EV Digest 5873
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Any Ideas
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) Australian EV group
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) Re: Australian EV
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Bizarre ADC 8" intermittency?
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Auburn Kodiak c600
by "evranger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: motor mounting question
by "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Any Ideas
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
by "Dmitri Hurik" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Magnecharger for sale in Sunnyvale, California $200
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Bizarre ADC 8" intermittency?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Any Ideas
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Bizarre ADC 8" intermittency?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Any Ideas
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) Re: motor mounting question
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cobasys NiMH battery module contract
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Any Ideas
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Auburn Kodiak c600
by Dave McGuire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Any Ideas
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) RE: Australian EV group
by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Australian EV group
by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Motor Controller and Battery Charger
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Hybrid Pony
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) EVision (was: LED vs LCD display)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) eGO Scooter stolen in LA
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Any Ideas
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Australian EV group
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Australian EV group
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) IRS, also Re: Any Ideas (two motors)
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Any ideas on how to install two electric motors to one single drive line.
All the reasonable priced AC motors I have found do not have a double shaft or
are not the pancake type. An all wheel drive vehicle weight is not acceptable.
Don
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have previously been a member of the AEVA but let it lapse because they
stopped sending newsletters. I have inquired since and got no response from
them. I am not sure if they are still active. Being in Australia I know of most
of the available components suppliers and would be happy to refer people to
them.
Email: dilkes"iinet.net.au
Website: http:www.dilkesmotors.com
Regards, Rod Dilkes
Subject: Australian EV group
> Hey all...
>
> Plug In America has been getting several folks writing in from Australia
> since the Dateline piece (and a few before) wanting info on local EV
> resources. I've noticed several Aussies on this list- is there an EAA
> equivalent there at all or any specific place you'd like me to refer them
> to, besides the EAA and PIA sites?
>
> Thanks,
>
> chelsea
>
> Hi Chelsea;
Gees! How nice to see you here!I would like to say " Welcome Aboard"
and say thanks from an' Old EV Fart here!Hope ya stick around?? I follow
Plug in America and glad to see all the what's going on there, and the great
links. Seems it;'s time to get the Worlds' EVers together. A International
EAA? Why not? I'll bet there are people all over the world that would chime
in?There IS a Japan EV Club, or group thing there. China? Hello, China?
France, I know, England, there are a bunch of guys from UK on the List
already.
Maybe "Plug in the World" is next?
MY two Watts worth.
Bob, in the Colonies, CT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oops,
I mean't to say http://www.dilkesmotors.com
New website.
Rod Dilkes
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Bath wrote:
I'm also wondering if a strange rattly sound I have on
hard acceleration is related to it.
Don't know about the other stuff, but I had that same rattly sound on
hard acceleration. I blew up my motor by overrevving it.
Could've been brush arcing. But I'm betting that's what the ADC (mine
was 9") sounds like when it's reaching its rev limits.
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's the pinout
Grizzly Harness Wire Color Definitions
Connector Pin # Wire Color Function Note
1 Red Controller Enable
2 Orange Throttle Pot
3 Yellow Throttle Pot
4 Blue Diagnostic + Leave unconnected
5 Green Chassis Ground Was Green/Yellow
6 Brown Low Power Mode
7 Grey Economy Mode Was green
8 Violet Diagnostic - Leave unconnected
9 White Contactor Enable
and here's the part's you'll need to build a harness.
you can get all the pieces you'll need from Digikey. I don't remember which
is which but here are their part numbers for the contacts and
housings:
A1303-ND 9pin recept
A1302-ND 9 pin plug
A1331-ND cable clamps
A1647-ND connector pin
A1656-ND connector socket
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave McGuire
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 4:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Auburn Kodiak c600
Hi all, just joined the list and I am collecting info
and parts to do my first ev conversion. I work as a
mechanic so the wrenching is nothing new but there are
obviously many things I'm not as familiar with.
So... I bought an Auburn c600 controller on ebay and
then realized it doesnt have the cord thats suposed to
attach to the pot box and I dont know what else. On
the controller end is a round connector with 6 pins.
Hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about. :)
Anyhow, does anyone have/know where to get one of
these cords or can anyone tell me what pin conects to
what so I can rig something up?
Thanks in advance and expect many more confused posts
as I collect more parts and start putting things
together.
Dave McGuire
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I really wish I could see pictures alongside these great descriptions
(that I'm having a hard time visualizing). Do you have any, Roland?
I'd be glad to host them if you don't have them up anywhere already.
Matt
On 9/14/06, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello John,
You can mount the clam shell any place between the two motor terminals.
My clam shell on the 9 inch is 5 inches wide and mounts right behind the
front terminals (at the pilot shaft end).
This is where I mounted it, so it will fit my engine mount location.
You will find when a transmission is mounted on the motor, the center of
balance may be at the rear of the motor (towards the transmission).
I weld 1/4 by 1/4 inch square rods under the clam shell, so the clam shell
can slide over the field bolts that are on the surface of my Warp 9. This
raises the clam shell up a bit, so I weld on a larger angle flange at one
end of the clam shell, so it will fit tight over the body of the motor.
I welded 3 rolls of 1/4 by 1/4 under the 5 inch clam shell which one was on
the outside edges and one somewhere in the middle so as to miss the field
bolts and every thing would line up to the engine mount.
My clam shall looks 3/8 inch thick with the 1/4 inch rods weld on the side.
I then painted it with Stainless Steel epoxy appliance paint which needs no
primer.
I still had to made a small adapter that is 3/4 inch thick that is welded in
the correct locations on the side. These are tap with 1/2 inch bolt holes
to fit the existing GM engine mounts.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:45 PM
Subject: motor mounting question
> OK so i'm making some progress which of course means I have questions.
>
> I have a 9 inch ADC and one of the clamshell type mounts. I am
> fabricating a cross brace that the clamshell will hang from. The cross
> brace is attached to the stock engine mounts of my truck. I have a
> little bit of leeway regarding where on the motor the clamshell mount
> will attach. The way I currently have it laid out the clamshell will be
> forward (towards the transmission) of the middle of the motor. Should I
> try and relocate the cross brace and clamshell so that it holds the
> middle of the motor?
>
> For reference in all cases the clamshell strap will attach between the
> motor terminal bolts
>
> John
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had to download some bittorrent software and play
with the computer a little, but this video was
awesome!
Keep up the good work John! You need to go towards
the end of the video to see the White Zombie and
Otmar's car blow off a few gassers on the track.
Rod
--- Mark Fowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Wow - there are currently 56 seeds (people who have
> already downloaded
> it and are still sharing it with the world) and 19
> peers (people still
> downloading and sharing what they have)
>
> I was expecting both these numbers to be less than
> 5.
>
> Cool!
>
> Mark
> P.s. thanks for the link - I may be in Aus, but I
> don't get SBS :-)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
> David Ankers
> > Subject: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
> >
> > Found this on mininova:
> >
> > http://www.mininova.org/tor/422839
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shot in the dark here, but maybe put a motor on each axle of a differential,
and take the power off the prop shaft?
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
"The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
~Calvin Coolidge~
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: Any Ideas
Any ideas on how to install two electric motors to one single drive line.
All the reasonable priced AC motors I have found do not have a double
shaft or
are not the pancake type. An all wheel drive vehicle weight is not
acceptable.
Don
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, and I'm now one of the seeds :-)
"I was expecting both these numbers to be less than 5." Exactly what I
thought!!
Thanks for sharing the link. I luv bittorrent.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 3:02 PM
Subject: RE: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
Wow - there are currently 56 seeds (people who have already downloaded
it and are still sharing it with the world) and 19 peers (people still
downloading and sharing what they have)
I was expecting both these numbers to be less than 5.
Cool!
Mark
P.s. thanks for the link - I may be in Aus, but I don't get SBS :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Ankers
Subject: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
Found this on mininova:
http://www.mininova.org/tor/422839
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If even $50. The only vehicles that can use these large paddle chargers are
S-10E's and a few solectria's that got the paddle port. If anyone really needs
one I think I know where they could be had for free. If it were a small paddle
charger (it's not) it would be worth something for RAV4EV's.
Rick
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 14:50:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Magnecharger for sale in Sunnyvale, California $200
To: [email protected]
Lawrence you are correct. There is a port on the vehicle that connects to
the BMS. This one is a large paddle and the heavy floor standing unit. It is
worth 50 dollars if it works.
Don Blazer
98 S-10 EV
In a message dated 9/14/2006 9:38:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
You still need a device to plug it into. I bet it's not as simple as the
Avcon. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Magnecharger for sale in Sunnyvale, California $200
> In my home town I noticed a Magnecharger for sale for $200
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/206774222.html
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, I never overrev. That is not to say that
the previous user didn't overrev. The hard accel.
refers more to load induced by a steep hill, or more
of a jackrabbit start.
--- Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bob Bath wrote:
> > I'm also wondering if a strange rattly sound I
> have on
> > hard acceleration is related to it.
> >
> Don't know about the other stuff, but I had that
> same rattly sound on
> hard acceleration. I blew up my motor by
> overrevving it.
>
> Could've been brush arcing. But I'm betting that's
> what the ADC (mine
> was 9") sounds like when it's reaching its rev
> limits.
>
> Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Shot in the dark here, but maybe put a motor on each axle of a
differential,
> and take the power off the prop shaft?
>
>From the prop shaft into another diff or 2 motors per wheel?! An
Eliica with 4 wheels but 8 motors??!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Bob
I doubt this is a motor problem. Unless your brushes are worn out and
loosing contactto the comm. A short to frame from a loose coil or carbon dust
would not keep the motor from running (where jiggling cables would do
anything). Sounds more like a controller issue or loose connection to the
motor. Your lurching comment points me also to the controller, motors just
doing what it's told so to speak. Anyway just thought I'd chime in on the
motor side of things that I don't think it's the problem just showing the
symtems. I'd check to see whats causing the noise though.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Howdy!
Well this is a new one...
I charged the EV while outside last night. Humidity
up, temp down (5C)?
When I went out to drive it at 5:40 am, the Raptor 600
turned on the green LED; dash lit up, and... no motor.
Took the gas-burner to my meeting, then back at 7:15
to see what happened in the light.
Jiggled the A1-S2 cables, turned on the keyswitch,
and... no problems.
So here I am, wondering why.
a) Loose field coil issue.
b) brush carbon dust inside the motor causing an
intermittency.
I'm also wondering if a strange rattly sound I have on
hard acceleration is related to it.
For the short term, it's on the road again, but my
grin is more of a look of perplexion.
Your ideas?
Thanks as always!
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess that would work but would mounting electric motors on a suspension
part lead to an early failure of the motors? The weight might be a problem with
the vehicle ride.
Would this be done with a chain type drive? If so I could mount the motors
where the ICE was with a chain drive to each motor. The question then would be
is chain the best way to do this.
Don
In a message dated 9/14/2006 9:01:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Shot in the dark here, but maybe put a motor on each axle of a differential,
and take the power off the prop shaft?
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
"The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
~Calvin Coolidge~
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: Any Ideas
> Any ideas on how to install two electric motors to one single drive line.
> All the reasonable priced AC motors I have found do not have a double
> shaft or
> are not the pancake type. An all wheel drive vehicle weight is not
> acceptable.
>
> Don
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Matt,
No, I do not have any pictures of this motor mount. It is just a wider clam
shell that goes over the field bolts. The field bolts keeps the clamp shell
about 1/4 inch from the surface of the motor.
So I welded in a 1/4 inch square rod which I roll to fit under the clam
shell edges and center so it can press against the body of the motor.
This Warp 9 motor is just a temporary motor until I get my GE 11 inch back
from the motor shop.
The Warp 9 being 2 inches smaller in diameter than the GE 11, and making the
clam shell 3/8 inch thicker, needed only 5/8 inch by 2 inch steel bar weld
on the side made the outside diameter of 11 inches to fit the existing
engine mounts.
When I remove the Warp 9 unit, I will then take some pictures and post them.
I will be selling this motor to a engineer down the street from me.
I will used a Warp 11 motor as a back up motor. I will tap the side of the
motor for the engine mount bolt holes, the same as the GE 11 is now.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: motor mounting question
> I really wish I could see pictures alongside these great descriptions
> (that I'm having a hard time visualizing). Do you have any, Roland?
> I'd be glad to host them if you don't have them up anywhere already.
>
> Matt
>
> On 9/14/06, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hello John,
> >
> > You can mount the clam shell any place between the two motor terminals.
> >
> > My clam shell on the 9 inch is 5 inches wide and mounts right behind the
> > front terminals (at the pilot shaft end).
> >
> > This is where I mounted it, so it will fit my engine mount location.
> >
> > You will find when a transmission is mounted on the motor, the center of
> > balance may be at the rear of the motor (towards the transmission).
> >
> > I weld 1/4 by 1/4 inch square rods under the clam shell, so the clam
> > shell
> > can slide over the field bolts that are on the surface of my Warp 9.
> > This
> > raises the clam shell up a bit, so I weld on a larger angle flange at
> > one
> > end of the clam shell, so it will fit tight over the body of the motor.
> >
> > I welded 3 rolls of 1/4 by 1/4 under the 5 inch clam shell which one was
> > on
> > the outside edges and one somewhere in the middle so as to miss the
> > field
> > bolts and every thing would line up to the engine mount.
> >
> > My clam shall looks 3/8 inch thick with the 1/4 inch rods weld on the
> > side.
> > I then painted it with Stainless Steel epoxy appliance paint which needs
> > no
> > primer.
> >
> > I still had to made a small adapter that is 3/4 inch thick that is
> > welded in
> > the correct locations on the side. These are tap with 1/2 inch bolt
> > holes
> > to fit the existing GM engine mounts.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:45 PM
> > Subject: motor mounting question
> >
> >
> > > OK so i'm making some progress which of course means I have questions.
> > >
> > > I have a 9 inch ADC and one of the clamshell type mounts. I am
> > > fabricating a cross brace that the clamshell will hang from. The cross
> > > brace is attached to the stock engine mounts of my truck. I have a
> > > little bit of leeway regarding where on the motor the clamshell mount
> > > will attach. The way I currently have it laid out the clamshell will
> > > be
> > > forward (towards the transmission) of the middle of the motor. Should
> > > I
> > > try and relocate the cross brace and clamshell so that it holds the
> > > middle of the motor?
> > >
> > > For reference in all cases the clamshell strap will attach between the
> > > motor terminal bolts
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Enova use to be US Electricar.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was thinking that the diff could be the center section from an IRS, such
as a late T bird or Corvette. The assembly could be mounted underneath, near
where the trans would go, solidly mounted to the chassis. Then a prop shaft
to the original diff.
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
"The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
~Calvin Coolidge~
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Any Ideas
I guess that would work but would mounting electric motors on a suspension
part lead to an early failure of the motors? The weight might be a problem
with
the vehicle ride.
Would this be done with a chain type drive? If so I could mount the motors
where the ICE was with a chain drive to each motor. The question then
would be
is chain the best way to do this.
Don
In a message dated 9/14/2006 9:01:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Shot in the dark here, but maybe put a motor on each axle of a
differential,
and take the power off the prop shaft?
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
"The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
~Calvin Coolidge~
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: Any Ideas
Any ideas on how to install two electric motors to one single drive
line.
All the reasonable priced AC motors I have found do not have a double
shaft or
are not the pancake type. An all wheel drive vehicle weight is not
acceptable.
Don
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks to everyone who responded, mostly off list, I
should have all the info I need to make a new conector
and hook it up correctly now. If anyone does have one
just sitting in the garage somewhere feel free to send
it over but otherwise I'll just make one.
Thanks again
--- evranger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Here's the pinout
>
>
> Grizzly Harness Wire Color Definitions
> Connector Pin # Wire Color Function Note
> 1 Red Controller Enable
> 2 Orange Throttle Pot
> 3 Yellow Throttle Pot
> 4 Blue Diagnostic + Leave unconnected
> 5 Green Chassis Ground Was Green/Yellow
> 6 Brown Low Power Mode
> 7 Grey Economy Mode Was green
> 8 Violet Diagnostic - Leave unconnected
> 9 White Contactor Enable
>
>
> and here's the part's you'll need to build a
> harness.
>
> you can get all the pieces you'll need from Digikey.
> I don't remember which
> is which but here are their part numbers for the
> contacts and
> housings:
>
> A1303-ND 9pin recept
> A1302-ND 9 pin plug
> A1331-ND cable clamps
>
> A1647-ND connector pin
> A1656-ND connector socket
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have never really looked at a rear IRS. If you have one prop shaft you
still have the same problem of how to connect two electric motors to one shaft.
What uses require a chain that can handle 400 to 500 horsepower? It would be
easier if I could find something already existing and modify it.
Don
In a message dated 9/14/2006 10:38:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I was thinking that the diff could be the center section from an IRS, such
as a late T bird or Corvette. The assembly could be mounted underneath, near
where the trans would go, solidly mounted to the chassis. Then a prop shaft
to the original diff.
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
"The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
~Calvin Coolidge~
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Any Ideas
>
>
>
> I guess that would work but would mounting electric motors on a suspension
> part lead to an early failure of the motors? The weight might be a problem
> with
> the vehicle ride.
>
> Would this be done with a chain type drive? If so I could mount the motors
> where the ICE was with a chain drive to each motor. The question then
> would be
> is chain the best way to do this.
>
> Don
>
> In a message dated 9/14/2006 9:01:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> Shot in the dark here, but maybe put a motor on each axle of a
> differential,
> and take the power off the prop shaft?
>
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> United States Air Force, Retired
>
> "The nation which forgets its defenders will be itself forgotten."
>
> ~Calvin Coolidge~
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:25 PM
> Subject: Any Ideas
>
>
>> Any ideas on how to install two electric motors to one single drive
>> line.
>> All the reasonable priced AC motors I have found do not have a double
>> shaft or
>> are not the pancake type. An all wheel drive vehicle weight is not
>> acceptable.
>>
>> Don
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They are still active Im a financial member but the newsletter hasn't been
sent for a few months.
David Sharpe
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, 15 September 2006 12:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Australian EV group
I have previously been a member of the AEVA but let it lapse because they
stopped sending newsletters. I have inquired since and got no response from
them. I am not sure if they are still active. Being in Australia I know of
most
of the available components suppliers and would be happy to refer people to
them.
Email: dilkes"iinet.net.au
Website: http:www.dilkesmotors.com
Regards, Rod Dilkes
Subject: Australian EV group
> Hey all...
>
> Plug In America has been getting several folks writing in from Australia
> since the Dateline piece (and a few before) wanting info on local EV
> resources. I've noticed several Aussies on this list- is there an EAA
> equivalent there at all or any specific place you'd like me to refer them
> to, besides the EAA and PIA sites?
>
> Thanks,
>
> chelsea
>
> Hi Chelsea;
Gees! How nice to see you here!I would like to say " Welcome Aboard"
and say thanks from an' Old EV Fart here!Hope ya stick around?? I follow
Plug in America and glad to see all the what's going on there, and the great
links. Seems it;'s time to get the Worlds' EVers together. A International
EAA? Why not? I'll bet there are people all over the world that would chime
in?There IS a Japan EV Club, or group thing there. China? Hello, China?
France, I know, England, there are a bunch of guys from UK on the List
already.
Maybe "Plug in the World" is next?
MY two Watts worth.
Bob, in the Colonies, CT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Heres putting that last remark to rest-Im from Melbourne & a member of AEVA
David
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Friday, 15 September 2006 7:27 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Australian EV group
At 08:45 AM 14/09/06 -0700, you wrote:
>There is the AEVA, the Australian Electric Vehicle Association,
>http://www.aeva.asn.au but please send them as much info and links as
possible.
>
>Roderick Wilde
>EV Parts, Inc.
G'day Rod, Chelsea and all
From what I gather the Sydney branch is starting to get active, but apart
from that the Australian EVA has been dormant for the best part of a
decade. This may have changed in the last few months, as my information on
the AEVA came via an ex-friend (as a result of what he did in becoming an
ex-employee). Apart from the AEVA though, there is pretty much a collection
of individuals doing things in isolation, and a few forklift/RE businesses
who are happy to do what they can to help an EV converter, but are not
focussed on EVs at all, and may not be in a position to give meaningful
advice.
I know this sounds negative and unhelpful, those who are in the AEVA
branches should jump in at this point and say what they're up to. (I'm
tipping you won't hear from anywhere other than Sydney).
Regards
[Technik] James
Isolated in Tasmania
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--- Begin Message ---
Fixing to order a controller and battery charger.
Going to have a 72 volt system (but may be going to a 120 volt system if the
motor I've got doesn't work out)
so..looking at a rusco SC18 80-120 volt charger
and curtis 1221C-7401 72-120 volt controller
will be ordering in a few days but want to check with list first to see if
anyone in the US has a used one they would like to get rid of before I go
out and order new ones (spread the wealth, so to speak :op )
contact offlist unless you want it bidded on (had bad luck bidding on ebay,
several items came up but they went for near new price and didn't want to
chance them being junk)
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--- Begin Message ---
Check out page 20 of this magazine. It has a good dyno performed on a Ford
Escape Hybrid showing what a 2.3L with Electric does
compared to the 3.0L V6. The graph shows the interesting concept of of the
high initial torque of the electric motor.
http://www.mustangguides.com/issue22/MustangMTG_Issue22.pdf#search=%22wgf-an%20axle%20code%22
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jude Anthony wrote:
...
Nice job, Victor. What auxiliary stuff is required? Just a
prescaler, shunt, and DC/DC like the E-Meter?
Jude Anthony
The shunt. No prescalers or DC-DC converters needed. It
directly measures traction battery voltage from about 8V to 500V DC.
I can describe the EVision (stand alone version) a bit.
The video showed just a display unit; additional hardware is the shunt
with conversion PCB on it (currently BRUSA one), and 3 remote buttons
(or rotary encoder). Power supply is house 12V. No isolation needed.
If you want [optional] efficiency figures, you need a speed sensor
(frequency in). Also if you want tire pressure monitoring,
granted you need pressure transmitters. Initially some software
functions will not be implemented (go get going), but it is field
upgradeable.
As far as the bar graph along the rim, it defaults to usable SOC
but you can assign any measured value to be displayed on it - drive
current, speed, voltage, efficiency, etc.
Same for the upper and lower digital displays. The unit currently
selected is lit next to the number being displayed. For the bar
you set it up and just remember. In the software the bar (all 25
segments) is 100% of the max set up value. For instance if
you set capacity to be 40Ah, then half of the bar graph (~12 segments)
means 20Ah left. If you set scaling to measure 300V pack, half of
display bar = 150V, etc. In case of battery current log scale is
implemented to make it meaningful.
On the demo there was peak detector function running (similar to
the audio equalizer display showing peak signal dot "frozen" for
some time). It can be turned off in the set up menu.
Other things it displays - half packs balance (mid point of the bar lit)
There is nothing special about digital display - it just displays
selected parameter. Upper and lower one work independently.
Defaults (upper/lower display):
volts/amps (amps - into or out of the battery)
kW / mph
Ah/kWh (in the pack)
Wh/mile / SOC (estimated)
Batt (or anything) Temp / 12V house voltage
miles (estimated left) / miles/kWh consumption
Again, you can mix these, picking which parameter you want to
be displayed on upper and lower displays. There are restrictions
though what can be displayed on upper or lower one.
For instance speed can be only on lower and voltage - on upper.
RS232 port is not isolated from the chassy, and it meant to be
used with a laptop supplied from 12V house power as well.
You have on-board memory to store last couple of hours
worth of data for off-line download/analysis. Data format -
plain ASCII comma delimited.
Peukert exponent is NOT implemented. It is working
directly with Ah (or Wh) in and out - you program actual
Ah available at the rate you use energy. This makes it
simpler. If you're off - re-edit avail. capacity.
There was much debate on usefulness or Peukert effect
setup. Provided, a person uses an EV consistently about
the same way, predicting stuff can be no less accurate than
if Peukert effect calc is implemented. This can be added in
software if decided, but for now purposely is not there.
Will see.
2 color flavors are planned - white-blue (shown) and green-red.
Frankly, I've never built green-red yet, so can't show a
photo. 7 segment displays are pin- and size compatible, so it's
universal hardware for both.
I don't know what other functions e-meter has (never owned one) but
from what I've heard EVision does more and so supposedly
should be a better alternative to an e-meter if reasonably priced.
I hate to brag, I'll rather let beta testers to give unbiased feed
back to the list when the system is ready (which is mainly software,
isn't is always? :-) ).
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Elia
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [egoscooters] My new ego just got stollen!!!!
Los Angeles. Im not too optimistic about its recovery. Its a classic black
with a mod on the deck for additional batteries. thanks
michael
On Sep 14, 2006, at 3:48 PM, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
Michael,
Sorry for your loss. Where are you located & some more details on the
vehicle. Color, decals? Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [egoscooters] My new ego just got stollen!!!!
> Ive owned it less than 1 month. Its my primary vehicle as I have vowed
not to start my
> Montero for the rest of my life.... not cool. And yes, it was locked,
taken from my front
> porch in broad daylight. now what. should of installed on of those trick
aerowhatt burglar
> alarms - too late. somebody please feel sorry for me. thanks
>
> the worst is there are no ego classics around to buy. help me out kevin!
:> btw thanks for
> the email kevin you rock!
>
> michael
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have never really looked at a rear IRS. If you have one prop shaft you
still have the same problem of how to connect two electric motors to one shaft.
What uses require a chain that can handle 400 to 500 horsepower? It would be
easier if I could find something already existing and modify it.
Don
Here is how Siemens does it - there is summation unit for two
5135 series motors, and other neat stuff.
http://www.automation.siemens.com/ld/bahnen/html_76/elfa/elfa-12.html
No hobby approach...
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey fellow aussies,
Yeah, here at sydney we have been working hard setting up webpages, electric
vehicle re-charging stations and also media coverage. I will endeavour to
work with the secretary and chariperson to produce a newsletter.
Cheers
On 15/09/06, James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
At 08:45 AM 14/09/06 -0700, you wrote:
>There is the AEVA, the Australian Electric Vehicle Association,
>http://www.aeva.asn.au but please send them as much info and links as
possible.
>
>Roderick Wilde
>EV Parts, Inc.
G'day Rod, Chelsea and all
From what I gather the Sydney branch is starting to get active, but apart
from that the Australian EVA has been dormant for the best part of a
decade. This may have changed in the last few months, as my information on
the AEVA came via an ex-friend (as a result of what he did in becoming an
ex-employee). Apart from the AEVA though, there is pretty much a
collection
of individuals doing things in isolation, and a few forklift/RE businesses
who are happy to do what they can to help an EV converter, but are not
focussed on EVs at all, and may not be in a position to give meaningful
advice.
I know this sounds negative and unhelpful, those who are in the AEVA
branches should jump in at this point and say what they're up to. (I'm
tipping you won't hear from anywhere other than Sydney).
Regards
[Technik] James
Isolated in Tasmania
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:19 PM 15/09/06 +1000, David Sharpe wrote:
Heres putting that last remark to rest-Im from Melbourne & a member of AEVA
David<snip>
(Earlier I wrote:) I know this sounds negative and unhelpful, those who
are in the AEVA
branches should jump in at this point and say what they're up to. (I'm
tipping you won't hear from anywhere other than Sydney).
G'day David
So what is Melbourne branch of AEVA up to? Just being there and a member of
AEVA doesn't put my last remark to rest. I'm a member of the IICA
(institute of instrumentation and control) and in Tassie, but apart from a
couple of table-top 'expo's' nothing is happening for IICA in Tassie.
Where and how often does the Victorian division of AEVA meet? Where can
'Joe Public' come and see your EVs?
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:57 AM 15/09/06 -0400, Don wrote:
I have never really looked at a rear IRS. If you have one prop shaft you
still have the same problem of how to connect two electric motors to
one shaft.
What uses require a chain that can handle 400 to 500 horsepower? It would be
easier if I could find something already existing and modify it.
G'day Don, and all
Funny this should come up now - I had delivered tonight a very dead BMW 528
(not sure of the year, early '80s I guess). Price was good (free). Reason
for getting it: the IRS assembly.
'Smoko' discussion at work at the moment is trikes, Stuart is a Harley
rider (founding member of local Harley Owners' Group) and has a prosthetic
foot so would like to make his Harley a trike. The techs (including me)
promptly ran away with the concept to an EV trike.
Options at this point are: 1) make a new center that takes two motors and
chain drives the axle center stubs, the motors and center mounted solid to
the frame (along the lines of Gone Postal). 2) Put a larger single motor
'slap' on top of the diff and chain drive the input shaft.
Industrial chain can be had to handle the horsepower, but it may not like
the speed. Dual motors can be connected to a common chain drive set, so
series/parallel switching two small motors may be doable too. I don't know
how well a pair of AC motors would 'play' together in that scenario.
I'll be chopping up the BMW over the weekend so I'll be able to get a close
look at the setup, I'll keep the part of the body that the IRS system
mounts to for the time being to maintain the geometry details.
I also had a chat with an engineering type at the transport department at
lunch time, it sounds feasable without being too much hassle. So the
'smoko' electric trike may become a reality yet.
Regards
[Technik] James
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