EV Digest 6246
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Motor Measurements
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by "Curtis Muhlestein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Manzanita micro PCF-20 charger
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: [EV] Re: How big is this motor?
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Link-10 Daughter Board
by "Brian M. Sutin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Needing Tires
by "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Manzanita micro PCF-20 charger
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Needing Tires
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: *****SPAM***** MEDIUM * Cabin Heaters
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Low Rolling Resistance tire
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: T3 Motion
by "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) motors
by dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) How much flex in battery interconnects
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: regen braking
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: motors
by lyle sloan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Needing Tires
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Low Rolling Resistance Tires - B381
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Jeff
Thanks for the clarification.
It was clear to me that the voltage drop was due to a resistance ( because
the voltage drop is proportional to resistance) but I assumed that it was a
cable loss.
In practice, it doesn't matter at all what causes the voltage drop. The
important thing ( and maybe not even that important, since the voltage drop
is relatively small) is to realize that these published motor curves are not
generated at constant voltage, but at a voltage that varies slightly with
the motor current.
If you want to generate accurate motor performance predictions based on
these curves, you obviously have to account for all the voltage drops in
your system, including batteries, cabling, terminals, and controller, so
that you base your analysis on true voltage at the battery terminals.
Phil
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Motor Measurements
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 08:38:45 -0800 (PST)
Brian and Phil,
The ".03 I" normally is a term to reflect the voltage drop due to the
internal resistance of the battery. When motor performance curves are
prepared, the terminal voltage affects the motor speed. At loads of
several hundred amps or more, battery voltage will sag significantly due to
the internal resistance of the battery. So a motor curve drawn at a
constant voltage will not reflect the motor speed correctly at heavy loads.
This also plays into the equation for stall current and torque.
V = 75v - .03 I is the voltage at the motor terminals for which that
motor performance curve was measured or calculated, so I guess it could be
considerd to include some cable resistance, but the primary component is
battery internal resistance.
The .03 used for the internal resistance of the battery should be
considered "typical". The actual internal battery resistance is probably
not linear and varies with battery size and type and, I believe, with state
of charge.
Lengthy cable resistance and other resistance or voltage drops between
the battery and motor should be considered in addition to the .03 I.
Jeff Major
Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Brian
The legend will usually read something like : "75 V - .03 I " ( That dash
is a minus sign)
This example means that 75 volts was applied to the motor through a
resistance of 0.03 ohms. The 0.03 ohms is the resistance of the cabling and
terminal resistances between the voltage source and the motor itself. So,
the actual voltage at the motor terminals will be less than 75 volts by a
voltage equal to the motor current times this external resistance.
The voltage drop in the cabling is equal to the motor current times this
resistance or Vdrop = 0,.03 ohms x motor current in amps. This is based on
" E = I x R ".
So, the acual voltage at the motor terminals is equal to the voltage source
minus the cabling/connection drop, or, 75 V - .03 x I.
( They leave out the multiplication sign - as that is understood - and
write "75V -.03I" )
Phil
>From: "Brian M. Sutin"
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: EV List
>Subject: Motor Measurements
>Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2006 20:40:53 -0800
>
>On most electric motor measurement plots, something like "0.03I"
>appears. What does that refer to?
>
>Brian
>Alfa Romeo Conversion
>http://www.skewray.com/alfa
>
>--
>Brian M. Sutin, Ph.D. Space System Engineering and Optical Design
>Skewray Research/316 W Green St/Claremont CA 91711 USA/(909) 621-3122
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael T Kadie wrote:
Anyone know where I can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port? I
have a Manzanita Micro PFC-50 charger, and am in Southern California where
there are lots of free chargers. It looks like I'm going to be needing to
go back and forth to LA in my Cobra quite a lot (I've got a lot of interview
/ publicity requests).
You really can't, or at least I don't know of anyone who has figured out
how to.
The Magnacharge system basically has half the charger onboard the
vehicle and half on the wall. Interfacing it to a PFC might be
possible, but would be tricky.
With a large number of the Magnacharge cars now off the road I think the
chargers will continue to fall into disrepair, or be replaced with
conductive systems.
Avcon inlets are somewhat available thru the EAA.
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you tried here: http://www.avconev.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Farver
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 10:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
Michael T Kadie wrote:
> Anyone know where I can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port? I
> have a Manzanita Micro PFC-50 charger, and am in Southern California where
> there are lots of free chargers. It looks like I'm going to be needing to
> go back and forth to LA in my Cobra quite a lot (I've got a lot of
interview
> / publicity requests).
>
>
You really can't, or at least I don't know of anyone who has figured out
how to.
The Magnacharge system basically has half the charger onboard the
vehicle and half on the wall. Interfacing it to a PFC might be
possible, but would be tricky.
With a large number of the Magnacharge cars now off the road I think the
chargers will continue to fall into disrepair, or be replaced with
conductive systems.
Avcon inlets are somewhat available thru the EAA.
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea I have just the port...
And it won't do you much good at all.
The Magnachargers use very high freq and super water cooled padles to move
up to 25 Kw at 380Khz through the port. The controls and feedbacks are
rather advanced.
The recepticle is not much more that the outside magnetics of a HF
transformer and the rectifier diodes that convert it back to DC to the EV
side battery control system.
These have twin 60 mm Fans just to cool themselves and one of them is rated
to 10,600 rpm.
This this must have blown off a few Kw of waste heat at full power!!.
The PFC50 you have won't make that much waste heat.. EVER!
You need to find 14-50 outlets that are conductive or wire into a AVcon
port and turn down the amps to about 30 grid amps.
That will work.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael T Kadie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 8:37 AM
Subject: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
> Anyone know where I can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port? I
> have a Manzanita Micro PFC-50 charger, and am in Southern California where
> there are lots of free chargers. It looks like I'm going to be needing to
> go back and forth to LA in my Cobra quite a lot (I've got a lot of
interview
> / publicity requests).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael Kadie
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] / [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://ssi-racing.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think the list pretty much has answered your questions.
But You should know that We here at Manzanita Micro are on this list and you
can always ask us directly.
Most of my distributors are on here also.. and about 300 of my customers....
So.. feel free to ask..
Yes you can turn down a PFC charger. It's one of the main features, A large
AMPS knob that allows you to set the ouput current from full power to Zero
power and anywhere in between.
The Peak voltage .. or the maximum voltage the charger will allow, is set by
the Volts Trim setscrew. It's intentionally harder to get to, Because you
don't want to bump this setting by mistake or have it adjusted by mistake.
This can be set from 12 to 450 volts...and anywheres in between.
When you are in voltage control mode.. IE you batteries are fully charged,
The current is automatically tapered back to hold the voltage at the
setpoint. So you can set a 2 amp current and restrict it to not more than
say 191 volts.. This is a perfect end of charge point for 13 Optima Yts.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: Manzanita micro PCF-20 charger
> Hi everyone
>
> I was reading about the manzanita micro charger on a web page and it said
> that you could turn the current down on it for lower capacity batteries. I
> was wondering if i could turn it down far enough so that i could use it as
a
> trickle charger to top off my batteries, does anyone think that would
work.
> Also how does the charger know what voltage of a pack i am chargeing.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Off to school, going on a trip, or moving? Windows Live (MSN) Messenger
lets
> you stay in touch with friends and family wherever you go. Click here to
> find out how to sign up! http://www.telusmobility.com/msnxbox/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eduardo,
I suspect you would have to put a lot of effort and expense into this motor
only to be disappointed in the acceleration and top speed in the vehicle you
describe. Of course, a lot depends on the particulars of the system you
design. I'd look for something larger and easier to couple up.
Jeff
Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On Sun, Dec 24, 2006 at 01:05:14PM -0800, Jeff Major wrote:
> Hello Eduardo,
>
> The motor P/N is MSS-4002, which was a Prestolite number for a 6.6 inch
> diameter traction motor for daul drive fork lift. Brushes would have been set
> to neutral, so higher voltage may require advance. Also, it is series wound,
> over speed at low loads is concern. Also, spline shaft hard to adapt and I
> think this design has a drive end bearing lubed from mating gearbox, so you
> might have to replce it with a sealed bearing. Small car?????? How small? How
> fast? This motor would similar to a golfcart motor, a little beefier and
> ventilated.
>
Thanks Jeff,
I am planning on converting a 1979 Citroen GS. Empty weight would be
around 1000 kilograms. Stock motor is 1.1 liter 65hp. I dont need highway
speeds. 50mph would be plenty.
Current plan is to do a low speed/low cost conversion to learn
how its done, then convert a much larger car (a 1994 Citroen Xantia
y currently drive that will need a new engine in a couple of years).
Assuming that motor can be fixed to work in a converted car, could
I drive it with a 72volt Altrax controller and drive it around town?
--
Eduardo K. | Darwin pone las reglas.
http://www.carfun.cl | Murphy, la oportunidad.
http://e.nn.cl |
| Yo.
---------------------------------
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a brand new one in the box.
Don
In a message dated 12/26/2006 9:58:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Have you tried here: http://www.avconev.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Farver
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 10:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
Michael T Kadie wrote:
> Anyone know where I can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port? I
> have a Manzanita Micro PFC-50 charger, and am in Southern California where
> there are lots of free chargers. It looks like I'm going to be needing to
> go back and forth to LA in my Cobra quite a lot (I've got a lot of
interview
> / publicity requests).
>
>
You really can't, or at least I don't know of anyone who has figured out
how to.
The Magnacharge system basically has half the charger onboard the
vehicle and half on the wall. Interfacing it to a PFC might be
possible, but would be tricky.
With a large number of the Magnacharge cars now off the road I think the
chargers will continue to fall into disrepair, or be replaced with
conductive systems.
Avcon inlets are somewhat available thru the EAA.
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You have no idea how depressing it is to here this good news, Lee.
I just ordered a Link-10 as well as a prescaler and a DC-DC converter.
When you start taking orders, sign me up for two, please.
What was wrong with the Pico 12B12S DC-DC converter? It has 5000V
isolation, which should be plenty. Too expensive?
Brian
Alfa Romeo Electric Conversion
http://www.skewray.com/alfa
> You may get your wish for Christmas. I designed just such a board, which
> I call the E-Meter Companion. I ordered the first batch about 2 weeks
> ago. They are due in any time! Features:
>
> - A 2" diameter round board that mounts on the back of the
> E-meter/Link-10 using the 8 pin terminal block and 9-pin
> serial interface connector. (If you don't have the serial
> connector, add one -- the pads are already there).
>
> - DC/DC converter to power the E-meter: Gets power from your
> vehicle's 12vdc grounded system, and provides isolated 12v
> power to run the E-meter.
>
> - Prescaler: On-board 100v and 500v prescalers, jumper selectable.
>
> - Serial port isolator: Provides an optically isolated RS-232
> output of the E-meter's serial data (if your meter has this
> option).
>
> - Simplified wiring: All connections are made to the Companion
> board (none to the E-meter itself). The Companion has a wire
> lead for the positive pack high voltage, a 3-wire connector
> to the shunt, and an optional 4-wire connector with the
> E-meter's isolated +12v power, Common, Temperature sensor,
> and Alarm outputs.
>
> The biggest fight was the blasted DC/DC converter. I've had a devil of a
> time getting high enough isolation to survive people's bad-boy and
> non-isolated chargers. I wound up designing my own. We'll see how well I
> did when the boards get tested!
>
> I didn't want to announce it until I'm ready to ship, as I'm so far
> behind on things. But this one is getting close!
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--
Brian M. Sutin, Ph.D. Space System Engineering and Optical Design
Skewray Research/316 W Green St/Claremont CA 91711 USA/(909) 621-3122
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What tire did you use? I am looking for exact brand as well as size. Did
you stay with the Dunlop tires? As soon as the weather clears around here I
am going to try to get my truck weighted but I do not know of any place that
I can get just the front or just the rear weighted separately. I do know of
a grain scale company a short distance from my house that will weigh the
whole truck but I am going to have to check to see if I can find someone to
weigh just the front and then just the rear.
Thanks, Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wiench [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Needing Tires
Hello Fred,
The 225/75/15R are the same type I have on my El Camino. You first must
find out what the vehicle weight is on each wheel.
The next step is to check the maximum load rating on the side of the tire or
in the dealers spec sheet. It may read something like this: Maximum Load
Rating 1500 lbs @ 35 PSI.
If your weight is 1500 lbs or less than you can air the tires to a maximum
of 35 PSI for the lease amount of tire deflection of the face of the thread
face.
The problem with my EV, the weights on the rear is over 2300 lbs per wheel,
so there was no LRR in the 15 inch size over 2300 lbs rating. Most of the
tire manufactures reduce the load rating for the 15 inch tires and assign
that value for 18 inches and above.
There was only two tire companies, Goodyear and Pirelli that still made a 15
inch tire with a load rating over 2300 lbs. So that was my only choice.
These tires are built different then the Dunlops that were 8 ply and had a
load rating of 2600 lbs at 65 PSI which I ran for 21 years and still had
0.25 thread on it. They had a very stiff side wall to reduce the
deflection.
The new tires, have a soft 2 ply wall with a stiff 6 ply thread area. The
thread stays more rounded while the side wall gives you a softer ride.
I would like to have the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus LRR tires, but there load
rating was not high enough for me in the 15 inch size. Might work for your
rig.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 4:14 PM
Subject: Needing Tires
> Well, Santa was good to be. My wife just gave me the go ahead to get my
> much needed tires for my Dodge Dakota EV. While I have been reading up on
> the list about LRR tires, I would like to know what other EV'ers are using
> and with what success. I don't have enough money to make mistakes so I
> would like to get a good set. I believe my factory tire size is
> 225/75/15.
> Please let me know what tires you are using and if they help to get you
> better range. I am more concerned about getting as much range as
> possible.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Fred
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce,
>From reading your reply I see that you have an 132v pack and get 42 miles, is
>that correct? Could you elaborate on your EV, controller, balancer? How old
>are the bats?
I looked for you in the evalbum, but couldn't find any info.
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
Bruce wrote -
> Before I do my monthly watering of my 132VDC US125 wet-cell pack,
>. This has held true to my range ability of 42
> miles at a constant 55 mph highway speed draws 80 ahrs.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Fred,
At the automatic truck weigh stations, you just follow the instructions on
the sign. You normally drive the front wheels on and than a indicator light
will come on and then it will tell you to proceed forward to weigh the next
axles. Truck with trailers has to weigh each axle.
Then you drive off the scale, insert your credit card in a machine, and it
will give you a weigh slip showing all the different weights.
I have also went to a grain elevator that has a scale. Just tell the
operator what you want to do, and you just weigh each axle.
Dunlap does not make a 15 inch tire with the load rating of 2350 lbs. They
change that load rating for a 18 inch tire. The only two companies that
have that load rating for a 15 inch is Goodyear and Pirelli.
I am running Pirelli ATR all weather tire design for a SUB or heavy pickups.
See what the weight is per wheel, and if it will match the Michelin Energy
MXVH Plus tire, that the one I would get. Its has a 2 ply wall like my
Pirelli and has a stiff thread section that keeps it more rounded.
The soft side walls do not effect the thread face as it did with the older
tires. This gives you a softer ride then a hard 4 ply side wall like my old
Dunlaps did.
The face of these LRR tires do not deflect as much, but the side walls do
which does not increase the resistance.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: Needing Tires
> What tire did you use? I am looking for exact brand as well as size. Did
> you stay with the Dunlop tires? As soon as the weather clears around here
> I
> am going to try to get my truck weighted but I do not know of any place
> that
> I can get just the front or just the rear weighted separately. I do know
> of
> a grain scale company a short distance from my house that will weigh the
> whole truck but I am going to have to check to see if I can find someone
> to
> weigh just the front and then just the rear.
>
> Thanks, Fred
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roland Wiench [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:45 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Needing Tires
>
> Hello Fred,
>
> The 225/75/15R are the same type I have on my El Camino. You first must
> find out what the vehicle weight is on each wheel.
>
> The next step is to check the maximum load rating on the side of the tire
> or
>
> in the dealers spec sheet. It may read something like this: Maximum Load
> Rating 1500 lbs @ 35 PSI.
>
> If your weight is 1500 lbs or less than you can air the tires to a maximum
> of 35 PSI for the lease amount of tire deflection of the face of the
> thread
> face.
>
> The problem with my EV, the weights on the rear is over 2300 lbs per
> wheel,
> so there was no LRR in the 15 inch size over 2300 lbs rating. Most of the
> tire manufactures reduce the load rating for the 15 inch tires and assign
> that value for 18 inches and above.
>
> There was only two tire companies, Goodyear and Pirelli that still made a
> 15
>
> inch tire with a load rating over 2300 lbs. So that was my only choice.
>
> These tires are built different then the Dunlops that were 8 ply and had a
> load rating of 2600 lbs at 65 PSI which I ran for 21 years and still had
> 0.25 thread on it. They had a very stiff side wall to reduce the
> deflection.
>
> The new tires, have a soft 2 ply wall with a stiff 6 ply thread area. The
> thread stays more rounded while the side wall gives you a softer ride.
>
> I would like to have the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus LRR tires, but there
> load
>
> rating was not high enough for me in the 15 inch size. Might work for
> your
> rig.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 4:14 PM
> Subject: Needing Tires
>
>
> > Well, Santa was good to be. My wife just gave me the go ahead to get my
> > much needed tires for my Dodge Dakota EV. While I have been reading up
> > on
> > the list about LRR tires, I would like to know what other EV'ers are
> > using
> > and with what success. I don't have enough money to make mistakes so I
> > would like to get a good set. I believe my factory tire size is
> > 225/75/15.
> > Please let me know what tires you are using and if they help to get you
> > better range. I am more concerned about getting as much range as
> > possible.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Fred
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back in 1998, the Swiss "Twike" hp/electric hybrid used Braun hotcombs as
combination canopy defroster and heater. They worked great on the cold rainy
days at that Alemeda gathering. David Chapman.
Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
>
> >~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>~>
> I was looking around for something to discharge my battery pack with, and
> recalled reading that series motors are also sometimes called universal
> motors,
> and can be powered by either AC or DC.
>
> They also happen to be used in lots of power tools, so just out of interest
>
> I connected my Bosch drill to the 72V pack...it ran, as did my sander.
> Interestingly so did my heatgun, used for paintstripping and so on.
>
> For you guys in the US, one benefit of having 110V mains is that you can
> get appliances which are designed to run on low voltages, and I wonder if
> you
> couldn't get a 110V heatgun to run really well as a cabin heater too. Or
> what
> about one of those small mains space heaters.
>
> Of course, if you all already know about this excuse me for having my fun,
> It's not new to me either but it's novel and it's fun !
>
> Happy holidays to you all
>
> Chris
>
-------------------------------------------------
FastQ Communications
Providing Innovative Internet Solutions Since 1993
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, it's not that easy. The inductive charging protocal is a wierd high
frequency transfer (otherwise the paddle would have been huge and heavy), the
on board car charger bits talk to the off board charger via rf communications
and I think on the "standardized" small port standard that is more common in
California it uses ir. Basically it's probably not worth it, nor would it work
unless you could get the whole Magnecharger onboard part of the charger which
as far as I know isn't available.
There are a lot of large paddle sites here in Phoenix that are pretty much
abandonded, but a lot of them also have Avcon heads there too. This is what you
should look in to since the Avcon is just a really elaborate 240vac connector.
You can get an adapter box from the EAA or call and order a connector direct
from Avcon (www.avconev.com). There are two different ones, the "Honda" one
which doesn't have the pilot emulator built in and the "Ford" one which has a
longer cable and has the pilot emulator built in (~$140 when I ordered mine).
This is the one you want, all you have is three wires comming out if it... hot,
hot and ground so it's very simple. I did a make your own adapter using their
inlet and it poweres my PFC-30 very happily. You will need to turn your PFC-50
down though, Avcon is only supposed to supply 32 amps max, and the boxes can be
picky so the first few times you use them hang around for a few minutes to make
sure it doesn't yell at you (the boxes there
supposedly talk, the ones here don't).
Check out www.evchargernews.com to look for charging sites near where you are
going and look for Avcon's. A lot of the sites also will have regular old 5-20
120vac outlets as well, but those do take a while.
Rick
92 Saturn SC conversion
Anyone know where I can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
I
have a Manzanita Micro PFC-50 charger, and am in Southern California
where
there are lots of free chargers. It looks like I'm going to be needing
to
go back and forth to LA in my Cobra quite a lot (I've got a lot of
interview
/ publicity requests).
Thanks,
Michael Kadie
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ssi-racing.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Just to add something here, the Saturn Vue Green Line is listed as having low
rolling resistance tires on the Saturn web site, though no specifics are
mentioned other than they're a 215/70R 16. So if this size happens to be good
for anoyone out there, probably with a truck conversion, it's probably worth
going to a Saturn dealership, act interested and write down what kind of tire
they have on them.
Rick
92 Saturn SC conversion
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--- Begin Message ---
Yes. I saw two in the Atlanta airport (ATL) two or three years ago.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: T3 Motion
http://www.t3motion.com/
"T3 Motion is the leader in the security electric vehicles market and
manufacturer of the electric vehicles."
I can't understand why the Law buys into these hugely expensive
personal electric vehicles (see also "segway")...
Is there *any* advantage to three wheels versus two when the vehicles
are this small?
Sure, they are self stabile. I.e. they don't need a kick stand or help
from the rider to keep them upright when stopped.
P.s. Just because they say they are the leader, doesn't make it so.
Has anyone actually SEEN a cop riding one of these? Even a rent-a-cop?
-
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.1/207 - Release Date: 12/19/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
looking for a good motor: brushless/PM 10-12 HP
i would like something a little more powerful than the etek or pmg132, but
not sure about the lemco200
thanks
check out my blog:
http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I am
making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch thick
by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have made an
interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex for short
connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better (and it is
much easier to get the proper fit.)
I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock meaning
I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have at least 2
right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing the situation,
but I thaught it was worth asking.
for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit thinner,
or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it in 1/16 if
an inch (.0625).
For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As the vehicle flexes, the batteries will move relative to one
another. If you rigidly connect the posts with short bars, you will
have problems. The connections will loosen up. The posts will break
their seals.
These days, I put several layers of 3/4" copper braid inside
a short piece of copper pipe. I flatten the pipe with a hammer, then
punch a hole in it for the battery stud. Same thing on the other end.
Works flawlessly.
Bill Dube'
At 09:28 PM 12/26/2006, you wrote:
I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I
am making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch
thick by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have
made an interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex
for short connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better
(and it is much easier to get the proper fit.)
I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock
meaning I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have
at least 2 right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing
the situation, but I thaught it was worth asking.
for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit
thinner, or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it
in 1/16 if an inch (.0625).
For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How much flex?
IMHO, you need some.
Am assuming you are using the 2/0 to make a straight-line interconnect.
After fabricating many hundreds of cables for EV applications...
I _always_ make an arc or small loop with the cable no matter how short the
run.
(this can also prevent alot of expensive waste when swapping out with a
different battery type)
Everything in a vehicle moves or flexes, this should be allowed for.
Yes, many will claim success with a hard, inflexible connection.
(many racers use solid interconnects with success, these interconnects are
always removed and replaced alot)
In a daily driver street conversion it is a different story.
I have seen enough failures due to vibration not to do it that way. The
failures I have seen include breaking the battery post completely free from
the rest of the battery.
Opinions will vary.
I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I am
making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch thick
by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have made an
interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex for short
connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better (and it is
much easier to get the proper fit.)
I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock meaning
I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have at least 2
right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing the situation,
but I thaught it was worth asking.
for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit thinner,
or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it in 1/16 if
an inch (.0625).
For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
...
Roy LeMeur
NEDRA NW Regional Director
www.nedra.com
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
_________________________________________________________________
Type your favorite song. Get a customized station. Try MSN Radio powered
by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
5 to 10% may be about right for the average. It also depends a lot on how
well you can moderate the regen. I am in a very hilly area with many stops and
with a Solectria Force was able to recover 30%. The regen on the Force would
bring the vehicle to a stop even on very steep hills. I found the longer you
could extend the time the more that was recovered by the pack. With ICE
drivers behind you unless your regen is very aggressive you will have to use
your
brakes.
I currently have a factory Ranger and S-10. They both have regen and more
energy to recover than the Force. The regen is not programed to take full
advantage of all the available energy.
Don
In a message dated 12/14/2006 8:23:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> the only thing i've seen is the following, and the folks selling it said
> you would only get about 3% back from it?
>
Sounds about right, depending on your local terain and driving conditions,
Somewhere between zero and 5-10%.
FWIW if you are planning on using a series wound motor, regen is probably
not worth the money.
If you are willing to spend the extra money, AC or Brushless DC is a
better option for regen. Of course this assumes you have a driving
pattern that can benifit from regen (frequent stops or hills)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just saw your blog. Good Job!!
Since you already have a Pmg-130, you could add
another to the jackshaft to add more power if you got
the room.
Or look into an AC motor setup. I know
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ and
http://www.electricmotorsport.com offer AC setups.
And I am pretty sure the other Ev parts sellers do
too.
I know the advantages of brushless, but I would
recommend staying away from brushless at this time
until it becomes more available.
Make sure you add your cycle to the
http://www.evalbum.com and poke your head in at
http://www.electricmotorcycles.net
Lyle
--- dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> looking for a good motor: brushless/PM 10-12 HP
>
> i would like something a little more powerful than
> the etek or pmg132, but not sure about the lemco200
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>
> check out my blog:
>
> http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
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http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My local recycling center has scales to weigh incoming and
outgoing vehicles.
If you need a slip, you need to pay, but they do not mind
if you drive your vehicle onto the scale and note down the
indication on the outside display yourself.
Weighing the front or rear is no more difficult then
driving the vehicle a few feet backward or forward so only
one axle is on the scale and the other on the road.
If you grain weighing station wants to weigh your total
vehicle, then tell them you want to know each axle so
if they want to let you weigh at least one axle separately
(the other is the difference between total and the first
axle)
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Fred Hartsell
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 2:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Needing Tires
What tire did you use? I am looking for exact brand as well as size. Did
you stay with the Dunlop tires? As soon as the weather clears around here I
am going to try to get my truck weighted but I do not know of any place that
I can get just the front or just the rear weighted separately. I do know of
a grain scale company a short distance from my house that will weigh the
whole truck but I am going to have to check to see if I can find someone to
weigh just the front and then just the rear.
Thanks, Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wiench [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Needing Tires
Hello Fred,
The 225/75/15R are the same type I have on my El Camino. You first must
find out what the vehicle weight is on each wheel.
The next step is to check the maximum load rating on the side of the tire or
in the dealers spec sheet. It may read something like this: Maximum Load
Rating 1500 lbs @ 35 PSI.
If your weight is 1500 lbs or less than you can air the tires to a maximum
of 35 PSI for the lease amount of tire deflection of the face of the thread
face.
The problem with my EV, the weights on the rear is over 2300 lbs per wheel,
so there was no LRR in the 15 inch size over 2300 lbs rating. Most of the
tire manufactures reduce the load rating for the 15 inch tires and assign
that value for 18 inches and above.
There was only two tire companies, Goodyear and Pirelli that still made a 15
inch tire with a load rating over 2300 lbs. So that was my only choice.
These tires are built different then the Dunlops that were 8 ply and had a
load rating of 2600 lbs at 65 PSI which I ran for 21 years and still had
0.25 thread on it. They had a very stiff side wall to reduce the
deflection.
The new tires, have a soft 2 ply wall with a stiff 6 ply thread area. The
thread stays more rounded while the side wall gives you a softer ride.
I would like to have the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus LRR tires, but there load
rating was not high enough for me in the 15 inch size. Might work for your
rig.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 4:14 PM
Subject: Needing Tires
> Well, Santa was good to be. My wife just gave me the go ahead to get my
> much needed tires for my Dodge Dakota EV. While I have been reading up on
> the list about LRR tires, I would like to know what other EV'ers are using
> and with what success. I don't have enough money to make mistakes so I
> would like to get a good set. I believe my factory tire size is
> 225/75/15.
> Please let me know what tires you are using and if they help to get you
> better range. I am more concerned about getting as much range as
> possible.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Fred
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Phil,
How do you like the tire?
(Are you already on the road with it?)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Phil Marino
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 5:18 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires - B381
>From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: "Brian M. Sutin" <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires
>Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 07:33:40 -0000
>
>As long as you have a 14" wheel you are fine. Mine are 15". Many are
>16 and larger now. Even the guy in our group that has B281's had a
>very hard time getting them. OEM tires are not always available in the
>aftermarket!
>
>
>
If you mean the Bridgestones B381's ( the lowest tested RR value in the
Greenseal testing) I bought some a couple of months ago from TireRack. I
just ordered them, and they came. There are only a couple of sizes
available, though. ( at least from TireRack)
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
>From photos to predictions, The MSN Entertainment Guide to Golden Globes
has
it all. http://tv.msn.com/tv/globes2007/
--- End Message ---
