EV Digest 6033
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Need Help in Australia
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Prius battery pack
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Need Help in Australia
by "Christie Cooksey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Need Help in Australia
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) 250 amp breaker poping
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Battery brands
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: 250 amp breaker poping
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Possible Motors
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Battery Compare
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Battery Terminal suppliers
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Battery brands
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: NiMH Battery Pack from Prius Batteries
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Battery brands
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Fuel gauge Peukert correction, was: lee's emeter companion?
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: What's the most efficent way to connect my ADC 9" motor to a car?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Can 2 x contactors be put in series to handle more current?
by "Adan Vielma" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: What's the most efficent way to connect my ADC 9" motor to a car?
by "Adan Vielma" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Lightweight Flywheel? Limited Slip Diff
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What's the most efficent way to connect my ADC 9" motor to a car?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) RE: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Lightweight Flywheel? Limited Slip Diff
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Chevron NiMH was Re: Small request
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Can 2 x contactors be put in series to handle more current?
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Christie,
> I live in country NSW and need advice on where to buy materials in
> Australia.
Shari Prange (from Electro Automotive) posted a good list a few months back.
You'll find it here:
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg06470.html
(search for "Australian resources")
Here in Sydney, we're slowly getting our local AEVA branch back up and running.
See here for details:
http://sydneyaeva.googlepages.com/
If you ever make a trip to Sydney that coincides with a field day or meeting,
please come along!
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Folks,
Anybody out there who is biulding an EV using a bunch of used Prius
batteries? I would like to hear their experiences, thanks
JJ
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Claudio
You're a godsend!
I was beginning to dispair of ever finding anyone to help me.
I found the list of resources. WooHoo! Now to talk my husband into a
weekend in Sydney. ;0)
Cheers
Christie :0)
----- Original Message -----
> Shari Prange (from Electro Automotive) posted a good list a few months
back. You'll find it here:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg06470.html
> (search for "Australian resources")
>
> Here in Sydney, we're slowly getting our local AEVA branch back up and
running. See here for details:
> http://sydneyaeva.googlepages.com/
>
> If you ever make a trip to Sydney that coincides with a field day or
meeting, please come along!
------------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello
I have this 86 toyota PU running with a 9"warp, a
logisystem controller 1209 at 550amp/120v, and 20
6volt sam's club batteries.
Only using a 250 amp breaker, but it seems to pop to
frequently. Even though my emeter says I'm at 150 it
can pop.
Perhaps I should upgrade with 4 more batteries,
becuase I have a 144volt controller.
But is there a cheap place to get a 400amp breaker?
Thanks!
Michael Golub
Fairbanks
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:33 PM 10/17/2006, you wrote:
Hi all,
I'm about to replace the 12 trojan 30XHS's in my car as well as the
20 Trojan T105's in my house and I'm curious if people have opinions
about battery brands.
I've been happy with the Trojans. But it seems that the 'equivalent'
US Battery models are significantly cheaper.
Opinions?
Thanks!
Aaron Lamperti
Norwich, VT
We recommend U.S. battery, and designed our kits around them. Our
battery guru has told us that they are more robustly built in small
details that add up to overall better quality. Also, Trojan has
historically been less friendly to conversions in terms of
willingness to supply "L" style terminals and to sell matched packs,
and they have been known to do some slippery things in terms of their
claims of capacity.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The toyota yaris has an electric 12v pre-heater for cars in cold
weather regions to heat up the car before the engine warms up. Does
anyone think this could be used as the car heater in San Francisco
climate? I have no idea what the wattage is. Perhaps it will not be
efficient at 12v but it would be easy to use an will fit in the
existing configuration with a few screws....
Mark Dutko
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael I use a 3 phase AC breaker, purchased from a demolition outfit. I
have been told by electrical engineers that the DC rating of an AC breaker
is 1/3 the AC rating, so just get a 400A 3 phase ganged breaker and run your
cable series through the breaker. In my case, I have my 3 phase breaker
split the pack into lower voltage subpacks - but I have a 312V pack.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: October 17, 2006 6:25 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: 250 amp breaker poping
Hello
I have this 86 toyota PU running with a 9"warp, a logisystem controller 1209
at 550amp/120v, and 20 6volt sam's club batteries.
Only using a 250 amp breaker, but it seems to pop to frequently. Even though
my emeter says I'm at 150 it can pop.
Perhaps I should upgrade with 4 more batteries, becuase I have a 144volt
controller.
But is there a cheap place to get a 400amp breaker?
Thanks!
Michael Golub
Fairbanks
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've run into a guy selling some DC Electric Motors for $300 ea.
25HP (qty 2) and 15HP (Qty 5) continuous duty. Some are brand new in the box.
The problem is that I think they are rated for 500V.
Hopefully he will fax me the data sheet on these.
Anyone think these might be worth pursuing?
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What are your parameters?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis Muhlestein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: Battery Compare
> If you only have the following 2 batteries to choose from, which one would
> you pick:
>
> Exide Orbital ES27X or Odyssey PC2150?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 17, 2006, at 1:10 PM, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G
wrote:
Evparts is a great place to shop but those terminals they are selling
at
really pricey!
At the time I bought them, I couldn't find anything comparable in the
local market. The local auto electric specialty shop lugs were crudely
made and MORE expensive. Same at the FLAPS. I couldn't find any
online suppliers of the Quick Cable lugs that were substantially less
expensive, so I just added them on to my Evparts order and saved a bit
on shipping.
(I did find other brands of terminals, but I wanted Quick Cable after I
had a look at a few other brands and read the archives.)
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When you say for your house, do you mean as in a battery pack for renewable
energy to power your house? If so hands down on the 6 v batteries, in fact if
you can use the L-16 because of the amphour reserve that they have. Even though
they are bigger and heavier, for renewable energy they are the best.
As to your car, what is your battery pack v? What is the physical space you
have? What kind of controller do you have? etc?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Lamperti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 1:33 PM
Subject: Battery brands
> Hi all,
>
> I'm about to replace the 12 trojan 30XHS's in my car as well as the
> 20 Trojan T105's in my house and I'm curious if people have opinions
> about battery brands.
>
> I've been happy with the Trojans. But it seems that the 'equivalent'
> US Battery models are significantly cheaper.
>
> Opinions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron Lamperti
> Norwich, VT
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ya gotta know the crusher...
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: NiMH Battery Pack from Prius Batteries
> That is very cool. I wonder how much you can get Prius packs for. Anybody
> know?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul G. wrote:
On Oct 16, 2006, at 5:55 PM, Stefan T. Peters wrote:
Paul G. wrote:
The fact that the capacity is there, but not available at some
higher rate, is one of the weaknesses of using a simple Peukert's
correction to the ah discharge (the issue of what the user expects
next.) Still, a properly programmed e-meter doesn't do to bad.
I feel lost here, I guess it's all going over my head...
Let's say I have a 100Ah pack. And I have a Ah counter that is set to
read "F" when reset (charge cycle), and "E" when it's at -100Ah. Now
say this counter/meter uses a Peukert's correction to scale the
display based on my current amp draw. So, when I nail the throttle,
the gauge needle slumps down closer to "E", and when I let up on the
pedal, it raises up back toward "F".
That is not how the e-meter does the math. What you are describing
could be approximated with an expanded scale volt meter and some
dampening. After all, we know that at 1.75 vpc lead should be
considered dead. Full varies slightly with the battery in question
(plate alloy, acid strength, temperature, and I'm sure more) but is
around 2.15 vpc. If you have a volt meter scaled for that voltage
range (for your pack) you have an idea of how much range is available
at the current demand. One issue is that every time you release the
throttle an EV quits using electricity (so range appears to be nearly
infinite.)
That last issue would be a reason to use a Ah counter, no? I'm talking
about a "Ah consumed" readout from 0 ("F") to pack capacity ("E" - or Ah
available at the minimum rate - let's say 1 amp) which is adjusted
upward (toward empty) for the current amp draw. So the needle can only
raise to the "pack capacity" - raw Ah consumed. Thus when you are at a
stop light, you see (close to) the actual AH left in the batts.
If you wanted to be paranoid, you could have it implement a minimum
deflection (in order to represent a nominal amp draw - say your average
amp draw). But personally, I would think that just setting "E" to 80%
pack capacity would work well enough.
But there are other issues too. Let's say you take some surface
streets at low speed to get to a freeway, then blast (not likely in
western WA)
LOL - I hear ya there ;-) Though it is a bit clearer down here in
Chehalis...
So, would such a "low brainer" setup work? It could even be implemented
using only discreet parts (analog even).
Say, use the voltage from a shunt (or one scaled from it) to somehow
charge a sensitive RC network, which then deflects a mV movement. The
bias input for the movement (zero adjust) could come from the same input
voltage scaled down to match the Peukert's rate for your pack. Two
multi-turn pots (or one pot and one trim cap) to set the pack size and
the Peukert. Though I'm sure it would end up being more complicated then
that :_(
Lee, your thoughts?
~ Peanut Gallery ~
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You've asked a contradiction there:
ADC motors are good to close to 6K.
6K RPMs in the average vehicle will take you to
perhaps 62.
To get to 70, you'll need 3rd.
In addition, there might on occasion be an extra steep
hill where you want 1st.
As a result, most EVers use a taperlock hub attached
to the manual tranny's flywheel.
My DVD has a good 5 minutes on the process.
peace,
--- Adan Vielma <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm working on plans for an electric car and was
> wondering if you would be so kind as to help me with
> this question.
>
> I was wondering what is the best way to connect an
> ADC 9" motor to the power train that would give you
> the most efficiency without having to shift gears
> while driving?
>
> Thanks so much for all your help with this! I'm
> looking to get many inputs on this one as I know
> there are pros and cons to every different way of
> powering a car.
> Have a wonderful day!
> Sincerely,
> Adan Vielma
> Lewis & Clark College
> Portland, Oregon
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A 12V heater? I thought these ran on 120V. It seems the Yaris batt would die
pretty quickly if the engine is preheated.
Ah, I see... you are probably looking at the European diesel models. Those
pre-heaters are very common. They don't heat up the engine or water
jacket... they ignite a glow plug in the engine. That's a very common
feature in diesel engines. When cold (below 40 degrees) diesels require this
pre-heater glow plug. It causes a hot spot in the engine, so the diesel
ignites quicker. It's used all the time in many engines... you turn on the
key and wait for the light to go out... then crank the engine up quickly.
(Above 40 degrees or so, you don't really need to wait for the light to go
out and some cars turn it off quickly in those conditions.)
BTW, it doesn't make the engine actually warm up any quicker. It just causes
a hot spot so diesel will ignite.
Or are you thinking of something else???
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK DUTKO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
> The toyota yaris has an electric 12v pre-heater for cars in cold
> weather regions to heat up the car before the engine warms up. Does
> anyone think this could be used as the car heater in San Francisco
> climate? I have no idea what the wattage is. Perhaps it will not be
> efficient at 12v but it would be easy to use an will fit in the
> existing configuration with a few screws....
>
> Mark Dutko
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
To clarify- there is an electric 12v heater next to the ac condenser
in the cabin so that when the engine is cold you can get hot air in
the cabin until the car warms up to supply the normal cabin heat.
This heater is part of a "cold weather package" for certain US
markets. So when the engine coolant is cold and can't supply heat to
the cabin, the 12v heater warms the cabin initially. I thought I
might be able to use this instead of a ceramic heater, etc.
Mark
On Oct 17, 2006, at 8:03 PM, Michael Perry wrote:
A 12V heater? I thought these ran on 120V. It seems the Yaris batt
would die
pretty quickly if the engine is preheated.
Ah, I see... you are probably looking at the European diesel
models. Those
pre-heaters are very common. They don't heat up the engine or water
jacket... they ignite a glow plug in the engine. That's a very common
feature in diesel engines. When cold (below 40 degrees) diesels
require this
pre-heater glow plug. It causes a hot spot in the engine, so the
diesel
ignites quicker. It's used all the time in many engines... you turn
on the
key and wait for the light to go out... then crank the engine up
quickly.
(Above 40 degrees or so, you don't really need to wait for the
light to go
out and some cars turn it off quickly in those conditions.)
BTW, it doesn't make the engine actually warm up any quicker. It
just causes
a hot spot so diesel will ignite.
Or are you thinking of something else???
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK DUTKO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
The toyota yaris has an electric 12v pre-heater for cars in cold
weather regions to heat up the car before the engine warms up. Does
anyone think this could be used as the car heater in San Francisco
climate? I have no idea what the wattage is. Perhaps it will not be
efficient at 12v but it would be easy to use an will fit in the
existing configuration with a few screws....
Mark Dutko
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So in this case, getting an EV to drive like an automatic ICE is impossible
without using an automatic transmission?
I guess I'm curious as to if you can drive an EV like driving an automatic
ICE, practically never worry about shifting and take on anything (from going
75 on the interstate to taking a steep Portland hill on at 30 mph).
Start to wonder if it would be better off to have a Warp 9" instead...
-Adan
Lewis & Clark College
Portland, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: What's the most efficent way to connect my ADC 9" motor to a
car?
You've asked a contradiction there:
ADC motors are good to close to 6K.
6K RPMs in the average vehicle will take you to
perhaps 62.
To get to 70, you'll need 3rd.
In addition, there might on occasion be an extra steep
hill where you want 1st.
As a result, most EVers use a taperlock hub attached
to the manual tranny's flywheel.
My DVD has a good 5 minutes on the process.
peace,
--- Adan Vielma <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi,
I'm working on plans for an electric car and was
wondering if you would be so kind as to help me with
this question.
I was wondering what is the best way to connect an
ADC 9" motor to the power train that would give you
the most efficiency without having to shift gears
while driving?
Thanks so much for all your help with this! I'm
looking to get many inputs on this one as I know
there are pros and cons to every different way of
powering a car.
Have a wonderful day!
Sincerely,
Adan Vielma
Lewis & Clark College
Portland, Oregon
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
yes...the lighter the flywheel is better...
at least from a pure physics perspective...
less rotational intertia...
are you sure you even need a flywheel and a
transmission???
MARK DUTKO wrote:
I'm having my adaptor plate made for my 07 Yaris and was wondering what
you all thought about using a lightweight flywheel. The factory must be
20-25 lbs and the high performance one is 8lbs. I can get it for about
$200 and was wondering if would be worth it for overall weight
reduction and less weight spinning. (using clutch)
The ICE components on this car are only about 300-350 lbs! Plastic
tank, tiny radiator, etc. The curb weight is 2300 dry before ICE
removal. Best thing is a small AC compressor and electric power steering!
Also- I'm using a Warp 9 and Zilla 1k and was considering a LSD in the
transmission since it is FWD and does not have much traction. Any
thoughts?
Thanks,
Mark Dutko
SF
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael,
Mark was talking about a ceramic heater that can heat
the cabin AFTER the engine started, but is not yet up
to temp, so there is no hot water, as the thermostat
keeps the water from flowing into the heater core and
radiator, first the engine needs to be up to temp.
This is great if you pull the engine out and can
likely be sufficient for the mild SF winter.
THat is actually pretty neat!
Finding a gas car that is prepared in this detail to
have its engine taken out. Toyota must have thought
about these conversions ;-)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Perry
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 8:03 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
A 12V heater? I thought these ran on 120V. It seems the Yaris batt would die
pretty quickly if the engine is preheated.
Ah, I see... you are probably looking at the European diesel models. Those
pre-heaters are very common. They don't heat up the engine or water
jacket... they ignite a glow plug in the engine. That's a very common
feature in diesel engines. When cold (below 40 degrees) diesels require this
pre-heater glow plug. It causes a hot spot in the engine, so the diesel
ignites quicker. It's used all the time in many engines... you turn on the
key and wait for the light to go out... then crank the engine up quickly.
(Above 40 degrees or so, you don't really need to wait for the light to go
out and some cars turn it off quickly in those conditions.)
BTW, it doesn't make the engine actually warm up any quicker. It just causes
a hot spot so diesel will ignite.
Or are you thinking of something else???
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK DUTKO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
> The toyota yaris has an electric 12v pre-heater for cars in cold
> weather regions to heat up the car before the engine warms up. Does
> anyone think this could be used as the car heater in San Francisco
> climate? I have no idea what the wattage is. Perhaps it will not be
> efficient at 12v but it would be easy to use an will fit in the
> existing configuration with a few screws....
>
> Mark Dutko
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes- on tran, need the flywheel for the clutch...
On Oct 17, 2006, at 9:08 PM, Joel Hacker wrote:
yes...the lighter the flywheel is better...
at least from a pure physics perspective...
less rotational intertia...
are you sure you even need a flywheel and a
transmission???
MARK DUTKO wrote:
I'm having my adaptor plate made for my 07 Yaris and was
wondering what you all thought about using a lightweight
flywheel. The factory must be 20-25 lbs and the high performance
one is 8lbs. I can get it for about $200 and was wondering if
would be worth it for overall weight reduction and less weight
spinning. (using clutch)
The ICE components on this car are only about 300-350 lbs!
Plastic tank, tiny radiator, etc. The curb weight is 2300 dry
before ICE removal. Best thing is a small AC compressor and
electric power steering!
Also- I'm using a Warp 9 and Zilla 1k and was considering a LSD
in the transmission since it is FWD and does not have much
traction. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mark Dutko
SF
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks cor- even has electric power steering...
I can't find the heater specs in the manual so not sure if it will
work but would be any easy install.
On Oct 17, 2006, at 9:17 PM, Cor van de Water wrote:
Michael,
Mark was talking about a ceramic heater that can heat
the cabin AFTER the engine started, but is not yet up
to temp, so there is no hot water, as the thermostat
keeps the water from flowing into the heater core and
radiator, first the engine needs to be up to temp.
This is great if you pull the engine out and can
likely be sufficient for the mild SF winter.
THat is actually pretty neat!
Finding a gas car that is prepared in this detail to
have its engine taken out. Toyota must have thought
about these conversions ;-)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Perry
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 8:03 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
A 12V heater? I thought these ran on 120V. It seems the Yaris batt
would die
pretty quickly if the engine is preheated.
Ah, I see... you are probably looking at the European diesel
models. Those
pre-heaters are very common. They don't heat up the engine or water
jacket... they ignite a glow plug in the engine. That's a very common
feature in diesel engines. When cold (below 40 degrees) diesels
require this
pre-heater glow plug. It causes a hot spot in the engine, so the
diesel
ignites quicker. It's used all the time in many engines... you turn
on the
key and wait for the light to go out... then crank the engine up
quickly.
(Above 40 degrees or so, you don't really need to wait for the
light to go
out and some cars turn it off quickly in those conditions.)
BTW, it doesn't make the engine actually warm up any quicker. It
just causes
a hot spot so diesel will ignite.
Or are you thinking of something else???
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK DUTKO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: OEM ELECTRIC HEATER
The toyota yaris has an electric 12v pre-heater for cars in cold
weather regions to heat up the car before the engine warms up. Does
anyone think this could be used as the car heater in San Francisco
climate? I have no idea what the wattage is. Perhaps it will not be
efficient at 12v but it would be easy to use an will fit in the
existing configuration with a few screws....
Mark Dutko
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Oct 2006 at 20:09, Lock Hughes wrote:
> hybrid buses. ...
> GMs 2007 Saturn VUE ...
> Dodge Durango hybrid ...
AFAIK, all these are quasi-hybrid (all energy derived from liquid fuel)
applications. Cobasys has no quarrel with that and is quite happy to license
manufacturers who make small, quasi-hybrid-size batteries. It's large
capacity batteries usable in road EVs that they don't want anyone making or
selling. This is pretty transparent. Their intent, I think, is obvious.
AFAIK there is only one company licensed to make large NiMH batteries.
Gold Peak signed up before the restrictions were in place, back when
Cobasys was still Ovonics, and was producing small quantities of batteries
for Solectria and GM.
Gold Peak is based in Hong Kong. They manufacture batteries in Hong
Kong, Taiwan, and mainland China. Since they have the market for EV size
batteries to themselves, it's hard to imagine them pricing their product
aggressively unless they decide that competition from lithium is of concern.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you put the contacts in series the voltage rating the contacts can break
will double for the rated current. If you put the
contacts in parallel on the same line then the voltage rating will remain the
same but current carrying capacity will double, as
long as the actual voltage rating isn't exceeded. If you exceed both voltage
and current ratings of a single contactor or relay
then it would be best to search for another that has full ratings for both
voltage and current for which you will operate.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Adan Vielma
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:52 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Can 2 x contactors be put in series to handle more current?
>
>
> Hi all,
> I think I heard somewhere before that you can put two contactors in series to
> do something... would that be to handle a
> larger current load? E.g. if you were using contactors rated for 250 amps
> could you put 2 of them in series to handle 500 amps?
>
> Thanks so much for all your help!
> -Adan
> Lewis & Clark College
> Portland, Oregon
--- End Message ---
