EV Digest 5819
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Ryan's new EV grin ... upside-down
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Battery voltage monitor
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Cableform Speed Control Module Needed
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Last Saturday's Oregonian 'Electric Drag Racer' Article
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Understanding EV design relationships
by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery cable needed
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Bladez electric scooter
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Last Saturday's Oregonian 'Electric Drag Racer' Article
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Practical questions: 144V & 1000A
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Another range question
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Karman Ghia vs Baha Bug vs Thing vs Kit Bug
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Cableform Speed Control Module Needed
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Goodyear tire selection for light trucks.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Cuirb weights. Lets start a list.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Capturing Zilla data at the drag strip
by "Chris Brune" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) broken e-brake suggestions?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: broken e-brake suggestions?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Ryan
Sure you didn't know, probably plugged into the Chevron Corp office plugs,
LMAO. Well glad all went okay as it could have been worse, like having it
towed away, without them unplugging it first 8^ o
Cya
Jim Husted
Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi everyone,
Jim, it was nice to hear of others having an EV Grin day. My EV Grin
went upside-down for a little while today. Here's the story - and it
re-drives a point home to all of us to be careful where we plug in.
Without all the gory details, I've been plugging in at a certain
location with permission. Recently, I had to park a little ways from
the original location. I made the incorrect assumption that the
electricity from the outlets at the new location were payed for by the
same organization from which I had permission. I was wrong, and just
about got impounded. Fortunately, someone that knew me caught wind of
it all before the EV got towed off.
So a word to the wise - make *sure* you have permission before plugging
in. It's also a good idea to make sure the spot you're parking in
doesn't cause problems either.
-Ryan
Oh, BTW, I did put about 25 miles on the EV today - my grin was present
then :)
--
- EV Source -
Summer Special - Free or reduced shipping on all orders over $500!
Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Will,
I need to get you my membership dues.
Lee is right. There isn't much unless you make your own.
The other alternative that I'm setting up for is using a modified
version of Gordon Stallings monitor. He uses a PS8602 opto on each
battery. Keeps pack voltage out of the cabin. It can be set up to
drive an LED with varying brightness. Gordon's uses reverse logic. The
higher the batt voltage the lower the opto output voltage. I changed
it around to get higher opto output with higher voltage in the
battery. Now it works from about 10.5v to 15v. All of the optos are
run to a central box that has a pot for each battery for calibration.
The varying brightness led concept works well as I've seen it in
Eddy's Saturn. 28 led's and you can tell in a second which batt is low
or high. During charge or motoring. Plus you can see that if there are
groups of batts at differing temperatures that the LED's will show
this in patterns of brightness. But again, you'd have to make it. With
only 13 batterys you won't have alot of work. I'm planning on using a
db25 connector to the wall of the battery box. Then from there run a
ribbon cable to the dash to drive the led's. They will need a 5v supply.
Upscale from that, Gordon's system has an LCD display showing a
vertical bar graph of each battery. Very sweet.
You can find Gordon's setup via Google.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Will Beckett (becketts) wrote:
> > I would like to monitor my 13 12vdc batteries while I am driving.
> > I have the connections to use but need something to display the
> > voltage of each battery... looking for a simple solution that
> > doesn't cost too much. I am more interested in seeing if there is
> > a major difference between the batteries than accuracy. Any ideas?
>
> This subject has been cussed and discussed many times. There are as many
> solutions as there are individuals.
>
> To me, the simplest solution is a single LED per battery. Put a resistor
> and zener in series, so it barely lights at 10.5v and is fully lit at
> 15v. You can't measure actual voltage this way, but the human eye is
> extremely good at spotting brightness *differences*.
>
> If you want something a bit more sophisticated, use thirteen edgewise
> voltmeters, mounted side-by-side. Again, a series resistor and zener
> makes them expanded-scale voltmeters, reading from (say) 10-15v.
>
> Beyond that, you can have 13 circuits that measure the voltages and
> display them in some fashion (bargraphs, 7-segment displays, etc.
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
New member here, from Fairfield, Ioway. EV: 1981 Ford Fairmont Current
Fare by EVA, Cableform guts, running on 10+1 12v (I wanted to keep the
thing lighter and use it for a 12 mile round trip commute, which it just
does). Yay!
When I started to set it up I found that the accelerator control module
was missing, so I'm running it on one that Todd Debrowsky from Florida
was kind enough to lend me. It's a Cableform (Pulsomatic) MK-X #3112-3-2
and looks like a square gray box about 6X6X2 with a swing arm on the side
for the accelerator cable. Question: does anyone have or know the
whereabouts a used one?
I'd me much obliged for some help in tracking one down.
Regards,
Mark Stimson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
As many know, out West there has been a frenzy of positive publicity in
regards to the NEDRA electric drag racing thing, from television to
magazines to newspapers, there's been a lot going on. A couple of weeks
ago I gave an interview with 'The Oregonian', Oregon's largest
newspaper, and Tim and I took time for a second day's photo session,
too. The deal was, that we'd give our time, if the paper would run the
article in the Thursday edition of the sports page prior to the Late
Night Drags races, for the obvious reason to help promote the races and
draw in folks who might otherwise not know about them. We were told the
article was scheduled for Thursday's paper.
Well, Thursday came and went, so did Friday...nothing in the paper, and
a huge disappointment for us. Of course, when it was too late to help
us, the article appeared in the Saturday paper, the day of the last
night of racing :-( It's unfortunate, too, as it is a pretty positive
article that had a nice largish photo of White Zombie looking pretty
bad-ass with a backdrop of tire smoke (not a lot of smoke, but just
enough to look mean and nasty). The other bummer, is that they only
showed my old man's fat head photo, not Tim's much preferred younger
look. When the photographer said she needed 'head shots', I asked her
specifically, that if only one photo escaped the cutting room floor,
that it be the car's driver Tim Brehm's photo, not mine, and reinforced
my desire to promote the EV cause involving younger people to keep the
whole thing fresh. Oh well.
For anyone interested, here's the article copy:
From the Sports section of the Oregonian, Saturday 8-26-06
"Electric Drag Racer shocks Disbelievers" (title was in very large print)
John Wayland says his battery-powered Datsun can go from 0 to 60 mph in
3.5 seconds
Saturday, August 26, 2006
DOUG BINDER
Inside John Wayland's garage in east Portland are two of the most
unusual 1972 Datsuns one might ever see. One is white and covered in
sponsor decals. It is a little drag racer with enormous power, known as
"White Zombie."
The other is blue, polished, with immaculate interior and a
state-of-the-art stereo. Cheryl, John's wife, sometimes drives the
whisper-quiet car, named the "Blue Meanie," to the grocery store.
Together, both are examples of the way Wayland has turned his childhood
dreams of driving cars powered by batteries into reality. They also are
evidence of his role as one of the area's pioneering spirits in a
technology that might one day turn the automotive industry on its ear.
It all started 10 years ago when, over beers with two other EV (electric
vehicle) enthusiasts, the idea of NEDRA -- the National Electric Drag
Racing Association -- was hatched. "We thought it was kind of funny to
create a national organization when there was just three of us," Wayland
said. But today, NEDRA does feel national. Wayland said there are
quickly growing branches in Florida, another in the Washington, D.C.,
area, and points in between. And tonight, NEDRA's Late Night Nationals
conclude a two-day run at the Portland International Raceway. The track
opens at 6 p.m. with racing until midnight.
The electric-car phenomenon has taken a lot of people by surprise.
"We used to go down to Woodburn and get laughed at," Wayland said. "Not
anymore."
These days, Wayland regularly blows the doors off traditional dragsters
with the White Zombie. The tame-looking car develops 772 pound-feet of
torque (compared with 525 from a Dodge Viper). That allows the car to
rocket from 0 to 60 mph in 3.5 seconds. "It feels like being shot out of
a cannon," Wayland said.
He loves giving guests the thrill of a ride. It never fails to produce,
he said, the "EV grin."
Wayland's best quarter-mile was timed in 12.151 seconds, which comes out
to 106.25 mph. That might make White Zombie the world's quickest and
fastest street-legal electric sedan. Which, Wayland contends, shows that
electric cars are no longer a novelty. In fact, the true mission of
NEDRA is more than competitive racing. It tries to shed a light on the
advantage of electric engines over internal-combustion engines.
"We call each other EV-angelists," Wayland said. "We want clean air. We
want independence from foreign oil. If you talk to anybody in NEDRA,
about 75 percent of it showing people this is the way we should be
going. But we're also having a good time racing high-performance muscle
cars."
Wayland, 54, bought the Datsun that he converted into Blue Meanie in
1980 for $190. The first time he test-drove it out of his garage, it
crept so slowly a police officer thought Wayland was prowling. The
officer flashed her lights to pull Wayland over, but he couldn't get the
car to stop. When it was slow enough to hop out, he ran to raise the
hood and unplug a cable. The officer drew her gun.She approached,
cautiously, as Wayland got the car to stop rolling. "What are you
doing?" she demanded, looking into the vacant engine compartment.
"Where's the motor?" "There isn't one," he remembers telling her. "It's
electric."
"When electric cars started out," Wayland said, joking, "they were 1,200
pounds of golf cart batteries that did 0 to 60 in nine hours. I wanted
performance. I wanted the EV grin. I knew it could happen."
In 1994, Wayland bought the car that became White Zombie for $580.
Several years ago, after he was laid off from his job, the car helped
him find a new career as a forklift mechanic at Northwest Handling Systems.
"They asked if I had any experience, and I said 'No,' " Wayland said.
"They asked if I had a resume, and I said, 'It's out in the parking
lot.' " After a wheel-screeching demonstration, Wayland was hired.
At a recent drag-race event, White Zombie went head-to-head with an
ultra-fast Toyota Supra. "It was probably a $60,000 car," Wayland said.
"Really fast. I knew he'd beat us." Still, the little Datsun beat the
Supra off the line, only to be passed at the end of the quarter-mile.
"Afterward, I went to go congratulate the guy and I couldn't find him,"
Wayland said. "Turns out, he was at my car checking it out."
Making converts, and changing perceptions, is a big part of Wayland's
passion. NEDRA counts about 50 members, but the ideas behind the
organization are catching on. "We're politically correct and we're out
there burning rubber on the weekends and having a good time," Wayland said.
He is an avid supporter of the recently released documentary, "Who
Killed The Electric Car?" a movie that examines the forces that ended
General Motors' initial push into making a line of electric cars for the
public. Wayland believes the technology of lithium-ion batteries and
their next generation, lithium-polymer, will hasten the day another
manufacturer markets electric cars to the public.
"I'm a dreamer but also a realist," Wayland said. "Ten years ago, I
don't think I would have said it. But yes, I think the day is coming
soon. A lot of things are happening right now."
Doug Binder: 503-221-8166; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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--- Begin Message ---
The LH2015 looks good, but online prices are $495. Can I buy yours for
$150? :)
B&K Precision has one through Digikey, 367A, that is $209, think i'll
buy that one unless I hear otherwise.
Jack
Rick Todd wrote:
Jack,
I actually just purchased a new clamp on meter from fluke about 2 months ago
and have been happy with it.
This is the link,
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/LH2015.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&;
Category=CLMP(FlukeProducts)
It was about $130 from my local supply house.
Regards,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jack Murray
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 12:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
I need to buy a clamp-on Amp meter, I prefer one that can handle 2000A, both
AC and DC.
Prefer it not to cost a lot of course, but I don't want any junk either.
Anyone have suggestions?
thanks,
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Recently I saw some interesting posts on the relationship between weight,
voltage and range in EV's. I can't seem to find them in the archives to
review so I'll ask my questions here:
The platform in this example is my '81 Comuta Van (of course). 12 hp motor,
72v system, 1221b Curtis controller ([EMAIL PROTECTED] amps).
The current battery configuration is:
12, 6v Exide Stowaways (Sam's Club specials). Total pack weight is 744 lbs.
@ 62 lbs. each. These batteries are rated at 186 [EMAIL PROTECTED] amps according to
data I found posted by another EV'er a while back. Currently, I get 40 miles
at 72f, driven very conservatively.
Configuration A: If I use 9, 8v Trojan T-890's (69lbs.)I will save 123 lbs.
of dead weight and the batteries are rated at a similar value of 190 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
amps.
Configuration B: If I use 9 8v Trojan T-875's (63lbs) I will save 177 lbs.
of weight and the batteries are rated at 170 [EMAIL PROTECTED] amps.
Configuration C: If I use 10 or 12 8v Trojan's (either 890 or 875) I will
have 80 or 96 volts so I'll go faster but my wieght will be the same or
-more- than my original configuration so I may suffer an unacceptable range
loss.
Being as these 8v batteries are close in rating to the 6v El-Cheapo
Stowaways I now use, what will configurations A, B & C do to my performance?
I'm not trying to turn the Comuta Van into a baby "Gone Postal" but I'd like
to make it a little better if I can.
My theories range from "no real difference" to "slightly faster
acceleration" to "longer range but same acceleration". My goal is maximum
speed, maximum acceleration and maximum range within the configurations
listed above.
Please feel free to poke holes in my proposals. My hope is that you guys
will tell me that 80v or 96v will make me go faster with a very minimal loss
in range. I'll have to be careful not to overspin the motor though. The
Comuta owners manual states that the armatures will self-destruct if the van
is taken over 49 mph. That's baloney because I've had it up to 58 mph with
no problem but I am conscious that there is a limit before things start to
fly apart.
Thanks,
Rich A.
'81 Comuta Van (Ex Postal)
_________________________________________________________________
Call friends with PC-to-PC calling -- FREE
http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wlmailtagline
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim,
I live near Olympia, & have all the stuff to make cables. What color
(red/black) what gage (2/0,3/0), what length, and what lugs do you need? I
can
whip one up for parts cost.
Pat
Well, this sucks.
I got a "new" pack from Paul last weekend (thanks again, Paul!) and learned
about an important difference between standard Optima YTs and the ones with
side posts:
The ones with side posts cannot be put as close together, relative to the
posts. Which means I have one cable literally a half-inch too short.
I know I have no idea on how one should build a battery cable. Were I
building 25 or so, I would learn and invest in the proper tools. Can I impose
on
someone in ListLand and the Seattle/Puget Sound area to build a proper jumper
cable? I'm happy to pay for the service.
Too short in Seattle,
Jim Dempsey
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am selling a Bladez XLT electric scooter in very good condition. Scooter
was ridden just a few times. It has a new battery pack. It also has the
seat kit added. I'm asking 290 dollars. It has a weight capacity of 300
pounds. However as far as hill climbing goes a 125 pound person can climb
any hill. At 180 it does ok. At 250 not so good and at 300 forgetit. I
took it for a two mile run yesterday and then fully charged it. It rides
and stops well. If you are looking for a sweat free ride this is one
alternative. In California it needs no license. Park on the side walk or
fold it up and take it in with you. You need a CDL, helmet & must be 16
years of age to ride this scooter. It's speed is limited by law to 20 mph.
It is allowed in the bike lane. The scooter is in San Francisco. Contact
Lawrence Rhodes 415-550-8585. Local pickup. Cash.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John-
You never can trust the media to get it right.
I'm sure you know that.
Worse than not having Tim's mug instead of yours in the pic, what I first
noticed in reading the article was what wasn't there: any mention at all of Tim
Brehm, your driver.
But again, you can't trust the press to do anything, even if you guide them to
water. And in the end, they need to have a spin for readership.
In your case, the theme of the article was John Wayland and his mission and in
the writer's vision, Tim didn't fit in.
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
_In general_, most components are rated for their _continuous_ amp
capacity, and many components are okay with brief spikes in current.
The definition of "brief" is variable dependent on _how much_ you go
over the continuous rating. Much of this depends on the thermal mass of
the component you're overloading.
Take this (and any other) advise with a grain of salt. This is
information I've gleaned from reading the EVDL list, and is based on
list member's experiences.
Problem with paralleling many components is that they often don't share
the load equally, especially circuit breakers.
Also, you have to consider motor current vs battery current. Most of
the time you're drawing a lower amperage from the batteries than you're
putting into the motor. Discarding efficiency losses, you're drawing
high-voltage, low-amp power from the batteries, and putting a
lower-voltage, higher-amp power into the motor.
Steve Lacy wrote:
I'm planning for my conversion to be a 144V (12 cell) 1000A system.
Although in all reality I'll probably never actually draw 1000A, I want to
make sure that the system is over designed enough so that nothing melts,
sparks, smoke, or catches fire under load. So, I've got some "practical"
questions. Here goes:
Contactor. The Albright SW200 is rated 400A continuous. Do I need 2 of
these in parallel for a 1000A setup? For safety? Anyone know their peak
rating? How long can they sustain this peak?
Peaks, by their nature, are not sustained. Most folks are just fine
with a 400A contactor, even if they do occasionally exceed this amount
for a short period of time. Excessively high currents can weld the
contacts together, but unless you're drag racing, or have a really heavy
vehicle, this is unlikely. Contactor damage often occurs from
_breaking_ too much current (breaking under load). Many people use an
Albright SW202 reversing contactor, which is rated only 250A continuous,
while their main contactor is rated higher. This is usually okay,
because the reversing contactor (should) never switch under load.
Anderson Connectors. Again, rated at 350A continuous. Will they melt at
1000A? Do people recommend a parallel connector setup?
Probably not if the duration is short.
Fuses. I've got one that seems to be just fine for 1000A (Ferraz/Shawmut
A30QS500-4) rated [EMAIL PROTECTED]
This is the precise fuse that Otmar recommends for the Z1K, though his
recommendations are more of a guideline.
Circuit breaker. The Heinemann seems to be rated for 1000A peak, so I
presume I'm safe.
The current at which a Heinemann trips and the current at which it can
safely break are different. I have a Heinemann GJ1P-B3-P-E-DU, which
trips at 250A, but it has a "slow trip curve," meaning that it won't
just instantly trip @250A. In fact, it _wont_ trip at 250A. At 312A
(125%), it would take between 110 and 1100 seconds to trip. At 1000A
(400% current load), it takes between 4 and 20 seconds to trip. The
trip curves are specified on the datasheet. Make sure you get a "slow
trip curve" model.
The current that this breaker is rated to break is 10,000A @160V, per UL
listing -- NON-UL value is 14,000A @160V.
Wire, Terminals & Lugs. I'm planning 2/0 wire. Will this be enough?
Almost certainly.
ADC 9" motor. I haven't seen good numbers for this guy at 144V. 5sec,
15sec, 1 minute, 1 hour, etc. max amperage numbers would be great. Does
anyone have them? Do people generally have an auxillary blower at higher
volts/amps?
Rod has spec sheets for motors on his site:
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=536&product_id=1128
Gauges. Any ammmeter that I get will probably be in the 0-400A range.
Will it smoke if/when I pull 1000A?
No. Your ammeter gets a very tiny fraction of the current, while the
shunt carries the majority. The meter itself _might_ be damaged by
pegging, but it won't smoke. The shunt is also very unlikely to smoke,
but can be damaged by overheating, but this takes time.
Lugs & Terminals? Is there anything special that needs to be done? I'll
probably be running Hawker PC2150's, with their brass terminals.
Is there anything else that needs to be over-designed for a 1000A system?
What kind of fire extinguishers do people carry on board, if any?
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Patrick -
Your 250 whrs/mile is near the top end of what I'd expect. Some
conservative Solectria drivers report around 150 Whrs/mile, I've seen
close to 300 Whrs/mile on mine with nasty hills, bad alignment, and a
heavy foot. So while not a ridiculous number, it might be worth checking
wheel alignment, dragging brakes, etc.
Generically speaking would expect a Force range of 30 or 40 miles,
depending of course on pack age and driving conditions, so your 36 miles
could make sense.
Check out the "Solectria EV" group on Yahoo for more...
Patrick Clarke wrote:
>
According to our logged data, over our daily drivings we've been
averaging about 250 WattHrs/mile and/or a smidge over 2 AmpHrs/mile
(does this sound about right?).
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Hmmmm.....GVW. I thought the Ghia was lighter than the bug. Gross Vehicle
Weight isn't curb weight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DM3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: Karman Ghia vs Baha Bug vs Thing vs Kit Bug
> Mark,
> The Ghia is the heaviest, I think it weighs in at 2625 GVW or
> there-abouts. If you like the body style I would use as much fiberglass
> as possible but remember the pan is flimsy without the body. I did a ghia
> in '96 and sunk two battery boxes where the back seat and foot-wells use
> to be. That was 6+6 or 12 batteries there and then I put 6 more under a
> glass front clip (all Trojan T125s). See: https://www.dm3electrics.com/
> You can always shoehorn more under the rear bonnet.
> The lightest set up would be a tube frame (sandrail style) and skin it or
> lay a fiberglass body over it. If you buy an off the shelf tube frame you
> stilll may need to beef it up slightly.
> See: https://www.dm3electrics.com/
> If you are interested in adapter plates and couplers let me know.
> Jimmy
>
>
> > > Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 10:04:11 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Karman Ghia vs Baha Bug vs Thing vs Kit Bug
> > To: [email protected]
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I was curious on which vehicle weight came out the lightest for a
> > conversion. It looks like parts are still available for the Karman Ghia
> > & noticed that one was recently converted. Does anyone know the start
> > weight of a Ghia vs a Thing or a kit Bug? Or can recommend an easy kit
> > bolt on? It looks like 14 batteries would fit in a VW Thing but appears
> > difficult in a Ghia.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mark
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mark,
Try: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
They are out of Troy, Virginia. They sometimes have a lot of old parts. I
still use there contactors in my EV which at times send me contactor parts
at no cost except for the shipping.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 7:51 AM
Subject: Cableform Speed Control Module Needed
>
> Hi All,
>
> New member here, from Fairfield, Ioway. EV: 1981 Ford Fairmont Current
> Fare by EVA, Cableform guts, running on 10+1 12v (I wanted to keep the
> thing lighter and use it for a 12 mile round trip commute, which it just
> does). Yay!
>
> When I started to set it up I found that the accelerator control module
> was missing, so I'm running it on one that Todd Debrowsky from Florida
> was kind enough to lend me. It's a Cableform (Pulsomatic) MK-X #3112-3-2
> and looks like a square gray box about 6X6X2 with a swing arm on the side
> for the accelerator cable. Question: does anyone have or know the
> whereabouts a used one?
>
> I'd me much obliged for some help in tracking one down.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Stimson
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/databook/loadInflation.pdf#search='vehicle%20curb%20weight%20chart'
I'm thinking this chart might be of some benefit when sizing tires to a
vehicle. Lawrence Rhodes.......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes if you really love Pintos, or want to do something different. It
is an orphan, and definitely not an enthusiast car. I'd guess you'd
have more trouble selling one.
I'd think an 80's ("fox" body) or any mustang would be a better
choice. They are cheap and not much heavier than the Pinto (plus you
can take more weight out). They already have the 8 inch rear. There
are gadzillions of parts for them, including many lightweight racing
parts. I'm sure the brakes are bigger, and you can certainly put on
huge late model or aftermarket brakes. Look at car mags, you'll see
Mustang 5.0, Mustangs and Fast Fords, plus a couple others, chock
full of aftermarket parts.
If you decide to make a kit or business out of it, there are lots of
used mustangs to convert.
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Found a 1980 Pinto in town with a perfect body and blown engine for
> $100. Curb weight 2556# minus the typical stuff of 712# equals
> an 1844# glider. Its probably got the 6-3/4" rear end so I could
> probably easily swap it for an 8". If I look at pictures right
> there should be lots of battery room under the back seat and in
> place of that explosive gas tank behind the axle. Anyone got any
> comments on the Pinto as a conversion? Do they handle OK, is the
> steering dependable (aren't they rack & pinion)? I never drove
> one. Any chance of fitting dual motors under the hood with direct
> drive to the rear-end?
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--- Begin Message ---
(I've copied this from a car blog. It's 1990 cars so good for us. I
couldn't find much else. Anybody found other lists? What is the Karmen Ghia
Curb Weight? Inquiring minds want to know. Lawrence Rhodes.)...
There's always a lot of talk here about how cars have become so heavy. So
here's a list I've compiled from my car magazine archive.
All weights are in lbs.
EDIT: MPG FIGURES ADDED - these are from the 1990 EPA fuel economy guide
Acura Integra 3-door - 2,544 24/28 MPG
Acura Legend - 3,139 19/24 MPG
Acura NSX - 2,850
Alfa Rome Spider - 2,550 23/30 MPG
Alfa Romeo 164S 3,335
Audi V8 quattro - 3,946 14/18 MPG
Audi 80 (FWD) - 2,612 22/30 MPG
Audi Coupe quattro 20V - 3,171 18/24 MPG
Audi 100 (FWD) - 2,932 18/24 MPG
Audi 200 (FWD) - 3,080 17/25 MPG
BMW 325i 4-door - 2,855 18/23 MPG
BMW 325ix 4-door - 3,054
BMW M3 - 3,055 17/29 MPG
BMW 525i - 3,395 18/24 MPG
BMW 335i - 3,530 15/23 MPG
BMW 735i - 3,835 15/23 MPG
BMW 750iL - 4,235 15/21 MPG
Buick Electra - 3,288 19/28 MPG
Buick Estate Wagon - 4,281 17/24 MPG
Buick Reatta - 3,379 18/27 MPG
Cadillac Brougham - 4,283 14/21 MPG
Cadillac DeVille - 3,466 16/25 MPG
Chevrolet Beretta 2-door - 3,000
Chevrolet Camaro V6 - 3,077
Chevrolet Cavalier 2-door - 2,436 25/32 MPG
Chevrolet Celebrity 4-door - 2,888 21/27 MPG
Chevrolet Corvette - 3,223 16/25 MPG
Chevrolet Lumina 4-door V6 - 3,122 19/30 MPG
Chrysler Imperial - 3,570 17/25 MPG
Chrysler LeBaron V6- 2,810 20/26 MPG
Chrysler TC by Maserati (turbo) - 3,200 20/32 MPG
Chrysler Town & Country - 3,817 18/24 MPG
Eagle Premier - 3,083 17/26 MPG
Eagle Talon turbo (FWD) - 2,651 20/25 MPG
Ford Escort 5-door - 2,310 27/36 MPG
Ford LTD Crown Victoria - 3,821 17/24 MPG
Ford Mustang LX (4 cyl.) - 2,759 23/29 MPG
Ford Probe - 2,731 24/31 MPG
Ford Taurus - 2,956 21/27 MPG
Ford Tempo - 2,515 23/32 MPG
Ford Thunderbird - 3,581 19/27 MPG
Geo Metro 3-door - 1,591 53/58 MPG
Geo Storm - 2,282 31/36 MPG
Honda Accord - 2,773 24/30 MPG
Honda CRX - 1,967 32/35 MPG
Honda Prelude Si - 2,571 23/26 MPG
Infiniti M30 - 3,333 19/25 MPG
Infiniti Q45 - 3,950 16/22 MPG
Isuzu Impulse - 2,411 26/34 MPG
Jaguar XJ-6 - 3,903 17/22 MPG
Jaguar XJ-S V-12 - 4,015 13/17 MPG
Jeep Cherokee Limited - 3,453 16/20 MPG
Lexus ES250 - 3,163 19/26 MPG
Lexus LS400 - 3,755 18/23 MPG
Lincoln Continental - 3,663 19/28 MPG
Lincoln Mark VII - 3,779 17/24 MPG
Lincoln Town Car - 4,025 17/24 MPG
Mazda Miata - 2,182 25/30 MPG
Mazda MPV 4WD - 3,920 17/22 MPG
Mazda RX-7 2,800 17/25 MPG
Mazda RX-7 2+2 - 2,880 17/25 MPG
Mazda RX-7 convertible - 3,045 16/24 MPG
Mazda 323 3-door - 2,238 29/37 MPG
Mazda MX-6 - 2,560 24/31 MPG
Mazda 929 - 3,477 18/22 MPG
Mercedes 500SL - 3,970 14/18 MPG
Mercedes 560SEC - 3,915 15/18 MPG
Mercedes 190E 2.6 - 2,995 20/23 MPG
Mercedes 300E sedan - 3,210 18/22 MPG
Mitsubishi Galant - 2,601 23/29 MPG
Mitsubishi Sigma V6 - 3,108 18/22 MPG
Nissan Maxima - 3,193 20/26 MPG
Nissan Stanza - 2,788 22/29 MPG
Nissan 240SX - 2,657 20/27 MPG
Nissan 300ZX - 3,219 18/24 MPG
Nissan 300ZX 2+2 - 3,313 18/24 MPG
Nissan 300ZX Turbo - 3,474 18/24 MPG
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme V6 2-door - 3,133 19/30 MPG
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight - 3,325 18/27 MPG
Oldsmobile Toranado - 3,462 17/26 MPG
Peugeot 405S 4-door - 2,460 20/27 MPG
Peugeot 505 4-door - 2,998 18/22 MPG
Plymouth Horizon - 2,296 26/35 MPG
Plymouth Voyager 3,100 21/23 MPG
Pontiac Bonneville - 3,325 18/27 MPG
Pontiac Grand Prix 2-door - 3,186 19/30 MPG
Pontiac Trans Sport - 3,500 18/23 MPG
Pontiac 6000 - 2,843 24/31 MPG
Porashe 911 Carrera 2 - 3,031 16/24 MPG
Porsche 911 Carrera 4 - 3,252
Porsche 928 S4 - 3,505 13/19 MPG
Porsche 944 S2 - 2,998 17/26 MPG
Range Rover - 4,389 13/16 MPG
Saab 900 S 3-door - 2,732 22/28 MPG
Saab 9000 5-door - 3,004 21/28 MPG
Sterling 827 5-door - 3,230 19/24 MPG
Subaru Justy 3-door (FWD) - 1,745 33/37 MPG
Subaru Legacy 4-door (FWD) - 2,620 18/24 MPG
Subaru Legacy 4-door (4WD) - 2,830 23/30 MPG
Subaru Loyale wagon (FWD) - 2,370
Subaru XT (FWD) - 2,455 25/31 MPG
Toyota Camry (4 cyl.) 2,690 26/34 MPG
Toyota Camry All-Trac - 3,086
Toyota Celica GT - 2,696 23/29 MPG
Toyota Celica GT-S - 2,975
Toyota Celica All-Trac Turbo - 3,272 19/24 MPG
Toyota Corolla 4-door - 2,390 28/33 MPG
Toyota Corolla 4-door All-trac - 2,650
Toyota Cressida - 3,417 19/24 MPG
Toyota MR-2 - 2,350 26/31 MPG
Toyota MR-2 Supercharged - 2,493 24/30 MPG
Toyota Supra - 3,463 18/23 MPG
Volkswagan Coraddo G60 - 2,695 21/28 MPG
Volkswagen Fox 4-door - 2,203 25/30 MPG
Volkswagen Golf 5-door - 2,246 15/44 MPG
Volkswagen Golf GTI 16V - 2,262 22/29 MPG
Volkswagen Jetta - 2,305
Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V - 2,440
Volvo 240 sedan - 2,919 21/28 MPG
Volvo 740 sedan - 2,954 21/28 MPG
Volvo 780 coupe - 3,415 18/21 MPG
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I never had any trouble getting suspension parts for my 1980 Courier. Go
for it. No vacuum pump. That'll save 10 pounds......... and some energy.
& 400 dollars. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Milliron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 5:14 AM
Subject: Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
> On Thu, 31 Aug 2006 23:30:20 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >Found a 1980 Pinto in town with a perfect body and blown engine for $100.
Curb weight 2556# minus the typical stuff of 712# equals
> >an 1844# glider. Its probably got the 6-3/4" rear end so I could probably
easily swap it for an 8". If I look at pictures right
> >there should be lots of battery room under the back seat and in place of
that explosive gas tank behind the axle. Anyone got any
> >comments on the Pinto as a conversion? Do they handle OK, is the
steering dependable (aren't they rack & pinion)? I never drove
> >one. Any chance of fitting dual motors under the hood with direct drive
to the rear-end?
> >
> >
> Be careful. I am revamping a 1981 Jet Electrica.<Ford Escort> Parts
> can be VERY hard to find on these old econoboxes. You may not be able
> to find parts for the suspension. On the good side it is a rear wheel
> drive. Plenty of space up front in the engine compartment. I and a
> friend drove the crap out of one in the 70's. As hard as we drove it
> she never failed to get us home. It had non-power steering, but as
> long as you are moving any at all it was fine. Contrary to popular
> opinion it never exploded once.
>
> R. Matt Milliron
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
> My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
> electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
> 1981 Jet Electrica.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mike,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you on this.
Using AccessIt! Version 1.1
Using Weasel Version 1.59.3
I would also have to agree with Otmar that Zilla data probably isn't for
good for recording energy consumption.
Regards,
Chris Brune
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: Capturing Zilla data at the drag strip
> Chris,
> What version of AccessIt! and Weasle Reader are you using? I'm looking
for the newest version, unless you know a reason an
> earlier version is better. I want to do this to pull my energy usage.
Every once in a while I fire up the laptop and use a
> terminal emulator to log my whole run to work, and pick it up for the run
back. I can then import the log into Excel, multiply
> the Battery Volatge and Current columns together, total them down and
divide by 10 (zilla puts out 10 samples per second) and by
> 3600 (3600 seconds in an hour) to give me Watt-Hours used. I then divide
by the mileage on my trip counter to give me Wh/mi
> consumed. If I could capture it to the Palm I wouldn't have to wait
massive boot times for the laptop. Even better, if we could
> automate the calculation on the Palm we could start the log and when you
hit stop, it asks for your trip counter, you enter the
> number and get the Wh/Mi as a result. Even 1 step further if we could
integrate the odometer on the vehicle it could give you a
> realtime moving average (or trip average) of Wh/mi.
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, ak.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Chris Brune
> > Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 9:58 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Capturing Zilla data at the drag strip
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > I thought I'd do a short post about the method I have been using to
capture
> > Zilla data from Zombie, and also last night from Otmar's 914.
> >
> > In the past John has been putting his Mac laptop in the passenger seat
and
> > capturing data using a program called Zterm. There are a number of
> > logistical issues with this. The laptop battery can't handle a full
night
> > of racing. I personally worry about submitting the laptop to the
vibration
> > and G's associated with going down the drag strip. And the bottom line
is
> > the laptop is a bit bulky to have in the car with you.
> >
> > My thought was let's figure out a way to get my Palm V to do this job.
So
> > my solution involves the following programs:
> >
> > ptelnet - this is the Palm terminal emulator that Otmar recommends for
use
> > with the Zilla. It is very handy for interacting with the Zilla, but
does
> > not have the ability to capture large data files.
> >
> > AccessIt! - This is a different terminal emulator for the Palm. It is
not
> > as good at interacting with the Zilla, but it does generate great log
files.
> > These log files are stored as pdb (Palm database) files on the Palm.
Each
> > log file is conveniently time and date stamped.
> >
> > Weasel Reader - Weasel is a program that is intended for viewing pdb
files.
> > It has the added feature of being able to beam these files as well.
This
> > program is used to beam the logfile generated by AccessIt! to a PC.
> >
> > Wordpad - Windows text editor. I use this program to edit out unwanted
info
> > in the logfile.
> >
> > FasTrack - This is the PC based program that SEVO (www.suncoast.net) put
> > together for graphing Zilla data. Thanks!
> >
> > The process goes like this:
> > 1. First setup the Zilla to start sending data. I do this using
ptelnet on
> > the Palm. This is done from the "p" menu using command "Q4" (make sure
"Q"
> > is upper case).
> > 2. Now start AccessIt!. When you are ready to start logging data click
> > "OnLine". This will start logging the data to a file. The fun part
begins
> > here, go drive/race your EV. When you are done click "OffLine" to close
the
> > log file.
> > 3. The next thing we need to do is send the data to a PC. There are
other
> > ways to do this, but I wanted to do this via IR. My laptop has an IR
port
> > and so does the Palm V. So I go into Weasel, select the log file I want
to
> > send (filename starts "AccessLog-....). Then from the menu select Beam
> > Book. The PC then picks up the file and stores it (in my case it shows
up
> > on the desktop).
> > 4. I then use Wordpad to edit and view the file. There is some garbage
at
> > the begging of the file I delete out. In drag racing there is a fair
amount
> > of unwanted data so I can edit that out as well.
> > 5. Then you can open the file in FasTrack.
> >
> > FasTrack is a great tool for quickly analyzing data from the Zilla.
There
> > are a couple of suggestions I have for making it more useful.
> >
> > First, everytime a "trace" is turned on and off it resets the x-axis
> > scaling. This is fairly annoying if you are trying to analyze a
specific
> > portion of the data.
> >
> > Second, the Zilla is spitting out some data that isn't shown in
FasTrack.
> > Specifically which mode the controller is in. Zombie is constantly
dancing
> > with different Zilla limits (battery voltage, battery current, motor
> > current). It would be helpful if there were some way to graphically
show
> > which mode the Zilla is in.
> >
> > John and I hope to put some snapshots of Zombie runs on his web site
pretty
> > soon, so be looking for this.
> >
> > We also captured Otmar's run where he blew an Orbital last night.
Happened
> > just after the end of the run. Current draw from the Orbitals was about
> > 1250 amps at the end of the run.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Chris Brune
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello
It seems my e-brake (parking brake) is not working on
my 86 Toyota Pickup.
The levers seem to be frozen.
Anyway, I realized that I cannot just put the truck in
1st gear, and expect it to stay "parked."
So besides chocking the wheels, and maybe using my
12volt battery to sit on my regular pedal...
any other suggestions?
thanks
Mike
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> >
> > >Found a 1980 Pinto in town with a perfect body and blown engine for $100.
> Curb weight 2556# minus the typical stuff of 712# equals
> > >an 1844# glider.
Sounds like a great car for a conversion. Sorta light. Might be sorta
aerodynamic. Not too many of
them around, it will get a lot attention. And if you plan on making it fast
even better. What
could be more humiliating to a gasser than getting dusted by a Pinto?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fix the brakes!
--- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello
>
> It seems my e-brake (parking brake) is not working on
> my 86 Toyota Pickup.
>
> The levers seem to be frozen.
>
> Anyway, I realized that I cannot just put the truck in
> 1st gear, and expect it to stay "parked."
>
> So besides chocking the wheels, and maybe using my
> 12volt battery to sit on my regular pedal...
>
> any other suggestions?
>
> thanks
>
> Mike
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
