EV Digest 6125
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: precharge using lightbulb at 144v?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: '07 Racing Plans
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: A programme for the Dems: Energy Independence, free NiMH,
oil tax
by Mike Sandman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Curtis whine question vs. Raptor condensation issues
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: return of the 'crazy boy' charger
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Condensation in controller; EVs suitable for cold, wet climes?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: '07 Racing Plans
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: A programme for the Dems: Energy Independence, free NiMH, oil tax
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Plan B for SepEx Motor Controller
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by "Dr. Andy Mars" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) My yellow car's name
by JS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: precharge using lightbulb at 144v?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Curtis whine question vs. Raptor condensation issues
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 'lectric leo on ebay
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: A programme for the Dems: Energy Independence, free NiMH, oil tax
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by "Bill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Plan B for SepEx Motor Controller
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: precharge using lightbulb at 144v?
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Curtis whine question vs. Raptor condensation issues
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: 'lectric leo on ebay
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
mike golub wrote:
I precharge my 120vdc curtis system with a 25w 120v light bulb.
If I increase the voltage to 132v or 144v, will the light bulb
still work?
Yes, but it may burn out. I'm using a 130v 75w bulb for my precharge
resistor in a 132v system. It hasn't burned out in 7 years. In fact, it
barely flashes each time it is used, never coming close to full brightness.
But I'm upping my system to 144v. I'll probably change to a 240v bulb,
just to be sure.
Also, Is there a "panel" switch with a built-in light
bulb that operates at 120v?
Yes, lots of them. Most use neon lamps, which work on both AC and DC.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I hope you make it into the 10's John.
Beware of those 16ah Hawkers. They will need watering. They are
absolutly NOT a sealed battery, especially at the rates you will be
using them. I recommend weighing them when new and checking that
weight now and again. Some of mine lost up to 20ml of water per cell.
Mike
-- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello to All,
>
> Though we had a lot of fun racing this year, team Plasma Boy failed to
> hit our goal of cracking the 11's. The Siamese 8 motor, the Zilla
> control system, and the Dutchman drive train deliver power effortlessly
> and reliably, but we feel the car is battery limited in terms of the
> amount of total hp available. Consistently running low 12's isn't too
> bad, and we did get a good deal of media attention that can only help
> the image of EVs...still, we're not satisfied and are determined to do
> better in '07!
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Hey John,
> >
> > Reading your posts reminds me why I love electric drag racing. The
> > changes we make to drive, chassis, control, batteries, etc... are
wide
> > ranging and wide open. It's the "I wonder what doing this will do?"
> > and then finding out, that is such a blast for me.
>
>
> Speaking of changes and getting blasted....Dick Brown, Tim, and I will
> be changing the Zombie's battery pack for '07. The new Hawker based
pack
> will have about 35%-40% MORE power than the current pack, and what a
> blast that will be! The Hawker electrochemist I spoke with agrees with
> my calculations on what the new pack will do. The present pack based on
> 30 of the 24.5 lb. 26 ahr Hawker Aerobatteries generates an initial 321
> hp, then about 4-5 seconds into the run it falls to 241 hp as the inner
> cell straps soften and sag inside each battery. The new pack's smaller
> batteries' interior cell straps are short and thick and don't suffer in
> the same way as the bigger batteries' straps do, they have higher
> specific power producing plates, and so they will initially generate a
> whopping 422 hp! If Hawker's and my predictions are correct, this new
> pack will still be cranking out 350+ hp at the far end of the track!
>
> I don't believe in secrets and like to share my racing ideas, so here's
> the plan. The current pack of 30 Hawkers will be replaced with 60 of
the
> smaller 13.5 lb. 16 ahr style Hawkers. Here's how the math works out.
>
> When warmed up and fully charged, right off the line the present larger
> batteries sag to 8V @ 1000 amps. That's 8V X 30 = 240V X 1000 amps =
240
> kw for 321 'battery hp'. Soon after launch however, each battery
quickly
> falls to 6V, so that's 6V X 30 = 180V X 1000 amps = 180 kw for 241
> 'battery hp' for the rest of the run. These figures are confirmed by
the
> plotted graphs we pulled from Hairball info. Any more than 1000 amps
and
> the batteries each fall to under 6V and detonation is probable.
>
> Looking back to '98 - '02 when I used to run with a single string of
the
> Hawker 16 ahr Genesis batteries, at 800 amps I'd blow up a battery or
> two about every 5 runs or so. At 750 amps though, the batteries held up
> very well. Keep in mind, that back then the total time at the 750 amp
> high discharge was in the 13.1 - 13.5 second range, too. If things work
> out the way I think they will, the car will be running mid to high 11's
> @ 750 amps from each battery, so that's about two seconds less total
> time at high discharge...should be easy street for the batteries.
Again,
> back then each small Hawker discharged at 750 amps would stay above 7
> volts right off the line and sag to 6.9V at the end of the run.
Hawker's
> engineer I spoke with confirms what I saw back then, and says that the
> newest 16 ahr Hawkers sag to a pinch over 7 volts at 750 amps
discharge.
> Now....two 16 ahr Hawkers at 7 volts and 750 amps comes to 1500 amps
@ 7
> volts, and two of these 13.5 lb. batteries weigh 27 lbs....pretty close
> to the present 24.5 lb. batteries I'm using right now.
>
> So the comparison looks this way. The present batteries initially limit
> the car to 8V @ 1000 amps per module right as it leaves the line. These
> batteries then, are good for about 10.7 hp per module for the first 4-5
> seconds....times 30, that's 321 battery hp. Two of the smaller
batteries
> essentially makes a 27 lb. module that makes 7V @ 1500 amps, for about
> 14 hp per module....times 30, that's 420 battery hp.
>
> The plan is to not run buddy pairs, rather, there will be two single
> strings @ 360V, and those two strings will be paralleled. Yes, this new
> pack will be heavier than my target weight limit of around 700 lbs.
(the
> current pack weighs 735 lbs.) and will be 810 lbs., but the dramatic
> power increase should be worth the 75 lb. weight increase. Marko and I
> will try to shave 20 lbs. off battery boxes and brackets in the
redesign
> to hold the 60 small batteries, and there might be 10-15 lbs. elsewhere
> I could get out of the car, so it's possible that the car might only
> gain 40 lbs. or so. An aluminum Ford nine inch differential in back
> would be good for a 45 lb. weight reduction, so if all the planets are
> aligned just right, the car could actually end up a pinch lighter
with a
> lot more power!
>
> As it is now, on a sticky track White Zombie launches hard and carries
> the front tires for about 50 feet under a 1000 amp battery current, but
> that limit restricts the length of time the motor stays at full boil.
> With an extra 500 amps battery current limit (1500 amps instead of 1000
> amps) the motor will have a wider power band on launch, so excessive
> wheel stands are a concern and wheelie bars might be needed to keep the
> car under control off the line...guess we'll have to wait to see how it
> works out. The other concern is when the series-parallel upshift occurs
> down the track. Even with its sagging pack and a 1000 amp battery
> current limit, the rear end breaks loose on that transition, but it's
> fairly controllable. With 1500 battery amps on tap and as much as 30
> extra 'loaded volts', Tim and I don't want the car to get sideways at
> 70+ mph...lots to think about with such a powerful battery pack!
>
> One can only imagine what a 500 lb. lithium pack could do in this car!
> '07 should be fun.
>
> See Ya.......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
I'd be happy if they'd just quit subsidizing the oil companies.
amen!
The price of gas has already started to rise; there's no reason to
believe that the oil companies won't use the excuse of "peak oil" to
jack prices as high as they wish, and reduce competition and regulation
while they can.
Yup. After years of keeping the price of gasoline lower than bottled
water, they have finally allowed it to go up to near it's real cost.
Right now, however, it's falling back to previous levels. A shame really,
while it was at $3 a gallon even the republicans were talking about
electric cars.
i suspect that since the elections are over, will see a price correction
back toward the real cost. might even go much higher this time. it
would be in the interest of the republican constituents (i.e. oil
companies and such) to push the prices very high in an attempt to show
the voting public that they made a mistake in changing the guard--a
silly tactics but one can hope. this might be a win for EVs, IMHO.
when gas passes $4/gal and starts sneaking up on $5, americans will
start demanding "something" be done. this "something" could be EVs if a
few other things fall into place.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul G. wrote:
I had one more idea. A small bottle of dry compressed air (or other gas
like CO2) with a little regulator designed to maintain around 1/2 psi.
This could be plumbed with a small plastic or rubber tube and feed in
using one of the threaded adjustment holes. With a slight positive
pressure inside it wouldn't suck in outside air as it cools. (if I
understand CO2's properties correctly it would help slightly with
cooling too)
If the case is sealed well enough to maintain 1/2 psi pressure inside
it, then you can just pressurize it with dry air and forget it. But
realistically, it will be difficult to seal a case that tight if it
wasn't designed for it.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A great story of perserverance, David. Thanks!
--
There are strange things done 'neath the midnight sun
With no 'lectric inspectors to see
There are deeds, brave and bold, make your blood run cold
In pursuit of electricity
There are clip-leaded getups, and jury-rigged setups
But the strangest I ever did see
Was that night, all alone, with a dead cell phone
That I charged from 230 AC
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
People, this is _ludicrous_! If in fact, the
controller failed due to condensation inside it, that
means I've spent almost 10 years of my life learning
all I could about making an EV run properly, all to
find out that there is the possibility that as my
climate changes (annually), the car's brain can go
"boom"!
Now I guess I understand better why Toyota, GM et.
al started their pilot programs in So. Cal. And for
me to think that it was due to CA being such a large
market!
Imagine purchasing a computer that did all sorts of
cool things, but if it got the least little bit of
dust in it, it goes "BOOM" and you have to replace
the motherboard!
I'm guessing that the OEMs have already solved such
issues?
TTFN,
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Paul G. wrote:
> > I had one more idea. A small bottle of dry
> compressed air (or other gas
> > like CO2) with a little regulator designed to
> maintain around 1/2 psi.
> > This could be plumbed with a small plastic or
> rubber tube and feed in
> > using one of the threaded adjustment holes. With a
> slight positive
> > pressure inside it wouldn't suck in outside air as
> it cools. (if I
> > understand CO2's properties correctly it would
> help slightly with
> > cooling too)
>
> If the case is sealed well enough to maintain 1/2
> psi pressure inside
> it, then you can just pressurize it with dry air and
> forget it. But
> realistically, it will be difficult to seal a case
> that tight if it
> wasn't designed for it.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
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____
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Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John,
i don't understand advantage running 2 series strings other buddy pairs.
I always have seen more benefice from buddy pair which equalize themselves
and help each other under hard current.
In fact i tested 2 X 20Ah paralleled to be better than 45Ah (AGM) or even
50Ah (gel) single battery at delivering high current with less sag.
Am i missing the point, please may you explain further this choice ?
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: '07 Racing Plans
....
> The plan is to not run buddy pairs, rather, there will be two single
> strings @ 360V, and those two strings will be paralleled. Yes, this new
.....
> See Ya.......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If stuff like government seizure of intellectual property (IP) and giving it
away worked, then Russia, China, and North Korea should be tree hugger
paradises. Also, prosecute for what? It's not illegal to not produce something.
Should drug companies that decide to not do stem cell research also be
prosecuted? Companies that elect to not produce products for the military? You
could argue those are "greater good" things that lead to people's deaths if not
done.
Remember, the best way to keep something around forever is to tax it. Taxing
something you want to get rid of creates an inherent conflict-of-interest. Why
do you think cigarettes are still legal? The more tax government gets from
gasoline, the more addicted to gas it becomes, and the harder it will work to
maintain that revenue stream. What you need to do is take the tax off of
gasoline, and then government would objectively consider gasoline's role in
society. Put this tax on electricity instead, and you'll see a huge surge of
government interest in promoting electric cars. Indeed, a graduated tax on
electricity, the more you use the more you pay, would make government want
electric cars even more. You could even graduate it terms of both Amp*hours and
Amps -- so fast recharges generate more tax revenue, encouraging the
development of quick recharge technologies and recharge stations.
----- Original Message ----
From: doug korthof <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 9:26:43 PM
Subject: A programme for the Dems: Energy Independence, free NiMH, oil tax
The auto companies are widely viewed as appealing to the Dems for aid both in
clearing their pension liability and in erecting trade barriers to foreign
cars. At the same time, Democrats, it's predicted, will rescind the special
tax benefits Bush handed out to the oil companies.
Now is the time to demand that Dems actually do more than just payback the
unions for their contributions...Any aid to the auto companie, and policy
toward the oil companies, must be accompanied by:
1. Freeing the NiMH patents from Chevron, or else forcing Toyota to produce the
EV-95 battery as a condition of doing business; eminent domain is one
possibility, criminal prosecution is another.
2. Raising CAFE standards.
3. A graduated tax on oil, so that the more you use, the more you pay. One way
to do this is via ration cards; another is by raising the price but giving "gas
credit cards" to everyone for the first $100/month of free gas. After that,
they would have to pay the going price, perhaps $8/gallon. Other ways to do
this are by regional taxes on gas deliveries, and a gas-guzzler tax.
4. A new, national ZEV mandate, "a ZEV must be produced to satisfy the demand
of the free market so that everyone who wants to buy one at a fair price will
be served an EV".
This can be a letter writing campaign, testimony, picketing, petitions, and
perhaps just contacting your elected representatives.
The mainstream does not even know that Chevron controls the NiMH patents, nor
that the existence of EVs depends on these batteries, the only proven
economical, long-lasting, and powerful enough to drive a car without an IC in
EV service.
It's possible that Lithium, or lead-acid, might be made sufficient, perhaps
with nano-tech; but that's a different issue. We know, now, that the batteries
exist; we know that they work; and no pissant company, no matter how many
bribes they pay, should be allowed to stand in the way of the national interest
in the interest of their oil megalopoly and bloated profits.
The price of gas has already started to rise; there's no reason to believe that
the oil companies won't use the excuse of "peak oil" to jack prices as high as
they wish, and reduce competition and regulation while they can.
The issue is plain; the obfuscaters are the oil companies and their paid hacks
and bribed politicians.
/Doug
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All I could think of was
Electric Lemon,
Mellow Yellow,
Yellow Rose of Texas,
Daisy,
Electric Canary,
John Deer (Yellow),
Pyrite,
Itsy bitsy teeny weeny Yellow polka dotted car,
Golden Delicious,
Yellow peril,
Yellow journalism,
Citrine,
Banana slug,
Amber,
Sunflower,
Yellow Submarine,
Alaska is where the Huskies grow, so don't you eat that yeller snow.
Yellow cab,
The Egg Yolk,
Yellow Fever,
Yellow Labrador,
Goldfish,
Sunlight,
Yellow Jacket,
R. Matt Milliron
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Electric lemon is taken! :)
On 11/11/06, Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
All I could think of was
Electric Lemon,
Mellow Yellow,
Yellow Rose of Texas,
Daisy,
Electric Canary,
John Deer (Yellow),
Pyrite,
Itsy bitsy teeny weeny Yellow polka dotted car,
Golden Delicious,
Yellow peril,
Yellow journalism,
Citrine,
Banana slug,
Amber,
Sunflower,
Yellow Submarine,
Alaska is where the Huskies grow, so don't you eat that yeller snow.
Yellow cab,
The Egg Yolk,
Yellow Fever,
Yellow Labrador,
Goldfish,
Sunlight,
Yellow Jacket,
R. Matt Milliron
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Man, you really want that t-shirt. : )
On Nov 11, 2006, at 5:47 AM, Matthew Milliron wrote:
All I could think of was
Electric Lemon,
Mellow Yellow,
Yellow Rose of Texas,
Daisy,
Electric Canary,
John Deer (Yellow),
Pyrite,
Itsy bitsy teeny weeny Yellow polka dotted car,
Golden Delicious,
Yellow peril,
Yellow journalism,
Citrine,
Banana slug,
Amber,
Sunflower,
Yellow Submarine,
Alaska is where the Huskies grow, so don't you eat that yeller snow.
Yellow cab,
The Egg Yolk,
Yellow Fever,
Yellow Labrador,
Goldfish,
Sunlight,
Yellow Jacket,
R. Matt Milliron
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chet Fields wrote:
I was hoping I could get a few suggestions for a good plan B for my
EVCort whose controller is not working at the moment.
I think Barry Reicher is in the same situation with his Soleq EVcort.
Dead controller, no good way to fix or replace it.
Here are some things we've discussed:
1. Reverse engineer the controller. Trace out the circuits, try to
figure out how they work, and fix them if possible. The Soleq
controller is very well made, but very complicated, so this is a
tedious process.
2. Replace the controller with another sepex controller. There aren't
many to choose from. Sevcon has them up to 72v, so using one of
them will necessitate lowering the pack voltage, and accepting a
loss of performance.
3. Replace the controller with a regular series motor controller
(Curtis, Zilla, etc.). Use this controller just for the armature,
with the EVcort's existing series inductors to simulate the series
field winding. Use a separate controller for the field (could be
as simple as a big rheostat). You'd have to rig a throttle potbox
that coordinated the armature and field controllers, so you get
(for example) full field from 0-half throttle, then full armature
and reduced field from half-full throttle.
4. Build a temporary contactor controller, to get back on the road
the quickest, until you can get some other solution to work.
5. Have the motor rewound as a straight series motor. You now can use
any of half a dozen off-the-shelf controllers. But you use regen
and the other benefits of a sepex motor.
The motor is a specially 'shunt-wound' GE motor.
It's actually a sepex (separately excited) motor. There are two separate
controllers; one for the armature, and one for the field. From my
limited knowledge about the Soleqs, this is an excellent motor that
provides good performance and reliable regen.
If you can't find specs on the motor, you can measure most of what you
need to know with it in the car. Start by measuring the field
resistance. Take 1% of the motor's 1-hour rating, and assume that's the
field power. For example, if it's a 15kw (for 1 hour) motor, the field
can handle 150 watts (for 1 hour). From Ohm's law, you can figure out
what field voltage and current will produce this amount of power.
If you want to go further, you can measure the field winding's
temperature by measuring the CHANGE in its resistance as it warms up.
There are standard charts for temperature rise vs. resistance rise for
copper windings. You can determine that (for example) the field can take
40v for 1 hour
60v for 15 minutes
80v for 5 minutes
108v for 1 minute
(This is just an example; not real data on this motor!)
Anyway, once you have worked out this data, you know how to safely power
the field so you don't burn it up.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yell-ectric ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Milliron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
All I could think of was
Electric Lemon,
Mellow Yellow,
Yellow Rose of Texas,
Daisy,
Electric Canary,
John Deer (Yellow),
Pyrite,
Itsy bitsy teeny weeny Yellow polka dotted car,
Golden Delicious,
Yellow peril,
Yellow journalism,
Citrine,
Banana slug,
Amber,
Sunflower,
Yellow Submarine,
Alaska is where the Huskies grow, so don't you eat that yeller snow.
Yellow cab,
The Egg Yolk,
Yellow Fever,
Yellow Labrador,
Goldfish,
Sunlight,
Yellow Jacket,
R. Matt Milliron
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The previous owner of our yellow/black 1981 Jet Electrica named it BUZZ,
and decorated the rear view mirror with a hanging yellow bee.
We thought about re-naming it HUMMER, as that's what it does,
or "Our yellow school bus" as that what it is.
"Old Yeller"?
EZ EV?
John in Sylmar, CA PV EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would the neon + resistor work was well for
precharging? Can a neon bulb handle 132v or 144v?
Would the resistor be higher?
I guess you could put a resistor in series for your
precharge lightbulb? If you raise the volatage?
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> mike golub wrote:
> > I precharge my 120vdc curtis system with a 25w
> 120v light bulb.
> > If I increase the voltage to 132v or 144v, will
> the light bulb
> > still work?
>
> Yes, but it may burn out. I'm using a 130v 75w bulb
> for my precharge
> resistor in a 132v system. It hasn't burned out in 7
> years. In fact, it
> barely flashes each time it is used, never coming
> close to full brightness.
>
> But I'm upping my system to 144v. I'll probably
> change to a 240v bulb,
> just to be sure.
>
> > Also, Is there a "panel" switch with a built-in
> light
> > bulb that operates at 120v?
>
> Yes, lots of them. Most use neon lamps, which work
> on both AC and DC.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
yellow snow?
On 11/10/06, nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
We decided in order to promote the new SouthWest UK EV group (BEVOB -
http://www.bevob.org/wordpress) that we'd run a little competition on
my personal blog for people to suggest a name for my new City El.
If you have an idea for a bright yellow City El and want to win a T
shirt just comment your ideas and the best one wins a "EVangelists
Suck Amps" T shirt!
http://aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/archives/309 for the story. It's
currently got the name "the flying banana" but I'm thinking it'd be
nice to have something less... fruity!
Nikki.
_______________________________
Old car? New tricks?
Visit aminorjourney.com to see the transformation from Hebe to EV.
E-minor isn't just a key any more...
_______________________________
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Nov 2006 at 7:55, Storm Connors wrote:
> Why not use a lightbulb? Most of their output is heat anyway.
I'm pretty sure one would fit inside some of the big old "shoebox" style
controllers such as the 80s vintage PMCs and Willeys, but could you find
room inside a Raptor controller for a light bulb? I don't know, I've never
owned one, but I'd be surprised if you could. Heat tape sounds like a
better solution, since it's flexible and can be tucked into nooks and
crannies.
I've often wondered how it would work to mount the controller under the
instrument panel of a conversion, just on the inside of the firewall. It
would have an excellent chance of staying dry that way (unless your
windshield leaks ;-).
I can see some downsides though :
= cooling
= finding room (probably tough in some newer cars; more possible, with some
finesse and adjustment, in older ones such as early Rabbits and Civics)
= need to avoid excessive wire length between controller and motor
= high voltage inside the passenger cabin
= a real pain to work on
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Nov 2006 at 8:43, Rush wrote:
> 1980 Renault Electric Leo[pard] Philadelphia...
>
> Ebay - 160050313915
I love the way they mounted the voltmeter and ammeter. Very stylish. A
true contemporary design statement.
http://tinyurl.com/y3ut4d
On 11 Nov 2006 at 0:52, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> The car looks nice it should go for about 5 to 7k.
Look again. It has some small to medium-size dents and what appears to be
some rust damage on one of the rear quarters. The seats appear to have been
fixed with some kind of vinyl seat covers.
There are also the considerable functional and safety limitations of a
Lectric Leopard. A few years ago it might have sold for $1k or so. Even
today I wouldn't pay over $2k for an EV like this, but that's me. It may go
for a few thousand. I'll be surprised to see 5-7k, but I could be wrong.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
At the risk of sounding like I'm overreacting ...
This is a gentle reminder that explicitly political posts with partisan
content are a really bad idea on the EV list. We don't want flame wars.
Much of the original post in this thread comprises entirely acceptable (if
moderately controversial) comments. It is all right to advocate legislation
which will encourage EVs. Be prepared for some to challenge many of the
recommendations and ideas in this post, possibly quite vociferously. (No
personal attacks, please. Attack the ideas, not the person.)
However, a portion of the post mentions a specific political party.
ALL LIST MEMBERS, PLEASE READ THIS :
We have had some harrowing flame wars in the past. To prevent this from
happening again, it's very important to avoid EVEN MENTIONING specific
political parties, candidates, or general positions in any way which might
be construed as promoting or denigrating those parties, candidates, or
positions.
Please DO NOT EVER mention by name, refer to, or comment on, any of the
following. Best to avoid even >using< these words :
Republican
Democrat
Any other party name
Liberal
Conservative
Moderate
Right wing
Left wing
And probably at least a dozen more; use your imagination
Needless to say, that also includes highly partisan and controversial slang
terms and pejorative names such as "pinko," "Bircher," "environazi," etc.
These terms are inflamnatory and are guaranteed to cause discord. They will
inhibit reasonable discussion, not encourage it.
Please DO NOT mention specific politicians by name in a way that might make
a statement or judgement about the person's record or qualifications. It is
OK to name a person to contact about a specific issue, when that person is
in a position to influence the issue (for example, on a congressional
committee).
The purpose of this list is to discuss EVs and promoting and implementing
them. Please be careful to avoid potentially controversial topics so we
don't use up bandwidth and clutter people's mailboxes with posts that are
little more than members yelling at each other (with no one really
listening).
Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just as I'm about to suggest Lemondrop, I hear someone
yell Ectric!
Nice triple entendre.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dr. Andy Mars
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 11:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
Yell-ectric ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Milliron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Name my car... win a T Shirt ;)
>
> All I could think of was
> Electric Lemon,
> Mellow Yellow,
> Yellow Rose of Texas,
> Daisy,
> Electric Canary,
> John Deer (Yellow),
> Pyrite,
> Itsy bitsy teeny weeny Yellow polka dotted car,
> Golden Delicious,
> Yellow peril,
> Yellow journalism,
> Citrine,
> Banana slug,
> Amber,
> Sunflower,
> Yellow Submarine,
> Alaska is where the Huskies grow, so don't you eat that yeller snow.
> Yellow cab,
> The Egg Yolk,
> Yellow Fever,
> Yellow Labrador,
> Goldfish,
> Sunlight,
> Yellow Jacket,
>
>
> R. Matt Milliron
> 1981 Jet Electrica
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
> My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
> electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you have an idea for a bright yellow City El and want to win a T
shirt just comment your ideas and the best one wins a "EVangelists
Suck Amps" T shirt!
Unmellow-yellow
Yellow-EVer
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Professional grade electric vehicle parts and resources
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:33 PM 11/11/06 -0600, Lee Hart wrote:
<snip>
3. Replace the controller with a regular series motor controller
(Curtis, Zilla, etc.). Use this controller just for the armature,
with the EVcort's existing series inductors to simulate the series
field winding. Use a separate controller for the field (could be
as simple as a big rheostat). You'd have to rig a throttle potbox
that coordinated the armature and field controllers, so you get
(for example) full field from 0-half throttle, then full armature
and reduced field from half-full throttle.
G'day Lee, and All
For my Trike project that I'm collecting bit for I'm planning on doing the
following:
Prestolite compound motor direct to diff.
72V GE-EV1 for series field and armature (unless I can find a Curtis or
other controller at a good price in the mean time)
and
A Crouzet micro-PLC that has analogue input and PWM output to proportion
RPM to PWM driving an external transistor for the field, starting with full
field (actually fixed 50%PWM to not exceed the 36V full field rating) then
above an RPM 'knee point' the PWM% falls off proportional to speed. The
'knee point' and the max RPM value PWM% will need to be determined once on
the road.
No regen, but should provide high max torque values at lower armature
current than a series control.
Of course, we'll need to see how it works... unless someone else does it first.
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Nov 11, 2006, at 1:54 PM, mike golub wrote:
Would the neon + resistor work was well for
precharging? Can a neon bulb handle 132v or 144v?
Would the resistor be higher?
I don't think it would work well as the small neon indicators are very
low current devices. I doubt the current would be high enough to
precharge the Curtis controller.
Yes, the resistor used with a neon lamp would get larger as the input
voltage increased. Unfortunately, its not a scaling based on voltage as
the neon lamp has a large voltage drop of its own. Such a lamp could be
used as a blown precharge bulb indicator with the appropriate resistor
for your 144v pack (very rough guess, actual current should be
measured, the needed resistance would be around 150% of what is used
for 120 volt operation.)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:15 AM 11/11/06 -0600, Lee Hart wrote:
Paul G. wrote:
I had one more idea. A small bottle of dry compressed air (or other gas
like CO2) with a little regulator designed to maintain around 1/2 psi.
This could be plumbed with a small plastic or rubber tube and feed in
using one of the threaded adjustment holes. With a slight positive
pressure inside it wouldn't suck in outside air as it cools. (if I
understand CO2's properties correctly it would help slightly with cooling too)
If the case is sealed well enough to maintain 1/2 psi pressure inside it,
then you can just pressurize it with dry air and forget it. But
realistically, it will be difficult to seal a case that tight if it wasn't
designed for it.
G'day Lee, and All
I'll second that, having built enclosures in the past that were able to
keep a few PSI in for months, it takes a lot of effort - including sealing
all cables that breach the seal (including sealing the cables so that there
is no gaps in the stranding of the wires).
More commonly, for example we have to put variable-frequency drives into
some pretty unfriendly environments - dairy production floors are the
wettest normal example. We get a "waterproof" electrical box (usually IP56
or IP67 rated) big enough to enclose the front part of the drive. We cut a
hole in the back of the box and mount it onto the drive so that the
heatsink sticks out the back and seal around the join between the edge of
the box and the heatsink with neutral cure 'silicone' sealer (this also
works for very dusty environments). If there is clean, dry compressed air
available (for example several sites have refrigerant driers on their
compressed air, so below freezing dew point of the air) we put very low
flow rate compressed air supply to the enclosure - it doesn't actually
pressurize it, but means that as it leaks it is dry air leaking out, not
wet air leaking in. If there is no dry air available we put some sachets of
dessicant (silica gel) into the box.
If the device is designed to bolt up to a heatsink, we tend to cut a step
around the face of the heatsink so that the mating face is proud (sticks up
above the box wall) inside the box, seal the heatsink to the enclosure and
bolt the device onto the inside.
The first approach may be suitable for Raptor and similar controllers (I
have never seen inside a Raptor to know if the cooling airflow goes over
the electronics). The second method is what I'd be doing with a Curtis (and
will if I find a Curtis for the trike).
Hope this helps
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
NOTE that the design which is shown has 8 + 8 batteries
(6 font, 10 rear) to give series/parallel configurations
for the contactor controller.
The pictures show 4 + 4 batteries, so besides being
more limited in range, it will also have low speed and
is not allowed on the Freeway. (Top speed 55 mph)
I have no knowledge of the motor (the ad lists "unknown")
and if it was changed together with the battery reconfig.
You may try to contact NEEAA if you are interested.
Bidding seem to have stopped at $900.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 'lectric leo on ebay
On 10 Nov 2006 at 8:43, Rush wrote:
> 1980 Renault Electric Leo[pard] Philadelphia...
>
> Ebay - 160050313915
I love the way they mounted the voltmeter and ammeter. Very stylish. A
true contemporary design statement.
http://tinyurl.com/y3ut4d
On 11 Nov 2006 at 0:52, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> The car looks nice it should go for about 5 to 7k.
Look again. It has some small to medium-size dents and what appears to be
some rust damage on one of the rear quarters. The seats appear to have been
fixed with some kind of vinyl seat covers.
There are also the considerable functional and safety limitations of a
Lectric Leopard. A few years ago it might have sold for $1k or so. Even
today I wouldn't pay over $2k for an EV like this, but that's me. It may go
for a few thousand. I'll be surprised to see 5-7k, but I could be wrong.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
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