EV Digest 5757
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: battery trailer
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: battery trailer
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: E-Meter AH Battery State Of Charge Capacity
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: battery trailer
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: E-Meter AH Battery State Of Charge Capacity
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Airbag and non-ECU computers
by "Barry Oppenheim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: battery trailer
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: battery trailer
by Don M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Wanted: E-Meter, Dead or Alive!!!
by Steven Ciciora <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Charging infrastructure
by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Streetcar components - extra high voltage, Comments
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: battery trailer
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Wilderness EV
by "Clyde R. Visser, P.E." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Prestolite MTA 4001 (48V) vs. MTC4001 (96V)
by "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: battery trailer
by Don M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Can't find on graybar, 300W DC converter found
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Black Cell
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Can't find on graybar, 300W DC converter found
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: battery trailer
by Don M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: battery trailer
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Netgain Warp 8" availability?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Netgain Warp 8" availability?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) mountain ev
by Robb Wallen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Lithium Safety
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: bolt pattern info - Blazer
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Wilderness Electric Vehicle warning
by "Clyde R. Visser, P.E." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Streetcar components - extra high voltage
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I agree with the idea of a trailer for extra range. Some years back, Team
New England's Solectria Force won the Tour de Sol (I think twice), towing a
battery trailer.
As long as you're not put off by the awkwardness of backing up and parking,
a battery trailer can be very effective.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
True,
I feel this would be the better route to follow without going into generator
type trailers.
An extra 150-200 kg of batteries on a small trailer is no problem.It is not
really going to affect my vehicle's suspension, however, will increase the
electrical economy and increase the braking distance.
Anyone on the list actually made a battery trailer??
Cheers
On 15/08/06, David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I agree with the idea of a trailer for extra range. Some years back, Team
New England's Solectria Force won the Tour de Sol (I think twice), towing
a
battery trailer.
As long as you're not put off by the awkwardness of backing up and
parking,
a battery trailer can be very effective.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ - the former contact address
([EMAIL PROTECTED]) will soon disappear.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 8/13/06, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The AH displays only 18 AH when this happens.
60-79% of 260 AH should be 104 to 52 AH used.
Are there some other factors to consider?
Perhaps check what this option is set to:
F09 Set Discharge Floor
If this is set to something other than 100%, it will change the
scaling of the LED bar graph to show "empty" at that percentage (of
the 260AH in your case). It's actually quite a useful feature.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
few more:
-maybe adapting 155/70/13" wheels and mount LRR tires like Nokian NRT2 or
bridgestone B381 or Michelin E3B to have 10-15% more range.
-inflat your actual tires to the max
- use synthetic oil in gearbox
-instead of SCS-225, use 6 X trojan J185P batteries (195Ah)
would result in 51X6 = 306kg lead instead of actual 180kg ! and should give
you 40km range instead of 25km.
Fiat 126 maximum weight is 900kg so actual 700kg -180 +306 = 830kg...and
less room for you
imho such car can't give more than 35-40km usable with lead, maybe it should
be better keeping few EV parts for bigger EV conversion and selling the
fiat.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: battery trailer
> HI
>
> Please check out the ev album. Its a fiat 126.
>
> Well i simply cannot afford nicads or Li. I got a quote from thundersky
> which i presume is the cheapest Li out there and it would be 12K aussie
> dollars. Nicads (saft flooded) cannot be obtained since the company will
not
> sell it to me.
>
> Oh by the way, when i say trailer, i mean a small trailer not a RV type
> trailer!
>
> I am talking trailers that are pulled behind a motorbike.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> >From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Re: battery trailer
> >Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 10:24:22 +0100
> >
> >On 8/15/06, Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>Hi Peoples,
> >>
> >>I am getting pretty desperate. I am about to stat my new job which is
> >>around
> >>25-30 km's from my place. Most of it on the freeway. I am able to drive
at
> >>90 km/hr.
> >
> >>There is simply no room in my vehicle to add mroe batteries. The vehicle
> >>can
> >>only carry around 4 kwh of batts. Then it gets too heavy and exceeds the
> >>GVM
> >>as well as intruding in my drivers space :-)
> >
> >What kind of vehicle is that?
> > Just a thought, but rather than mess about with trailers or so on,
> >have you looked into using batteries with better energy density?
> >Li-Ion or Nicad? If you need let's say 8kWh to get there reliably
> >(and charge at work I assume?) then it's maybe not an unreasonable
> >cost compared to a whole extra lead pack and trailer, especially since
> >that might not end up a very nice solution.
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need FREE FUEL? Become a member of Qualified Opinions
>
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>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Evan,
It was set at 50%. I never go below 75% any way which is about 15 miles for
me, so I thought that was a good number.
I will try it at 100% and see what happens.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: E-Meter AH Battery State Of Charge Capacity
> On 8/13/06, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > The AH displays only 18 AH when this happens.
> >
> > 60-79% of 260 AH should be 104 to 52 AH used.
> >
> > Are there some other factors to consider?
>
> Perhaps check what this option is set to:
>
> F09 Set Discharge Floor
>
> If this is set to something other than 100%, it will change the
> scaling of the LED bar graph to show "empty" at that percentage (of
> the 260AH in your case). It's actually quite a useful feature.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This question relates to conversions on late model cars. (I did see some
of the answers on Don Cameron's conversion site, but had a few more
questions.)
When disconnecting the non-ECU computer systems (air bags, anti-lock brakes,
etc.), were there any unexpected problems hooking the systems back up? Did
all of the systems come back "on line" when hooking them up to 12V DC or
were there some that required input from the old ECU in order to operate
properly? Are there other considerations, besides power, that need to be
addressed for reconnecting these systems?
Thanks in advance,
Barry Oppenheim
(mulling over an EV conversion)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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* This post contains a forbidden message format *
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--- Begin Message ---
Already tried inflating the tires to the max.
Fiat 126 gearbox, it is highly recommended by the fiat mechanics that
synthetic oil not be used.
The maximum weight of my vehcle is 890 kg including the passengers. Right
now, i am at 700kg without any passengers!
Will look into those batteries that you specified.
Cheers
On 16/08/06, Philippe Borges <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
few more:
-maybe adapting 155/70/13" wheels and mount LRR tires like Nokian NRT2 or
bridgestone B381 or Michelin E3B to have 10-15% more range.
-inflat your actual tires to the max
- use synthetic oil in gearbox
-instead of SCS-225, use 6 X trojan J185P batteries (195Ah)
would result in 51X6 = 306kg lead instead of actual 180kg ! and should
give
you 40km range instead of 25km.
Fiat 126 maximum weight is 900kg so actual 700kg -180 +306 = 830kg...and
less room for you
imho such car can't give more than 35-40km usable with lead, maybe it
should
be better keeping few EV parts for bigger EV conversion and selling the
fiat.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: battery trailer
> HI
>
> Please check out the ev album. Its a fiat 126.
>
> Well i simply cannot afford nicads or Li. I got a quote from thundersky
> which i presume is the cheapest Li out there and it would be 12K aussie
> dollars. Nicads (saft flooded) cannot be obtained since the company will
not
> sell it to me.
>
> Oh by the way, when i say trailer, i mean a small trailer not a RV type
> trailer!
>
> I am talking trailers that are pulled behind a motorbike.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> >From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Re: battery trailer
> >Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 10:24:22 +0100
> >
> >On 8/15/06, Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>Hi Peoples,
> >>
> >>I am getting pretty desperate. I am about to stat my new job which is
> >>around
> >>25-30 km's from my place. Most of it on the freeway. I am able to
drive
at
> >>90 km/hr.
> >
> >>There is simply no room in my vehicle to add mroe batteries. The
vehicle
> >>can
> >>only carry around 4 kwh of batts. Then it gets too heavy and exceeds
the
> >>GVM
> >>as well as intruding in my drivers space :-)
> >
> >What kind of vehicle is that?
> > Just a thought, but rather than mess about with trailers or so on,
> >have you looked into using batteries with better energy density?
> >Li-Ion or Nicad? If you need let's say 8kWh to get there reliably
> >(and charge at work I assume?) then it's maybe not an unreasonable
> >cost compared to a whole extra lead pack and trailer, especially since
> >that might not end up a very nice solution.
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need FREE FUEL? Become a member of Qualified Opinions
>
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Equalifiedopinions%2Ecom%2Fsurvey%2Ephp%3Fsource%3Dhml%5Ftgl%5F1&_t=757739466&_r=emailtagline_july_harris&_m=EXT
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I checked out your car on the Ev album. Cool car.
I would think an appropriately small aluminum frame
trailer would be great. I don't know if you see any
aluminum trailers in Oz. Here in the US there are
snowmobile and other small utility trailers made of
aluminum structural members with steel only being used
in the axles, springs, hitch coupler, and nuts/bolts.
It IS real hard to back up a tiny trailer. Virtually
impossible.
-Don M
--- Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yo,
>
> My current battery pack weight is 180 kg. My battery
> pack is not nearly the
> same weights as the large american conversions. I
> only want a trailer that
> can handle 200 kg. So a motorbike trailer is
> suitable for this job.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The e-meter I bought on e-bay a few years back, turned
out to be a Dud. I bought it because it had the
serial port option, and now that I have my new pack of
T125s installed, I wanted to log the charge and
discharge cycles. I installed connectors so I can
easily swap between my serial e-meter and non-serial
e-meter. I disconnect the positive of the voltage
pre-scaler first, then all the other pins, and connect
the positive of the voltage pre-scaler last after
connecting the other pins. I have a DC-DC and
prescaler that came from cruising equipment co. I can
swap back and forth, the original meter still works,
the e-bay one never worked, so I don't believe I
killed it. The serial e-meter reads 255V, 175A, 1433
Ah, and 27% capacity. No data comes out of the CPU
TxD pin. I have put 0 through 10V on the voltage in
screw terminal, and on the ADC0 pin of the CPU, I get
between 0 and 1V. On the ADC1 pin of the CPU, I get
2.502V with nothing attached to the current shunt, I
get about 5V with 5mV on the shunt screw terminals,
and about 0V with -5mV on the shunt screw terminals.
I believe the CPU must scale the shunt signal
conditioning. Interesting, The e-meter says it sees
175A, but the shunt conditioning circuitry seems to be
stuck in the +/-50A range... I would think that if
the software thought it was seeing more than 50A, it
would change the conditioning circuitry for a higher
current range. My conclusion from the above tests is
that the signal conditioning circuitry still works, so
it must be the A/D converter on the CPU chip that's
bad? The RS-232 to TTL signal conditioning circuity
works... but no data comes out of the e-meter. (I'm a
bit puzzled how both the serial port and A/D converter
could get killed but not the conditioning circuits
between the CPU and the outside world?). I wonder if
the e-meter needs to somehow be initialized? Oh, no
traces or components appear to be burned.
Anyway, I would like to minimize my losses on this
e-bay purchase by figuring out how to fix this
e-meter. I can do surface mount re-work. I'm looking
for more dead e-meters to 1) see how they fail, 2) see
the differences between different revisions, and 3)
hopefully figure out how to fix them. Got any you
would like to sell me? Please email me off list with
how much you would like for your dead emeter.
Thanks, and hopefully what I learn can benefit the EV
community.
Steven Ciciora
Karmannelectric(@t]Yahoo[dot)c0m
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi there everyone,
I would be very interested to hear how different places handle
charing infrastructure. I'm in the process of arranging a
presentation in Bristol, UK to encourage the creation of public
charging points.
The concerns that I've heard voiced so far:
How to deal with Vandalism
How to deal with charging (if charging is levied for power)
Charger Etiquette. (for multiple EVS fighting over one point)
I've seen how things work in the states, but would be interested to
see other points of view on these "concerns" that corporations have
against EV charging points.
Regards
Nikki.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: Streetcar components - extra high voltage
> You might get some advice from MUNI in San Francisco. They use 600vdc.
> Their lines fell on our 26v fire alarm wires and you shoulda seen the
smoke
> let out & a technician get the rubber gloves on and took the wire cutters
to
> the affected circuit. Brown pants time........... Lawrence Rhodes.....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lawrence Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 1:04 PM
> Subject: Streetcar components - extra high voltage
>
>
> > We have a group from the Transit Museum Society in Vancouver restoring a
> > 1930's Belgium electric streetcar which runs on 600V DC. They want to
> > replace the contactor/resistor controller with a DC chopper based
> > controller. I don't know where you would start so I am hoping
someonecar said was ]beu'
> > on the list has some ideas.
> >
> > Their immediate concerns is to find 10uF electrolytic capacitors in the
> > 600 to 900 volt range and a DC breaker with a similar rating.
> >
> > Thanks, Lawrence
> >
> Hi EVerybody;
My first question on this, coming from a Trolley Museum Volunteer,
Branford Electric RR Assoc.,for most of my life is: WHY? Unless the car came
WITHOUT the stock controller, and you just don't have the car's born with
stuff? My experiance with electricals from the turn of the century, A FEW
ago.That they are built to last the ages, crude by Rapter standards, but
charmingly simple and easy to repair. After all, trolley shop people wern't
EE's in the Titanic Era.Is that the Red car over in the shop area, that I
saw when I was at the VEVA thing a few years ago. That nice modern looking
car that the guyz on the Big Interurban car, that was running that day, said
was being worked on? I guess if you can find a basic stock, maybe like the
MUNI Trackless Trolley controller, would be the right size. Or from Seattle
THEY run trackless, too.
But it is kinda cool to run what the car was born with. IMHO
My two tokens worth.
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes a tiny trailer is almost impossible to back-up.
Since we're building one though.... How about we make it two hitch points
and one wheel(caster) instead of one hitch and two wheels. Backing up is now
not an issue, it will swing with the rear. We could even shape it with the
proper taper to actually improve the overall aero and reduce the whr's
consumed by the car. Cornering swing will be different, but I'm picturing a
trailer thats only around 5 feet off the car.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
GE I-5
Blossvale, NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Don M
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:07 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: battery trailer
>
> I checked out your car on the Ev album. Cool car.
>
> I would think an appropriately small aluminum frame trailer would be
great.
> I don't know if you see any aluminum trailers in Oz. Here in the US there
> are snowmobile and other small utility trailers made of aluminum
structural
> members with steel only being used in the axles, springs, hitch coupler,
and
> nuts/bolts.
>
> It IS real hard to back up a tiny trailer. Virtually impossible.
>
> -Don M
>
> --- Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Yo,
> >
> > My current battery pack weight is 180 kg. My battery pack is not
> > nearly the same weights as the large american conversions. I only
want
> > a trailer that can handle 200 kg. So a motorbike trailer is suitable
> > for this job.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________
Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi ,
After talking with the folks at Alltrax and reprogramming the controller to max
and popping the clutch, the start off acceleration is better but not even close
to the original gas engine. The car will never be able to do any type hill.
I am glad that I did get all the parts and the refund check and it is just a
short commute to work with no hills.
Larry Roberts
Kennewick, WA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris,
A long long time ago I had a Lectric Leopard with the original 48V
motor that I ran at 114V (19 X 6V) with a Curtis controller. The little
motor never complained as long as I kept the RPMs up 3rd gear on the
freeway at 65mph. It weighed in at 3200 lbs and handled like a 53 Buick
with bad shocks. After I sold it the new owner changed it back to 96
volts and as far as I know it is still running.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Chris Tromley
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 5:55 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Prestolite MTA 4001 (48V) vs. MTC4001 (96V)
Hi Folks,
Been away awhile. Got a new job, also had to push hard to get LeSled
on the road for real, and was faced with the cruel irony that I needed
to stop spending so much time reading and writing about EVs so I could
actually build mine. I'm sure many of you can relate.
Here's the deal. My Lectric Leopard still has its original 48V
Prestolite even though I'm running 120V and the car will weigh around
3000 lbs. It's a tough motor, but that's asking a lot. I had a 96V
Prestolite thoroughly freshened up to drop in until I realized my
belief that the two motors were interchangeable was false. I also
noticed that even if I decide to use the 96V, it doesn't have any
machined surfaces that will properly center the motor on the plate
except around the OD of the drive end casting. This is looking like
some serious machining will be necessary.
Taking a closer look at the 48V in the car, it looks like there is
nothing precisely aligning it to its plate and/or trans either. (As
hopelessly crude as that sounds, no one with a Leopard would be
surprised if that is in fact true.) Does anyone know for sure?
Whichever motor I choose, I want to have it ready for a long life in
the car before I put LeSled on the road. That means removing and
installing the 48V or installing the 96V. A motor installation is
unavoidable. If the original 48V was aligned with the old "tap, spin
and listen" method, I could just as easily do that with the 96V too.
That would make "machining" the plate nothing more than hand-drilling
some clearance holes for the new bolt circle. How easy is this method
*really* for a first-timer who needs to move quickly?
TIA,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A friend of mine had an older relative that used a
trailer just like that, to haul pheasants in cages to
be released. I can ask him for details if you want.
-Don M
--- Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes a tiny trailer is almost impossible to back-up.
>
> Since we're building one though.... How about we
> make it two hitch points
> and one wheel(caster) instead of one hitch and two
> wheels. Backing up is now
> not an issue, it will swing with the rear. We could
> even shape it with the
> proper taper to actually improve the overall aero
> and reduce the whr's
> consumed by the car. Cornering swing will be
> different, but I'm picturing a
> trailer thats only around 5 feet off the car.
>
> --
> Stay Charged!
> Hump
>
> GE I-5
> Blossvale, NY
>
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Don M
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:07 AM
> > To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > Subject: Re: battery trailer
> >
> > I checked out your car on the Ev album. Cool car.
> >
> > I would think an appropriately small aluminum
> frame trailer would be
> great.
> > I don't know if you see any aluminum trailers in
> Oz. Here in the US there
> > are snowmobile and other small utility trailers
> made of aluminum
> structural
> > members with steel only being used in the axles,
> springs, hitch coupler,
> and
> > nuts/bolts.
> >
> > It IS real hard to back up a tiny trailer.
> Virtually impossible.
> >
> > -Don M
> >
> > --- Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Yo,
> > >
> > > My current battery pack weight is 180 kg. My
> battery pack is not
> > > nearly the same weights as the large american
> conversions. I only
> want
> > > a trailer that can handle 200 kg. So a
> motorbike trailer is suitable
> > > for this job.
> > >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________
> Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jeff,
I just spoke with Paul at Gray Bar at 540-343-3611 and he said the VP-12124's
are $343.39 and had plenty of stock (may have had a price increase since 96').
They put out about 21 amps at 14V when the 2 resistors are adjusted for 14V
operation. I soldered two big wires directly to the PC board in the front
access hole. The lid comes off easily with a few screws. They originally have
6ea 2.5A ptc's for 6 screw terminal parallel outputs to power amplified
speakers but it's easier to just solder a couple #10 wires, red & black to the
big output 1/4" wide runs.
CHANGE R30 FROM 3.4K TO 2.2K
CHANGE R31 FROM 30.1K TO 10K
Mark
Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I looked and it looks like they no longer carry it. I did find it on
other sources but they wanted over 350.00
so far the candidates are powerstream,iota, and the valcom, But I
haven't even seen a picture. Plus is that 12 amps only on output? that
may be a little light for my application.
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
My battery scanner found a droopy battery on the way home last night
(US-145). The battery only has 3k miles on it. I tried a hot individual
charge on that battery when bulk charging the 12 but it still drops off near
the end of the 27 mile trip and one cell is black, not clear like the other
two. It appears that the lead has desintegrated somewhat & given a black
appearance to the electrolite. Has anyone seen this before? I have an extra
Exide battery to replace it but not another US-145 from Atlanta so it won't be
the best match.
Thanks,
Mark
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The output diodes should be limited by current, regardless of output
voltage. You should limit the current to whatever the current limit at
the higher voltage is.
--
Martin K
Mark E. Hanson wrote:
Hi Jeff,
I just spoke with Paul at Gray Bar at 540-343-3611 and he said the VP-12124's are $343.39 and had plenty of stock (may have had a price increase since 96'). They put out about 21 amps at 14V when the 2 resistors are adjusted for 14V operation. I soldered two big wires directly to the PC board in the front access hole. The lid comes off easily with a few screws. They originally have 6ea 2.5A ptc's for 6 screw terminal parallel outputs to power amplified speakers but it's easier to just solder a couple #10 wires, red & black to the big output 1/4" wide runs.
CHANGE R30 FROM 3.4K TO 2.2K
CHANGE R31 FROM 30.1K TO 10K
Mark
Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I looked and it looks like they no longer carry it. I did find it on
other sources but they wanted over 350.00
so far the candidates are powerstream,iota, and the valcom, But I
haven't even seen a picture. Plus is that 12 amps only on output? that
may be a little light for my application.
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here are my friend's comments on that trailer I
mentioned:
I haven't seen trailers like that in years. It was
really small, like maybe 4 feet wide by 5 feet long.
It had short sides, maybe 18" high, like a box with no
top. It had steel brackets on the sides for tall
wooden sides, which he occasionally used. That
wouldn't matter for batteries.
The hitch on the front was a bar that ran the full
width of the trailer and was welded to two brackets on
either end. It was a hollow steel tube, probably 1.5
inches in diameter.
He had two brackets that bolted to the rear bumper of
the car which accepted the mounting bar on the
trailer. That way the trailer and the car could
negotiate the crests of hills, etc, with the hitch
acting like a horizontal pivot.
The wheel was located about 2/3 of the way back on the
bottom of the trailer. It was about the size of a
snowmobile trailer tire. It was mounted like a
caster, it could turn 360.
I could draw a picture if this isn't clear.
My only concern using something like that for
batteries is that the single tire might not be up to
the load. You could use two separate caster-mounted
wheels, I think, without screwing up cornering.
Trailers like this used to be common back in the 50's
and 60's. I'm sure someone still makes them somewhere
on earth.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don M wrote:
Trailers like this used to be common back in the 50's
and 60's. I'm sure someone still makes them somewhere
on earth.
For motorcycle hauling:
http://cruiserlift.com/swivelwheel.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Eric;
Yeah! We can still get them at Warfield/ Netgain. How many would ya
like?They run about 1500 buxFOB Frankfort Ill. I can check on the immediate
avalibility if you like. Remember Motors are selling like hotcakes in Jan.
nowadaze! A wonderful amount of interest in EV stuff.Oatmar is overwhelmed,
too.Motors are on a production run basis, and immediate availability can be
iffy.
Ok I just got off the fone with the Netgain guyz.: The Impulse 8's we
have in stock. Streight 8's are on order, no promise as to a del. date.These
are nice as to being a tad shorter than a stock one, for space challanged
applications.
As they say a t Wally*Mart' How can I help"
Seeya?
Bob, If yur in CA or Or I can bring it west for ya, save shipping!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <EV@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 5:24 PM
Subject: Netgain Warp 8" availability?
> Seems the only place selling the Netgain Warp 8" these days is the
> much-avoided "Electric Vehicles USA." I know EV Source carries Netgain,
> but only 9" (and a 9/8 hybrid) and up. I've put in inquiry to them via
> their website.
>
> Anyone have a source?
>
> --Eric
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Netgain Warp 8" availability?
> Hi Everyone,
> > That's not true - Bob rice sold me mine. Give him an email and he will
get
> > you one.
> >
> Just to clarify, the WarP 8 has been phased out. Don't be confused by
> the "ImPulse 8" which is really just a re-labeled ADC 8. On the Go-EV
> (NetGain) website, you can see that the WarP 8 has been replaced by the
> ImPulse 8:
>
> http://go-ev.com/motors-warp.html#WarP_8
>
> Who knows, maybe down the road NetGain will put out their own specially
> designed 8".
>
> I don't know if Bob had some remaining stock of the actual WarP 8's, or
> if he just sold one of the ImPulse 8's. Bob?
>
> -Ryan
> --
> Hi Ryan;
You got it! Netgain if fazing out the production of 8's the 8's he has
are really rebagdged ADC's I don't have much stock, anymore easier to drop
ship from WArfield/Netgain. They are in Chicago, sorta the center of it all,
anyhow.I have an Impulse 9 in stock, ready for adoption, delivery, I can
throw it in my trunk, GENTLY!, for delivery to Somewhere along my route to
PDX.The move at Netgain is for more POWER " Torque about it" as they say.
The 11's and 13's are moving briskly, nowadaze. But it is the good old 9"
getting to e the Gold Standard EV motor for homebuilders. A new batch will
hatch in Sept, or so into OCT.
Seeya at PIR
Bob
> - EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
> Summer Special - Free or reduced shipping on all orders over $500!
> Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi-
I am considering an ev conversion for my daily round trip commute of 22
miles. One issue that I am concerned about is the descent of 2200
vertical feet from my house into town and the accent back home. This
portion represents the first and last 5 miles of the drive with the
remainder being more or less level grade. According to my rough
calculations it should be possible to drive mountain portion at the
posted speed of 20-35mph, using enough lead acid batteries in a vehicle
that can take the weight. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
To me it seems like a waste not to recover the rather large amount of
energy on the descent through regenerative braking. It kills me everyday
to burn all of the gas getting home in my ICE just to convert that
potential energy back into heat in my brakes the next morning.
My question is, assuming I am charging the batteries at home, how can I
leave "room" for the descent energy in the batteries with out risking
their longevity. It seems like charging my batteries at work before the
trip up the mountain is probably the best solution, but I don't think it
is possible with my employer. Does anybody have a similar driving
situation? Is there a battery type (lead acid, or other) that is better
suited for this application? Thanks for any advise.
Robb
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:49 PM 8/14/2006, you wrote:
Lithium Ion with the cobolt electrode when ruptured and shorted goes
ballistic and produces a hell of a burnning mass.
But Switching to manganese eliminates the problem(creates a few more),
And Lithium polymer don't generally have the problem at all.
I believe older litium ion cells had more of an issue than the newer
versions. How many RECENT fires ?
How about the millions of notebooks Dell is currently recalling for this issue?
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:28 PM 8/14/2006, you wrote:
Hello Seth,
How I found out, if my GE-11 motor that fits a transmissions that fits a 350
cu.in. engine, is that I went to a transmission shop to look at the
different bolt patterns on the transmission.
These guys told me it will fit without even looking.
some parts guys at a auto parts store, told me it will fit without looking
it up.
Proceed with caution. I have also had salvage yard dealers, auto
parts stores, and even dealerships sell me what they assured me was
the right part (flywheel, etc.), but it was NOT.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EV Enthusiast,
This message is concerning the fraudulent and poor business practices of
Wilderness Electric Vehicle, Wilderness E.V., Wilderness EV, Owner Brain
Barrett, 380 S 370 E, Lehi, Utah 840443, PO Box 504, Lehi, Utah 84043
801-628-6509, [EMAIL PROTECTED], www.e-volks.com and the number two kit for
Ford Festiva.
I sent a check for $2,089.00 to Wilderness EV after several chats on the phone.
One month later I received the motor, plate and coupler. No motor mount so I
built my own. Several more weeks go buy and a couple of failed follow up phone
calls, to my surprise I received the rest of the parts except the 0-5K pot.
The battery terminals were wrong for the Trojan T-105 I was going to use and
the 0-100 volt gauge was just cheap. I finally was able to get a hold of
Wilderness EV and asked for a return number for the battery terminals and gauge
and asked about the pot. Brian gave me a return number for the parts and said
he would give me credit for the motor mount and send me a check. He also said
the pot was on back order and would be sent out within a few days. Two weeks
later no parts, no refund check, and no returned phone calls. I sent him two
letters which said,
"I have returned the following parts for refund on July 26, 2006.
Voltmeter $48.00
Battery cable terminals $32
I asked for a credit for motor mount $20
I have not received as of this date and have ordered for EVPart 0-5 K Pot $86
on my own via EVParts.
Please remit to me a total of $186 within in one week of this date.
Possible natural consequences of failure to comply will be:
1. Contact local business license office
2. Negative complaint with local Utah Better Business Bureau
3. Letter to Utah Attorney General for mail fraud
This is a problem for you since I sent a check to you
though the mail.
4. Your name, business will be placed on all EV web blogs and sites
as a warning
5. Small claims court
I am taking this action because of your business has poor bed side manners. You
don't return phone calls or follow up with emails as promised by your web site."
Within three days I receive a phone call from Brian and he said he had just
sent out the pot and the refund check and even gave me a tracking number. I
received both within a few days. I returned the pot to EVParts. (These are good
folks.)
I completed my 93 Ford Festiva EV within a few days and took it for a 5 mile
spin.
The car goes 35 miles an hour on flat level which is great except with one
slight problem. The take off acceleration from stop is extremely slow to the
point of being very dangerous from being rear ended and if starting from a
slight 1 degree incline it will not move at all. The 48 volt configuration
just doesn't work as advertised on his web site which states "the acceleration
is as good or better than the original VW engine at 48vdc" Wilderness EV needs
to be put out of business for selling a system that doesn't work. I was
shafted. Anyway, to my solve the problem I'm going to have to convert what I
have to a 72 volt system which requires me changing out the eight like new
Trojan T-105 for six 12 volt Trojans. I just can't add more batteries because
of weight limitations. I am also going to have to change out the controller.
Everything else should work. I will need to spend $700 for new batteries and
$700 for a 72 volt controller. I will have to sell the used T-105 a!
nd 48 volt controller.
Larry Roberts
Kennewick, Washington
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You might ask Alstom (Hornell NY motor shop) if they can give you any
information.
Don't tell them I sent you.
--
Martin K
Lawrence Harris wrote:
We have a group from the Transit Museum Society in Vancouver restoring
a 1930's Belgium electric streetcar which runs on 600V DC. They want
to replace the contactor/resistor controller with a DC chopper based
controller. I don't know where you would start so I am hoping someone
on the list has some ideas.
Their immediate concerns is to find 10uF electrolytic capacitors in
the 600 to 900 volt range and a DC breaker with a similar rating.
Thanks, Lawrence
--- End Message ---
