeter reports between -9 and -12 amps, which seems to indicate good
behavior. I'm charging from standard house current. After about five
minutes of adjusting the voltage upwards, the pack was at 160V or so,
and the first regulator came on. I turned down the current a bit to get
it to turn off, and kept adjusting the voltage up. It came on quickly.
I decided to leave it there and allow charging to continue, since I
hadn't seen the yellow limit light lately.
After about 30 minutes, another regulator started blinking green. An
hour and a half later, a few of the red ones have started blinking
green. There are still four red ones left, but the others seem happy.
It's the charger that's bothering me. All the blinking regulators
stopped at once, and the charger started flashing the blue timer light
without the yellow limit light. The manual seems to indicate that means
a regulator went over its max temp or something and the charger started
a timeout. It keeps happening every ten minutes or so, though.
None of the regulators gets a yellow lamp, at least as far as I can see;
does the RegBus prevent that?
It's been nearly four hours now, so I turned down the current again and
turned the voltage up a bit. I won't let it go over 180V, but I would
like those red LEDs to turn off and get the regulators all blinking
green. I've still got three red ones.
I was expecting a quick ramp-up to 180V, followed by a finishing
charge. I'm getting this ten-minute pulsing. Is this expected behavior
for the calibration charge? Am I making another mistake? Have I
($DEITY forbid) already murdered my first pack???
Thanks in advance,
Jude Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wednesday night July 26, 2006 George Noory mentioned Tesla Motors. Millions
of listeners. Good PR. Now if we can just get NEDRA a mention. Lawrence
Rhodes.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Duh. It was the Diode! Radio Shack # 276-1144. I reversed polarity. It
fried the diode. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: Replacement resistor for Albright/Curtis contactor.
> My resistor crumbled to bits on me. Could someone suggest a replacement
> resistor value for my 120v Albright/Curtis contactor? Thanks. Lawrence
> Rhodes.....
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jul 26, 2006, at 11:04 PM, Don Cameron wrote:
Hey Bob, the only draw back to one big motor is the limitation in the
torque
curve - a transmission of some type would be required. The advantage
of two
motors, mechanically in series is that a suitable controller (Zilla)
can
electrically switch between series and parallel, thus giving two
speeds! All
without requiring a gearbox - just a reducing gear (like a typical rear
end). This is what drives some of the fastest EVs today.
It's also possible to wire up a single motor so that the field coils
can be arranged in series or parallel. The WarP 13 comes like that
from the factory, and Jim Husted has modified a few ADC motors (such as
Jay Donnaway's 9-incher) for series or parallel fields. This should
allow two speeds.
To my knowledge, it still remains to be seen how well this will work.
I don't think anyone's managed to get a series/parallel switched field
motor on the track. Or on the road, for that matter.
Does anyone know of an example?
Of course the drawback to two motors, is the extra expense, its a
physically
longer,
Only if the motors are connected nose-to-tail, like Wayland's Siamese 8
setup. Otmar stacked his two motors and connected them with a belt,
and the Silver Bullet clustered THREE motors. They're not appreciably
longer than a single motor, but of course they're heavier and bulkier.
plus a few more contactors...
True dat. Of course you need a controller capable of the switchover
(Zilla), or two controllers.
Another benefit of two motors is you get twice the comm and brush area,
which means you should be able to handle twice the current. Modifying
a single motor to have series/parallel fields leaves the comm/brush
assembly the same.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bob and all
I got another video clip up on
http://www.grassrootsev.com/mits.htm
of the Mit's when it had the 11 and 2k controller . The motor is now in the
Lamborghini , that Paul and I are rushing to get done but the 28 for the
wktec mover opening . , I sold the 2k controller to Paul , thinking I get
another soon :-( . Paul has it in his 959 Porsche , but hasn't had a
chance to open it up as the clutch won't take it . Lots going on at his
place , with two other orders . I was driving the truck around with a 1k
300v controller and it was like a different truck, no more tire burning in
4th , not even very good pick up for a stand start , once it get going it
dose ok , .
My lawn business has been hopping and the electric mower is doing good.
I'm seeing battery charging a little different , with many days doing close
to 10 charges a day. Most of my charges start at over 200 amps when I plug
the 120v truck into the 96v 8 orbital 50 in zero turn mower . The batteries
seem to get stronger with each charge and by the end of the day I can see a
big difference in how much grass I can cut on a charge. . Through the day
they get no finish charge , I plug then into the truck , finish the yard by
then they're over 14v , I pull the plug and on to the next.. I have
mark 2 regs on then and a 10 position switch that I can switch around and
look at each battery's voltage . Voltage differences seem to get better
through the day , when I finish today they where all within .05 of a volt ,
I often think while charging my mower , that this could just as easy be a
car , hour 10 charges and 25 miles on a charge , that's 250 miles .with just
2 hours of recharging time . Would work of me .
Steve Clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: Want to build a sporty EV. Motor Mania
Hi Ray;
Just a few quick thoughts. Rather than two motors, go with one BIG
motor!
A Warp 11 incher. Now THAT'S power to torque about!I drove Steve Clunn's
direct drive, well, he just left the truk in 4th, and away you go, tires
screaming!! He was running a 240 volt Optima or were they Orbitals pack? I
think he if fitting that motor in something like ya have in mind? A sporty
thing. Only challenge with that big ass motor in a FWD car it may just not
FIT! A RWD with a driveshaft makes it easier, it will go where the tranny
hump is/was .RX-7 FWD or RWD?One advantage of keeping the tranny is not
having to buy reverse contacters. Steve might chime in on this one? But
when
ya see how well direct drive cars work, White Zombie, Gone Postal, Acela
Express, to mention a few, subways and lite rail guyz swear by it! EV-1
had
the coolist gear noise. I'm SURE General Murders coulda made a silent
gearbox, but that wouldn't be any fun! Like Harley Davidson, they were
leasing the SOUND, too! Like they say in the Hummer ads:" Like Nothing
Else" THAT woulda been a perfect EV-1 ad line!!!
OK that's my two motors worth.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Want to build a sporty EV
Hello list members.
My third EV project will be a sports car. I am finally getting past
the design and seach for cheap parts stage and now have to make some
choices. I welcome any suggestions or comments from the experienced
members
of the list.
I want to build a sporty EV that looks great, goes fast, goes far. OK
stop laughing.
Here is what I am working with:
1988 RX7 Gen 2 Turbo - has a great body, new paint, disks all around,
5
speed, dead engine. Nice looking car. Cda of about 5.95
Choice of twin motors
- Two Prestolite 4001 twin shaft. These can easily be coupled with a
spline coupler.
- Two ADC 203-06-4001M single shaft. These could be belt/chain
coupled
or sent to Jim to add some tandem magic.
Choice on tranny
- existing RX7 5 speed. Likely need a race clutch. Rear end?
- Powerglide 2 speed set up for drag racing manual shift
I will need to make an adapter plate depending on the setup.
Controller
Zilla 2K 300 V if Otmar will return my email so I can get it ordered.
Parallel/Series switching option
Batteries
I am thinking of a hybrid battery pack using Hawkers for punch and NiMH
for range. I have some used M-95 NiMh packs from a Ranger EV, tested good
to +80AH. I replace a few of the weaker cells.
This is the same type of configuration I used on my EZE sports bike.
The
Hawkers act like big capacitors.
I was thinking of a 192V system with 16 Odyssey 16AH pb (3.1kwh) plus
16
M-95 NiMh (18.2kwh). Total pack weight 896 lbs. Estimated range of
70-100
miles.
Guestimate on vehicle weight is 3200- 3300 lbs. That only leaves me
350
lbs to max GVWR of 3635.
Questions to the group:
1) Will the 8" ADC give me a whole lot more than the smaller 7.25"
Prestolite. The Presolite is an easy tandem setup. I would need to send
the ADC to Jim at Hi-Torque. Jim, pm me with how much?
2) The Powerglide is great for drag racing but is a 5 speed better for
mostly street use. I want to be able to do a burn out and maybe give some
friends a good first impression of an EV. Edmonton is mostly flat.
3) Has anyone else had success with a hybrid battery pack. The biggest
complaint is the complexity of the BMS/charger setup.
4) Should I go higher on pack voltage. 240V?. GWVR weight becomes an
issue. Pack would be over 1100lbs
5) Given the above, can I hope to see a 13 second quarter. What chould
I change/add to make it faster.
Thanks
Ray Wong
Ezesport
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Duh. It was the Diode! Radio Shack # 276-1144. I reversed
polarity. It
> fried the diode. Lawrence Rhodes.....
>
That's just the natural consequence for EV musicians who try to play
the brown note... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brown_note)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> In the meantime the Bike is behaving itself fantastically. I'm
> getting 20miles on a charge although the onboard instrumentation is
> fudged. I just pack a meter so I can manually take SOC readings
> before I end up with a flat battery ;)
>
> Nikki.
>
Slow and methodical is the right way to go with Hebe, and sure Ms Kate
says your nuts (jealous she can't go 2-up? ;) but how about a lithium
pack for the bike?
P.S. - A Chinese moped brand-named Sakura is a bit odd - that's
*Japanese* for cherry blossom!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It also uses a zebra battery, takes 5 hours to charge and the battery runs flat
if you leave it for 5 days, since it has to keep itself warm.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of nikki
Sent: 26 July 2006 21:58
To: [email protected]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Details of the SmartEV trial (in UK)
Apologies for cross posting this to several lists but I know that not
everyone is in the same list.
After a week of tracking down the person in charge of the Smart EV
corporate trial I found out some facts and figures:
It will be using a (quote) 50KW Brushless DC motor, standard Smart
gearbox and electric heating elements.
It will supposedly weigh 104kg more than the standard SmartForTwo,
have a limited top speed of 70 mph and a 0-30mph of 6.5 seconds. (Why
they don't give the 0-60 I don't know) They're going to use Power
Assisted Steering too to help compensate for the extra weight.
Now for the expensive part:
They want:
£1125+17.5% VAT for the intial downpayment
Then £375 +17.5% VAT per month for 47 months based on 10,000 miles
per year.
Oh, and like GM, they want the car back at the end of the trial.
I'm really disappointed as I was hoping I could get one for my
business. It was much more than I could realistically afford. They
suggested I got sponsorship but I really don't see that happening.
I'm gutted.
Anyway - I'll keep trying to find someone to sponsor me and see what
happens.
Nikki.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First mention I heard was at 10:42 PM. First hour. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; "SFEVA"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
"ETList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:53 PM
Subject: Tesla Motors mentioned on Coast to Coast AM
> Wednesday night July 26, 2006 George Noory mentioned Tesla Motors.
Millions
> of listeners. Good PR. Now if we can just get NEDRA a mention. Lawrence
> Rhodes.........
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So far I have been denied coverage by 6 companies Geico was on of them.
The laws must be different in PA as most companies do not want to deal
with it.
Still checking...
Mike G.
Try Geico. According to them my EV is still a Ford Escort whether its
powered by gas, rubber bands or even batteries.
Progressive Insurance may even be approachable.
I'm not in PA but just over the Mason Dixon Line.
Chip
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:07 PM George Noory made a detailed announcement about Tesla Motors.
Very positive. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; "SFEVA"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
"ETList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:53 PM
Subject: Tesla Motors mentioned on Coast to Coast AM
> Wednesday night July 26, 2006 George Noory mentioned Tesla Motors.
Millions
> of listeners. Good PR. Now if we can just get NEDRA a mention. Lawrence
> Rhodes.........
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,
I woke up to this attractive article on USAToday.com:
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2006-07-26-electric-cars-usat_x.htm
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Summer Special - Free shipping on all orders over $500!
Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Has anyone else had let the smoke out of their
> Alltrax with a series wound
> motor?
>
DCP, yes. Peter Senkowski has taken some Raptors and
added some more electrolytic caps on the board, and
seems to have solved stuff.
AllTrax is of course, lower voltage, and highly
redesigned. I am not aware of issues with them. I'd
get on the horn ASAP.
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello All,
There is one type of motor that does not have the normal field pole
placements. It is a coil form of windings place inside a plastic core.
Something like a large plastic pipe. I do not remember what the rotor is
made out of.
This motor is a DC brushless motor by - SWISS ETEL.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: Replacing motor can with lighter material
> The iron is an integral part of the motor, it forms part of the magnetic
> path.
> Aluminum (and other such light weight materials) won't work.
>
> > I've had this idea to replace the steel/iron motor can with something
> > that
> > is lighter such as an aluminum alloy or something similar. Maybe
> > something like a 7075 type of aluminum with some hardening might do the
> > job but im not sure. The idea is to of course lighten the total weight
> > of
> > the motor for a motorcycle application.
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
> > countries) for 2¢/min or less.
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
--- End Message ---
