EV Digest 5860
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) My motor arrived -- there are questions =)
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Noise suppression: effect of bundling wires
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Home brewed 3 phase system
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Help -- Just get me off the list -- Please.
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Home brewed 3 phase system
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Home brewed 3 phase system
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: BB600/USE truck update
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: [uselectricar] BB600/USE truck update
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Help -- Just get me off the list -- Please.
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Dodge D50 conversion
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: [uselectricar] BB600/USE truck update
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: My motor arrived -- there are questions =)
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Battery monitor
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: PFC20 acting strange
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: My motor arrived -- there are questions =)
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: [uselectricar] BB600/USE truck update
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
by "David Sherritze" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: battery spreadsheet
by Chris Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: [uselectricar] BB600/USE truck update
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Battery monitor
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: [uselectricar] BB600/USE truck update
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Generator Trailer
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Mr. Husted, you have your ears on?
I bought item 10-1422 from Surplus Center ( http://tinyurl.com/mq8md ).
Paid $400, including shipping to S.California. This thing is heavy! >
80 lbs. It's pretty beefy looking.
Some thoughts:
=============
It's not new, despite what the website says. Far from it.
Their packing sucked. They put a pieces of plywood down for a base
(which is good), inside a cardboard box and then filled the rest of the
space with crumpled packing paper (which is bad). The box was pretty
beat up when it arrived, and there was a bit of damage: The rear hang
plate (as seen on website) was bent. Not really a concern for me, as I
was just going to discard it anyway. Plus, one of the terminal bolts
has been pushed in pretty severely. The bolts themselves are (I think)
3/8" bolts that are threaded into a black plastic spacer, which is sort
of cone shaped. This cone protrudes from what appears to be a large
metal nut, but is in actuality a large _plastic_ nut. The black cone is
demolished, and the plastic nut is split. I'm hoping that this part is
"intentionally weak" so that a bent (or shoved in) terminal won't mess
up the motor housing.
The face plate appears to be cast iron. It's a huge flange (11",
according to the website) that's bolted to the main motor body. There's
a large bulge around the shaft, which I assume is the bearing housing.
The shaft is actually > 1.25" diameter. The 1.25" refers to the nominal
spline diameter, which is 1/2 way up the slope of the splines.
The shaft has what appears to be a 0.25 or 0.375 threaded hole in the end.
There's no tailshaft -- the back end of the motor is sealed, and looks
like it's one piece with the rest of the motor.
I can turn the motor with my hand -- it makes a slight sound which is
about what I'd expect from the brushes.
Questions:
=========
What's best way to disassemble so that I can check out the insides? I'd
assume that I unbolt the face plate and lift it straight up, and that
the rotor will come with it, but I really don't know.
I'm concerned about the pushed-in bolt -- its one that's at the brush
end, and I hope it didn't impact the comm / rotor. The bolt does not
turn freely as the others do. Should I remove it before proceeding?
The paint sucks -- is there a recommended way to remove it from the
outside of the motor? I was thinking acetone and a pile of rags.
What primer / paint is recommended for the outside of a motor?
The faceplate is huge and unnecessary -- the ADCs have what appears to
be a thick AL plate. Is the faceplate part of the magnetic circuit, or
can it be replaced? I know it would have to be custom machined.
Can a hole be drilled in the tail end housing to allow installation of a
RPM sensor?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robyn Lundstrom wrote:
> Would the shielding have to extend over the *entire* wire set,
> even over, say, the battery terminals?
Shielding and bundling the wires work two different ways.
Bundling the wires (running them tightly together, twisting them, or
using coaxial cables) works by having equal and opposite currents in
each wire. It decreases the inductance, which decreases the noise.
Shielding doesn't do anything to reduce inductance, or the noise being
generated. It works by blocking the noise from escaping. The shield
works when there is ZERO current in the shield itself. Often, it is
grounded at only one point to insure that there is zero current in it.
> if the exposed portion is... 5% of the total length, would the
> resulting noise be 5% of what it would be with no shielding?
Not necessarily; it's a complicated situation. You can see this for
yourself with a portable AM radio. Often a small change will make a BIG
improvement in noise. Sometimes a large gap in a shield has very little
effect; other times even a small crack makes a big difference. You're
dealing with something you can't see, so you need instruments to measure
what is going on.
If you rely on shielding, you usually put all the "pieces" (batteries,
controller, motor, etc.) in metal boxes. Then connect them with wires
having a shield over them. Some of these parts, like the motor case and
controller, already have an outside metal enclosure that can be
grounded.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 11, 2006, at 11:08 AM, Electro Automotive wrote:
At 11:50 PM 9/10/2006, you wrote:
Hello All, I have a 71 Karmann Ghia (semi-automatic)
I'm converting a '71 Karmann Ghia coupe, but with a manual transmission.
A standard VW 4 speed could be installed in this chassis.
1) Swap the autostick chassis, along with the transaxle, for a manual
version. The autostick is rarer than the manual and should be worth
more than a manual in similar condition, so I don't expect there would
be much financial impact. Swapping the chassis on a Ghia is easy
enough for one newbie in a garage to do, if you read up on it first.
The Bug Me video on removing the body gave me the clues I needed to try
it myself.
Check out The Samba website for swapping Ghia parts.
<http://www.thesamba.com/> I saw a rolling Ghia chassis w/transaxle
for $350 (needs the pans replaced and probably other work as well).
However, the big deal breaker on a manual transmission installation
is fact that the factory did not put a tube inside the center tunnel
for the clutch cable to run through. Installing such a tube is an
expensive proposition.
2) Run a clutch tube down the outside of the center tunnel, inside the
car and near the floor. It will be covered up with carpet and you
won't know it's there. (Is this a bad idea, VW experts? I don't know.
Would brake line work well for this application?)
You would also have to install a pedal cluster with a clutch pedal.
Which brings me to
3) Do a clutchless conversion. Install a manual transaxle and a
clutchless adapter like the ones that Bob Batson at EV America sells,
and don't bother to install a clutch.
The "keep or ditch the clutch" argument is a popular one, with opinions
on both sides. In your case, your car is missing a clutch pedal, so it
might incline you to the clutchless side of the argument.
Pros of clutchless:
Less weight
Fewer parts to break
Takes up less room
Cheaper (in most cases)
Cons:
Shifting is slower (2-5 seconds)
Isn't "just like" an existing manual car - you need to learn how to
shift again. (Of course the autostick isn't "just like" a manual OR an
automatic, either!)
More wear on the syncros in the transmission
Removes a safety feature - if your controller fails on, you can't stomp
the clutch pedal to disengage the motor and stop the car.
Of course, EVs don't need to shift nearly as often as ICE cars, so IMHO
it's not a huge issue. I chose to keep my clutch, because I'm working
on my first EV and want it to work like a regular manual (and because I
want to be able to shift quickly for sporty driving). It was a close
call, though, and if my Ghia had been an autostick I might well have
chosen the clutchless route.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most 3-phase (rotary converters) just use a 3-phase motor
and capacitors. But I think you are talking about an
electronic converter = 3 phase locked sinus inverters?
I have a Variable Frequency Drive for a 3-phase motor
that I got surplus, including an old 3-phase motor.
Brand is Accuspeed, I think it works on 270V 3-phase or so
and should be at least 5 HP.
Your fellow's project would be a scaled up version of that.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mike Phillips
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 12:07 PM
To: EVDL
Subject: Home brewed 3 phase system
A fellow I know built his own 3 phase system. Cost $675 in parts. I
think it was 20kw. The bad news is he paid someone $6k to write the
software.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Folks, thanks for the concern, but I'm on this. We'll figure things out and
get
Leo taken care of. I appreciate everybody's response, but part of my "job"
here is to keep threads like this from taking up too much list bandwidth.
David Roden
EV List Assistant Administrator
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neither.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> and which of these two fellows is you?
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > A fellow I know built his own 3 phase system. Cost $675 in parts. I
> > think it was 20kw. The bad news is he paid someone $6k to write the
> > software.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll ask him and see what he says.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> So, he could build and sell, say.... 20 copies for $975 ea plus
labor and
> profit.
>
> How much would it cost to make it 5 times more powerful?
> --
> Stay Charged!
> Hump
>
> GE I-5
> Blossvale, NY
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Mike Phillips
> > Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:07 PM
> > To: EVDL
> > Subject: Home brewed 3 phase system
> >
> > A fellow I know built his own 3 phase system. Cost $675 in parts.
I think
> > it was 20kw. The bad news is he paid someone $6k to write the
software.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________
> Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Something like 2.125" long and maybe 36 or so.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Rick Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> How much bus do you need 1/8 X 3/4" ?
> -Rick Todd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 2:22 PM
> To: US Electricar; BB600; EVDL
> Subject: Re: BB600/USE truck update
>
> Allen Steel in Redwood city has been good for me. Lots of stock in
copper
> and Aluminum. LR.......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "US Electricar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "BB600"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "EVDL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 10:11 AM
> Subject: BB600/USE truck update
>
>
> > Did I mention that I put 130 miles on this BB600 pack in just a few
> > days? No muss no fuss, so far.
> >
> > The cells have now been moved from the bed to the box. About half of
> > the bus bars have been installed. 250 buss bars, 500 nuts and a few
> > cables will be the total. I will be a bit short on bus bars so some
> > have to be machined. But it should be running again by the weekend I
> > hope.
> >
> > I thought this weekend that using flattened copper tubing would work,
> > but it was only .070" thick when crushed. Too bad. That was easy to do
> > too.
> >
> > It looks like the metal suppliers near me in San Jose are gone. So I'm
> > ordering some 3/4" x 1/8" bar from Mcmaster.
> >
> > The temperature crayons and the protective coating material should be
> > here today. I want to watch the temperature of all of the hardware to
> > see if anything is getting hot. Picked up 4 differnet temperatures.
> > 113F, thru 150F.
> >
> > Need to make a water checking bulb for these cells too so they won't
> > have to come out for level checks. Maybe one for the green tops as
they
> > have a deeper V and another for the red tops.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
Did I mention that I put 130 miles on this BB600 pack in just a few
days? No muss no fuss, so far.
*nod* I've got over 200 miles on my pack at this point. I'm beginning to
think the sag I am seeing is not because of the batteries so much as the
4 gauge interconnect wire I used to connect the banks of cells to the
disconnect switch. As a bonus the wire might be Al, not Cu. Above 150a
or so it drops more steeply than below.
Not a biggie; I should just go to all 4 gauge copper wire. When you get
your truck under steam we can compare notes.
It looks like the metal suppliers near me in San Jose are gone. So I'm
ordering some 3/4" x 1/8" bar from Mcmaster.
Might want to see if anyone will sell you some John interconnects. They
work very well in both directions.
The temperature crayons and the protective coating material should be
here today. I want to watch the temperature of all of the hardware to
see if anything is getting hot. Picked up 4 differnet temperatures.
113F, thru 150F.
Let us know what you see; I'll probably put some markers and a beta
monitor on the pack when I pull the bed in fall.
I can't wait till it's 0 degrees here and I am hotrodding the truck in
the bitter cold. Gotta love NiCD!
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I'm waiting on the output of a "help" request to [EMAIL PROTECTED] to see if
> this list server allows for unsubscribe requests from another email address.
> I'll let you know what I find out.
>
> Matt
That makes no sense whatsoever! That would mean that anybody can unsubscribe
anybody.....
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One of our members has one. Check it out at www.TEVA2.com on the members page.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
www.TEVA2.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 5:20 AM
Subject: Dodge D50 conversion
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] is a bad address (evalbum) wanted to ask his advice on
> converting a D50 I'm getting for $400
>
> Anyone have links to others that have converted this truck?
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Doug Weathers wrote:
> 1) Swap the autostick chassis, along with the transaxle, for a manual
> version. The autostick is rarer than the manual and should be worth
> more than a manual in similar condition, so I don't expect there
> would be much financial impact.
I think pulling the body and swapping chassis is a bigger job than
installing a clutch cable tube. Now, if the Ghia's floorpan needs work
anyway, it might not be a bad idea to swap for a manual tranny chassis
while the body is off, but I personally would not pull the body just
because of a clutch cable tube.
> 2) Run a clutch tube down the outside of the center tunnel,
> inside the car and near the floor. It will be covered up with
> carpet and you won't know it's there. (Is this a bad idea, VW
> experts?
Problem here is that the cable has to hook over the little arm on the
lcutch pedal shaft, and this arm is *inside* the center tunnel. You
could run the tube along the outside of the tunnel, but you'd have to
drill a hole in the tunnel and bring the tube back inside 6" or so
before the opening where the pedal assembly bolts to the tunnel. Less
of a problem at the other end of the car, though you might still want to
drill a hole in the side of the tunnel and bring the tube into the
tunnel as a means of getting it cleanly out to the tranny.
I'm not sure how different the Ghia floorpan is from the Beetle's, but
on the Beetle there is an access panel at the front that unbolts to
allow access to the hollow tunnel. It would not seem to be such a huge
undertaking to slide a clutch tube into the tunnel and then drill or cut
a couple of access holes in the sheet metal floor of the tunnel in
appropriate places to allow attaching clamps to hold the tube into
position. Seal the access holes with sheet metal covers afterwards.
> > You would also have to install a pedal cluster with a clutch pedal.
Again, my experience is with Beetle, but if the Ghia is not too
dissimilar, than this is not a big problem. In the Beetle, the pedal
assembly attaches to the tunnel with a pair of bolts; just remove the
original pedal assembly and replace with a manual tranny set.
> Cons [of clutchless]:
>
> More wear on the syncros in the transmission
In the case of an aircooled VW, it may also mean more wear on the shift
forks. These are what slide the syncros back and forth to engage the
gear of your choosing, and they are relatively soft such that they can
bend if you apply too much pressure trying to encourage a gear to engage
before it is ready, etc. I haven't tried shifting clutchless in an
electric VW, but have a lot of experience speed shifting ICE VWs. ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 11, 2006, at 10:08 AM, Electro Automotive wrote:
A standard VW 4 speed could be installed in this chassis. The
gearshift lever would have to be replaced with one from a standard
transmission because the autostick lever had contact points that
closed the circuit to actuate the clutch. However, the big deal
breaker on a manual transmission installation is fact that the factory
did not put a tube inside the center tunnel for the clutch cable to
run through. Installing such a tube is an expensive proposition. You
would also have to install a pedal cluster with a clutch pedal.
This sounds like an excuse to build a clutchless EV. The switch on the
shifter is no big deal (just don't use it) but the shifter may have to
be replaced to get the correct shift gate for the 4-speed. I drive a
clutchless VW Beetle based EV (my buggy) and don't find the lack of a
clutch to be a serious issue with the stock 4-speed.
If I was racing I'd want the clutch. If I was attempting to use a
contactor controller I'd want a clutch. I do neither so I don't need
it. My EV has been on the road every summer since 1999. The aircooled
VW 4-speed is an example of a gearbox that can tolerate being shifted
clutchless *and* doesn't need the input shaft supported by a pilot
bearing (unless you have a clutch.)
Paul G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My nimh pack and the nicad pack when they were in the bed ran pretty
good on only 6 ga copper wire. But the new install has the 2 ga copper
wire and 1/8 x 3/4 x 2 busbars. I'll be happier if it gets better, but
it was just fine before.
Have you watered them at all?
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> >
> >
> > Did I mention that I put 130 miles on this BB600 pack in just a few
> > days? No muss no fuss, so far.
>
> *nod* I've got over 200 miles on my pack at this point. I'm
beginning to
> think the sag I am seeing is not because of the batteries so much as
the
> 4 gauge interconnect wire I used to connect the banks of cells to the
> disconnect switch. As a bonus the wire might be Al, not Cu. Above 150a
> or so it drops more steeply than below.
>
> Not a biggie; I should just go to all 4 gauge copper wire. When you get
> your truck under steam we can compare notes.
>
> > It looks like the metal suppliers near me in San Jose are gone. So I'm
> > ordering some 3/4" x 1/8" bar from Mcmaster.
>
> Might want to see if anyone will sell you some John interconnects. They
> work very well in both directions.
>
> > The temperature crayons and the protective coating material should be
> > here today. I want to watch the temperature of all of the hardware to
> > see if anything is getting hot. Picked up 4 differnet temperatures.
> > 113F, thru 150F.
>
> Let us know what you see; I'll probably put some markers and a beta
> monitor on the pack when I pull the bed in fall.
>
> I can't wait till it's 0 degrees here and I am hotrodding the truck in
> the bitter cold. Gotta love NiCD!
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Eric
Tisk, Tisk, you ain't had it two minutes and ya screwed it up already huh 8^ P
Well let's start at the begining
Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mr. Husted, you have your ears on?
>>Yes I do but it's my wifes B'day so in a hurry to finish before she gets
home 8^)
I bought item 10-1422 from Surplus Center ( http://tinyurl.com/mq8md ).
Paid $400, including shipping to S.California. This thing is heavy! >
80 lbs. It's pretty beefy looking.
Some thoughts:
=============
It's not new, despite what the website says. Far from it.
>> Call them on that then, the other bigger motor looked new from the videos.
Their packing sucked. They put a pieces of plywood down for a base
(which is good), inside a cardboard box and then filled the rest of the
space with crumpled packing paper (which is bad).
>> Actually I used packed paper and if done right works very well. Of course
I get unprinted end rolls (wife works at a newspaper), and I pack it good 8^)
The box was pretty
beat up when it arrived, and there was a bit of damage: The rear hang
plate (as seen on website) was bent.
>>> Now you know what my life is like, LMAO!
Not really a concern for me, as I
was just going to discard it anyway. Plus, one of the terminal bolts
has been pushed in pretty severely. The bolts themselves are (I think)
3/8" bolts that are threaded into a black plastic spacer, which is sort
of cone shaped. This cone protrudes from what appears to be a large
metal nut, but is in actuality a large _plastic_ nut. The black cone is
demolished, and the plastic nut is split. I'm hoping that this part is
"intentionally weak" so that a bent (or shoved in) terminal won't mess
up the motor housing.
>> Those are called molded terminal kits. They are just plastic nuts with a
brass threaded core that is cast inside. BTW That broke because it had 80
Lbs.s falling 3 feet on it. Got to love the freight boys 8^)
The face plate appears to be cast iron. It's a huge flange (11",
according to the website) that's bolted to the main motor body. There's
a large bulge around the shaft, which I assume is the bearing housing.
>> Correct
The shaft is actually > 1.25" diameter. The 1.25" refers to the nominal
spline diameter, which is 1/2 way up the slope of the splines.
The shaft has what appears to be a 0.25 or 0.375 threaded hole in the end.
There's no tailshaft -- the back end of the motor is sealed, and looks
like it's one piece with the rest of the motor.
I can turn the motor with my hand -- it makes a slight sound which is
about what I'd expect from the brushes.
Questions:
=========
What's best way to disassemble so that I can check out the insides? I'd
assume that I unbolt the face plate and lift it straight up, and that
the rotor will come with it, but I really don't know.
>> Remove the DE (drive) plate bolts and slide the plate and armature assy.
out Remove springs and brushes or be careful (best to remove the springs at
least o keep brushes from chipping. You can now remove the CE (brush) end
plate, where you can access both housing and CE plate. To remove the DE plate
from the armature could be from just tapping it off to having snap-rings hidden
behind oil seals so send pics if needed.
I'm concerned about the pushed-in bolt -- its one that's at the brush
end, and I hope it didn't impact the comm / rotor. The bolt does not
turn freely as the others do. Should I remove it before proceeding?
>> This is a bummer, if needed you could use a regular brass bolt (like the
ADC,Warp) terminals or replace it. Contact off list if you need help here.
The paint sucks -- is there a recommended way to remove it from the
outside of the motor? I was thinking acetone and a pile of rags.
What primer / paint is recommended for the outside of a motor?
>>I sand blast mine so what ever you have means to do, just be safe. Pull
the fields and send out to a shop to sand blast it.
The faceplate is huge and unnecessary -- the ADCs have what appears to
be a thick AL plate. Is the faceplate part of the magnetic circuit, or
can it be replaced? I know it would have to be custom machined.
>>By all means craft away as this doesn't need to be iron, the newer GE's
have Al plates on the CE.
Can a hole be drilled in the tail end housing to allow installation of a
RPM sensor?
>> Yep done several now but you have to make a shaft extension to get it to
stick passed the plate edge.
Well I hope that helps, I am in a hurry so let me know if I missed anything
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
PS: I'll try and get a post out on the compound wound motor soon. Tough
choice, wifes birthday, list posting, wifes birthday, list posting, , Wife
wins, LMAO!
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Because the batteries in my Suzuki will be scattered
all over the car I've been thinking of putting in a
patch panel, probably under the hood, so that I can
measure each battery without crawling around. I could
also put a charger on an individual battery if it
proved to be low.
If I did this, yes I would put a fuse on each line,
would I be able to put in some of Lee's battery shunts
in this location rather than putting them at each
battery terminal? I wouldn't be able to see the lights
at the battery terminals.
Thanks.
Storm
__________________________________________________
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First thing I checked was the dc-dc, it was in sleep mode, the fan was
barely turning. I don;t think that the dc-dc is the issue but there was
one more common item, I pulled the pack down a little furthor than
normal both times.
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>
> PS: I'll try and get a post out on the compound wound motor soon.
Tough choice, wifes birthday, list posting, wifes birthday, list
posting, , Wife wins, LMAO!
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
My Kewet's motor waits with baited breath...
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Mike Phillips wrote:
My nimh pack and the nicad pack when they were in the bed ran pretty
good on only 6 ga copper wire. But the new install has the 2 ga copper
wire and 1/8 x 3/4 x 2 busbars. I'll be happier if it gets better, but
it was just fine before.
Have you watered them at all?
Not since the initial charge when I brought them all up to happy level.
In order to do so I would have to take the bed off. Bit of a pain for a
single-person operation; I was going to wait till early October.
Anyone in MD want to drop by my house this weekend or next and help me
water a string of NiCDs? Free ride afterwards. It should be a 1 hour
operation if I can get someone to help me lift off the bed (it's not
heavy, just bulky)
Chris
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I have a tubular dune buggy. I use a pedal assembly that has a hydraulic
master cylinder for both the brakes and a hydraulic cylinder for the clutch.
You just run a small hydraulic hose to the hydraulic slave cylinder to
operate the clutch.
The problem would be the firewall on the KG as the pedal assembly is larger.
Just an idea that may spark some other idea.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 6:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
Doug Weathers wrote:
> 1) Swap the autostick chassis, along with the transaxle, for a manual
> version. The autostick is rarer than the manual and should be worth
> more than a manual in similar condition, so I don't expect there
> would be much financial impact.
I think pulling the body and swapping chassis is a bigger job than
installing a clutch cable tube. Now, if the Ghia's floorpan needs work
anyway, it might not be a bad idea to swap for a manual tranny chassis
while the body is off, but I personally would not pull the body just
because of a clutch cable tube.
> 2) Run a clutch tube down the outside of the center tunnel,
> inside the car and near the floor. It will be covered up with
> carpet and you won't know it's there. (Is this a bad idea, VW
> experts?
Problem here is that the cable has to hook over the little arm on the
lcutch pedal shaft, and this arm is *inside* the center tunnel. You
could run the tube along the outside of the tunnel, but you'd have to
drill a hole in the tunnel and bring the tube back inside 6" or so
before the opening where the pedal assembly bolts to the tunnel. Less
of a problem at the other end of the car, though you might still want to
drill a hole in the side of the tunnel and bring the tube into the
tunnel as a means of getting it cleanly out to the tranny.
I'm not sure how different the Ghia floorpan is from the Beetle's, but
on the Beetle there is an access panel at the front that unbolts to
allow access to the hollow tunnel. It would not seem to be such a huge
undertaking to slide a clutch tube into the tunnel and then drill or cut
a couple of access holes in the sheet metal floor of the tunnel in
appropriate places to allow attaching clamps to hold the tube into
position. Seal the access holes with sheet metal covers afterwards.
> > You would also have to install a pedal cluster with a clutch pedal.
Again, my experience is with Beetle, but if the Ghia is not too
dissimilar, than this is not a big problem. In the Beetle, the pedal
assembly attaches to the tunnel with a pair of bolts; just remove the
original pedal assembly and replace with a manual tranny set.
> Cons [of clutchless]:
>
> More wear on the syncros in the transmission
In the case of an aircooled VW, it may also mean more wear on the shift
forks. These are what slide the syncros back and forth to engage the
gear of your choosing, and they are relatively soft such that they can
bend if you apply too much pressure trying to encourage a gear to engage
before it is ready, etc. I haven't tried shifting clutchless in an
electric VW, but have a lot of experience speed shifting ICE VWs. ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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Here's the CalCars battery spreadsheet:
http://www.calcars.org/calcars-phev-batteries18feb06-rdg.pdf
Here's the stale, incomplete and non-defect-free
battery analysis I did a couple of years ago:
http://www.geocities.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/EV/13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/EV/specificpe.gif
http://www.geocities.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/EV/costvsenergy.gif
One thing to add to my analysis would be shelf life
--the cost vs. cycle info is correct if you use it up
fast enough, but warm climates may wear out batteries
faster.
Chris Jones
Santa Rosa, CA
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/733
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Chris
Any way you can rig up a few pulleys and ropes in your garage? Back it in, lift
the bed and have
at it. Of course, it is more fun to have some people over and make a barbeque
out of it.
Dave Cover
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > My nimh pack and the nicad pack when they were in the bed ran pretty
> > good on only 6 ga copper wire. But the new install has the 2 ga copper
> > wire and 1/8 x 3/4 x 2 busbars. I'll be happier if it gets better, but
> > it was just fine before.
> >
> > Have you watered them at all?
>
> Not since the initial charge when I brought them all up to happy level.
>
> In order to do so I would have to take the bed off. Bit of a pain for a
> single-person operation; I was going to wait till early October.
>
> Anyone in MD want to drop by my house this weekend or next and help me
> water a string of NiCDs? Free ride afterwards. It should be a 1 hour
> operation if I can get someone to help me lift off the bed (it's not
> heavy, just bulky)
>
> Chris
>
>
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People might argue that there will different losses in each pair of
wires going to your display. But the bottom line is you should have a
happier pack due to the fact that you have each battery regulated.
Even if there was a bit of loss in one pair of wires that is not in
another pair, it will still bring them much closer together than
having nothing at all! The difference in loses if you use the same
brand/type of wire, won't amount to squat.
I'm doing the same thing for a monitoring/EQ system. Using teflone
coated wire for mine. Nice and electrolyte proof. I'm using 22ga. You
might need a bit larger gage. All depends on your current draw from
each regulator.
A licensed electrician showed me documentation that wire with a good
insulation is rated higher than a wire with cheap insulation. Both are
the same gage.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Because the batteries in my Suzuki will be scattered
> all over the car I've been thinking of putting in a
> patch panel, probably under the hood, so that I can
> measure each battery without crawling around. I could
> also put a charger on an individual battery if it
> proved to be low.
>
> If I did this, yes I would put a fuse on each line,
> would I be able to put in some of Lee's battery shunts
> in this location rather than putting them at each
> battery terminal? I wouldn't be able to see the lights
> at the battery terminals.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Storm
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 11, 2006, at 8:56 PM, Dave Cover wrote:
Any way you can rig up a few pulleys and ropes in your garage? Back it
in, lift the bed and have at it.
While it's up in the air, why not install a tilt bed kit? Bob Batson
at EV America sells them (or used to, haven't checked recently).
Of course, it is more fun to have some people over and make a barbeque
out of it.
I used to cook hot dogs with an extension cord and a couple of nails.
Electric weenie roast! Also serves as a great demonstration of why you
want to keep your fingers away from the high voltage.
I bet you could make something like an electrified tortilla press to
cook hamburgers too.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
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--- Begin Message ---
> From: "John G. Lussmyer"
> So, you are of the opinion that having a 2nd car, (with taxes,
> insurance, registration, and parking costs) is a better idea than
> having a clean, efficient generator that can also be used to power
> your house during a power failure?
A "clean" generator, at least those most folks are talking about, is an
oxymoron. Granted, there are some pretty decent jobs out there, these days.
If you are talking about hooking up one of the NG models (used as home
generators) then it might be worthwhile. It also would be worthwhile, I'd
think, if you are talking about using the generator 3 or 4 times a year.
That's a huge difference from the original post, though. He wanted daily use
so he could do 2.5 times his max range. Especially if you are talking about
one of those sub-$1K Honda (or other) generators. Granted, you only get so
much carbon out of a gallon of gas, but these small engines dump far more
pollution (ppm) than even an old auto in other pollutant types. I can't even
imagine how inefficient this would be in pushing you rig down the road...
losses from an inefficient engine type... then losses to running your
charger. I don't know about your charger, but mine took 8 hours to stuff 45
minutes of run time back into my batts... and drew about as much as one of
those smaller generators are capable of.
Yes, a 2nd car can be insured as a collector's car nation wide, at least by
Farmers. There's a little pushed plan, based on mileage. At least that's why
my agent told me. I am restoring (in my dreams) my '66 Beetle. If/when
finished, it'll make 3 or 4 trips a year. The cost is zero for the
vehicle... since I would do the restoration in any case. (As many folks do.)
The cost of maintenance and insurance is the variable. If I recall, he
quoted 500 miles per year at $100 insurance.
On the other point, how much does a 2nd car provide? *If* your EV can't do
all the range you need on a regular basis, then a 2nd car is a good idea.
How much car do you need? If you are talking a couple trips a year, rent a
car. (We do this on occasion, such as when the family comes to visit... a
mini-van every year or two.) If you are talking a weekly trip, or for a
family of 2 drivers, then a 2nd car is almost necessary. It's not
inexpensive, but can make sense...
A decent trailer is going to set you back $800. A small generator another
$800. That's about the cost of a moderately reliable used clunker. Go small,
and you are going to get around 30MPG. Unless your EV is very tiny, I don't
think you are going to see that MPG with a small generator. Parking? Where
do you park your EV? Same difference, whichever you are driving. Taxes? I
guess that could matter in CA? What tax? Our only tax is in the cost of
fuel, and if the 2nd car gets better mileage than a generator, then it's a
savings. Registration is a consideration. Here it's about $20 a year.
Weigh that against the trailer. First you have to build and set it up. What
will it do to the reliability of your rig? (I put a timer on my charger when
it's parked... learned the hard way.) How much range will it give you? For
me, plugging in the charger to the generator would have added about 1/10th
more range... though it would continue to charge at redlights, so it may
have been better. One word of advice, though, tow a trailer with the extra
weight on. You may find the generator trailer drags you down enough that its
increased range is not worth it (unless you *like* sitting in roadside stops
for an hour or two.)
Mostly, I think you should use each rig for what it does best. If an EV will
do the job, then great. But don't discount 100 years of development in the
ICE. Heck, run it on propane or CNG, if you think it's too dirty. Or think
of it as an accessory to your EV. (That makes it more acceptable, eh? How
many folks wouldn't spend an extra 20% to have their EV, on those rare
occasions, go the extra mile?)
...again, just my thoughts...
----- Original Message -----
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: Generator Trailer
> At 10:56 PM 9/9/2006, Michael Perry wrote:
> >Tell your agent it's a "collector's car" and get it insured for $80 a
year.
>
> I sincerely doubt that's true everywhere.
>
> >Of all the EV ideas, the auxiliary generator is the lamest. This makes as
> >much sense as the guy who wanted his donkey to win the Kentucky Derby.
You
> >waste your time, money, and in the end, you are both jackasses. <vbg> If
> >your EV can't do the job for a few trips, find something that can... or
ride
> >Greyhound, for crying out loud.
>
> So, you are of the opinion that having a 2nd car, (with taxes,
> insurance, registration, and parking costs) is a better idea than
> having a clean, efficient generator that can also be used to power
> your house during a power failure?
> Of course, if you only use it 4 or 5 times a year, your gas car is
> also going to have more maintenance problems that usual for a car.
>
> Each to his own I guess.
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
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