EV Digest 6013
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) #22
by dm3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: 42 volts + boost?
by "England Nathan-r25543" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) What EV would you do with big funds?
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
by john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: 42 volts + boost?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: What EV would you do with big funds?
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Current Eliminator at Bakersfield
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: GWiZ 5th gear review
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) finally working
by Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Buss Bars
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: What EV would you do with big funds?
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: lee's emeter companion?
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: finally working
by "Ted C." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Wiring a Ceramic Heater
by "Chris Sutton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: lee's emeter companion?
by Cory Cross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
by john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: finally working
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Any of the 22 owners on the list?
Jimmy
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sharon G Alexander
Sent: October 11, 2006 6:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: #22
,,Hi Number 22 for a conversion just made it to our shop, we have 2 in
there
now, one almost finished. one 1/2 way done. So it will sit out side till
next week when we can start on it,,Its much better building them than
talking about tail gates or tail lights.
LOL LOL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI Folks,
A while back someone posted a link to a surplus 24V DC lawn mower motor at
Supluscenter. Silly me I went out and bought one, before I checked
around.
Don't get me wrong, this is a great motor, and surplus center had them for
a decent price. The thing is, the day after I ordered it, I found the
EXACT same motor at American Science and Surplus for $20 less.
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=173
This is a 24V DC 1.5hp motor. It's a totally enclosed, non venting motor,
so it must be pretty efficient. I can't test this right now, because I'm
in the middle of moving house.
Anyway, the motor weighs 12lbs including the large aluminum flange. This
is actually the end bell of the motor, so you can't just remove it. You
could trim it down though, if you wanted to.
The wires coming from the motor are 10ga, which according to my charts are
good for about 55 amps. That sounds about right for 1.5 hp output.
Apparently the motors are made by Tecumseh(at least that's what's printed
on the box they come in), and I believe they were used in Toro battery
powered mowers.
Obviously these would be excellent for a battery powered mower.
I'm planning on seeing how well they work on my trike, I'll let you know.
The 7/8" dia shaft should make it easy to find sprockets, from go-carts,
etc.
Anyway, $50 seems like a really good price for a 1.5 hp motor.
Cheers, Pete.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like you are referring to a circuit I saw Lee Hart post several
years ago, it uses two diodes and a solenoid to switch two packs between
series and parallel. The Golf Cart folks are familiar with this type of
circuit.
This type of circuit would work but you would have losses in the diodes
in the form of heat when in parallel mode. You would need a good heat
sink on a couple of D-09 stud case diodes and they would have to be
electrically isolated from other components and each other. When you
switch to "high" the diodes are no longer conducting so this does help
lower heat when you want to go faster. Another issue might be the
controller, if it needs a fixed voltage from the pack it would not like
the pack changing voltage by this much.
The golf cart folks used this circuit because they were pushing higher
voltage through a motor designed for 36 volts, when a 36V motor was run
slow with PWM on 72V, sometimes the motor would get hot due to the
higher voltage so they would kick the system into parallel, when they
wanted a boost they would hit a switch that closed a solenoid and put
the packs into series for 72 volts. When they returned to base they
could charge the two packs on 36V with their factory charger.
Nate
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 11:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: 42 volts + boost?
I was wondering for safety sake if I could design a battery system on 42
volts?
Supposedly 42volts DC won't kill you?
So if had two banks each consisting of either 7 6volts PbA or 5 8volts.
Then I'd use some heavy duty diodes to make the boost "voltage doubler"
Has anyone else done this. I was wondering for liability it might be
better if the voltage was lower.
Thanks
Michael Golub
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVerybody,
I've been wondering what type of a setup I'd do with virtually unlimited
funds. I'd like to hear what type of an EV all of you would put
together with a big chunk of money. Maybe "unlimited" is a bit too
lofty. How about you get to pick your donor car (no limit on $ for
that), and $40k for everything else. That will at least make it
somewhat creative and semi-practical.
Bonus points for the coolest EV at the lowest price :)
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Professional grade electric vehicle parts and resources
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just bought one of these motors also, but i got mine from american science
and surplus for 50 bucks. :) I'm also wondering what kind of peak performance
i can get out of this motor, im lookin to use 3 for a drag pocket bike. I'll
be putting on larger cable of course, probably 6 gauge, maybe 4 if i can fit it
in there somehow. Let us know how these motors work out for you.
Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
HI Folks,
A while back someone posted a link to a surplus 24V DC lawn mower motor at
Supluscenter. Silly me I went out and bought one, before I checked
around.
Don't get me wrong, this is a great motor, and surplus center had them for
a decent price. The thing is, the day after I ordered it, I found the
EXACT same motor at American Science and Surplus for $20 less.
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=173
This is a 24V DC 1.5hp motor. It's a totally enclosed, non venting motor,
so it must be pretty efficient. I can't test this right now, because I'm
in the middle of moving house.
Anyway, the motor weighs 12lbs including the large aluminum flange. This
is actually the end bell of the motor, so you can't just remove it. You
could trim it down though, if you wanted to.
The wires coming from the motor are 10ga, which according to my charts are
good for about 55 amps. That sounds about right for 1.5 hp output.
Apparently the motors are made by Tecumseh(at least that's what's printed
on the box they come in), and I believe they were used in Toro battery
powered mowers.
Obviously these would be excellent for a battery powered mower.
I'm planning on seeing how well they work on my trike, I'll let you know.
The 7/8" dia shaft should make it easy to find sprockets, from go-carts,
etc.
Anyway, $50 seems like a really good price for a 1.5 hp motor.
Cheers, Pete.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Myles,
Yes - virtually all "homegrown" conversions have
a split pack for weight distribution.
I was not clear enough in stating that all
factory EVs and all *factory* conversions
(like my S10 truck from US Electricar, as well as
their Prizm sedan) have a single battery box.
Thanks for sharpening this point to NEWER
factory EVs as indeed the senior citizens of
EV land will have a different design.
Hope this clarifies.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Myles Twete
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 2:13 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: 42 volts + boost?
Cor stated:
> Most common way to avoid lethal voltages is to
> have an enclosed battery box containing ALL
> batteries, PLUS the contactors.
> Look at factory EVs and conversions.
Yeah? I'm looking at my factory EV right now [again, 1921 Milburn]. It has
a split pack.
Nearly ALL factory EVs prior to 1940 had split packs.
That would be well over 100,000 vehicles!
But I know what you mean: MODERN factory EVs.
I would question whether most "conversions" these days have all the
batteries in a single box. Certainly not most of them I've seen...
There's at least a substantial minority out there that find it beneficial
from a weight distribution and space availability standpoint alone to split
the pack.
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Russell,
Absolutely agree with you on the truck not being a
typical commute vehicle, even though a lot of inhabitants
of the USA disagree.
I already bought a 1991 BMW 325i to convert, but the
amount of time and work involved and a good opportunity
to buy my current 4900 lbs truck made me decide to
settle for that EV.
I do occasionally (a few times per month) use its bed,
but mainly I commute in it by myself, so if I had a
neighbor with a light sedan or even lights vehicle
then I would prefer to use that.
In fact, I try to use my other EV once a week, which
means I consume 0.1 kWh iso 10 kWh because it weighs
50 lbs instead of nearly 5000...
Indeed, this is my electric bicycle.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Death to All Spammers
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
> .................except this isn't a full EV. Plug-ins generally
wouldn't be
> on the highway on battery power , anyway :-\
>
> And your 40k is way off.
>
> And your other figures as well.
>
I don't even know why he would comment - he doesn't want to give up on
watering and frequently checking the s.g. of his wet cells...but 5kwh
*would* be enough for most of his stated 5-10mi/day driving. Those
occasions when he would go beyond 15mi fall into the same argument ICE
drivers give for wanting every vehicle to go 300mi.
I don't think Roland does as much freeway driving as those of us who
commute to work daily - how many of us could make our round-trip with
more than 3 tons of EV and keep traffic off our rear bumper?! ;) At a
ton less, I think the Ranger is too heavy for my needs, but I'm one of
those lighter-is-better car drivers who believes trucks should be
reserved for times when you absolutely *need* a truck.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 12, 2006, at 8:58 PM, Ryan Bohm wrote:
How about you get to pick your donor car (no limit on $ for that), and
$40k for everything else.
I'd start with a Tesla Roadster or a Tango as the donor, and spend the
$40,000 on a PV system for the house :)
Actually, I'd be tempted to do some angel investing and give the money
to folks like Lee Hart and Jerry Dycus and have them build me something
nice, like a Sunrise and/or a Freedom EV.
With a virtually unlimited budget, I wouldn't bother with a conversion.
I'd get a purpose-built EV, either one of the currently available
models or one on the drawing board.
But that's not what you're asking for, is it? OK, for a conversion I'd
want something like ProEV's Electric Imp. I love my Subaru Impreza and
would be tickled with an electric version with racecar performance and
an advanced battery pack.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
I thought that I'd be able to make it up to Bakersfield to see Dennis run and
WIN the division 7 championship this weekend, but a previous commitment that I
had forgotten all about stopped that.
His first race was today.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, at about 1/5th cent per mile, it's hard to beat the fuel economy of an
e-bike. <g>
> In fact, I try to use my other EV once a week, which
> means I consume 0.1 kWh iso 10 kWh because it weighs
> 50 lbs instead of nearly 5000...
> Indeed, this is my electric bicycle.
> Cor van de Water
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When you see someone go through such obvious trouble
(stealing the power strip from the TV while the kids
are watching ???)
Then you know that he is trying to prove it can't work.
Well, if you want to beat a dog, usually you will be
able to find a stick.
This is the type of guy that can convince himself
that he absolutely NEEDS an Excursion to transport
his little kids around.
Some of us have seen the emperor is naked.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Trefry
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 4:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: GWiZ 5th gear review
Ouch, not very flattering.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mike Ellis
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 6:21 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: GWiZ 5th gear review
http://youtube.com/watch?v=985zhLOo2XY
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> In fact, I try to use my other EV once a week, which
> means I consume 0.1 kWh iso 10 kWh because it weighs
> 50 lbs instead of nearly 5000...
> Indeed, this is my electric bicycle.
>
Wish I could get away with a bike to work, but 24mi and the coastal
hills between me and the job are just too much! Wonder if my Kewet
with 96V of 100Ah NiCds could make the 48-50mi - gotta figure out what
it needs to get running before I try that.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A few weeks back I wrote how my car simply would not start. After a
lot of help from David Brandt and a whole lot of going around in
circles with my meter, I am finally mobil again.
I finally narrowed it down to the contactor even though it gave every
appearance of working. Following David's suggestion I removed it to
clean any possible corrosion buildup. I did not find much in the way
of corrosion on the contacts, but I did not a dead bug caught between
the bottom contacts. After removing the bug and cleaning the
contacts. I am back on the road.
Thanks to all for the overwhelming support and interest.
Calvin King
Leesburg, GA
'81 Jet Electrica 96 volts
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Geeeezzzz..... the only reason I MADE this original POST is
In Hopes that some one from Hymotion... would Chime IN and explain...
I also SENT the original POST to them directly... No response yet.
Also I sent the message to the eaa-phev group, but most of their
responses were just speculations also....speculating that their $$Prices
were baced on Future Costs, when the origioal Pack would need replacing
If that is TRUE CalCars.Org News should have said so....
I can not POST to the CalCars News FEED. It seems that only Felix and
a few others can POST to that Network...
All the theories and speculation is not helpful.... sorry...
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Russ,
Never have that problem, because I buy heavy wall reinforce waffle pattern
case cells and/or batteries, with the tops 1/8 inch wider then the bottoms.
This leaves about 1/4 inch space at the cell sides but the top covers are
tight together. The Exide Tudor cells are made this way. The next closes in
battery sizes are the Trojan with the waffle reinforce sides that also has a
1/4 inch space at the sides of the battery case.
The thin smooth side batteries are the one that seems to bulged out even
when new.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Buss Bars
> > If your batteries are bolted down tight and tight together so they do
> > not
> > move or press fit into a battery box container, you might be able to use
> > the
> > buss bars.
>
> The reason they need to be TIGHT is that if you use the buss bars, then
> the battery posts that you attach them to will have to be SECURE. If they
> are not, then the posts will vibrate and tear loose from the battery
> housing itself. You cannot expect the battery posts to survive the bumps
> and shocks of normal driving if the batteries themselves are not held in
> place very securely. Which in turn can be problematic when the batteries
> swell with normal aging. They might be so tight in their positions that
> you will have a difficult time removing them.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had posted the one from surplus center to the list and bought one.
I am hopefully getting a 21" powered reel mower on saturday. The carb died and
I am getting it pretty cheap. Hopefully it is powerful enough to run it even if
I need to push the reel mower myself rather then have it powered, might make it
last a little longer on a charge too.
----- Original Message ----
From: john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:07:03 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap motors for Lawnmowers, E-bikes
I just bought one of these motors also, but i got mine from american science
and surplus for 50 bucks. :) I'm also wondering what kind of peak performance
i can get out of this motor, im lookin to use 3 for a drag pocket bike. I'll
be putting on larger cable of course, probably 6 gauge, maybe 4 if i can fit it
in there somehow. Let us know how these motors work out for you.
Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
HI Folks,
A while back someone posted a link to a surplus 24V DC lawn mower motor at
Supluscenter. Silly me I went out and bought one, before I checked
around.
Don't get me wrong, this is a great motor, and surplus center had them for
a decent price. The thing is, the day after I ordered it, I found the
EXACT same motor at American Science and Surplus for $20 less.
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=173
This is a 24V DC 1.5hp motor. It's a totally enclosed, non venting motor,
so it must be pretty efficient. I can't test this right now, because I'm
in the middle of moving house.
Anyway, the motor weighs 12lbs including the large aluminum flange. This
is actually the end bell of the motor, so you can't just remove it. You
could trim it down though, if you wanted to.
The wires coming from the motor are 10ga, which according to my charts are
good for about 55 amps. That sounds about right for 1.5 hp output.
Apparently the motors are made by Tecumseh(at least that's what's printed
on the box they come in), and I believe they were used in Toro battery
powered mowers.
Obviously these would be excellent for a battery powered mower.
I'm planning on seeing how well they work on my trike, I'll let you know.
The 7/8" dia shaft should make it easy to find sprockets, from go-carts,
etc.
Anyway, $50 seems like a really good price for a 1.5 hp motor.
Cheers, Pete.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, 24 mi is a stretch- it can be done, but it requires dedication!
My commute is 10 miles one-way from Sunnyvale (near CA85) to San Jose.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Death to All Spammers
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:41 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
> In fact, I try to use my other EV once a week, which
> means I consume 0.1 kWh iso 10 kWh because it weighs
> 50 lbs instead of nearly 5000...
> Indeed, this is my electric bicycle.
>
Wish I could get away with a bike to work, but 24mi and the coastal
hills between me and the job are just too much! Wonder if my Kewet
with 96V of 100Ah NiCds could make the 48-50mi - gotta figure out what
it needs to get running before I try that.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd use a GM EV1 or Solectria Sunrise type glider, ACPropulsion 200HP
motor/controller, and the best Lithium Polymer batteries (180 - 200 wh/kg).
With a 1500 pound battery pack, one could honestly achieve an 800 mile
range, insane! I guess it's possible you could hit even 1000. And it will
be pretty quick with 200 hp. No more complaining EVs don't have enough
range! :-D
Okay, that will cost a little more than $40k, but that would be one hell of
an electric car when it comes to range.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:58 PM
Subject: What EV would you do with big funds?
Hi EVerybody,
I've been wondering what type of a setup I'd do with virtually unlimited
funds. I'd like to hear what type of an EV all of you would put together
with a big chunk of money. Maybe "unlimited" is a bit too lofty. How
about you get to pick your donor car (no limit on $ for that), and $40k
for everything else. That will at least make it somewhat creative and
semi-practical.
Bonus points for the coolest EV at the lowest price :)
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Professional grade electric vehicle parts and resources
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On the Emeter, can't the 't' function be used to approximate the amount of time
that the battery pack will last at the present rate of use?
On page 18 of the manual, the 't' function 'is an estimate of how long (in
hours) the battery will sustain a load. It is based on a selectable, time
averaged, rate of discharge. Default is the average of the last four minutes of
use (see page 24).'
In my 5th wheel, I used this function all the time when I was boondocking. I
would see that if I was certain elec devices, lights, computer, fan for heater,
water pump, etc. I would have an estimate of how many hours I could use that
specific load. If I turned on or off something the estimate would change.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steven, why don't you ask them directly? That way you can avoid all the
speculation and get some answers.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steven Lough
Sent: October 12, 2006 9:01 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
Geeeezzzz..... the only reason I MADE this original POST is
In Hopes that some one from Hymotion... would Chime IN and explain...
I also SENT the original POST to them directly... No response yet.
Also I sent the message to the eaa-phev group, but most of their
responses were just speculations also....speculating that their $$Prices
were baced on Future Costs, when the origioal Pack would need replacing
If that is TRUE CalCars.Org News should have said so....
I can not POST to the CalCars News FEED. It seems that only Felix and
a few others can POST to that Network...
All the theories and speculation is not helpful.... sorry...
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why would you want to change the pigtails? Granted lareger wires are less
likely to melt, but all that means is that you melt the windings INSIDE
the motor instead.
> I just bought one of these motors also, but i got mine from american
> science and surplus for 50 bucks. :) I'm also wondering what kind of
> peak performance i can get out of this motor, im lookin to use 3 for a
> drag pocket bike. I'll be putting on larger cable of course, probably 6
> gauge, maybe 4 if i can fit it in there somehow. Let us know how these
> motors work out for you.
>
>
>
> Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> HI Folks,
>
> A while back someone posted a link to a surplus 24V DC lawn mower motor at
> Supluscenter. Silly me I went out and bought one, before I checked
> around.
>
> Don't get me wrong, this is a great motor, and surplus center had them for
> a decent price. The thing is, the day after I ordered it, I found the
> EXACT same motor at American Science and Surplus for $20 less.
> http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=173
>
> This is a 24V DC 1.5hp motor. It's a totally enclosed, non venting motor,
> so it must be pretty efficient. I can't test this right now, because I'm
> in the middle of moving house.
>
> Anyway, the motor weighs 12lbs including the large aluminum flange. This
> is actually the end bell of the motor, so you can't just remove it. You
> could trim it down though, if you wanted to.
> The wires coming from the motor are 10ga, which according to my charts are
> good for about 55 amps. That sounds about right for 1.5 hp output.
> Apparently the motors are made by Tecumseh(at least that's what's printed
> on the box they come in), and I believe they were used in Toro battery
> powered mowers.
>
> Obviously these would be excellent for a battery powered mower.
>
> I'm planning on seeing how well they work on my trike, I'll let you know.
> The 7/8" dia shaft should make it easy to find sprockets, from go-carts,
> etc.
>
> Anyway, $50 seems like a really good price for a 1.5 hp motor.
>
> Cheers, Pete.
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Debugging is always fun.
(Sorry, I had too)
Ted
Olympia, WA
N47 02.743 W122 53.772
Thank GOD for Thomas Edison. Without him we would all be watching TV by
candle light.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Calvin King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:51 PM
Subject: finally working
A few weeks back I wrote how my car simply would not start. After a lot
of help from David Brandt and a whole lot of going around in circles with
my meter, I am finally mobil again.
I finally narrowed it down to the contactor even though it gave every
appearance of working. Following David's suggestion I removed it to
clean any possible corrosion buildup. I did not find much in the way of
corrosion on the contacts, but I did not a dead bug caught between the
bottom contacts. After removing the bug and cleaning the contacts. I am
back on the road.
Thanks to all for the overwhelming support and interest.
Calvin King
Leesburg, GA
'81 Jet Electrica 96 volts
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I meant to say "phone" them directly - it makes a big difference than just
sending an email note.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steven Lough
Sent: October 12, 2006 9:01 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Very Reasonable - almost Unbelievable Cost on Li-Ion Pack
Geeeezzzz..... the only reason I MADE this original POST is
In Hopes that some one from Hymotion... would Chime IN and explain...
I also SENT the original POST to them directly... No response yet.
Also I sent the message to the eaa-phev group, but most of their
responses were just speculations also....speculating that their $$Prices
were baced on Future Costs, when the origioal Pack would need replacing
If that is TRUE CalCars.Org News should have said so....
I can not POST to the CalCars News FEED. It seems that only Felix and
a few others can POST to that Network...
All the theories and speculation is not helpful.... sorry...
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just got my 120v 1500 watt DC ceramic heater, and I'm not 100% sure
how to wire it up.
The other heater I have (which I took apart) has 3 "cells", and 3
leads. The 2 outside leads are wired to positive, and the middle is
negative.
This heater core has 5 cells and 5 leads. I did a little googling
for ceramic heaters but never found anything which said specifically
how to wire them. I guessing that I alternative positive and negative
across the leads.
Postive to 1 3 and 5, and negative to 2 and 4. Is this correct?
Do I need to do anything special other than putting a fuse inline to
the battery pack, and probably a relay for the on-off switch?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
In my gas car, it doesn't matter that my %full has little relation
to how far I can go, because it's always going to be many times the
distance to the gas station. The Ah counter is just as (in)accurate as
the tank indicator.
The RangerEV "tank" gauge is acceptable because it has a pretty good
range. I think it could be made better by having a second needle gauge
with units from 0-80miles -- representing that traffic like the last
time frame would result in a "full tank" going that many miles. So, you
could learn that going 45mph will put your needle at the 80mi mark and
if your tank is half full, you can go 40 miles. I think the rate-of-fall
of the single gauge is too subtle, but I haven't driven a RangerEV
either. Two gauges also gives an immediate indicator if something is
killing efficiency. This idea would still have the limit of not showing
the range at a different speed (as Roger points out below), but it would
provide the most data to the human to aid his/her estimation of
remaining range, with everything that's predictable (temperature, age,
Peukert's, resistance, etc.) factored out automatically.
Cory Cross
Roger Stockton wrote:
>Cory Cross wrote:
>
>
>
>>Are there any special problems with my idea?
>>
>>
>
>Not really problems per se, but certainly there are a few challenges:
>
>- for the guage(s) to estimate distance remaining at various speeds,
>someone has to determine how much energy this particular vehicle
>consumes at each speed of interest and enter that into the guage. It
>also assumes that the amount of energy required to maintain a particular
>speed is a constant for the vehicle, which will not be true in general
>(e.g. holding some speed on an incline vs on level ground, or into a
>headwind vs a tailwind, or with the top up or down on a convertible, or
>with or without a trailer attached, etc.)
>
>
>- it could consume an excessive amount of the relatively valuable
>(limite) dashboard space, since multiple displays are required to show
>estimated range remaining at each speed of interest.
>
>I think that the same functionality could essentially be provided by a
>single distance-to-empty indicator. To see the estimated range
>remaining at various speeds of interest, one would simply speed up or
>slow down to the speed of interest and see how the estimate varies. The
>advantage of this approach is that there is no need to tell the meter
>how many Wh/mi the vehicle consumes at any given speed, nor to assume
>that that rate of consumption will always be valid for that speed, since
>the guage would always update based on the actual rate of consumption at
>the present speed. The disadvantage would be that if you are on a
>surface street and wonder if you have enough range to hop on the freeway
>for the next leg of your trip, you may not be able to accelerate up to
>freeway speed to check the range remaining estimate without actually
>committing to at least getting on the freeway and travelling to the next
>exit.
>
>
>One further complication is that a distance-to-empty indicator would
>require that the guage have a speed sense input so that it knows what
>speed the present consumption rate corresponds to.
>
>A way around this would be to provide a 'time-to-empty' indicator
>instead. Assuming the fuel guage has some idea of the actual or
>available battery capacity remaining (kWh) and the present rate of
>consumption (kW), it can easily estimate the time remaining at the
>present rate of consumption. The user would have to perform the mental
>step of translating a time-to-empty of 15min into being able to travel a
>further 15mi at the present speed (rate of consumption) of 60mph, but
>this might be an acceptable compromise to simplify the guage.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Roger.
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well the idea was to have more amp flow to the motor. I'm only running the
motors for 1/8 mile runs, not continous so im not sure if the motor would burn
out or not with higher current. I'll also be running the motors at 48 volts
and limiting the rpm to 4k to avoid self destruction.
Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Why would you want to change the
pigtails? Granted lareger wires are less
likely to melt, but all that means is that you melt the windings INSIDE
the motor instead.
> I just bought one of these motors also, but i got mine from american
> science and surplus for 50 bucks. :) I'm also wondering what kind of
> peak performance i can get out of this motor, im lookin to use 3 for a
> drag pocket bike. I'll be putting on larger cable of course, probably 6
> gauge, maybe 4 if i can fit it in there somehow. Let us know how these
> motors work out for you.
>
>
>
> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> HI Folks,
>
> A while back someone posted a link to a surplus 24V DC lawn mower motor at
> Supluscenter. Silly me I went out and bought one, before I checked
> around.
>
> Don't get me wrong, this is a great motor, and surplus center had them for
> a decent price. The thing is, the day after I ordered it, I found the
> EXACT same motor at American Science and Surplus for $20 less.
> http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=173
>
> This is a 24V DC 1.5hp motor. It's a totally enclosed, non venting motor,
> so it must be pretty efficient. I can't test this right now, because I'm
> in the middle of moving house.
>
> Anyway, the motor weighs 12lbs including the large aluminum flange. This
> is actually the end bell of the motor, so you can't just remove it. You
> could trim it down though, if you wanted to.
> The wires coming from the motor are 10ga, which according to my charts are
> good for about 55 amps. That sounds about right for 1.5 hp output.
> Apparently the motors are made by Tecumseh(at least that's what's printed
> on the box they come in), and I believe they were used in Toro battery
> powered mowers.
>
> Obviously these would be excellent for a battery powered mower.
>
> I'm planning on seeing how well they work on my trike, I'll let you know.
> The 7/8" dia shaft should make it easy to find sprockets, from go-carts,
> etc.
>
> Anyway, $50 seems like a really good price for a 1.5 hp motor.
>
> Cheers, Pete.
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was told in school that the term "debugging" came from the original
enormous relay-based computers which actually had bugs crawl into the
relay contacts.
Could be an urban legend, though.
Danny
Ted C. wrote:
Debugging is always fun.
(Sorry, I had too)
Ted
Olympia, WA
N47 02.743 W122 53.772
Thank GOD for Thomas Edison. Without him we would all be watching TV
by candle light.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Calvin King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:51 PM
Subject: finally working
A few weeks back I wrote how my car simply would not start. After a
lot of help from David Brandt and a whole lot of going around in
circles with my meter, I am finally mobil again.
I finally narrowed it down to the contactor even though it gave every
appearance of working. Following David's suggestion I removed it to
clean any possible corrosion buildup. I did not find much in the
way of corrosion on the contacts, but I did not a dead bug caught
between the bottom contacts. After removing the bug and cleaning
the contacts. I am back on the road.
Thanks to all for the overwhelming support and interest.
Calvin King
Leesburg, GA
'81 Jet Electrica 96 volts
--- End Message ---
