EV Digest 5856
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Freeway Flyer
by Ron Archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Reverse scheme (was: Reverse and NHRA/Nedra
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Reverse and NHRA/Nedra
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Generator Trailer
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Reverse scheme
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV Cal was Freedom Flyer
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Need relay for E-12 M
by "Jerry Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Spoofed emails
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Reply Editing?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: EV Cal was Freedom Flyer
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Spoofed emails
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Elektro Transporter on eBay, Forgetaboutit!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: Need relay for E-12 M
by James Jarrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Elektro Transporter on eBay, Forgetaboutit!
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Anyone using a Siemens 1PV5135WS14?
by "Joe Plumer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: battery costs/pricing
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: NHRA Electric Dragster record holder, CE-V and Dennis "Killowatt"
Berube
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: EV Cal was Freedom Flyer
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Anyone using a Siemens 1PV5135WS14?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) PFC20 acting strange
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Battery costs/pricing
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) Harley Davidson Golfcart. $500.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) Re: Tango in Hammacher Schlemmer catalog
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, that makes sense and was probably obvious to everyone (except me).
I guess it's back to the drawing board. Is their an example of an ev
(lead batteries) that is capable of 30 miles @ 50-65mph and 0-60mph in
7-10 seconds?
Ron Archer
Lee Hart wrote:
Ron Archer wrote:
If my design goal is 50 miles at 50 mph, it seems final drive ratio
and continuous motor rpm is important.
Yes, but not the way you think. The vehicle requires a particular
mechanical horsepower to go any given speed. The transmission and final
gear ratio do not change the power required (except by a trivial amount
due to their efficiency).
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Perhaps you could use a souped-up low voltage Curtis controller to
supply the high current needed for the Fly-Back" reverse. The current
multiplication from the Curtis would greatly reduce the current
requirement from the reversing battery. Might make the whole
reversing system more lightweight. You'd still need a contactor to
connect it up, however.
Just a thought...
Bill Dube'
At 04:34 PM 9/10/2006, you wrote:
Hello to All,
As one who recently went through a huge redesign of the under-hood
wiring (both high voltage-hight current circuits as well as low
voltage control and safety circuits) to comply with NHRA rules,
NEDRA rules, and to make the car much easier to use on a daily
basis, I agree with Bill that Dennis' reverse system qualifies...if
it backs up, you qualify.
I 'will' say, that after trying the Berube' method of cleverly using
the flyback diodes inside the Zilla controller and a 12V battery
where the series-wound motor is turned into a crude shunt wound
motor that does indeed, spin the other direction at low voltage-high
current, that for my car's weight and the uphill driveway I have to
back up and out of, it didn't work very well. Again, in my car's
instance using just the front motor section, when the contactor
closed and 550+ amps flowed from the 13.5 lb. Hawker, the 4 gauge
wires began to smoke from the heat of all that current in no time as
the car barely moved itself. I tried 1/0 cables and though they
didn't smoke, the little 12V battery sagged terribly at 700+
amps...arggh...and the car still barely crawled backwards. The added
extra 30 lbs. combined weight of the battery and mounting bracket,
the heavy and longer-than-I-wanted runs of cables, and the contactor
plus unacceptable (for me) super s-l-o-w and non-variable reverse
performance sent me looking into other methods of reversing my car.
For those who may have missed it, I covered in detail how we ended
up putting reverse in the car in my 8-28-06 post 'Reversing White
Zombie'. The total weight of the added contactors and the very short
bus bars and cable runs was about 6 lbs., the track performance was
unaffected (backed up with time slip ETs), and man oh man, is
reverse through the controller smooth! I used it many times today as
I was cleaning and detailing the car, charging and equalizing the
batteries, and rewiring under the hood (tidying up things I haven't
been happy with).
Dennis, I'd say the way you effectively reverse your rail qualifies.
Your rail's at least 600 lbs. lighter weight than my car's weight,
and its large diameter single motor (vs half of my dual armature
motor) are probably the reasons your reverse method works well for you.
To mirror Bill's comments...I am not a NEDRA official and all
opinions are my own. Take this also as just as a comment from a
fellow list member and fellow drag racer 'really racing the ICEs at
their own game of heads up style racing and making friends', not
anything official whatsoever.
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
If your car can reliably move itself back to the starting
line, then you fully meet the NHRA requirement....one would
think, meeting the NHRA requirement, both in the letter of the
law and the intent of the law, should also meet the NEDRA requirement.
Bill Dube'
Thanks fellow lister and racer for confirming that the CE does
indeed have a reverse that meets the National
requirements. Dennis Berube
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On Sun, Sep 10, 2006 at 07:33:15AM -0700, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> At 10:56 PM 9/9/2006, Michael Perry wrote:
<..snip..>
> >Of all the EV ideas, the auxiliary generator is the lamest.
<..snip..>
> So, you are of the opinion that having a 2nd car, (with taxes,
> insurance, registration, and parking costs) is a better idea than
> having a clean, efficient generator that can also be used to power
> your house during a power failure?
One of the main arguments aginst this solution is that most generators
are not "clean and efficient".
I think if you really had a generator that was ULE, or SULE then most
of the arguments aginast would be resolved. This is apperntly quite
a task, do you have an example generator that is clean? Or are you
thinking of using a doner ICE from a clean car?
> Of course, if you only use it 4 or 5 times a year, your gas car is
> also going to have more maintenance problems that usual for a car.
I would think this would be true for a generator as well, right?
> Each to his own I guess.
Amen to that brother! :)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to Bill and All,
Bill Dube wrote:
Perhaps you could use a souped-up low voltage Curtis controller to
supply the high current needed for the Fly-Back" reverse. The current
multiplication from the Curtis would greatly reduce the current
requirement from the reversing battery. Might make the whole reversing
system more lightweight. You'd still need a contactor to connect it
up, however.
Bill, connected directly to a 12V battery and with that battery sagging
down to around 8 volts, the reverse speed was something on the order of
6 rpm of the rear tire not under load...even s-l-o-w-e-r with the weight
of the car on the ground. Using a low voltage Curtis, such as one of the
four or five I have lying around here would have limited the output
current to either 275 amps or 400 amps. Even at the higher 400 amp level
with the battery at say 9 volts with 300 amps pulled from it and the
controller output at 6 volts and 400 amps, the car would have been
glacial in reverse, making the the performance problem even worse while
admittedly decreasing the stress on that single little 12V battery. Now,
if I had a magical 700 amp Curtis that could run at 360V input, that
would have worked great :-)
I'm very pleased with the setup I decided to go with. I have all the
flexibility and functions of the Hairball including full protection
against accidentally selecting an opposing direction under any kind of
travel speed, the reverse is silky smooth, and as a bonus I've got up to
2000 amps of power just in case I need to do a reverse burnout :-)
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What I have noticed is that it takes similar power to move any weight
vehicle if you compare low speeds on level ground.
I think a real test would be a comparison of how much energy it takes to
go 0 to 50 at normal accelerations 10 times in a row.
then we can see the effect of things like weight and motor timing on an EV.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim is it the top relay on the lower panel or rhe upper panel? if it the
upper panel it's the PTO relay an I have several, if it is the lower panel
it is 1A relay, a silver can you need to see Harold Z for on.
Jerry NW Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Need relay for E-12 M
Just had someone help me work on my Elec-traks and he told me that One
of my heavy duty contactors is bad.
Anyone know a good source for the cylindrical contactors like used on
the E-12. I'll pull the part and get the exact number, but for now it
is the top left one when looking into the elec-trak's service panel.
Thanks,
James
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--- Begin Message ---
That may not be a smart move, because:
- the spammer will expect many invalid entries, so he will
script all reasponses and use those that are accepted by Ebay,
your effort does not yield much result.
- if the mail sent to you uses a unique indication to whom it
was sent then the spammer knows this is an active email address.
(Sometimes just looking at the email will open a picture which
send a unique code back, that's why Hotmail does not display
pictures in email.)
Now you have become more valuable to him, he may even resell
lists of email addresses that are proven to be active, so
you just have invited much more spam into your inbox.
What I do if such an email makes it through the spam filter:
- see if I can add it to the Junk list, so it is flagged
(not only for me, but for everyone using the same database)
- report it to the organisation that is spoofed
(especially when I see a new or very deceptive spoof)
- try to find the upstream provider or hosting company from
the IP address where the message was sent from, though this
usually just means one of the thousands of hacked PCs is
disconnected or disinfected, if the organisation takes action.
Usually I just press <delete>
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mike Swift
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: OT: Spoofed emails
I will always respond to these attacks with a bogus name and
password. If enough people did this these attacks would disappear do
to it being too much work for the attacker to get valid account
information. This spam can work both ways. : )
On Sep 10, 2006, at 12:35 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
> From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: September 9, 2006 8:55:44 PM PDT
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Just got a fake "Second Chance" offer on item
> 230023221493
>
>
> A very pervasive scam is to send out emails that flawlessly spoof
> eBay's emails like "message from seller". Right now I get fake
> emails pretending to be comments sent through the eBay system from
> an angry buyer/seller almost daily. Like I say, the framing on it
> is flawless. It's a direct rip of what eBay's email notices look
> like.
>
> The scam is to trick you into clicking on their link to a fake eBay
> signin page (also flawless) so you'll give them your eBay username
> and password which they can use for fraudulent auction buy/sell
> activity.
>
> Actually it's difficult to tell them from real eBay traffic. If
> you put your cursor over the link at the bottom of the screen it'll
> show what it really links to, often a generic IP# or obviously
> incorrect URL (like one with a Czechoslovakian country code). Only
> safe thing to do if you see something you need to verify is type
> http://www.ebay.com in your browser manually, sign in, and check
> your real eBay messages through the Web interface.
>
> Danny
>
> Mark McCurdy wrote:
>
>> This is NOT a valid "second chance offer". It directs me to
>> contact the seller directly which is never done and it's not
>> listed under my "Not Won" items as a "Second Chance" offer either.
>> I've had these before, they say to go through the website to buy
>> it, not contact the seller directly, doubt this is even the
>> seller, probably someone trying to rip me off
>>
>> All EVers, BEWARE
>>
>>
Mike Swift
Two things only the people anxiously desire—bread and circuses.
Decimus Junius Juvenalls
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It's simple and it's in almost every NetIquette overview:
- Reply to an email
- include quotes that you respond to
- cut everything else!
If people want to know the history then they can read all
the original info in the emails that were sent before in
the thread.
No need to waste bandwidth with endless echos.
> Get your finger off the reply button!!! :-)
No, use the <delete> button to prune the reply before sending.
"New Email" is a lot more work and good chance you confuse
the thread and make searching backward impossible.
Cutting is easy, just do it.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
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Hello Jeff,
I just got done testing out my low speed of 20 mph on dead level smooth
streets for 2 miles with my new Pirelli tires at 70 PSI @ 2320 lbs load
rating that has only 5% deflection rate with a total EV weight of 7100 lbs.
I lower my motor amps by about 45-50 amps from 150 amps in 1st and 2nd gear.
The motor amps in 3rd gear is 190 amps
1st gear ratio of 19.495:1 is 38 battery amps
2nd gear ratio of 13.925:1 is 40 battery amps
3rd gear ratio of 5.570:1 is 44 battery amps
I can accelerated up to 30 mph in about 10 seconds using 1st and 2nd gear at
300 motor amps and 78 battery amps on dead level.
Accelerating up a hill that raises about 100 feet in 1000 feet and holding
the motor ampere to 300 amps, the battery amps is 115 amps.
How does this compare with other EV's?
I will have to wait until I get my 11 inch motor in before I do the 0 to 50
mph.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: EV Cal was Freedom Flyer
> What I have noticed is that it takes similar power to move any weight
> vehicle if you compare low speeds on level ground.
>
> I think a real test would be a comparison of how much energy it takes to
> go 0 to 50 at normal accelerations 10 times in a row.
> then we can see the effect of things like weight and motor timing on an
> EV.
>
>
>
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> What I do if such an email makes it through the spam filter:
> - see if I can add it to the Junk list, so it is flagged
> (not only for me, but for everyone using the same database)
> - report it to the organisation that is spoofed
> (especially when I see a new or very deceptive spoof)
> - try to find the upstream provider or hosting company from
> the IP address where the message was sent from, though this
> usually just means one of the thousands of hacked PCs is
> disconnected or disinfected, if the organisation takes action.
>
I don't like to just filter out the spam and then just delete it -
submitting these through spamcop.net gets notices sent to any open
relays, mail hosts, *and* links within the body of the text. The last
spoof I got had a report sent to its Netherlands domain. It's worth
the $30 a year from my email account, which gives access to their
thorough reporting services.
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Supposedly there is a market for motor-less EVs with dead controllers (rust
notwithstanding). Here's the response I got from the seller of this:
<<<Hi, there were only 70 or so EV VW Kombi, Transporter, and SC
Pickups ever made by Volkswagen of Germany and Siemens.
Only 5 Kombis and 5 Transporters were brought to the United
States. This vehicle is 27 years old and has 14,223 original
miles. If a person finds rare VW's or rare EV's collectable than
the vehicle may be considered collectable by them. Some people
may not consider it a collectable at all, just an old VW. Thanks
for your interest.>>>
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--- Begin Message ---
It's the "silver can" type in the lower panel. As soon as I remove it
and get the actual "number" off of it I guess I'll get in touch with
Harold unless anyone else has one.
James
On Sun, 2006-09-10 at 19:11 -0400, Jerry Rhodes wrote:
> Jim is it the top relay on the lower panel or rhe upper panel? if it the
> upper panel it's the PTO relay an I have several, if it is the lower panel
> it is 1A relay, a silver can you need to see Harold Z for on.
>
> Jerry NW Ohio
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:30 PM
> Subject: Need relay for E-12 M
>
>
> > Just had someone help me work on my Elec-traks and he told me that One
> > of my heavy duty contactors is bad.
> >
> > Anyone know a good source for the cylindrical contactors like used on
> > the E-12. I'll pull the part and get the exact number, but for now it
> > is the top left one when looking into the elec-trak's service panel.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > James
> >
> >
>
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--- Begin Message ---
> Supposedly there is a market for motor-less EVs with dead
controllers (rust
> notwithstanding). Here's the response I got from the seller of this:
>
> <<<Hi, there were only 70 or so EV VW Kombi, Transporter, and SC
> Pickups ever made by Volkswagen of Germany and Siemens.
> Only 5 Kombis and 5 Transporters were brought to the United
> States. This vehicle is 27 years old and has 14,223 original
> miles. If a person finds rare VW's or rare EV's collectable than
> the vehicle may be considered collectable by them. Some people
> may not consider it a collectable at all, just an old VW. Thanks
> for your interest.>>>
>
Just saw he found the motor (lost it somewhere), but also noted he
says a number of part replacements can be found at electroauto.com,
including the controller for the shunt-wound motor. Free advertising
for Shari and Mike or bad PR?
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I am looking to do an conversion and am thinking about the Siemens
1PV5135WS14.
If anyone is using this motor, could you please PM me as I have a few
questions that
I don't want to bother the rest of the list with.
Thanks.
_________________________________________________________________
Search from any web page with powerful protection. Get the FREE Windows Live
Toolbar Today! http://get.live.com/toolbar/overview
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Peter,
What this email below has to do with its subject? :-)
Please maintain good example for newbies...
Victor
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
HTML messages are three to four times as large as plain text. Most send
the same messge twice (in plain text and encoded in the HTML) and then the
HTML tags themselves often use more space than the message.
Then there is the issue of viruses and malware which can also be included
in the HTML.
...
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* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
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This is not true for fixed-speed travel on level ground. A particular
vehicle travelling at a particular speed does NOT use power in
proportion to weight. Energy required to cruise is all about drag
coefficient. More weight does increase rolling resistance of tires and
bearings but that type of resistance only accounts for a fraction of the
power used. Your equation specifies constant speed and thus the
assertion of power in proportion to weight is completely incorrect.
Not that mass is not important. The energy needed to accelerate a
vehicle from 0 to 50 mph is directly proportional to mass. In this case
the vehicle which weighs twice as much needs twice as many watt-hrs to
perform this operation. This is quite important since much EV travel is
start-stop traffic and a lighter vehicle and/or lighter batteries will
get you further. Now if you've got regen, the vehicle which weighs
twice as much can potentially recharge twice the energy back into
batteries. Most of these amateur EVs don't have regen though.
Also the extra energy required to climb a 300 ft hill will be
proportional to weight, and again regen potential is also proportional
to weight.
Danny
Roland Wiench wrote:
I am just using watts per weight to show the energy used between different
weight EV's.
If a 2800 lb EV uses 16800 watts of energy to drive a certain speed for a
certain length of time as compare to another that:
weighs 7100 lbs that uses 42000 watts of energy to drive the same speed for
the same time with the same ratio.
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Please contact me as well about the Siemens 1PV5135WS14.
Thank you
Don Blazer
In a message dated 9/10/2006 5:28:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I am looking to do an conversion and am thinking about the Siemens
1PV5135WS14.
If anyone is using this motor, could you please PM me as I have a few
questions that
I don't want to bother the rest of the list with.
Thanks.
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--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone heard of this happening before
I get home end turn on the charger and it is putting 4 amps into the pack
(I know it is a pfc20, but it is plugged into 120V and I have a 288V
pack and only a 15A breaker)
Anyhow, I go back out 6 hours later and there has been no progress. I
wake up the emeter and it reads 0.0 amps
I just touch the current control knob and I'm putting 4 amps into the
pack again. This has happened twice, and is new in this last week
coincidentally after adding the dc-dc.
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All,
Without looking at my notes, I think Mason told me in 2003 that they
weren't selling directly anymore because it undercuts their dealers! I also
remember shipping being around $350, so unless you're sharing an order...
BB
>Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2006 10:33:11 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Patrick Maston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>OK, I found my old contact info for U.S. Battery. I paid $43.55 ea for 20
>US-2200s (which I think are a close match to the Trojan 115s) plus $143.33
>shipping from their plant in California to Las Vegas where I used to live
>in 2004. It would probably cost a lot more for shipping to Arkansas, but
>I think US Battery has several plants throughout the states, so you might
>be able to get them shipped from a closer plant for a reasonable fee.
>
> Contact person is:
>
> David Mason
> U.S. Battery Manufacturing Co.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (909) 371-8090
> (909) 371-4671 FAX
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The First major warning is the brushes are totally flat, no radiusing at
all. You need to Arc in the brushes and then seat them.
As I recall there is NO timing at all they are nuetral.
So they could use 5 to 10 Deg of advance.
Madman
I have atleast 1 around here.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Condie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
> Rumor has it that a certain John Wayland bought the surplus inventory of
6.7" 72 volt ADC motors from the Zebra/Tropica bankruptcy sale. I'm trying
to find out what I can about these motors (having two of them now) which are
said to be a "special order" ADC model XP-1150. So if John (or anyone else)
knows - are the brushes advanced or set at neutral on these babies? Is
there anything else about them that I'll need to know if I run them at
higher voltages? (Of **course** I want to over-volt them!) I'd rather not
have to take them out of the chassis if I don't have to, but if the brushes
aren't advanced I'm going to consider it while the rest of the project is
moving forward.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/205581564.html I had a simular Lehar
cart and switched to 48v with good success. Added lights, turn signals &
horn. Registered it as a moped. Switched to 6 8v batteries. Goes fast.
Lawrence Rhodes.....
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Sorry. Had the plain text switch off.
Wouldn't these be set t zero as the Tropica as electric reverse? I've
got one that's easy to look at if someone will tell me what to look for.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
The First major warning is the brushes are totally flat, no radiusing at
all. You need to Arc in the brushes and then seat them.
As I recall there is NO timing at all they are nuetral.
So they could use 5 to 10 Deg of advance.
Madman
I have atleast 1 around here.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Condie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: John Wayland - Zebra motors brush advance?
Rumor has it that a certain John Wayland bought the surplus inventory
of
6.7" 72 volt ADC motors from the Zebra/Tropica bankruptcy sale. I'm
trying
to find out what I can about these motors (having two of them now)
which are
said to be a "special order" ADC model XP-1150. So if John (or anyone
else)
knows - are the brushes advanced or set at neutral on these babies? Is
there anything else about them that I'll need to know if I run them at
higher voltages? (Of **course** I want to over-volt them!) I'd
rather not
have to take them out of the chassis if I don't have to, but if the
brushes
aren't advanced I'm going to consider it while the rest of the project
is
moving forward.
---------------------------------
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Iso got burried with Liquid cooling and meters and the Mark3 Regs and the
Monster chargers, and the 123 pack and the Valence pack and the Escape
Hybrid... and the PiPrius, and...
Get the point??
I have had NO real inquiries on the Isos for about 8 months. So......
I have not done much design on them.
They still are on the layout bench..but burried.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Tango in Hammacher Schlemmer catalog
> Rich, where is the isolated charger that I once heard about, the
> PFC40I(?), in your things-to-do list? I know L is sexy and
> what-not, but there are a lot of us out there wishing for
> isolated chargers.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Tango in Hammacher Schlemmer catalog
>
>
> > Yea I have the Catalog cover screwed to the wall behind my
> power bench...
> > It keeps me motivated while I test and tune the Killer water
> cooled chargers
> > that I make for them.
> >
> > The PFC40LM for liquid cooled with line current meter...
> > It lists for $2800. You are paying for both the power and the
> pain in the
> > neck small package.
> > The PFC50s give better Wats per dollar but are twice the size
> and weight.
> >
> > OK.. I can hear Ryan Bohm... "Rich??? Where's the Digi photo of
> that
> > charger??
> >
> > I have one on hand and will load it up and get some data and
> photos, Shot
> > for us all.
> >
> > I just go the first complete NON hacked up unit on hand last
> night... The
> > ones that live in the Tangos now are prototypes.
> > This has been about a 2 year incremental design upgrade. 9600
> watts in 1/2 a
> > cubic foot is getting pretty tight.
> >
> > The Aluminum heat sink is a work of art By my Dad and I. I
> could hang one on
> > the wall and be proud of it.
> >
> > I also have a pair of tricked out 40HM units with a copper
> thermal spreader
> > and twin 41 CFM fans in them. The PFC30s have 25 CFM fans...
> these should
> > really pump some air.
> > Lots of new stuff, and orders up the Gazzu..
> >
> > More watts in ever smaller packages... seams to keep the orders
> flowing my
> > way.
> > Didn't somebody say we could all live with smaller chargers???
> > Bahh Humbug!... That's not what you all are paying me to make!
> >
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "EVDL post" <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:50 PM
> > Subject: Tango in Hammacher Schlemmer catalog
> >
> >
> > > One of my co-workers pointed out the Tango in his Hammacher
> > > Schlemmer catalog. It's in the Holiday Preview 2006 edition,
> > > p.8, listed as "The 120M.P.H. Electric Car". The red Tango
> looks
> > > quite menacing with its bright lights on against a blue
> backdrop.
> > >
> > > The Tango is also at Hammacher's homepage at
> > > http://hammacher.com. I dropped one into my shopping bag for
> a
> > > cool 108 kilobucks, but unfortunately gift wrapping was
> > > unavailable. I doubt Santa would be able to get it down my
> > > chimney anyways, so that's as far as it went, but I do
> imagine it
> > > would make a great gift for that s.o. in your life.
> > >
> > > Rick Woodbury, creator of the Tango, dropped into a NBEAA
> meeting
> > > back in Feb. 2004. Story and photos at
> > > http://nbeaa.org/html/040214pastmeetings2004.html.
> > >
> > > Chuck Hursch
> > > Larkspur, CA
> > > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
> > > http://www.geocities.com/chursch/bizcard.bmp
> > >
> >
>
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