--- Begin Message ---
Looking to do some comparisons on my 1965 Datsun Truck.
1st gear = 3.94
2nd gear = 2.40
3rd gear = 1.49
4th gear = 1.00
Rear end = 4.875
Can any of the small truck owners fill me in on transmissions gear
ratios and rear end ratio for their particular truck?
Motor type and controller?
Also how you normally drive the truck;
Example; Start off in 2nd gear go to third, etc.
Any opinions on performance using different gear combinations / driving
techniques.
Thanks:
Dennis
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------_=_NextPart_001_01C6D284.EC4DF7A3"
Subject: Gear Ratios
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:52:56 -0500
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
X-MS-Has-Attach:
X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thread-Topic: Gear Ratios
Thread-Index: AcbShOzVCiqLXZzmSRuyU4KaFiHHuQ==
From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion Group--
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 13:55:51 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Dave Cover <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I'm a home brew kind of guy for sure. But the plating shop only wants
$72 for load of parts to be nickel plated. If I can figure out a
better plating for EV use I'll use that. But for that money and in 2
days I get them back, it's worth it. Besides, my little garage is
packed. I'd be plating stuff in the bathtub!
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The primary reason for plating is protection from NiCad electrolyte,
KOH. Nickel will do the job,
> but I thought I read recently that tin isn't sufficient. I'll have
to try a little exposure test.
>
> --- Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > A lot of talk about plating copper bus bars. Proceedure below
looks pretty complex. I have
> > used a product which is very simple and works very well. It is
Kepro immersion tin plating
> > solution. Tin plating copper is more common than nickel, I
believe. This process puts a film
> > of 0.00002 inch thick. Not too expensive and easy to use. Parts
I have done 5 or 6 years ago
> > look brand new. Good luck.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Well there's also brush plating, which is how a lot of small
stuff like
> > gold plated car emblems are done. It can produce good results if done
> > well, though generally it's an inferior process to tank plating.
> > However, it's much cheaper than filling a tank with solution. Having
> > gallons of sodium cyanide solution around is kinda scary too.
> >
> > Also IIRC gold does not work well directly on top of copper. One
is the
> > gold plating is somewhat porous and any corrosion underneath the gold
> > will be a problem, I also heard migration was another problem. The
> > solution was usually a barrier layer of nickle plated down first.
> > Nickle is irritating to many people's skin so jewelry more often
uses a
> > more expensive rhodium barrier layer, except for the really cheap
jewelry.
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > Roland Wiench wrote:
> >
> > >Hello Mike,
> > >
> > >Plating the buss bars, is the way I would go. It is easy to do
with the
> > >following setup:
> > >
> > >The plating tank can be acrylic fiberglass, polyethylene,
polyprophlene or
> > >glass with a flat open surface which you can lay two lengths of 2
x 2 wood
> > >space apart on top of the container.
> > >
> > >The wood holds three solid copper wires by inserting them into
drill holes
> > >in the wood. These rods are all space apart.
> > >
> > >The center rod, will be the hold the object you want to plate
which is call
> > >the cathode which comes from a negative DC source.
> > >
> > >The outside two rods, will hold the metal you are plating from
which is call
> > >the anode which comes from a positive DC source.
> > >
> > >The object you want to plate and the cathodes are suspended from
the copper
> > >rods by using a small bare copper wire that is attach to the
copper rods
> > >buss with alligator clips.
> > >
> > >You should always suspend the object you want to plate in the
center of the
> > >bath and surround it with at least four cathodes. This gives it even
> > >plating on all sides.
> > >
> > >The four anodes can be stainless steel if you use a bath using the
> > >electrolyte contain the metal you want to plate with.
> > >
> > >I find its it easer to just use the anodes as the metal you want
to plate,
> > >but sometimes this is a higher cost.
> > >
> > >Use distill water with 3 to 6 percent sodium per gallon solution
using gold
> > >bars or you can use sodium gold cyanide in a 3.6 percent per gallon
> > >solution, a sodium cyanide of 3.6 to 7.2 percent per gallon and
disodium
> > >phosphate of 3.6 to 10.8 percent per gallon.
> > >
> > >Use a battery with a maximum of 12 volts at a sustained current
of 0 to 12
> > >amps for small items to 10 to 20 amps for larger items.
Electroplating is
> > >normally done from 2 volts for a fine finish to 10 volts for a
course
> > >finish. If you are plating with gold, you only need 15 to 20
seconds. Gold
> > >is rarely thicker than 0.0001 inch.
> > >
> > >If you want a thicker deposit, you must removed the object after
20 seconds,
> > >clean it and plating again.
> > >
> > >To clean the object you want to plate, you can reversed the
current from the
> > >cathode to the anodes. It is best to do this in a separate
cleaning tank.
> > >This only takes seconds.
> > >
> > >I started to clean copper bars one time, and I left them in too
long, 30
> > >seconds and they look like they were sand blast, not smooth at all.
> > >
> > >If you used a electrolytes bath of the base metal you want to
use, it is
> > >recommended that these solutions are heated from a range of 70 to
150 degree
> > >F. which the electroplating solutions to work at.
> > >
> > >I find it is just best to have the anodes as the plating metal.
> > >
> > >while you are at it, you can plate all you battery connectors,
bolts, nuts
> > >and etc.
> > >
> > >Roland
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Mike Phillips"
> > >To: "Roland Wiench"
> > >Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:25 PM
> > >Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Roland Wiench" wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Hello Mike,
> > >>>
> > >>>Make sure when you get your buss bars plated, you have them plate a
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>high
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>conductive alloy. Nickel plating will increase the resistance.
> > >>>
> > >>>I found this out when I install all nickel plated fasteners on my
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>battery
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>links. My copper bars at one time was coated with a very thin
frosted
> > >>>silvery coating which is a normal coating for buss bars. I don't
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>have the
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>specs on that type of alloy. This coating is normally used in
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>electrical
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>connections which might be a alloy of copper and cadmium which
gives
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>it a
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>frosted silvery copper tone.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>I think that is what my buss bars and nuts are coasted with.
They have
> > >>very close to what you describe for the plating surface.
> > >>
> > >>I wish we knew what the plating was!!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Nickel is too high resistance, but has good corrosion resistance.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>They are
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>good for battery fasteners, but do not use them between the buss
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>bars and
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>the battery terminals.
> > >>>
> > >>>Copper has too high corrosion factor.
> > >>>
> > >>>Silver which is a very good conductor but is subject to corrosion.
> > >>>
> > >>>Gold plating is a little less conductance then silver but it
has a high
> > >>>resistance to corrosion.
> > >>>
> > >>>So I used gold plating fasters between my battery post and cadmium
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>plated
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>links, which acts like a bi-metal connection which we used in our
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>overhead
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>line electrical work. It works good.
> > >>>
> > >>>If we have buss bar links that does not fit the bolt holes just
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>right, we
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>then drill them out a little larger and apply Tinning Butter and
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>apply a
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>little lead to that area, or use a re-plating kit that you can
plate
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>this
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>link with any alloy you want.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>Is tinning butter just pure tin + flux?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>You can get the plating solutions in the kit, or can purchase them
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>in large
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>bulk from the Fisher Laboratory Scientific Supply Companies.
> > >>>
> > >>>I found that the contact area makes a good conduction path. After
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>we remove
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>them after years of surface, the surface was still highly polish to
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>a mirror
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>finish.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>So plating a polished surface is the best idea? I made my plates
from
> > >>polished copper for the old lead acid pack. Plating them would make
> > >>them a good bet for the Nicads.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>You can can this Tinning Butter, Lead sticks, and even Cadmium
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>plating kits
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>from www.eastwoodcompany.com
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>I haven't looked those guys up in years. Thanks for the reminder.
> > >>
> > >>Mike
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cable sheilding
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:00:21 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello Erik,
This will work for mechanical protection, as for noise suppression, the DC
battery cables from battery to controller do not have much effect.
It may from the controller to the motor which is pulsating DC.
At one time, I ran four 2/0 cables in one 2 inch Sealtite conduit under the
car. Came up into the motor bay bend at 90 degree strap to the fire wall
with a Sealtite box connector and bushing. The other end also had a
Sealtite box connecter that connected to a conduit hole in the sheet metal
of the trunk area of the car.
I now run all these cable in a wireway or a ductway which is in the bottom
of the console that runs inside the car from front to rear. The
communication cables which are double shield are in the same wireway. I
still use smaller conduits and spare conduits, for all my wires, so I can
rewire new circuits as required, by just pulling in new wires.
I have no AM, FM or XM noise at all.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Bigelow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 12:40 AM
Subject: Cable sheilding
> Hi all,
>
> I was discussing how I was going to run the cable from the rear battery
> box
> in my EV to the front, and I was thinking of using 2 runs of 3/4" flexible
> armored conduit right next to eachother to help make some tight turns that
> a
> single larger conduit would have trouble with. The cables won't be
> touching
> eachother, but will be very close, and each conduit is armored. I could
> connect the armor of each conduit together. Will this work to contain
> radiated noise?
>
> As a side note, are the battery cables all that noisy anyway? I would
> think
> think the motor loop would be orders of magnitude worse and drown out any
> emissions from the battery cable runs.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Erik
>
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/823
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 07:23:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Immersion tin plating solution is $98 for a gollon. dalpro.net. I used a
glass dish as used to bake cakes and stuff. Could use plastic. Solution has
shelf life of one year, but worked for me at three years old. A gallon did
hundreds of bus bars for me, 3 inch to 12 inch long. Takes about 20 minutes to
do a batch. Local shop sounds like good option also.
None of my bus bars went on nickel batteries. A few on PbAcid. Most onto
power electronics and resistor banks.
Jeff
Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm a home brew kind of guy for sure. But the plating shop only wants
$72 for load of parts to be nickel plated. If I can figure out a
better plating for EV use I'll use that. But for that money and in 2
days I get them back, it's worth it. Besides, my little garage is
packed. I'd be plating stuff in the bathtub!
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Dave Cover wrote:
>
> The primary reason for plating is protection from NiCad electrolyte,
KOH. Nickel will do the job,
> but I thought I read recently that tin isn't sufficient. I'll have
to try a little exposure test.
>
> --- Jeff Major wrote:
>
> > A lot of talk about plating copper bus bars. Proceedure below
looks pretty complex. I have
> > used a product which is very simple and works very well. It is
Kepro immersion tin plating
> > solution. Tin plating copper is more common than nickel, I
believe. This process puts a film
> > of 0.00002 inch thick. Not too expensive and easy to use. Parts
I have done 5 or 6 years ago
> > look brand new. Good luck.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > Danny Miller wrote:
> > Well there's also brush plating, which is how a lot of small
stuff like
> > gold plated car emblems are done. It can produce good results if done
> > well, though generally it's an inferior process to tank plating.
> > However, it's much cheaper than filling a tank with solution. Having
> > gallons of sodium cyanide solution around is kinda scary too.
> >
> > Also IIRC gold does not work well directly on top of copper. One
is the
> > gold plating is somewhat porous and any corrosion underneath the gold
> > will be a problem, I also heard migration was another problem. The
> > solution was usually a barrier layer of nickle plated down first.
> > Nickle is irritating to many people's skin so jewelry more often
uses a
> > more expensive rhodium barrier layer, except for the really cheap
jewelry.
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > Roland Wiench wrote:
> >
> > >Hello Mike,
> > >
> > >Plating the buss bars, is the way I would go. It is easy to do
with the
> > >following setup:
> > >
> > >The plating tank can be acrylic fiberglass, polyethylene,
polyprophlene or
> > >glass with a flat open surface which you can lay two lengths of 2
x 2 wood
> > >space apart on top of the container.
> > >
> > >The wood holds three solid copper wires by inserting them into
drill holes
> > >in the wood. These rods are all space apart.
> > >
> > >The center rod, will be the hold the object you want to plate
which is call
> > >the cathode which comes from a negative DC source.
> > >
> > >The outside two rods, will hold the metal you are plating from
which is call
> > >the anode which comes from a positive DC source.
> > >
> > >The object you want to plate and the cathodes are suspended from
the copper
> > >rods by using a small bare copper wire that is attach to the
copper rods
> > >buss with alligator clips.
> > >
> > >You should always suspend the object you want to plate in the
center of the
> > >bath and surround it with at least four cathodes. This gives it even
> > >plating on all sides.
> > >
> > >The four anodes can be stainless steel if you use a bath using the
> > >electrolyte contain the metal you want to plate with.
> > >
> > >I find its it easer to just use the anodes as the metal you want
to plate,
> > >but sometimes this is a higher cost.
> > >
> > >Use distill water with 3 to 6 percent sodium per gallon solution
using gold
> > >bars or you can use sodium gold cyanide in a 3.6 percent per gallon
> > >solution, a sodium cyanide of 3.6 to 7.2 percent per gallon and
disodium
> > >phosphate of 3.6 to 10.8 percent per gallon.
> > >
> > >Use a battery with a maximum of 12 volts at a sustained current
of 0 to 12
> > >amps for small items to 10 to 20 amps for larger items.
Electroplating is
> > >normally done from 2 volts for a fine finish to 10 volts for a
course
> > >finish. If you are plating with gold, you only need 15 to 20
seconds. Gold
> > >is rarely thicker than 0.0001 inch.
> > >
> > >If you want a thicker deposit, you must removed the object after
20 seconds,
> > >clean it and plating again.
> > >
> > >To clean the object you want to plate, you can reversed the
current from the
> > >cathode to the anodes. It is best to do this in a separate
cleaning tank.
> > >This only takes seconds.
> > >
> > >I started to clean copper bars one time, and I left them in too
long, 30
> > >seconds and they look like they were sand blast, not smooth at all.
> > >
> > >If you used a electrolytes bath of the base metal you want to
use, it is
> > >recommended that these solutions are heated from a range of 70 to
150 degree
> > >F. which the electroplating solutions to work at.
> > >
> > >I find it is just best to have the anodes as the plating metal.
> > >
> > >while you are at it, you can plate all you battery connectors,
bolts, nuts
> > >and etc.
> > >
> > >Roland
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Mike Phillips"
> > >To: "Roland Wiench"
> > >Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:25 PM
> > >Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Roland Wiench" wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Hello Mike,
> > >>>
> > >>>Make sure when you get your buss bars plated, you have them plate a
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>high
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>conductive alloy. Nickel plating will increase the resistance.
> > >>>
> > >>>I found this out when I install all nickel plated fasteners on my
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>battery
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>links. My copper bars at one time was coated with a very thin
frosted
> > >>>silvery coating which is a normal coating for buss bars. I don't
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>have the
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>specs on that type of alloy. This coating is normally used in
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>electrical
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>connections which might be a alloy of copper and cadmium which
gives
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>it a
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>frosted silvery copper tone.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>I think that is what my buss bars and nuts are coasted with.
They have
> > >>very close to what you describe for the plating surface.
> > >>
> > >>I wish we knew what the plating was!!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Nickel is too high resistance, but has good corrosion resistance.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>They are
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>good for battery fasteners, but do not use them between the buss
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>bars and
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>the battery terminals.
> > >>>
> > >>>Copper has too high corrosion factor.
> > >>>
> > >>>Silver which is a very good conductor but is subject to corrosion.
> > >>>
> > >>>Gold plating is a little less conductance then silver but it
has a high
> > >>>resistance to corrosion.
> > >>>
> > >>>So I used gold plating fasters between my battery post and cadmium
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>plated
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>links, which acts like a bi-metal connection which we used in our
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>overhead
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>line electrical work. It works good.
> > >>>
> > >>>If we have buss bar links that does not fit the bolt holes just
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>right, we
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>then drill them out a little larger and apply Tinning Butter and
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>apply a
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>little lead to that area, or use a re-plating kit that you can
plate
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>this
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>link with any alloy you want.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>Is tinning butter just pure tin + flux?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>You can get the plating solutions in the kit, or can purchase them
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>in large
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>bulk from the Fisher Laboratory Scientific Supply Companies.
> > >>>
> > >>>I found that the contact area makes a good conduction path. After
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>we remove
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>them after years of surface, the surface was still highly polish to
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>a mirror
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>finish.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>So plating a polished surface is the best idea? I made my plates
from
> > >>polished copper for the old lead acid pack. Plating them would make
> > >>them a good bet for the Nicads.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>You can can this Tinning Butter, Lead sticks, and even Cadmium
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>plating kits
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>from www.eastwoodcompany.com
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>I haven't looked those guys up in years. Thanks for the reminder.
> > >>
> > >>Mike
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
From: "Tim Ireland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Subject: EVs on TV in Australia. The Dateline footage, and WKTEC movie.
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 22:58:17 +0930
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
For all those listers here in Australia, the feature filmed by
'Dateline' that John Wayland has mentioned and should include some White
Zombie action is due to air on next Wednesdays edition.
It is running under the title of "Who killed the Electric Car"
advertised on the SBS Dateline website as "coming soon" without a date,
so I rang today and was told it is scheduled for Wednesday 13 September
2006, 8:30pm... then repeats on the following Thursday and Monday at
1:00pm.
I am organising a friend to record it as I will be on a plane between
Sydney and Adelaide.
The movie "Who killed the Electric Car" was originally scheduled for
release by the main cinema chain here in Aus (Greater Union) in mid
August but, as reported previously on this list, they changed their mind
and did not pick it up.
However, the great news is it's now scheduled for release on 2 November
through the Village Cinema chain... Well, it's great news if you live in
Victoria, Tasmania or New South Wales!
Unfortunately for me, I am in South Australia... and Village Cinemas are
not, so I am waiting for a call back from Sony Pictures Australia to
find out who is bringing it to the rest of Australia.
Tim Ireland
Adelaide, South Oz
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 09:28:09 -0700
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Trike
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
richard weaver wrote:
> I plan on building a trike similar to the R.Q. Riley Urba Trike...
> I need advice on motor etc. that will get desired performance.
> My commute is about 50 miles with some hills and about 20 miles
> of highway.
50 miles at highway speeds is hard to do with an inexpensive EV. It
usually takes expensive batteries or an exceptionally efficient vehicle.
But if it's 50 miles round trip (25 miles there, 25 miles back), and you
can charge at work, then it's fairly easy.
For cheap, simple, and good performing, Jerry Dycus's "Woody" EV is
pretty hard to beat. He used an old VW Beetle front end, a single rear
wheel, chain driven from a golf cart motor, plywood 2-seater body, 72v
worth of 6v golf cart batteries, series/parallel contactor controller,
and a golf cart charger.
Officially, it's a motorcycle. He drove it for almost 10 years! He can
tell you more, but as I recall it had a top speed around 50 mph, and a
range of about 50 miles.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Wanted: Used Adaptor for 1987 Chevy S10 w/ 2.5 L 4 cyl engine
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 09:37:44 -0500
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Last time I'll bother y'all w/ this one. I pulled the motor and
transmission over the labor day weekend (they were a greasy, filthy, MESS!),
so I'm just about ready for the adaptor and motor mount. Would like to save
a few bucks and find a used one......don't suppose anyone has one lying
around???......
Looks like the Zilla controller I ordered will be the long pole in the tent
as far as completion of the EV....anyone got any news in that department??
Mike
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:43:10 -0600
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hello Dennis,
The 1st gear overall ratio of 19.20 is good for a EV weight up to 8000 lbs
using 300 Ah batteries.
My 1st gear overall ratio is 3.5 1st gear x 5.57 differential is 19.495:1.
My EV weighs 6860 lbs and loaded can weigh 7100 lbs. I always take off in
1st gear and accelerated up to 15 mph which is about 3000 rpm before I shift
to 2nd. I can keep my battery ampere below 50 amps in 1st gear.
In 2nd gear the overall ration is 2.5:1 1st gear x 5.57 differential is
13.9:1.
I then can accelerated up to 25 mph which is about 3000 before I shift to
3rd which is 1:1 ratio.
In 1st or 2nd gear, I can keep the battery amps to 50 amps and motor amps to
200 amps. If I cruse in any of these gears, my battery amps will drop as
low as 30 amps and the motor amps at 100 amps.
If I want to get wild, I can accelerated up hill with a 10% grade and get of
burst of 500 motor amps and then its steadies out at 300 motor amps with a
battery amp of 75 to 125 amps.
Here is a simple ratio formula:
2400 wthr = 100lbs = 50mph =60min = 1:1 ratio
If you have a 5000 lb EV then 5000/100 = 50
2400 wthr x 50 = 120,000 wthr
If you have a 4:1 overall ratio then 120,000/4 =
30,000 wthr
If you use 200 volts of batteries, than 30,000/200 = 150 AH battery.
In all these cases, the range is 50 miles at 50 mph in 60 minutes. As you
decrease the speed the range will increase proportional.
You can find what overall gear ratio is needed for different EV weights.
This is in the ballpark area, depending on the efficiency of the body and
mechanical.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion Group" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Gear Ratios
Looking to do some comparisons on my 1965 Datsun Truck.
1st gear = 3.94
2nd gear = 2.40
3rd gear = 1.49
4th gear = 1.00
Rear end = 4.875
Can any of the small truck owners fill me in on transmissions gear
ratios and rear end ratio for their particular truck?
Motor type and controller?
Also how you normally drive the truck;
Example; Start off in 2nd gear go to third, etc.
Any opinions on performance using different gear combinations / driving
techniques.
Thanks:
Dennis
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>
> ------_=_NextPart_001_01C6D284.EC4DF7A3"
> Subject: Gear Ratios
> Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:52:56 -0500
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> X-MS-Has-Attach:
> X-MS-TNEF-Correlator:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thread-Topic: Gear Ratios
> Thread-Index: AcbShOzVCiqLXZzmSRuyU4KaFiHHuQ==
> From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV Discussion Group--
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 07:56:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: EVs on TV in Australia. The Dateline footage, and WKTEC movie.
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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--- Tim Ireland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For all those listers here in Australia, the feature filmed by
> 'Dateline' that John Wayland has mentioned and should include some White
> Zombie action is due to air on next Wednesdays edition.
>
Let us know if they post the episode anywhere the rest of the world can see it.
Thanks
Dave Cover
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 09:51:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: driving an A/C compressor
From: "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Folks,
I'd like to drive an air conditioning compressor with an electric motor
(separate from the traction motor). As much as I'd prefer to drive the
compressor directly, I am guessing I'll end up driving it with a belt
because A) I got a good deal on a 2HP motor but it will need some
reduction to be useful, and B) I've been told that the pulley on the
compressor is engaged to the bearing on that end, and so operating without
the pulley might cause shaft seal leakage. Two questions:
First, has anyone modified a stock automotive compressor for direct drive
from an electric motor? What was necessary? Is the bit about the pulley
and bearing true?
Second, if I'm to drive this thing with a belt on the existing compressor
pulley, I'll need a 2.5" - 3" diameter 6-groove K-section pulley for an
automotive ribbed flat belt. Preferably one that takes an SK style
bushing. I've searched and searched (and searched!) and I've had no luck
in finding anyone online selling K-section pulleys in a decent selection
of sizes. McMaster's only ribbed flat belt pulleys are J-section (too
small) and the K-section pulleys sold on Lister generator sites are far
too large in diameter, and too heavy. Where would I find a pulley of the
size and type that I need?
If I could afford it, I'd be tempted to go buy myself a lathe... :o)
--chris
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:11:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Waite <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 06 NEDRA PIR Late Nite Nationals (Part 1)
To: EVDL <[email protected]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Dedicated with sincere admiration to all NEDRA participants & supporters.
Go to: http://www.photoshow.net/battcar/pir_august_2006 and click on
NEDRA_PIR_2006 Between the Tracks.
Select your access speed and enjoy!
[Sorry this took so long to publish and that I couldnt include everyone in
attendance (I think I got most of the names correct).]
Part II NEDRA_PIR_2006 Trackside hopefully tomorrow
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:15:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
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It would be nice to know if the tin plating would be ok in the long run
pressed against nickel plating. Although I'm not convinced that these
parts are nickel plated. Any idea how tin is in the presence of KOH?
Mike
--- Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Immersion tin plating solution is $98 for a gollon. dalpro.net. I
> used a glass dish as used to bake cakes and stuff. Could use
> plastic. Solution has shelf life of one year, but worked for me at
> three years old. A gallon did hundreds of bus bars for me, 3 inch to
> 12 inch long. Takes about 20 minutes to do a batch. Local shop
> sounds like good option also.
>
> None of my bus bars went on nickel batteries. A few on PbAcid.
> Most onto power electronics and resistor banks.
>
> Jeff
>
> Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm a home brew kind of guy for sure. But the plating shop only
> wants
> $72 for load of parts to be nickel plated. If I can figure out a
> better plating for EV use I'll use that. But for that money and in 2
> days I get them back, it's worth it. Besides, my little garage is
> packed. I'd be plating stuff in the bathtub!
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Dave Cover wrote:
> >
> > The primary reason for plating is protection from NiCad
> electrolyte,
> KOH. Nickel will do the job,
> > but I thought I read recently that tin isn't sufficient. I'll have
> to try a little exposure test.
> >
> > --- Jeff Major wrote:
> >
> > > A lot of talk about plating copper bus bars. Proceedure below
> looks pretty complex. I have
> > > used a product which is very simple and works very well. It is
> Kepro immersion tin plating
> > > solution. Tin plating copper is more common than nickel, I
> believe. This process puts a film
> > > of 0.00002 inch thick. Not too expensive and easy to use. Parts
> I have done 5 or 6 years ago
> > > look brand new. Good luck.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > Danny Miller wrote:
> > > Well there's also brush plating, which is how a lot of small
> stuff like
> > > gold plated car emblems are done. It can produce good results if
> done
> > > well, though generally it's an inferior process to tank plating.
> > > However, it's much cheaper than filling a tank with solution.
> Having
> > > gallons of sodium cyanide solution around is kinda scary too.
> > >
> > > Also IIRC gold does not work well directly on top of copper. One
> is the
> > > gold plating is somewhat porous and any corrosion underneath the
> gold
> > > will be a problem, I also heard migration was another problem.
> The
> > > solution was usually a barrier layer of nickle plated down first.
>
> > > Nickle is irritating to many people's skin so jewelry more often
> uses a
> > > more expensive rhodium barrier layer, except for the really cheap
> jewelry.
> > >
> > > Danny
> > >
> > > Roland Wiench wrote:
> > >
> > > >Hello Mike,
> > > >
> > > >Plating the buss bars, is the way I would go. It is easy to do
> with the
> > > >following setup:
> > > >
> > > >The plating tank can be acrylic fiberglass, polyethylene,
> polyprophlene or
> > > >glass with a flat open surface which you can lay two lengths of
> 2
> x 2 wood
> > > >space apart on top of the container.
> > > >
> > > >The wood holds three solid copper wires by inserting them into
> drill holes
> > > >in the wood. These rods are all space apart.
> > > >
> > > >The center rod, will be the hold the object you want to plate
> which is call
> > > >the cathode which comes from a negative DC source.
> > > >
> > > >The outside two rods, will hold the metal you are plating from
> which is call
> > > >the anode which comes from a positive DC source.
> > > >
> > > >The object you want to plate and the cathodes are suspended from
> the copper
> > > >rods by using a small bare copper wire that is attach to the
> copper rods
> > > >buss with alligator clips.
> > > >
> > > >You should always suspend the object you want to plate in the
> center of the
> > > >bath and surround it with at least four cathodes. This gives it
> even
> > > >plating on all sides.
> > > >
> > > >The four anodes can be stainless steel if you use a bath using
> the
> > > >electrolyte contain the metal you want to plate with.
> > > >
> > > >I find its it easer to just use the anodes as the metal you want
> to plate,
> > > >but sometimes this is a higher cost.
> > > >
> > > >Use distill water with 3 to 6 percent sodium per gallon solution
> using gold
> > > >bars or you can use sodium gold cyanide in a 3.6 percent per
> gallon
> > > >solution, a sodium cyanide of 3.6 to 7.2 percent per gallon and
> disodium
> > > >phosphate of 3.6 to 10.8 percent per gallon.
> > > >
> > > >Use a battery with a maximum of 12 volts at a sustained current
> of 0 to 12
> > > >amps for small items to 10 to 20 amps for larger items.
> Electroplating is
> > > >normally done from 2 volts for a fine finish to 10 volts for a
> course
> > > >finish. If you are plating with gold, you only need 15 to 20
> seconds. Gold
> > > >is rarely thicker than 0.0001 inch.
> > > >
> > > >If you want a thicker deposit, you must removed the object after
> 20 seconds,
> > > >clean it and plating again.
> > > >
> > > >To clean the object you want to plate, you can reversed the
> current from the
> > > >cathode to the anodes. It is best to do this in a separate
> cleaning tank.
> > > >This only takes seconds.
> > > >
> > > >I started to clean copper bars one time, and I left them in too
> long, 30
> > > >seconds and they look like they were sand blast, not smooth at
> all.
> > > >
> > > >If you used a electrolytes bath of the base metal you want to
> use, it is
> > > >recommended that these solutions are heated from a range of 70
> to
> 150 degree
> > > >F. which the electroplating solutions to work at.
> > > >
> > > >I find it is just best to have the anodes as the plating metal.
> > > >
> > > >while you are at it, you can plate all you battery connectors,
> bolts, nuts
> > > >and etc.
> > > >
> > > >Roland
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: "Mike Phillips"
> > > >To: "Roland Wiench"
> > > >Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:25 PM
> > > >Subject: Re: USE S10 Nicad layout
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Roland Wiench" wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>Hello Mike,
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Make sure when you get your buss bars plated, you have them
> plate a
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>high
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>conductive alloy. Nickel plating will increase the resistance.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I found this out when I install all nickel plated fasteners on
> my
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>battery
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>links. My copper bars at one time was coated with a very thin
> frosted
> > > >>>silvery coating which is a normal coating for buss bars. I
> don't
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>have the
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>specs on that type of alloy. This coating is normally used in
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>electrical
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>connections which might be a alloy of copper and cadmium which
> gives
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>it a
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>frosted silvery copper tone.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>I think that is what my buss bars and nuts are coasted with.
> They have
> > > >>very close to what you describe for the plating surface.
> > > >>
> > > >>I wish we knew what the plating was!!
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>Nickel is too high resistance, but has good corrosion
> resistance.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>They are
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>good for battery fasteners, but do not use them between the
> buss
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>bars and
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>the battery terminals.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Copper has too high corrosion factor.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Silver which is a very good conductor but is subject to
> corrosion.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Gold plating is a little less conductance then silver but it
> has a high
> > > >>>resistance to corrosion.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>So I used gold plating fasters between my battery post and
> cadmium
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>plated
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>links, which acts like a bi-metal connection which we used in
> our
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>overhead
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>line electrical work. It works good.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>If we have buss bar links that does not fit the bolt holes
> just
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>right, we
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>then drill them out a little larger and apply Tinning Butter
> and
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>apply a
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>little lead to that area, or use a re-plating kit that you can
> plate
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>this
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>link with any alloy you want.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>Is tinning butter just pure tin + flux?
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>You can get the plating solutions in the kit, or can purchase
> them
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>in large
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>bulk from the Fisher Laboratory Scientific Supply Companies.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I found that the contact area makes a good conduction path.
> After
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>we remove
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>them after years of surface, the surface was still highly
> polish to
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>a mirror
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>finish.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>So plating a polished surface is the best idea? I made my
> plates
> from
> > > >>polished copper for the old lead acid pack. Plating them would
> make
> > > >>them a good bet for the Nicads.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>You can can this Tinning Butter, Lead sticks, and even Cadmium
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>plating kits
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>from www.eastwoodcompany.com
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>I haven't looked those guys up in years. Thanks for the
> reminder.
> > > >>
> > > >>Mike
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
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