EV Digest 5956
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Build EV For Someone Else
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Battery boxes
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Weight and range
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
by "Michael Trefry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Weight and range
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: ebay 270034464771
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Build EV For Someone Else
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: ebay 270034464771
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Why electric car companies should be focused on this one ideal EV market:
Hawaii
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
by "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Curtis Controller 1221C on Ebay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: question to victor
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Battery life
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: ebay 270034464771
by Nick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) series wound motor
by "Hofer Tobias" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) teeny gas-electric turbine
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) devc.org
by "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) China Knock-offs (Re: "Strange EV on eBay" round 3)
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Zilla controls backordered? - why not order and start building?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: Blue Xebra on Ebay
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) PFC-30 Question, Standard practice or sacrilege?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Zilla controls backordered? - why not order and start building?
by "Michael Trefry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: series wound motor
by Ralph <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: PFC-30 Question, Standard practice or sacrilege?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) AW: series wound motor
by "Hofer Tobias" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I'll give you my advice, having thought through a similiar business.
I would not suggest you try to be Tesla better than Tesla. They can
sell $100K cars because they are silicon valley high-media high-dollar
profile, you are not going to compete with that, and they are way ahead
of you.
You need to look forward and anticipate the next thing, not the current
thing. Tesla has said they will have a 4-passenger, maybe 4-door car
"later". Beat them to later. Offer something the others don't.
Maybe a soccer mom mini-van, or a "cross-over" wagon/suv.
Not sexy is it? A successful business is about competition and
profitability.
Jack
Curtis Muhlestein wrote:
Cor van de Water,
I have someone for the CFO position. I am also looking for a Marketing
Director.
Jerry Dycus,
The design that we have settled on is:
http://www.ifgonline.com/Phantom6/
David Dymaxion,
Thanks for your comments and support.
Once we complete the team then we will be finishing the business plan that
we have started. We feel it is important to build the team first and then
with the team in place, continue to develop the business.
There are many reasons why I wanted to keep this quite for as long as I
could, but after asking various direct question and really no direct
answers, I thought that it was time to share my idea with you.
Because of the design that we have selected, we want it to perform
comparably, using lead acid batteries. We are looking forward to all the
new developments such as
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/09/brown_universit.html .
Curtis Muhlestein
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Death to All Spammers
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 9:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Build EV For Someone Else
Maybe the following will give you moiré information to what I am
trying to
do. I have already contacted the EV'ers here in Northern Utah.
For more than 26 years I have wanted to build an EV. I have been
going to
GreenCarCogress.com and other web sites everyday for the past 18
months. It
is very clear to me that with the current advancements in technology
that it
is time to build.
I own the domain, DriveElectric.net (currently not up) and the DBA,
(doing
business as) Drive Electric here in Utah. I am looking to put
together a
team to build and sell EV's. If Tesla Motors, Universal Electric
Vehicle
Inc., Mullen Motor Company and Phoenix Motorcars can do it, so can I.
I have a BS in computer science and associate degree in automotive
service,
both degrees from Weber State. I currently am working as a senior
software
engineer, but I have also designed, drafted and built my own 2
story, 3,700
sq. ft. home.
We are looking for a COO to join our team and be a part of the start-up
process. If you know anyone who would be interested, please have
them send
me their resume.
Curtis Muhlestein
President & CEO
Drive Electric
I glad you gave us "moiré" information and made your intentions clear.
Now you'll have more input that you care to read. What market are
you aiming for, and what kind of investment funds do you have access
to? The Tesla and X-1 cover the expensive sports car end, and the
Xebra the cheap underpowered Chinese junk section. What do you want to
sell?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:11 PM 10/2/2006, you wrote:
Ahh but the kit and the batteries are only a portion of the costs involved.
I've got the car ($4600) and some mechanical things to do, such stiffen the
rear suspension, some minor restoration tasks, install a heater, this is the
North East after all,
Things add up quickly :)
Ok, yes, there is the cost of the donor. But the upgraded suspension
is INCLUDED in the Voltsporsche KIt.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just had to comment on the bicycle thing. I used to have an S-10 blazer
and a VW Rabbit EV in Connecticut. The range on the S-10 Blazer which was a
brick aero wise was a good solid 25 miles at 65mph or more with 8 volt
batteries then plug in and go home 25 miles the other way.
Then my situation changed and I took the train which was 4 miles way. So I
started to ride my bike everyday and the EVs sat. We walked to the store and
the EVs sat. My wife had a commute that was too long for the Blazer so we sold
the blazer. Then I started riding to the station that was 10 miles away which
was actually beyond the old 72 volt worn out batteries VW Rabbit and then we
sold the VW.
Now I'm in North Texas and bicyling is a bad idea even for a seasoned
commuter like myself so back to my EV. I did almost 12k miles in 2003 on my
bike but now I'm in an old rusted out S-15 pickup that'll get me a good 20-25
miles one 45-55mph roads with too many stops along the way. Sometimes it cuts
it close in the winter but it works out well. The batteries have lasted 2 years
so far and still look good doing from 75% - 80% discharges everyday and it sits
at work uncharged.
I wish I had a 914 with 120 volts of golf cart batteries and came really
close to getting one. A smaller more aero vehicle that is lighter with the same
amount of batteries! *drool* I'd be able to go 2 maybe three days without
charging or do side trips galore. Now I'm waiting for that easter bunny to
bring me a nice FreedomEV which is why I didn't go for the 914. With it's light
weight and smaller footprint and simpler operation I'm hopefully I'll have
VoltsPorsche EV performance and Range without the 30 year old too small for me
vehicle.
Mark Hastings
That's nice for you. But if I lived in that dense a community, I think I'd
just buy a bicycle.
But if the "reality" of range is truly around 15 miles, then popular
statement that EVs would be useful to 95% of the population is a load of
dung.
15 miles wouldn't get me to the nearest shopping center.
Man, I wish somebody would come back and say "No, you really can get 50
miles on a charge without reducing the lifetime of your batteries".
That was really my minimum number. Without that, I've just wasted $4,600 and
many, many hours of research which has apparently lied to me about range,
and not by just a little, but by over 500%!!!
Sorry, about the rant.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, that's still terrible.
What I was really looking for something to take me into the city when I have
an onsite consulting gig.
Storrs to Hartford is 28 miles. 56 round trip. I was under the impression
that the 914 conversion based on the kits offered by both evparts.com and
electroauto.com would provide this for me with plenty to spare.
Perhaps I'm overreacting. But the idea of this car being a utilitarian daily
driver has just been shoved aside to the idea of it being just a really
expensive tech toy.
Maybe I'll make it a drag car. If I can't make a practical use for it, I
might as well have fun with it.
Sorry again for the rant. I'm just frustrated.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 12:50 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
David does not mean "just 15 miles range", he means 15 miles radius - there
and back. 15 miles x 2 = 30 miles range.
There are various EV web sites for calculating your range. Do this before
proceeding with your conversion. I did it numerous times and numerous ways
and came out with 40km range to 80% DOD. The estimate worked out to be
pretty accurate.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Michael Trefry
Sent: October 3, 2006 9:16 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
15 miles? That's terrible!
I work from home now, but before that, 15 miles would not have even got me
to work.
No matter how much people insist that 95% of daily driving is within 5-10
miles, a car with a range of less than 50 miles on a charge is useless to
the average American. Most people can't plan their day around whether they
can make it to work, stop at the grocery store on the way home, maybe go out
to dinner or for a drink with some friends after work, all on a single
charge.
True, the overpromising of range probably has and will undoubtedly harm the
EV world. But the bottom line is that the truth about range will harm the EV
world.
Here I am, looking at websites that promise 80-100 miles (some even say 120)
for my 914 conversion, even assuming that that is exaggerated by 25% or so,
I should be able to 60-80 miles. If the reality is that I won't be able to
take this baby more than 15 miles on a daily basis, why should I bother with
the expense?
It's 12 miles into town for me. If I can't make it back without asking
somebody to plug in and leech off of their power (while waiting up to 4
hours to get an 80% charge) then it's useless. I should put my money into
fixing up the 35 year old ICE.
Please somebody tell me that this is not reality.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden (Akron OH USA)
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:53 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
On 3 Oct 2006 at 3:50, Doug Weathers wrote:
> 1) If your vehicle has 30% of its total weight in batteries, it will
> have a range of about 60 miles.
I would say this is true only under ideal conditions - a highly optimized
glider, brand new batteries, and high ambient temperatures. Realistically,
experience shows that a car with 30% mass in lead will give you about a 40
mile range.
And that is with a typical glider. One with a bit of brake drag, too much
toe, underinflated or sticky tires, automatic transmission, poor
aerodynamics, etc. can easily knock that down to around 25-35 miles. Partly
depreciated batteries can cost you 20-50% of your range. Winter
temperatures in the northern states can easily rob you of 50% unless you
have good battery insulation or heat the batteries.
And don't forget the 80% rule - don't exceed 80% of your drop-dead range on
a daily basis if you want decent battery life.
Don't get me wrong, I'm an EV proponent, but overpromising range has hurt
the EV world terribly in the past. The somewhat uncomfortable bottom line
is that a car with 30% battery weight shouldn't be asked to give more than
15 miles of autonomy (the radius it can venture from its charger).
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike
You can add more range with batteries with larger batteries or more
batteries there are always options. If you driving by yourself and not carrying
much
of any other weight I would just maximize your battery capacity.
If you can get any opportunity charging that really changing things. The
charging is so fast when your doing a bulk charge. It is the toping off the
pack
that takes a long time.
Don
In a message dated 10/3/2006 10:25:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
That's nice for you. But if I lived in that dense a community, I think I'd
just buy a bicycle.
But if the "reality" of range is truly around 15 miles, then popular
statement that EVs would be useful to 95% of the population is a load of
dung.
15 miles wouldn't get me to the nearest shopping center.
Man, I wish somebody would come back and say "No, you really can get 50
miles on a charge without reducing the lifetime of your batteries".
That was really my minimum number. Without that, I've just wasted $4,600 and
many, many hours of research which has apparently lied to me about range,
and not by just a little, but by over 500%!!!
Sorry, about the rant.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 12:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Weight and range
In a message dated 10/3/2006 10:17:47 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
No matter how much people insist that 95% of daily driving is within 5-10
miles, a car with a range of less than 50 miles on a charge is useless to
the average American. Most people can't plan their day around whether they
can make it to work, stop at the grocery store on the way home, maybe go
out
to dinner or for a drink with some friends after work, all on a single
charge.>>>>
I don't know....
A lot depends on where you live. The parts of Colorado Springs that I
frequent lie within a ten mile "universe."
My just-on-the-street EV motorcycle trike has a 35 mile range. I do own a
car as well - have put 20 miles on it in the last 12 days! If I had a
"real"
EV (with protection from the weather/cold) with a 50 mile range, I could
imaging selling the car and RENTING one from one of the two car rental
places a
few blocks from my home if I had a longer trip to take. I'm considering
that
plan as part of retirement budgeting (along with a photovoltaic array on
the
roof!).
Matt Parkhouse
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hmm, something seems odd to me. I didn't think a 120V curtis would work
at 48V, I thought the low voltage cutout would stop it from functioning.
> wish this controller didn't look damaged or I'd use the BO since the 11
> bids haven't hit the reserve yet...
>
> a reserve on an "as is" auction? too scary for me :o(
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Offer something the others don't.
> Maybe a soccer mom mini-van, or a "cross-over" wagon/suv.
> Not sexy is it? A successful business is about competition and
> profitability.
Ok, haw about this? Since the reality of EV's is they are limited in capacity
(range or payload,
either will negatively affect the other), why not target something EVs do well.
For every soccer
mom/dad running around in a mini-van, there's another family member commuting
to work, probably by
themselves. Why not create an affordable commuter vehicle that would get used 5
days a week, 50
weeks a year. A light weight two seater would be the easiest vehicle to build
for range. Build it
to perform like a small economy car, not a Corvette, and you can save on parts
cost. It will never
go to the dragstrip, just needs to get up to highway speeds. A two car family
could easily get by
with an ICE mini-van and an EV commuter.
If you build an $80k car, it might as well be $100k, and you will be competing
with the Tesla. And
I bet you a two seater can get better range than their four seater when it
comes out. You won't be
competing directly with their second offering, but you will have range bragging
rights over them.
Just my two seats worth,
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That controllers end cap looks melted. It may not have much mileage, but I'd
bet it's seen some
excess heat, either from overuse or undercooling. I agree, kinda scary. I have
a Curtis like that
one. The end cap loosened and pulled out, but it didn't look melted. On the
inside the end cap
material looks kind of waxy and my guess is that it's formed by pouring in
place. I'd be very
leery of this one.
--- Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hmm, something seems odd to me. I didn't think a 120V curtis would work
> at 48V, I thought the low voltage cutout would stop it from functioning.
>
>
> > wish this controller didn't look damaged or I'd use the BO since the 11
> > bids haven't hit the reserve yet...
> >
> > a reserve on an "as is" auction? too scary for me :o(
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Original URL here:
http://www.autobloggreen.com/2006/10/02/why-electric-car-companies-should-be-focused-on-this-one-ideal-e/
or tiny here:
http://tinyurl.com/ndd8m
Posted Oct 2nd 2006 1:57PM by Sebastian Blanco
I'm currently in sunny Hawaiʻi doing research on a book. Having
come from Michigan, where gas prices had dropped down to $2.20 a gallon
or so before I left, the $3 a gallon signs up at all the local stations
here reminded me that transportation fuel is a big cost here in
"paradise". Walking around the other day, I had the most obvious
brainstorm: Hawaiʻi is the ideal testing ground for electric
vehicles. Seriously. Electric car companies should be falling over each
other to release EVs here, and the major automakers shouldn't be far
behind. You can read why after the jump.
Range: one of the biggest complaints people have about EVs is that you
can't go very far without recharging (gasoline cars need to be
"recharged", too, but for some reason we've all agreed to build gas
stations at every other intersection to accomplish this feat). In
Hawaiʻi, though, except on the Big Island, range isn't really an
issue. How far can you drive on Oahu before you start coming back? To
go all the way around the island is farther than the 40-50 mile range
of most EVs for sale today, but not a lot of people here drive from
Honolulu to Turtle Bay and back every day. Those that do can stick with
their gas burners, for most everyone else, EVs are ideal.
Target audience: Hawaiʻi citizens are often at the forefront of
ecological issues. And why shouldn't they be? The environment here is
beautiful and nature is so much a part of one's daily life. From the
ocean to the fresh air, the rocks to the deep valleys, people here are
passionate about the ʻaina (loosely: the land) and the
environment.
High energy costs: as I said, gas prices here are high. This is because
almost every little bit needs to be transported here. Because gasoline
costs an arm and a leg here, the cost difference to drive a standard
gasoline car here versus on the mainland makes the EV's cost premium in
Hawaiʻi so much less of an issue, especially when you take solar
energy into consideration.
Solar: the sun shines so much here, it's a crime there aren't solar
panels atop every roof. Tesla Motors will offer a solar package with
their Roadsters to make driving that speed demon net energy positive.
Any electric car company that comes to Hawaiʻi should do the same
thing, because it's cool and because it's sensible. There are enough
people with money here who would gladly buy an EV and a set of solar
panels just so they never have to buy gas again. Trust me.
So, that's my reasoning. There are some groups here who are thinking
the same thing. If I have time, I'll check up on them while I'm here
and see how long it'll be before there's nothing but EVs here.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Please somebody tell me that this is not reality.
Mike,
I understand your frustration. My experience has been
much better than that, so I'm here to cheer you up!
When I first converted my Karmann Ghia, using Mike and
Shari's ElectroAutomotive kit, I wanted to know just how
far I could go under the worst possible conditions. I needed
to know what I could absolutely depend on. I picked a
freezing cold day, batteries had been off charge and sitting
cold for 2 days, and I drove with headlights, wipers, and the
heater blasting, in rain and fog. Using just 10 batteries in a
120 Volt pack (Trojan 27 TMH), I went 38 miles in mixed
stop and go, and high speeds, with steep hills thrown in.
I basically drove back and forth to work 3 times, then went
around my neighborhood a couple of times.
Your minimum range is of more concern than maximum,
which is why I measured my range this way. Under more ideal
conditions, the car would have gone probably up to 50 miles,
on just 10 little batteries! I was impressed.
I now have 16 Optima YellowTops in the car, thanks to
John Wayland! With the additional weight and higher voltage
(192V), it could have obviously gone far more than 50 miles
when the pack was new, but I never measured the range,
preferring to not needlessly discharge them further than needed.
Now that those Optimas are into their 11th year, I'm eyeing
the nearly empty motor compartment and realizing that I could
easily fit 6 more batteries in there, bringing the total to 22 and
264 Volts. I'm estimating range at an easy 60, with 80 possible.
All this while retaining the full back seat. For those who say you
can't use the back seat in a Ghia for other than groceries, I recently
took John Wayland, Jim Husted, and Tim Brehm for a ride, all
at the same time.
I hope this helps!
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark / all,
I currently don't have a setup to test it past 48 volts (golf cart). It does
work there (tested this week). The info side had too much heat pass near it
(slight warpage in plastic) The controller had appx 20 hours of testing before
being pulled from 120 Volt vehicle. If you want more details, or are
interested in it, contact me offline.
Peter
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: ebay 270034464771
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 08:01:54 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
wish this controller didn't look damaged or I'd use the BO since the 11 bids
haven't hit the reserve yet...
a reserve on an "as is" auction? too scary for me :o(
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robin,
Sorry, no emails from you. My ISP's spam filtering sometimes
plays nasty tricks and I don't get legitimate emails.
Rare, but happens. Try to replace ac@ with victor@ in my email
address - hopefully I'll get it.
Victor
Lawrie, Robin wrote:
Just a quick one.. I tried to contact you off list regarding motor
specs, your [EMAIL PROTECTED] address, but ive had no reply..did it get
through?
Thanks..
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mark
I just had a comment on letting your batteries sit in less then the full
charged state between charging.
For your longest battery life whenever possible you should always top off
lead acid batteries as soon as possible. I believe it is 12.6 or 12.4 volts is
the threshold voltage to avoid having batteries at when not in use. When
below this voltage it is causing damage to the batteries.
Don
In a message dated 10/3/2006 11:03:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I wish I had a 914 with 120 volts of golf cart batteries and came really
close to getting one. A smaller more aero vehicle that is lighter with the
same
amount of batteries! *drool* I'd be able to go 2 maybe three days without
charging or do side trips galore. Now I'm waiting for that easter bunny to
bring me a nice FreedomEV which is why I didn't go for the 914. With it's
light
weight and smaller footprint and simpler operation I'm hopefully I'll have
VoltsPorsche EV performance and Range without the 30 year old too small for me
vehicle.
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can confirm that a 1221C WILL work at 48 volts, but not well. I have a
120 volt system but have removed all but 8 of the batteries while I am
in the process of replacing them. With only 48 volts of T105s I can
drive it, but not very fast or far... I think the low voltage cutoff of
a 1221 is 48 volts, so it only barely works.
Nick
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Hmm, something seems odd to me. I didn't think a 120V curtis would work
at 48V, I thought the low voltage cutout would stop it from functioning.
wish this controller didn't look damaged or I'd use the BO since the 11
bids haven't hit the reserve yet...
a reserve on an "as is" auction? too scary for me :o(
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello everybody
I'm new on your list and i have already a question.
I'm working on a electric car with a series wound motor and maxwell
ultracapacitor as the
primary energy storage element.
To have a max. advantage with the ultracapacitor i need to regenerate energy
during
deceleration.
I red som article on the internet. but at the moment it is not clear for me
how this will
work with a series wound motor.
if somebody has more experience or ideas pleas let me know.
best regards
hofer tobias
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
10W gas-electric turbine the size of a quarter:
http://www.inventorconnections.com/feature_full.php?cpfeatureid=16097&id=148687
<http://www.inventorconnections.com/feature_full.php?cpfeatureid=16097&id=148687>
Hmm, with a thousand or two of them you might be able to power an EV.
Not exactly cost effective, but it would be space and weight effective.
I wonder what the efficiency could be? There's really no telling with
stuff on such an unprecedented scale, it might be very bad or very good.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anybody from Denver area know what happened to the devc? The website
isn't there anymore.
> Stephen Paschke
> APPS, IRIS, and IPI support, TIAA-CREF Denver
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"Shanghai Mainbon Industry Co.,Ltd. is an industry group based in East
China. It has 4 subsidiary companies . We have been in the motor
scooter and motorcycle industry for 12 years and have been distributing
different designs of products to fit all transportation and
entertainment needs."
Annual Revenue: Above US$100 Million
Their "E-Car99", "Smart Electric" seen here:
http://www.exportscooter.com/ecar.htm
They added a listing for the car on Alibaba last week.
tks
Lock
Toronto
Human/Electric Hybrid
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael Trefry,
As a project manager, not all parts are in hand when I plan a project
installation. However, I do know lead time, so plan around that.
If you're planning on doing all the conversion work yourself and have tons
of time on your hands, then you do want a controller right away.
If you're going to be using others (machine shops, friends, etc.), or don't
have a whole lot of time, I'll guess that 6 months from now, you'll still
be putting boxes and wiring together.
I knew if I tried to build my own, I would be going forever, so I purchased
a used EV. sure it looks bad, but it had great components (only the
basic). Now, that I'm sure it's worth the investment, I'm investing in
safety and convenience items with the plan to move all the parts to a nice
looking Doner in a few more months (hoping I meet some friends who will
weld battery racks and motor mounts for beer :)
Disclaimer: I don't know your skills nor your time, so maybe you are ready
for the controller this instant. If only converting EV's was that quick
and easy.
Good Luck;
last, if you have spare money to pay a premium for a Zilla, why not
purchase a cheap used controller like a Curtis to hold you over for 6
months (then instead of paying a premium, you'll have a spare controller
whenever you have issues with the Zilla to keep you going.
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Winning bid: US $8,090.00
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Item 330033199453
>
> Cor van de Water
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Michael, John and All,
The Volksporsche will do what you want even in
winter so don't worry about that.
Range, to put it mildly is variable. With 120vdc
of T105's or equivilents, it should do 100 miles but at
35-40 mph steady. Now add cold, driving style, no drag
optimization and your worse case range would be about 50-70
miles.
But one can drive conservatively, use Prius
tires pumped to 50 psi, ect to lower drag and you will
easily do your Hartford run and have long battery life. You
should think about using insulation or even battery heaters
if you do a lot of long range in the winter.
For instance at 30 mph, I'll use about
60wthrs/mile vs 130wthrs/mile at 65mph. So just by driving
at 45 mph instead of 65 mph, you can greatly extend your
range if you need it. There are meters that can tell you how
much power you are using, have left.
I agree with you that EV's need long range and
why I'm going for 100+ mile range in mine. But the only
way to get that in lead is in a designed as an EV to lower
aero, rolling drag and to carry more batteries without
carrying useless weight most car conversions have. Luckily
as an EV drive, battery pack costs by weight, it cuts those
costs in 1/2 !
Another way is find a small, light MC motor of
about 10 hp and drive a DC gen from it and put it in the
rear quarter panel. It should only weigh about 100 or less
lbs. Then you could go any distance at about 80 mpg.
Build your 914 into an EV, if you want a better
one after you have tried it, you can easily sell it for a
profit if you do a good job and you'll gain valuable
experience.
Stop down and see Bob Rice in Killington,
especially for the monthly Ct EAA meetings, he's been doing
long EV trips there for yrs.
John Bryan wrote;
Now that those Optimas are into their 11th year, I'm
eyeing
the nearly empty motor compartment and realizing that I
could
easily fit 6 more batteries in there, bringing the total to
22 and
264 Volts. I'm estimating range at an easy 60, with 80
possible.
All this while retaining the full back seat.
Having a light and aero EV's really pays off!!
For those who say you
can't use the back seat in a Ghia for other than groceries,
I recently
took John Wayland, Jim Husted, and Tim Brehm for a ride, all
at the same time.
John, I'm going to have to turn you in for EV and
Ghia abuse!!! ;^0 That poor car!!!
I hope this helps!
John
Jerry Dycus
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "Michael Trefry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 19:04:20 GMT
>Ok, that's still terrible.
>
>What I was really looking for something to take me into the
>city when I have an onsite consulting gig.
>
>Storrs to Hartford is 28 miles. 56 round trip. I was under
>the impression that the 914 conversion based on the kits
>offered by both evparts.com and electroauto.com would
>provide this for me with plenty to spare.
>
>Perhaps I'm overreacting. But the idea of this car being a
>utilitarian daily driver has just been shoved aside to the
>idea of it being just a really expensive tech toy.
>
>Maybe I'll make it a drag car. If I can't make a practical
>use for it, I might as well have fun with it.
>
>Sorry again for the rant. I'm just frustrated.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a question about how people install PFCs in their car. Mine came with a
nice big plug on
the power cord, but I was thinking of hard wiring it into the car. I bought the
parts to basically
put an outlet inside my car, so the charger would plug in to the car and the
car would plug in to
the wall outlet. Has anyone wired their charger directly to the car? Did you
just cut the plug
off? I plan on using the Anderson connector to hook it to the batteries and I
like the idea of
being able to quickly disconnect the charger and pull it from the car. This
also let's me charge
other packs if I need to. But I also like the idea of making a nice clean
installation with
minimal connections.
Sometimes the simple things hang you up the most.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, no. I don't have tons of spare cash. I have enough to do what I hope
is going to be a decent conversion, so I don't want to be buying things more
than once.
The thing about the backorder on the Zillas is that, while I'm not ready to
build right now. (I would barely know where to start) I'm still putting
together and trying to understand my options, and all the pieces, parts and
whatknot that I'll need. So when I am ready, when I know what I need, and
from the sounds of it, based on others recommendations, if I'm going to go
DC, I'll be wanting one of the models of Zilla controllers, I'll be wanting
to start right away. 6 months (or more) isn't right away. But you're right,
I could still be working on the car 6 months later.
I don't even know if the Zilla is what I want anymore. I guess I can a level
of regen with a Zapi, but then I'm limited to 120v (Is that correct?)
Heck, I don't even know if an EV is what I want anymore! Especially after
that whole range discussion, but I'm committed to moving forward with it,
because the engine in this 914, while strong (it's a 2.0) is LOUD and
smelly! It has dual carburetors, Yuck!
Even if it just turns into a fun little toy to take out for a 15 (sorry, 30)
mile drive.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 3:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Zilla controls backordered? - why not order and start building?
Michael Trefry,
As a project manager, not all parts are in hand when I plan a project
installation. However, I do know lead time, so plan around that.
If you're planning on doing all the conversion work yourself and have tons
of time on your hands, then you do want a controller right away.
If you're going to be using others (machine shops, friends, etc.), or don't
have a whole lot of time, I'll guess that 6 months from now, you'll still
be putting boxes and wiring together.
I knew if I tried to build my own, I would be going forever, so I purchased
a used EV. sure it looks bad, but it had great components (only the
basic). Now, that I'm sure it's worth the investment, I'm investing in
safety and convenience items with the plan to move all the parts to a nice
looking Doner in a few more months (hoping I meet some friends who will
weld battery racks and motor mounts for beer :)
Disclaimer: I don't know your skills nor your time, so maybe you are ready
for the controller this instant. If only converting EV's was that quick
and easy.
Good Luck;
last, if you have spare money to pay a premium for a Zilla, why not
purchase a cheap used controller like a Curtis to hold you over for 6
months (then instead of paying a premium, you'll have a spare controller
whenever you have issues with the Zilla to keep you going.
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So are you saying that you can get ultracaps for your project? If so, what is
your source?
You will need an alternator to develop regenerative energy- so far as I've
heard, this is not possible with conventional series-wound DC motors.
-Ralph
On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 20:42:37 +0100
"Hofer Tobias" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello everybody
>
> I'm new on your list and i have already a question.
> I'm working on a electric car with a series wound motor and maxwell
> ultracapacitor as the
> primary energy storage element.
> To have a max. advantage with the ultracapacitor i need to regenerate energy
> during
> deceleration.
> I red som article on the internet. but at the moment it is not clear for me
> how this will
> work with a series wound motor.
>
> if somebody has more experience or ideas pleas let me know.
>
> best regards
>
> hofer tobias
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My charger is hard wired in the car. I do have an Anderson disconnect on
the output- although I have never had the need to charge anything except for
the car. The input is hard wired to a connector in the gas filler. Make
sure the car's plug is a male connector. If not you will need to have a
male connector on your extension cord, which means live exposed contacts.
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave Cover
Sent: October 3, 2006 1:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: PFC-30 Question, Standard practice or sacrilege?
I have a question about how people install PFCs in their car. Mine came with
a nice big plug on the power cord, but I was thinking of hard wiring it into
the car. I bought the parts to basically put an outlet inside my car, so the
charger would plug in to the car and the car would plug in to the wall
outlet. Has anyone wired their charger directly to the car? Did you just cut
the plug off? I plan on using the Anderson connector to hook it to the
batteries and I like the idea of being able to quickly disconnect the
charger and pull it from the car. This also let's me charge other packs if I
need to. But I also like the idea of making a nice clean installation with
minimal connections.
Sometimes the simple things hang you up the most.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Ralph
I bough the ultracap-cell directly from maxwell switzerland. It is a
Boost-cap cell 145F/42V 600A with active cell balancing.
I red some article on the internet (i.e dean thompson, etmar embenhoech)
they describe the possiblity
To regen with a serie wound motor with a book-boost topology.
Regards tobias
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im
Auftrag von Ralph
Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. Oktober 2006 20:22
An: [email protected]
Betreff: Re: series wound motor
So are you saying that you can get ultracaps for your project? If so, what
is your source?
You will need an alternator to develop regenerative energy- so far as I've
heard, this is not possible with conventional series-wound DC motors.
-Ralph
On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 20:42:37 +0100
"Hofer Tobias" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello everybody
>
> I'm new on your list and i have already a question.
> I'm working on a electric car with a series wound motor and maxwell
> ultracapacitor as the primary energy storage element.
> To have a max. advantage with the ultracapacitor i need to regenerate
energy
> during
> deceleration.
> I red som article on the internet. but at the moment it is not clear for
me
> how this will
> work with a series wound motor.
>
> if somebody has more experience or ideas pleas let me know.
>
> best regards
>
> hofer tobias
--- End Message ---
