EV Digest 5820
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: broken e-brake suggestions?
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: broken e-brake suggestions?
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Another range question
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Understanding EV design relationships
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
by "Jerry Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Bill Dube' and Killacycle staged for a win on Dragtimes
by "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: broken e-brake suggestions?
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Cuirb weights. Lets start a list.
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Building a controller yourself
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Curb weights
by Mike Swift <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cuirb weights. Lets start a list.
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) splined couplers
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) re: Smart Car on Ebay
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: splined couplers
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
always park against a curb on an incline facing downward.. and chock the wheels
just in case. Did it for years with a working parking brake because the thing
would just unclick when it felt like it sometimes.
----- Original Message ----
From: mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, September 1, 2006 11:45:23 AM
Subject: broken e-brake suggestions?
Hello
It seems my e-brake (parking brake) is not working on
my 86 Toyota Pickup.
The levers seem to be frozen.
Anyway, I realized that I cannot just put the truck in
1st gear, and expect it to stay "parked."
So besides chocking the wheels, and maybe using my
12volt battery to sit on my regular pedal...
any other suggestions?
thanks
Mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
Your brakes can't be frozen, you guys are warmer than we are down in Anchorage.
Seriously though, brakes gotta work, without quesion. Especially the e-brake.
If its the cable running to the back try lubing it so it moves free. Also, if
you're so inclined, pull the wheels and hubs of and see if you can blow all the
dust (with a compressor and face mask of course) out of the hub assembly. Then
very small amounts of lubricant to allow the parts to to move again. Also
check the e-brake pedal (or lever if thats what a Toyota has) to make sure its
not stuck.
Mike,
----- Original Message -----
From: mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, September 1, 2006 8:48 am
Subject: broken e-brake suggestions?
To: [email protected]
> Hello
>
> It seems my e-brake (parking brake) is not working on
> my 86 Toyota Pickup.
>
> The levers seem to be frozen.
>
> Anyway, I realized that I cannot just put the truck in
> 1st gear, and expect it to stay "parked."
>
> So besides chocking the wheels, and maybe using my
> 12volt battery to sit on my regular pedal...
>
> any other suggestions?
>
> thanks
>
> Mike
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do they say what conditions, vehicle type and weight that got the
150wh/mi ? I'm always seeing how other brands compare to the USE trucks
like I have.
Mike
--- Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Patrick -
>
> Your 250 whrs/mile is near the top end of what I'd expect. Some
> conservative Solectria drivers report around 150 Whrs/mile, I've seen
>
> close to 300 Whrs/mile on mine with nasty hills, bad alignment, and a
>
> heavy foot. So while not a ridiculous number, it might be worth
> checking
> wheel alignment, dragging brakes, etc.
>
> Generically speaking would expect a Force range of 30 or 40 miles,
> depending of course on pack age and driving conditions, so your 36
> miles
> could make sense.
>
> Check out the "Solectria EV" group on Yahoo for more...
>
>
>
> Patrick Clarke wrote:
> >
> > According to our logged data, over our daily drivings we've been
> > averaging about 250 WattHrs/mile and/or a smidge over 2 AmpHrs/mile
>
> > (does this sound about right?).
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak's
> 1997 Solectria Force
> 1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
> http://www.eeevee.com
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Richard Acuti wrote:
> '81 Comuta Van... 12 hp motor, 72v system, 1221b Curtis controller
> ([EMAIL PROTECTED] amps), 12 6v Exide Stowaways, 744 lbs @ 62 lbs. each,
> I get 40 miles at 72 deg.F, driven very conservatively.
> These batteries are rated at 186ah @ 20h...
>
> A: 9 8v Trojan T-890's (69 lbs), rated 190ah, I will save 123 lbs.
>
> B: 9 8v Trojan T-875's (63 lbs), rated 170ah, I will save 177 lbs.
>
> C: 10-12 8v Trojans (either T-890 or T-875), I will have 80v or
> 96v so I'll go faster but my wieght will be the same or -more-
> than my original configuration so I may suffer an unacceptable
> range loss.
According to my notes, the Sam's Club 6v golf cart battery is rated
220ah at the 20h rate. I found that to be about right in my experience.
Given equal weight batteries, a 6v battery will have 33% more amphours
than an 8v battery (8v/6v = 1.33). 220ah/170ah = 29% more, so this also
fits.
Range is directly detirmined by battery weight. If you want to keep the
same range, you need the same total battery weight. Options A and B will
*lose* range. Option C with twelve T-890s will gain you a little range
*if* you don't change your driving (don't go any faster or accellerate
any quicker).
> My goal is maximum speed, maximum acceleration and maximum range
> within the configurations listed above.
I'd stay away from the 8v batteries. They generally cost more and
perform worse. Their higher voltage will improve top speed, but at the
cost of significantly reduced range and shorter life.
Instead, use twelve T-125 or T-145 6v batteries (or the US Battery
equivalents). They fit in the same battery boxes, and increase your pack
weight, and thus range. (You'll lose this extra range due to higher
speed, which I'll get to next).
Now replace the 13" rims with 14" rims (Ford 5-bolt fit). Use
Bridgestone Potenza 14" high-pressure low rolling resistance tires from
a Toyota Prius or Honda Insight. These are bigger in diameter, and will
increase your top speed about 5-10 mph. You'll have to trim the plastic
lip off the wheel wells to gain a little clearance.
Replace the old 90w gear lube in the transmission and differential with
30w motor oil. Don't use synthetic oil unless you replace all the seals
(mine leaked when I tried synthetic).
Make sure your brakes aren't dragging. The cheap trailer brakes they
used are junk; the stamped drums warp and then rub. It is preferable to
replace them with conventional car drum brakes with cast drums.
Check the front end alignment. You want zero toe-in. When you get the
tires, brakes, and alignment right, you can push it with one finger!
Clean up the aerodynamics. The ComutaVan has the aerodynamics of a
brick,; there's a lot of room for improvement! Get rid of the huge
postal side mirrors; use smaller "streamlined" ones. Put a belly pan
underneath; it can be quickly made with Coroplast "sign board" or
plastic "canvas" stretched tight. Modify the hood to be flush (not
sticking up 1"). Wrap a curved piece of plastic around the front bumper
and body to round the nose (it's now square, and the black foam rubber
bumper has probably rotted and disintegrated anyway).
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jack I have a spare Fluke 80i-1010 1000amp AC/DC probe that I use with my
Conar or Micronta DVMs I would let go for $75 shipped..I can send pics if
needed
Jerry NWO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
The LH2015 looks good, but online prices are $495. Can I buy yours for
$150? :)
B&K Precision has one through Digikey, 367A, that is $209, think i'll buy
that one unless I hear otherwise.
Jack
Rick Todd wrote:
Jack,
I actually just purchased a new clamp on meter from fluke about 2 months
ago
and have been happy with it.
This is the link,
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/LH2015.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&;
Category=CLMP(FlukeProducts)
It was about $130 from my local supply house.
Regards,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jack Murray
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 12:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
I need to buy a clamp-on Amp meter, I prefer one that can handle 2000A,
both
AC and DC.
Prefer it not to cost a lot of course, but I don't want any junk either.
Anyone have suggestions? thanks,
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 1, 2006, at 1:30 AM, Mike Willmon wrote:
Anyone got any comments on the Pinto as a conversion? Do they handle
OK, is the steering dependable (aren't they rack & pinion)? I never
drove one.
Ah, my first car. (Nostalgic sigh.) What a piece of crap it was.
I really didn't like it very much. I felt like I couldn't see out, and
the manual steering was awful - slow and high-effort. (Don't know if
it was rack-and-pinion steering or recirculating-ball or whatever. It
felt like a worm gear lubricated with chewing gum.)
Mechanically it was much more complicated than the aircooled VWs I
later grew fond of. I remember having to pull off some of the steering
gear to remove the starter. I did a lot of that sort of thing in the
parking lot of the auto parts store.
Back then I wasn't paying any attention to how well a car would lend
itself to an EV conversion, so I'm afraid I don't have any useful
comments beyond the above.
Imagining my old Pinto as an EV makes me cringe, though. Perhaps that
has more to do with the powerful scent of "Eau de Moldy Shower Curtain"
that pervaded the interior, or the way it darted to the right when I
stepped on the brake pedal.
Before you take your find home, I suggest you sit in it and see if you
have the same powerful negative response to it that I had.
To be fair (or at least fairer), some of the problems with the car were
my own fault, since I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, and even
less interest. I'm fortunate I didn't kill someone with the damn
thing.
Hopefully someone who loved their Pinto will speak up and give you
another viewpoint. (Assuming, of course, that the set of "people who
loved their Pinto" is non-empty.)
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is more along the lines of what I was thinking :-)
Whithout seeing it up close and personal, and never even driving one, I
wouldn't know if the room under the hood would be sufficient for say, dual 9's.
Certainly putting an 8" (or EVen a decent stock 9") would be easy and allow it
to be at least seen on a drag strip.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, September 1, 2006 8:54 am
Subject: Re: Anyone consider converting a Pinto
To: [email protected]
> > >
> > > >Found a 1980 Pinto in town with a perfect body and blown
> engine for $100.
> > Curb weight 2556# minus the typical stuff of 712# equals
> > > >an 1844# glider.
>
> Sounds like a great car for a conversion. Sorta light. Might be
> sorta aerodynamic. Not too many of
> them around, it will get a lot attention. And if you plan on
> making it fast even better. What
> could be more humiliating to a gasser than getting dusted by a Pinto?
>
> Dave Cover
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I see that with the start of a new month, that Bill Dube'
has moved into the number one slot for a potential win
next month! http://www.dragtimes.com/
Check out that Karmann Ghia in the #8 slot, it would
match up pretty well with Killacycle on the track.
Here's a link directly to Bill's page for the voting
http://www.dragtimes.com/Dragster-Motorcycle-Timeslip-7621.html
The site has a nice EV page going too
http://www.dragtimes.com/featured-electric-cars.php
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Line lock?
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: broken e-brake suggestions?
Hello
It seems my e-brake (parking brake) is not working on
my 86 Toyota Pickup.
The levers seem to be frozen.
Anyway, I realized that I cannot just put the truck in
1st gear, and expect it to stay "parked."
So besides chocking the wheels, and maybe using my
12volt battery to sit on my regular pedal...
any other suggestions?
thanks
Mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1500uf 450V screw caps on ebay
150027867485
good for controllers?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
Jack I have a spare Fluke 80i-1010 1000amp AC/DC probe that I use with my
Conar or Micronta DVMs I would let go for $75 shipped..I can send pics if
needed
Jerry NWO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
The LH2015 looks good, but online prices are $495. Can I buy yours for
$150? :)
B&K Precision has one through Digikey, 367A, that is $209, think i'll buy
that one unless I hear otherwise.
Jack
Rick Todd wrote:
Jack,
I actually just purchased a new clamp on meter from fluke about 2 months
ago
and have been happy with it.
This is the link,
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/LH2015.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&;
Category=CLMP(FlukeProducts)
It was about $130 from my local supply house.
Regards,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jack Murray
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 12:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
I need to buy a clamp-on Amp meter, I prefer one that can handle 2000A,
both
AC and DC.
Prefer it not to cost a lot of course, but I don't want any junk either.
Anyone have suggestions? thanks,
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Best I've seen is the U.S. gov't EPA databases:
<http://www.epa.gov/fueleconomy/data.htm>
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> (I've copied this from a car blog. It's 1990 cars so good for us.
> I
> couldn't find much else. Anybody found other lists? What is the
> Karmen Ghia
> Curb Weight? Inquiring minds want to know. Lawrence Rhodes.)...
>
> There's always a lot of talk here about how cars have become so
> heavy. So
> here's a list I've compiled from my car magazine archive.
>
> All weights are in lbs.
>
> EDIT: MPG FIGURES ADDED - these are from the 1990 EPA fuel economy
> guide
>
> Acura Integra 3-door - 2,544 24/28 MPG
> Acura Legend - 3,139 19/24 MPG
> Acura NSX - 2,850
> Alfa Rome Spider - 2,550 23/30 MPG
> Alfa Romeo 164S 3,335
> Audi V8 quattro - 3,946 14/18 MPG
> Audi 80 (FWD) - 2,612 22/30 MPG
> Audi Coupe quattro 20V - 3,171 18/24 MPG
> Audi 100 (FWD) - 2,932 18/24 MPG
> Audi 200 (FWD) - 3,080 17/25 MPG
> BMW 325i 4-door - 2,855 18/23 MPG
> BMW 325ix 4-door - 3,054
> BMW M3 - 3,055 17/29 MPG
> BMW 525i - 3,395 18/24 MPG
> BMW 335i - 3,530 15/23 MPG
> BMW 735i - 3,835 15/23 MPG
> BMW 750iL - 4,235 15/21 MPG
> Buick Electra - 3,288 19/28 MPG
> Buick Estate Wagon - 4,281 17/24 MPG
> Buick Reatta - 3,379 18/27 MPG
> Cadillac Brougham - 4,283 14/21 MPG
> Cadillac DeVille - 3,466 16/25 MPG
> Chevrolet Beretta 2-door - 3,000
> Chevrolet Camaro V6 - 3,077
> Chevrolet Cavalier 2-door - 2,436 25/32 MPG
> Chevrolet Celebrity 4-door - 2,888 21/27 MPG
> Chevrolet Corvette - 3,223 16/25 MPG
> Chevrolet Lumina 4-door V6 - 3,122 19/30 MPG
> Chrysler Imperial - 3,570 17/25 MPG
> Chrysler LeBaron V6- 2,810 20/26 MPG
> Chrysler TC by Maserati (turbo) - 3,200 20/32 MPG
> Chrysler Town & Country - 3,817 18/24 MPG
> Eagle Premier - 3,083 17/26 MPG
> Eagle Talon turbo (FWD) - 2,651 20/25 MPG
> Ford Escort 5-door - 2,310 27/36 MPG
> Ford LTD Crown Victoria - 3,821 17/24 MPG
> Ford Mustang LX (4 cyl.) - 2,759 23/29 MPG
> Ford Probe - 2,731 24/31 MPG
> Ford Taurus - 2,956 21/27 MPG
> Ford Tempo - 2,515 23/32 MPG
> Ford Thunderbird - 3,581 19/27 MPG
> Geo Metro 3-door - 1,591 53/58 MPG
> Geo Storm - 2,282 31/36 MPG
> Honda Accord - 2,773 24/30 MPG
> Honda CRX - 1,967 32/35 MPG
> Honda Prelude Si - 2,571 23/26 MPG
> Infiniti M30 - 3,333 19/25 MPG
> Infiniti Q45 - 3,950 16/22 MPG
> Isuzu Impulse - 2,411 26/34 MPG
> Jaguar XJ-6 - 3,903 17/22 MPG
> Jaguar XJ-S V-12 - 4,015 13/17 MPG
> Jeep Cherokee Limited - 3,453 16/20 MPG
> Lexus ES250 - 3,163 19/26 MPG
> Lexus LS400 - 3,755 18/23 MPG
> Lincoln Continental - 3,663 19/28 MPG
> Lincoln Mark VII - 3,779 17/24 MPG
> Lincoln Town Car - 4,025 17/24 MPG
> Mazda Miata - 2,182 25/30 MPG
> Mazda MPV 4WD - 3,920 17/22 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 2,800 17/25 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 2+2 - 2,880 17/25 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 convertible - 3,045 16/24 MPG
> Mazda 323 3-door - 2,238 29/37 MPG
> Mazda MX-6 - 2,560 24/31 MPG
> Mazda 929 - 3,477 18/22 MPG
> Mercedes 500SL - 3,970 14/18 MPG
> Mercedes 560SEC - 3,915 15/18 MPG
> Mercedes 190E 2.6 - 2,995 20/23 MPG
> Mercedes 300E sedan - 3,210 18/22 MPG
> Mitsubishi Galant - 2,601 23/29 MPG
> Mitsubishi Sigma V6 - 3,108 18/22 MPG
> Nissan Maxima - 3,193 20/26 MPG
> Nissan Stanza - 2,788 22/29 MPG
> Nissan 240SX - 2,657 20/27 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX - 3,219 18/24 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX 2+2 - 3,313 18/24 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX Turbo - 3,474 18/24 MPG
> Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme V6 2-door - 3,133 19/30 MPG
> Oldsmobile Ninety Eight - 3,325 18/27 MPG
> Oldsmobile Toranado - 3,462 17/26 MPG
> Peugeot 405S 4-door - 2,460 20/27 MPG
> Peugeot 505 4-door - 2,998 18/22 MPG
> Plymouth Horizon - 2,296 26/35 MPG
> Plymouth Voyager 3,100 21/23 MPG
> Pontiac Bonneville - 3,325 18/27 MPG
> Pontiac Grand Prix 2-door - 3,186 19/30 MPG
> Pontiac Trans Sport - 3,500 18/23 MPG
> Pontiac 6000 - 2,843 24/31 MPG
> Porashe 911 Carrera 2 - 3,031 16/24 MPG
> Porsche 911 Carrera 4 - 3,252
> Porsche 928 S4 - 3,505 13/19 MPG
> Porsche 944 S2 - 2,998 17/26 MPG
> Range Rover - 4,389 13/16 MPG
> Saab 900 S 3-door - 2,732 22/28 MPG
> Saab 9000 5-door - 3,004 21/28 MPG
> Sterling 827 5-door - 3,230 19/24 MPG
> Subaru Justy 3-door (FWD) - 1,745 33/37 MPG
> Subaru Legacy 4-door (FWD) - 2,620 18/24 MPG
> Subaru Legacy 4-door (4WD) - 2,830 23/30 MPG
> Subaru Loyale wagon (FWD) - 2,370
> Subaru XT (FWD) - 2,455 25/31 MPG
> Toyota Camry (4 cyl.) 2,690 26/34 MPG
> Toyota Camry All-Trac - 3,086
> Toyota Celica GT - 2,696 23/29 MPG
> Toyota Celica GT-S - 2,975
> Toyota Celica All-Trac Turbo - 3,272 19/24 MPG
> Toyota Corolla 4-door - 2,390 28/33 MPG
> Toyota Corolla 4-door All-trac - 2,650
> Toyota Cressida - 3,417 19/24 MPG
> Toyota MR-2 - 2,350 26/31 MPG
> Toyota MR-2 Supercharged - 2,493 24/30 MPG
> Toyota Supra - 3,463 18/23 MPG
> Volkswagan Coraddo G60 - 2,695 21/28 MPG
> Volkswagen Fox 4-door - 2,203 25/30 MPG
> Volkswagen Golf 5-door - 2,246 15/44 MPG
> Volkswagen Golf GTI 16V - 2,262 22/29 MPG
> Volkswagen Jetta - 2,305
> Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V - 2,440
> Volvo 240 sedan - 2,919 21/28 MPG
> Volvo 740 sedan - 2,954 21/28 MPG
> Volvo 780 coupe - 3,415 18/21 MPG
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
These wierdo nuts are killing me! I can't even get them apart and
start installing the cells into the truck! I suppose machining a
socket would work, but I hate to scratch up nickel plated hardware.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
> but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
> before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
> a socket for it.
>
> http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
>
> These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
> have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
> under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
> are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
> them.
>
> Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
> miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
> medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
> lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
> more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
> cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
> today.
>
> Mike
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just did that today.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mike: why don't you send that photo of the bat's to www.mcmaster.com
> and ask if they can ID it . they have answered a lot of ? on tapping
> stainless for me.
> Joe in Cincy.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 2:47 PM
> Subject: Re: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
>
>
> > I could I guess. I'm hoping to find the right tool. I could mill a
> > socket with 5 legs on it I suppose.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark McCurdy" <ev@> wrote:
> > >
> > > could you weld a couple of ball bearings into an oversized socket
> > for those
> > > nuts?
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Mike Phillips" <mikep_95133@>
> > > To: "EVDL" <ev@>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 1:03 AM
> > > Subject: BB600 odd nuts + 40 miles on first run!
> > >
> > >
> > > > The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something
special,
> > > > but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've
seen
> > > > before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I
> > can get
> > > > a socket for it.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
> > > >
> > > > These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32
screws
> > > > have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can
see it
> > > > under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars
and nuts
> > > > are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown
tint to
> > > > them.
> > > >
> > > > Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE
truck 40
> > > > miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree
ambient,
> > > > medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of
stop
> > > > lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for
a little
> > > > more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on
only 228
> > > > cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
> > > > today.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Found this today. 600 volt, 20amp, .15ohm FETs
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/FC/FCB20N60F.html
Will these work as drivers?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 2:21 AM
Subject: Re: Building a controller yourself
----- Original Message -----
From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Building a controller yourself
> What if you had a make before break on the sliding contacts and the
group of
> batteries were shorted out momentarily with a controlled means and
the motor
> would never know there was an abrubt change of voltage and there
would be no
> arching.
> Alex
>
Make-before-break in a series-parallel setup? Isn't that a recipe for
maximum arcing (i.e. short circuit)?
You Bet! Ya don't wanna short out the batteries!!Go" Rectacter'" design
and there ISN'T a dropping out of voltage when you speed up, Just steps
higher.
Bob
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/429 - Release Date: 8/28/06
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When I look at your pic the first thing I think of is some kind of
automated assembly where they use some kind of chuck that pushes some balls
or pins into the holes to hold onto the nut and to drive them on. Kind of
like an inside out version of the ball detent in a socket and rachet
wrench, the kind where you have to push the button to release the socket.
I bet that security fasteners place will know what you need.
At 04:52 PM 8/31/2006, you wrote:
That's certainly a clue. Thanks for the help.
Mike
--- Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Those are some weird nuts. Closest thing I could think of is that
> they're close to being a spanner nut or a tri groove nut.
>
> Then I found this:
>
>
http://www.securityfasteners.net/kinmar%20permanent%20security%20bolts%20and%20nuts.htm
>
> Take a look at the "Re-usable nut" picture on the left side. Very
> similar, but not exact.
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something
> special,
> > but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
> > before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can
> get
> > a socket for it.
> >
> > http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
> >
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 1, 2006, at 9:53 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: September 1, 2006 9:33:04 AM PDT
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Subject: Cuirb weights. Lets start a list.
(I've copied this from a car blog. It's 1990 cars so good for us. I
couldn't find much else. Anybody found other lists? What is the
Karmen Ghia
Curb Weight? Inquiring minds want to know. Lawrence Rhodes.)...
There's always a lot of talk here about how cars have become so
heavy. So
here's a list I've compiled from my car magazine archive.
All weights are in lbs.
EDIT: MPG FIGURES ADDED - these are from the 1990 EPA fuel economy
guide
Acura Integra 3-door - 2,544 24/28 MPG
Acura Legend - 3,139 19/24 MPG
Snip
This is great data Larwrence, but do you have any information on what
type of transmission is used in each of the gas mileage figures.
Auto or manual can skew the data by over 10%.
If anyone has any interest email me. I have a list for all 1999
model year cars. This is a sample. I do not want to waste bandwidth
with all 785 records. I am looking for more weight and payload data
for this database.
Type Make & Model Trans. City
Highway Displ. Cyl GVW Payload, lb
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet S10 L4 16
21 4.3 6 5050 1472
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet S10 M5 17
21 4.3 6 5050 1472
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet K1500 Siverado M5 15 18
4.3 6
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet K1500 Siverado M5 15 19
4.8 8
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet K1500 L4 14
18 5 8
Pickup 4WD Chevrolet K1500 Siverado L4 15 18
4.8 8
Small Pickup 2WD Chevrolet S10 L4 17 22
4.3 6 3225 1172
Small Pickup 2WD Chevrolet S10 M5 17 23
4.3 6 4200 1488
Small Pickup 2WD Chevrolet S10 M5 23 29
2.2 4 4200 1159
Small Pickup 2WD Chevrolet S10 L4 19 26
2.2 4 4600 1488
Mike Swift
Two things only the people anxiously desire—bread and circuses.
Decimus Junius Juvenalls
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
92 Honda Civic DX weighs 2220 stripped of AC, motor,
radiator, etc.
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> (I've copied this from a car blog. It's 1990 cars
> so good for us. I
> couldn't find much else. Anybody found other lists?
> What is the Karmen Ghia
> Curb Weight? Inquiring minds want to know.
> Lawrence Rhodes.)...
>
> There's always a lot of talk here about how cars
> have become so heavy. So
> here's a list I've compiled from my car magazine
> archive.
>
> All weights are in lbs.
>
> EDIT: MPG FIGURES ADDED - these are from the 1990
> EPA fuel economy guide
>
> Acura Integra 3-door - 2,544 24/28 MPG
> Acura Legend - 3,139 19/24 MPG
> Acura NSX - 2,850
> Alfa Rome Spider - 2,550 23/30 MPG
> Alfa Romeo 164S 3,335
> Audi V8 quattro - 3,946 14/18 MPG
> Audi 80 (FWD) - 2,612 22/30 MPG
> Audi Coupe quattro 20V - 3,171 18/24 MPG
> Audi 100 (FWD) - 2,932 18/24 MPG
> Audi 200 (FWD) - 3,080 17/25 MPG
> BMW 325i 4-door - 2,855 18/23 MPG
> BMW 325ix 4-door - 3,054
> BMW M3 - 3,055 17/29 MPG
> BMW 525i - 3,395 18/24 MPG
> BMW 335i - 3,530 15/23 MPG
> BMW 735i - 3,835 15/23 MPG
> BMW 750iL - 4,235 15/21 MPG
> Buick Electra - 3,288 19/28 MPG
> Buick Estate Wagon - 4,281 17/24 MPG
> Buick Reatta - 3,379 18/27 MPG
> Cadillac Brougham - 4,283 14/21 MPG
> Cadillac DeVille - 3,466 16/25 MPG
> Chevrolet Beretta 2-door - 3,000
> Chevrolet Camaro V6 - 3,077
> Chevrolet Cavalier 2-door - 2,436 25/32 MPG
> Chevrolet Celebrity 4-door - 2,888 21/27 MPG
> Chevrolet Corvette - 3,223 16/25 MPG
> Chevrolet Lumina 4-door V6 - 3,122 19/30 MPG
> Chrysler Imperial - 3,570 17/25 MPG
> Chrysler LeBaron V6- 2,810 20/26 MPG
> Chrysler TC by Maserati (turbo) - 3,200 20/32 MPG
> Chrysler Town & Country - 3,817 18/24 MPG
> Eagle Premier - 3,083 17/26 MPG
> Eagle Talon turbo (FWD) - 2,651 20/25 MPG
> Ford Escort 5-door - 2,310 27/36 MPG
> Ford LTD Crown Victoria - 3,821 17/24 MPG
> Ford Mustang LX (4 cyl.) - 2,759 23/29 MPG
> Ford Probe - 2,731 24/31 MPG
> Ford Taurus - 2,956 21/27 MPG
> Ford Tempo - 2,515 23/32 MPG
> Ford Thunderbird - 3,581 19/27 MPG
> Geo Metro 3-door - 1,591 53/58 MPG
> Geo Storm - 2,282 31/36 MPG
> Honda Accord - 2,773 24/30 MPG
> Honda CRX - 1,967 32/35 MPG
> Honda Prelude Si - 2,571 23/26 MPG
> Infiniti M30 - 3,333 19/25 MPG
> Infiniti Q45 - 3,950 16/22 MPG
> Isuzu Impulse - 2,411 26/34 MPG
> Jaguar XJ-6 - 3,903 17/22 MPG
> Jaguar XJ-S V-12 - 4,015 13/17 MPG
> Jeep Cherokee Limited - 3,453 16/20 MPG
> Lexus ES250 - 3,163 19/26 MPG
> Lexus LS400 - 3,755 18/23 MPG
> Lincoln Continental - 3,663 19/28 MPG
> Lincoln Mark VII - 3,779 17/24 MPG
> Lincoln Town Car - 4,025 17/24 MPG
> Mazda Miata - 2,182 25/30 MPG
> Mazda MPV 4WD - 3,920 17/22 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 2,800 17/25 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 2+2 - 2,880 17/25 MPG
> Mazda RX-7 convertible - 3,045 16/24 MPG
> Mazda 323 3-door - 2,238 29/37 MPG
> Mazda MX-6 - 2,560 24/31 MPG
> Mazda 929 - 3,477 18/22 MPG
> Mercedes 500SL - 3,970 14/18 MPG
> Mercedes 560SEC - 3,915 15/18 MPG
> Mercedes 190E 2.6 - 2,995 20/23 MPG
> Mercedes 300E sedan - 3,210 18/22 MPG
> Mitsubishi Galant - 2,601 23/29 MPG
> Mitsubishi Sigma V6 - 3,108 18/22 MPG
> Nissan Maxima - 3,193 20/26 MPG
> Nissan Stanza - 2,788 22/29 MPG
> Nissan 240SX - 2,657 20/27 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX - 3,219 18/24 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX 2+2 - 3,313 18/24 MPG
> Nissan 300ZX Turbo - 3,474 18/24 MPG
> Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme V6 2-door - 3,133 19/30
> MPG
> Oldsmobile Ninety Eight - 3,325 18/27 MPG
> Oldsmobile Toranado - 3,462 17/26 MPG
> Peugeot 405S 4-door - 2,460 20/27 MPG
> Peugeot 505 4-door - 2,998 18/22 MPG
> Plymouth Horizon - 2,296 26/35 MPG
> Plymouth Voyager 3,100 21/23 MPG
> Pontiac Bonneville - 3,325 18/27 MPG
> Pontiac Grand Prix 2-door - 3,186 19/30 MPG
> Pontiac Trans Sport - 3,500 18/23 MPG
> Pontiac 6000 - 2,843 24/31 MPG
> Porashe 911 Carrera 2 - 3,031 16/24 MPG
> Porsche 911 Carrera 4 - 3,252
> Porsche 928 S4 - 3,505 13/19 MPG
> Porsche 944 S2 - 2,998 17/26 MPG
> Range Rover - 4,389 13/16 MPG
> Saab 900 S 3-door - 2,732 22/28 MPG
> Saab 9000 5-door - 3,004 21/28 MPG
> Sterling 827 5-door - 3,230 19/24 MPG
> Subaru Justy 3-door (FWD) - 1,745 33/37 MPG
> Subaru Legacy 4-door (FWD) - 2,620 18/24 MPG
> Subaru Legacy 4-door (4WD) - 2,830 23/30 MPG
> Subaru Loyale wagon (FWD) - 2,370
> Subaru XT (FWD) - 2,455 25/31 MPG
> Toyota Camry (4 cyl.) 2,690 26/34 MPG
> Toyota Camry All-Trac - 3,086
> Toyota Celica GT - 2,696 23/29 MPG
> Toyota Celica GT-S - 2,975
> Toyota Celica All-Trac Turbo - 3,272 19/24 MPG
> Toyota Corolla 4-door - 2,390 28/33 MPG
> Toyota Corolla 4-door All-trac - 2,650
> Toyota Cressida - 3,417 19/24 MPG
> Toyota MR-2 - 2,350 26/31 MPG
> Toyota MR-2 Supercharged - 2,493 24/30 MPG
> Toyota Supra - 3,463 18/23 MPG
> Volkswagan Coraddo G60 - 2,695 21/28 MPG
> Volkswagen Fox 4-door - 2,203 25/30 MPG
> Volkswagen Golf 5-door - 2,246 15/44 MPG
> Volkswagen Golf GTI 16V - 2,262 22/29 MPG
> Volkswagen Jetta - 2,305
> Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V - 2,440
> Volvo 240 sedan - 2,919 21/28 MPG
> Volvo 740 sedan - 2,954 21/28 MPG
> Volvo 780 coupe - 3,415 18/21 MPG
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
thanks Jerry, I need one that goes to 2000amps, I ordered the B&K model
367A, it'll do 400A/2000A AC/DC.
Jerry Rhodes wrote:
Jack I have a spare Fluke 80i-1010 1000amp AC/DC probe that I use with
my Conar or Micronta DVMs I would let go for $75 shipped..I can send
pics if needed
Jerry NWO
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Murray"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
The LH2015 looks good, but online prices are $495. Can I buy yours
for $150? :)
B&K Precision has one through Digikey, 367A, that is $209, think i'll
buy that one unless I hear otherwise.
Jack
Rick Todd wrote:
Jack,
I actually just purchased a new clamp on meter from fluke about 2
months ago
and have been happy with it.
This is the link,
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/LH2015.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&;
Category=CLMP(FlukeProducts)
It was about $130 from my local supply house.
Regards,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jack Murray
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 12:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: AC/DC 1000-2000 Amp Meter
I need to buy a clamp-on Amp meter, I prefer one that can handle
2000A, both
AC and DC.
Prefer it not to cost a lot of course, but I don't want any junk either.
Anyone have suggestions? thanks,
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I ordered one of those GE series wound motors from Surplus Center, and
it has a male 1.25" 14T splined shaft. Finding internally splined
couplers / hubs / sprockets to mate up to this thing is proving to be
really difficult, at least via web searches. Anyone have a source that
they _know_ carries this sort of thing? I checked (amongst many others)
mcmaster and SDP-SI, with little success.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Without an exotic battery, it would make a good city commuter car, but
> limited highway usability. FYI, after conversion still allowed ~300 lbs to
> remain under manufacturers gross weight.
Hmm, so that would be me and a backpack.
Just out of curiousity, are these things certified for on road use in the
USA?
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Options:
File two flat surfaces on each nut (or use a dremel cutter), remove with
crescent wrench
Use a small diameter hex socket that you don't care about, mounted in a
drill or air wrench, and spin the nuts off at high speed, letting the
friction dig in.
Use a nut splitter, though finding one small enough that it doesn't
short something will be difficult.
Use a burr bit on a dremel to make the angles holes into vertical holes
or grooves. Use a pin spanner wrench to remove nuts. Or a flat piece
of metal that's the right width.
Get a thick-walled tube that has an ID that's just slightly larger than
the nut, drill angled holes, tap threads, put hardened (gr 8)
small-diameter screws into holes tapped so that they angle into holes on
nuts. You just have to _loosen_ all the nuts, then take them off by hand.
Mike Phillips wrote:
These wierdo nuts are killing me! I can't even get them apart and
start installing the cells into the truck! I suppose machining a
socket would work, but I hate to scratch up nickel plated hardware.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
a socket for it.
http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
them.
Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
today.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
Where did you get the bb600's from? Are there more?
-- Eric
Mike Phillips wrote:
The BB600 packs I got are 19 to a box. The box is something special,
but the nuts that hold the buss bars in place are not one I've seen
before. Here is a link. Please tell me what that nut it is so I can get
a socket for it.
http://www.rotordesign.com/s10/nuts2.jpg
These BB600 cells are also different in that the normal 10-32 screws
have been replaced with a 10-32 to 3/8" stud-standoff. You can see it
under the buss bar. Maybe for higher current. The buss bars and nuts
are covered with Cosmolene. So that's why they have a brown tint to
them.
Tonight these cells on their first journey out took the USE truck 40
miles on 38ah at night, headlights and radio on, 66 degree ambient,
medium lead foot, 34-40mph in stop and go traffic with lots of stop
lights. Awesome first run! I think I can get 50 miles. So for a little
more weight the truck has well over doubled it's mileage on only 228
cells. There are 24 more going into the box, but they just arrived
today.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> I ordered one of those GE series wound motors from Surplus
> Center, and it has a male 1.25" 14T splined shaft. Finding
> internally splined couplers / hubs / sprockets to mate up to
> this thing is proving to be really difficult, at least via
> web searches. Anyone have a source that they _know_ carries
> this sort of thing?
p/n 0332-00034 on this page looks like what you want:
<http://catalogs.hubcityinc.com/farmrev/nonPTOproducts.html#4>
Or, for CAD$12.99, p/n 3840485 (at the bottom of p97):
<http://65.110.80.25/pdfs/gas-CAN.pdf>
(This is from Princess Auto
<http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=home>, but their
online searching sucks, so it seems you need to download the appropriate
catalog .pdf and use the mail-order form in the catalog if you want to
order from them).
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
