EV Digest 5814
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: "Torque Attack" flag ship (was Re: [seva] NEDRA @ RPM)
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Curtis Controller Rebuilder?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Cheap EV motor
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Cheap EV motor
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) EV Drag Racing Videos Wanted plus RPM Trade Show Update
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Belleville Washers
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: 48v charging question
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: A bit cleaner air on the lake today
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) 192v charging question (9A31 Dekka Intimidators)
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Cheap EV motor
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: A bit cleaner air on the lake today
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) John and Ted's Excellent Adventure...Delivering the Mail!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: A bit cleaner air on the lake today, and Sound.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Hot New RC Battery
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Hot New RC Battery
by "ROBERT GOUDREAU" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Cheap EV motor
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: 192v charging question (9A31 Dekka Intimidators)
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) eGo Vehicles update. From the Zappy list.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim,
Get an "under construction" page with the pic of the Duatsun and your super
secret siamese 9" you'll use as your secret weapon put up on the EVAlbum and
reserve your name.
(if you really have a secret weapon I didn't mean to let it out of the bag :-O
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
Hey Mike, all
You know me I hang my stuff for all the neighbors to see 8^)
Dan's got the EV bug as bad as I do, hell he's in my shop EVery day asking
whats new. He used to race and with his automotive and composit knowlege I'm
hoping we can throw together something nice. I mean come on, being owner of
Hi-Torque almost mandates I build something fast or don't build anything at
all. Being the only place I can run local is 1/8th mile it's gonna need a roll
cage and if I'm going that far I might as well tub it out or flare it for some
meats to the pavement. My goal would be to get into the 125 club
As far as motors go I was leaning toward a Siamese9 but that may change as we
move along. If I go the dual 9 route I'll shorten the length down and probably
remove a winding or two from the coils for a bit more top end, maybe put a tap
on the coils a couple turns in, which is something I've been wanting to try.
Maybe I'll turn the comms toward the middle area where I can use a short tie in
for dual adjustable brush timing and advance as we shoot down the track 8^)
Right now we're still in dream building mode. I know Wayland will crawl out of
his skin but I'm gonna rip out the whole dash and have Dan make a carbon fiber
dash if all goes as planned, I'm also hoping for some aero work on the front
end also. Talk is cheap though so we'll see what we've got this time next
year. If nothing else I hope I have a running work in progress 8^ )
I'll get some pics up of the car and the new bike hopefully this weekend.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While others are sharing their thoughts about Gone Postal, I'll share some
of mine.
The idea behind creating Gone Postal was to create a farce for the Monster
Garage TV show. Converting an old mail truck into a drag racer was a
totally
absurd idea and impossible. I think I can safely say impossible because if
the team who built it couldn't make Gone Postal into a drag racer, then
nobody could. I was surprised, impressed and pleased that GP ran as well
as it did.
So, what's to become of GP? My guess is that its racing days are over.
Maybe now is a good time to share ideas for GP, the retired race truck.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You need Logisystems in Texas.
http://www.logisystemscontrollers.com
877-381-6333
432-381-6000
LogiSystems
9910 W 64th Street
Odessa, TX 79764
USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: Curtis Controller Rebuilder?
> No. I emailed the Curtis factory directly and they quoted $1200 for a
rebuild regardless of what's wrong with the controller. Seems like they
don't want to do very many rebuilds. :^ (
>
> Patrick
>
>
> >From: Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Curtis Controller Rebuilder?
> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 12:25:48 -0400
> To: [email protected]
>
> Hi Patrick,
>
> I'm curious. Did Curtis want you to use this place?
> http://www.fsip.biz/
>
> -Dave
>
> On Aug 30, 2006, at 12:02 PM, Patrick Maston wrote:
>
> > Hello. Does anyone on the list rebuild Curtis controllers? I have a
> > 1231C that I want to have rebuilt. I asked Curtis about it and they
> > want almost as much as a new controller.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Patrick
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd love to put 120volts of NiCads and a Curtis controller to this mother
sized motor. I'd like to use a Rebel frame stretched to fit all the
batteries. Seems like with me on it I'd have a total weight of 1000 pounds.
Maybe a pinch too much but the tires on the Rebel will take about 1200
pounds. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap EV motor
> Hey all
>
> I'll try and pick one up and see how many teeth this camel has by
counting them instead of speculating 8^) I have Lee's back on this one as
I believe it has some real potential! Even if the coils turn out to be
unfit for an EV, GE makes a lot of these 1344 size motors and I'll shop
around for some cheap salvage series coils 8^ )
>
> I have no idea what's with that data tag as a motor that size would pull
20 to 30 amps just running free at 12 volts and could pull hundreds of amps
at much higher current for long periods of time without breaking a sweat, at
least I know the arm can 8^). It wouldn't surprise me if in fact this motor
even has the heavy duty cast brass holders to boot!
>
> Anyway I thought I'd chime in once again on this thread. I'll have to
put off buying one for a bit but if I can get one before they are gone I'll
keep you all appraised.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
> Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jeff Major wrote:
> > 2 Hp at 1050 RPM gives 10 lb ft running torque at 72 amps. Not an
> > exact way of doing things, but in ball park....10 lb ft divided by
> > 72 amps gives 0.138 lb ft per amp. So if you have 500 amp limit
> > controller, expect around 70 lb ft max torque.
>
> That's a conservative approximation. For a series motor, torque is
> proportional to current squared. Since this is a compound motor, it has
> both series and shunt fields so torque will be somewhat less; perhaps
> current ^ 1.5.
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ordered one of these motors and will be working with Jim to find out what
they can do
... now just need a controller and charger, hehe
will be posting pics of the outside and insides once it arrives and video
after I get it running :o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap EV motor
Hey all
I'll try and pick one up and see how many teeth this camel has by
counting them instead of speculating 8^) I have Lee's back on this one
as I believe it has some real potential! Even if the coils turn out to be
unfit for an EV, GE makes a lot of these 1344 size motors and I'll shop
around for some cheap salvage series coils 8^ )
I have no idea what's with that data tag as a motor that size would pull
20 to 30 amps just running free at 12 volts and could pull hundreds of
amps at much higher current for long periods of time without breaking a
sweat, at least I know the arm can 8^). It wouldn't surprise me if in
fact this motor even has the heavy duty cast brass holders to boot!
Anyway I thought I'd chime in once again on this thread. I'll have to
put off buying one for a bit but if I can get one before they are gone
I'll keep you all appraised.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jeff Major wrote:
2 Hp at 1050 RPM gives 10 lb ft running torque at 72 amps. Not an
exact way of doing things, but in ball park....10 lb ft divided by
72 amps gives 0.138 lb ft per amp. So if you have 500 amp limit
controller, expect around 70 lb ft max torque.
That's a conservative approximation. For a series motor, torque is
proportional to current squared. Since this is a compound motor, it has
both series and shunt fields so torque will be somewhat less; perhaps
current ^ 1.5.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Folks
ALERT!
Our copy of "Sucking Amps EV Racing" [the Gone Postal build] is not working
for us. We need a copy that we can play in Real/Quicktime/Windows Media
ASAP.
IMPORTANT!
Please... DO NOT send ANY videos to the Hotmail address that this is sent
from.
My gmail account should hold them-
lektwik [at] gmail [dot] com
We need more drag racing vids than are available on the net, If you have any
you would be willing to email to me ASAP I would certainly appreciate it.
Thanks!
We are getting a lot more interest in EVs than expected at the show :^D
These folks see the writing on the wall as to the future of fossil fuel use.
A lot of them will walk up and say "I never even knew this existed!"
Two more days to go!
Thanks Again!
Roy
...
Roy LeMeur
NEDRA NW Regional Director
www.nedra.com
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would this be against the rules? to automatic?
Make the front drive master and the rear drive slave.
Use the amps of the shunt up front to set the throttle in back * some
adjustable factor.
How can this be accomplished? Perhaps the hairballs could be
"networked" and some custom code be written for master/slave operation.
Give 1/2 second off throttle delay so the lift during shifts doesn't
un-power the rear and upset the suspension too much.
Got speed sensors and direct drive, perhaps the front speed sensor on
the wheel is used (times a factor ) to limit the rear rpm to match + 5%
Maybe the racers dual axke hairball is in order.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Brown swears by them, and since he has a ton of
miles, I've always used them as well. He sells them
for dirt cheap.
Do they work? Well the goal is to keep pressure on
the lug and terminal as the lead slowly flows. Can
you still melt a terminal b/c you haven't tightened it
in a year or two? Likely. Does it help? Likely.
--- Fred Hartsell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Has anyone ever used the Belleville washers on
> batteries? If so then do
> they work?
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So you are running 3 Powercheqs on 4 batteries? Can you tell if the green
light on the Powercheq between #2 and #3 battery is
flashing? They should be regulating across the #3 and #4 batteries. If not
there may be a problem with them, you should cheq
their fuses.
Are the batteries new? If they are resting at about the same voltage but the
voltage won't come up on the lower two they may have
a problem if they are older.
The other thing you could try if you have 12V charger is to individually charge
the low ones each by themselves for a few cycles.
Then if the powercheqs are indeed working they should be able to keep each
battery balanced with the others.
Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Green VW
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:50 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: 48v charging question
>
>
> I am charging a new string of Deka Intimidators using a K&W BC-20
> charger. Prior to connecting the charger each battery measured 12.4 to
> 12.6 volts. Measuring the charging voltage across the string I get
> 58.3 volts. I expected to get voltage readings across each individual
> battery in the 14.5v range during bulk charging but instead get reading
> of 13.0v on the most positive battery, 13.3v on battery 2, 15.79v on
> battery 3 and 15.95v on the most negative battery. Anyone have any
> ideas on why? The readings stay the same whether the Powercheq regs
> are connected or not
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ah.
I misread one of your earlier discussions that mentioned 8HP and
thought that's what you were putting out. I see now that's not right.
Any advice for getting about 180lbs thrust as inexpensively as possible?
Mike
PS - Should this be on the electric boats list, or is this welcome here?
On 8/30/06, Stefan T. Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mike Ellis wrote:
> Wow, that is so temping. We have a 16" plain jane aluminum fishing
> boat. I know how it ran on a 9.9HP Johnson. An 8HP equivalent would be
> just fine for our purposes (getting our junk to the cottage - we have
> no road access), and we tend to use it only for a total of 30 minutes
> per weekend (more if fishing, but that would be very low speed).
>
> Sounds perfect!
>
> -Mike
>
Well, for that hull you're not going to want to run such a small setup
as me. If you want more then tepid speed, you'll need at least 50-60lbs
of thrust... I think an 80 would give you a decent push. Two bats in
parallel would definitely make a bit more sense. Or just run a 24V
system ;-)
A typical 4-5HP 4cycle outboard gives you 140-180lbs of thrust. And this
is with a prop that is geared "higher" to give you a better top speed in
exchange for less low-end grunt. I'm running a 1/2HP equivalent setup
with a prop that tops out at less then 10knots... which is why I said
the particular hull is part of the equation. The difference between
individual water-based "gliders" and their two and four wheeled cousins
appears much greater. One boat will take 30A to go 5knots, another one
(of the same general size even) might take three to four times that.
--
Stefan T. Peters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First the shift blanking is NOT available on the Zilla.
It was on the Raptors and T-Rexes..
What I want is full control of the Fronts with pedal control, But have the
back lock full on until brake is applied. That way I Can play with clutch
and throttle and amps and RPM shift points while the Back just does it's
thing.
We Could... make both systems isolated as far as the pack feeding the
breakers to controller. We have them hooked up so wa can charge both packs
at once.
But... I am not sure that will help us at all.
Madman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So I had my first "limp home the last 3 miles at 20mph" day. I took some
extra trips at lunch and decided not to recharge since
usually 25 miles of running around gets me home at ~60% SOC. This number
however is really only based on resting voltage. Since
I don't have my Breugmann meter installed yet I can't see voltage at a certain
current load. Shortly after 200 miles or so of the
break-in period I did put a 30 mile and a 35 mile run and got home and at
193.6V (12.1 Vpb) which by the chart says ~52%. I
realize this is not an accurate mesaure of state of charge but its the
benchmark I'm watching until I get the finer details
working on the truck. So today I ran easy accelerations and under 45mph and
got about 25 miles into my running around and about 3
miles from home and the power just dumped. I barely got home doing 20mph.
After an hour rest before checking the voltage (which
is what I typically do) it read 189V (11.8 Vpb).
So I got to thinking about my charging profile and wondering if I'm just not
putting as much energy into them as I should. Since
I don't yet have a 220Vac outlet in the garage I'm running the PFC20 at just
under max to keep from tripping the 20A line breaker.
I figure its bulk charging at around 7-8 amps DC. I'm regulating the PFC20 at
226Vdc (14.125 Vpb) and then going on the timer for
60 minutes. So I know I'm going light on the charge cycle. The question I
have is until I can push the full 20 amps from the
PFC20 from a 220Vac outlet, what should I do to get closer to full charge on
the batteries. Should I increase the regulation
voltage to 14.3 or 14.4 Vpb? or/and increase the acceptance charge time to more
than 60 minutes?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Umm Hello Tom
First GP was buildt for the Discovery channel... NOT Monster Garage. One was
two yeard before the other.
Monster Garage Episode #83 I think was done in December '05, I was the Build
crew leader.
We buildt a 62 Chevy Bell Air.. with 2 two motors from Shawn Lawless's
dragster.
And We have better top speeds With Gp than with the Mg Car.
I think Rod had a 98mph But I think MG had a better ET with a 14.53 at 93.33
mph.
So a VERY good argument would be the Gone Postal and the Monster Garage Car
shoot out.
Lots of Old lead VS spaning new Lion.
I would root for Gp.. it has more of my blood in it. And I know how to make
it Faster.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: My thoughts on Gone Postal and the quest for data
> While others are sharing their thoughts about Gone Postal, I'll share some
> of mine.
>
> The idea behind creating Gone Postal was to create a farce for the Monster
> Garage TV show. Converting an old mail truck into a drag racer was a
> totally
> absurd idea and impossible. I think I can safely say impossible because
if
> the team who built it couldn't make Gone Postal into a drag racer, then
> nobody could. I was surprised, impressed and pleased that GP ran as well
> as it did.
>
> So, what's to become of GP? My guess is that its racing days are over.
> Maybe now is a good time to share ideas for GP, the retired race truck.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
The particular motor in this sub-thread (10-1422) is listed as "series
wound". Your original motor posted was the 10-2120.
E
Lee Hart wrote:
Jeff Major wrote:
2 Hp at 1050 RPM gives 10 lb ft running torque at 72 amps. Not an
exact way of doing things, but in ball park....10 lb ft divided by
72 amps gives 0.138 lb ft per amp. So if you have 500 amp limit
controller, expect around 70 lb ft max torque.
That's a conservative approximation. For a series motor, torque is
proportional to current squared. Since this is a compound motor, it has
both series and shunt fields so torque will be somewhat less; perhaps
current ^ 1.5.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
a socket for it.
http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
them.
Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
today.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Ellis wrote:
Ah.
I misread one of your earlier discussions that mentioned 8HP and
thought that's what you were putting out. I see now that's not right.
Any advice for getting about 180lbs thrust as inexpensively as possible?
Mike
PS - Should this be on the electric boats list, or is this welcome here?
Have nooo idea on the second question, as for the first:
http://glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=14&sid=c8bab6201d6b8d52255f029b4cb960a7
http://www.mindspring.com/~jimkerr1/sebc&t.htm
http://www.psnw.com/~jmrudholm/etekoutboard.html
And my favorite fishing boat conversion so far:
http://www.bassfishingnetwork.com/articles/phelix.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Back in July I had written:
>Sob....though I've been in, under, and all around GP, I've never had a
ride :-(
That's all been changed. With all the current talk about Gone Postal,
instead of 'talk', I've been out driving it! Yeah, the rad postal van
sits behind the locked gate here at the Wayland EV Juice Bar as I write
this. What a beast it is!
I got to take it home after Saturday night's racing, a calm and
get-to-know-one-another 16 mile drive back home....just me and GP. It
helped take my mind off the fact that I had just relinquished control
and possession of White Zombie to FT and Roy to send it halfway across
the country to the RPM trade show. Arriving at my backyard EV shop, I
stuffed lots of juice back into all 40, yes, count 'em, all 40 of the
thirsty Exide Orbitals. I topped the twin-twenty 240V packs off the next
morning before taking it out for a spin.
Going out the back door of my neighborhood onto a wide open road, with
the front drive in 2nd gear and the rear drives kicked in, at around 20
mph I decided to stomp on it and see just what this machine had in
it....OH MY GAWD!!! Instantly, I had my hands full, as the full fury of
twin Zillas, twin 8s, a pissed off 9 in front, and 40 warmed up and
rock'n Orbitals simply mauled me up to perhaps 50 mph in, what, maybe a
second??? The torque was massive and it felt as if I was riding a bull
trying to buck me off! Where White Zombie feels brutal, this thing feels
possessed! If the forces behind this project ever get the planets all
aligned in just the right order, I have no doubts that this 4300 lb.
brick monster can run low12s (perhaps a high 11) and an easy 115 mph.
It was Sunday afternoon's drive and ride sessions with Car and Driver's
Ted West, however, that was over the top...both of us had a Rod Wilde
style EV grin plastered on our faces! Yeah, Ted and I finished up the
final interviews, then we decided 'he' needed to do a test drive in GP.
We even had an excuse, as we had time slips to make copies of and
instead of using my FAX copier, we drove GP to the local Kinko's copy
center. I explained to Ted all the weird quirks of GP, explained the
rear drive vs the front drive system, showed him what all the meters
covered, and warned him that it took a real man to pilot the thing...and
with that, we were off on John and Ted's excellent adventure.
After he got used to the 'very' manual steering, the skull shifter knob
with funky front drive shift linkage, the strange throttle-brake-clutch
pedal positions, and the 'very' manual brakes...oh yeah, and driving
with the slider doors open on the 'right' side of the vehicle, Ted
started to get the hang of GP. I set him up to make the same 20-50 mph
full throttle body-bruising trial when Ted put the pedal to the metal
and just about planted us in the bushes from the excessive tire burn
that ensued.....I 'think' the Orbitals were waking up from a deep
slumber! Ted was astounded, perhaps more so than his White Zombie
experiences, and the look on his face is hard to describe! He 'did'
correct me, saying it didn't take a mere 'man' to drive GP....it took a
'Rod' to drive it!
Perhaps the best part, was when we were stopped at a light and a couple
of nice ladies in a Honda were checking GP out. It was another hot
August Oregon day, so their windows were down and our slider doors were
open. The looks on their faces were priceless as they scanned from front
to back and front again, Gone Postal's outrageousness. Chip Gribben's
pissed-off Eagle across the side was a big clue this wasn't your average
mail truck....or was it the monster wide tires and high mounted rear
wing? I was in what is normally the driver's seat, with Ted on my right,
his right hand still gripping the skull shift knob. They were in the
left lane, so I was face to face with the lady passenger when she said
"What have you done to that mail truck...you aren't real mailmen, 'R'
you?" I responded in a matter of fact way, "Got any mail you want me to
take care of?" With simultaneous laughter, they both said essentially
the same, "Somehow, I don't think that would be legal". The light then
changed and we motored away. Ted's got way too much material!
Hmmm....I wonder if PIR is running Friday night drags this weekend?
See Ya........John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
Having more fun than any EVer should be allowed to have!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
could you weld a couple of ball bearings into an oversized socket for those
nuts?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL" <[email protected]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 1:03 AM
Subject: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
a socket for it.
http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
them.
Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
today.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: A bit cleaner air on the lake today
> Mike Ellis wrote:
> > Ah.
> >
> > I misread one of your earlier discussions that mentioned 8HP and
> > thought that's what you were putting out. I see now that's not right.
> >
> > Any advice for getting about 180lbs thrust as inexpensively as possible?
> >
> > Mike
> > Hi EVerybody;
Gees! 180 lbs? That SHOULD move a displacment hull boat along just
fine?This afternoon I put my Sunfish Sailboat" Sailing Submarine" in LI
Sound, after restoring it. Wanted to get out on the water before it freezes
over! Lovely lite breeze, clipped along like a sailboat does. Youse sailing
folks know about that. Of couse they shut the wind off at night here, so I
was slowly sailing along in one place.#$%&! Embarrasing, but time and TIDE
wait for nobody!The nautical equivelent of being on a treadmill!A kindly
couple motored(engined) by and offered me a tow. Instead of a towline, he
pulled aside me, and I just held on, with one hand, as he towed me along
faster than I had sailed all afternoon, steering with the tiller/rudder, I
kept the two hulls apart, and just glided along. Thinking, boy, slower speed
boats just don't NEED alota "Push" or power to go! I'm taking a trolling
motor and dynisty 12 volt battery NEXT time, I can "Motor" in as needed,
dignity intact.
As A Netgain dealer I get calls all the time, guy wants to put a 9 or11
motor in a boat. Wants tp plane off, Maybe Waterski? and go 40 miles" Well,
the CARS go that far"Ya gotta let them down easy, isn't a motor issue, but
the batterys common people can buy, IS the issue.It's right up there with
the generator on the front wheel thing.
> > PS - Should this be on the electric boats list, or is this welcome here?
> >Yeah! Whatthehell it IS summer<g>!EV could mean Electric Vessel, too?
My two sails worth
Bob
>
> Have nooo idea on the second question, as for the first:
>
>
http://glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=14&sid=c8bab6201d6b8d52255f029b4cb960a7
> http://www.mindspring.com/~jimkerr1/sebc&t.htm
> http://www.psnw.com/~jmrudholm/etekoutboard.html
>
> And my favorite fishing boat conversion so far:
>
> http://www.bassfishingnetwork.com/articles/phelix.html
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.7/433 - Release Date: 8/30/06
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The newest hot one seems to be the IB4200. It is a Nimh C cell, only
68 grams. It can belt out 35 amps, and still be at the nominal 1.2
Volts! It has about 1/2 the internal resistance of the next best cell
(that I know about, anyway). Some guys on the web claim they can pull
200 Amps from these things! I saw a chart claiming you could pull 70
Amps for 2 minutes!
I got these specs from several web sites, nothing personally
verified. If you can believe the specs, they are not too far behind
A123 Lithium batteries. Costs I saw were about $9 / cell.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 09:46 PM 30/08/06 -0700, Madman wrote:
What I want is full control of the Fronts with pedal control, But have the
back lock full on until brake is applied. That way I Can play with clutch
and throttle and amps and RPM shift points while the Back just does it's
thing.
G'day Rich, and All
Well what you're asking for sound dead easy, put a relay in that swaps the
wipers over from the potbox to a 'dash' mounted pot, click the relay in
from a switch that operates on full throttle, and drop it off from the
brakes. Don't forget a 'dash' switch to turn it off again.
But I guess you already figured that out, what you meant to say is you want
is to get access when Rods' back is turned to implement this?!! (Sneak over
to Johns' place, quick!)
Have fun!
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Schumi behind those batteries !
http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=745
On 8/31/06, David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The newest hot one seems to be the IB4200. It is a Nimh C cell, only
68 grams. It can belt out 35 amps, and still be at the nominal 1.2
Volts! It has about 1/2 the internal resistance of the next best cell
(that I know about, anyway). Some guys on the web claim they can pull
200 Amps from these things! I saw a chart claiming you could pull 70
Amps for 2 minutes!
I got these specs from several web sites, nothing personally
verified. If you can believe the specs, they are not too far behind
A123 Lithium batteries. Costs I saw were about $9 / cell.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, you and Chris are getting some great results. I know you've probably
already mentioned it,
but what charger are you using?
Dave Cover
--- Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
> but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
> before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
> a socket for it.
>
> http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
>
> These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
> have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
> under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
> are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
> them.
>
> Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
> miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
> medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
> lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
> more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
> cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
> today.
>
> Mike
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree my ball park calculation is probably conseravtive for several reasons,
but not the one you mention. Series motor torque is only proprotional to
square of armature current below knee of saturation curve. High loads,
approaching stall, will certianly take mmf higher than knee and no longer
provide proprotional increase in flux, so the squared rule will not apply.
jeff
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jeff Major wrote:
> 2 Hp at 1050 RPM gives 10 lb ft running torque at 72 amps. Not an
> exact way of doing things, but in ball park....10 lb ft divided by
> 72 amps gives 0.138 lb ft per amp. So if you have 500 amp limit
> controller, expect around 70 lb ft max torque.
That's a conservative approximation. For a series motor, torque is
proportional to current squared. Since this is a compound motor, it has
both series and shunt fields so torque will be somewhat less; perhaps
current ^ 1.5.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mike,
It may be best to check a WEB site for the maintenance and care of the Dekka
batteries.
This is what I did for my Trojan batteries, which I printed out a 25 page
manual.
I am using 180V pack of Trojan T-145's and the recommended charge is 222
volts at battery temperature of 80 F. or 14.8 volts per 12 volt battery.
The equalize charge which I do every 3 months or so, is to 234 volts or 15.6
volts per 12 volt battery.
Add .028 volt per cell for every 10 F. below 80 F.
Subtract .028 volt per cell for every 10 F. above 80 F.
For your 192 battery pack, the bulk charge could be 236.8 volts at 14.8V for
each battery.
The equalizing charge could be as high as 250 volts.
I normally charge when my batteries just get below the 80% SOC in the 70's
SOC my batteries at the 14.8 volt rate for the last 5 years.
I am using a PFC-50 that I charge at 35 amps, (the recommended maximum
charge for my T-145's) at 80 F. I have charge at 50 amps at 60 F.
In either case, the bulk charge takes only 30 to 40 minutes, and the time
out takes 35 minutes for my ampere to drop below 5 amps.
50 amps x 0.10 = 5 amps and the voltage must still must be above 12.8V per
battery. This is at the point that the battery may be at 99.9 to 100%
charge.
If you charge at 30 amps, then the ending charge current should be should be
just below 3 amps and your battery pack voltage should be above 16 x 12.8V
or 204.8 volts.
The specific gravity should be between 1.275 to 1.277 SG. for a full charge
battery.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 10:44 PM
Subject: 192v charging question (9A31 Dekka Intimidators)
> So I had my first "limp home the last 3 miles at 20mph" day. I took some
> extra trips at lunch and decided not to recharge since
> usually 25 miles of running around gets me home at ~60% SOC. This number
> however is really only based on resting voltage. Since
> I don't have my Breugmann meter installed yet I can't see voltage at a
> certain current load. Shortly after 200 miles or so of the
> break-in period I did put a 30 mile and a 35 mile run and got home and at
> 193.6V (12.1 Vpb) which by the chart says ~52%. I
> realize this is not an accurate mesaure of state of charge but its the
> benchmark I'm watching until I get the finer details
> working on the truck. So today I ran easy accelerations and under 45mph
> and got about 25 miles into my running around and about 3
> miles from home and the power just dumped. I barely got home doing 20mph.
> After an hour rest before checking the voltage (which
> is what I typically do) it read 189V (11.8 Vpb).
>
>
> So I got to thinking about my charging profile and wondering if I'm just
> not putting as much energy into them as I should. Since
> I don't yet have a 220Vac outlet in the garage I'm running the PFC20 at
> just under max to keep from tripping the 20A line breaker.
> I figure its bulk charging at around 7-8 amps DC. I'm regulating the
> PFC20 at 226Vdc (14.125 Vpb) and then going on the timer for
> 60 minutes. So I know I'm going light on the charge cycle. The question
> I have is until I can push the full 20 amps from the
> PFC20 from a 220Vac outlet, what should I do to get closer to full charge
> on the batteries. Should I increase the regulation
> voltage to 14.3 or 14.4 Vpb? or/and increase the acceptance charge time to
> more than 60 minutes?
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, Ak.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
eGo Vehicles update
Posted by: "Stephen Hodgdon" [EMAIL PROTECTED] hodgdon2
Date: Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:25 am (PDT)
This week I sent a nasty-gram to eGo Vehicles lamenting how they
pissed away all the great equity eGo had once created with their
stellar reputation for great customer service and support. I was
pretty harsh.
The new owner, Matthew Huntington, emailed me back, apologized, and
explained what's going on at the company.
Matthew is owner of Emerging Vehicles, an e-bike company in
Cambridge, Mass. He said that eGo Vehicles was struggling and about
to go out of business. As a dealer who loved the product, he didn't
want to see that happen, so at the last minute he and a partner
bought what was left of the company to keep it alive. Because of the
sudden business transaction, they weren't well prepared and
encountered many challenges bringing inventory and making
operations "current" and moving all operations to Cambridge.
".as bad as this Summer's been for customer service and parts
availability, we are definitely getting better," he promised.
Let's hope. I'm willing to cut them some lack so that they can get
the company back on its feet again.
- Steve in NH
--- End Message ---
