EV Digest 6284
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Help with Brushes / Motor Again
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Chevy VOLT
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by Bob Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) DCP Controller support
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) MC68HC705 programmer
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Hydraulic drive
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: PWM Module for fan
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Hydraulic drive
by Bill Palter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: PWM Module for fan
by "Arthur W. Matteson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) OT Re: Ed Begley: "Living With Ed"
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Precharge light bulb
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) So.. What is the EV technology today...
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: PWM Module for fan
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Charger Interlock/Contactor/DC COnv Question
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Help with Brushes / Motor Again
by "Michael A. Radtke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Battery Beach ScooterCross
by "BFRListmail" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Chevy VOLT - NOT!
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Charger Interlock/Contactor/DC COnv Question
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: So.. What is the EV technology today...
by "Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Chevy VOLT
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Bellingham: City of Innovation?
by "George J. Jones, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) precharge circuitry
by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) contacter and circuit breaker
by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Precharge light bulb
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) thundersky batteries
by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Precharge light bulb
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Micheal
It does not appear from the pics that an H-100 brush
grade was used. This brush looks very black and
carbony to me instead of the grey H-100 grade.
The one pic shows signs of at least one metal holder
taking some heat due to the brushes wearing down and
the resulting arcing. Unfurtunantly there are not a
lot of H-100 brush grades produced for these GE's, and
the ones available are pretty spendy. It's the down
side to owning a GE motor. I'm also wondering if you
might know if the motor is advanced or not?
I don't want to get myself in trouble here but It's my
opinion you got taken for a ride.
An H-100 brush is grey and considered to be a hard
brush (even though you can scratch it with your finger
nail). A carbon brush is black and considerd a soft
grade and you can not scratch it with your nail (go
figuer, lol).
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- "Michael A. Radtke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Hello,
>
> A short history:
>
> 2 Years after buying my ElectraVan, the motor
> brushes failed. I
> repaired the damage myself and drove for another 2
> years before the
> brushes failed again. Then, I sought the advice of
> this list and was
> told that H100 was the correct brush grade and the
> wrong brush grade was
> probably the cause of my problems. Since I didn't
> know what the
> original nor first replacement grade was, the advice
> seemed to make
> sense.
>
> This time around, I took the motor to a local,
> recommended, motor
> rebuilder since the commutator was damaged and I was
> frustrated. I
> asked him to suggest a brush grade, and he agreed
> with H100. Now, 9
> months later, the brushes are worn out and the
> commutator damaged beyond
> what it was before. So, I have some questions:
>
> 1) Can I tell if H100 was used. Pictures are at:
>
> http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/brushes.jpg
> http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/commutator.jpg
>
> 2) What next?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Actually ... now that you think of it... they made this by purpose. They
can misvalidate the resluts by saying it was a extreme terrorist act
against honest automotive industry. To mess their vote-thing.
But if they have no votes at all... Naa .. nobody is interested in EVs..
See the results of our superfine poll.
And we loose again.. how fair is this ?
I have some very interesting inquries from OEM auto makers. Should I
sell or not :) I'm having hard time with my morale here... WKTEC...
Jedi strikes back!
-Jukka
Roderick Wilde kirjoitti:
That doesn't say much for their web masters does it! You would think
they could afford better.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jukka Järvinen"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Chevy VOLT
Did you notice you can vote as many timeas as you wish ? :) Let's make
BEV's popular and very interesting thing.
-Jukka
Mike Willmon kirjoitti:
Cor,
I followed up my e-mail with the reply below. It just hasn't made it
yet. I suspect if they don't want to build them they will
continue with the "batteries are not there yet" excuse; no matter
what their poll says. It is public however so this bodes well
for the message. However I kinda think they can't afford to miss the
boat this time. But I still don't think they care about an
oil free or pollution free interest.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Willmon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 12:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Chevy VOLT
I stand corrected, they do show the results.
I voted Yes and Yes BTW...weelll I would consider it.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
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--- Begin Message ---
>And do you happen to know where I might get a price quote on those?
I looked at the STM5-100's and 24 of those was somewhere around $13000 or
$14000. Reasonable, yes, but more than I can afford right now. I would
expect the SM5-180's to be about 1.8 times that.
Dale Ulan
Calgary, Canada
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David:
Try Peak Energy, Henderson NV. I just bought a few Li Ion.
/Bob S.
On Jan 8, 2007, at 9:06 AM, David Roden wrote:
On 8 Jan 2007 at 17:16, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
Can anyone point me to places where can I purchase Li-Ion,
NiMH, NiCd batteries for storing approx. 22,000 kWh of energy?
Saft STM5-180 nicads sound like just the ticket. I hope you have deep
pockets. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Jerald said:
I did a very bad thing.
I was putting a different type of battery pack into my truck and I reversed
the polarity.
My faithful DCP 600 died instantly. I know DCP is long gone.
The switch was off and the contactors were open so I am hoping that maybe
just the capacitors were fried. Does anyone know if that is possible? or
is the silicon gone too? If the smoke is gone I have heard that the Silicon
is soldered directly to the buss bars and is almost impossible to change in
the DCP.
Does anyone have a contact for the guy that made these?
Really banging my haed against the wall.
Call Peter Senkowski 707-350-0156 nosmokin at earthlink.net will work also,
but you'll have to put up with Earthlinks anti spam. One of the things he can
do is to upgrade the 600 to 1200 specs.
Jerald said:
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, I think I still have a MC68HC705 (R3,B5,B6) programmer at home. If you
need it you can have it for say $50. Call 540-473-1248
Now I program the 08 flash microcontrollers for solar,wind & EV stuff.
Thanks, Mark
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: new to list
To: [email protected] Plain Text Attachment [ Scan and Save to
Computer | Save to Yahoo! Briefcase ]
I wrote the software for the AGM batteries back in 1994 to 95 with the last
version written in Feb of 1995. This charge profile will not work properly
with the Eagle Pitcher NiFe or Saft STM5-180 batteries. Jeff Major offered
some TEVan NiFe batteries on this list several months ago. I believe some of
the people that bought them planned on using them for solar power back up.
Perhaps you could ask Jeff if any of those buyers are interested in selling
their batteries. The battery charger program can be changed, but the MCU
used is an OTprom (that is one time programmable), so you would need a new
MCU. I have all of the software versions, but I don't have a programmer (I do
have blank OTPROM MCU's, they are Motorola MC68HC705B5's) Let me know if I
can help. Rod --- David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On 8 Jan 2007
at 9:42, Jennifer Herzberg wrote: > > > I am looking for advice on battery
options > > Solectria found that East Penn Deka gel
batteries > (8G27) worked well for the > Force. Many owners would agree.
Do some trawling > through the Solectria
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--- Begin Message ---
On 8 Jan 2007 at 18:34, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
> And do you happen to know where I might get a price quote on those?
Sorry, I don't have a European Saft contact, just a person here in the
States.
However, we have some European members of this list, and some of them may
know. Philippe Borges? Perhaps you could help?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
One thing about hydaulics - assuming no leaks, the drive system is locked
and won't move unless you release the flow by opening a valve.
It depends on your "plumbing". If there is just a pump on an electric
motor and hydraulic motor in the wheel, then pushing the car just makes
the electric motor turn, just like they were connected with gears.
But if there are values for hydraulic reversing, or an accumulator, or
check valves, or other sophistications; the vehicle could freewheel, or
be locked, just about anything else the designer may want to happen.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> On 7 Jan 2007 at 18:18, Matthew Milliron wrote:
>
> > I plan to buy an OEM electric car as soon as one is available.
>
> I said that in 1967. I'm still waiting.
>
> In 1978 GM said my wait would be over in 1980, because then I
> could buy an electric Chevette. I'm still waiting.
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
Then The Gipper got elected and the solar panels came down off the White
House.
Hostages were freed in exchange for arms to the Ayatollah, inflation died
and the gas got available and cheap again. Everyone forgot what an electric
car was and GM saw no incentive to go there.
Now that gas isn't so cheap....?
-Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michaela Merz wrote:
> I was wondering if there might be a way to have a PWM circuit
> to reduce load, giving me the opportunity to turn the fan lower.
>
> Any help or idea is appreciated.
If you don't decide to just get a factory control unit from a wrecker,
etc., you could put a simple circuit together based on the TI/Burr Brown
DRV-101/DRV-102 IC (available in a 7-lead TO220 package). Both are
available from DigiKey.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most ICE Zambonis drive a hydraulic pump from the ICE engine and then use the
pressure to drive the wheels. While the electric ones use seperate motors
to power the wheels and the hydraulics.......
Bill
Quoting Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
> > One thing about hydaulics - assuming no leaks, the drive system is locked
> > and won't move unless you release the flow by opening a valve.
>
> It depends on your "plumbing". If there is just a pump on an electric
> motor and hydraulic motor in the wheel, then pushing the car just makes
> the electric motor turn, just like they were connected with gears.
>
> But if there are values for hydraulic reversing, or an accumulator, or
> check valves, or other sophistications; the vehicle could freewheel, or
> be locked, just about anything else the designer may want to happen.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Probably not the DRV-10x directly with less than 3A of capability. It
wouldn't be a particularly good gate driver, either. Interesting part
though.
I built a PWM circuit for my car's fan with a UC3525 and a MOSFET. The
UC3525 can drive the gate directly. It still works flawlessly, despite
being unsealed under the hood (ICE). Don't forget the flyback diode.
I think the first thing to figure out is how the dashboard signals a
speed change. Are there discrete settings? Is the output analog or
digital? My Buick has a variable voltage output from 0 to 10V.
- Arthur
On Mon, 2007-01-08 at 11:21 -0800, Roger Stockton wrote:
> Michaela Merz wrote:
>
> > I was wondering if there might be a way to have a PWM circuit
> > to reduce load, giving me the opportunity to turn the fan lower.
> >
> > Any help or idea is appreciated.
>
> If you don't decide to just get a factory control unit from a wrecker,
> etc., you could put a simple circuit together based on the TI/Burr Brown
> DRV-101/DRV-102 IC (available in a 7-lead TO220 package). Both are
> available from DigiKey.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
An EV friend of ours turned us on to the show, and since we don't have
cable/dish (teenagers in the house!), we watched it at another friend's
house. Anyway, this EV buddy of ours has an Earthship house that is off the
grid and he and his wife have EV/biodiesel buggies. And like Ed's wife in
the show, his wife also "tolerates" his behavior! I loved the show and
thought it was a hoot, but my wife didn't like it because it was too much
like reality for her (she is also very tolerant of her husband's insanity)!
Suck Amps,
BB
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 05:05:28 -0800 (PST)
>From: "Mark E. Hanson"
>
>Hi,
>
> I stumbled into a 10pm show on HGTV Sunday night entitled 'Living With
>Ed". It depicted his renewable energy life and his EV he drives daily
>with about 8kw photovoltaics on the roof for charging. He noted that by
>cleaning the panels 3 times a year, output improves by up to 20% (from
>when they're dirty). It was a great show but not sure if it's going to be
>a series or a one time thing. The show played up his dingbat clueless
>complaining wife (which may have been done for contrasting personalities
>"viewer interest") although it's similar to my home and my renewable
>energy friends. The wives are more interested in esthetics rather than
>functionality. I'll have to put up more photovoltaic panels to keep up
>with him.
>
> Best Regards,
> Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce wrote:
How many watts does this pot need to be rated for?
It depends on the relay. You need to know the DC resistance of the relay
coil, and what voltage it needs to pull in. From this and your pack
voltage, you can determine what the wattage of the pot (or resistor)
needs to be.
For example, suppose your relay measures 1k ohms and needs 25 volts to
pull in. Thus it needs I = 25v / 1000 = 25ma to pull in. If your pack is
144v, then the series resistor needs to be R = (144v-25v) / 0.025a =
4760 ohms.
So use a 5k pot. Its wattage needs to be P = (144v-25v) x 0.025a = 2.975
watts; so use a 5 watt pot.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was trying to find components to one customer of mine and kinda let it
go. Some items just ain't there yet..
Until few days ago I got some very nice news about one AC-motor setup
from OEM.
motor: ~70kw, 11000 rpm, 230 Nm, 110 lbs, 95% eff (size: ~10" diameter,
~9" long)
+
reduction gear ~8:1
+
controller for the setup (~100kW)
+
20 kWh Lion (LiMn2o4) pack with all required (Charger 3kW)
(I'm being a bit vague with the details now. for purpose.)
Would total about 15000 USD.
All cables and harnesses to install it to car or what ever.
And price can even drop down a bit in real volumes. Currently it looks I
would need to buy about 1000 sets of these to get to these prices.
Since list has been buying stuff in groups could there ever be demand up
to these numbers. To me it sounds nearly impossible.
I can get many Donor Smarts (originals) for 4000 USD thou 70 kw would be
murder in it...
-Jukka
p.s.- Most of this stuff seems to be designed for hybrids and fool
cells... hmmm..all that money might not been wasted after all..
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's not surprising, David, since GM has been involved in killing
electric transportation since the 40's. (Anything for a profit.)
> On 7 Jan 2007 at 18:18, Matthew Milliron wrote:
>
>> I plan to buy an OEM electric car as soon as one is available.
>
> I said that in 1967. I'm still waiting.
>
> In 1978 GM said my wait would be over in 1980, because then I could buy an
> electric Chevette. I'm still waiting.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hello,
price is still on the high 550$/kwh
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Sourcing Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd batteries
> On 8 Jan 2007 at 18:34, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
>
> > And do you happen to know where I might get a price quote on those?
>
> Sorry, I don't have a European Saft contact, just a person here in the
> States.
>
> However, we have some European members of this list, and some of them may
> know. Philippe Borges? Perhaps you could help?
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
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> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
> the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Arthur W. Matteson wrote:
> Probably not the DRV-10x directly with less than 3A of capability.
> It wouldn't be a particularly good gate driver, either.
Of course; one would use the DRV-10x to drive an appropriately rated
MOSFET or BJT. It may not be a great gate driver, but it works just
fine (I use them as the basis for the economisers for my Kilovac
contactors).
The attraction of the DRV-10x part is that it requires far fewer
external components to be up and running (as little as one resistor and
one cap).
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Dave ,,, I tried one of these schumacher smart chargers on 120 dc and found
it worked,,, so if you pack voltage is around 120 you could run it right off
the praction pack ...
>
> From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2007/01/06 Sat AM 11:21:11 EST
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Charger Interlock/Contactor/DC COnv Question
>
> Roland, and everyone;
>
> I'm trying do the same thing, and I have some wiring questions. I'm charging
> off 220 and I believe
> I can run the Schumacher off just one leg. This will keep the house battery
> fresh any time the car
> is plugged in. The other wrinkle is that I want to be able to run the PFC-30
> off 110 or 220.
>
> I have a NEMA 14-30 4 prong twist lock connector in the car. Normally I just
> plug in the big
> extension cord from my 220 outlet. But I also want to make a short adapter
> cord so I can plug the
> car into 110 for opportunity charging.
>
> So how do I wire the 110 Schumacher charger to the 4 wires (2 hot, one
> neutral, one ground) inside
> the car? Just use one hot leg and the neutral?
>
> How do I make the adapter that will go between a 110 extension cord on one
> end and the 14-30 4
> prong receptacle on the car side? Will I be able to keep the Schumacher
> connected? Am I asking for
> too much? It is probably simple for some of you, but not obvious to me.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim,
Thanks for your note.
I came to the same conclusion that you did, but I didn't want to put
words in your mouth.
Thanks again,
Mike
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Help with Brushes / Motor Again
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 10:37:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Hey Micheal
It does not appear from the pics that an H-100 brush
grade was used. This brush looks very black and
carbony to me instead of the grey H-100 grade.
The one pic shows signs of at least one metal holder
taking some heat due to the brushes wearing down and
the resulting arcing. Unfurtunantly there are not a
lot of H-100 brush grades produced for these GE's, and
the ones available are pretty spendy. It's the down
side to owning a GE motor. I'm also wondering if you
might know if the motor is advanced or not?
I don't want to get myself in trouble here but It's my
opinion you got taken for a ride.
An H-100 brush is grey and considered to be a hard
brush (even though you can scratch it with your finger
nail). A carbon brush is black and considerd a soft
grade and you can not scratch it with your nail (go
figuer, lol).
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- "Michael A. Radtke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Hello,
>
> A short history:
>
> 2 Years after buying my ElectraVan, the motor
> brushes failed. I
> repaired the damage myself and drove for another 2
> years before the
> brushes failed again. Then, I sought the advice of
> this list and was
> told that H100 was the correct brush grade and the
> wrong brush grade was
> probably the cause of my problems. Since I didn't
> know what the
> original nor first replacement grade was, the advice
> seemed to make
> sense.
>
> This time around, I took the motor to a local,
> recommended, motor
> rebuilder since the commutator was damaged and I was
> frustrated. I
> asked him to suggest a brush grade, and he agreed
> with H100. Now, 9
> months later, the brushes are worn out and the
> commutator damaged beyond
> what it was before. So, I have some questions:
>
> 1) Can I tell if H100 was used. Pictures are at:
>
> http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/brushes.jpg
> http://wa7zpu.cisaz.com/motor/commutator.jpg
>
> 2) What next?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
I'm getting the feeling that my 10mph scooter won't be competitive. Guess
you don't get much for free these days. OK. Guess I just need to double
the voltage and ice down the motor.
Darin
----- Original Message -----
From: "ProEV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Beach ScooterCross
Hi Darin,
Looking for that competitive edge<G>?
I have not seen the area we have for the autocross and ScooterCross yet,
but I think our layout design philosophy is to make the course an adequate
representation of the kind of challenges a scooter would normally face in
day to day use.
You can expect to see at least one slalom (for weaving between those pesky
pedestrians), lots of turns, a good straight and a hard brake zone. I do
not think we will have any curbs to hop or any planned off road section.
To simulate Florida traffic challenges, I have been pushing for having a
Hummer driven by a person on a cell phone randomly crossing the course but
the event insurance people are being sticky.
Hope this helps.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
Battery Beach Organizers,
What is the rough layout and speed of the ScooterCross
course? I'm just building up a scooter right now, and a few
course details would help me with what mods are needed.
Thanks,
Darin Gilbert
BadFishRacing
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--- Begin Message ---
Michael offered:
> That's not surprising, David, since GM has been involved in killing
> electric transportation since the 40's. (Anything for a profit.)
I know I've said this before, but...
GM's killing of electrics goes back even 2 decades further.
In Feb. 1923, GM purchased the Milburn Wagon Works, which had been for 8
years building the Milburn Light Electric line of vehicles (over 5000 EVs
produced) and had built carriages since the mid 1800's. Milburn had been
building building car bodies for GM prior to the purchase. Within 2 months,
GM converted the main plant to a Buick manufacturing plant, then sold off
the remains of Milburn Light Electric to a local investor who supposedly,
maybe, kept producing Milburns at another Toledo plant...but there are no
Milburns known to have been produced in 1924, so effectively, GM killed the
Milburn Light Electric in 1923.
-Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The official website of Peugeot Motor Company www.peugeot
Try them in France for NiCd- I am buying a Think and the OEM pack was
sourced from them in France as it could not be in Norway- you may
call Think in Norway and ask them as well.
M
On Jan 8, 2007, at 11:04 AM, David Roden wrote:
On 8 Jan 2007 at 18:34, Markus Wachsmuth wrote:
And do you happen to know where I might get a price quote on those?
Sorry, I don't have a European Saft contact, just a person here in the
States.
However, we have some European members of this list, and some of
them may
know. Philippe Borges? Perhaps you could help?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Well, if I can get all the cells into my car that I plan, I'll be way over 120
volts. I'm at 144
volts right now. But I appreciate the thought. I think I can get 500 watts from
my pack to
supplement the 12v house battery while driving the car (through a dc-dc). And
I'll have the
Schumacher topping it off when the car is plugged in. Depending on how much of
a load I put on the
12v system, I hope to keep the battery happy with this approach. We'll have to
wait and see how
much the battery goes up and down. Has anyone used a high amphour battery (like
a yellow top) for
the house battery?
Cor, your explanation finally got through to me. When charging off 110, the
Schumacher and the PFC
will be wired in series, so neither will have full current. Yes? If so that's
ok, it will only be
for opportunity charging. The Schumacher is only rated for 1.5 amps. Most of
the time I'll be
charging off 220. And I hope not to need to crank the PFC way up.
Roland, I may not need to to get as fancy as your configuration, but I'll
probably wire in the end
of an extension cord and then plug the Schumacher into that. Keep it as modular
as possible.
The pieces are falling into place. Thanks to global warming, (or GW, or el
Nino) I've been able to
work on the car well into the winter. Normally it would have been in the 20's
in the garage. We've
already had 30 days in a row of above average temperatures. It was in the 60's
two days ago.
Thanks for the help,
Dave Cover
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi Dave ,,, I tried one of these schumacher smart chargers on 120 dc and
> found it worked,,, so
> if you pack voltage is around 120 you could run it right off the praction
> pack ...
> >
> > From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: 2007/01/06 Sat AM 11:21:11 EST
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Charger Interlock/Contactor/DC COnv Question
> >
> > Roland, and everyone;
> >
> > I'm trying do the same thing, and I have some wiring questions. I'm
> > charging off 220 and I
> believe
> > I can run the Schumacher off just one leg. This will keep the house battery
> > fresh any time the
> car
> > is plugged in. The other wrinkle is that I want to be able to run the
> > PFC-30 off 110 or 220.
> >
> > I have a NEMA 14-30 4 prong twist lock connector in the car. Normally I
> > just plug in the big
> > extension cord from my 220 outlet. But I also want to make a short adapter
> > cord so I can plug
> the
> > car into 110 for opportunity charging.
> >
> > So how do I wire the 110 Schumacher charger to the 4 wires (2 hot, one
> > neutral, one ground)
> inside
> > the car? Just use one hot leg and the neutral?
> >
> > How do I make the adapter that will go between a 110 extension cord on one
> > end and the 14-30 4
> > prong receptacle on the car side? Will I be able to keep the Schumacher
> > connected? Am I asking
> for
> > too much? It is probably simple for some of you, but not obvious to me.
> >
> > Thanks for the help.
> >
> >
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello, I think there is real scope for developement with a line up
like this, I would be interestedin building custom conversions if I
could secure hardware at this price.
Of course, availability at this price is the problem in small
numbers, but still, please keep me in mind if there are any future
developements [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jukka Järvinen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I was trying to find components to one customer of mine and kinda
let it
> go. Some items just ain't there yet..
>
> Until few days ago I got some very nice news about one AC-motor
setup
> from OEM.
>
> motor: ~70kw, 11000 rpm, 230 Nm, 110 lbs, 95% eff (size: ~10"
diameter,
> ~9" long)
> +
> reduction gear ~8:1
> +
> controller for the setup (~100kW)
> +
> 20 kWh Lion (LiMn2o4) pack with all required (Charger 3kW)
>
> (I'm being a bit vague with the details now. for purpose.)
>
> Would total about 15000 USD.
>
> All cables and harnesses to install it to car or what ever.
>
> And price can even drop down a bit in real volumes. Currently it
looks I
> would need to buy about 1000 sets of these to get to these prices.
>
> Since list has been buying stuff in groups could there ever be
demand up
> to these numbers. To me it sounds nearly impossible.
>
> I can get many Donor Smarts (originals) for 4000 USD thou 70 kw
would be
> murder in it...
>
> -Jukka
>
> p.s.- Most of this stuff seems to be designed for hybrids and fool
> cells... hmmm..all that money might not been wasted after all..
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When I voted it said "1006 valid votes" or some such statement,
indicating that they were not counting people repeatedly voting (as far
as they can tell)
--
Martin K
Roderick Wilde wrote:
That doesn't say much for their web masters does it! You would think
they could afford better.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jukka Järvinen"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Chevy VOLT
Did you notice you can vote as many timeas as you wish ? :) Let's
make BEV's popular and very interesting thing.
-Jukka
Mike Willmon kirjoitti:
Cor,
I followed up my e-mail with the reply below. It just hasn't made
it yet. I suspect if they don't want to build them they will
continue with the "batteries are not there yet" excuse; no matter
what their poll says. It is public however so this bodes well
for the message. However I kinda think they can't afford to miss
the boat this time. But I still don't think they care about an
oil free or pollution free interest.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Willmon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 12:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Chevy VOLT
I stand corrected, they do show the results.
I voted Yes and Yes BTW...weelll I would consider it.
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--- Begin Message ---
Up until recently December of 2006, Ken Trough was affiliated with the
work-group that was responsible for moving the idea forward. Mr. Trough
tendered his resignation after admitting to financial and ethical misconduct on
his part.
The matter was turned over to the Bellingham Police Department for
investigation.
http://visforvoltage.net/forum-topic/general/238-thats-eilean-g2#comment-863
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can someone please explain very simply the purpose of a precharge circuit
with a lightbulb in it to me. Also how can it be easily disconected so that
you wont blow up the bulbs? Do you have to use precharge circuit everytime
you fire you EV up?
_________________________________________________________________
Your Space. Your Friends. Your Stories. Share your world with Windows Live
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--- Begin Message ---
I was just wondering why some people say you need to have the circuit
breaker in your car on a certain side of the battery pack. Would it matter?
Can i use a circuit breaker on each side of my pack to disconnect it
completly while charging? Also how many contacters do i need and where in
the car?
_________________________________________________________________
Share your opinion and enter to win! Please complete this survey to enter
into a draw for a grand prize of $500 or one of twenty $50 cash prizes.
http://www.youthographyinsiders.com/R.aspx?a=116
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--- Begin Message ---
Been a while, but I believe the one I used on the escort was a 1W. Like Lee, I
just used something I already had. It doesn't take very much current to
actuate a relay coil.
David Brandt
----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, January 8, 2007 11:02:21 AM
Subject: Re: Precharge light bulb
How many watts does this pot need to be rated for?
_________________________________________
David Brandt wrote:
Another little trick is to use a pot instead of a fixed resistor. Turn it
up to maximum, where you are sure it is above the value required to close
the relay. Turn the car on and precharge. Then adjust the pot until the
relay closes. That's the value you need. This avoids having to experiement
too much while in close proximity to high voltage contacts - I knew
eventually I'd accidentaly touch one.
>
> For a 114V pack in my old escort, a 10K pot worked fine. I don't recall
what it was adjusted to.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- Begin Message ---
i was just looking at the thundersky website and they have a Li-ion battery
that is perfect an electric motorcycle i might build. It is a 3.2 volt 80 AH
battery. I was thinking of using 22 of these batteries in series to make
about 72 volts and 80 AH pack. They can dish out up to 400 amps. At 72 volts
this would equate to about 37 HP!. The pack would also only weigh 120
pounds. Not sure what range i would get with these, maybe about 30 miles
with these batteries driven conservativly. On there website it also said
that their batteries costed $0.16 per WH so this means 72volts*80AH=5760WH
5760WH*$0.16=$922. Is this right? thats awful cheap for that much
capacity... I was also planning on using a pmg 132 and altrax 72 volt 450
amp controller for the conversion. This thing should go pretty fast right?
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--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 7, 2007, at 1:30 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Paul G. wrote:
With the Curtis controllers you can shut them down by removing pack
plus from the ksi terminal with a relay that operates with the main
contactor. The controller still has near pack voltage on it (in my
case about 10 volts less with a 7.5 watt bulb on a 1221b), but is not
ON (won't try to move the vehicle.)
True enough; but the capacitors remain charged and the MOSFETs have to
withstand whatever voltage is applied. This will reduce their life,
and may cause failures if the charger lets the voltage get too high.
But isn't everyone using the Curtis controller with a precharge circuit
and without a start delay doing this? I figure the caps in mine must
have around 4 years with voltage on them (8 summers, I remove the bulb
in the winter or other extended dormant time and for any equalizing
charge.) The controller was used when I got it. The extra one on my
shelf has remained there.
What kind of life would a 180 volt electrolytic cap sitting cool
(vehicle not running) with a 130 volt charge on it have?
The voltage rating on a light bulb is its recommended operating
voltage; not its peak or short-term rating. In my 132v EV, the 75w
130v bulb hardly has time to begin to light -- you see a brief, dim
flash and the controller is precharged. I've had the same light bulb
after 8 years.
I agree. I guess this is the difference between your choice of a 75
watt bulb compared to my 7.5 watt bulb. My little bulb remains quite
bright for seconds. It takes at least 15 seconds to get down to its
really dim 10 volt point.
Paul
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
Paul
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
Paul
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
--- End Message ---
