EV Digest 5844
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Is this doable?
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: GVWR
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: EV digest 5839
by "David A. Serafini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Soccer Mom Mobile
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: E-mail test to list
by "Ted C." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: EVs on TV in Australia. The Dateline footage, and WKTEC movie.
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re:Torque converters
by Mike Swift <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Standards
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) VW EV kit on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Re: High School EV Project need some guidance
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Permanent Interconnections needed
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: High School EV Project need some guidance
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Permanent Interconnections needed
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Better Timing
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Tin Plating lugs for Ni-Cads
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Tin Plating lugs for Ni-Cads
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by "Jerry Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: [uselectricar] Tiger paw tires
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Odd: Truck beats Prizm in range?
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Odd: Truck beats Prizm in range?
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Tin Plating lugs for Ni-Cads
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by "Mark Metcalf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) battery costs/pricing
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: High School EV Project need some guidance
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: driving an A/C compressor
by "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
--- Ben S <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
- 20-25 miles realistic range to get me to work and
back
- fast, sporty car that accelerates well and will
cruise up to 70 mph
on the highway
This is on the edge of what can be done with lead , I'm finnishing up a
hiynda with a impluse 9 and 1k 300v zilla 25 orbitals . I think it would do
25 miles at 60 , and would do an easy 70 .
And some details on the car and components I have in
mind (I won't say
what kind of car yet, but it's a 2-seater sports
car, and one that I
haven't seen converted before):
may be there's a reason , is there a reason your not telling the type. ?
- car will weigh about 2500 lbs with everything but
me (200 lbs) and
the batteries (which I haven't decided on yet)
and how much of that is batteries .
- has a full frame with enough room and a beefy
suspension to carry
quite a few batteries
- drag coefficient is about 0.35, relatively low
frontal area, and I
hope to do some aero mods like a belly pan
- planning on a TransWarP 11" motor
- direct drive with a 4.56 (or so) ratio in the rear
end
I had one of these :-) you may have seen it on
http://www.grassrootsev.com/mits.htm
I ended up leaving it in 4 th gear with a 3.8 rear , . I would go more this
way , a 4.56 is going to be less top end, If the motor is spinning fast you
won't be able to push the amp through it becuse of the BEMF , so you won't
have the power up hi ,
- Zilla 2K controller (for series-parallel switching
and w/ reversing
contactors)
No series paralle switching with one motor .
I'd like to keep the battery weight to about 600-800
lbs.
well if the car weighs 2500 with batteries and you have 800 in batteries ,
then your distance could be more that just 25 miles .
- What batteries would you recommend to power the
Zilla and 11" motor,
I don't think the motor or controller care ,
and would this combo give me good acceleration with
a car this heavy?
2500 is heavy ?
- Will I be able to drive up to 25 miles on a
600-800 lb battery pack?
if the car weights 2500, yep
- Is this a realistic conversion, or should I scrap
this idea and look
for a lighter car instead?
Lighter , I'm wondering what this car is ./
mind, but if it's unrealistic, so be it. I read
about Jeff Shanab
being disappointed in the performance of his 300ZX
recently and it has
me worried that maybe this car is too heavy to meet
my expectations.
Was Jeff disappointed ? I though that was me , I did a 300zx and stuffed 26
golf cart batteries in it , now that was a heavy car. I'd like to ride in
Jeff's and see the difference , he used 12v orbitals and I'm sure was a lot
lighter that mine. He's also running a higher voltage controller which
should give more power. Mine I set at 500 battery amps . One thing about the
300zx is that it feels very good on the road , it handles the weight well .
But when I talk about it I'm comparing it to the other cars I've done .
Steve Clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dmitri Hurik wrote:
> I'm not so sure about this GVWR thing, as most conversions
> are going over it. Kinda worried of safety/long term reliability.
>
> What do you think are the top most aerodynamic cars to use
> for conversion that can also hold the most weight for
> batteries without stressing the frame?
>
> What are the weakest points, besides suspension and brakes?
> How much can you go over GVWR?
If you are even "kinda" worried about safety, then you can't go over the
GVWR at *all*.
No, the vehicle won't suddenly collapse if you do, but if you get in an
accident, your insurance company will deny you coverage entirely if they
discover you were operating a vehicle that was overloaded. At least
that is the situation here.
Your vehicle will also fail a mechanical/safety inspection if it is
overloaded, but perhaps such inspections are not required where you are.
With some vehicles it is possible to upgrade the brakes and/or
suspension, etc. with parts from a different model or trim level of the
same vehicle that had a higher GVWR from the factory (e.g. this is
sometimes the case with pickups), however, at the end of the day, you
don't know what else the manufacturer changed to allow the higher rating
(is the airbag system different, or programmed differently? Was there
some subtle difference in the frame, etc.?)
I've seen conversions that didn't even have the batteries securely
restrained; just because people cut corners doesn't make it a sensible
thing to do ;^>
Choose a vehicle with a GVWR high enough that you can carry the pack you
need as well as the passengers/payload you want.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 1:07 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: EV digest 5839
EV Digest 5839
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) POCKET BIKE ROLLING FRAME FOR SALE - $60
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: E-mail test to list
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Judging contactor condition?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Standards
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Standards
by Chris Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Judging contactor condition?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Standards
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Standards
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Gear Ratios
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Robison wrote:
Folks,
I'd like to drive an air conditioning compressor with an electric motor
(separate from the traction motor).
First, has anyone modified a stock automotive compressor for direct drive
from an electric motor? What was necessary? Is the bit about the pulley
and bearing true?
We mounted a treadmill motor via a pulley. We had heard the same thing
about the bearing, so decided not to risk it.
Where would I find a pulley of the
size and type that I need?
Our compressor needed only a 1/2" v-belt.
My 1.5HP motor over-revved, turning the brushes glowing orange in
seconds. I'm not sure why; it appears to be a 120V permanent magnet
motor. Anyone willing to say if this ebay motor would work instead from
144V of Optimas?
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Treadmill-Motor-permanent-magnet-external-fan-2HP_W0QQitemZ130024509305QQihZ003QQcategoryZ26226QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks,
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the mention, Matt!
I'm sorry to say, I wouldn't recommend a Honda Civic Wagon / Wagovan as
a conversion vehicle unless you really like them for other reasons, as I
do.
My main objection is that parts are not as available as standard Civic
parts, particularly for the rear suspension and body. Additionally, I
just can't see that big blocky rear as aerodynamic, no matter how hard I
try.
On the plus side, they aren't heavy pigs (the gas version gets good
mileage), and I fit 8 batteries under the back seat and 4 under the
hood, keeping all the seating at close to the original weight.
I'd look into the Ford Wagon instead. I considered it when choosing my
conversion car, and even my 6'2" frame fits easily in the front seat.
It also looks more aerodynamic. I'd check on parts availability, though.
I also looked into the Subaru WRX wagon, but its GVWR just didn't leave
enough room for an EV conversion.
Jude
Matt Kenigson wrote:
Oops. I meant judebert.com -- specifically check out his conversion
diary:
http://judebert.com/wasted_youth/categories/40-EV-Conversion-Diary
On 9/6/06, Matt Kenigson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Go check out judester.com
On 9/6/06, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > wrote:
>
> As I remember these Civic wagons had a tall roof. They were made
around
> 85
> to 01. They should be light and easy on the amps. I got a range
of 950
> to
> 5k. One was 4wd. They only seat 5 people as far as I know. Lawrence
> Rhodes.....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have had the same thing happen. But once I got an e-mail from my service
provider that may shed some light on the issue. Once I had sent a post that
didn't show. After a couple of days I got an e-mail from my service provide
stating that it was trying to deliver the e-mail but was unable to get
though due to the recipients e-mail server was to busy. But it would keep
trying. It seems to me the posting did make it a day after that e-mail.
Ted
Olympia, WA
N47 02.743 W122 53.772
----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE WILLMON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: E-mail test to list
Thats funny because I sent a post last night 5 times. I then sent this
test e-mail and it went through. Now I've subsequently sent my previous
post 2 more times, one from outlook and once from my web mail portal at my
provider. It must not like what I have to say in the post. I hope people
are not getting it and I'm just not seeing it on the list.
I'll keep trying though.
Thanks
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thursday, September 7, 2006 8:58 am
Subject: Re: E-mail test to list
To: [email protected]
On 7 Sep 2006 at 1:59, MIKE WILLMON wrote:
> e-mail test to the list. My posts seem to be on hold :-(
Nope, got it.
Every now and then the server gets in a snit and decides to hold a
post or
two for ransom. Nobody seems to know why it does this, and it
usually
releases them after a few hours (or when the person posts
something else).
Perhaps someone needs to go to the console and type in "fortune"
to pay the
ransom. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter, Congratulations on what you and the rest of TEAA did to promote
electric vehicles. It sounds like a very successful event. We need more of
these all over this planet to get the word out. EVs are NOT dead!
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: EVs on TV in Australia. The Dateline footage, and WKTEC movie.
Hello Tim,
We finished up a very successful "Electric and Alternative Fuel Expo" in
Cary NC, USA two weeks ago. We (Don ("DC") Crohan, [EMAIL PROTECTED]) talked
with the theater manager and convinced him that we would put on an Expo
for him if he would show the film "Who Killed the Electric Car?" on the
same day. We were able to rally the EVers and Alternative Fuel advocates
in the area. We had 11 EV's and one Bio-diesel vehicle there and several
booths. The theater manager agreed to let us to block off an area in
front of the theater so there was no "through traffic" and people could
leisurely walk and talk with the drivers. Two of the 11 vehicles were
towed there. One was an exhibit car for the EV Challenge. The rest were
driven there by their owners. We had a Sparrow show that was at it max
range. The theater provided a socket and extension cord. I really
thought it was neat that the Sparrow owner was able to recharge there.
(Who needs a hydrogen infrastructure?) The fellow was able to recharge
and had enough juice to return home after the show.
We were able to fly in the director of the movie, Chris Paine. After the
show, Chris and several of us "experts" stood up in front of the almost
SRO audience and answered their questions. We all had a good time. The
theater manager was elated with what we had accomplished and we heard
nothing but positive comments form the public. I think the main thing was
that the public could talk to real people driving EVs on a daily basis.
Can you rally the EVers in Sydney?
Tim or if any of you on the EVDL would like to know the details, please
contact myself or DC off list. We can provide you with some materials and
advice. DC was the one who honcho'ed this and he and his students did a
really great job. I'm also proud of our members who showed up in numbers.
Peter Eckhoff, President
TEAA
Tim Ireland wrote:
For all those listers here in Australia, the feature filmed by
'Dateline' that John Wayland has mentioned and should include some White
Zombie action is due to air on next Wednesdays edition. It is running
under the title of "Who killed the Electric Car"
advertised on the SBS Dateline website as "coming soon" without a date,
so I rang today and was told it is scheduled for Wednesday 13 September
2006, 8:30pm... then repeats on the following Thursday and Monday at
1:00pm.
I am organising a friend to record it as I will be on a plane between
Sydney and Adelaide.
The movie "Who killed the Electric Car" was originally scheduled for
release by the main cinema chain here in Aus (Greater Union) in mid
August but, as reported previously on this list, they changed their mind
and did not pick it up. However, the great news is it's now scheduled for
release on 2 November
through the Village Cinema chain... Well, it's great news if you live in
Victoria, Tasmania or New South Wales! Unfortunately for me, I am in
South Australia... and Village Cinemas are
not, so I am waiting for a call back from Sony Pictures Australia to
find out who is bringing it to the rest of Australia.
Tim Ireland
Adelaide, South Oz
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In general torque converters are horrible for electric vehicles.
They are the primary reason automatics in ICE vehicles have poorer
gas milage than manual transmissions. In their torque coupling range
they are about 95% efficient without lockup. Locked up they are
almost 100% however they are doing nothing but adding weight when
locked up. In their torque multiplying range they can multiply
torque by a factor of about 2.5 to one, to keep your motor running in
its sweet spot, however this comes with the penalty of losses of
about 25-30%. For this reason most new automatic transmissions have
from five to six gears, and lock up the torque converter as soon as
possible.
On Sep 7, 2006, at 1:02 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: Ralph <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: September 7, 2006 11:41:00 AM PDT
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios- torque converters
I noticed that to keep the batty currents down, it is important to
use the right gear and acceleration.
Has anyone tried getting rid of the transmission entirely and
replacing it with a special 'low-stall' lock-up torque converter?
Seems to me that a properly designed torque converter would be
nearly the same efficiency as a manual transmission, but always
putting the motor in an ideal range for best battery current.
Thoughts?
-Ralph
Mike Swift
Two things only the people anxiously desire—bread and circuses.
Decimus Junius Juvenalls
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Brown is with Electro Automotive:
www.electroauto.com
Note that eleKtro auto was acquired by a whole different company
and therefore it is for sale...
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Art Corbit
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Standards
You're welcome Doc. You just can't get too much of good information on
something like this. There is so much junk floating around out there on EV's
it is really hard to sift out the good information from the bad. If you
should decide to try to put together some kind of instruction manual I would
be more than happy to help you any way I could. I don't know a lot about
EV's but I am a pro at finding the cheapest way to build what you want where
it will stand up there with the best of them. I'm sure there are others on
here that would help also. If you have a link to Mike Brown's web site
please post it.
Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doc Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Standards
> Yo Art,
>
> The aforementioned Mike Brown of Electro
> Automotive is into steam too! Check him out.
> Thanks for the support on the subject of the
> EV Manual, mabe the thread won't die.
>
> Doc
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like Kurt Bohan still has plenty of old Kaylor adapters left! He's been
doing this much longer than Wilderness EV (but you'll probably get better
support).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230026930097 has
a link to his home site ("sight" as he calls it) with his reasons for sticking
with this very basic form of EV technology. It lists his motor as a "dynamotor"
because it can also be a generator (*any* motor can do this, just with varying
degrees of difficulty). They are shunt motors (I thought starter/generators
were compound - can anyone tell by looking?); a $1700 starting bid gets you one
these with a fan (and "anti-arch diode"), tranny adapter for an air-cooled VW,
contactors for main and series/parallel control, 72V charger, 2 meters, and the
other stuff you'd need to get the thing together. All you have to add is
batteries and wire...however, other than the adapter, you can find similar
items elsewhere. Besides links I already had, found these in 5 min:
$160 for a 72V charger -
http://www.batteryservice.com/products_final.aspx?ModelNumber=SE-1072
$180 for a starter/generator -
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006090705124833&item=6-936
$20-22 for meters -
http://www.candhsales.biz/cgi-bin/shop991/shop.pl/SID=1529119474/page=TMET.htm
A "bleeding edge sepex controller" -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120028657381
(or suped-up series ones at
http://www.logisystemscontrollers.com/logisystems_002.htm - no price listing
beyond the 48V model for $300)
But, hey, if you don't like to shop around, not bad for a starter kit.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> My name is Andrew Kloppel and I am the Project Manager for my high
school's
> engineering class, in which we are converting a 5 speed manual
transmission
> 1988 Toyota Corolla station wagon to electric.
Aw, man, that is a *great* candidate - solid construction and plenty
of room for the batteries.
> Specifically our concerns include the following areas:
> 1) Considering our personal goals for the car, would 6V or 12V
batteries be
> better for us, and what type (lead-acid, lithium ion, etc.), and
also any
> certain manufacturers? Why?
> 2) Also would the 8" or 9" motor be better for us? Why?
> 3) What would you recommend as far as power for accessories (stereo,
> headlights)? We have heard of having separate batteries for
accessories, are
> there any advantages/disadvantages to this setup? Why?
1) You've only got $5K - stick with lead. 20 golfcart 6Vs is 1250lb,
which the car may handle fine, but check the GVWR on the door jam! If
you can't support that much and choose SLAs, get the electronics geeks
to make some regulators for you!
2) No comment - leave that to the gurus.
3) You need a dc-dc converter, a big one with a small 12V for backup,
or a small one to keep a big 12V charged up. Make sure it has a
blasting stereo - ease of MP3 downloading is nice...
Then, to get good range, close up the front grill, cover over the
underside, and do some aerodynamics detective work for drag.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The main battery box in my Geo is a 2 level design with access only from the
top. Three group 30 AGMs are on their sides in the lower level, and 5 more
batts are above them (also on their sides) in the upper level. The lower level
batts can't be accessed without removing the upper level batts. The batts all
have large flag terminals with 5/16" or 3/8" holes. The interconnects are
undersized and just what was on hand. Now it is time to install properly sized
ones.
Anyway, 4 months, 70+ charge/discharge cycles, and 900 miles have passed
without incident. But I'm guessing the lug to terminal connections have
loosened up a bit on the lower level.
I don't want to have to remove all those batts every few months just to check
and maybe tighten connections.
Given the flag terminals on the current batts, how can interconnects be
permanently attached to at least the 3 batts on the lower level?
What terminal type would work best for permanent connections if new batts
were installed?
Mark Freidberg
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Andrew,
Here's a Toyota Tercel Wagon on EVAlbum http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/555
While the Tercel is probably a lighter vehicle it probably wouldn't hold enough
battery weight. What is the curb weight and GVWR
of your vehicle? Estimate the weight of the Engine, Transmission, Exhaust and
Radiator and subtract that total from the curb
weight then add ~200 lb for motor, controller and periphials. The difference
between this number and the GVWR is the maximum
battery weight you can carry. Your battery weight should be decreased by the
amount of payload and passengers you intend to
carry. Once you have this number look at how many and what size flooded or
sealed lead acid batteries the car can carry, and if
you have the room to fit them. To get anywhere near the range you want the car
will be heavy so I would go with the 9" motor for
more startup torque. You can see Steve Clunn built a regular Tercel with 50
mile range at 45 mph.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/653 You could improve on a the range a bit with
the extra room in the wagon and maybe get another
10 mile range.
Here's a couple Escort wagons http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/715 and
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/715 both are running 9"
motors.
Another Escort weighs ~4000 lbs http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/186 sees only
40 mile range.
Search all the listings at EVAlbum and you can compare similar weights to what
you expect your vehicle to weigh, make not of the
motors, controllers and betteries everyone uses. You may even look at some
small pickups. Several may come in at about a similar
weight as your Corolla. My truck weighs in at 4000 lbs and I'm using a 9"
motor, 1000A controller and 16 group-31 12V AGM lead
acid batteries. http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
>Andrew Kloppel wrote
><snip>
> Specifically our concerns include the following areas:
> 1) Considering our personal goals for the car, would 6V or 12V batteries be
> better for us, and what type (lead-acid, lithium ion, etc.), and also any
> certain manufacturers? Why?
> 2) Also would the 8" or 9" motor be better for us? Why?
> 3) What would you recommend as far as power for accessories (stereo,
> headlights)? We have heard of having separate batteries for accessories, are
> there any advantages/disadvantages to this setup? Why?
>
> We would appreciate any information you could provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew Kloppel
> Project Manager
> Seabury Hall Engineering
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> My 1.5HP motor over-revved, turning the brushes glowing orange in
> seconds. I'm not sure why; it appears to be a 120V permanent magnet
> motor. Anyone willing to say if this ebay motor would work instead from
> 144V of Optimas?
>
I also have a treadmill motor I'd like to use for AC and power steering. My
issue is finding a
controller for it. Has anyone found a reasonable controller for a small motor?
I've seen very
small PWM controllers, but nothing appropriate for this sized motor. (And if I
put another Zilla
in my car, it's going to be part of the drivetrain.)
Thanks
Dave COver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You do not want the connections to loosen! That is one of the best way to melt
a terminal.
Is it possible to drill access holes in the battery box? Strategically located
holes would allow
you to slip a socket in to tighten occasionally. Cap the holes to keep the rain
out.
--- Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The main battery box in my Geo is a 2 level design with access only from the
> top. Three group 30
> AGMs are on their sides in the lower level, and 5 more batts are above them
> (also on their
> sides) in the upper level. The lower level batts can't be accessed without
> removing the upper
> level batts. The batts all have large flag terminals with 5/16" or 3/8"
> holes. The interconnects
> are undersized and just what was on hand. Now it is time to install properly
> sized ones.
>
> Anyway, 4 months, 70+ charge/discharge cycles, and 900 miles have passed
> without incident. But
> I'm guessing the lug to terminal connections have loosened up a bit on the
> lower level.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I advanced my timing 7 degrees and the Cushman has better speed holding
capability on hills and the commutator doesn't spark enymore. I'm still using
333 Wh per mile for my 2k lb 72 vehicle so the efficiency didn't improve or at
least not that measurable. The copper impregnated brushes reduced the comm
temperature from 220F to 200F after my 1 hour & 15 minute run. I'm building
another DC converter (using my base VP-12124 available from GrayBar Electric) &
charger tonight for another EV.
BTW, I think Lynn Adams has me beat, he goes 80 miles a day & I only go 60
miles a day or 300 miles per week. A guy pulled beside me today with the
thumbs up (instead of the other finger) and I noticed he had one of those
yellow magnetic ribbons on his rear SUV that said "support my gas tank". Well,
at least he's honest.
Have a renewable energy day,
Mark
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I'm getting 14ea STM5-180's over the week-end and thought why can't you just
tin plate the lugs with the solder & a torch? Seams like a lot easier than
tinning chemically.
cheers,
Mark
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some solders have other compounds in it that may react to the battery acid
and/or vapors. Solders may contain Zinc Chloride, Zinc Oxide, and other
Zinc compounds plus flux, which will turn the solder very dark when it
reacts with electrolyte.
Some of these types of tinning solders can be use as a base to be cover with
pure lead.
I have use silver solder with a high content of silver which has a lower
temperature in the 300 F. range. Do not use a solder or silver solder with
built in flux. Used a liquid pure flux that is clear as water, not the
paste type.
This type of silver solder and flux is normally supplied by welding supply
companies. This silver solder may run $10.00 a foot.
You can solder stainless to stainless, lead to stainless, aluminum to other
metals and even copper to glass with this type of solder.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 6:30 AM
Subject: Tin Plating lugs for Ni-Cads
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting 14ea STM5-180's over the week-end and thought why can't you
> just tin plate the lugs with the solder & a torch? Seams like a lot
> easier than tinning chemically.
>
> cheers,
> Mark
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
> rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave, I have a small controller I got for a scooter shop ( on the internet)
in Columbis OH it is about the size of a pack of smokes an sold for $49 I'l
dig out the info if you want, it's on my scooter which I just got the
batteries for last nite, le tme know
Jerry NWO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: driving an A/C compressor
--- Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
My 1.5HP motor over-revved, turning the brushes glowing orange in
seconds. I'm not sure why; it appears to be a 120V permanent magnet
motor. Anyone willing to say if this ebay motor would work instead from
144V of Optimas?
I also have a treadmill motor I'd like to use for AC and power steering.
My issue is finding a
controller for it. Has anyone found a reasonable controller for a small
motor? I've seen very
small PWM controllers, but nothing appropriate for this sized motor. (And
if I put another Zilla
in my car, it's going to be part of the drivetrain.)
Thanks
Dave COver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cor van de Water wrote:
Invicta GL is a very low Rolling Resistance tire, according to the
list in the Prius_Technical_Stuff files.
I would expect it to be an even more "summer tire" than the
TigerPaw, but I have never seen the Invicta so do not take
my expectation as truth.
I have been aquaplaning trough an intersection last spring
when my wheels locked up on a wet street, this was with
the TigerPaws at 50 PSI, but that may have just been that,
an incident.
I should probably fix the ABS system then. One of my sensors is having a
problem, lighting the "ABS" light.
I removed four Invicta GL tires from the truck yesterday and they were
trashed. Total sin, but according to the inspection guy they were dry
rotted (no, they didn't sell me the new tires, they just do the
inspections). The new TP tires look fine, cost under $400 and it passed
inspection.
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Ok, this is somewhat weird. Yesterday I took the S10 (300v NiCd) out to
the Double T diner. Normally this is an 8-9ah drive in the Prizm (300v
Hawker Pb). However when I looked at the E-meter, it read 6ah down.
Why? Is the lower weight of the battery pack *THAT* big of a range
improver? The packs have the same base voltage, and I do hope that the
truck is less aerodynamic than a Prizm.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How many miles did you go and at what speed and conditions? Then I can
tell you how it compares to my truck.
BTW these heavy old nicads are 25% heavier than my nimh pack was, and
they were wrapped in sheet metal and hardware as well. Dang patents....
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is somewhat weird. Yesterday I took the S10 (300v NiCd) out to
> the Double T diner. Normally this is an 8-9ah drive in the Prizm (300v
> Hawker Pb). However when I looked at the E-meter, it read 6ah down.
>
> Why? Is the lower weight of the battery pack *THAT* big of a range
> improver? The packs have the same base voltage, and I do hope that the
> truck is less aerodynamic than a Prizm.
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark E. Hanson wrote:
Hi,
I'm getting 14ea STM5-180's over the week-end and thought why can't you just tin plate the lugs with the solder & a torch? Seams like a lot easier than tinning chemically.
Very cool. Are these those Ebay batteries?
I'm still imagining a S10 truck with 50 of those batteries. Mmmmm.......
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jude Anthony wrote:
Chris Robison wrote:
Folks,
I'd like to drive an air conditioning compressor with an electric motor
(separate from the traction motor). First, has anyone modified a
stock automotive compressor for direct drive
from an electric motor? What was necessary? Is the bit about the pulley
and bearing true?
We mounted a treadmill motor via a pulley. We had heard the same
thing about the bearing, so decided not to risk it.
Where would I find a pulley of the
size and type that I need?
Our compressor needed only a 1/2" v-belt.
My 1.5HP motor over-revved, turning the brushes glowing orange in
seconds. I'm not sure why; it appears to be a 120V permanent magnet
motor. Anyone willing to say if this ebay motor would work instead
from 144V of Optimas?
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Treadmill-Motor-permanent-magnet-external-fan-2HP_W0QQitemZ130024509305QQihZ003QQcategoryZ26226QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks,
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
Not Practical- An A/C Compressor takes as much as five horse power to
operate. If you do some figuring, I would guess you'll need a hefty
(heavy) motor to turn it. Lotsa heat, and it might fry the alternator
trying to keep the battery up (?).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
gah, battery prices are inSANE in arkansas
just called interstate batteries here, they said their 6v 115ah batteries
were $73 each
I think I'd rather order some and have them shipped from me
anyone got suggestions on a good place?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
you have the room to fit them. To get anywhere near the range you want
the car will be heavy so I would go with the 9" motor for
more startup torque. You can see Steve Clunn built a regular Tercel with
50 mile range at 45 mph.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/653 You could improve on a the range a bit
with the extra room in the wagon and maybe get another
I had a bit of trouble getting the 9 in there , but a 9 is what I had . some
of the motor is under the frame in the front and the A/C pump is hanging out
more than I would like , never got that part going , needed a new compressor
. The impulse 9 would fit better . I though this one would be better then
my 2nd EV the Mercury lynx that I talk about , Its light , I got 18 golfers
in there but some how that 20 6v Lynx was still the best for distance with
good pickup. Yes my Mazda with 40 golf cart batteries has better range but
its not the norm. , I'm letting Larry the base player in the group I play
music in drive it and has been for about a year, to all the lone EV'er who
are out there , it is SO NICE not being the only electric car driver . When
we play , and talk to people on the brakes , EV's come up and he dose most
of the talking ( you know how new electric car drivers are) but talks about
"us " and we , people react different , a lot different , It makes EV's look
a lot more real ,when they can see 2 in the parking lot.
Steve Clunn .
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I found the Power steering in the 300zx took a lot more power when turning
the wheel then I though, I played around with a few motors but ended up
putting it on the front of the 9" net gain motor . I geared it with as much
ratio as I could with 2 pulleys but not even close , and I was using a
bigger motor that the tread mill motor ( which I have a nice collection of
thanks to people throwing these thing out ) . One thing I noticed was that
the power steering pump didn't need to turn fast to work , maybe with a 10
or 20 to 1 gear ratio. running it off the tail shaft of the 9 was the " easy
button" for me.
Steve clunn
I also have a treadmill motor I'd like to use for AC and power steering.
My issue is finding a
controller for it. Has anyone found a reasonable controller for a small
motor? I've seen very
small PWM controllers, but nothing appropriate for this sized motor. (And
if I put another Zilla
in my car, it's going to be part of the drivetrain.)
Thanks
Dave COver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for this tip, Bill. I'd actually looked at their site before, but
noticed they don't seem to deal in ribbed flat belt parts. However, I'll
give them a call. Fortunately they do have a location here in Austin,
which I wouldn't have noticed without your advice.
--chris
On Thu, September 7, 2006 4:18 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> You might try http://smp.applied.com/ (applied industrial tech) Look for a
> local store using their locate service centers link on their main page.
> They
> will probably be able to get you exactly what you need. The have been very
> helpful to me, especially when you go into the store with a unique
> problem.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Art Corbit" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:38 AM
> Subject: Re: driving an A/C compressor
>
>
>> Chris,
>>
>> I suggest you try to trade your compressor with someone for one that
>> uses
>> a
>> 1/2" V belt. There are still some of them around that you can modify to
>> work
>> with your lines.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 9:51 AM
>> Subject: driving an A/C compressor
>>
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I'd like to drive an air conditioning compressor with an electric motor
>>> (separate from the traction motor). As much as I'd prefer to drive the
>>> compressor directly, I am guessing I'll end up driving it with a belt
>>> because A) I got a good deal on a 2HP motor but it will need some
>>> reduction to be useful, and B) I've been told that the pulley on the
>>> compressor is engaged to the bearing on that end, and so operating
>>> without
>>> the pulley might cause shaft seal leakage. Two questions:
>>>
>>> First, has anyone modified a stock automotive compressor for direct
>>> drive
>>> from an electric motor? What was necessary? Is the bit about the pulley
>>> and bearing true?
>>>
>>> Second, if I'm to drive this thing with a belt on the existing
>>> compressor
>>> pulley, I'll need a 2.5" - 3" diameter 6-groove K-section pulley for
>>> an
>>> automotive ribbed flat belt. Preferably one that takes an SK style
>>> bushing. I've searched and searched (and searched!) and I've had no
>>> luck
>>> in finding anyone online selling K-section pulleys in a decent
>>> selection
>>> of sizes. McMaster's only ribbed flat belt pulleys are J-section (too
>>> small) and the K-section pulleys sold on Lister generator sites are far
>>> too large in diameter, and too heavy. Where would I find a pulley of
>>> the
>>> size and type that I need?
>>>
>>> If I could afford it, I'd be tempted to go buy myself a lathe... :o)
>>>
>>> --chris
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
