EV Digest 5914
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: will not go
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Safety question
by Jake Oshins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: will not go
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) "Sucking Amps" TV show pulled out of mothballs
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Fwd: Marin Reporter looking for Marin EV builders.
by Sherry Boschert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: distance formula
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Safety question
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Safety question
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Just started my first EV
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: article: Electric Harley
by Ralph <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: "Ultracapacitor-Battery" blows away Current Lithium-Ion Battery
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: IB9000 NiMH Re: Currently most powerful bats or caps available?
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: will not go
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) IB9000 NiMH Re: Currently most powerful bats or caps available?
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Anchorage Press EV Cover Story
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) They are coming out of the woodwork!
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Robot lawn mower
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Getting the garage electrical up to EV snuff
by "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: source for drive pulleys and belts
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Rendezvous, was Ultimate Tesla Promo
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: GPS as speed and distance log. 0 to 60 time measurement
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: will not go
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EVLN(Lithium-ion battery fires concern auto enthusiasts)-Long
by "Osmo S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On 25 Sep 2006 at 9:50, Calvin King wrote:
> When is it bad to own an electric car? When you are totally
> mechanically inept and no other Ev-ers live near and you car refuse to
> acknowledge you are in the driver's seat.
Not >bad< - but certainly frustrating.
One of the interesting things about EVs is that basic electrical knowledge
will get you pretty far. If you need it, your public library will have some
reading matter that should get you up to speed on basic circuits. Except
for the "black boxes" such as the motor controller and DC:DC converter,
conversion EVs are dead-basic DC wiring.
Mainly, you put on some rubber gloves if you are worried about the voltage,
grab a multimeter, and start tracing voltage. Is it there at the most
positive & negative pack terminals? At the breaker? At the connector to
the controller? At the controller input terminals? If no to any of the
above, look back from that point for the open connection, tripped breaker,
blown fuse, etc. your voltmeter is your friend!
If you have voltage to the controller, put the car in neutral and block the
wheels, and measure voltage at the controller output bus while someone
presses the pedal VERY gently. (Careful, you can overspeed the motor if
you punch the pedal while in neutral.) Nothing? Probably a dead
controller, or possibly a fuse inside it. You do see voltage? Then check
the motor connections. OK? Could be the brushes are kaputt (though they
usually show obvious symptoms before dying). Remove the brush inspection
ports (rubber plugs or a perforated metal ring) and look to see whether the
brushes (fat black rectangular rods) are solidly pressed against the
commutator (coppery metal thing) inside the motor.
Motor runs audibly, but car doesn't move? Check the clutch, transmission,
and shift linkage (or have your mechanic do so - this is straightforward
mechanic territory).
And that's about all there is to go wrong.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If I build a 288V pack and I want to put a breaker and/or an emergency
cutoff switch in the middle of it, what voltage do those need to be
rated for? Do they need to be able to break the whole pack voltage? Or
half of it? Or some other magic number?
Thanks,
Jake Oshins
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good advise from David. Don't forget about control wiring. Keyswitch?
Permissive switch sometimes on brake? Throttle pot box? Fuse in control
circuit? I find problems more often in small wires rather than in the big ones.
Jeff
David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On 25 Sep 2006 at 9:50, Calvin King wrote:
> When is it bad to own an electric car? When you are totally
> mechanically inept and no other Ev-ers live near and you car refuse to
> acknowledge you are in the driver's seat.
Not >bad< - but certainly frustrating.
One of the interesting things about EVs is that basic electrical knowledge
will get you pretty far. If you need it, your public library will have some
reading matter that should get you up to speed on basic circuits. Except
for the "black boxes" such as the motor controller and DC:DC converter,
conversion EVs are dead-basic DC wiring.
Mainly, you put on some rubber gloves if you are worried about the voltage,
grab a multimeter, and start tracing voltage. Is it there at the most
positive & negative pack terminals? At the breaker? At the connector to
the controller? At the controller input terminals? If no to any of the
above, look back from that point for the open connection, tripped breaker,
blown fuse, etc. your voltmeter is your friend!
If you have voltage to the controller, put the car in neutral and block the
wheels, and measure voltage at the controller output bus while someone
presses the pedal VERY gently. (Careful, you can overspeed the motor if
you punch the pedal while in neutral.) Nothing? Probably a dead
controller, or possibly a fuse inside it. You do see voltage? Then check
the motor connections. OK? Could be the brushes are kaputt (though they
usually show obvious symptoms before dying). Remove the brush inspection
ports (rubber plugs or a perforated metal ring) and look to see whether the
brushes (fat black rectangular rods) are solidly pressed against the
commutator (coppery metal thing) inside the motor.
Motor runs audibly, but car doesn't move? Check the clutch, transmission,
and shift linkage (or have your mechanic do so - this is straightforward
mechanic territory).
And that's about all there is to go wrong.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been getting some emails and phone calls. It seems that the Discovery
Channel is re-airing "Sucking Amps". It shows on their site that it will air
on cable TV here on the left coast at noon today.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone in Marin County, Calif. have an EV conversion
(including bikes/scooters)? Contact the reporter
below, not me.
--- politomatic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I work for the Marin IJ and I'm curious if there are
> any Marin people
> who are cooking up their own EVs - epecially
> bikes/scooters.
>
> The basic story idea is "People Who Aren't Waiting
> for Detroit or
> Anybody Else."
>
> If you know anybody in Marin building an EV or
> converting a vehicle,
> send me email at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> As the daily newspaper to the world's most
> self-obsessed county, we
> have to focus pretty much exclusively on Marin
> people.
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Hi, Jeremy
>
-snip-
> So, applying your formula: Range(miles) = 250(8.32)/(2500^.6) = 19 miles
>
> Now, this might be the actual range of my conversion, but I sure hope not.
-snip
> The ICE mileage of my car averaged about 45 ( with LRR tires), but the
> conversion will weigh a bit more, so I'll use 40 MPG:
>
> Range = 1.4 gal x 40 MPG = 56 miles.
Based on my experience using 8VGC batteries (15 of them) in a 3250lb
vehicle, I'd say your range will most likely be around 30 miles. Just a
guess.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The whole pack voltage, or higher.
When the contacts open, the switch will see the entire pack voltage,
regardless of where it is in the loop.
> If I build a 288V pack and I want to put a breaker and/or an emergency
> cutoff switch in the middle of it, what voltage do those need to be
> rated for? Do they need to be able to break the whole pack voltage? Or
> half of it? Or some other magic number?
>
> Thanks,
> Jake Oshins
>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Full voltage.
Jake Oshins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: If I build a 288V pack and I want to
put a breaker and/or an emergency
cutoff switch in the middle of it, what voltage do those need to be
rated for? Do they need to be able to break the whole pack voltage? Or
half of it? Or some other magic number?
Thanks,
Jake Oshins
---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Steve, welcome to the EV List. You will learn a great deal from this
wonderful group of humans. I thought I would share a letter I received from
a gentleman when I inquired about his aircraft starter/generator powered EV.
Since you are going with 72 volts you should expect much better performance
than he has. I just want you to be aware of the limitations of this type of
set up. Here is his letter to me:
Roderick Wilde
Hi Roderick,
Here is the specs.
Wilderness EV conversion Kit 2 (Please don't buy anything from them.)
1993 Ford Festiva weight apx 1700 lbs
Batteries: 48 volt system 8 @ 6 volt T-105 Trojan
Controller: Alltrax 4845 24-48vdc, 400 amps, 0-5K pot
Motor: 15 kw , 36-96volt 3000-8000 RPM ,and 400 amps continuous, shunt,
made by Jahco Corp , Model G29-6. It is a jet engine starter
motor.
The shunt field is taken care of with a jumper wire across a
couple of terminals on the motor.
On board battery charger 48 volt @10 amps. It takes about four hours when
battery is reduced by 20%
I have driven it five miles and it takes four hours with this charger.
On board battery charger 2 amps for the 12volt system. Charges this battery
very quickly. Works good.
Transmission: five speed manual
Top speed on level ground: 35 mph
1st gear up to 15 mph
2nd gear at 15-25 mph
3rd gear 25-35 mph
Distance is unknown at this time: I'm following break in procedures for the
batteries.
First twenty charges should not reduce capacity by 20%
The farthest I've gone is a five mile loop.
I think it will do a good ten-fifteen miles without damaging
the batteries.
Acceleration: Rev the motor and pop the clutch
15 mph in a half a block
25 mph in a block
35 mph in three blocks
I wait until it is really clear before pulling out onto the
main street. I don't want to get rear ended.
It will not do hills.
I have also installed a power brake vacuum booster off of an old Pontiac
2000. I have good braking.
I have made a 48 volt dc heater and installed where the heater coil was at.
It draws about 15 amps.
It should at least keep the frost off for the trip home from work. It is not
big enough to heat the car.
I have a problem with the car, it has very weak take off torque because of
the motor and trany. The car does fine on flat ground but it will not take
off from stop on any hill and I have adjusted every thing on the controller.
Also every once and a while even with reaving the motor the control can't
handle the instant amperage and the car just crawls to get going. Only
thing I know to do is get a better controller someday.
If I had to do it again, I would have went with 8 @ 12 volt for 96 volt
system with a bigger controller and charger.
I might just do it when the batteries go dead in three to four years. If I
don't sell it by then.
Six of the batteries are tied down with steel anchors and straps in a big
cooler in the passenger area. Two more batteries under the hood and one
more for the 12 volt system.The cooler is bolted through steel plates to the
floor. I also have a 115 volt fan in the cooler to exhaust the fumes when
charging. 115 volt charging cord in gas filler door. All wires run through
the bottom of the cooler through the hole where the fuel pump use to be and
under the car. BTW total cost with donor car and parts $3300
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: Just started my first EV
I just started pulling the exhaust and fuel system out of my '87
cabriolet yesterday. My plans are to make it simple to start out with.
72V with a shunt motor and a modified contactor controller. I'm going
to split the pack into two so I can start without much of a jerk and
have a lower idle rpm at lights (if I decide to keep it on).
My needs are a 20 mile range max, usually only 6 miles. 45 mph is the
fastest I'll need to go.
I've waited too long to start this project, but I am going now!
Steve Paschke
**************************************************************
This message, including any attachments, contains 'confidential'
information intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is
protected by law. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact
sender immediately by reply e-mail and destroy all copies. You are hereby
notified that any disclosure, copying, or distribution of this message, or
the taking of any action based on it, is strictly prohibited.
TIAA-CREF
**************************************************************
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Definately not it!
The Harley was orange, for starters. I got the impression that it was a one-off
as an experiment that got out into the public.
-Ralph
On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 09:59:51 -0700 (PDT)
lyle sloan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> No, Ralph knew that I wasnt talking about Karl Vogel's
> Electracruiser and before it comes up Myers motors'
> cycle. But, thank you.
>
> --- Mike Willmon wrote:
>
> > isn't it this one?
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/392
> >
>
> Ralph wrote:
> No- What I found interesting was that Harley had
> actually built such a
> prototype! I'm not a Harley fan so despite it being
> electric, I gave it
> only passing interest.
>
> -Ralph
>
>
> On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 00:58:52 -0700 (PDT)
> lyle sloan wrote:
>
> > Do you have anymore info on this bike and perhaps a
> > photo?
> >
> > Lyle
> > --- Ralph wrote:
> >
> > > Harley actually built an electric cycle back in
> the
> > > 70s. I saw one (the same one) at the Farmington,
> MN
> > > antique motorbike rally and then later the same
> year
> > > at the Davenport antique rally- about 8 years ago
> or
> > > so.
> > >
> > > -Ralph
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> That thing shorts.. and well Dynamite has less stored energy...
As shown, the device has 2320 caps in parallel for 31F, so each cap was
around .013F. If one cap shorted, would there be a lot of danger, or
would that one cap just piff out its own small amount of energy and
leave the other 2319 running?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gee, maybe you should check your facts before posting..
Dmitri Hurik wrote:
Well at $5 a piece I get $462 per kwh for these.
Yellowtops 24ah? Whaat? From the numbers I've seen they are about 50ah
at 1 hour rate.
If they are $160, then I get $266 per kwh for YTs.
And these NIMH cells typically don't last longer than 500 cycles, which
is not really any longer than lead acid. So your NIMH will cost about
twice as much as lead acid. Is it worth the weight savings, but double
price? Your call.
And competitive with A123? I say no. Bare IB9000 cells you say are $5 a
piece so $462/kwh. You can get A123 cells on eBay for $1350 per kwh in
DeWalt packs right now. That is not 3-4, more like 2-3 times the cost.
Then, say you actually buy these A123 cells in bulk without those DeWalt
packs, you might have $1000/kwh or less. And then, the IB9000 cells will
last about 500 cycles, where the A123 cells will easily last 2000 cycles
according to a123, and should even last 3000+ cycles, are lighter and
way more powerful(30C cont and 80C long pulse, 100C short pulse). So the
A123 cells actually come out cheaper over their lifetime. And keep in
mind these are D size NiMH cells, which are usually way less powerful
than the Sub-C cells per kg. If you are smart, you should pick A123
instead. No point at all in these NiMHs. And charging NiMH isn't going
to be any easier. They need a different charging algorithm, unlike the
CC/CV of Li-ion and lead acid.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Murray"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 1:42 AM
Subject: IB9000 NiMH Re: Currently most powerful bats or caps available?
Intellect has a new 9Ah NiMH D-cell battery.
I haven't seen them mentioned on the list.
They can handle 10C discharge (90amps), and 2C (18amp) charge rates,
weight is 175g. The key feature is the price, only $5-6 ea!
This basically makes them competitive to the lithium A123 M1 cells at
much less cost. The M1's are 70g for 2.3Ah at 3.3V, so 280g (4 cells)
for 9Ah, the IB9000 weighs 525g for 3-cells at 3.6v, so the M1's are
roughly half the weight, but 3-4 times the cost.
Compare to a Optima Yellow Top, that is 24Ah C/1, and you guys tell me
not to go more than 50% dod, so really just 12Ah, and weigh 20Kg,
price is about $160.
20 cells of IB9000 would be 18Ah, weigh 3.5Kg, and cost $120.
That is 1/5th the weight and even less cost!
I will be testing, and will probably be importing some quantity of them
if they perform as advertised.
Jack
Dmitri Hurik wrote:
Super caps will Not give 20 miles.
Pretty much the most powerful batteries would be www.a123systems.com
already released and other high power lithium-polymer used in RC
cars. Should get over 1000 HP, I suppose 2000 HP or more is possible
with increased battery weight.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 4:13 PM
Subject: Currently most powerful bats or caps available?
Any ultra or super caps available that can get ~20+ miles of range?
What kind of power output?
How about on the battery front?
How much hp can be had from a 348V pack with currently available
energy storage devices?
Anyone have any inside info on any products that are on the verge of
actually being released?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I usually call a local electrician when i have any occasional problems and
it is usually something simple. Where are you located and what kind of EV do
you drive for the lists sake? Mike young
----- Original Message -----
From: "Calvin King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: will not go
When is it bad to own an electric car? When you are totally mechanically
inept and no other Ev-ers live near and you car refuse to acknowledge you
are in the driver's seat.
Drove home Friday evening, set the car to charge. unplugged Saturday
morning. Equalized charged Saturday afternoon. Got in the car Sunday
morning to drive to church. Turned the key. The seatbelt alarm sounded,
radio came on. Put the car in gear, accelerated and nothing. This
Monday morning still nothing. Metered the few things I know and partly
understand, they all seem to be as should be. I do not know where to go
beyond the absolutely obvious and that is only those things that are
obvious to me. I had been driving absolutely trouble free up to the time
I parked the car. Any suggestions?
Calvin King
108 volt '81 Jet Electrica
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Typically whoever makes a good sub-c is not a candidate for making a
good D cell. Rechargable D cells are a long forgotten cell type. So
serious testing is the only way you'll know anything.
In order to parallel nimh you must be able to separate the strings
occasionally for equalizing. So making that sub for a YT is going to
be fun.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Intellect makes Sub-C batteries for R/C which are not junk, so the
> D-cell form factor should work as advertised.
> I'd like to build some 12v packs in a YT form-factor with integrated
BMS
> that can be charged using existing lead-acid chargers.
>
> Jack
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > They sound great. I wonder if they are like the ones that Ed Ang uses.
> > Do you have a picture of the cell?
> >
> > The 50% rule of thumb is not for nicad/nimh, mostly for lead acid. of
> > course lowering the dod always makes any chemistry last longer. But
> > it's not a requirement with nicad/nimh.
> >
> > Let us know what else you learn. My buddy is interested in
> > replacements for yellow tops as well and these could be useful. Many D
> > cells are junk though. So testing is very important to validate the
> > specs.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jack Murray <ev@> wrote:
> >
> >>Intellect has a new 9Ah NiMH D-cell battery.
> >>I haven't seen them mentioned on the list.
> >>
> >>They can handle 10C discharge (90amps), and 2C (18amp) charge rates,
> >>weight is 175g. The key feature is the price, only $5-6 ea!
> >>
> >>This basically makes them competitive to the lithium A123 M1 cells at
> >>much less cost. The M1's are 70g for 2.3Ah at 3.3V, so 280g (4
cells)
> >>for 9Ah, the IB9000 weighs 525g for 3-cells at 3.6v, so the M1's are
> >>roughly half the weight, but 3-4 times the cost.
> >>
> >>Compare to a Optima Yellow Top, that is 24Ah C/1, and you guys
tell me
> >>not to go more than 50% dod, so really just 12Ah, and weigh 20Kg,
price
> >>is about $160.
> >>20 cells of IB9000 would be 18Ah, weigh 3.5Kg, and cost $120.
> >>That is 1/5th the weight and even less cost!
> >>
> >>I will be testing, and will probably be importing some quantity of
them
> >>if they perform as advertised.
> >>
> >>Jack
> >>
> >>Dmitri Hurik wrote:
> >>
> >>>Super caps will Not give 20 miles.
> >>>
> >>>Pretty much the most powerful batteries would be www.a123systems.com
> >>>already released and other high power lithium-polymer used in RC
> >>
> > cars.
> >
> >>>Should get over 1000 HP, I suppose 2000 HP or more is possible with
> >>>increased battery weight.
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Stotts" <stotts.ryan@>
> >>>To: "EVDL" <ev@>
> >>>Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 4:13 PM
> >>>Subject: Currently most powerful bats or caps available?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Any ultra or super caps available that can get ~20+ miles of range?
> >>>>What kind of power output?
> >>>>
> >>>>How about on the battery front?
> >>>>
> >>>>How much hp can be had from a 348V pack with currently available
> >>>>energy storage devices?
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyone have any inside info on any products that are on the verge of
> >>>>actually being released?
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Excellent article in one of Alaska's weekly papers. Monica Bradubury spent a
lot of time on this article, stopped by my office several times, e-mailed a few
times, called a couple times, saw the movie WKtEC, and got input from Ron
Freund,John Wayland and some locals whoe are anticipating an EV project; all I
had to do was pose for the pics ;-)
Enjoy
http://www.anchoragepress.com/archives-2006/coverstoryvol15ed38.shtml
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been getting more responses from the TV show and I thought I would
share this one with you folks.
Roderick Wilde
Hi my name is James and I love your show.. Got a question, why don't you
guys use transformers or inducers and the such.... you can amplify your
voltage and amperage on both dc and ac level, thus getting rid of the
batteries... I tried and tested it..seems to work on a low budget.. But
haven't tested it with high dollar transformers and transducer, and other
power increasing options. Guys its out there don't think the power companies
don't know about it, it can be done. And we know all the rules to the
perpetual motion law.. If it was impossible then why make a law? There isn't
a person can't fly law... Anyway try the transformers and inducers,
transducers and other componets.. And do me a favor, if you do decide to use
this idea.. can i get some credit and some tickets to come and see u guys
and help..
thx james
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have had a Robomower for over 5 years for my yard of about 1/2 acre
between the front and back. I'm allergic to grass. I love it. I think
it reports 400 hours on it.
Unfortunately it has broken down a number of times in the past. I've
had it open a lot and am skilled in repairing them. Despite being such
an expensive mower, the parts are remarkably cheap. The plastic motor
carrier was the worst, melting on me a couple of times.
I've been through a couple of sets of tires too. I came up with a new
plan after the new set wore out, cutting up a set of bicycle tires and
screwing them onto the wheel. Gets great traction! Traction has been
an issue.
The bumper is a very imperfect sensor. On one hand, I have seen it run
into a thin weed it could easily have run over and detect it and back
up, leaving a yard of weeds neatly mowed around! On the other hand,
I've also seen it hit a fence or tree where it distributed the force
evenly, failing to indent the bumper sensor enough to make the 2
internal wire screens touch each other and the tires start spinning. It
can continue like this for a couple of minutes before the code times out
and it reverses.
I never saw a problem with it finding a way to mow the finer details in
the corners (but code revisions vary here).
In fact I have trouble here. It will run into a problematic feature
like a tree root, tree, or fence, eventually back up, turn slightly, and
go right back into it. The algorithm is designed to explore obstacles
in an attempt to mow the area around it.
It does not lose any settings if you leave the battery out. I do not
use the on-board charger, period. It is far too slow and requires me to
have the power transformer with the mower. I bought the "large yard"
kit with a second battery, second perimeter switch, more wire & pegs,
and this neat-o 3 amp external fast charger. I can leave the mower on
the porch and take the battery inside for charging. With 2 batts I'll
just swap them out and put the other one in the mower.
Those are the most common type of sealed UPS battery in existance. They
are fairly cheap to replace. I have been through several over the
years. They are commonly rated at 17 ah, I bought a set rated for 20 ah
recently. I am unsure if they're actually better or if they just
pencilled in a new number, Chinese battery ratings are kind of foggy.
Well, I can say they do seem to last a really long time.
BTW, the part where it says "Enter Service Code"? It's 12321. There
are a lot of useful features you need in there.
Danny
Lee Hart wrote:
Steve Clunn's post on his EV lawn mower prompted me to mention a new
EV at my place. I got a Friendly Robotics RL850 RoboMower.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here comes the first of a barrage of questions I have for you guys.
Hope you can put up with me over the next few weeks.
We have an electrician coming over to do some work, and I want him to
look over my new truck and put in a circuit for her while he's here.
I made a list of things for my wife to ask him and I wanted your input
on them (both to refine the questions and to get some answers about
things he's likely to not know from experience). Without further ado,
here's the list as I sent it to my wife:
1) Can he please put in a new circuit for the EV? I only need a 30A
breaker right now (charger maxes out at 25A), but someday I'll
probably want it to drive a 50A connection. Would it make sense to
put in a 60A breaker now? Will I be able to convert to 220 at some
point in the future? Do I want to?
If you could have him call me and explain some of this it would be great.
2) Off that circuit, can he install a regular three-prong outlet in
the garage?
3) Does that outlet need to be a GFI outlet just in case? I want
something that will trip out if the connection somehow gets grounded.
4) Can he suggest any safety features or better ways of dealing with
the EV so that we don't worry about Ellie wandering in there on her
own and hurting herself? Plus any other suggestions or ideas.
As always, thanks in advance for any helpful ideas and comments y'all have. :)
Matt
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I'm sorry to say no.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Philippe Borges" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: source for drive pulleys and belts
> Philippe,
>
> Is your schematic available to the public?
>
> Mike
>
> (post trimmed yet again!)
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Not on this pack, my lithium BMS is 100% analog strong component no
> > microcontroller or computer freezing risk ;^)
> >
> > The notebook is for alltrax
> >
> > cordialement,
> > Philippe
> >
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some fast translated details:
this is a real film made by Mister lelouch well known french film maker.
he was the mercedes 's driver and say he decided to use at studio a ferrari
sound to make this more "race like "
Mercedes was chosen because of his very good suspension (hydrolic) that make
the image very stable.
Max speed was 200km/h (130mph)
in fact this is a love story, the story of a men which decide to take all
risk to be at time at his first meeting with girl friend...
It was decided the night before being filmed, at 5 o'clock (not a lot of
cars on the road)
actual Parisian's drivers are crazy for sure but not so much :^)
A better imho Tesla promo would be a side by side car race ...same circuit,
2 slots, two cars, only one winner at race end line :^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Rendezvous, was Ultimate Tesla Promo
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > The only version I found was all in French on Google. Appears to be a
> > Mercedes sedan.
> >
> > Mike
>
> Yup - that's the one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwKhd_KzwHA
> (maybe Phillipe can review it). Sorry if this thread is OT, but I
> really hoped a Tesla could do this - unfortunately, it also sounds
> like an illegal and unsafe way to drive in a city (especially S.F.
> like I suggested).
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is a bit like measuring shaft diameter to the nearest 1/100th using
a wooden yardstick.
Why not use a racing timer?
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
Can a GPS be used to give 0 to 60 times? If so it could also be used to log
altitude, distance etc. for purposes of range calculation. Hell if you
could get it to talk to your emeter & a few other sensors like temperature
you could get some real good data to figure energy usage. Real range
estimate before you go on your trip. Lawrence Rhodes.......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Calvin, you are near Atlanta, correct? If you don't get it running by this
weekend, perhaps I could come over. I'm in Rincon, near Savannah. Please let
me know.
I'm no expert, but have a fair bit of experience with your setup from my escort
days.
Some initial things to try:
1) does it have a charger interlock relay to keep the contactor from pulling in
when the charger is plugged in? Try disconnecting it and see if it might have
been stuck.
2) verify with a voltmeter that the pack voltage is correct.
3) did you hear the main contactor pull in? If not, try again, and check with
a voltmeter to see if there is any voltage between the controller side terminal
and the battery negative lead. If there is, then it closed properly. If there
is not, it has not pulled in.
4) check the voltage of your auxilliary 12V battery to be sure it isn't dead,
and too low to pull in the contactor.
David Brandt
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David,
I´ve always enjoyed reading Cliff´s messages. He treats other members
on this list with respect. I´m sure you have useful information to
share also, but I hope you would do it in a less patrionizing and
agressive manner.
Osmo
David Ankers kirjoitti 25.9.2006 kello 17.45:
I'm sorry you chose to run away from the debate especially without
addressing any of the issues but instead did the equivalent of
sticking your
fingers in your ears and singing "I'm can't hear you", is this a
mature
response?
Now, for the record and for the list - as you're not listening ;-),
I posted
what are called OPINIONS, sorry that you don't like them but I have
that
right. You responded to my own personal OPINIONS with a highly
inflammatory
mail (which you stated yourself) and raised tired old fallacies.
You acted
like a dick and I called you on it, your first reply to my OPINIONS
was an
inelegant attempt at a put down and if you were honest with
yourself you
would admit that, although by running away you obviously know you
are not on
a sure footing.
You might not know Kokam have had problems with the large packs, and
something else you don't know: my brother was the sole importer for
Kokams
in the UK for over a year and they had scaling problems then.
I'm above your ad hominem attacks so let's clarify some real points:
My comment about Kokam claiming 500 cycles: I refer to the fact
that they
make this claim when it is false, has been proven false by independent
testers and that is with smaller packs. 800 cycles? BWWaaahhh,
sure, and I
also have a rather nice bridge for sale. With batteries, all
manufactures
make claims, many outrageous and Kokam have a record of this, they
were the
first manufacture to start using capacity rating with a discharge
current of
0.2c while most other manufactures at the time used 1C, sneaky. Who
initially denied LiPo cells had a shelf life? Why, that would be
Kokam.
I believe there is always things to learn from everybody and have
found this
to be the case throughout my life, in fact everyone I've met I have
learnt
something from, or at least I can not thing of anyone I have not
learnt
anything from. Take Cor's excellent response, he quoted verifiable
facts and
simply put the thread to rest, of course, until you had your tantrum.
One thing I find absolutely stunning is your attempt to have the
last word,
simply amazing. Anyone with a rational mind knows exactly what you
are up
to; you see, rational people that truly believe that "life's too
short"
would simply deleted the mail and block the sender. You on the
other hand
waste your "too short life" sending a response! Unbelievable.
Further, I've
seen you pull the exact same stunt with others on this list and had 2
private emails after your first outburst stating that you are
"arrogant
without any cause to be" and "not just a dick, an elitist dick" so it
appears you have upset others as well.
Your behaviour is transparent and from it, I can be certain you
will read
this mail; ironically though you have prevented yourself from even
replying,
oh my.
Cliff, be especially careful when talking about items you have a
vested
interest in, such as being sponsored - firstly you must be aware
that you
can easily come across as a bought and paid for shill out to
mislead and
suppress other peoples OPINIONS that don't match what you are
trying to
promote. Secondly, what you do on this public list also reflects on
the
company that sponsors you. Now, go and think about how badly you have
handled this, in front of a lot of the EV community and how that
reflects on
Kokam and their choice to be represented by you. You can't learn
anything
from me? You just did ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of ProEV
Sent: Monday, 25 September 2006 10:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EVLN(Lithium-ion battery fires concern auto
enthusiasts)-Long
David,
I am on the EV list to learn from other's experiences and knowledge
and to
share my experience and knowledge. It is often a fun and educational
experience.
But I do not enjoy being called 'a dick'. Life is too short. It is
also
against the list charter
Luckily there is a quick technological fix. I just added your name
to my
blocked list.
I often hesitate to do this because there are some abrasive
personalities on
the list who do contribute excellent information. Blocking them
cuts me off
from things I would like to learn.
In your case, I feel there is little danger of that. Statements
like < This
has been debunked as a false analogy a long time ago.> does not
tell me
anything except that you were convinced by someone's argument. It
does not
help me learn anything.
You pose vague argumentative statements, < Kokam still have the same
problems with larger packs failing? > which seem designed to put
Kokam in
the position of "When did they stop beating their wives". For the
record, I
have not heard anything about any Kokam packs failing despite
exchanging
information with a lot of Kokam users. ProEV posts our experiences
in public
to help others learn from our mistakes. We have had cells fail
because we
have chosen to run the cells outside of what is recommended.
Specifically our 70 amp-hr cells were rate for 5 C (350 amps)
continuously
but on the track, we would run them closer to their peak rating
(700 amps).
Kokam had no experience under these conditions but suggested that
if we kept
the cell below 60 degree Celsius, we might just lose some cycle
life. Our
cooling scheme was inadequate and many cells went over 70 degree
Celsius. We
have learned that Kokam is right. High heat can kill a cell.
We have also shorted cells and killed cells by over-discharging
them but not
on purpose.
Other of your statements are just poorly written and hard to
understand
<Kokam claims a lot and always has, they still 500 cycles pack
life! > . I
think you mean that the latest Kokam cells last for only 500
cycles . This
would be wrong. The new cells ( called High Power and Ultra High
Power ) are
conservatively rated for over 800 cycles.
http://www.kokam.com/english/product/kokam_Lipo_01.html has a graph
of the
100% discharge test at over 1,400 cycles. (Everyone should keep in
mind that
no manufacture has given us a solid answer of calendar life since
each new
cell formulation has not been around long enough for anything but
simulated
calendar life testing, so cycle life might not be our biggest
concern.)
Good bye, David.
If anyone else has questions about David's arguments that I did not
address,
please feel free to ask them.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
--- End Message ---
