EV Digest 6110
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Dual outlet opportunity charging
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Dual outlet opportunity charging
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: EV pusher Trailer
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Electric Man pulls Chariot
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Solar EV power
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Input requested on heater assembly
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Heaters
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Dual outlet opportunity charging
by Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Electric Man pulls Chariot
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) motor roughness?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Electric Man pulls Chariot
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: motor roughness?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: motor roughness?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: motor roughness?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Forklift motors with only 2 polarity bolts
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: motor roughness?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: motor roughness?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
OK...
Block heaters for trucks can use 1500 watts, so every
block heater outlet has its own 20 amp breaker.
What I don't know if they are on the red&white wire or
the black&white wire.
Would it matter if I used two outlets that where on
the same "phase" (black&white) but each had its own
breaker?
If necessary I could open up the outlets and see, and
take some measurements as wel, but I wanted something
more universal.
thanks again.
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> If the outlets are on the same phase, and the
> circuit is limit to 20 amps,
> then you can only draw up to about 18 amps.
>
> If the outlets are on two separate phases, where you
> would read 240 volts
> between the two outlets, than you can run two
> circuits of 18 amps.
>
> Note: It is preferred to stay at 16 amps on a 20 amp
> outlet which is 80%.
> Sometimes the 18 amps will overheat a thermo circuit
> breaker instead of a
> magnetic circuit breaker.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:46 AM
> Subject: Dual outlet opportunity charging
>
>
> >
> >
> > First, all the outlets for block heaters here in
> > Fairbanks, AK are on 20 amp breakers.
> >
> > Sometimes I'll park somewhere, and I can have
> access
> > to two 20 amp outlets.
> >
> > I was wondering if I could connect each outlet to
> a
> > separate diode bridge and then parallel the output
> for
> > my 120v dc battery pack. (Take the +168v from each
> > bridge and each -168v from each bridge, and
> applying
> > them to my batteries).
> >
> > Can that work?
> >
> > thanks,
> > Michael
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________________________________________
> > Sponsored Link
> >
> > Talk more and pay less. Vonage can save you up to
> $300 a year on your
> > phone bill.
> > Sign up now. http://www.vonage.com/startsavingnow/
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
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Choose Cingular, Sprint, Verizon, Alltel, or T-Mobile.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The block heaters typically have the 20amp breaker
where the outlet is. If not you can walk about 30 feet
to the clearly marked box. Most outlets are numbered,
and are clearly written which outlet is which. So
sometimes you can walk the 30 feet look into the
circuit breaker box and see that they are both on
separate circuits and if they are on different
"phases".
But the question remains is it ok to make something
universal that would use to extension cords to
separate diode bridges. I know each will have its
own 20 amp breaker, but not always on the same phase.
thanks
--- steve clunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike golub" >
> > I was wondering if I could connect each outlet to
> a
> > separate diode bridge and then parallel the output
> for
> > my 120v dc battery pack. (Take the +168v from each
> > bridge and each -168v from each bridge, and
> applying
> > them to my batteries).
> >
> > Can that work?
> >
> Only if each out let is on the same leg and if they
> both or on different
> brakers. You can tell if they are on the same leg
> buy using a meter and
> putting it across the two hot leads , if it reads 0
> then your on the same
> leg , if not it will read 240 ( I would test all
> combinations incase the out
> let is miss wired ) . Telling if it has its own
> braker is going to be
> harder. How many watts dose a block heater use ?
> another way around this is
> with a isolation transformer. This will also let you
> plug into 240 . The way
> I hooked this one for 240 was to have the ac go
> through the ac part of the
> bridge rectifier , then through the input of the
> isolation transformer , the
> other end of the input goes to the other 240 ac wire
> . You'll need another
> bridge on the out put of the isolation transformer
> and both bridges have
> there out puts going to the batteries . I would
> also not just use 1 bridge
> but 2 or 3 , and heat sinks and fans .
> Steve Clunn ,,,, my spell checker says braker is not
> a word hmmmm .
>
>
>
>
> > thanks,
> > Michael
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________________________________________
> > Sponsored Link
> >
> > Talk more and pay less. Vonage can save you up to
> $300 a year on your
> > phone bill.
> > Sign up now. http://www.vonage.com/startsavingnow/
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Associate's, Bachelor's, or Master's - in less than one year.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Pete,
I agree that the EV pusher trailer is a bad idea. But not because of the
fuel mileage that you suggest. Most trailers that I've towed have resulted
in less than 1 or 2 mpg loss. And that is with heavy trailers up over my cab
pushing the wind. Some trailers (lower profile) have actually IMPROVED my
mileage even while loaded.
However I still believe an Electric pusher is a bad idea. Especially if it
is to be used only occasionally, which I believe it would. The batteries
will die of old age before they get any use.
However, having said all that, I am contemplating building one for my
bicycle (13 mi each way to work).
Bikes and cars are completely different in this aspect though....
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
GE I-5
Blossvale, NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:19 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: EV pusher Trailer
>
> Are you all STILL talking about electric pushers? Sorry to burst your
> bubble, but this is just a plain bad idea.
>
> It takes about 600lbs of lead-acid batteries to get the same range as one
> gallon of gasoline. Because EVs only carry the equivelent of one to three
> gallons of gasoline, they HAVE to be efficient. An electric pusher simply
> isn't efficient.
> Let's assume we try a small electric pusher with only 600lbs of batteries,
> 100+ lbs of motor, 75-100lbs of tranmission, 25-50 lbs of controller,
> circuit breakers, cables, etc. plus the weight of the trailer and we are
> talking about 1,2000 lbs, maybe more.
> Now let's assume we have a car with average fuel economy, approx 27 mpg.
> What does it's fuel economy drop to when pulling a 1,200 lb trailer?
> 19-20mpg, maybe worse?
> So you spend thousands to get a vehicle that can only get you 10 miles
> before you have to return, or you put up with poor fuel economy when you
go
> further. Plus you have to put up with hualing a trailer around town.
> You can make the trailer heavier, but you are looking at diminishing
> returns, then next 600 lbs gets you maybe 15 miles and so forth. Plus
it's
> too heavy for a small car to hual (most passenger vehicles only have a
1,000
> towing capacity or less.)
>
> Spend the money on a used hybrid, you're far better off. Buy an old Prius
> and you can convert it to a plug in hybrid and get the same electric range
> as above and WAY BETTER fuel economy when you run out of juice.
>
> Or get a SECOND car and convert it to electric. You'll have lower costs
and
> a lot less work than making a pusher trailer and much better range and
> efficiency.
>
> ICE pushers make a certain sense for some situations. ELectric pushers
> don't really make any sense.
>
> > I can see how pushing a car on the highway would work, but if you had
> > an electric pusher pushing an ICE car around town, it seems like it
> > might be a little awkward say.. doing a right angle turn from a
> > stoplight? especially if you have a light vehicle. ...maybe if you
> > accelerate very slowly?
> > Anyone have experience in this situation?
> >
> > Just throwing that out there.
> >
> > -Tehben
> >
> >
> > On Nov 6, 2006, at 11:41 AM, Michael wrote:
> >
> >>> The forward pressure on the tongue when operating in pusher
mode is
> >>> relatively small compared to the forward pressure in braking
mode.
> >>> That
> >>> should pretty well negate concern about the switch and the
concern
> >>> about the hitch operating backwards from its design. The
amount of
> >>> force generated on the hitch by your pusher is insignificant
> >>> compared to stopping a 5000 pound trailer. Compare your 0-60
time
> >>> with your 60-0 time.
> >>> F=MA
> >>
> >> That is very true. My concern was that all the weight was
negative...
> >> lifting the hitch off the ball. (Braking power shoves the hitch
> >> *down* on
> >> the ball & only a small amount of that force is taken by the
locking
> >> tongue.)
> >>
> >> Driving w/ a hitch would be lifting, so perhaps it'd be wise to
> >> balance the trailer with a bit more weight on the tonge than
you'd
> >> normall use.
> >>
> >> For one of our utility trailers, we also used a couple short
chains.
> >> Thus, even if the tongue unlatched itself, the chains would keep
the
> >> hitch from lifting completely off the ball. (My boss started
doing
> >> that when a new hitch tongue broke and a trailer/bulldozer tried
to
> >> drive over the top of his PU. <g>)
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk
> at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish
> with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
http://www.evsource.com - Professional EV components and resources
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Kind of JAZZED UP on the possibilities of YouTube... So I have been
doing some Up-Loading...
Hope I have not HACKED up Bob's spelling of his Name too badly.....
If I have... Please send me a correction. I can UP-Date and correct
the data on the YouTube site..
For those who can... check it out at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nF8bguvR3g
It is a video I took while at the Silicon Valley EAA Rally this
September. His walking Electric Centurion was almost as big a HIT as
the TESLA Roadster and the X1-Wrightspeed... A fantastic piece of
workmanship and dedication to a crazy IDEA...
There is ONE OTHER under the catagory "Science and Technology" sub group
"Electric... " which is quite neat too. Obviously a Science Teacher,
or some one like that.. Makes a motor out of a magnet, 2 paper clips, a
D-Cell, and two shelf hangers...
I think this URL will take you there...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIU8QuPXYS0&mode=related&search=
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
I have a Vicor unit (VI-262) that is rated for 300 volt input (200-400)
and 15 volts, 75w output. I'd like to use it to power my eMeter, but
I want to make sure it won't cut out due to undervoltage. My pack may
go as low as 150 volts when discharged. But since the eMeter doesn't
draw much, will the Vicor handle this Ok?
I don't have a 300v input to test, but I did some quick tests on a 150v
input Vicor for you. The specific unit I tried is a VI-25L-IU (150vin,
28vout, 150w).
Vin Iin with Vout @ Iout Iin with Vout @ Iout
--- -------------------- --------------------
200v 4.9ma 28.32v 0 19.5ma 28.31v 105ma
150v 5ma 28.32v 0 26ma 28.31v 105ma (rated voltage)
100v 7.5ma 28.32v 0 39.4ma 28.31v 105ma
80v 10ma 28.32v 0 45.5ma 28.31v 105ma
75v 16ma 28.32v 0 50.5ma 28.31v 105ma
70v 22ma 26.5v 0 54ma 26.13v 97ma
The unit was able to deliver 3 watts (about the most the E-meter ever
needs) down to half of its rated voltage. At slightly less than half of
Vin, the output loses regulation even with no load.
So, I would say that your 300vin Vicor will probably work fine at 150vin
with only the E-meter as a load.
I realize that a 12v-12v dc-dc hooked up to my house battery would
be better, but I don't have one of those, and they are not cheap
compared to the Vicor I already have (unless it fries my eMeter.)
Actually, I would say that it is *better* to power the E-meter from the
pack as a whole, rather than from a 12v/12v DC/DC.
If you powered the E-meter directly from your 12v accessory battery (a
bad idea, because it's not isolated!), it would draw up to 150ma. That
would quickly run down the 12v battery.
If you powered the E-meter from the 12v accessory battery via a small
12v/12v isolated DC/DC converter, it would have an efficiency of no
better than 80%. Now you'd draw almost 200ma; your 12v battery would go
dead even sooner.
If you keep your main DC/DC powered all the time, you'd keep the 12v
battery charged with energy from the propulsion pack. But the efficiency
of the big DC/DC would be much worse at light load. Your propulsion pack
would have to provide 50-100ma just to power the E-meter and float
charge the 12v battery.
The Vicor only draws 26ma from the propulsion pack to power the E-meter
even at full power. So, it is actually the most efficient way to do it.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
At 03:16 PM 11/6/2006, Phil Marino wrote:
How much power does the E-meter need? You can get single-chip
isolated DC/DC converters in the 1 to 2 watt range for about $10. You
could power one from your 12V aux battery.
I've seen universal input 12v supplies for as little as $7. One of
those would probably work, AND be better isolated than the little DC-DC
converters.
The E-meter / Link-10 draws from 25ma to 150ma at 12vdc. The exact
amount depends on how many LEDs are lit, how much light is falling on
the face, and whether is is "on" or in "sleep" mode. It has an internal
switchmode converter, so current drops as voltage goes up (half the
current at 24v, for example).
Most inexpensive 12v/12v DC/DC converters have very weal isolation. The
advertising claims "1000v" or whatever, but when you read the fine print
on the data sheets, they says not to actually use it for any continuous
voltage over 30v or so.
Most switchmode power supplies intended to plug into the 120vac line
have much better isolation. If it is UL listed, it must have at least
1250vac isolation. This would be a preferable way to do it.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Storm Connors wrote:
I have a 190 watt solar panel I'm thinking of mounting on my car...
I learned about Lee Hart's battery balancer that charges each battery
individually... It should be impossible to overcharge the traction
batteries this way... Is there anything here worth pursuing?
That's an interesting idea. It should work. If you had one of my Battery
Balancers, you could use the solar panel to charge whatever battery
happened to need it, whether the 12v accessory battery or any propulsion
battery. The relays I use are rated for 30 amps, and I doubt your solar
panels can deliver more than this.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hartsell, Fred wrote:
I am getting ready to wire up my heater and I thought about just putting
in a separate 12 volt switch to handle the relay. I would also use this
switch to send 12 volts to the fan switch so that it would not be able
to run until I turn on the primary switch. Would this be okay to use?
This is exactly the situation I think you would have trouble with,
because you are wiring the relay coil and fan motor in parallel.
But you can use a 2-pole switch, where one pole turns on the relay, and
a separate one turns on the fan.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
0-o
don't batteries produce flamable gas?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: RE: Heaters
Tom Gocze wrote:
You could get real fancy with thermal storage, but there is
some mass in the vehicle cab.
I haven't seen it mentioned in thie thread yet, but a possibility that
Lee Hart once suggested is to use your battries as the thermal storage.
The rationale is that the batteries like to be kept at temperatures that
are comfortable for people, and will perform their best when warm. If
it is cool enough out that you need cabin heat, then it is probably cool
enough that your batteries would benefit from some heating.
So, insulate the battery boxes and heat your batteries when
parked/charging using heating pads, etc. powered from the AC line. When
driving, have a fan circulate cabin air through the battery boxes to
heat the cabin. There is still a good chance that there will be some
smell to the heated air (battery smell), but probably less objectionable
than brush dust, etc. as would result if motor cooling exhaust were
circulated. More efficient than burning traction energy up in a
resistor or even than running a ceramic heater, however, thre is no
doubt that the ceramic heater is really going to result in the best
quality of cabin heat.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I remember reading about an issue if one circuit fails, it can cause some
problems. There are manufacturers who make such devices that are safe -
check with a marine supplier.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: November 7, 2006 9:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Dual outlet opportunity charging
OK...
Block heaters for trucks can use 1500 watts, so every block heater outlet
has its own 20 amp breaker.
What I don't know if they are on the red&white wire or the black&white wire.
Would it matter if I used two outlets that where on the same "phase"
(black&white) but each had its own breaker?
If necessary I could open up the outlets and see, and take some measurements
as wel, but I wanted something more universal.
thanks again.
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> If the outlets are on the same phase, and the circuit is limit to 20
> amps, then you can only draw up to about 18 amps.
>
> If the outlets are on two separate phases, where you would read 240
> volts between the two outlets, than you can run two circuits of 18
> amps.
>
> Note: It is preferred to stay at 16 amps on a 20 amp outlet which is
> 80%.
> Sometimes the 18 amps will overheat a thermo circuit breaker instead
> of a magnetic circuit breaker.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:46 AM
> Subject: Dual outlet opportunity charging
>
>
> >
> >
> > First, all the outlets for block heaters here in Fairbanks, AK are
> > on 20 amp breakers.
> >
> > Sometimes I'll park somewhere, and I can have
> access
> > to two 20 amp outlets.
> >
> > I was wondering if I could connect each outlet to
> a
> > separate diode bridge and then parallel the output
> for
> > my 120v dc battery pack. (Take the +168v from each bridge and each
> > -168v from each bridge, and
> applying
> > them to my batteries).
> >
> > Can that work?
> >
> > thanks,
> > Michael
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
______________
> > Sponsored Link
> >
> > Talk more and pay less. Vonage can save you up to
> $300 a year on your
> > phone bill.
> > Sign up now. http://www.vonage.com/startsavingnow/
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Sponsored Link
Get a free Motorola Razr! Today Only!
Choose Cingular, Sprint, Verizon, Alltel, or T-Mobile.
http://www.letstalk.com/inlink.htm?to=592913
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Steve
I WANT ONE!!! anyone know where the how to build plans
are, lmao!
Thanks for the link
Cya
Jim Husted
--- Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Kind of JAZZED UP on the possibilities of YouTube...
> So I have been
> doing some Up-Loading...
>
> Hope I have not HACKED up Bob's spelling of his Name
> too badly.....
>
> If I have... Please send me a correction. I can
> UP-Date and correct
> the data on the YouTube site..
>
> For those who can... check it out at:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nF8bguvR3g
>
> It is a video I took while at the Silicon Valley EAA
> Rally this
> September. His walking Electric Centurion was
> almost as big a HIT as
> the TESLA Roadster and the X1-Wrightspeed... A
> fantastic piece of
> workmanship and dedication to a crazy IDEA...
>
> There is ONE OTHER under the catagory "Science and
> Technology" sub group
> "Electric... " which is quite neat too. Obviously
> a Science Teacher,
> or some one like that.. Makes a motor out of a
> magnet, 2 paper clips, a
> D-Cell, and two shelf hangers...
>
> I think this URL will take you there...
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIU8QuPXYS0&mode=related&search=
> --
> Steven S. Lough, Pres.
> Seattle EV Association
> 6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
> Seattle, WA 98115-7230
> Day: 206 850-8535
> Eve: 206 524-1351
> e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> web: http://www.seattleeva.org
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
Talk more and pay less. Vonage can save you up to $300 a year on your phone
bill.
Sign up now. http://www.vonage.com/startsavingnow/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could someone with motor experience diagnose my issue please.
Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor has to push past
something rough to get started. Once in motion the problem is gone, and
there is no problem with acceleration, no strange noises from transmission
at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
[can I describe it better; almost as if the motor has to push past a solid
object that is keeping it from rotating to get started, but that object
disappears once motor is in motion]
Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st gear at 0 RPM. The
problem is still there, but with a lighter weight foot, and the higher
torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a symptom of another
issue.
basics:
Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old with 50-100K miles)
running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing with Raptor 600 and T125's
in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever done; so only if this is the
concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am not up for opening to
see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
Thanks for the advice, Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob is absolutely one of the most creative souls you'll ever meet, when
it comes to EVs and electro/mechanical gizmos. (think SnoWhite, 5th
wheel ICE scooter pusher for EV, giant electric trike at Burning Man,
electric wheelbarrow and kayak, built to competitively thumb his nose at
the Electrathon rules, and the list goes on...)
His last name is spelled: Schneeveis
Thanks for putting up the video of his latest masterpiece.
cheers,
Andrew
Steven Lough wrote:
Kind of JAZZED UP on the possibilities of YouTube... So I have been
doing some Up-Loading...
Hope I have not HACKED up Bob's spelling of his Name too badly.....
If I have... Please send me a correction. I can UP-Date and correct
the data on the YouTube site..
For those who can... check it out at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nF8bguvR3g
It is a video I took while at the Silicon Valley EAA Rally this
September. His walking Electric Centurion was almost as big a HIT as
the TESLA Roadster and the X1-Wrightspeed... A fantastic piece of
workmanship and dedication to a crazy IDEA...
There is ONE OTHER under the catagory "Science and Technology" sub
group "Electric... " which is quite neat too. Obviously a Science
Teacher, or some one like that.. Makes a motor out of a magnet, 2
paper clips, a D-Cell, and two shelf hangers...
I think this URL will take you there...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIU8QuPXYS0&mode=related&search=
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Ben
This doesn't sound like a typical motor problem. If
the armature was dragging against the pole shoes then
you'd hear it all the time. I really can't think of
anything that would lock up a 9" motor at 156 volts.
Have you tried lifting the cars drive axle to run it
without driving to better hear / experience this??
Thought this might be an option being you don't want
to pull the motor out. I'f you'd like send me a pic
of the brushes and I can confirm if they are still
good for you and knock that one off the list. Heck
grab a video of it running if ya want and I'll put an
ear to it as well, but I don't believe you have a
motor issue myself.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Could someone with motor experience diagnose my
> issue please.
>
> Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor
> has to push past
> something rough to get started. Once in motion the
> problem is gone, and
> there is no problem with acceleration, no strange
> noises from transmission
> at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
> [can I describe it better; almost as if the motor
> has to push past a solid
> object that is keeping it from rotating to get
> started, but that object
> disappears once motor is in motion]
> Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st
> gear at 0 RPM. The
> problem is still there, but with a lighter weight
> foot, and the higher
> torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
>
> Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a
> symptom of another
> issue.
>
> basics:
> Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old
> with 50-100K miles)
> running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing with
> Raptor 600 and T125's
> in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
>
> I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever done;
> so only if this is the
> concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am
> not up for opening to
> see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
>
> Thanks for the advice, Ben
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Ben,
My GE-11 motor was doing about the same thing after 15 years of running.
The rear motor bearing was getting very worn. Every time I would start at 0
RPM it would run with a little vibration and would smooth itself out at a
higher RPM which cause the motor output shaft and transmission input shaft
to become more inline.
This also cause the motor adapter coupling to be not a press fit any longer,
which could added to the vibration factor. Had the motor adapter coupling
resurface and than turn to fit the motor as a press fit. Also they install
four set screws 90 degrees apart with a shorter one on the key way, so all 4
would be the same length.
After installing new bearings, I had the rotor, adapter coupler, flywheel
and pressure plate balance to 10,000 RPM at a electric motor shop which they
do this all the time to certain RPM limits for different size motors.
It may be a mechanical alignment problem in any of these units.
I also had a brush problem that made a clicking sound at startup. Did
happen after 10 years of running. The duel brushes do not wear even in my
motor. The rear brushes wear twice as fast as the front ones, because they
are shunting more of the current than the front ones.
This cause the tension to be different on the brush and made it skip over
the commentator segments at low speed.
I now exchange the front brushes with the rear brushes to get a even wear
every 5 years.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: motor roughness?
> Could someone with motor experience diagnose my issue please.
>
> Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor has to push past
> something rough to get started. Once in motion the problem is gone, and
> there is no problem with acceleration, no strange noises from transmission
> at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
> [can I describe it better; almost as if the motor has to push past a solid
> object that is keeping it from rotating to get started, but that object
> disappears once motor is in motion]
> Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st gear at 0 RPM. The
> problem is still there, but with a lighter weight foot, and the higher
> torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
>
> Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a symptom of another
> issue.
>
> basics:
> Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old with 50-100K miles)
> running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing with Raptor 600 and T125's
> in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
>
> I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever done; so only if this is
> the
> concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am not up for opening to
> see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
>
> Thanks for the advice, Ben
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Roland, Ben
You know I thought about bad bearings but ruled it out
being if they stuck that hard on startup they'd still
be growling at you pretty loud when running. Ben
didn't mention anything about vibration or odd noises
but more just what seemed like a short lockup feeling
on startup. AT ten years old I'm sure the bearings
could use replacement before they did lockup though.
There really could be all sorts of issues causing this
but I find it funny how everyone always blames the
motor first, hehe. Poor motors just can't get a
break. I'm sure a lot of people blame the motors I
see for blowing up, they don't look at the fact they
wern't using a tach though 8^P
Anyway hope this helps.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Ben,
>
> My GE-11 motor was doing about the same thing after
> 15 years of running.
> The rear motor bearing was getting very worn. Every
> time I would start at 0
> RPM it would run with a little vibration and would
> smooth itself out at a
> higher RPM which cause the motor output shaft and
> transmission input shaft
> to become more inline.
>
> This also cause the motor adapter coupling to be not
> a press fit any longer,
> which could added to the vibration factor. Had the
> motor adapter coupling
> resurface and than turn to fit the motor as a press
> fit. Also they install
> four set screws 90 degrees apart with a shorter one
> on the key way, so all 4
> would be the same length.
>
> After installing new bearings, I had the rotor,
> adapter coupler, flywheel
> and pressure plate balance to 10,000 RPM at a
> electric motor shop which they
> do this all the time to certain RPM limits for
> different size motors.
>
> It may be a mechanical alignment problem in any of
> these units.
>
> I also had a brush problem that made a clicking
> sound at startup. Did
> happen after 10 years of running. The duel brushes
> do not wear even in my
> motor. The rear brushes wear twice as fast as the
> front ones, because they
> are shunting more of the current than the front
> ones.
>
> This cause the tension to be different on the brush
> and made it skip over
> the commentator segments at low speed.
>
> I now exchange the front brushes with the rear
> brushes to get a even wear
> every 5 years.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:26 PM
> Subject: motor roughness?
>
>
> > Could someone with motor experience diagnose my
> issue please.
> >
> > Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor
> has to push past
> > something rough to get started. Once in motion the
> problem is gone, and
> > there is no problem with acceleration, no strange
> noises from transmission
> > at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
> > [can I describe it better; almost as if the motor
> has to push past a solid
> > object that is keeping it from rotating to get
> started, but that object
> > disappears once motor is in motion]
> > Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st
> gear at 0 RPM. The
> > problem is still there, but with a lighter weight
> foot, and the higher
> > torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
> >
> > Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a
> symptom of another
> > issue.
> >
> > basics:
> > Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old
> with 50-100K miles)
> > running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing
> with Raptor 600 and T125's
> > in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
> >
> > I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever
> done; so only if this is
> > the
> > concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am
> not up for opening to
> > see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
> >
> > Thanks for the advice, Ben
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
Degrees online in as fast as 1 Yr - MBA, Bachelor's, Master's, Associate
Click now to apply http://yahoo.degrees.info
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:46 PM 6/11/06 -0800, John Bart wrote:
I came across a forklift motor, and it has everything i want for my
pocketbike. A keyed shaft, 10kw continous power, and about 65
lbs. Anyway it only has two studs coming out of the motor, plus and
minus, and no studs on the housing itself like a regular adc motor or
similar would have. Do these types of motors perform just as well as a 4
studed motor, or will the 2 studed motor give me lousy performance?
G'day John, and All
Although Jim has responded already, it depends on what job on the fork it
was doing. If it was the traction motor it should be a series motor, but if
it was doing another job it may be a compound motor, like the one I've
fixed up for my trike project.
You'll need to get inside it to be able to know what it is.
Hope this helps
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about dragging brakes making it had to get rolling? Like having your
emergency brake on a
little.
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Roland, Ben
>
> You know I thought about bad bearings but ruled it out
> being if they stuck that hard on startup they'd still
> be growling at you pretty loud when running. Ben
> didn't mention anything about vibration or odd noises
> but more just what seemed like a short lockup feeling
> on startup. AT ten years old I'm sure the bearings
> could use replacement before they did lockup though.
> There really could be all sorts of issues causing this
> but I find it funny how everyone always blames the
> motor first, hehe. Poor motors just can't get a
> break. I'm sure a lot of people blame the motors I
> see for blowing up, they don't look at the fact they
> wern't using a tach though 8^P
> Anyway hope this helps.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
> --- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hello Ben,
> >
> > My GE-11 motor was doing about the same thing after
> > 15 years of running.
> > The rear motor bearing was getting very worn. Every
> > time I would start at 0
> > RPM it would run with a little vibration and would
> > smooth itself out at a
> > higher RPM which cause the motor output shaft and
> > transmission input shaft
> > to become more inline.
> >
> > This also cause the motor adapter coupling to be not
> > a press fit any longer,
> > which could added to the vibration factor. Had the
> > motor adapter coupling
> > resurface and than turn to fit the motor as a press
> > fit. Also they install
> > four set screws 90 degrees apart with a shorter one
> > on the key way, so all 4
> > would be the same length.
> >
> > After installing new bearings, I had the rotor,
> > adapter coupler, flywheel
> > and pressure plate balance to 10,000 RPM at a
> > electric motor shop which they
> > do this all the time to certain RPM limits for
> > different size motors.
> >
> > It may be a mechanical alignment problem in any of
> > these units.
> >
> > I also had a brush problem that made a clicking
> > sound at startup. Did
> > happen after 10 years of running. The duel brushes
> > do not wear even in my
> > motor. The rear brushes wear twice as fast as the
> > front ones, because they
> > are shunting more of the current than the front
> > ones.
> >
> > This cause the tension to be different on the brush
> > and made it skip over
> > the commentator segments at low speed.
> >
> > I now exchange the front brushes with the rear
> > brushes to get a even wear
> > every 5 years.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:26 PM
> > Subject: motor roughness?
> >
> >
> > > Could someone with motor experience diagnose my
> > issue please.
> > >
> > > Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor
> > has to push past
> > > something rough to get started. Once in motion the
> > problem is gone, and
> > > there is no problem with acceleration, no strange
> > noises from transmission
> > > at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
> > > [can I describe it better; almost as if the motor
> > has to push past a solid
> > > object that is keeping it from rotating to get
> > started, but that object
> > > disappears once motor is in motion]
> > > Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st
> > gear at 0 RPM. The
> > > problem is still there, but with a lighter weight
> > foot, and the higher
> > > torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
> > >
> > > Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a
> > symptom of another
> > > issue.
> > >
> > > basics:
> > > Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old
> > with 50-100K miles)
> > > running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing
> > with Raptor 600 and T125's
> > > in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
> > >
> > > I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever
> > done; so only if this is
> > > the
> > > concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am
> > not up for opening to
> > > see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advice, Ben
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Sponsored Link
>
> Degrees online in as fast as 1 Yr - MBA, Bachelor's, Master's, Associate
> Click now to apply http://yahoo.degrees.info
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you hear a pop sound? Could it be a brake that sticks?
--
In Friendship, Ted
//ted.sanders.home.comcast.net
//ffni.home.comcast.net
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hey Ben
>
> This doesn't sound like a typical motor problem. If
> the armature was dragging against the pole shoes then
> you'd hear it all the time. I really can't think of
> anything that would lock up a 9" motor at 156 volts.
>
> Have you tried lifting the cars drive axle to run it
> without driving to better hear / experience this??
> Thought this might be an option being you don't want
> to pull the motor out. I'f you'd like send me a pic
> of the brushes and I can confirm if they are still
> good for you and knock that one off the list. Heck
> grab a video of it running if ya want and I'll put an
> ear to it as well, but I don't believe you have a
> motor issue myself.
> Hope this helps
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Could someone with motor experience diagnose my
> > issue please.
> >
> > Upon startup in 2nd gear it feels as if the motor
> > has to push past
> > something rough to get started. Once in motion the
> > problem is gone, and
> > there is no problem with acceleration, no strange
> > noises from transmission
> > at low or high RPM, just upon startup from 0 RPM.
> > [can I describe it better; almost as if the motor
> > has to push past a solid
> > object that is keeping it from rotating to get
> > started, but that object
> > disappears once motor is in motion]
> > Because of this problem, I am now starting in 1st
> > gear at 0 RPM. The
> > problem is still there, but with a lighter weight
> > foot, and the higher
> > torque, it isn't as rough as in 2nd gear.
> >
> > Is this just the brushes time for replacement or a
> > symptom of another
> > issue.
> >
> > basics:
> > Have Advanced DC 9" motor (probably 10 years old
> > with 50-100K miles)
> > running 156 VDC with 15 degree advanced timing with
> > Raptor 600 and T125's
> > in a Chevy S10 4 speed manual.
> >
> > I'm not setup to drop a motor, nor have I ever done;
> > so only if this is the
> > concern would it be worth that struggle. then I am
> > not up for opening to
> > see. I'd have to take it to the local motor shop.
> >
> > Thanks for the advice, Ben
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________________
> ____
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
