EV Digest 6248
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: How much flex in battery interconnects
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) SEVA President to give EV Interview on Progressive AM 1090 Seattle
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Joe Sixpack Metro: maximum safe motor RPM?
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Joe Sixpack Metro: maximum safe motor RPM?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Low Rolling Resistance Tires - B381
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: gizmag Article: The Moovie: they built it
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Need help to ID GE controller ...
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: OT: Bio-Gas generator
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Joe Sixpack Metro: maximum safe motor RPM?
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Low Rolling Resistance Tires
by "Randy Burleson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Not me!! Re: Nicad resetting vs NiMH
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Need help to ID GE controller ...
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: gizmag Article: The Moovie: they built it .. merc's F-300 Life Jet
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: motors
by dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Zener regs revisited
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Where can get a large paddle inductive receptacle port?
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Zener regs revisited
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Rudman regs & a Soniel charger.
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) EVLN(Crocketts' 94 Saturn sta. wagon hums as it runs)-long
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I used braid, too, but I didn't encase the ends in copper pipe - I just punched
a hole through the braid and put a big washer over it to smash it down on the
terminal and make a good contact. With flat terminals I was able to put a
couple of layers of braid on both sides for a large contact area. I liked the
idea of fewer connections between separate parts, each of which constitutes a
potential failure site.
Bill - do you know how many amps each strand of braid can handle? I'm trying
to figure this out for my current project and I can't seem to find good data.
I used six layers per connection for my last project and it seemed like
overkill - they never even got slightly warm, even under some pretty heavy amp
draws.
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: As the vehicle flexes, the
batteries will move relative to one
another. If you rigidly connect the posts with short bars, you will
have problems. The connections will loosen up. The posts will break
their seals.
These days, I put several layers of 3/4" copper braid inside
a short piece of copper pipe. I flatten the pipe with a hammer, then
punch a hole in it for the battery stud. Same thing on the other end.
Works flawlessly.
Bill Dube'
At 09:28 PM 12/26/2006, you wrote:
>I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I
>am making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch
>thick by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have
>made an interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex
>for short connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better
>(and it is much easier to get the proper fit.)
>
>I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock
>meaning I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have
>at least 2 right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing
>the situation, but I thaught it was worth asking.
>
>for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit
>thinner, or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it
>in 1/16 if an inch (.0625).
>
>For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
>Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
>
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--- Begin Message ---
At 08:28 PM 12/26/2006, you wrote:
I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I
am making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch
thick by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have
made an interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex
for short connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better
(and it is much easier to get the proper fit.)
I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock
meaning I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have
at least 2 right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing
the situation, but I thaught it was worth asking.
for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit
thinner, or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it
in 1/16 if an inch (.0625).
We've been using 1/16" copper strap in our kits for 15 years. All of
the straps DO have at least two 90 degree bends in them. We have
NEVER had a report of a problem from these connections. We never saw
any evidence of trouble from our own vehicle, despite driving
regularly on curvy, poorly maintained mountain roads.
I would not recommend using heavier copper, or straight bars.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is how I see it... keep in mind I'm not an expert.
The braid is simply finely stranded wire without the insulation molded to it.
Similar cross section sizes should give similar electrical results. I.E. 00
worth of braid should be the same performance as 00 wire. Along the same line
of thought; if you have 00 wire why couldn't you make interconnects from it and
simply slice the insulation along its length to give it more flexibility?? Or
whatever gauge of wire you happen to be using....
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Steve Condie
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 2:02 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: How much flex in battery interconnects
>
> I used braid, too, but I didn't encase the ends in copper pipe - I just
> punched a hole through the braid and put a big washer over it to smash it
> down on the terminal and make a good contact. With flat terminals I was
> able to put a couple of layers of braid on both sides for a large contact
> area. I liked the idea of fewer connections between separate parts, each
> of
> which constitutes a potential failure site.
>
> Bill - do you know how many amps each strand of braid can handle? I'm
> trying to figure this out for my current project and I can't seem to find
> good data. I used six layers per connection for my last project and it
> seemed like overkill - they never even got slightly warm, even under some
> pretty heavy amp draws.
>
> "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: As the vehicle
> flexes, the batteries will move relative to one another. If you rigidly
> connect the posts with short bars, you will have problems. The connections
> will loosen up. The posts will break their seals.
>
> These days, I put several layers of 3/4" copper braid inside a
> short piece of copper pipe. I flatten the pipe with a hammer, then punch a
> hole in it for the battery stud. Same thing on the other end.
> Works flawlessly.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
> At 09:28 PM 12/26/2006, you wrote:
>>I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I am
>>making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch thick
>>by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have made an
>>interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex for short
>>connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better (and it is
>>much easier to get the proper fit.)
>>
>>I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock meaning
>>I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have at least 2
>>right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing the situation,
>>but I thaught it was worth asking.
>>
>>for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit thinner,
>>or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it in 1/16 if
>>an inch (.0625).
>>
>>For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
>>Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
( Please excuse if this is a Douplication... My e-mail program "burped")
Trying to get a definitive answer from Ms. Tami Kosch on Seattles
Progressive AM1090
OK GOT IT!! Just got off the PHONE...
The interviews are TAPED/ Recorded, for a future air-ing
So after the interview tomorrow morning at 10 am I will let every one
know when they will be brodcasted...
Theri web site is :http://www.am1090seattle.com/
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Braid can handle a higher maximum current because the strands are air
cooled. Most of us wouldn't want to put so much current through it that
it heats up, but the point remains the same.
--
Martin K
Tim Humphrey wrote:
This is how I see it... keep in mind I'm not an expert.
The braid is simply finely stranded wire without the insulation molded to it.
Similar cross section sizes should give similar electrical results. I.E. 00
worth of braid should be the same performance as 00 wire. Along the same line
of thought; if you have 00 wire why couldn't you make interconnects from it and
simply slice the insulation along its length to give it more flexibility?? Or
whatever gauge of wire you happen to be using....
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another noob question: can anyone suggest a safe maximum RPM for a
25-ish year-old Otis 8 inch forklift pump motor? Its tag has no RPM
info anywhere on it.
Found a couple of references in the archives suggesting that a 9 inch
ADC motor has a safe max speed of around 5,000 RPM...
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/message/32865
...and the sad story of Jude Anthony's motor that met its fate at 6,000
RPM....
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/message/71378
So is 5,000 RPM in the ball park for old Otis?
I remember a VW Rabbit gasser of mine (which had no tach) had orange
tick marks on the speedometer showing max safe speed in 1st and 2nd
gears. I'd like to stick something similar on the Metro LSV's dash.
Any info would be welcome.
cheers
Darin Cosgrove
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Darin
The fact that this is an older motor with (from what I
could see) an almost uncut comm is a plus actually.
That Otis motor has a tad smaller comm dia. than an
ADC8 and should be safe to 6000 rpms (at least in
short durations.)
As to your earlier post it's so nice to hear stuff has
worked out for you. I tell people all the time that
it's not about making people EV'ers it's about helping
people become happy EV'ers that it's all about.
It's also very fun for me to see these old motors
getting a new lease on life 8^ )
Sounds as if you're getting there, best of luck, glad
I could help.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Another noob question: can anyone suggest a safe
> maximum RPM for a
> 25-ish year-old Otis 8 inch forklift pump motor?
> Its tag has no RPM
> info anywhere on it.
>
> Found a couple of references in the archives
> suggesting that a 9 inch
> ADC motor has a safe max speed of around 5,000
> RPM...
>
>
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/message/32865
>
> ...and the sad story of Jude Anthony's motor that
> met its fate at 6,000
> RPM....
>
>
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/message/71378
>
> So is 5,000 RPM in the ball park for old Otis?
>
> I remember a VW Rabbit gasser of mine (which had no
> tach) had orange
> tick marks on the speedometer showing max safe speed
> in 1st and 2nd
> gears. I'd like to stick something similar on the
> Metro LSV's dash.
>
> Any info would be welcome.
>
> cheers
>
> Darin Cosgrove
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Andrew,
How is the wear pattern?
(inside, outside, middle of thread)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew Letton
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:40 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires - B381
The B381s are on my wife's 2003 Civic Hybrid. We bought the car used,
but I believe that they are the OEM tire. Our Civic has ~57k miles on it
now, and the tires are still going strong. I generally keep them
inflated to about 44psi (sidewall max rating). No complaints here.
cheers,
Andrew
Cor van de Water wrote:
> Hi Phil,
>
> How do you like the tire?
> (Are you already on the road with it?)
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Phil Marino
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 5:18 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires - B381
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Reply-To: [email protected]
>> To: "Brian M. Sutin" <[email protected]>
>> Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires
>> Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 07:33:40 -0000
>>
>> As long as you have a 14" wheel you are fine. Mine are 15". Many are
>> 16 and larger now. Even the guy in our group that has B281's had a
>> very hard time getting them. OEM tires are not always available in the
>> aftermarket!
>>
>>
>>
>>
> If you mean the Bridgestones B381's ( the lowest tested RR value in the
> Greenseal testing) I bought some a couple of months ago from TireRack. I
> just ordered them, and they came. There are only a couple of sizes
> available, though. ( at least from TireRack)
>
> Phil
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> >From photos to predictions, The MSN Entertainment Guide to Golden Globes
> has
> it all. http://tv.msn.com/tv/globes2007/
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The car looks absolutely stunning, but like most things
that focus on the looks - it is impossible to use.
>From what I see the _entire_ car is unsprung.
How would it go over a speed bump or even a small threshold
when it has virtually no ground clearance and the only
flex is in about 1" tire height?
I think it does the same as a road bicycle in a pothole:
break its rim.
Even if this vehicle was allowed on the road, I would not
want to ride it anywhere at a speed over 5 MPH, as its
suspension is as good as a shopping cart.
As soon as all wheels (including the spheres) are allowed
to travel about 8 inches, or at least 4" with ultra stiff
suspension, then you may have a freeway-going vehicle.
If not, it stays a glorified 4-wheel bicycle.
BTW - bicycles have very low rolling resistance, else a
human cold not move it forward at any useful speed,
because we produce about 0.1 hp when pedaling, the
power consumption of a human-powered bike is about 7Wh/mi
while an eBike may use up to 20Wh/mi due to higher speed.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of GWMobile
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 10:54 PM
To: Ev List
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: gizmag Article: The Moovie: they built it
Speaking of low rolling resistance tires look at the Moovie electric
concept car built by peugout (sp).
Those big circles surrounding the doors are the hubless drive wheels you
step through to get in and out. Look closely. That door trim IS THE
WHEEL.
Low mass.
Large diameter for smoother bump transitions and low rolling
resistance.
A bunch of the cars on this page are electric.
http://www.gizmag.com/go/4506/
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A list member asked me for some help identifying two controllers that he said
are GE EV-1's.
The first one was no issue. It is definately out of a Jet Industries, and is
an EV-1C. It is still in the big metal box fully assembled with contactors and
all. I can't mistake that thing. I told him it is worth about $250 if it
works. I feel that is fair for one of these that can run 144 V / 300 A. I've
heard both 300 A and 400 A. Maybe 400 A? It isn't a whole lot of power, but
it works OK for a low budget.
The other one, I have no idea. It looks GE. It looks like it has 4 large
caps in parallel. That would make it like an EV-1D, but it isn't anything like
any picture I have of an EV-1D. It might be an EV-100, but it seems too big
for that. Maybe it is an EV-200? Maybe it is an EV-2000 ... I believe there
actually was such a thing, but that is an AC motor controller. This thing
looks like a basic SCR, but also looks very heavy duty. It doesn't have the
standard EV-1 card. It has somethig else and turned sideways. Are there any
GE experts out there how can say for sure what this thing is and put a value on
it? He said it was laveled 156 V ... Could potentially be a good controller,
or could be a big paper weight ...
If so, reply to me and I'll forward you the picture.
Thanks,
Steve
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Hell yeah. Look up Capstone Microturbines. They have high electrical
efficiency though not earth-shattering. For cogeneration (making hot
water in addition to electricity) it's very efficient. It is remarkably
small and quiet for a large generator. It's supposed to be extremely
versatile and well-specified for running on different types of fuels
such as bio-gas. In fact how it operates on methane "biogas" is already
well documented.
Danny
Michaela Merz wrote:
We are running an agricultural business with enough waste products
available to power a small scale bio-gas system (www.littleriverranch.com)
I think it would be great to convert all that manure etc. to charge my EV
and maybe even produce some more power for the home.
I am looking for some insights on how to run an ICE on bio-gas (mostly
methane). I have googled for days, but it seems to be impossible to get an
appropriate genset in the 5 KW range.
If its too far off topic, I apologize.
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jim -
Thanks for that info.
I tell you: I'm glad for the Internet when it comes to this project. I
probably wouldn't have dived in without the inspiration, ideas & solid
info that comes from this list and the multitude of owners' conversion
web sites.
It's also very fun for me to see these old motors
getting a new lease on life 8^ )
Glad you're getting a kick out of it too!
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I used 3 layers for my flooded NiCads (500 amps max, 200 amps
continuous.) They never seem to get warm.
The short sections of copper pipe on either end are very easy to do
and make a much more reliable connection.
I've run 1200 amps though three layers on the drag strip with zero
problems. Of course, that is just for a few seconds.
Bill Dube'
At 12:01 PM 12/27/2006, you wrote:
I used braid, too, but I didn't encase the ends in copper pipe - I
just punched a hole through the braid and put a big washer over it
to smash it down on the terminal and make a good contact. With flat
terminals I was able to put a couple of layers of braid on both
sides for a large contact area. I liked the idea of fewer
connections between separate parts, each of which constitutes a
potential failure site.
Bill - do you know how many amps each strand of braid can
handle? I'm trying to figure this out for my current project and I
can't seem to find good data. I used six layers per connection for
my last project and it seemed like overkill - they never even got
slightly warm, even under some pretty heavy amp draws.
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: As the
vehicle flexes, the batteries will move relative to one
another. If you rigidly connect the posts with short bars, you will
have problems. The connections will loosen up. The posts will break
their seals.
These days, I put several layers of 3/4" copper braid inside
a short piece of copper pipe. I flatten the pipe with a hammer, then
punch a hole in it for the battery stud. Same thing on the other end.
Works flawlessly.
Bill Dube'
At 09:28 PM 12/26/2006, you wrote:
>I have a set of Interstate U2400 batteries with small L posts and I
>am making my interconnects. I have some copper bar stock (.08 inch
>thick by 1 inch wide) and 2/0 stranded welding cable. So far I have
>made an interconnect with both and neither seems to have much flex
>for short connections. The copper bar stock seems slightly better
>(and it is much easier to get the proper fit.)
>
>I think I will do my short interconnects with the copper stock
>meaning I need to buy some more of it. Each interconnect will have
>at least 2 right angle bends so I suspect I may be over-analyzing
>the situation, but I thaught it was worth asking.
>
>for my next order would I be better off getting that is a bit
>thinner, or stick with the .08 inch stock? As I recall I can get it
>in 1/16 if an inch (.0625).
>
>For reference my conversion will be 144 volts and I plan to use the
>Zilla to limit battery draw to 400 amps.
>
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Certainly rolling resistance increases when a tire is under-inflated,
but that may have more to do with the design spec of the tire. I dyno-ed
my 4x4 at 24psi street pressure on 35x12.50-15Rs and barely eeked out
85HP at the rear wheels -- with a visible standing wave where the tire
met the drive roller. Aired up to 40psi, with no other changes, I saw
105RWHP.
Now granted, off-highway flotation tires are apples (pomegranates?) to
low-rolling-resistance EV tire oranges, but the example does speak to
under-inflation and resistance.
Consider also that tire width and exposed height contributes to frontal
area, which directly impacts drag and overall efficiency (at least when
off the dyno, where airflow resistance matters not).
Randii
Randy Burleson
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tires
Proof is how much rolling resistance increases when a tire is
underinflated.
Which of course is why your mileage improves so much if you keep your
tires
inflated to the max.
On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 12:04 am, Brian M. Sutin wrote:
> I have to second Jay Lashlee's comments on low rolling resistance
> tires. The contact patch area, treads, and so on are not the primary
> drivers of rolling resistance. What is important is the flexibility
> of the sidewall. Why? Energy balance -- that's where the lost energy
> goes.
>
> The only independent study I know of for low rolling resistance tires
> is Green Seal's "Choose Green" report from March 2003. Do a google
> search for it. The results are interesting. The tire I ultimately
> chose for my EV was a narrower version of the best tire from that
> study.
>
> Brian
> Alfa Romeo Conversion
> http://www.skewray.com/alfa
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Running an individual cell to zero volts does NOT harm the cell, in fact
this is the recommended storage method (run cell to zero volts and store
it shorted).
*nod* I'm actually kicking around a circuit that will mount to the top
of each BB600 and allow the user to monitor the battery voltage,
identify a reversal, and (cool thing) apply a 2 watt resistor across the
battery with a relay when you want to do a flat-line discharge.
I'll try it out on the 60 cell Elec-trak later this winter, if it has
promise I might give it a go on the truck in the spring. But having 252
resistors sitting on the battery might be a bit odd.
What I have done with the truck is run it till the batteries are (IMHO)
tired, then let it sit at 2ah drain for about 2-3 hours to let the pack
go down a bit more gently, then charge up again. Seems to work with
minimal reversing issues (ie: I have not blown the pack up) But running
it down with a 50 amp load sounds bad. Also my idea of "low" is 1.0vpc
@90a load cutoff.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve,
Forward the picture, I may be able to identify it.
Thanks,
Rod
--- Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A list member asked me for some help identifying two
> controllers that he said are GE EV-1's.
>
> The first one was no issue. It is definately out
> of a Jet Industries, and is an EV-1C. It is still
> in the big metal box fully assembled with contactors
> and all. I can't mistake that thing. I told him it
> is worth about $250 if it works. I feel that is
> fair for one of these that can run 144 V / 300 A.
> I've heard both 300 A and 400 A. Maybe 400 A? It
> isn't a whole lot of power, but it works OK for a
> low budget.
>
> The other one, I have no idea. It looks GE. It
> looks like it has 4 large caps in parallel. That
> would make it like an EV-1D, but it isn't anything
> like any picture I have of an EV-1D. It might be an
> EV-100, but it seems too big for that. Maybe it is
> an EV-200? Maybe it is an EV-2000 ... I believe
> there actually was such a thing, but that is an AC
> motor controller. This thing looks like a basic
> SCR, but also looks very heavy duty. It doesn't
> have the standard EV-1 card. It has somethig else
> and turned sideways. Are there any GE experts out
> there how can say for sure what this thing is and
> put a value on it? He said it was laveled 156 V ...
> Could potentially be a good controller, or could be
> a big paper weight ...
>
> If so, reply to me and I'll forward you the
> picture.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
that's really sad .. it looks soooo cute !
i wonder what you guys think of this baby from merc :
http://www.gizmag.com/go/3628/
after the smartcar, this is cool .. maybe it is better than the smartcar
..peekay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:40 AM
Subject: RE: gizmag Article: The Moovie: they built it
> The car looks absolutely stunning, but like most things
> that focus on the looks - it is impossible to use.
> >From what I see the _entire_ car is unsprung.
> How would it go over a speed bump or even a small threshold
> when it has virtually no ground clearance and the only
> flex is in about 1" tire height?
> I think it does the same as a road bicycle in a pothole:
> break its rim.
> Even if this vehicle was allowed on the road, I would not
> want to ride it anywhere at a speed over 5 MPH, as its
> suspension is as good as a shopping cart.
>
> As soon as all wheels (including the spheres) are allowed
> to travel about 8 inches, or at least 4" with ultra stiff
> suspension, then you may have a freeway-going vehicle.
> If not, it stays a glorified 4-wheel bicycle.
>
> BTW - bicycles have very low rolling resistance, else a
> human cold not move it forward at any useful speed,
> because we produce about 0.1 hp when pedaling, the
> power consumption of a human-powered bike is about 7Wh/mi
> while an eBike may use up to 20Wh/mi due to higher speed.
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of GWMobile
> Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 10:54 PM
> To: Ev List
> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: gizmag Article: The Moovie: they built it
>
>
> Speaking of low rolling resistance tires look at the Moovie electric
> concept car built by peugout (sp).
>
> Those big circles surrounding the doors are the hubless drive wheels you
> step through to get in and out. Look closely. That door trim IS THE
> WHEEL.
>
> Low mass.
> Large diameter for smoother bump transitions and low rolling
> resistance.
> A bunch of the cars on this page are electric.
>
> http://www.gizmag.com/go/4506/
>
>
> www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
> and the melting poles.
>
> www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.28/606 - Release Date:
28/12/2006
>
>
___________________________________________________________
Try the all-new Yahoo! Mail. "The New Version is radically easier to use" The
Wall Street Journal
http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
thanks
i'm using some very simple equations to simulate the expected results and i
did not see a big difference using two motors at low amps? but before i put a
lot of weight on my simulations i want to finish my current bike and get some
hard data. however i'm still learning about what is out there for my next bike
lyle sloan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Just saw your blog. Good Job!!
Since you already have a Pmg-130, you could add
another to the jackshaft to add more power if you got
the room.
Or look into an AC motor setup. I know
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ and
http://www.electricmotorsport.com offer AC setups.
And I am pretty sure the other Ev parts sellers do
too.
I know the advantages of brushless, but I would
recommend staying away from brushless at this time
until it becomes more available.
Make sure you add your cycle to the
http://www.evalbum.com and poke your head in at
http://www.electricmotorcycles.net
Lyle
--- dale henderson
wrote:
> looking for a good motor: brushless/PM 10-12 HP
>
> i would like something a little more powerful than
> the etek or pmg132, but not sure about the lemco200
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>
> check out my blog:
>
> http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
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protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
Steve Condie wrote:
I worried about that 5% factor but the zeners I got (from Allied Electronics, perhaps?) for less than a quarter apiece turned out to be very closely matched in practice.
Agreed. I got a ton from DigiKey and was using my variable voltage bench
supply to test the regs (50) before putting them in the car. All came in
at pretty much the exact same voltage.
Also since they are parachute type regs they don't have to be *quite* as
razor sharp as dumper type regs.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
Yea I have just the port...
And it won't do you much good at all.
The Magnachargers use very high freq and super water cooled padles to move
up to 25 Kw at 380Khz through the port. The controls and feedbacks are
rather advanced.
Well, for cars the MC onboard controller would limit the amount of
current going into the car. So you could set a 6kw limit for your car,
pull up to a 25kw unit and it will fill your car at 6kw. Really nice
actually. And I don't have water cooling...
The recepticle is not much more that the outside magnetics of a HF
transformer and the rectifier diodes that convert it back to DC to the EV
side battery control system.
Correct. There are typically three parts to a CC200 system: Paddle slot,
CC200 computer, and the frob that actually regulates the output power to
the pack. On the EV1's and 160kw Dolphins the computer is built into the
car's controller. On the Prizms and trucks it is discrete.
These have twin 60 mm Fans just to cool themselves and one of them is rated
to 10,600 rpm.
This this must have blown off a few Kw of waste heat at full power!!.
Maybe a few watts, but a few Kw? This is a 6.6kw charger we're taking
about :-)
The PFC50 you have won't make that much waste heat.. EVER!
Eh. The inductive coupling for the MC is around 98% efficient. I've
monitored the port temps on my car and they never really get too warm.
The real bear though is that you need a complete system. I have seen
them turn up on Ebay from time to time; but not too often.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul G. wrote:
Yes, JB weld is also rather conductive. I was not aware that heat sink
epoxy would be conductive. Now that I know its not an issue. If I didn't
know that could have been a problem. Thanks to Lee for pointing out this
potential issue!
I guess. I used the Mouser potting compound and my set of 50 regs is not
leaking enough to trip the Dolphin's rather sensitive "holy smokes there
is a ground fault in the pack!" detection circuit.
I thought the zener fit into the lug where the wire was supposed to go
(it seemed to me that would be the heat sink for the zener.) My question
was about how to solder the wire to the lug since it wasn't in the crimp
part of the lug. I'm a bit confused (I know little round parts have a
hard time meeting their rated watt specs without some way to ditch heat.)
What I did was take the lug, and use a little drill bit to put a small
hole in the end of the lug's barrel. Right where it flattens out to the
part that goes on the battery. Then take the zener, roll it in a bit of
the potting epoxy stuff, then slip it into the lug and let the wire come
through the hole. Put aside 100 of these, then bake on a cookie tin at
120 degrees for an hour in your wife's oven. Spend time listening to
your wife yell at you for this.
Then take the wire, wrap it around the end of the lug, use your Radio
Shack butane soldering iron to quickly heat the lug, solder, then drop
in bucket of water. Repeat 100 times. Done.
I've built about 80 complete regs so far, no failures. My sad Prius pack
is still plugging along though :-)
Chris
Chris
Paul "neon" G.
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Connect 5 volts between pin 1 (+) and pin 3 (-) on the Regbus. It puts all
the regs into equalize mode (raises the threshold 10%) until you are ready
to use them. It eliminates the pain of disconnecting and reconnecting them.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Rudman regs & a Soniel charger.
> Seems the Soniel 48v charger has three charge levels.55v 58v and one
> slightly higher. I noticed my batteries were charging at 14.75 early in
the
> cycle. NOt badly balanced I noticed 58.32vdc without regs. & eventully
> stopping of charge. I'd have one battery(at end of charge) that was
> charging slightly lower. 13.5 vs maybe one battery over 14v and the
others
> maybe 13.75. I now have them all around 13.8 but this happened when I
added
> the regs. Seems that when the charger sensed the regs it cut back from
58.32
> to 55.23. It still hasn't stopped charging & this is all now done on a
> full charge. I'm getting a bad feeling that these old rev d & C regs
won't
> work with this charger on the bulk charge and still balance at the end of
> charge. The charger charges higher first and cools off later. I'm using
> these on a Lepton scooter with 4 BB 50 ah batteries. Maybe the answer is
to
> just use the regs at end of charge only. But that is a pain. Lawrence
> Rhodes.....
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EVLN(Crocketts' 94 Saturn sta. wagon hums as it runs)-long
[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
--- {EVangel}
http://www.statesmanjournal.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061223/NEWS/612230319/1001
GOING ELECTRIC Salem couple are driven to make a change
Saving money inspires pair to replace engine with an electric motor
BETH CASPER Statesman Journal December 23, 2006
[image
http://cmsimg.statesmanjournal.com/apps/pbcsi.dll/bilde?Site=J0&Date=20061223&Category=NEWS&ArtNo=612230319&Ref=V2&Profile=1001&MaxW=568&MaxH=500&Site=J0&Q=80&Border=0&Title=1
] TIMOTHY J. GONZALEZ | STATESMAN JOURNAL
Charles Crockett talks about the electric motor he installed
during the conversion of a 1994 Saturn station wagon into an
electric car. His 29-mile commute now costs him between 30 and 60
cents per day.
The Crocketts' 1994 Saturn station wagon hums as it runs.
For this South Salem couple, it's the sweet sound of saving
money, conserving natural resources, protecting homeland security
and reducing the impact on the environment.
Charles Crockett replaced the 150,000-mile engine with an
electric motor and 20 batteries.
"I was almost going to buy an electric vehicle," he said. "But
they have top speed of 40 miles per hour. I work in Keizer and I
jump on the freeway so that wouldn't work."
The Crocketts are likely among only a handful of people statewide
who converted to an all-electric vehicle to commute to work.
"Not many people come to us who are going to make their own car,"
said Rick Wallace, senior energy analyst at Oregon Department of
Energy. "You have to have a particular talent and a real drive to
do so, because it is a lot of work."
Charles is quick to point out that he is not a mechanic or an
electrician. It helped that he knows how to do research -- he
works as a librarian at Whiteaker Middle School in Keizer. And he
knows how cars work.
But the skill most important for this project: the ability to
solve puzzles.
In this case, it took 200 hours.
The Crocketts decided to look into electric vehicles last winter
when gas hit $3 a gallon. At that time, Charles spent $10 a day
commuting to Keizer in a Chevrolet truck.
Charles and his wife, Ronda, looked into buying an electric
vehicle but found many of them can't drive at highway speeds.
The hybrids were expensive and not fuel-efficient enough.
They also needed a vehicle that would go 80 miles on a charge and
could handle the additional energy needed for hills.
The more research the couple did, the more they leaned toward
converting a car themselves.
They also learned about the theory of "peak oil," which says that
global oil production plateaus and then declines. Some predict
that this will happen in the next five or so years, which will
result in ever-increasing oil prices.
"So, we are trying to be prepared for what we believe is the
future of higher gas prices," Ronda said. "Perhaps we are seeing
the beginning of the end of the 'age of gas.' "
The Crocketts also wanted to reduce their dependence on foreign
fuel -- an act they call "patriotic" because it keeps America
from relying on other nations, some of which are politically
unstable.
The couple noted the lack of harmful pollutants spewing from a
tailpipe, but they are cautious about touting the environmental
benefits.
"We still know that electricity is produced somewhere and
somehow, and no energy is completely environmentally friendly,"
Ronda said. "We are not silly enough to believe we are saving the
planet with one (electric) car. But ... if the U.S. car
manufacturers get smart, they will produce a 'plug in' (electric)
car next year. Then when millions of Americans can buy an EV, we
actually could improve the air we breathe as well."
In the end, though, it was saving money that inspired Charles to
spend his nights and weekends for three months this fall
converting to an electric car.
His 29-mile commute now costs him between 30 and 60 cents a day.
"I believe in saving the environment, but that was not my focus,"
Charles said. "The focus was the money in my pocket."
The couple spent $11,500 on the vehicle, which includes $900 to
purchase the Saturn and a couple hundred dollars on "mistakes,"
Charles said. The batteries cost $1,700 and the electric
conversion kit cost $6,700.
The cost of the electric conversion will be paid off in gas
savings in just more than 2 years, the Crocketts estimate.
Charles plugs in the car every night. It takes between six and
eight hours to fully charge the batteries.
Gary Graunke of the Oregon Electric Vehicle Association said many
people turn to electric vehicles for a surprising use: drag
racing. It turns out that electric cars can accelerate quickly.
Since finishing the conversion in November, the Crocketts are
very proud of their "new" vehicle. They hope to encourage other
"fix-it" types to build an all-electric car for themselves.
"You don't have to be a real mechanic to do this," Charles said.
"You just have to be determined," Ronda said, smiling.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or (503) 589-6994
[...]
Copyright ©2006 StatesmanJournal.com All rights reserved
-
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
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