EV Digest 6283
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) A down under newby help..
by "Don Moyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Ed Begley: "Living With Ed"
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Chevy VOLT
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: ProEV news
by "ProEV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Precharge light bulb
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Hydraulic drive
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) GM Volt Makes it to NPR
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Chevy VOLT
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Security Circuit / Controller failure
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) forklift wheelmotors 200pounds each
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Battery Beach ScooterCross
by "Matt Graham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Precharge light bulb
by "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Very strange Dragonfly news...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by Markus Wachsmuth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) new to list
by Jennifer Herzberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Chevy VOLT
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Battery Beach ScooterCross
by "ProEV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) My 1990 Honda Civic Conversion
by "Neil Wicai" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: new to list
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Very strange Dragonfly news...
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: How to test a motor?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by Markus Wachsmuth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by "Joe Plumer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Security Circuit / Controller failure
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Help with Brushes / Motor Again
by "Michael A. Radtke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: new to list
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
-----
Please help if you can,
Attached is the wiring diagram for the above controller in a Crown fork lift
opperating two Prestolte 48 volt 6.7" motors.
I wish to fit both in a VW Beatle with this controller. What would be its
safe opperating range, volts and amps?
Would it be possible for anybody to advise how this wiring diagram needs to
be modified to work with the two motors in a VW beatle?
Any other information you may feel helpful would be appreciated.
Yours faithfully ,
Don Moyes
South Australia
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I stumbled into a 10pm show on HGTV Sunday night entitled 'Living With Ed".
It depicted his renewable energy life and his EV he drives daily with about 8kw
photovoltaics on the roof for charging. He noted that by cleaning the panels 3
times a year, output improves by up to 20% (from when they're dirty). It was a
great show but not sure if it's going to be a series or a one time thing. The
show played up his dingbat clueless complaining wife (which may have been done
for contrasting personalities "viewer interest") although it's similar to my
home and my renewable energy friends. The wives are more interested in
esthetics rather than functionality. I'll have to put up more photovoltaic
panels to keep up with him.
Best Regards,
Mark
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Did you notice you can vote as many timeas as you wish ? :) Let's make
BEV's popular and very interesting thing.
-Jukka
Mike Willmon kirjoitti:
Cor,
I followed up my e-mail with the reply below. It just hasn't made it yet. I
suspect if they don't want to build them they will
continue with the "batteries are not there yet" excuse; no matter what their
poll says. It is public however so this bodes well
for the message. However I kinda think they can't afford to miss the boat this
time. But I still don't think they care about an
oil free or pollution free interest.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Willmon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 12:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Chevy VOLT
I stand corrected, they do show the results.
I voted Yes and Yes BTW...weelll I would consider it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Rush,
I have a question about your brake setup - why 2 pedals? is there a system
for the rear and a system for the front? and what is the other thing on
the left, a push to lock for both pedals?
We use three pedals.
The far right one is the accelerator (though we are always forgetting and
calling it the gas pedal<G>). It controls a potentiometer who's signal goes
to both inverters.
The middle pedal controls the mechanical (friction) brakes. Like most modern
brake system it uses two separate brake hydraulic master cylinders to
activate the front and rear disc brakes.
The far left pedal controls our regenerative braking system. We have a
electronic pressure sensor attached to what was the clutch master cylinder.
We found this gives closer to the feel of a brake pedal. More pressure, more
regen. This signal goes to both inverters. We are running equal amounts of
regen front and rear but we can easily adjust this in the inverter software.
On the track, I use my left foot to brake with the regen pedal. My right
foot comes off the accelerator and blends in mechanical brake.
On the street, we rarely need the mechanical brakes.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another little trick is to use a pot instead of a fixed resistor. Turn it up
to maximum, where you are sure it is above the value required to close the
relay. Turn the car on and precharge. Then adjust the pot until the relay
closes. That's the value you need. This avoids having to experiement too much
while in close proximity to high voltage contacts - I knew eventually I'd
accidentaly touch one.
For a 114V pack in my old escort, a 10K pot worked fine. I don't recall what
it was adjusted to.
David Brandt
----- Original Message ----
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2007 12:56:52 PM
Subject: Re: Precharge light bulb
Bruce wrote:
> This sounds good. Two details I could use advice on are:
>
> 1) The "small relay contact in series with the bulb" - Specifically
> what relay or contactor would be suitable for this? Rating /
> manufacturer / source?
Unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer, a contact's DC voltage
rating is about 1/4th of its AC voltage rating. So, a "120vac" relay
contact is good for 120/4 = 30vdc, and a "240vac" contact is good for 60vdc.
The voltage rating of contacts in series add. So a 2-pole 240vac relay
can switch 240/4 x 2 = 120vdc; a 3-pole 240vac relay can switch 180vdc.
So, I used a 3-pole relay with 240vac 5amp contacts in series to switch
my precharge resistor (75w light bulb) on my 144vdc pack. I happened to
have this relay in my "junk box" (a Thermo King 1084A82G04), but it's
equivalent to the Potter & Brumfield KUP series. Or, you can use a
special relay with DC rated contacts like the Potter & Brumfield KUEP or
PRD series.
> 2) "When the controller has precharged, its voltage pulls in a second
> relay" -- How do you tell when the controller has precharged?
> Where does this second relay get its input from?
I used a relay with a 120vac coil, and added a resistor in series so it
pulled in when it reached 132vdc (about 12v less than my pack voltage).
This was wired across the controller input (B+ to B-). Here again, you
can use an AC coil on DC, but the rated DC voltage is lower. There is no
rule-of-thumb for how much lower; you have to measure it for yourself.
My junkbox relay (CP Clare GP3R123AA6000) required 25vdc to pull in, and
a 6.2k resistor in series to pull in at 132vdc.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One thing about hydaulics - assuming no leaks, the drive system is locked
and won't move unless you release the flow by opening a valve.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Thomasson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: Hydraulic drive
> With not mechanical brakes, how do they avoid rolling down hill when they
> park on an incline? Mark T.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "GWMobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Hydraulic drive
>
>
> > You could do the same thing for less cost with only slighly less
> > efficicency if you had a single electric motor powering a hydraulic pump
> > sending hydralic fluild to standard hydraulic motors in each wheel.
> > Only valves would be needed to creat a slip traction control system and
> > regen could also happen through the fluid and the single electric motor.
> >
> > On Fri, 5 Jan 2007 5:23 pm, Chris wrote:
> >> Yes PML Flightlink, makers of printed circuit motors built this 4
> >> wheel drive Mini with 640HP using 4 of their wheel motors
> >>
> >> Check it out... http://tinyurl.com/nqddx
> >>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 1/6/2007
7:47 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Heard a spot on the GM Volt said to be damage control from the Movie Who
Killed the electric car. Lawrence Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seems a 40 mile range is ok if it is associated with an ICE. Lawrence
Rhodes.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do not depend on a contactor as a safety device. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: Security Circuit / Controller failure
>
> Hello:
>
> I finished putting my controller failure security system in my truck and I
> thought I give some info:
>
> I reed-relay is put across (+) to controller. It switches (+) from the
> brake lights to a relay. The relay would be activated if the brake lights
> are on AND the reed switch is closed (at about 200 Amps). It will then
> disconnect the contractor.
>
> Well, first try worked great - however, since once the contractor has been
> disabled, there will be no more current at the (+) leading to the
> controller, hence the reed opens, the control relay opens, the contractor
> re-engages and everything starts from the beginning, leading to a
> contractor flutter. SO - one has to make sure that once the relay engages,
> it needs to stay engaged preventing the continuous open- and close of the
> controller.
>
> Did that now and the contractor will be disabled until ignition is turned
> off.
>
> With the added safety in place, I feel much better now.
>
> Michaela
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> For now about the only thing I can think of is Forklift wheel motors.
About
> 200 pounds each. Maybe more. 15 to one ratio. Lawrence Rhodes I have
two
> you can have if you strip off the motors. Lawrence Rhodes.........
can these be viewed on the net ? maker's website ?
and do these power the driveshift of the differential .. or each wheel
independently ?
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Darin and other BBB pilgrims!
I can't really give you a rough layout since we haven't put it together yet,
but I can describe what we did last year with the setup at Moroso. Hopefully
Lowell or Cliff will chime in with their takes on the previous one.
The course was basically an oval-ish track that allowed for two periods
where you could really pick up speed along the longer sides. This was great
for getting autocross novices like myself into really wonderful trouble! We
had cones set up that you'd have to pass on the left or right, as well as
the "tunnel" of cones that you'd have to manuever through. Cliff will
probably proceed to educate me (again) on the use of the term "chicane"
here! On the last straightaway, just before the finish, you could really
pick up a lot of speed through the timing light. Steve Clunn and Charles
Whalen were becoming experts, since they must have gone through the course
several times each. Joule Injected (actually the driver) performed
less-than-stellarly in the autocross -- not surprisingly -- so I didn't
spend much time on the autocross course.
I expect that the course this year will be similar. I believe we may have a
little more room in the parking lot at FAU, so that may mean more turns, or
perhaps higher speeds, or both. The scootercross course may have the cones
"tightened up" a bit to narrow the course, but I expect it will be the same
layout as that used for the cars. Maybe not, though -- I will defer to
Lowell and Cliff on this one.
Hope this was more useful to you than no information at all!
Matt Graham
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of BFRListmail
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 5:51 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Battery Beach ScooterCross
>
> Battery Beach Organizers,
>
> What is the rough layout and speed of the ScooterCross
> course? I'm just building up a scooter right now, and a few
> course details would help me with what mods are needed.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Darin Gilbert
>
> BadFishRacing
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How many watts does this pot need to be rated for?
_________________________________________
David Brandt wrote:
Another little trick is to use a pot instead of a fixed resistor. Turn it
up to maximum, where you are sure it is above the value required to close
the relay. Turn the car on and precharge. Then adjust the pot until the
relay closes. That's the value you need. This avoids having to experiement
too much while in close proximity to high voltage contacts - I knew
eventually I'd accidentaly touch one.
>
> For a 114V pack in my old escort, a 10K pot worked fine. I don't recall
what it was adjusted to.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any comment on the "financial and ethical misconduct" mentioned in one of the
responses, or is this just par for the course for EV start-ups?
> Very strange Dragonfly news I ran across completely by accident:
>
> http://transcendentalfloss.com/2006/08/blogging-bellingham-19.html
>
> Bill D.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A quick question:
* => Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
This is for a Jeep Wrangler I recently converted to an EV. It currently
has lead acid batteries and the autonomy at 20km (~13 miles) is just too
low. I hope to also save weight with the new set of batteries, which
should make it more responsive.
The more precise specs are:
* min. capacity: 120Ah
* nominal voltage: 180V to 200V
* max. current: 300A
* nominal current: 150A to 180A
If at all possible, a European source would be best as the Jeep is in
Geneva, Switzerland.
Thank you!
Markus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello, My name is Alan Herzberg. I own a 2006 Prius and I just bought
a 93 Geo Metro Solectria Force GT, 144 volts, 2 AC motors. 12 group 24
AGM's with 5000 miles on it and a 94 Dodge TEvan, 180 volts, DC motor, 2
speed new process gearbox, 30 group 24 AGM's with only 435 miles.
Both cars were owned by Johnson Controls as part of a test project for
the AGM battery they sold at the time.
They have been stored outside for the last 3 years and uncharged. I
will need all new batteries.
I am looking for advice on battery options as well as any updates or
improvements that can be made to optimize these vehicles for their
active new lifestyle! Both chassis are in excellent condition.
Thank you,
Alan Herzberg
Columbus, WI
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That doesn't say much for their web masters does it! You would think they
could afford better.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jukka Järvinen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Chevy VOLT
Did you notice you can vote as many timeas as you wish ? :) Let's make
BEV's popular and very interesting thing.
-Jukka
Mike Willmon kirjoitti:
Cor,
I followed up my e-mail with the reply below. It just hasn't made it
yet. I suspect if they don't want to build them they will
continue with the "batteries are not there yet" excuse; no matter what
their poll says. It is public however so this bodes well
for the message. However I kinda think they can't afford to miss the
boat this time. But I still don't think they care about an
oil free or pollution free interest.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Willmon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 12:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Chevy VOLT
I stand corrected, they do show the results.
I voted Yes and Yes BTW...weelll I would consider it.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7 Jan 2007 at 18:18, Matthew Milliron wrote:
> I plan to buy an OEM electric car as soon as one is available.
I said that in 1967. I'm still waiting.
In 1978 GM said my wait would be over in 1980, because then I could buy an
electric Chevette. I'm still waiting.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Darin,
Looking for that competitive edge<G>?
I have not seen the area we have for the autocross and ScooterCross yet, but
I think our layout design philosophy is to make the course an adequate
representation of the kind of challenges a scooter would normally face in
day to day use.
You can expect to see at least one slalom (for weaving between those pesky
pedestrians), lots of turns, a good straight and a hard brake zone. I do not
think we will have any curbs to hop or any planned off road section.
To simulate Florida traffic challenges, I have been pushing for having a
Hummer driven by a person on a cell phone randomly crossing the course but
the event insurance people are being sticky.
Hope this helps.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
Battery Beach Organizers,
What is the rough layout and speed of the ScooterCross
course? I'm just building up a scooter right now, and a few
course details would help me with what mods are needed.
Thanks,
Darin Gilbert
BadFishRacing
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Group.
I started my 1990 Honda Civic conversion in the mid 1990's and it's about
90% complete. I am moving and have decided to let go of the project. It's a
192 volt system with a Kostov motor and Grizzly controller. Just about all
components are purchased except the batteries.
If anyone is interested please contact me off line at my e-mail below.
Neil
Neil P. Wicai, Survey Sales Representative
Surveyors Service Company - New Mexico
(505) 345-1097 (Office)
(800) 938-0609 (Toll Free)
(505) 345-3499 (Fax)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 8 Jan 2007 at 17:16, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
> Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
> NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
Saft STM5-180 nicads sound like just the ticket. I hope you have deep
pockets. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 8 Jan 2007 at 9:42, Jennifer Herzberg wrote:
> I am looking for advice on battery options
Solectria found that East Penn Deka gel batteries (8G27) worked well for the
Force. Many owners would agree. Do some trawling through the Solectria
Yahoo group :
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/
Tevans were fitted with Eagle-Picher nickel-iron initially and later with
Saft nicads, IIRC. The EP were prototypes and are not available. The Saft
are a bit hard to find and quite expensive, around $600+ / kWh, but worth it
IMO.
Rod Hower worked on the TeVan project, I think, and maybe he'll chime in
here.
What kind of chargers did you get with the vehicles? That might influence
your choices.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The police investigation was what made me say "Whoa!" aloud when I read it.
At 09:02 AM 1/8/2007, you wrote:
Any comment on the "financial and ethical misconduct" mentioned in one of the
responses, or is this just par for the course for EV start-ups?
> Very strange Dragonfly news I ran across completely by accident:
>
> http://transcendentalfloss.com/2006/08/blogging-bellingham-19.html
>
> Bill D.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Aaron
I haven't seen one of those old Yales in a long time
but it isnt a sep-ex motor but instead a series wound
motor from memory and pics. If you look at the field
windings they are big stout windings of a series wound
motor. From your blog I see that you now know that
this is an 8 terminaled motor. The two field coil
terminal pairs are jumped together on the outside of
the plate. To test try this
Batt- F1 / F2
/ / \
Batt+/--->A1 A2 \
\ A3 A4 /
\ /
F3--jump--F4
The terminal numbers are just to help plot the
connections. Battery- to F1. Batt+ to A1. Jump F3
to F4 and then A2 to F2. This ought to get that motor
turning and to see what direction it runs on this
connection. This is from memory, if it does not spin
up smooth contact me off list.
Hope this helps
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Aaron Quinto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [email protected]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 6, 2007 6:35:40 PM
> > Subject: How to test a motor?
> >
> > I'm new to EV's, but I really want to build at
> least one EV to show
> > people that it can be done. I was waiting to send
> this out question
> > until I had built my little website about it so
> that if anyone has
> > any questions about the pieces and parts, you
> could check there.
> > Here's the link for the site:
> >
> > http://www.quintonet.com/qev1/
> >
> > I'm using that as my "diary" or "weblog" of the
> build, for anyone
> > else that might try to do something like it in the
> future. One of the
> > sections I came up with is "Roadblocks." This is
> where I'm going to
> > list all of the problems I run into and how I
> either resolved them,
> > or got around them. So, at this point, I'm at
> roadblock # 2, which is
> > "Will the motor run?" This is where I need some
> help from the more
> > experienced EV'rs.
> >
> > The motor I'm using is a separately excited one
> from a forklift and I
> > want to make sure that it will run under battery
> power before I
> > continue to buy a controller. I've tried to make
> note of everything
> > I've done so far on the website, but basically,
> here's my question to you:
> >
> > What do I need to do to get a sepex motor running
> directly from a
> > battery? The book I have says that I need to
> install some type of
> > resistance in-line with the windings and the
> armature, but what do I
> > use for the resistance? I thought about maybe just
> getting a cheap
> > headlight and adding that in-line, but then I
> figured it would
> > probably blow because of the current of the motor.
> I tried wiring the
> > two fields in series, but that didn't do anything.
> What do you guys
> > suggest as a means of testing the motor to make
> sure I can get it to
> > actually spin?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you for your prompt response David.
And do you happen to know where I might get a price quote on those?
Also, do you happen to know where Tesla Motors sources their Li-Ion
batteries?
Markus
David Roden wrote:
On 8 Jan 2007 at 17:16, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
Saft STM5-180 nicads sound like just the ticket. I hope you have deep
pockets. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If cost is a consideration, I've been looking into paralleling 18650 cells. I'm
doing an AC conversion, and am going to try and build a 350V or so pack, with
30 parallel cells or so?
Should I parallel more together for more current capability? Most of the time
the pack won't be seeing much current, as the car is a small, light Scion xA.
As for balancing during use, I'm hoping just keeping it balanced when charging
will be sufficient. I've been doing some testing with a few cells, and when a
cell gets discharged too low, the PCB will open the circuit, taking that cell
out of the pack basically. So, hopefully as long as you don't discharge the
entire pack too deeply, a few bad cells here and there will be ok?
I'm thinking of charging each parallel group of 30 cells together as one huge
~60Ah pack (each cell is going to be 2-2.4Ah).
- Tony
- Tony
Markus Wachsmuth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
A quick question:
* => Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
This is for a Jeep Wrangler I recently converted to an EV. It currently
has lead acid batteries and the autonomy at 20km (~13 miles) is just too
low. I hope to also save weight with the new set of batteries, which
should make it more responsive.
The more precise specs are:
* min. capacity: 120Ah
* nominal voltage: 180V to 200V
* max. current: 300A
* nominal current: 150A to 180A
If at all possible, a European source would be best as the Jeep is in
Geneva, Switzerland.
Thank you!
Markus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not a naysayers but i'm definitively a "nEV(1)erFromGM purchaser"
They are actually crossing the pond with cars but GM/Chevrolet will never
see my money even if they make one day a beautiful EV.
I prefer purchasing from people project's like Lee, Jerry or others or
Teslamotors or making conversions myself...all but never GM !
this said i have voted on their survey for an EV for sure :^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
> It looks like the naysayers on this list who think that this is pure BS or
a
> green publicity stunt may have it right according to comments made by
Walter
> McManus, a former GM executive who is now director of automotive analysis
at
> the University of Michigan. In The Independent 1/7/07 from the UK he said
he
> had: ...."skepticism that the Volt would ever get to market, and said
there
> were quicker ways for the US car industry to reduce the environmental
impact
> of their products." You can read the full article here:
> http://news.independent.co.uk/business/news/article2134926.ece
>
> Roderick Wilde
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matthew Milliron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 4:18 PM
> Subject: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
>
>
> >
> > I plan to buy an OEM electric car as soon as one is available. I
> > would like to buy a serial hybrid or pure electric with lithium cells
> > that does not look like a toy. However GM is right out. I refuse to
> > buy from such a two faced company. Ford is also not very high on my
> > personal list either. I got most of my information from this list and
> > I thank you for it. I just wanted to say that. It was nice to have
> > someone help cut through the doublethink for me. My Zilla can't get
> > here too soon.
> >
> >
> > R. Matt Milliron
> > 1981 Jet Electrica
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
> > My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
> > electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 1/6/2007
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 1/6/2007
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tony,
The issue with the 18650's is that most of them (unless you get the newest)
can't
support a continued discharge > 5A. So if you have 30 in parallel you'll
max out at
150A. If that's all you need, then let us know how your solution works in
practical
application.
I know I'd be interested.
From: Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:51:45 -0800 (PST)
If cost is a consideration, I've been looking into paralleling 18650 cells.
I'm doing an AC conversion, and am going to try and build a 350V or so
pack, with 30 parallel cells or so?
Should I parallel more together for more current capability? Most of the
time the pack won't be seeing much current, as the car is a small, light
Scion xA.
As for balancing during use, I'm hoping just keeping it balanced when
charging will be sufficient. I've been doing some testing with a few cells,
and when a cell gets discharged too low, the PCB will open the circuit,
taking that cell out of the pack basically. So, hopefully as long as you
don't discharge the entire pack too deeply, a few bad cells here and there
will be ok?
I'm thinking of charging each parallel group of 30 cells together as one
huge ~60Ah pack (each cell is going to be 2-2.4Ah).
- Tony
- Tony
Markus Wachsmuth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
A quick question:
* => Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
This is for a Jeep Wrangler I recently converted to an EV. It currently
has lead acid batteries and the autonomy at 20km (~13 miles) is just too
low. I hope to also save weight with the new set of batteries, which
should make it more responsive.
The more precise specs are:
* min. capacity: 120Ah
* nominal voltage: 180V to 200V
* max. current: 300A
* nominal current: 150A to 180A
If at all possible, a European source would be best as the Jeep is in
Geneva, Switzerland.
Thank you!
Markus
_________________________________________________________________
Find sales, coupons, and free shipping, all in one place! MSN Shopping
Sales & Deals
http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctid=198,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata=200639
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: Security Circuit / Controller failure
> Do not depend on a contactor as a safety device. Lawrence Rhodes.......
Yes Ya can! IF it is a BIG enough one! EVery electric locomotive,
street car and things of that size do. They, to, have to be able to stop at
ANY time. If you use a good contacter, the more contacts the better, you
should be cool.But a knife switch or other mechanical pull-it-apart setup is
a lot cheaper!
My two contacts worth
Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:05 PM
> Subject: Security Circuit / Controller failure
>
>
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > I finished putting my controller failure security system in my truck and
I
> > thought I give some info:
> >
> > I reed-relay is put across (+) to controller. It switches (+) from the
> > brake lights to a relay. The relay would be activated if the brake
lights
> > are on AND the reed switch is closed (at about 200 Amps). It will then
> > disconnect the contractor.
> >
> > Well, first try worked great - however, since once the contractor has
been
> > disabled, there will be no more current at the (+) leading to the
> > controller, hence the reed opens, the control relay opens, the
contractor
> > re-engages and everything starts from the beginning, leading to a
> > contractor flutter. SO - one has to make sure that once the relay
engages,
> > it needs to stay engaged preventing the continuous open- and close of
the
> > controller.
> >
> > Did that now and the contractor will be disabled until ignition is
turned
> > off.
> >
> > With the added safety in place, I feel much better now.
> >
> > Michaela
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/619 - Release Date: 1/7/07
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello,
A short history:
2 Years after buying my ElectraVan, the motor brushes failed. I
repaired the damage myself and drove for another 2 years before the
brushes failed again. Then, I sought the advice of this list and was
told that H100 was the correct brush grade and the wrong brush grade was
probably the cause of my problems. Since I didn't know what the
original nor first replacement grade was, the advice seemed to make
sense.
This time around, I took the motor to a local, recommended, motor
rebuilder since the commutator was damaged and I was frustrated. I
asked him to suggest a brush grade, and he agreed with H100. Now, 9
months later, the brushes are worn out and the commutator damaged beyond
what it was before. So, I have some questions:
1) Can I tell if H100 was used. Pictures are at:
http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/brushes.jpg
http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/commutator.jpg
2) What next?
Thanks,
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wrote the software for the AGM batteries back in
1994 to 95 with the last version written in Feb of
1995.
This charge profile will not work properly with the
Eagle Pitcher NiFe or Saft STM5-180 batteries.
Jeff Major offered some TEVan NiFe batteries on this
list several months ago. I believe some of the people
that bought them planned on using them for solar power
back up. Perhaps you could ask Jeff if any of those
buyers are interested in selling their batteries.
The battery charger program can be changed, but the
MCU used is an OTprom (that is one time programmable),
so you would need a new MCU.
I have all of the software versions, but I don't have
a programmer (I do have blank OTPROM MCU's, they are
Motorola MC68HC705B5's)
Let me know if I can help.
Rod
--- David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 8 Jan 2007 at 9:42, Jennifer Herzberg wrote:
>
> > I am looking for advice on battery options
>
> Solectria found that East Penn Deka gel batteries
> (8G27) worked well for the
> Force. Many owners would agree. Do some trawling
> through the Solectria
> Yahoo group :
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/
>
> Tevans were fitted with Eagle-Picher nickel-iron
> initially and later with
> Saft nicads, IIRC. The EP were prototypes and are
> not available. The Saft
> are a bit hard to find and quite expensive, around
> $600+ / kWh, but worth it
> IMO.
>
> Rod Hower worked on the TeVan project, I think, and
> maybe he'll chime in
> here.
>
> What kind of chargers did you get with the vehicles?
> That might influence
> your choices.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while
> you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how:
> http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses
> will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email
> address from
> the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = = = = =
>
>
--- End Message ---
