EV Digest 6087
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Getting the most power out of a forklift motor
by john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Series/parallel switch, was: Re: 2X Alltrax = Curtis ?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Zapi controllers ?
by "Seth Myers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: [BULK] Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: EV pusher Trailer
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: EV pusher Trailer
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Lithium-ion batteries & Valence Group buy
by "bortel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Hollow EV Horror TRICK AND TREAT
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: EV pusher Trailer
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: ceramic heater core mounting
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Considering Conversion Cars
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Im new, Looking to convert
by "Brandon Kruger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Lithium-ion batteries & Valence Group buy
by "Brandon Kruger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) EVDL Mouse 600 Amp. controller
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: EVDL Mouse 600 Amp. controller
by "Brandon Kruger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: ceramic heater core mounting
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Discharging in series and charging in parallel
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: EV controllers? the 4th option...
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Zapi controllers ?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Series/parallel switch, was: Re: 2X Alltrax = Curtis ?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: EVCL Mouse 600 Amp. controller
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Discharging in series and charging in parallel
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Discharging in series and charging in parallel
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) OT: Yaris heater
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: OT: Yaris heater
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Im debating on whether to use a CVT on a forklift motor, for a pocket bike
project that i have in the works. Ideally where do i want to keep the motor
rpms at to get the best acceleration, as this is a drag pocket bike. My idea
was that the cvt would help to keep the motor rpms down so as not to loose
torque as rpms increased, i guess that would be keeping it at peak hp??
Anyways any thoughts on this?
---------------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---
At 10:32 AM 1/11/06 -0600, Lee Hart wrote:
James Massey wrote:
If you're not reversing the motors, or the reversing contactors are after
the series/parallel contactors, an external freewheel diode of suitable
rating across each motor will take care of that. Just as
long as the controller is shut off before switching should be OK.
The controller can shut off its transistors instantly. But it will take
the motors a significant fraction of a second for their current to ramp
back down to zero, since they are shorted during this time by the
controller's freewheel diodes.
Series/parallel contactors inevitably have an in-between position as they
move when both contacts are open. If you try to switch them while motor
current is flowing, you get a huge amount of arcing and the transient
voltage can be very high.
Unless there is an external freewheel diode across each motor, then the
sequence could be:
- command the controller off (current is flowing via the controller
freewheel diodes, or through the external freewheel diodes, or some of both)
- open the series contactors (current is now flowing completely via the
external freewheel diodes)
- close the parallel contactors (current is again flowing via the
controller freewheel diodes, or through the external freewheel diodes, or
some of both)
- command the controller on
If the external freewheel diodes are something like the power schottky
diodes that are in some high power inverter welders, or even IIRC
conventional fast diode (such as SanRex FRN300BA60 600V/300A from a 40kHz
switching welder that is sitting on my desk) it may be possible to be
putting most of the freewheel current through the external diode (or paired
diodes), if running a Curtis or similar controller this would make the
controller run cooler, and therefore harder for longer. What the power
devices in the controller would "think" about this I have no idea.
Of course if the controller is smart enough to measure motor current this
would be inadvisable, although putting two diodes in series for the
external freewheel would keep the normal flow through the controller and
only the switchover current through the diodes (which would only need to be
slow diodes).
So where is the problem?
Regards
[Technik] James
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--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Mike Chancey wrote:
Interesting timing on this. I was just commenting to several other
EVers about the gap between the Curtis and Zilla, and the
potentially limited availability of either one. If either Curtis or
Otmar decide to follow other priorities, we could soon find ourselves
in a serious pinch.
That is indeed close to the root of the problem. Making controllers
for on-the-road EVs is not a good business. Sales will be very low.
This virtually guarantees they will be hand-made, and price will be
high. EVers have very high expectations, are very hard on controllers,
and notorious cheapskates; there will be lots of complaining about
price, lots of warranty returns, and lots of customer support.
Think of it from the point of view of a businessman; why SHOULD he
build controllers? No one has provided any reasons why he should bother!
I think thats why some are pushing for an "open source" style design.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(was "Ev Controllers- (n)th option")
Jeff Shanab wrote:
I think what has been pointed out as missing is a good, highpower sepex.
So the DC hobbiest can get regen.
Jim can rewind the fields for sep-ex.
and Lee hart wrote:
Putting a high-voltage, low-current field winding on a motor is easy. The
problem is that running it with a weak field will increase arcing. Using
it for regen, where the current is reversed, increases arcing still more.
To do it right, you have to do more to the motor so it will survive
running with a high or reversed armature current and weak field. This
requires either movable brush rigging, interpoles, compensation windings,
or some combination.
Zapi makes dc controllers with regen, right? any experience or
stories/prices for those?
I saw some converter who (was going to?) put them in light kit cars, it
looked like,
and get up to 800 amps or something, with regen, etc. Not sure what motors,
though.
Seth Myers
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--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Lile wrote:
None of this, of course, is germane to EV's, which need real fuses, real
circuit breakers, and Anderson disconnects. To bring the discussion
back On Topic, I've heard people recommend a fuse AND a circuit breaker
in a battery circuit. In addition to a middle-of-pack disconnect with a
big red button on it. Opinions?
A middle-of-pack disconnect _is_ a circuit breaker. Some circuit
breakers have over current trip. Some don't, and are considered "switch
only". In it's strictest sense, and "circuit breaker" is exactly that
-- a device that breaks (opens) the circuit so that current cannot flow.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
Lee Hart wrote:
Mike Chancey wrote:
Interesting timing on this. I was just commenting to several other
EVers about the gap between the Curtis and Zilla, and the
potentially limited availability of either one. If either Curtis or
Otmar decide to follow other priorities, we could soon find ourselves
in a serious pinch.
That is indeed close to the root of the problem. Making controllers
for on-the-road EVs is not a good business. Sales will be very low.
This virtually guarantees they will be hand-made, and price will be
high. EVers have very high expectations, are very hard on controllers,
and notorious cheapskates; there will be lots of complaining about
price, lots of warranty returns, and lots of customer support.
Think of it from the point of view of a businessman; why SHOULD he
build controllers? No one has provided any reasons why he should bother!
I think thats why some are pushing for an "open source" style design.
Wouldn't that provide even more disincentive that others are actively
trying to create one that is free? Personally I think the more choices
the better, but IMO actively discouraging creation of what you need by
asking for it free is counter-productive.
Many new developments are funded by unmet needs, for hobby though, there
is only want, and not real need. Its when someone makes money with
something that they will pay to get it.
I think the electric Taxi idea floated before is a good example of what
can really drive product development.
Jack
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--- Begin Message ---
I don't know how he got around the law, but there's one that operates in
Eugene OR... street legal.
> I think pusher trailers are a great idea. What I'm wondering is, is it
> legal for a trailer to be powered? If that's the case, you could have a
> car
> with no engine/motor at all and rely on the pusher trailer to power it
> forward... Can this be street legal?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Many transit buses are that configuration. (The double piece buses
around here all have the engine in the trailer.)
At 12:21 PM 11/1/2006, Michael wrote:
I don't know how he got around the law, but there's one that operates in
Eugene OR... street legal.
> I think pusher trailers are a great idea. What I'm wondering is, is it
> legal for a trailer to be powered? If that's the case, you could have a
> car
> with no engine/motor at all and rely on the pusher trailer to power it
> forward... Can this be street legal?
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Add me to the list. I need a set to fit a Sparrow.
Dan
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--- Begin Message ---
Free is a bit of a misnomer. The controller would be far from free
when you consider the cost of building it yourself. Add to that the
cost of your time and the fact that you get no support or warranty.
Building the design and getting it working would also be beyond the
capabilities of most people.
I believe an open design would create more options to the end consumer
by enabling small companies to enter the market without a large
initial investment. The open robot motor controller mentioned earlier
is a nice example were several companies have sprung up manufacturing
and supporting an open hardware design.
-Peter
Wouldn't that provide even more disincentive that others are actively
trying to create one that is free? Personally I think the more choices
the better, but IMO actively discouraging creation of what you need by
asking for it free is counter-productive.
Many new developments are funded by unmet needs, for hobby though, there
is only want, and not real need. Its when someone makes money with
something that they will pay to get it.
I think the electric Taxi idea floated before is a good example of what
can really drive product development.
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Dennis
Well I see I'm not the only Halloween guy here at the
list! I ran through close to a 1000 people (counting
the repeat kids) last night in my yardhaunt. Hope all
had a great holiday! Maybe a tad off topic but I do
use old lift truck motors to drive some props, hehe.
Cya
Jim
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have got my electrac set up to drive itself
> and to pull a skelton
> holding a hersey bar down my long rocky driveway
> tommorow night.With co2 fire
> exes and firecrackers the neighbor kids will
> remember this for a while! Dennis
> Kilowatt
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's cheap PC-to-Phone call rates
(http://voice.yahoo.com)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> Many transit buses are that configuration. (The double piece buses
> around here all have the engine in the trailer.)
True, but an articulated bus is a single unit/vehicle, and the joint
between the segments is more sophisticated than a simple trailer hitch.
I think the key here is that while an articulated bus may have a
flexible joint along its length, the two pieces are "permanently"
connected as a single vehicle, unlike a vehicle and trailer linked by a
common trailer hitch.
I'm not sure that anyone has established that there is anything illegal
about having a self-propelled trailer, they have merely asked if this
would be an issue, especially if taken to the extreme of having *all* of
the propulsion in the trailer and none in the vehicle itself.
I'm not sure if this is illegal here (Vancouver, BC), but it would
certainly pose some ethical questions and would likely become illegal
fairly quickly due to the impact it might have on our emission testing
program. Clearly there is no requirement at present for a trailer to be
brought in for emission testing, and there is (AFAIK) no provision for
stating a fuel type when registering a trailer. So, there would be
nothing to prevent me from rigging up a gross polluter as a pusher
trailer and using it to push a non-powered vehicle around, completely
circumventing the intent of the emission testing program. While we are
obviously more interested in electric powered pushers, etc., it is
unlikely that the bureaucrats would allow special treatment for EV
trailers vs ICE ones (easier to simply boycott all of them). A further
complication is that I'm not sure there is presently any provision for
registering a vehicle with a fuel type of "none" for the unpowered
vehicle one would push with their pusher...
In terms of EVs, my EV is exempt from emission testing as a result of
being registered with a fuel type of "electric", but if I built an
ICE-powered range extender for it (pusher or genset), then I believe the
pair should be considered to be an ICE vehicle when the range extender
is used, and I should be required to have the ICE range extender
emission tested just as any other ICE vehicle. While there is always
some debate over the accuracy of emission test results, there really
isn't any other means readily available to me to verify that I'm not
polluting more with my range-extended EV than if I simply made the trip
in my emission tested ICE vehicle instead.
Cheers,
Roger.
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--- Begin Message ---
What would be the benefit? You want the ceramic
heater in the same box as the original, but you want
_unimpeded air flow_.
Putting it inside the original core would likely
impede that flow. And on the top, you've got
electrical leads that need to be isolated from each
other. The original core is metal, and if they
touched the original core, you've got a short...
peace,
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I am thinking I seen someone who cut the center out
> of their original heater core and mounted the
> ceramic core in it? I can't rmember where I seen it
> or how it was mounted. I am thinking of doing this
> and setting it in there with some kind of high temp
> silicone sealer surounding it. Will this work????
>
> Tom
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New
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--- Begin Message ---
This will sound like a broken record to some LISTers,
but I chose the Civic because I like the look; there
are lots of parts (Honda still cranks out 25K of these
per MONTH), and _someone else had done it_.
Perhaps some like re-inventing the wheel, but I was
quite happy to know that if I just did X, Y, and Z,
everything would fit pretty easily.
peace,
--- "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I just bought a Porsche 914 1974' and I have to
> install a frame since it folded in half due to
> age/rust and poor design. Apparently this vehicle
> never came with a frame so one has to be installed;
> I got from reinforcement specialties and a MIG
> welder from Northern Tool. (Harbor Frieght has a
> cheaper one but looks cheaper :-)
>
> the VW adapter bolted up with the bug
> singlelywheel (the Porsche has 5 bolts
>
> Cheers,
> Mark
>
>
> From: "Phil Marino"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
> [email protected] Subject: RE: considering
> conversion cars Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 08:03:06
> -0500 Plain Text Attachment [ Scan and Save to
> Computer | Save to Yahoo! Briefcase ]
>
>
> How about a Toyota Echo? Low Cd, (.29), low
> weight (2050) and it's easy and cheap to upgrade the
> suspension with Scion xB components ( people
> upgrade the Xb a lot, so there are used XB parts
> cheap on Ebay) phil >From: Jeremy Rutman
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To:
> [email protected] >To: [email protected]
> >Subject: considering conversion cars >Date: Mon,
> 30 Oct 2006 10:30:14 +0200 > >I am looking at
> either the Fiat Uno or the Suzuki Swift as
> conversion cars. >They have similar frontal area
> (1.58m x 1.35m vs 1.55m x 1.42m) >and weight (887kg
> vs. 845kg). >Does any one have any recommendations
> for better cheap/common cars for >conversion? >
> > >Jeremy Rutman >Technion Physics Dep't >Haifa
> 32000 >Israel >972 4 8293669 >
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and see which of your friends are
> online - Right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited
(http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited)
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--- Begin Message ---
There is not any lack of designs, Otmar gives the schematic for a curtis
controller on his website, so there you go, build a curtis clone.
I just don't see anyone willing to invest the time and money to confirm
it works just to have some other person copy it and sell a kit, and then
have a price war over who will sell it cheapest, which is what happens.
Good for the end consumer, yes, but it isn't for the person that did the
hard work.
BTW, I looked it over, where is the buck converter part of it?
I just see it doing PWM on the transiter. Also while I have Lee's
attention, my AC controller switches both the high and low side,
the high side transister uses the body diode for the motor loop,
why not put the transitor on the high side for a DC controller so you
can use that diode, and not require another one?
It seems to work fine for low voltage low current 2hp motor that I've tried.
Jack
Peter Gabrielsson wrote:
Free is a bit of a misnomer. The controller would be far from free
when you consider the cost of building it yourself. Add to that the
cost of your time and the fact that you get no support or warranty.
Building the design and getting it working would also be beyond the
capabilities of most people.
I believe an open design would create more options to the end consumer
by enabling small companies to enter the market without a large
initial investment. The open robot motor controller mentioned earlier
is a nice example were several companies have sprung up manufacturing
and supporting an open hardware design.
-Peter
Wouldn't that provide even more disincentive that others are actively
trying to create one that is free? Personally I think the more choices
the better, but IMO actively discouraging creation of what you need by
asking for it free is counter-productive.
Many new developments are funded by unmet needs, for hobby though, there
is only want, and not real need. Its when someone makes money with
something that they will pay to get it.
I think the electric Taxi idea floated before is a good example of what
can really drive product development.
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Id be interested, but I doubt I could afford them. I'd like to see a spec
sheet and final prices after discount if I can get some.
Thanks,
Brandon Kruger
On 11/1/06, Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Before you get a group together, I'm testing these
batteries. http://www.zqpt.com/english/yysl.asp.
I'm working to negotiate the price way down. I'm also
working to secure some major financial backing to
accomplish this. Left Coast has been very quiet lately
because our main focus has been getting the company
funded properly. Look for us to be offering the
products you have been looking for. 'nuff said.
Gadget
Maybe.
I guess there is a discount after 50 units, not sure
how much?
If we could start a list of people who are interested.
-Tehben
On Oct 31, 2006, at 1:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I am and have posted several times the information
from Valence.
>
> Don
>
> In a message dated 10/31/2006 12:10:53 PM Pacific
Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> Are there other people interested in a Valence
group buy? The rep
> told me
> of about 40 to 50% discount with high volume.
>
> JJ
>
>> On 8 Oct 2006 at 11:29, GWMobile wrote:
>>
>>> I encourage to actual get the batteries you want
from the start
and
>>> not listen to those who say start with what you
don't want and
>>> upgrade later.
>>
>> I was going through some old unread messages and I
came across this
>> note. It may be that this has already been
addressed; if so
>> disregard
>> this.
>>
>> I think the above advice is inappropriate for new
EV hobbyists,
>> unless
>> "the batteries you want" are either very sturdy
and economical
>> (such as
>> golf car batteries), or else the battery love of
your life is a
>> complete system with charger and BMS (and
preferably an
integrated
>> controller or at least a cooperative one too).
There are very
>> few such
>> integrated systems, though my impression is that
the Valence comes
>> pretty close (at a substantial price).
>>
>> There's a certain amount of skill and art to
battery
>> maintenance. It's
>> a great tradition for beginning EVers to destroy
their first
>> batteries
>> in the process of learning these skills. Do you
want to kill a
>> $1500
>> pack, or a $15,000 one?
>>
>>>
>>> One thing you can also remember is you can buy a
5500 watt gas
>>> generator on wheels at pep boys for about $300.
With a trailer
>>> hitch
>>> you would have unlimited mileage in your
electric for longer
>>> trips.
>>
>> Three problems, in random order (you decide what
the order of
>> importance
>> is to you) :
>>
>> 1. You'll be polluting to a gross degree, probably
on the order of
>> HUNDREDS of times as much as your ICE. You will
also burn more
>> fuel
>> than you would in the ICE.
>>
>> 2. Unless you have a very light, efficient EV, a
5kW genset won't
>> keep
>> you going down the road at highway speeds. Most
conversions need
>> 12-15kW to maintain 55-60 mph.
>>
>> 3. The cheap gensets I've seen at the dollar stores
at about this
>> price
>> appear to be crude and poorly made. They're apt
to be barely
>> adequate
>> for use a few times a year. Use one of these,
and you're likely
to
>> drop your car's reliability to about that of a
Model T. Better
>> make
>> sure your road service card is paid up.
>>
>> It's possible to build a somewhat clean, somewhat
efficient,
>> reasonably
>> reliable series hybrid (though it will almost
impossible for a
>> homebuilder to make one as clean, efficient, or
reliable as a
>> factory
>> ICE, let alone a factory hybrid). But it is a
lot of work, and
the
>> result won't look anything like these cheap
portable gensets. If
>> you're considering running your EV with a
portable genset,
>> please do
>> our lungs (and yourself) a favor and don't bother
with the EV,
>> just
>> keep driving your ICE.
>>
>>
>> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>> EV List Assistant Administrator
>>
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
= = = = = = = =
>> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while
you're on
>> vacation, or
>> switch to digest mode? See how:
http://www.evdl.org/help/
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
= = = = = = =
>> = Note:
>> mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will
not reach me.
>> To send
>> a private message, please obtain my email address
from
>> the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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= = = = = = = =
>
visit my websites at www.reverendgadget.com, gadgetsworld.org,
leftcoastconversions.com
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There is not any lack of designs, Otmar gives the schematic for a curtis
controller on his website, so there you go, build a curtis clone.
A reverse engineered schematic is a very very long way from a complete
open source design. Regardless, you missed the point. I was not
arguing the feasability or likelyhood of someone creating a complete
open source design. I was arguing that the creation of such a design
would not result in less comercial development, rather more.
I just don't see anyone willing to invest the time and money to confirm
it works just to have some other person copy it and sell a kit, and then
have a price war over who will sell it cheapest, which is what happens.
I agree that these are obstacles to the creation of a open source
design, it would take quite a special person or group of people to
undertake such a thing.
Good for the end consumer, yes, but it isn't for the person that did the
hard work.
Presumably anyone who sets out to create an open source design would
be ok with this or they wouldn't bother in the first place.
-Peter
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--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know what this controller is / history behind it / voltage rating?
Supposedly, it was designed by Otmar, pre Zilla days ...
---------------------------------
We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups.
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--- Begin Message ---
Would this happen to be about a converted S10 on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280043557432#description
I was looking at it too.
Brandon Kruger
On 11/1/06, Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Does anyone know what this controller is / history behind it / voltage
rating?
Supposedly, it was designed by Otmar, pre Zilla days ...
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On Nov 1, 2006, at 5:01 PM, Jack Murray wrote:
BTW, I looked it over, where is the buck converter part of it?
Put the motor in the controller circuit. Consider the motor field is an
inductor.
Paul
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You can use the old heater core as a mount, if you cut
a square hole out of the center. I agree you need to
keep it away from the old core because of the metal
issue. So if your jb weld/or silicone solvent wears
out, there could be some major short-circuit.
--- Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What would be the benefit? You want the ceramic
> heater in the same box as the original, but you want
> _unimpeded air flow_.
> Putting it inside the original core would likely
> impede that flow. And on the top, you've got
> electrical leads that need to be isolated from each
> other. The original core is metal, and if they
> touched the original core, you've got a short...
> peace,
>
>
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > I am thinking I seen someone who cut the center
> out
> > of their original heater core and mounted the
> > ceramic core in it? I can't rmember where I seen
> it
> > or how it was mounted. I am thinking of doing
> this
> > and setting it in there with some kind of high
> temp
> > silicone sealer surounding it. Will this work????
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>
> Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch
> too!
> Learn more at:
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> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came
> out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas
> for your kids?
>
>
>
>
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Hi,
I am not sure if this is doable. Imagine a series of say 26 12 volt
batteries of whatever chemistry. Its output is 312V and drives the motor.
Conventionally to charge this pack in series, we need a high voltage
charger with BMS for equalisation etc.
What if I get 26 separate 12 volt battery chargers and connect them
individually across each battery and plug them all into a common plug for
charging? Can I get away without BMS as now equalization is going to
happen by this topology. I can also leave the connections intact always as
there is no need to swith batteries from series to parallel.
Any input from seasoned EV enthusiasts welcome.
JJ
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Microsoft has a product used in industrial machinery(plastic molding
machine is where I found it). You won't see a logo anywhere, They didn't
wan't people to make the windows assoiciation I think. Linux has an
embedded kernel. Once you remove the hard drive and give priority back
to the OS and away from interactive GUI's you can get great reliability.
Even Solaris found it's way into embedded devices. The problems are not
with the kernel space, they are with the user space. :-) Microsofts blue
screen of death has a linux equivilant although not nearly as probable,
but they have to do with misbehaving hardware. It is an X86 thing and
the best way to avoid it is to not use x86 (memory modes, pipelines,
cascadeing and shared interupts, and privledge levels, oh my)
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Seth Myers wrote:
Zapi makes dc controllers with regen, right? any experience or
stories/prices for those? I saw some converter who (was going to?)
put them in light kit cars, it looked like, and get up to 800 amps
or something, with regen, etc. Not sure what motors, though.
Zapi controllers were rather fragile; quality control was weak and they
were not particularly reliable. But they did offer regen. It worked best
when the motor was also built for regen, of course. Kostov motors, some
GE motors, and aircraft starter-generators had interpoles, and worked
well with them.
The other option is to keep the regen current very low, like ICE engine
braking in 3rd or 4th gear, and set the brush timing to neutral on a
non-interpole motor, so regen didn't cause excessive arcing.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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James Massey wrote:
Unless there is an external freewheel diode across each motor, then
the sequence could be:
- command the controller off (current is flowing via the controller
freewheel diodes, or through the external freewheel diodes, or
some of both)
- open the series contactors (current is now flowing completely
via the external freewheel diodes)
- close the parallel contactors (current is again flowing via the
controller freewheel diodes, or through the external freewheel
diodes, or some of both)
- command the controller on
This could work if you get the details right.
The external freewheel diodes need to have a higher forward voltage drop
than the freewheel diodes in the controller. That's to insure that the
controller diodes preferentially carry the current.
If the external diodes have less drop, then in normal operation when the
controller's transistor cycles off, the inductance of the long wire
between transistors and the external diode will create a huge voltage
spike, which the controller's internal diodes will be hard pressed to clamp.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Can't help you with the spec's, but I can confirm that this was Ot's
test bed truck for controller development before he built the Cal Poppy
and that the Mouse is a controller he developed in the EVCL years. The
truck originally had 40 6V batteries in the bed, so _maybe_ the Mouse
works at 240V, BUT DON'T QUOTE ME ON THAT! Maybe Ot will chime in here
soon...
cheers,
Andrew
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280043557432#description
Steve Powers wrote:
Does anyone know what this controller is / history behind it / voltage rating?
Supposedly, it was designed by Otmar, pre Zilla days ...
---------------------------------
We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups.
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Some issues:
The 26 chargers might require more than a typical 20
amp breaker.
The charger may have options you need to select on
each one, taking 26 sets of settings you need to set
each time it is repowered.
Consider the onboard size and weight of the chargers.
There is the issue of concern about 26 devices
functioning and connected.
There's the added wiring issues.
It is an idea worth thinking about, and I have thought
about it myself. Perhaps if the cost savings
overrides the disadvantages...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am not sure if this is doable. Imagine a series of
> say 26 12 volt
> batteries of whatever chemistry. Its output is 312V
> and drives the motor.
> Conventionally to charge this pack in series, we
> need a high voltage
> charger with BMS for equalisation etc.
>
> What if I get 26 separate 12 volt battery chargers
> and connect them
> individually across each battery and plug them all
> into a common plug for
> charging? Can I get away without BMS as now
> equalization is going to
> happen by this topology. I can also leave the
> connections intact always as
> there is no need to swith batteries from series to
> parallel.
>
> Any input from seasoned EV enthusiasts welcome.
> JJ
>
>
>
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Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What if I get 26 separate 12 volt battery chargers and connect them
individually across each battery and plug them all into a common plug
for charging?
Yes, you can do that. The challenge is that now you have 26 chargers. If
one fails, it leaves a battery dead and you can't drive. Since the
reliability of a system is the reliability of each part, times the
number of parts, the system is 26 times more likely to fail than one
having just one charger.
So, to make this work, you need ultra-reliable chargers. You will also
need some kind of simple BMS as well, to detect any charger failures.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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I think it was the Yaris that had the electric heater... recently mentioned
here. Does anyone have a link that explains how that works? I've been
searching and all I find is the diesel pre-heaters, which aren't the same
thing at all. I'm interested in how they run that heater w/o draining the
power batt.
I have a great need for a 2nd heater in my car. I'd rather it ran off batt
power, than off a plug circuit.
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The Yaris heater is for INSIDE the cabin only and meant to give pre-
heat before the engine warms up to heat the cabin. It is a 12v core
that sits on top of the normal heater core inside the car...
Mark
On Nov 1, 2006, at 7:55 PM, Michael Perry wrote:
I think it was the Yaris that had the electric heater... recently
mentioned
here. Does anyone have a link that explains how that works? I've been
searching and all I find is the diesel pre-heaters, which aren't
the same
thing at all. I'm interested in how they run that heater w/o
draining the
power batt.
I have a great need for a 2nd heater in my car. I'd rather it ran
off batt
power, than off a plug circuit.
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