--- Begin Message ---
Yes I believe it would.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave Cover
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:27
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: 250 amp breaker popping
--- "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> You would wire them exactly the same as the picture below. Basically
> you are looping current through all 3 breakers keeping them in series.
>
>
>
> Jody
>
Would this work?
________ _________
| | | |
| Pack 1 | ____ ______ | Pack 2 |
| | | | | | | |
| + - | | | | | | + - |
|________| )----)----) | |_________|
| | | | | | | |
| |_________| |____| |______| |
| |
| |
|_________________Load______________________|
Dave Cover
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Subject: RE: 250 amp breaker popping
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:19:17 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Fw: [a-w-h] NEW CERAMIC BATTERY BANK
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 07:17:39 -0700
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This is from another newsgroup, who knows, maybe it will work out!
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
To: "A-W-H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 1:03 PM
Subject: [a-w-h] NEW CERAMIC BATTERY BANK
> FOR THOSE interested.
>
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7033406.pdf
> The basic design is a capacitor a HUGEMONGOUS capacitor that has the
> capacity of being recharged millions of times and can be done in a few
> minutes.
>
> The patent makes reference to a 91 F (Farad) value
>
> The charged voltage could go as high as 3500 volts DC .
>
> The manufacturing process is very close or identical to the small ceramic
> capacitors used in electronics.
>
> So the inventor(s) had a great idea a Hugemoungous capacitor to store the
> necessary energy.
>
> The system may require an up voltage converter to be able to store enough
> power and as well to down convert to the necessary working voltage that with
> the present electronics the system is quite feasible .
>
> They are directing the ceramic storage medium to automobiles -- 250 miles
> and recharge in about 7 minutes for about U$0.90 dollars.
>
> I hope that this is a good a real product because it would take around 2 to
> 5 years to be able to set the proper manufacturing capabilities for such
> high volume of energy storage banks and not more any engines for most
> usages.
>
> Nando
>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 01:44:14 -0400
From: Michel Laverdure <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Good news (One more Ranger EV saved)
To: [email protected]
Message-id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="Boundary_(ID_R1zNonMIC5hAuJ5y6KbAmQ)"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--Boundary_(ID_R1zNonMIC5hAuJ5y6KbAmQ)
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My truck is now up and running after having the truck for a year on
Oct. 19 2006
This truck was part of the Montreal 2000 Electric Vehicle testing =
project.
Transport Canada got rid of the truck after having charging problem.
The Montreal Ford dealer estimated the cost of the repair around
$10000.00(part & work)
After doing the maintenance of the NiMH battery pack in September
- Replace battery #19, that had a bad cell
- Found a bad fuse holder in the contactor box
(Could be the original charging problem, fuse could move in the =
holder)
- Replace the connector C1935 that I smash in last November
when I removed the battery pack
Total cost of the repair $850.00 US for the battery from Magnetronix
e-bay item 4608519661 last January
Last Sunday (Oct. 15) instead of going to bed after my 12H night shift
I decided to reinstall the battery pack under my truck.
Took me 4H alone.
After clearing many DTC, it still would not charge (original problem)
After looking true the manual and resetting the time and day on the PCS.
And configuring it to charge as soon that I connect the EV.
I finally got the truck to charge after a second round of resetting the =
DTC.
On the first road test I tested every system like air conditioning,
heater, fan, wiper Etc.
Ran the truck on the highway up to max speed 123 Km/H (75MPH).
That first test ended after 42 Km where the fuel low light started to
flash. I was just two street away from home since I turned back at 50% =
SOC.
Today after the third recharge I did drive the truck in Economic mode
only. This time I got 60 Km with =BC left to the SOC. No time to extend
the test to a full discharge today.
Then just before I got home. I got the wrench light with the DTC
B2236 Weak or defective electric vehicle battery module fault
but I could not identify the bad battery.
Started the fourth charge and then we will see.
Michel Laverdure
1999 Ford Ranger EV NiMH
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Subject: Controller question
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:48:01 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I am installing my Curtis 1231C-8601 in my truck. I am installing it
with a large heat sink but I would like to put a 12 volt fan on it just
incase that is needed to keep it cool. My question is does anyone know
of a temperature device that I can use to measure the temperature of the
controller and send this to a (analog or digital) meter inside of the
truck. Then I would also like to install some sort of temperature
switch on the controller to turn the fan on and off as needed. I am not
looking at breaking the bank with this part of the project since my
funds are getting limited as I am nearing completion of my project.
=20
Thanks,=20
=20
Fred=20
=20
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Subject: Controller question
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:48:01 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Thread-Topic: Controller question
Thread-Index: AcbzjZOu2PQSryc4SC62IUONjw2N/g==
From: "Hartsell, Fred--
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MIME-Version: 1.0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: RE: Good news (One more Ranger EV saved)
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 11:05:06 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
That is great news. Good work on bringing another EV back to life.
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michel Laverdure
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 1:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Good news (One more Ranger EV saved)
My truck is now up and running after having the truck for a year on
Oct. 19 2006
This truck was part of the Montreal 2000 Electric Vehicle testing project.
Transport Canada got rid of the truck after having charging problem.
The Montreal Ford dealer estimated the cost of the repair around
$10000.00(part & work)
After doing the maintenance of the NiMH battery pack in September
- Replace battery #19, that had a bad cell
- Found a bad fuse holder in the contactor box
(Could be the original charging problem, fuse could move in the holder)
- Replace the connector C1935 that I smash in last November
when I removed the battery pack
Total cost of the repair $850.00 US for the battery from Magnetronix
e-bay item 4608519661 last January
Last Sunday (Oct. 15) instead of going to bed after my 12H night shift
I decided to reinstall the battery pack under my truck.
Took me 4H alone.
After clearing many DTC, it still would not charge (original problem)
After looking true the manual and resetting the time and day on the PCS.
And configuring it to charge as soon that I connect the EV.
I finally got the truck to charge after a second round of resetting the DTC.
On the first road test I tested every system like air conditioning,
heater, fan, wiper Etc.
Ran the truck on the highway up to max speed 123 Km/H (75MPH).
That first test ended after 42 Km where the fuel low light started to
flash. I was just two street away from home since I turned back at 50% SOC.
Today after the third recharge I did drive the truck in Economic mode
only. This time I got 60 Km with ¼ left to the SOC. No time to extend
the test to a full discharge today.
Then just before I got home. I got the wrench light with the DTC
B2236 Weak or defective electric vehicle battery module fault
but I could not identify the bad battery.
Started the fourth charge and then we will see.
Michel Laverdure
1999 Ford Ranger EV NiMH
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:21:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chet Fields <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: New Battery Technology Achieves 100 Miles with Hybrid Electri c
Vehicles
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Not sure why it would need to be 34 mph as the ICE should
> not come until 42 mph according to the info I can find,
> though there seems to be a difference in operation
> between below 34 mph and between 34 and 42 mph, but I
> cannot find a clarification of that difference.
The 34 mph limit is in *EV mode* only. When in *normal mode* there really isn't
a limit to running on *electric only* power. However, if the vehicle speed is
at 42 mph one of the motor generators (MG1) will be spinning at 10,000 RPM if
the ICE is not spinning. In order to protect it from spinning any faster than
this max rating, the hybrid computer causes the ICE to start to *spin*. So the
ICE has to at least *spin* at any speed over 42 mph.
Now, whether or not spark and fuel are applied only depend on the power desired
(for acceleration, grade, etc) and the state of charge of the battery. With a
PHEV setup this would stay higher longer.
However, in *EV mode* the computer does allow a bit more current draw before it
kicks itself out of EV mode into normal mode to start the ICE for more power.
In normal mode the current draw limit is lowered a bit. This is the advantage
of EV mode below 34 mph. And perhaps also that the ICE does not need to be
warmed up first.
So it is not even really necessary that the PHEV version run in *EV mode*
except that the ICE will run for a minute or so at start up and then the
current at low speeds will be more limited and allow the ICE to supplement the
higher power requirements a little more often. But if you don't push that hard
on the accelerator ...
Regards,
Chet
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 16:19:13 +0100
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Good news (One more Ranger EV saved)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Could everyone make sure they are not sending attachments or HTML mail
please, as many mail programs are only displaying the text part which
the list server replaces it with (see below) - many messages have been
affected by this in the last few days. Thanks.
Also, congratulations on your good news ;)
On 10/19/06, Michel Laverdure <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
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>
>
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Subject: RE: Controller question
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:25:46 -0700
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I built a bunch of these to cool some of my other accessories and it
works fairly well, cheap too.
http://www.heatsink-guide.com/content.php?content=control.shtml
Enjoy
John Grigg
Fred Said:
"I am installing my Curtis 1231C-8601 in my truck. I am installing it
with a large heat sink but I would like to put a 12 volt fan on it just
incase that is needed to keep it cool. My question is does anyone know
of a temperature device that I can use to measure the temperature of the
controller and send this to a (analog or digital) meter inside of the
truck. Then I would also like to install some sort of temperature
switch on the controller to turn the fan on and off as needed. I am not
looking at breaking the bank with this part of the project since my
funds are getting limited as I am nearing completion of my project."
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:32:30 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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Lets add it up:
Motor 500 to 800 on the street
Controller 782
Adapter plate/coupler 775 dollars
potbox 65 dollars
So for 2100 to 2400 dollars you could buy the same components from KTA or EV
parts. Seems like typical business practices. Sell it for less. The
American way. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
> > So I wonder if this is e-volks
> >
> > $2000 for a D&D motor - adapter kit for VW on E-bay
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/yzgvo6
> >
> > need batteries , VW glider , etc.
> >
> > Is this a good price for a starter EV ?
> >
>
> Don't think these are the same people, just a few items for sale but
> high quality stuff - these items are worth more than they are asking,
> based on the retail prices at EVParts.
>
>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 15:37:29 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Lightning Ryan <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Prius battery pack (OEM cooling)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Ah yes, we've exchanged an email once. How is your vehicle doing? Get
any more miles on it?
Here's my two bits.
The Prius batterys will get hot from charging at even 2 amps. During
the oxygen recombination cycle during the last 30% of the charge
cycle, they build alot of pressure and the temperature starts to rise
in a linear fashion. The higher the charge voltage the higher the
temperature. This is true unless thermal runaway it acheived.
I had thermal monitoring on each of the 10 packs I used. It was very
valuable info. The monitoring controlled an individual fan for each
pack in a multi pack parallel configuration. The Prius packs need
airflow mostly during charging. During dishcarge of up to 250 amps
peak, they barely even warmed up. But if discharged long enough at a
high rate they would get as warm as charging at only a couple amps.
But the energy would run out by then usually.
I put about 500-600 miles on the 01-03 Prius Nimh packs when I decided
that they were too voluminous for my vehicle. The extra circuitry
required for the thermal monitoring, the fans, and also for relay
cutout were making it too time consuming as every thing had to be
designed and tested from scratch. For R & D it was great. But for a
daily driver is was too much work. Fans and thermal monitoring are a
must for using Prius packs that will last any appreciable amount of time.
The Prius packs are very low impedance. We measured each module at 7
milliohms. So with 5 packs in parallel I had alot of peak current
available at any given time. Regen was so strong that the rear tires
would almost break loose during deceleration.
The night I forgot to turn the power on to the fans and cooked 2 of
the packs while charging at just a couple amps, none of the built in
pressure/temperature vents on the modules opened. The failure for
100% of the failed modules were that the thermal well where the
factory thermistors are placed, cracked open and allowed KOH to spew
all over the interior of the pack. KOH is also not good for paint :) I
thought Toyota should know but they would just say I was misusing the
packs. This is a design failure for at least the 01-03 packs.
Consequently the truck is now powered by the BB600 Military surplus
nicads. By this weekend I will have 1000 miles on them in only about 7
weeks. They will get a BMS. They do have thermal monitoring, but never
get over 107F. Max spec during discharge is 160F and 120F for
charging. So they don't need air cooling for that reason and the
military spec does not require it. This makes for much less R & D for
adapting them to an EV. They do have to be watered. But I have not
added any water other than the first sanity check on them at 300
miles. I'll check them again around 1300 miles. The interior of my
battery box shows no signs of cell venting. I attribute this to the
low current high voltage Hughes AC system in the truck.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> There is this project... http://www.electric7.com/
>
> I have some experience with the Prius packs, one thing to note
> is the thermal management Toyota uses. The modules (6 cells)
> are stacked in such a manner as to create a small air gap between
> each module. Then there are sealed areas both above and below
> the pack created by the metal case and some foam rubber stripping.
> The cooling fan then creates a high pressure area in the sealed
> region above the pack which forces an equal amount of air down
> between each module and then out via the passage at the bottom.
> It may be difficult to recreate this situation in a custom stack of
> modules but not impossible... Just though I would pass that along.
>
> Not even sure that it's required, most of the heating is a result
> of high rate charging at around 100 amps, I don't think they make
> much heat during discharge at those same levels.
>
> L8r
> Ryan
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > Anybody out there who is biulding an EV using a bunch of used Prius
> > batteries? I would like to hear their experiences, thanks
> > JJ
> >
>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 15:43:02 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Michel Laverdure <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Good news (One more Ranger EV saved)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Michel,
Nice work! And lots of it!
Be careful taking a used and aged pack down very far as it makes it
very easy to reverse and damage a cell. This becomes more true as the
pack ages and gets more miles on it. I'd consider 25% remaining to be
the new "Empty". Nimh can discharge to 0% but when in a series string,
the threat of reversal is quite high.
Please post a link with pictures of your hard work!
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Michel Laverdure <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> My truck is now up and running after having the truck for a year on
> Oct. 19 2006
>
> This truck was part of the Montreal 2000 Electric Vehicle testing
project.
> Transport Canada got rid of the truck after having charging problem.
> The Montreal Ford dealer estimated the cost of the repair around
> $10000.00(part & work)
>
> After doing the maintenance of the NiMH battery pack in September
> - Replace battery #19, that had a bad cell
> - Found a bad fuse holder in the contactor box
> (Could be the original charging problem, fuse could move in the
holder)
> - Replace the connector C1935 that I smash in last November
> when I removed the battery pack
>
> Total cost of the repair $850.00 US for the battery from Magnetronix
> e-bay item 4608519661 last January
>
> Last Sunday (Oct. 15) instead of going to bed after my 12H night shift
> I decided to reinstall the battery pack under my truck.
> Took me 4H alone.
>
> After clearing many DTC, it still would not charge (original problem)
>
> After looking true the manual and resetting the time and day on the PCS.
> And configuring it to charge as soon that I connect the EV.
>
> I finally got the truck to charge after a second round of resetting
the DTC.
>
> On the first road test I tested every system like air conditioning,
> heater, fan, wiper Etc.
>
> Ran the truck on the highway up to max speed 123 Km/H (75MPH).
> That first test ended after 42 Km where the fuel low light started to
> flash. I was just two street away from home since I turned back at
50% SOC.
>
> Today after the third recharge I did drive the truck in Economic mode
> only. This time I got 60 Km with ¼ left to the SOC. No time to extend
> the test to a full discharge today.
>
> Then just before I got home. I got the wrench light with the DTC
> B2236 Weak or defective electric vehicle battery module fault
> but I could not identify the bad battery.
>
> Started the fourth charge and then we will see.
>
>
> Michel Laverdure
> 1999 Ford Ranger EV NiMH
>
> ----------
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:49:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Lightweight Flywheel? Limited Slip Diff
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I forget which company, but one company would put a resistor across the motor
whenever the clutch was pushed in (or maybe it was shift lever in neutral).
This would quickly slow the motor when it was unloaded.
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 6:23:13 AM
Subject: Re: Lightweight Flywheel? Limited Slip Diff
Even with a clutch, shifting an EV is actually a pain. There is no
compression to pull the rpms down for the shift. If I had something on
the tail shaft like an alternator or a generator head for regen, I would
engauge it with a switch on the clutch pedal just to speed up shifting.
I have a racing clutch that has no springs in the disks, It assumes
compression and a light flywheel which in the ICE world allows the rpms
to drop fast. Unfortunantly I have to count to 3 or 4 each shift or the
driveline rings from the shock. :-( . It is a non slippable clutch and
may not have been the ideal choice, i can't use the clutch to drag down
the rpm for the shift.
Subject: shunt mV
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 11:56:14 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
If I read mVolts off a shunt (looks like the Emeter size).
would 10.0 mV = 100 Amps
22.0 mV = 220 Amps
etc.?
Or how else would I figure out the drop across it (it's really hidden,
right between the motor and batteries, but it looks like the emeter type
shunt).
Since it is on the motor side it would be impossible to amp clamp it and
read it simultaneously
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 15:59:31 -0000
From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Why does the adapter/coupler cost so much ??
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> Lets add it up:
> Motor 500 to 800 on the street
> Controller 782
> Adapter plate/coupler 775 dollars
> potbox 65 dollars
> So for 2100 to 2400 dollars you could buy the same components from
KTA or EV
> parts. Seems like typical business practices. Sell it for less.
The
> American way. Lawrence Rhodes.....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 12:05 AM
> Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
>
>
> > > So I wonder if this is e-volks
> > >
> > > $2000 for a D&D motor - adapter kit for VW on E-bay
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/yzgvo6
> > >
> > > need batteries , VW glider , etc.
> > >
> > > Is this a good price for a starter EV ?
> > >
> >
> > Don't think these are the same people, just a few items for sale
but
> > high quality stuff - these items are worth more than they are
asking,
> > based on the retail prices at EVParts.
> >
> >
>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thin-skinned? Re: Small request
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 12:00:28 -0400
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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With cautious reserve, I thought I would add an observation about this topic.
Most replies offered on this list do include details of the subject. However,
the information is often overwhelmed and overshadowed by the delivery. Far too
often the information is delivered very brutally. People are bashed for their
particular interest and opinions. I believe this list would be far more
effective if there were less personal bashing.
If the sharing of information was the focal point of the list, then the
thickness of ones skin would not be an issue.
Best Regards,
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 6:56 PM
Subject: Thin-skinned? Re: Small request
> I think it's a fair request, and many of you live up to that. But
without
> naming any names, some on the list such as Death to All Spammers
(oops, it
> slipped) really leave a bad feeling in this regard.
>
>
Read my last post to you - clearly and extensively states the reasons
for my doubts of your EV expectations and gives alternatives.
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free
AOL Mail and more.
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* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
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* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 12:02:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery spam mail
To: [email protected]
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I hate Spam as much as anyone but if only used with electric vehicles I am
fine with it as long as it is meaningful and valid information.
If it is on new and better batteries and real bring it on.
Don
In a message dated 10/19/2006 3:12:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
On 19 Oct 2006 at 18:47, James Massey wrote:
> wondered if they were harvesting addresses
> from the EVDL.
Probably. The list is archived in a lot of places, and not all of them
protect
the email addresses.
The easy answer is to use a disposable address for the list, such as one of
the ad-supported webmail services. It doesn't stop the spam, but when it
gets too bad, you abandon it and open another account.
A better antispam dodge is to subscribe from two addresses. Use one for
posting only. Set it to NOMAIL, and discard all incoming mail on that
address to get rid of spam. Use the other for receiving mail from the list
(that
one can be your regular address) and NEVER post from that address.
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* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
-------------------------------1161273737--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:49:49 -0700
From: Geoff Linkleter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EV Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Wacky 2 speed idea
MIME-Version: 1.0
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I've wondered about doing this using the overdrive unit off something like an
old Volvo. You then get a 2 speed box with electric switch actuation. The
problem is that with direct connection to the electric motor there is no overal
ratio reduction...it would be like driving with the manual box having only 4th
and 5th avaialable
There are ways round this.... chain drive to motor or change crown wheel and
pinion but they are starting to get complex and / or expensive.
You would also need to do an electric reverse.
One of these days when I'm rich and have nothing else to do.......!
Geoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Controller question
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:21:21 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Look into 80mm computer 12v fans, there are some, fairly cheap, that have
builtin temp controls on them, the hotter the air they're moving, the faster
they run.
might be what you're looking for, will need to mount i in the middle of the
heatsink (flat against it if it's finned), pulling air from it so it reads
the temps right :o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: Controller question
I am installing my Curtis 1231C-8601 in my truck. I am installing it
with a large heat sink but I would like to put a 12 volt fan on it just
incase that is needed to keep it cool. My question is does anyone know
of a temperature device that I can use to measure the temperature of the
controller and send this to a (analog or digital) meter inside of the
truck. Then I would also like to install some sort of temperature
switch on the controller to turn the fan on and off as needed. I am not
looking at breaking the bank with this part of the project since my
funds are getting limited as I am nearing completion of my project.
Thanks,
Fred
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: 250 amp breaker popping
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:09:12 -0700
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Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Here is another alternative:
________ _________
| | | |
| Pack 1 | | Pack 2 |
| | | |
| + - | | + - |
|________| |_________|
| | | |
| |__________)....)--+ | |
| | | |
| +---------+ | |
| | | |
| |_)....)_________________| |
| |
|_______________)....)______________________|
If you look on my website, I show how I wired in a 3 phase breaker to split
my pack: http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_HighVoltageSystem.html
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave Cover
Sent: October 19, 2006 6:27 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: 250 amp breaker popping
--- "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You would wire them exactly the same as the picture below. Basically
> you are looping current through all 3 breakers keeping them in series.
>
>
>
> Jody
>
Would this work?
________ _________
| | | |
| Pack 1 | ____ ______ | Pack 2 |
| | | | | | | |
| + - | | | | | | + - |
|________| )----)----) | |_________|
| | | | | | | |
| |_________| |____| |______| |
| |
| |
|_________________Load______________________|
Dave Cover
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:33:25 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
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Actuallky, EVParts only charges $650 for the motor adapoter plate AND a
taperlock hub for mounting the flywheel.
This ebay setup is clutchless, no flywheel. That would be similar to
EVparts plate only ($200) plus /maybe/ $50 for the shaft coupler.
> Lets add it up:
> Motor 500 to 800 on the street
> Controller 782
> Adapter plate/coupler 775 dollars
> potbox 65 dollars
> So for 2100 to 2400 dollars you could buy the same components from KTA or
> EV
> parts. Seems like typical business practices. Sell it for less. The
> American way. Lawrence Rhodes.....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 12:05 AM
> Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
>
>
>> > So I wonder if this is e-volks
>> >
>> > $2000 for a D&D motor - adapter kit for VW on E-bay
>> >
>> > http://tinyurl.com/yzgvo6
>> >
>> > need batteries , VW glider , etc.
>> >
>> > Is this a good price for a starter EV ?
>> >
>>
>> Don't think these are the same people, just a few items for sale but
>> high quality stuff - these items are worth more than they are asking,
>> based on the retail prices at EVParts.
>>
>>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:36:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
jmygann, sincere question, are you selling adaptors? For how much?
I used to think adaptors were overpriced, until I started making one!
I tried pricing my adaptor design in emachineshop. It was alot more than the
typical ~$800 for small quantities, but was cheaper for large quantities.
Even racing bellhousings, that are literally stamped out or molded by machines,
cost $100 to $500.
If someone thinks they can sell them cheaper, power to you and please start
advertising!
So to answer your original question, maybe $50 to $150 (steel vs. Al) for
materials. You need at least $1000 of machining equipment, and alot more for
CNC would be reasonable. I'm guessing it would be about a day of labor
(remember answering questions, taking the order, buying materials, building it,
and shipping). Even if you could build 1 a day, and make an optimistic $400 /
adaptor, optimistically you are clearing $100k a year -- not alot to keep a
shop going. Maybe with CNC, and making adaptors in batches, some economies of
scale could improve this.
----- Original Message ----
From: jmygann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Lawrence Rhodes <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:59:31 AM
Subject: Re: E-volks now offering a series motor ??
Why does the adapter/coupler cost so much ??
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> ...
> Adapter plate/coupler 775 dollars ...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 08:18:07 -0700
From: Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: CVT Re: Lightweight Flywheel? Limited Slip Diff
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
There is an electric '48 Anglia that uses a Polaris CVT (Continously
Variable Transmission). He said the CVT gives you 4:1 to overdrive. no
shifting needed. The car was powered by only a little Etek motor (who
said they were only good for a motorcycle.. :), with only 72 volts, it
will go 40mph. I couldn't find an online price for these CVTs, they are
used in snowmobiles and quad runners, I imagine they are not cheap,
certainly ompared to the free transmission you get in a donor car.
Jack
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Even with a clutch, shifting an EV is actually a pain. There is no
> compression to pull the rpms down for the shift. If I had something on
> the tail shaft like an alternator or a generator head for regen, I would
> engauge it with a switch on the clutch pedal just to speed up shifting.
> I have a racing clutch that has no springs in the disks, It assumes
> compression and a light flywheel which in the ICE world allows the rpms
> to drop fast. Unfortunantly I have to count to 3 or 4 each shift or the
> driveline rings from the shock. :-( . It is a non slippable clutch and
> may not have been the ideal choice, i can't use the clutch to drag down
> the rpm for the shift.
>
>
--- End Message ---
