EV Digest 6155
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: New Thunder-Sky Lithium Ion Battery 30Ah - 800Ah
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Alternator hacks, WAS: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) Re: Fox Interview part of EDTA Conference
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: New Thunder-Sky Lithium Ion Battery 30Ah - 800Ah
by "Obrien, Haskell W." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: degree of slope
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Your next ev will fusion electric TEEN GOES NUCLEAR: He creates fusion in
his Oakland Township home
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Alternator hacks, WAS: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: New Thunder-Sky Lithium Ion Battery 30Ah - 800Ah
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Generator alternator welder plans
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Battery questions
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Newbie question about batteries
by "John H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Polarity on compound motor?
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) early-style strut bearings for Rabbit
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Polarity on compound motor?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: early-style strut bearings for Rabbit
by "Mike Harvey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Michaela's requests (was RE: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?)
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Newbie question about batteries
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: New Thunder-Sky Lithium Ion Battery 30Ah - 800Ah
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) How to make a check valve
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Polarity on compound motor?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On 11/21/06, Obrien, Haskell W. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Those are very interesting - for my motorcycle I keep looking at KwH/lb
ratios - That's probably the first reasonable price for a LiIon batt
I've seen.
10 of the cheapest cells @$60/ea would yield a 36v 300kwh pack weighing
only 35lbs.
Erm, actually that would be a 32V nominal pack of 0.96kWh...
You got the weight right though.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 09:19:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) >
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[email protected])
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Michaela wrote........
Would it really be a problem to built a regen unit that slides on to the
auxiliary shaft of an advanced DC motor? Or a (small) motor/compressor
combination to power an a/c ? Or a DC-DC unit that imitates the function
of an ICE alternator and not only provides > 30 A of 12 V but also charges
the battery?
Michaela
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi Michaela you've raised a relevant point for me because I'm at the stage
of thinking about adding regen to my series motor. The controller is going to
be simple home-built PWM, which I know won't have regen facilities. My B+,
battery voltage, will be between 48V-72V,and to power my ancilliaries I will
be
making a B+ to 12V dc-dc convertor. This will be a high efficiency design.
One plan I have is to take some of this convertor output at 12volts and use
it to energise the armature of an alternator.
Some car alternators can produce upto 110volts once you remove the
regulator. of course, current drops off too, but it's no big issue for me to
find a
12V/180Amp alternator for £50 here. At 48V thats 45 Amps give or take.
So instead of using regen via the main motor I plan to power the
alternator(s) from a belt drive attached at the main drive transfer pulley and
energise
the armature when I want regen braking. I say alternators in the plural
sense, because 2 or 3 in parallel are, although wasteful of space, capable of
producing over 120Amps of recharge current and braking effort. There are some
alternators, like the AC203, which are capable of producing 300Amps on their
own
The beauty of this system is that there would be next to no drive drag when
under power but just as importantly many alternators we see over here in the
UK also have a vacuum pump attached to them to act as a brake servo vacuum
pump, so fitting a combined alternator/pump ought to kill two birds at once.
I have a great document which details building your own generator from a car
alternator and a stationary petrol engine, which covers the steps necessary
to make an alternator produce high voltage outputs, anyone interested should
drop me a line.
Chris Barron
15kW series motor, 72V of flooded 900AH batteries, but no car yet... !!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When will it air and where?
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 1:46 pm, Chip Gribben wrote:
Just had a great interview with Stacey Cohan who is the Fox News
reporter. Stacey used to work at Channel 9.
Apparently, the interview is part of Fox's coverage of the EDTA
Conference coming up next week. I wasn't aware of that until they
mentioned when this would air. Stacey said she would be at the
conference covering that event.
They wanted to get some footage of a homebuilt EV and interview people
who are building their own alt fuel vehicles.
I took them for a ride down Route 198 and squealed the tires taking
off and they thought that was cool. Then we came back and they got in
their car and filmed the EV going down the road.
After we came back from that trip they filmed some of the other EV
projects I'm building in the garage including a custom low-rider bike
built with WaveCrest parts. They filmed it with the rear hub motor
spinning. Stacey thought the hub motor was really neat.
They also took some pictures of the Elek-Trac.
So I think they left pretty impressed with the whole EV thing.
Just as they were leaving Dave came down the street in his JET EV.
Dave was able to make some good points saying that the backyard
hobbyists are responsible for starting and keeping the EV movement
alive which I thought was cool.
Chip
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks. Apparently not enough coffee this morning - and my spreadsheet
got toasted.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Evan Tuer
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 10:35 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New Thunder-Sky Lithium Ion Battery 30Ah - 800Ah
On 11/21/06, Obrien, Haskell W. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Those are very interesting - for my motorcycle I keep looking at
KwH/lb
> ratios - That's probably the first reasonable price for a LiIon batt
> I've seen.
>
> 10 of the cheapest cells @$60/ea would yield a 36v 300kwh pack
weighing
> only 35lbs.
>
Erm, actually that would be a 32V nominal pack of 0.96kWh...
You got the weight right though.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would agree with Tony and would pay a premium but not for the second
paragraph turkey lead-acid system. As it is only desirable during the holidays.
Don
In a message dated 11/21/2006 4:31:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'd definitely pay a premium for a "turnkey" battery system, that
includes BMS and on-board charger, something with 300V, 80aH capacity or
higher. Lithium (LiFE) or at least NiMH.
It'll probably be a very expensive even without being turnkey though,
but even a turnkey lead-acid system is desirable. :)
- Tony
MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I think some EV suppliers also sell
what "has worked for them" or
what they are comfortable with. That does not mean there is something
better for the same price or slightly more. I think you will see more
people converting newer cars in the near future (I know of 6 brand
new car conversions started this month) and these people will desire
reliable and simple solutions even if they cost much more. Why spend
about the same $ on a vacuum setup with multiple parts that were not
made for each other, take up more space and much time to piece it
together when you can get a small OEM solution from victor for about
the same price or most likely less and it is simple, reliable and
small? This does not always apply but many of these choices are
overlooked or not known about. It takes research to find all the
right parts, too bad the list does not have a best practices area or
something like that...
People will be willing to spend much more for a battery solution if
it is packaged well and has weight and performance benefits. Less
weight may cost more but it means doing it less often, possibly
leaving the suspension
stock, safer stopping, etc. There can be much value there over the
life of the pack, if it is available...
M
On Nov 20, 2006, at 10:11 PM, David Roden wrote:
> On 19 Nov 2006 at 18:27, Michaela Merz wrote:
>
>> Well David: I guess you speak for yourself ;)
>
> Yes and no. ;-)
>
>> I am sure a lot of folks wouldn't mind spending serious money for
>> the products we would like to see.
>
> Some of them, sure. How many? I don't know. In general, it
> appears to me
> that the majority of EV hobbyists want their parts to be as cheap as
> possible. It seems that many won't pay $1000 for a commercial
> product if
> they can adapt a $50 surplus item with a few weekends of effort.
>
> One way to find out the potential market for high-end EV products
> would be
> to ask Victor how many Brusa chargers he sells vs. the number of
> PFCs that
> Rich sells, or how many Siemens drives he sells each year vs. the
> number of
> ADC + Zilla/Curtis/Whatever combinations that EVParts sells. It's
> not the
> exact answer to your question, but it might suggest how many people
> opt for
> somewhat costlier and more sophisticated products with more
> features and
> safeguards, vs. cheaper ones that have more raw power and need some
> garage
> tinkering.
>
>> But - the unfortunate truth is: Most EV dealers sell the same stuff.
>
> Maybe that's because that's all there is to sell, or because that's
> what
> their customers ask for most. Or both. I'll let the dealers
> address this
> one.
>
>> What
>> about a 'regen' module, an a/c system (or at least a motor/
>> compressor combo),
>> what about a range extender generator, a combination dc-dc battery
>> charger
>> system?
>
> All good ideas, but what is the demand for those items? I'd say
> that will
> determine if, and when, they become available.
>
> One of these items, the APU genset, was more or less available as a
> commercial product about 10 years ago - the Fisher Ranger. It had
> a 13.5kW,
> 240 volt, 3 phase alternator. Fisher would configure it for whatever
> battery your EV used. It was a bit pricey - $10,000 list. I don't
> think
> they sold very many. I have no idea where this company is today;
> maybe one
> of our Florida correspondents knows.
>
> http://www.evdl.org/docs/fisher-ranger-700.jpg
>
> Again, not to be discouraging, but we have to be realistic - the
> hobbyist EV
> market just is not a very profitable one.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Howard,
That's looks like the hill I use to climb every day to work, which was 2 miles
long and got steeper at exit.
What you need is larger over all gear ratio. I would approach the bottom of
this hill in 3 rd gear with is a 5.57:1 that could get up to 92 mph on a down
hill run before I would go up this hill.
I was using 300 AH batteries which the voltage sag would not go below 165 volts
from a 180 volt battery pack. The 165 volts was the rating of my GE 11.5
incher.
About 3/4 up this hill I would hit about 600 amps, so I downshifted to 2nd gear
which is now a overall ratio of 13.925:1 which is about 36 mph at 6000 rpm at
300 to 400 amp which was about at the exit.
The exit went up about 1/2 mile which I had to shift to 1st gear which at about
500 feet from the stop at the top. The overall gear ratio at this point is now
19.495:1 which is about 25 mph at 6000 rpm at about 300 amps.
This work for me for 10 years with no problems using the 300 AH cells. Then I
reduced my weight by 1000 lbs and use 235 ah Exide 6 volts. I had to shift
down to 1st gear for about 1/2 the length and craw to the top.
I did another mod to test out a parallel hybrid, so I install a GM V6 that
would kick in or would come from idle and run up to the same speed of the
motor, then with a in and out electric activated clutch, the motor would assist
the electric motor with the current relays which I adjusted to 175 amps.
The motor would assist the engine when the vacuum would drop below 15 in.hg.
One advantage of using a parallel hybrid is that the engines is running all the
accessories and can be a backup system .
The disadvantage I had, was slow speed driving (city driving 15 mph average)
that the mpg was worst because the engine was hauling extra weight around. If
I can keep the speed up at about 35 mph, then the ICE side would be about 33
mpg.
I do not drive this hill any longer, so I converted to Pure EV where the motor
ampere stays between 150 to 200 amps and the battery amps is at 40 to 80 amps.
Try to input your date in to Uve's Electric Vehicle Calculator and see what
happens.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: howard maroz<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 10:22 AM
Subject: degree of slope
My original post regarding 10 degree of slope was calculated using a digital
level on the floor of my car. It read 4 degrees on a level surface and 14
degrees at the steepest portion of the hill. The sign at the top of the hill
states "7% grade, trucks use low gear". I have no reason not to trust the level
but the hill is not 10 degree continuous. Also, it is only 3 mi long, not 5 mi
as I originally stated. My concern remains that if it is not reasonably
feasable to find a motor and battery supply, I might have to abandon the
project. I already have a significant investment into this project so this is
a big delima for me. I put my Ford Explorer in nuetral at the top of the hill
and coasted to the bottom by just tapping the brakes on the way down. I don't
know how this test would relate to my electric Beetle.
Howard
---------------------------------
Sponsored Link
$200,000 mortgage for $660/mo - 30/15 yr fixed, reduce debt, home equity -
Click now for info
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok ok. A little off topic but I just want to remind people that
homebuilding batteries and systems is well within the realm of
reasonable choices - caparatively it is very acheivable.
Anyway this shows why people should stop thinking that practical
machinery need to be done in some billion dollar manufacturing plant of
lab.
That includes good homebuilt batteries.
http://www.freep.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/
20061119/NEWS03/611190639
Published: November 19. 2006 3:00AM
Oakland County
TEEN GOES NUCLEAR: He creates fusion in his Oakland Township home
November 19, 2006
Email this
Print this
BY GINA DAMRON
FREE PRESS STAFF WRITER
Thiago Olson, 17, stands near his nuclear fusion reactor, which he calls
"the Fusor," at home in Oakland Township on Friday. After more than two
years and 1,000 hours of research, the Stoney Creek High School senior,
with a little help from his dad, built the machine. (PATRICIA
BECK/Detroit Free Press)
On the surface, Thiago Olson is like any typical teenager.
He's on the cross country and track teams at Stoney Creek High School in
Rochester Hills. He's a good-looking, clean-cut 17-year-old with a 3.75
grade point average, and he has his eyes fixed on the next big step:
college.
But to his friends, Thiago is known as "the mad scientist."
In the basement of his parents' Oakland Township home, tucked away in an
area most aren't privy to see, Thiago is exhausting his love of physics
on a project that has taken him more than two years and 1,000 hours to
research and build -- a large, intricate machine that , on a small
scale, creates nuclear fusion.
Nuclear fusion -- when atoms are combined to create energy -- is "kind
of like the holy grail of physics," he said.
In fact, on www.fusor.net, the Stoney Creek senior is ranked as the 18th
amateur in the world to create nuclear fusion. So, how does he do it?
Pointing to the steel chamber where all the magic happens, Thiago said
on Friday that this piece of the puzzle serves as a vacuum. The air is
sucked out and into a filter.
Then, deuterium gas -- a form of hydrogen -- is injected into the
vacuum. About 40,000 volts of electricity are charged into the chamber
from a piece of equipment taken from an old mammogram machine. As the
machine runs, the atoms in the chamber are attracted to the center and
soon -- ta da -- nuclear fusion.
Thiago said when that happens, a small intense ball of energy forms.
He first achieved fusion in September and has been perfecting the
machine he built in his parents' garage ever since.
This year, Thiago was a semifinalist for the Siemens Foundation's
National Research Competition. He plans to enter the Science and
Engineering Fair of Metropolitan Detroit, which is in March, in hopes of
qualifying to be in the Intel International Science and Engineering Fair
in New Mexico in May.
To his mom and dad, he's still reminiscent of the 5-year-old who toiled
over a kid-friendly chemistry set and, then at age 9, was able to change
the battery in his older brother's car.
Now, in a small room in the basement, Thiago has set up a science lab --
where bottles marked "potassium hydroxide" and "methanol" sit on shelves
and a worn, old book, titled "The Atomic Fingerprint: Neutron Activation
Analysis" piled among others in the empty sink.
Thiago's mom, Natalice Olson, initially was leery of the project, even
though the only real danger from the fusion machine is the high voltage
and small amount of X-rays emitted through a glass window in the vacuum
chamber -- through which Olson videotapes the fusion in action..
But, she wasn't really surprised, since he was always coming up with
lofty ideas.
"Originally, he wanted to build a hyperbolic chamber," she said, adding
that she promptly said no. But, when he came asking about the nuclear
fusion machine, she relented.
"I think it was pretty brave that he could think that he was capable to
do something so amazing," she said.
Thiago's dad, Mark Olson, helped with some of the construction and
electrical work. To get all of the necessary parts, Thiago scoured the
Internet, buying items on eBay and using his age to persuade
manufacturers to give him discounts. The design of the model came from
his own ideas and some suggestions from other science-lovers he met
online.
Someday, he hopes to work for the federal government -- just like his
grandfather, Clarence Olson, who designed tanks for the Department of
Defense after World War II. Thiago, who is modest and humble about his
accomplishment, said he knew from an early age what he would do for a
living.
"I was always interested in science," he said. "It's always been my best
subject in school."
But, his mom had other ideas.
"I thought he was going to be a cook," Natalice Olson said, "because he
liked to mix things."
Contact GINA DAMRON at 248-351-3293 or at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Email this
Print this
Post a CommentView All Comments
BTW, this story made the geekiest web site in the world - Slashdot.
http://hardware.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=06/11/21/0422206&from=rss
Consider yourself honored to be read by the elite geeks!
Jim Lyons
http://poconopcdoctor.com
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:31 pm
The "hyperbolic chamber" got me laughing. But it was in a quote -- so
I'm wondering who knew they were joking. The mom? The reporter? Or am I
the only one laughing?
If it was the mom, props for her.
If it was the reporter quoting verbatim and knowingly, fair enough.
If it was the reporter misquoting by accident, for shame.
And if it was the reporter quoting verbatim and unknowingly, that's the
funniest.
-- Tom Dalton, Doer of Good
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:06 pm
Post a CommentView All Comments
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Michaela,
You can run your 12 volt accessories with a alternator. It can act like
compression braking as on a ICE if you have the alternator loaded up.
As for charging your battery pack, this only can be done while the battery pack
is disconnected from the controller during a coast down of the EV.
You cannot charge the battery while the controller and motor is using current
from the battery. The controller my be drawing 200 amps from the battery and
your alternator is only good for 100 amps, so your alternator will go on
overload and slow the speed of the drive motor and increase the drive motor
ampere. That's why a alternator is shut down during the starting of a engine
which may draw over 300 amps at that point.
Lets say you have a 160 amp alternator which the regulators can be adjusted
from 13.5 to 15 volts. 160A x 15V = 240 watts.
Then you need a minimum of 3000 watt Inverter at 240 Vac at 60 hz which woulld
be about 3000/240 = 12.5 amps.
3000 watts is about 3000/746 = 4 hp that the drive motor will used to drive the
alternator.
3000 watts is about (240 x 12.5)/746 also = 4 hp that amount or charging that
it will take to charge the battery.
So you do not gain anything, even if this is at 100 percent efficency, You end
up in resending motion.
You would also need a large deep cycle 12 volt battery to be in parallel with
the inverter, which will shut down when the alternator is below exciter speed,
this battery allows you to maintain a voltage above 12 volts to run your 12
volt accessories at the lower alternator speeds or when the EV is a stop.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: Alternator hacks, WAS: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 09:19:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Parallel Nimh is Here NOW- Misinformation?
From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>_
(mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>) >
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>_
(mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Michaela wrote........
Would it really be a problem to built a regen unit that slides on to the
auxiliary shaft of an advanced DC motor? Or a (small) motor/compressor
combination to power an a/c ? Or a DC-DC unit that imitates the function
of an ICE alternator and not only provides > 30 A of 12 V but also charges
the battery?
Michaela
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi Michaela you've raised a relevant point for me because I'm at the stage
of thinking about adding regen to my series motor. The controller is going to
be simple home-built PWM, which I know won't have regen facilities. My B+,
battery voltage, will be between 48V-72V,and to power my ancilliaries I will
be
making a B+ to 12V dc-dc convertor. This will be a high efficiency design.
One plan I have is to take some of this convertor output at 12volts and use
it to energise the armature of an alternator.
Some car alternators can produce upto 110volts once you remove the
regulator. of course, current drops off too, but it's no big issue for me to
find a
12V/180Amp alternator for £50 here. At 48V thats 45 Amps give or take.
So instead of using regen via the main motor I plan to power the
alternator(s) from a belt drive attached at the main drive transfer pulley
and energise
the armature when I want regen braking. I say alternators in the plural
sense, because 2 or 3 in parallel are, although wasteful of space, capable of
producing over 120Amps of recharge current and braking effort. There are some
alternators, like the AC203, which are capable of producing 300Amps on their
own
The beauty of this system is that there would be next to no drive drag when
under power but just as importantly many alternators we see over here in the
UK also have a vacuum pump attached to them to act as a brake servo vacuum
pump, so fitting a combined alternator/pump ought to kill two birds at once.
I have a great document which details building your own generator from a car
alternator and a stationary petrol engine, which covers the steps necessary
to make an alternator produce high voltage outputs, anyone interested should
drop me a line.
Chris Barron
15kW series motor, 72V of flooded 900AH batteries, but no car yet... !!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The interesting thing about these cells it that they're starting to
compete with high end lead acid prices. Comparing them to Optima
yellow top D34/78 costing $160 with the following spec:
* 12 Volts
* 55 Amp Hours
* [EMAIL PROTECTED]: 750 Amps
* [EMAIL PROTECTED]: 870 Amps
* J240 Life Cycle: 10,000 to 12,000 cycles
* Cycle Life - Deep Cycle: 350 Cycles
* Length: 10 in.
* Width: 6.8 in.
* Height: 7.8 in.
Presuming we get 30 Ah at 1/C rate the cost per kWh for the optima is $450
At 350 Cycles the kWh cost / cycle is $1.28
The cost per kWh for the LFP cells is $625. At 80% dod we get 1000
cycles (or so they claim) so the kWh cost / cycle is $0.625
Not accounting for sag, the cost per kW for the optima is $16
The cost per killowatt for the LFP cell is $208
So clearly the optima is wastly superior when it comes to power, which
also illustrates that the comparison is a bit unfair to the Optima.
This is ofcourse not a complete comparison and we all know what they
say about liars, damn liars and battery vendors. I think Chinese
battery vendors is one step worse.
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've uploaded the files to a remote server, i forgot to mention the size of
the file was 14MB so some ISP's reject it in their emails.
File available here
_http://www.savefile.com/projects/1046775_
(http://www.savefile.com/projects/1046775)
_http://www.savefile.com/files/279320_ (http://www.savefile.com/files/279320)
And if anyone is interesting in watching my slow car build progress, (the
progress is slow, not the car !) I started a blog here....
_Electric Car Building_
(http://journals.aol.co.uk/fixitsan/electric-car-building/)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'l bet a battery genius here will know these answers fasters than I can
find them on my own.
In general what is the relationship between distance between plates,
amount of electrolyte, surface area of the plates and other such
physical characteristics and capacity volts amps or charging speed of a
lead acid battery.
More plates means more volts I know.
But what about the greater detail of therest?
And if 20 lead acid batteries all used the same circulated electrolyte
pumped between them wouldn't that ensure they charged and discharged
evenly?
Thanks.
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I found this board while looking for sources of Nickel Iron batteries.
Although I probably won't build an electric vehicle, I am in need of NiFe
batteries for our off-grid home.
If anyone has any sources for these batteries (new or used), whether they be
original Edison Cells or Eagle-Picher or any others, I would appreciate the
info.
Thanks,
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 21 Nov 2006 01:11:31 -0500, you wrote:
>On 19 Nov 2006 at 18:27, Michaela Merz wrote:
>
>> Well David: I guess you speak for yourself ;)
>
>Yes and no. ;-)
>
>> I am sure a lot of folks wouldn't mind spending serious money for
>> the products we would like to see.
I wouldn't mind.
>Some of them, sure. How many? I don't know. In general, it appears to me
>that the majority of EV hobbyists want their parts to be as cheap as
>possible. It seems that many won't pay $1000 for a commercial product if
>they can adapt a $50 surplus item with a few weekends of effort.
I disagree. I am forced to adapt parts. I am always on the lookout
for bargains. It is not that I won't pay 1 grand, I just can't afford
it. My wife has been very tolerant of my hobby. "Honey, I want/need
a $2000 controller, how can we fit it into the budget?" I did order
the best controller on the market that I could afford. I would go out
and buy a Toyota production OEM electric vehicle (payments) if I
could. Just think, regen, heat/cool, LRR tires, straight from the
factory. I don't really want to mess with making a 24 year old car
road worthy. I do want to make a statement with what I drive. It is
just a balance of price vs quality.
R. Matt Milliron
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A vague recollection from a long-past post has me wondering about the
compound motor in my Lectric Leopard. I believe someone posted that
compound motors cannot generally have their polarity reversed like a
series motor?
I understand that a series motor doesn't care about polarity. It
works exactly the same either way, turning the same direction and
performing the same. (Reversing is done by reversing the polarity of
either the field or armature, not both.)
Initially believing my motor was a series, I paid no attention to
polarity when I disconnected it years ago. Now I know it's a compound
and wonder if polarity maters.
I know it turns the same direction regardless of polarity. Gave it a
quick test both ways. Here's how my compound motor is wired. Two
posts. A shunt coil is connected between them. Also connected
between them is a series motor: from one post current goes through the
field coil, through one set of brushes, through the armature and out
the other set of brushes to the other motor post.
I guess I'm wondering if a compound motor turns the same regardless of
polarity, but the magnetic fields work together properly only with one
polarity? I can't see how that would be, but how else to explain why
a compound motor would be polarity sensitive?
Do I need to be concerned about this? If so, how do I determine what
is the correct polarity? Relative motor speed at no load?
TIA for any help,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello All,
I have a 1980 VW Rabbit converted to electric via the VoltsRabbit
kit with some modifications.
I also have a new mechanic that has observed that the gap between
the metal plate and the top of the rubber at the top of the front
struts is rather large. My first set of front struts from the
VoltsRabbit kit died after about 15K miles partially from bearing
failure. After another 15K miles or so I'm looking at replacing
another set of front struts. The bearings in these seem ok, so
far, but the bounce when pushing the front bumper down is
starting to get a little un-controlled, so its time for new front
struts, as well as rear ones. According to this mechanic, 1977
strut bearings are not as prone to push-through issues. Anybody
know anything about this, and where to get them?
Any suggestions for struts (favorites)? I have KYB, Boge ProGas,
and Bilstein (pricey, ouch!) under consideration.
Thanks,
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
http://www.geocities.com/chursch/bizcard.bmp
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Chris,
What you described is a compound long shunt motor.
The following is from my motor hand book:
The main fields are parallel with a winding that is series with the armature.
The main parallel winding carries a exciting voltage proportional to the
terminal voltage.
The series winding carries a current proportional to the armature current.
In order to reverse a motor, it is necessary to reverse the current in the
field, or in the armature, or a armature series with a winding, but not both.
If you only have a two terminal motor, you must break out the armature and
series winding, (keeping the armature and series winding still connected
together, but connected them to two more terminal post on the motor.
Then you can either reverse the motor by reversing the polarity to either.
If the motor is set to run in one direction, you should check the angle of the
brushes setting on the commentator. The brushes may be angle counter to the
rotor direction, so you do not chip away the edges of the brush.
My brushes are set at 15 degrees to the left, so the motor is set to go
clockwise or the same direction my engine turn when it was a ICE.
A motor shop might be able to breakout the armature-series winding for you and
rebuild a new brush holder.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Tromley<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: Polarity on compound motor?
A vague recollection from a long-past post has me wondering about the
compound motor in my Lectric Leopard. I believe someone posted that
compound motors cannot generally have their polarity reversed like a
series motor?
I understand that a series motor doesn't care about polarity. It
works exactly the same either way, turning the same direction and
performing the same. (Reversing is done by reversing the polarity of
either the field or armature, not both.)
Initially believing my motor was a series, I paid no attention to
polarity when I disconnected it years ago. Now I know it's a compound
and wonder if polarity maters.
I know it turns the same direction regardless of polarity. Gave it a
quick test both ways. Here's how my compound motor is wired. Two
posts. A shunt coil is connected between them. Also connected
between them is a series motor: from one post current goes through the
field coil, through one set of brushes, through the armature and out
the other set of brushes to the other motor post.
I guess I'm wondering if a compound motor turns the same regardless of
polarity, but the magnetic fields work together properly only with one
polarity? I can't see how that would be, but how else to explain why
a compound motor would be polarity sensitive?
Do I need to be concerned about this? If so, how do I determine what
is the correct polarity? Relative motor speed at no load?
TIA for any help,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I run Bilstein Heavy Duty Struts with H&R Sport Springs on my 92 with Febi
mounts. So far so good. My VW guys has told me to keep away from the noname
mounts and stick with Febi or OEM. Also, there is a company called Bonrath
that makes racing mounts with adjustable camber (which you probably dont
need). But they are heavy duty mounts made for tuned suspensions. You can
find their stuff at http://www.bonrath.com/e/go.htm. It's all about what
your willing to pay. Strut mounts are a pain to replace for sure.
Hope this helps.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL post" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: early-style strut bearings for Rabbit
Hello All,
I have a 1980 VW Rabbit converted to electric via the VoltsRabbit
kit with some modifications.
I also have a new mechanic that has observed that the gap between
the metal plate and the top of the rubber at the top of the front
struts is rather large. My first set of front struts from the
VoltsRabbit kit died after about 15K miles partially from bearing
failure. After another 15K miles or so I'm looking at replacing
another set of front struts. The bearings in these seem ok, so
far, but the bounce when pushing the front bumper down is
starting to get a little un-controlled, so its time for new front
struts, as well as rear ones. According to this mechanic, 1977
strut bearings are not as prone to push-through issues. Anybody
know anything about this, and where to get them?
Any suggestions for struts (favorites)? I have KYB, Boge ProGas,
and Bilstein (pricey, ouch!) under consideration.
Thanks,
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
http://www.geocities.com/chursch/bizcard.bmp
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Michaela,
Michaela Merz writes:
> Would it really be a problem to built a regen unit that
> slides on to the auxiliary shaft of an advanced DC motor?
> Or a (small) motor/compressor combination to power an a/c ?
> Or a DC-DC unit that imitates the function of an ICE
> alternator and not only provides > 30 A of 12 V but
> also charges the battery?
IIRC, you've previously offered to put funds on the table, and made a call out
seeking offers and received none (at least on the first two items), but I don't
recall any actual dollar value being posted.
On a list as vast as the EVDL, there will be any number of people capable of
doing any of these items. Question is, are you willing to pay enough to drag
them away from whatever profitable or otherwise activity currently occupies
their time?
Listing what you're willing to pay would provide some clarification.
If you still don't get any takers, from the entire EVDL, then the simple truth
is that the dollars just aren't there to warrant the work/parts involved and/or
the gamble that there will be more willing buyers like you out there to spread
the development costs.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.beutilityfree.com/ has Chinese-made NiFe batteries in a variety of
sizes.
John H <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi,
I found this board while looking for sources of Nickel Iron batteries.
Although I probably won't build an electric vehicle, I am in need of NiFe
batteries for our off-grid home.
If anyone has any sources for these batteries (new or used), whether they be
original Edison Cells or Eagle-Picher or any others, I would appreciate the
info.
Thanks,
John
---------------------------------
Sponsored Link
Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $510,000 Mortgage for $1,698/mo - Calculate
new house payment
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
10 of the cheapest cells @$60/ea would yield a 36v 300kwh pack weighing
only 35lbs.
I think you forgot to cary a one somewhere.
10 cells at 30Ah, 3.2V nominal = 1kwh 32V pack.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This may be overkill for vacuum systems but for diesel engines & fuel it may
work fine. It seems that many brass connectors are machined very well
inside the shaft & a ball bearing of the right size will make a fairly good
seal. Use two pieces (screw together barbs for instance) put the ball
bearing inside. As you blow air through or suck a vacuum you will notice
the ball bearing will catch on each side stopping the flow. Now with a
needle file cut into the seat on the side you want flow on. You just made a
check valve useable for vacuum or fuel. I made four cuts each at 90°. You
may be able to find rubber balls which might seat better than steel but
you'll have to cut bigger slots in the seats. Lawrence Rhodes.......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope, polarity doesn't matter, at least not on the motor you've described.
Reversing the polarity reverses the fields all around so it works exactly
the same regardless of polarity.
> A vague recollection from a long-past post has me wondering about the
> compound motor in my Lectric Leopard. I believe someone posted that
> compound motors cannot generally have their polarity reversed like a
> series motor?
>
> I understand that a series motor doesn't care about polarity. It
> works exactly the same either way, turning the same direction and
> performing the same. (Reversing is done by reversing the polarity of
> either the field or armature, not both.)
>
> Initially believing my motor was a series, I paid no attention to
> polarity when I disconnected it years ago. Now I know it's a compound
> and wonder if polarity maters.
>
> I know it turns the same direction regardless of polarity. Gave it a
> quick test both ways. Here's how my compound motor is wired. Two
> posts. A shunt coil is connected between them. Also connected
> between them is a series motor: from one post current goes through the
> field coil, through one set of brushes, through the armature and out
> the other set of brushes to the other motor post.
>
> I guess I'm wondering if a compound motor turns the same regardless of
> polarity, but the magnetic fields work together properly only with one
> polarity? I can't see how that would be, but how else to explain why
> a compound motor would be polarity sensitive?
>
> Do I need to be concerned about this? If so, how do I determine what
> is the correct polarity? Relative motor speed at no load?
>
> TIA for any help,
> Chris
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
