EV Digest 6217
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: [BULK] Re: A different kind of EV video :) .. 3 wheeler EV ..
stability issues
by "Randy Burleson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Fw: Good News....this is interesting
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: DC converter wiring and safety contactors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: [EV] RE: Some newbie questions
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Battery sizing etal from a newbie
by "Marty Escarcega" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: 3 wheeler EV .. stability issues
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Good News....this is interesting
by "Seth Myers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Galvanization
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: If I only need a 5 mile range ... really
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: [BULK] RE: If I only need a 5 mile range ... really
by "Lawrence Lile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: A different kind of EV video :)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: OT. Changing the value of a wound resistor.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Petition to support the development of battery, hybrid and fuel cell
electric vehicles
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Power Steering (was 88 Jetta power steering stuff??)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Cheap trikes, Re: Battery sizing etal from a newbie
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Power Steering (was 88 Jetta power steering stuff??)
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) planning on abusing a PMG132
by "Robert Blasutig" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Lighted connectors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Lighted connectors
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: planning on abusing a PMG132
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: [EV] RE: Some newbie questions
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: [EV] Re: [EV] RE: Some newbie questions
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) EVLN(ZENN nEVs in stock for test drives & purchase)
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: OT. Changing the value of a wound resistor.
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: any one know more about this?
by "England Nathan-r25543" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: any one know more about this?
by "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> In the experiments we've done with 3 wheel bicycles, (yes, some of
them were
> EV's) you definitely want the two wheels in front for cornering.
> If you are turning and braking, then a three wheeler with one wheel in
front
> goes right over on it's side. I'm skeptical of all the commercial
3-wheeler
> EV's out there. The steering wheels need to be in front, a rear steer
vehicle
> is possible but creates some interesting challenges.
You just can't generalize that to all vehicles in all cases. Wheelbase,
track width, and center of gravity change too many pieces of the
equation. Nikki's EL has a low seating position and all the heavy bits
low and between the paired rear wheels.
I personally prefer a tail-dragger design, with the mechanical weight
between a pair of driven front wheels, and passenger weight within the
triangle determined by the wheels... but if a local dealer had the EL on
the lot ready to go, I'd have a tough time turning away.
Randii
Randy Burleson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: Ev List <[email protected]>
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fw: Good News....this is interesting
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 11:33:16 -0800
this is interesting
You I think there should be a huge tax credit in places like la for
converting your second car to electric. I am thinking of one car having
less than 40 roundtrip ability which could easily be done with cheap
batteries, one easy motor and no regen capacity.
Frankly most la driving is much less than 40 miles roundtrip.
This is the missing niche.
Keep your one gas guzzler for highway trips but low tech convert your daily
use vehicle for your personal electric commute for about $2000 and save
$100 to 300 a month in gas.
A tax break would help, but it still would be unlikely that an EV would be
"profitable" in the long term. The real reason people build them ( at
least, for me) is a combination of the fun and challenge of building and
driving one, and the benefit to the environment (including the
demonstration/publicity benefits).
For example, the gas savings would likely be lower than your predictions.
To save $300 a month in gas, even if you average 30 miles per day ( and that
would be a challenge with a "cheap" ev), you would have to be replacing an
ICE that got only 7 1/2 MPG. That's Hummer territory.
My daily ICE driver ( Echo) averages about 40 MPG, so I would save $56 per
month in gas ( at $2.50/gallon) if I averaged 30 miles per day. And, I will
probably average closer to 20 miles a day, if that.
So,it would take a LONG time to make back the cost of the car, components,
batteries, and electrical power.
But, that's OK with me ( and, I suspect, most EV converters)
Phil
-----Original Message-----
News
December 13, 2006 Spare Power Sufficient to Fuel Switch from Gas to
Electric Cars Existing U.S. power plants could provide enough juice to
switch 84 percent of the 220 million American vehicles on the road from
gasoline to electricity.
Now a new analysis from the U.S. Department of Energy's Pacific Northwest
National Laboratory (PNNL) offers more good news: existing electric power
plants could fuel 84 percent of "light duty" vehicles if all 220 million
cars and trucks converted to electric power overnight. "We're delighted to
see solid third-party confirmation of what the people who know best--the
utilities--have been saying for sometime," says Felix Kramer, plug-in
hybrid owner/evangelist and founder of Calcars.org.
The analysis noted that the capacity of the U.S. power infrastructure is
underutilized. Every evening--and during days of low demand--there is a
large amount of spare capacity that could easily be tapped. By charging
cars and trucks with electricity at night, American drivers could reduce
the nation's dependence on foreign oil while potentially cutting power
prices as well.
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming and
the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
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--- Begin Message ---
John Foster wrote:
I am looking at DC/DC configurations for the Dynasty IT. Our most
common problem was the aux battery getting discharged with the car
(& DC/DC) off. When the car turned on, the DC/DC would burn out
charging up the dead aux battery.
This implies that the DC/DC is not adequately protected against
overloads. So your first issue might be to see if there's a way to turn
down or limit its maximum output current, so it it won't burn up.
The *best* solution as you have outlined is to have a 14V DC/DC
for running, with a small battery as backup with an appropriate
"smart" charger. This requires at least a diode and keyed contactor?
This a lot of extra stuff to buy, mount, and remain reliable.
Not really. The "smart" charger is really just a tiny constant voltage
"float" or "battery maintainer" type of charger. Probably no bigger than
a wall wart, and only able to charge at 13.5v max and at 1 amp or less.
You would leave it connected to the pack and 12v battery at all times.
The main DC/DC has a much higher current rating, and is set to a higher
output voltage (like 14v). But it is only switched on while driving.
How could I verify what the long term reliability will be?
Let it run a "long time" and see if it still works? :-)
Seriously, long term reliability can be estimated, but the estimates are
about as accurate as weather forecasting. The best way to know a
product's actual reliability is to put thousands of them in the hands of
customers for many years, and see how well they hold up.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> Second question is accesorys. Both cars are Citroens. They need a
> hidraulic pump running for suspension, brakes and steering. An electric
> 12volt motor spinning at something like an ICE idle is doable? How much
> power would something like that eat? I can live without power steering in
> the smaller car, but not on the larger one.
>
An update...
I am going to convert a 1970s Citroen GS. I can pick a good one with little
rust for US$600-800 (cheap around here). Systems are dirt simple (3 fuses
in the fuse box and thats it) Plenty of space for batteries and light enough
that a 72/96 volt system will do. I may ever go to 144 volts with 12volts
Trojans and get a quick car.
Best news is I got a very strong maybe from a local tech school to make the
car's conversion a shop proyect for students. They may even pay for parts!
This is getting closer. I'll go look at a possible car tomorrow.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been through the internet FAQ files etal ad naseum :-) Sorry if this
has been repeated time and again.
I'm hell bent on converting a 3 wheel scooter from ICE to electric. Curb
weight 1100lbs.
My commute is about 6 miles round trip, all flat driving. I should be able
to recharge at work during the day.
(11 hour day) Would love to get 15 miles out of it.
48 Volt system
Delta-Q Quiq charging system
Sevcon 500A controller
Advance DC Motor nameplate rating of 36VDC Rating AU2500, model AY8-4003
3 Speed Transmission
1st gear=2.605;1
2nd gear=1.630:1
3rd gear=1.00:1
Reverse gear=3.56:1
Rear axle gear ratio=5.38:1
Would like to see 35-40mph out of it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated or links to helpful sites.
Thanks again!
Marty
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My bad, I didn't say it well at all, the article said a 3 g theoretical
tip-over point. As good street tires can only do about 1 g, it'll slide well
before it tips. <http://www.vigillante.com/vigillante1.htm>
On a side note, you can get 3 g. Dragsters do it on launch, and race cars can
do it with downforce. You are right, though, in that you can't just slap super
tires on any car and do 3 g. A couple of real-life data points: My Camaro with
a bone stock suspension and race tires, pull 1.03 g left and right per a
g-tech. Another guy in my autocross club pulled 1.4 lateral g. This was on a
super-grippy brushed concrete surface.
----- Original Message ----
From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 10:58:43 PM
Subject: Re: 3 Wheelers WAS Re: [BULK] Re: A different kind of EV video
:) .. 3 wheeler EV .. stability issues
Where did you get the 3G lateral from? The add says 1G. I've never even
heard of tires that could provide 3G lateral.
> <http://www.vigillante.com/vigillante1.htm>
>
> One wheel in front, and claims to do 3 lateral g, and be very stable under
> heavy breaking.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 6:17:07 PM
> Subject: 3 Wheelers WAS Re: [BULK] Re: A different kind of EV video :)
> .. 3 wheeler EV .. stability issues
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lawrence Lile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 6:55 PM
> Subject: RE: [BULK] Re: A different kind of EV video :) .. 3 wheeler EV ..
> stability issues
>
>
>>
>> In the experiments we've done with 3 wheel bicycles, (yes, some of them
>> were EV's) you definitely want the two wheels in front for cornering.
>> If you are turning and braking, then a three wheeler with one wheel in
>> front goes right over on it's side. I'm skeptical of all the commercial
>> 3-wheeler EV's out there. The steering wheels need to be in front, a
>> rear steer vehicle is possible but creates some interesting challenges.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lawrence Lile,
>> Hi Lawrence, an" EVerybody;
>
> I'll go along with Jerry Dycus as to the two wheels on a 3 wheeler
> gotta
> go up front!In my tour of duties in the Orient I saw a lot of 3 wheelers.
> Mazdas I think, that resemble the Zap 3 wheel truck. Hidiously overloaded
> they trundled thrrough the street of Taipei and Saigon.( Gees! That dates
> me) I never saw any overturned, but they don't drive like Americans,
> pushing
> the limit of EVery vehicle!I saw a Zap a few months ago, asked the guy he
> said it turned over too easy, or something to that effect. it would appear
> to defy the laws of physics, like 300MPH plus Top Fuel Cars, when you try
> to
> bend it around a corner? Of course it will want to roll! I don't think
> there
> are ANY 3 wheel hiway worthy one- in-front cars?? Flame suit on, tell me
> IF
> there are? There are 3 wheel Trikes, motorcycles, but not many cars.I
> think
> that with the batteries properly placed in a 3 wheeler, it will handle
> beautifully? Jerry D? The real wheel is just providing the push, not
> steering. It would seem like alota work to make the REAR wheel steer, you
> would haftas use the front as a power axle, Guess it would work?
>
> My two Wheels worth
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
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> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
>
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If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
at the EDTA, a lady from CA mentioned something about $25 mill or so being
appropriated for transportation kinds of causes, and that some small part of
it was going to be earmerked for conversion credits (sorry I can't recall
more details) Now to just get OH to get some small portion of what's going
into the hydrogen (dis)economy for ev's ...
Seth
----- Original Message -----
From: "GWMobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Ev List" <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: Fw: Good News....this is interesting
this is interesting
You I think there should be a huge tax credit in places like la for
converting your second car to electric. I am thinking of one car having
less than 40 roundtrip ability which could easily be done with cheap
batteries, one easy motor and no regen capacity.
Frankly most la driving is much less than 40 miles roundtrip.
This is the missing niche.
Keep your one gas guzzler for highway trips but low tech convert your
daily use vehicle for your personal electric commute for about $2000 and
save $100 to 300 a month in gas.
-----Original Message-----
News
December 13, 2006 Spare Power Sufficient to Fuel Switch from Gas to
Electric Cars Existing U.S. power plants could provide enough juice to
switch 84 percent of the 220 million American vehicles on the road from
gasoline to electricity.
Now a new analysis from the U.S. Department of Energy's Pacific Northwest
National Laboratory (PNNL) offers more good news: existing electric power
plants could fuel 84 percent of "light duty" vehicles if all 220 million
cars and trucks converted to electric power overnight. "We're delighted to
see solid third-party confirmation of what the people who know best--the
utilities--have been saying for sometime," says Felix Kramer, plug-in
hybrid owner/evangelist and founder of Calcars.org.
The analysis noted that the capacity of the U.S. power infrastructure is
underutilized. Every evening--and during days of low demand--there is a
large amount of spare capacity that could easily be tapped. By charging
cars and trucks with electricity at night, American drivers could reduce
the nation's dependence on foreign oil while potentially cutting power
prices as well.
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming and
the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Galvanizing is when steel is coated with zinc. The zinc acts as a sacrificial
metal and corrodes first, before rust starts in the underlying structural metal.
There are several methods of galvanizing metal, and they have varying pluses
and minuses. That's about all I know. A google search would probably be more
informative.
David Brandt
----- Original Message ----
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 7:50:34 AM
Subject: Re: Galvanization
Tim
I'm converting a Porsche 944, and the chassis and body of this car are
galvanized. There's
virutally no rust anywhere on this 20 year old car. What's it made of? Metal is
as close as I can
get, sorry.
Dave Cover
--- Tim Gamber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi everyone i am doing a project on galvanization and would like to know a
> few products that are galvanized and what kind of metals are used for
> galvanizing. Any info on this subject would be great.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Not only does WindowsOff to school, going on a trip, or moving? Windows Live
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--- Begin Message ---
Just realize these are "used pullouts." Who knows what type of shape they
are in. I would imagine they have been sitting on float charge for a couple
of years in someone's UPS system.
Damon
From: Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: If I only need a 5 mile range ... really
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 19:13:28 -0800 (PST)
In my Festiva, ADC 9" motor, 400 A Curtis controller, I only need a max 5
mile range (its about 3.8 miles round trip). I want to lighten the car up
and save some money at the same time when I replace the pack.
If I put 10 of these in, do you think I could reliably get the 5 miles.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006121421031663&item=11-3096&catname=
That's only 120 V x 54 AH ... not much at all ... maybe a usable 5kWh.
Speeds are as follows:
~.5 miles - 25 MPH
~1 mile - 40 MPH
~.5 miles - 30 MPH
each way
4 - 5 stop signs / lights
all flat roads
Other ideas ...
Steve
---------------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---
Hop on a bike! If it's too steep, build an electric bike! Or Walk! I'd
recommend a couple of rechargeable batteries for your walkman, you'll
save a bundle. <grin>
Lawrence Lile
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of damon henry
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 10:58 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BULK] RE: If I only need a 5 mile range ... really
Importance: Low
Just realize these are "used pullouts." Who knows what type of shape
they
are in. I would imagine they have been sitting on float charge for a
couple
of years in someone's UPS system.
Damon
>From: Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: If I only need a 5 mile range ... really
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 19:13:28 -0800 (PST)
>
>In my Festiva, ADC 9" motor, 400 A Curtis controller, I only need a max
5
>mile range (its about 3.8 miles round trip). I want to lighten the car
up
>and save some money at the same time when I replace the pack.
>
> If I put 10 of these in, do you think I could reliably get the 5
miles.
>
>http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006121421031663&item=11-3096
&catname=
>
> That's only 120 V x 54 AH ... not much at all ... maybe a usable
5kWh.
>
> Speeds are as follows:
> ~.5 miles - 25 MPH
> ~1 mile - 40 MPH
> ~.5 miles - 30 MPH
> each way
>
> 4 - 5 stop signs / lights
> all flat roads
>
> Other ideas ...
>
> Steve
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy LeMeur wrote:
With rare exceptions, virtually all tadpole and delta trikes steer
with the front wheels -- One exception is the "Sidewinder" stunt
trike. Fun at slow speeds... but at anything over about 15 mph, it
is extremely dangerous and unstable. But fun!
http://www.sidewindercycle.com/
According to Buckminster Fuller's Dymaxion Car patent, rear steering
requires zero caster on the rear wheel. The sidewinder looks like it has
a huge positive caster on the rear wheel (typical of bicycles). That
means that when cornering, side force becomes steering force. No wonder
it's unstable!
Fuller also said that rear steering requires a long wheelbase (at least
2 times the track of the front wheels). The Sindewinder violates this
rule as well. This tends to aggravate the instability of the steering.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I have an 8 inch wound risistor that is 500 ohms. I need a 250 ohm resistor
of the same length. Can I insert solder between the windings to reduce the
resistance of the resistor untill I have the resistance I want? The
resistance must still change gradually up and down the length of the
resistor.
I don't think solder will stick to the nichrome element of a resistor.
But I'll bet you can rig up a temporary electroplating setup, and plate
some metal onto the nichrome to thicken it and so decrease its
resistance. Nickel and chromium come to mind (since nichrome is a nickel
and chromium alloy).
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny wrote -
> AFAIK most or all locomotive engines in the USA are diesel-electric
> "hybrids" and have been so for decades.
Don't forget all the battery operated locomotives that work in the mines where
diesel fumes are toxic...
Here's one that has some parts for sale http://www.evcltd.com/
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll be offering a self-contained unit meant for EV power steering.
Just need to update web site and settle with manufacturer. Wait
a couple of weeks if you can, at least it will be one off-shelf choice
to consider.
Victor
Dave Cover wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have a PM motor from a treadmill that I'd like to use,
but haven't had any
luck on the controller side. I'll give KB a look.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Marty and All,
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "Marty Escarcega" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Battery sizing etal from a newbie
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 08:31:53 -0700
>I've been through the internet FAQ files etal ad naseum :-)
>Sorry if this has been repeated time and again.
>
>I'm hell bent on converting a 3 wheel scooter from ICE to
>electric. Curb weight 1100lbs.
>My commute is about 6 miles round trip, all flat driving. I
>should be able to recharge at work during the day.
>(11 hour day) Would love to get 15 miles out of it.
>48 Volt system
>Delta-Q Quiq charging system
>Sevcon 500A controller
>Advance DC Motor nameplate rating of 36VDC Rating AU2500,
>model AY8-4003 3 Speed Transmission
>1st gear=2.605;1
>2nd gear=1.630:1
>3rd gear=1.00:1
>Reverse gear=3.56:1
>Rear axle gear ratio=5.38:1
>
>Would like to see 35-40mph out of it.
How about doing at a lot lower cost?
You don't need that charger, or a transmission at
all and you can use a contactor controller for great
starting power.
By using a golf cart transaxle, higher voltage,
72vdc, with larger dia wheels, build a frame to a MC front
end while keeping the batteries in about the same place so
that each wheel has about the same weight with driver
onboard, you can have an EV that wil hit 45-50 mph, more if
you put on an aero body with a 30-60 mile range. I did on
for under $300! Try to find a 6-1 diff instead of the 8-1
though it will still get your 40 mph needed and accelerate,
go up hills better.
A Ferro 36vd CG charger can just by replacing the
full wave rectifier with a bridge rectifier charge 72vdc. I
build these from dead GC chargers for about $25.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated or links to helpful
>sites.
Just copy the GC battery box/transaxle set up you
got the transaxle from with a floor to the MC neck, it's
just not that hard.
You can make a good, aero body from bent
wood/plywood/epoxy, lexan that finished clear or painted,
looks great and takes little time, cost. You can even build
3 or 4 for under $300 in materials so just build one and see
how it goes, then build a better one. Keep doing that until
you have what you like.
Jerry Dycus
>
>Thanks again!
>Marty
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Will you offer any coupling opions? The easy way would be to use a belt and
pulley, but I'd prefer
to find some kind of flexible coupler for more of a direct drive configuration.
If you offered one
side of a Lovejoy coupler, the user would just need to match their half to
their pump.
--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'll be offering a self-contained unit meant for EV power steering.
> Just need to update web site and settle with manufacturer. Wait
> a couple of weeks if you can, at least it will be one off-shelf choice
> to consider.
>
> Victor
>
> Dave Cover wrote:
> > Thanks for the info. I have a PM motor from a treadmill that I'd like to
> > use, but haven't had
> any
> > luck on the controller side. I'll give KB a look.
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Before spending my hard earned money and frying one of these motors, I was
wondering if anyone has any experience going beyond the specs on this motor
(72v 200 amp). From what I've read, these PM motors are quite a bit less
tolerant than the series motors. However, being used on my go kart, weight
is something I'm trying to keep in check. My goal isn't to be shifter kart
quick, but close (even if I only have enough juice for a few laps). And I'm
always open to other ideas. Thanks a bunch.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have an extension cord with a clear molded end that has a neon light
embedded in it. Very handy for being able to tell the cord is "live".
I recently bought some surplus 50amp Anderson connectors from Electronic
Goldmine. They happened to be white. I've seen the other colors, but
this was the first white one.
Well, it's translucent! The other Anderson colors are opaque, but not
the white ones. If you stick an LED into it, the body lights up in the
color of the LED (reg, green, blue, white, or whatever). I wired a
high-brightness LED and resistor in series, and slipped a piece of heat
shrink tubing over the lead with the resistor to prevent shorts. I
soldered the other lead of the LED to the high-current terminal that
goes into the connector. The other end of the resistor was soldered to
the other high-current terminal.
Now, whenever this connector is "live", the end lights up!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
> I have an extension cord with a clear molded end that has a neon light
> embedded in it. Very handy for being able to tell the cord is "live".
>
> I recently bought some surplus 50amp Anderson connectors from
> Electronic Goldmine. They happened to be white. I've seen the other
> colors, but this was the first white one.
>
> Well, it's translucent! The other Anderson colors are opaque, but not
> the white ones. If you stick an LED into it, the body lights up in the
> color of the LED (reg, green, blue, white, or whatever). I wired a
> high-brightness LED and resistor in series, and slipped a piece of
> heat shrink tubing over the lead with the resistor to prevent shorts.
> I soldered the other lead of the LED to the high-current terminal that
> goes into the connector. The other end of the resistor was soldered to
> the other high-current terminal.
>
> Now, whenever this connector is "live", the end lights up!
Lee,
Did you use a normal resistor or one rated for high voltage?
--
Martin K
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You should contact PMG and ask them. But from what i've read on forums,
probably 72v 300 - 400 amps max peak.
BTW if you search the net for pmg-132, you will find it around $700-$800,
instead of the $1000+ some are selling it at.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Blasutig" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: planning on abusing a PMG132
Hi all,
Before spending my hard earned money and frying one of these motors, I was
wondering if anyone has any experience going beyond the specs on this
motor
(72v 200 amp). From what I've read, these PM motors are quite a bit less
tolerant than the series motors. However, being used on my go kart,
weight
is something I'm trying to keep in check. My goal isn't to be shifter
kart
quick, but close (even if I only have enough juice for a few laps). And
I'm
always open to other ideas. Thanks a bunch.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Where are you located to find Citroen s so cheap??
On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 8:41 am, Eduardo Kaftanski wrote:
I am going to convert a 1970s Citroen GS. I can pick a good one with
little
rust for US$600-800 (cheap around here). Systems are dirt simple (3
fuses
in the fuse box and thats it) Plenty of space for batteries and light
enough
that a 72/96 volt system will do. I may ever go to 144 volts with
12volts
Trojans and get a quick car.
Best news is I got a very strong maybe from a local tech school to make
the
car's conversion a shop proyect for students. They may even pay for
parts!
This is getting closer. I'll go look at a possible car tomorrow.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Fri, Dec 15, 2006 at 01:10:47PM -0800, GWMobile wrote:
>
> Where are you located to find Citroen s so cheap??
>
Santiago de Chile.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EVLN(ZENN nEVs in stock for test drives & purchase)
[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
--- {EVangel}
[Editor's Notes: Since the announced URL (below) is flash, I have
created a text listing of site's dealers: ]
-[compiled from zenncars.com ]
As of 12/15/06 - text list of ZENN dealers:
MCEV Co., LLC 1200 South Dearborn St, Seattle, WA 98144
1-800-732-1108 Tel: 206-328-1750 Fax: 206-322-1435
MCEV Co. LLC, 2026 NE Columbia Blvd, Suite C, Portland, OR 97211
1-800-574-5455 Tel: 503-285-8620 Fax: 503-285-8621
Pacific Coast, 1266 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Tel: 831-423-5820
Barber Automotive Group, 3440 E. Main St., Ventura, CA, 93003
Tel: 805-642-6701
The Electric Car Company of Long Beach
2698 Junipero Ave. #106, Signal HIll, CA, 90755
Tel: 562-426-4545 1-866-969-4545
Quality Car Company Inc., 15086 Beach Blvd., Midway City, CA 92655
Tel: 714-891-6095
Eco Auto Inc., 136 West Main St., Bozeman, Montana 59715
Tel. 406.587.919
First Class Imports, 2170 30th St., Boulder CO 80301
Toll free: 888-826-5829 Tel: 303-449-9496
Perkins Motor Company, 1205 Motor City Drive, Colorado Springs,
80906
Tel: 719.475.2330
Green Wheels, P.O. Box 4748, 107 Sierra Vista Dr., Los Alamos, NM
87544
Tel: 505-672-3866
ZENN of Iowa City, 1445 Highway 1 West, Iowa City, IA 52246
Tel: 319-351-1501
North Central ZENN, 308 Union St., Ashland, OH 44805
Tel: 419-289-1226
Bleecker Automotive, 1110 East Cumberland St., Dunn, 28334
Tel: 800.542.3060
Amenia Motors, 4827 Route 22, P.O. Box 465, Amenia, New York 12501
Tel: 845-373-9000
Remsen Dodge, 3391 Highway 35, Hazlet, NJ 07730
Tel: 732.739.4010
Don Allen Auto Service, 24 Polpis Road, Nantucket, MA 02554
Tel: 508.228.0134
-
-[Source: zenncars.com ]
Subject: ZENN have arrived at all our Retailers
I am pleased to let you know that all our retailers, as listed at:
http://www.zenncars.com/availability/availability_usa.html
have ZENN in stock for both test drives and purchase
Please spread the word.
Thanks,
Ian Clifford
Chief Executive Officer
ZENN Motor Company
Office: 416-535-8395 ext 202
Toll Free: 1-877-817-7034
Fax: 416-535-4043
www.ZENNcars.com [image]
The all-new, fully electric ZENN !!
-
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:43 AM 15/12/06 -0600, Lee wrote:
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I have an 8 inch wound risistor that is 500 ohms. I need a 250 ohm resistor
of the same length. Can I insert solder between the windings to reduce the
resistance of the resistor untill I have the resistance I want? The
resistance must still change gradually up and down the length of the
resistor.
I don't think solder will stick to the nichrome element of a resistor. But
I'll bet you can rig up a temporary electroplating setup, and plate some
metal onto the nichrome to thicken it and so decrease its resistance.
Nickel and chromium come to mind (since nichrome is a nickel and chromium
alloy).
--
G'day Lee, Lawrence and all
On my forklift I needed a 180 degree (ish) 5k resistor for the potbox. So I
got a 10k wirewound and using phosphoric acid to flux the nichrome,
soldered a shorting wire from each end to a suitable spot and all the way
along the side as it went. It was a pain in the @$$ to get right (it'd jump
one winding too far or not want to stick to two or three), and that was
shorting a whole block of the wire, but on a pretty normal sized pot.
Lawrences' 8" resistor he may be able to get away with soldering one turn
to the next, but I couldn't see that being reliable. Yes I thoroughly
cleaned the pot with distilled water, solvent then re-lubricated it before
reassembly. (It has been reliable so far, using the fork at least a few
minutes pretty much every day in the four years or so since I did it).
Lawrence, some questions:
8" in a straight line (made like a tube), or round like a normal pot?
How much power is actualy dissapated? (is it big just to be big, or needs
to be big for the power it dissapates?)
Do you need to maintain its' linearity? or does it not matter if as long as
0 and 100% positions are accurate, that 50% is somewhere near but it
wouldn't matter if 25% was nearer 20% or 30% etc?
Is it connected as a potentiometer (3-wires) or a rheostat (2 wires)?
I don't suppose you could get some photos and stick them on-line somewhere
to take a look at?
If it is a potentiometer, it may be possible to add a pair of 500 ohm
resistors, one from each end to the wiper. If a rheostat, from one end to
the wiper. Depending on its' job, it may be possible to muck about with
series resistors to make it do the job.
And if it is a straight line resistor, there may be one in my power
resistor box in the junk store at work.
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Usually I sit these out but I could not resists a comment...
I read his comment about 4 ounces of water used over 100 miles like me
saying my golf cart uses one gallon of water every three months. There
is much more that is not being told.
Nate
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Myles Twete
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: any one know more about this?
> As far as I know this cutting technique is already in use. They did
> say 4 ounces of water in 100 miles. They said it could run
> exclusivelsy on HHO but the demo car was a hybrid. It seems to me
> that HHO is easier to electrolize than H & O2. They probably said
> 4ounces in 100 miles because that's all the alternator could put out
in amps to electrolize that much
> water. They call what they have an additive I can see a small
benefit.
How could there be a benefit?
I mean, if we believe the laws of physics, we know that nothing is 100%
efficient.
Loss happens.
So, given a commercial alternator is AT BEST 85% efficient (if it's a
several hundred $$$ Bosch) and given that getting hydrogen via
electrolysis is at best 50% efficient (big ass SWAG), and assuming that
burning the hydrogen with the existing fuel yields the same efficiency,
then AT BEST, you can only LOSE energy with this.
I mean, if it takes 1 gallon of fuel to go 30 miles down the road with
little alternator load, then add mechanically loading of the alternator
to generate electricity to electrolyze hydrogen and the losses from
mechanical to hydrogen fuel will be at least 57.5%.
So, if the alternator uses 10% of the available motor torque, a 30mpg
unloaded economy would drop to 27mpg + 3*0.57, or 28.7mpg.
Considering this reduced economy, plus the added weight, cost and
complexity, why bother?
The ONLY way it would make sense is if the efficiency of electrolyzing
the water was vastly more efficient AND IF the alternator were connected
as part of DYNAMIC BRAKING, retrieving up to 43% of braking energy.
Since I didn't really read the original post, maybe that was the key
here...?
-Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
And journalists who refer to historical events should have degrees in
history, and journalists who write stories about international events should
have degrees in international affairs, ......
How long does it take to learn "who, what, when, where, why?" Oh, yeah.
9th grade English class and the school newspaper.
Degrees in "journalism" are on par with degrees in "education" instead of
actually knowing something about the subject being taught. Last year, my
son was in a science fair in which the science teachers gave a 1st place
award to a student who managed to disprove Archimedes.
Sheesh
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden (Akron OH USA)
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:51 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: any one know more about this?
Old story. This one has been on the EV list before. It's bogus. "Water and
gasoline hybrid," huh? Powering the entire world? Right. ;-)
"Journalists" who report on alleged science should be required to have
degrees in at least one of the sciences.
--- End Message ---
