EV Digest 6288
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) precharge question
by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: chargers
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Clutchless Shifting Video
by "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: DCP 600 quirk question
by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: precharge question
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: PFC charger question
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: chargers
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: chargers
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: chargers
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: chargers
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) No politics on EVDL
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: chargers
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: speedometer problem
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: thundersky batteries
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: a way to lower aerodynamic drag
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: $500-million for battery R&D
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: [EV] RE: chargers
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: DCP 600 quirk question
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
by "Tom Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Raptor problrm
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
by "Tom Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: chargers
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) EAA Meeting
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know if i need a precharge circuit for a much smaller altrax
controller? Is it as big a deal as with larger sized controllers?
_________________________________________________________________
Your Space. Your Friends. Your Stories. Share your world with Windows Live
Spaces. http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=en-CA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
> do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you coukd use a 2:1
> transformer,
Or you could simply use a single diode instead of a full bridge. That way
you only rectify 1/2 the wave form and get 1/2 the voltage.
Of course power factor is truely awful, but nobody uses a bad boy if they
are worried about power factor.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is when the clutch and flywheel
are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all this with a 2 lb coupling
of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular momentum of the large diameter
clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb. This also eliminated the
vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch. Upshifts are at 25 mph from
1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph. Downshifts take a second, if you
rev the motor a little it falls right in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car description
If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
Jay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Im not sure about this as much as you, but it may be your potentiometer...
It may not be the right format for the controller. some controllers require
hal effect potentiometers of 0-5k or 5-0k check what you controller reqires.
If thats not it there may be something wrong with the pot itself it.
From: "Erik Bigelow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: ev <[email protected]>
Subject: DCP 600 quirk question
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 23:22:19 -0600
Hi all,
I've got a DCP Raptor 600 that I got used, and it has a curious
behavior that I was hoping someone could shed some light on. My car
has trouble waking up many mornings, and sometimes after it's daily
nap while sitting while I'm at work. When my car is acting grumpy it
seems like the usable range of the accelerator pedal is shifted, the
first inch doesn't do much, and the second inch of travel it acts
normal. After 3 or 4 minutes of driving it's back to normal, I can peg
the 400 amp meter in 2nd. Before that, 75 amps and 40 mph is all
flooring the pedal gets me.
I know it sounds like a mechanical problem, somehow the linkage
doesn't have a consistent connection and after a few pedal presses it
works itself out. But today I noticed two things: Listening to NPR
today, which has enough quiet time to hear static from the controller,
pressing very lightly on the pedal made static audible on the radio.
If the linkage was shifting around, it shouldn't make any noise when I
barely touch the pedal.
The real kicker came when I noticed the grumpiness melting away. When
I'm limited to 75 amps cruising in 2nd and 120 in 3rd, I spend the
whole time floored. While I was on a straightaway with the pedal
floored in 2nd, I watched the amps rise from 75 to 200 as I had the
pedal floored. After that the car was back to normal. My guess is that
this usually happens while I'm at a stoplight and I don't notice.
Any ideas? Start saving for a Zilla? Honestly this is the only thing
that's keeping my from putting one of the "Electric" emblems from the
EV Tradin Post on my car. Before it warms up the acceleration is
really pokey after 20 mph.
Thanks!
Erik in Austin
_________________________________________________________________
Share your opinion and enter to win! Please complete this survey to enter
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It may not be a big deal, but it's cheap insurance.
As Nike says, "just do it".
-MT, Portland, Or.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Tim Gamber
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: precharge question
>
>
> Does anyone know if i need a precharge circuit for a much smaller altrax
> controller? Is it as big a deal as with larger sized controllers?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Your Space. Your Friends. Your Stories. Share your world with
> Windows Live
> Spaces. http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=en-CA
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello John,
It is best to have a volt and amp meter monitoring the charging current so
you know where you are at. I made up a test unit that holds a auto volt and
amp meter with input and output leads. I use this unit to break in my motor
and to test smaller 12 volt motors.
First turn the voltage adjustment with a small screw driver all the way CCW
and also the current knob fully CCW.
Connect the charger up to the indicators and to the battery.
Turn on the circuit breaker.
Turn the current knob cw to any ampere you want. For a 30 amp charger, you
can go right up to 30 amps DC. On the AC side this will be about 26 amps.
Now start turning the voltage pot CW. For a 12 volt battery or two 6 volt
batteries in series, stop at about 14 volts. As the battery is charging
the voltage will rise. Watch the voltage indicator very closely so it does
not go over 15 volts.
When the voltage rises to a maximum setting you have set, a yellow LED will
flash and then a second later a blue LED will flash. The blue LED is the
time out, where the voltage will be maintain at the maximum volt and the
ampere starts to drop.
If you reach 15 volts and the yellow LED is not flashing then the voltage
pot is turn too much CW, so back of a little CWW until it flashes. This is
the setting for one 12 volt battery.
If the yellow LED starts to flash and you are not at 15 volts, then quickly
turn the voltage adjustment a little CW so the yellow LED goes off. The
voltage will then continue to rise. Keep on increasing in little increments
until you get to 15 volts at which time the Yellow LED will start flashing
and then the time out Blue LED will start flashing.
The blue Led will continue to flash will the ampere drops for a certain
amount of time you set. The timer setting at about the 3 O-Clock position
is about 30 minutes.
The ampere should drop to about 10 percent of the maximum ampere you set it
at. If you the ampere to 30 amps, then the current should drop to at or
less than 3 amps for a full charge battery.
If the charger turns off to early before you get to 10 percent of the
maximum ampere you set it at, then give the timer one click CW and try it
again after the battery is discharge to at least 70 percent.
Charging your 144 volt pack, the maximum equalization charge for flooded
batteries is about 15.4 volts per 12 volt battery or 184.8 volts for the
pack. The normal daily charge is about 14.8 volts per 12 volt or 177.6
volts.
After you complete your charging, always turn the ampere knob fully CCW and
then turn off the circuit breaker. Never turn on the charger with the
ampere knob turn up.
In charging you 144 battery pack for the first time:
Make sure the ampere adjustment is fully CCW before you turn on the circuit
breaker.
Turn on the circuit breaker.
Turn up the ampere adjustment to where you want it.
Now you will have to keep turning up the voltage adjustment from the 15 volt
setting until you get it to either to 177.5 V or 180 V
The voltage will rise fast until you get above the battery pack voltage and
it will then slowly increase at about 14 volts per 12 volt battery or about
168 volts.
Adjust the voltage pot in very small increments. The voltage rise may take
a long time, if the batteries are deeply discharge. If the batteries are in
about the 75 percent charge, the maximum voltage will be reach between 80 to
90 percent SOC when the yellow LED and blue LED comes on.
After fine tuning the time-out timer, so the batteries are 100 percent
charge when the charger shuts down, then you can just turn on the charger,
set the amperes and forget it.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 9:08 PM
Subject: PFC charger question
> I am getting ready to wire up my traction pack and figured I would test
> out my PFC-30 on an old 12 volt SLI battery before wrecking
> my traction pack.
>
> I've read the instructions and searched the archives for some info and
> found the email I have copied below to which I believe Rich responded,
> Correct.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:08 AM
> Subject: PFC20 Charging Questions
> My pack setup is 22 - 6 Volt flooded led acid. (Sam's Stowaway)
>
> 1. I'm doing an equalizing charge first, do I just turn the voltage
> limit
> up and monitor the batteries manually until they hit 7.5v per cell?
>
> Unfortunately while experimenting with the charger I turned the voltage
> pot a number of time in both directions, so I don't know where in its
> range it currently is. Since I am
> experimenting with a 12 volt battery can I turn the pot counter
> clockwise until it wont turn any more and then turn it one full
> rotation in the clockwise direction. Would this qualify as "turning the
> voltage limit up"?
>
> Then once I have the voltage pot set somewhere "up" what do I do with
> the current knob during this equalization charge?
>
> After I am comfortable with this process on my spare SLI should I
> connect my traction pack batteries (6 volt interstate flooded lead
> acid) in pairs and follow this same procedure before wiring up to the
> full 144 volt pack?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jay -
Thanks for posting that. For someone who hasn't experienced clutchless
(& flywheel-less) shifting in an EV before, it's as good an illustration
as possible about how it works.
Question: is there no sound to go along with the video? Or is that just
my computer... Would have been nice to also hear what's going on.
cheers-
Darin
---
Jay Caplan wrote:
Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is when the clutch and flywheel
are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all this with a 2 lb coupling
of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular momentum of the large diameter
clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb. This also eliminated the
vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch. Upshifts are at 25 mph from
1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph. Downshifts take a second, if you
rev the motor a little it falls right in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car description
If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
Jay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
mike golub wrote:
I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you coukd use a 2:1
transformer, probably one of those power converters
(240v to 120v ) would work since they are mass
produced.
If you only have 220v, you'll need a 3:1 or 4:1
transformer, which are not as common, and will cost
you lots more money.
You still need to have another coil for your bad boy,
so you might want to research the availability of
broken/used transformers from large industrial boxes
or welders, even microwave ovens.
Transformers are big and heavy; and kind of go against the principle of
a "bad boy" charger.
A better solution is to put a big inductor in series with the AC input
to the "bad boy". It only takes a few millihenries, which will be a
fist-sized inductor to charge a 72vdc pack from the 120vac line. This
inductor can in fact be a winding on an existing transformer. Use a
low-voltage winding with a sufficient current rating; for example, the
12vac 15amp secondary of a battery charger transformer.
Or, cut off the wire on a fist-sized transformer, and rewind it with a
single winding of a suitable wire size for the charging current you
want. You can control the inductance (and thus charging current) by
either tapping the winding to select the "right" number of turns. Or,
you can do it by taking the core apart and stacking all the "E" and "I"
laminations in separate halves, and putting a paper shim between them
(the thicker the shim, the lower the inductance).
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you could use a 2:1
transformer,
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Or you could simply use a single diode instead of a full bridge.
That way you only rectify 1/2 the wave form and get 1/2 the voltage.
No; this would just destroy the diode from excessive current! You need
*something* to absorb the instantaneous voltage difference between the
peak of the rectified AC line (about 160 volts) and the pack voltage
(say, 72 volts).
Your classic "bad boy" uses the resistance of your house AC wiring,
extension cord, and connectors as a resistor. But there is little chance
that all of it put together will total even 1 ohm. The voltage
difference is 160v - 72v = 88v, so with 1 ohm, your peak current is 88 amps!
A single diode has the same peak current as a fullwave bridge; but it
only flows at the peak of one half-cycle instead of both half-cycles.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Let's go back and see what Eduardo asked:
Can I charge 48 or 72V from 220V 10A?
So - a straight 'bad-boy' will not work.
THere is need for current limiting or voltage reduction
or both.
Current limiting can be done by an inductor (the fist-sized
coil that Lee described) or by using oil-filled capacitors,
see the recent discussion on the "ugly box" charger, where
the charge current of the capacitors in series with the
grid will be limited by the rise of the grid-voltage.
Voltage adaptation requires a transformer. 24 and 48V are
very common and even 36V (golf-cart) chargers may be
available for a song (almost free). Also check for Forklift
chargers (broken or used) if you want cheap.
Note that the definition of a bad boy is that *you* are the
controller of the charger, you need to baby-sit it to avoid
blowing up your batteries or charger.
One alternative is to have a separate charger on each
battery, but chargers for 8V are not very common...
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 1:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: chargers
I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you coukd use a 2:1
transformer, probably one of those power converters
(240v to 120v ) would work since they are mass
produced.
If you only have 220v, you'll need a 3:1 or 4:1
transformer, which are not as common, and will cost
you lots more money.
You still need to have another coil for your bad boy,
so you might want to research the availability of
broken/used transformers from large industrial boxes
or welders, even microwave ovens.
Michael Golub
--- Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have only one design item missing from my future
> EV: the charger.
>
> I plan on using 48 or 72V in 8volt Trojan Floodeds.
> I can live with a
> 'badboy' or 'uglybox' type of home made charger. I
> have 220/10amp to
> hookup to always (no 110volt in Chile and 220/16amp
> are scarse)
>
> What would you recomend? I was hoping I could build
> my own and make
> it at least semi-automatic.
>
> thanks,
>
>
> --
> Eduardo K. |
> http://www.carfun.cl | I'm white and nerdy
> http://e.nn.cl | Weird Al
> |
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shoot, blame it on being tired. I was thinking of a half bridge and even
then I got it wrong.
I knew there was a reason I was using a autotransformer on my bike's
oportunity charger.
>>> I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
>>> do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you could use a 2:1
>>> transformer,
>
> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>> Or you could simply use a single diode instead of a full bridge.
>> That way you only rectify 1/2 the wave form and get 1/2 the voltage.
>
> No; this would just destroy the diode from excessive current! You need
> *something* to absorb the instantaneous voltage difference between the
> peak of the rectified AC line (about 160 volts) and the pack voltage
> (say, 72 volts).
>
> Your classic "bad boy" uses the resistance of your house AC wiring,
> extension cord, and connectors as a resistor. But there is little chance
> that all of it put together will total even 1 ohm. The voltage
> difference is 160v - 72v = 88v, so with 1 ohm, your peak current is 88
> amps!
>
> A single diode has the same peak current as a fullwave bridge; but it
> only flows at the peak of one half-cycle instead of both half-cycles.
>
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just a reminder to all that *any* mention of partisan politics is strongly
discouraged on the EVDL. Please don't mention politicians by name in any
way that could be considered judgemental - either laudatory or critical.
If someone else does so, please disregard it, and don't respond with either
an attack or a defense. I ordinarily contact those who do let one slip by
private email and ask them to refrain, so you don't need to do so on the
list (and it will only cause more problems).
Thanks for helping to keep the list flame-free. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yup, that works as a good 'bad boy'.
(autotransformer is a tap on a *single* winding,
it has no isolation that comes with a transformer
that has primary and secondary windings)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: chargers
Shoot, blame it on being tired. I was thinking of a half bridge and even
then I got it wrong.
I knew there was a reason I was using a autotransformer on my bike's
oportunity charger.
>>> I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
>>> do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you could use a 2:1
>>> transformer,
>
> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>> Or you could simply use a single diode instead of a full bridge.
>> That way you only rectify 1/2 the wave form and get 1/2 the voltage.
>
> No; this would just destroy the diode from excessive current! You need
> *something* to absorb the instantaneous voltage difference between the
> peak of the rectified AC line (about 160 volts) and the pack voltage
> (say, 72 volts).
>
> Your classic "bad boy" uses the resistance of your house AC wiring,
> extension cord, and connectors as a resistor. But there is little chance
> that all of it put together will total even 1 ohm. The voltage
> difference is 160v - 72v = 88v, so with 1 ohm, your peak current is 88
> amps!
>
> A single diode has the same peak current as a fullwave bridge; but it
> only flows at the peak of one half-cycle instead of both half-cycles.
>
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Doug,
Check the manual again. Pin 7 on the AMC-325's DB25 is the motor speed
output (ref. pin 1). The output is 0.25 volts per 1000 rpm. Since the
Force has a single speed transaxle, you can calibrate a simple voltmeter to
read the roadspeed. The inverter's internal impedance at pin 7 is 1000
ohms.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Lithium battery business with larger cells sizes if forming to
actual business. It has been for a long time something else. Including
after sales services.
Also.. the differences in culture have been a major issue.
All you said about the reputation, John... is regrettably very true. I
agree.
-Jukka
John G. Lussmyer kirjoitti:
At 07:27 PM 1/8/2007, Jukka Järvinen wrote:
You can get power and cycles out of them. For onetime conversion I
would suggest to go for Li-Mn (LMP-cells). Those have better voltage
and you need only 20 cells. 80 AH cell is there too. Those cells have
less material cost than LFP or LCP.
LMP-30 cells can push 325 A and stay above 2.5 V . For longer lifetime
you should stay below 5-6 C .
So, are there any prices available on these?
-Jukka
p.s.-Really.. the group buy was lifetime ago. It's a completely new
situation now. There is lot's of succesfull implementation too. Bad
news just are faster then good ones.
And Exceptionally BAD service experiences will stay with a companies
reputation for YEARS.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 09 Jan 2007 21:17:53 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>These also sound like vortex generators.
>
>http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate/about_us/technology/review/e/pdf/2004/16E_03.pdf
>
>They are also used to clean up airflow around the wings of small
>airplanes.
>
>http://www.microaero.com/
>
>
found another place for vortek generators.
http://www.vortekz.com/
Robert Matthew Milliron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know just the place they can "invest" their 500 M ...
:)
-Jukka
Dale Ulan kirjoitti:
Tesla? T-zero? All they guys here on the list using Lithium (or NiMH for
that matter)? $500,000,000? 2010? Prius? Insight? Huh? Seems as though a lot
of R+D is in progress already....
Seems to me as though this is setting Toyota up (or maybe Honda or Mercedes)
to come out with the same thing in 2007.5 or 2008 (not 2010), without US
government assistance... or am I cynical?
-Dale
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, Jan 09, 2007 at 11:36:25PM -0800, Cor van de Water wrote:
> Let's go back and see what Eduardo asked:
>
> Can I charge 48 or 72V from 220V 10A?
>
> So - a straight 'bad-boy' will not work.
> THere is need for current limiting or voltage reduction
> or both.
I can get medium sized (15 amp) 220 to 110 autotransformers
easily (we use them a lot for grey market US appliances)
Would that make my charger easer to build?
I have not ordered batteries yet and can switch to 12 volts SCS200s
if that makes it cheaper to charge. I can buy the whole set of batteries
for the price of the charger!
--
Eduardo K. | Some say it's forgive and forget.
http://www.carfun.cl | I say forget about forgiving just accept.
http://e.nn.cl | And get the hell out of town.
| Minnie Driver, Grosse Point Blank
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Erik, I have two theories.
1) Have you done the throttle calibration? You
disconnect the motor, and adjust a pot on the
controller. I can send you a copy of the manual if
you give me your fax number. The bottom line is that
the controller response will evenly match the travel
of your accelerator, so that max throttle makes a
yellow idiot light come on.
2) Granted Raptor 600s use the inductive throttle,
but just curious: are you using a potbox? If so,
perhaps your potbox has been worn so significantly
that you're getting erratic values.
Next would be to send it in to Peter Senkowski,
manufacturer 707.350.0156, and either have him check
it out, or give you an upgrade to a Raptor 1200.
Hope that helps,
--- Erik Bigelow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've got a DCP Raptor 600 that I got used, and it
> has a curious
> behavior that I was hoping someone could shed some
> light on. My car
> has trouble waking up many mornings, and sometimes
> after it's daily
> nap while sitting while I'm at work. When my car is
> acting grumpy it
> seems like the usable range of the accelerator pedal
> is shifted, the
> first inch doesn't do much, and the second inch of
> travel it acts
> normal. After 3 or 4 minutes of driving it's back to
> normal, I can peg
> the 400 amp meter in 2nd. Before that, 75 amps and
> 40 mph is all
> flooring the pedal gets me.
>
> I know it sounds like a mechanical problem, somehow
> the linkage
> doesn't have a consistent connection and after a few
> pedal presses it
> works itself out. But today I noticed two things:
> Listening to NPR
> today, which has enough quiet time to hear static
> from the controller,
> pressing very lightly on the pedal made static
> audible on the radio.
> If the linkage was shifting around, it shouldn't
> make any noise when I
> barely touch the pedal.
>
> The real kicker came when I noticed the grumpiness
> melting away. When
> I'm limited to 75 amps cruising in 2nd and 120 in
> 3rd, I spend the
> whole time floored. While I was on a straightaway
> with the pedal
> floored in 2nd, I watched the amps rise from 75 to
> 200 as I had the
> pedal floored. After that the car was back to
> normal. My guess is that
> this usually happens while I'm at a stoplight and I
> don't notice.
>
> Any ideas? Start saving for a Zilla? Honestly this
> is the only thing
> that's keeping my from putting one of the "Electric"
> emblems from the
> EV Tradin Post on my car. Before it warms up the
> acceleration is
> really pokey after 20 mph.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Erik in Austin
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree with you Jay. I find no need for my clutch at all. All shifts are
smooth and effortless. It would be a little slow for racing but not
everybody races. I just drive mine back and forth to work every day about
7,000 miles per year.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: Clutchless Shifting Video
Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is when the clutch and
flywheel
are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all this with a 2 lb
coupling
of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular momentum of the large diameter
clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb. This also eliminated the
vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch. Upshifts are at 25 mph
from
1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph. Downshifts take a second, if you
rev the motor a little it falls right in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car description
If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
Jay
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 - Release Date: 1/9/2007
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For any and all Raptor problems call Peter Senkowski 707-350-0156 Email is
nosmokin at earthlink.net but you will fight with spam protction. He seems to
prefer the phone.
"Erik Bigelow" sez:
Hi all,
I've got a DCP Raptor 600 that I got used, and it has a curious
behavior that I was hoping someone could shed some light on.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is there anywhere to find clutchless adaptors or are they custom made? I'm
trying to get my truck back on the road so my wife can drive it until we get a
FreedomEV and this would be perfect as she only needs to drive it a mile or two
but needs to shift once.
With the flywheel and all it takes way to long to shift since the clutch is
ruined.
----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Carpenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:03:54 AM
Subject: Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
I agree with you Jay. I find no need for my clutch at all. All shifts are
smooth and effortless. It would be a little slow for racing but not
everybody races. I just drive mine back and forth to work every day about
7,000 miles per year.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: Clutchless Shifting Video
> Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is when the clutch and
> flywheel
> are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all this with a 2 lb
> coupling
> of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular momentum of the large diameter
> clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb. This also eliminated the
> vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
>
> The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch. Upshifts are at 25 mph
> from
> 1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph. Downshifts take a second, if you
> rev the motor a little it falls right in.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car description
>
> If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
> Jay
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 - Release Date: 1/9/2007
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
I got mine from Bob Batson at EV-America out of New Hampture.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
Is there anywhere to find clutchless adaptors or are they custom made? I'm
trying to get my truck back on the road so my wife can drive it until we
get a FreedomEV and this would be perfect as she only needs to drive it a
mile or two but needs to shift once.
With the flywheel and all it takes way to long to shift since the clutch
is ruined.
----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Carpenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:03:54 AM
Subject: Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
I agree with you Jay. I find no need for my clutch at all. All shifts
are
smooth and effortless. It would be a little slow for racing but not
everybody races. I just drive mine back and forth to work every day about
7,000 miles per year.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: Clutchless Shifting Video
Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is when the clutch and
flywheel
are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all this with a 2 lb
coupling
of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular momentum of the large
diameter
clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb. This also eliminated the
vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch. Upshifts are at 25 mph
from
1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph. Downshifts take a second, if you
rev the motor a little it falls right in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car description
If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
Jay
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 - Release Date: 1/9/2007
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 - Release Date: 1/9/2007
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I forgot to mention another cheesy idea for dropping voltage. I got this
idea from the power supply section of a computer I bought almost 30 years
ago.
Basically you just run your DC output through a bunch of rectifier diodes,
each one drops approx 0.6V
Like I said, it's kinda cheesy and wasteful, but it works like a champ. I
got a really good deal on some bridge rectifier modules, so I just used
those. Each one has two diode voltage drops in series that you can use,
so 5 of them will drop the voltage ~6V
> Yup, that works as a good 'bad boy'.
> (autotransformer is a tap on a *single* winding,
> it has no isolation that comes with a transformer
> that has primary and secondary windings)
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:15 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: chargers
>
>
> Shoot, blame it on being tired. I was thinking of a half bridge and even
> then I got it wrong.
>
> I knew there was a reason I was using a autotransformer on my bike's
> oportunity charger.
>
>>>> I was thinking if you had 120v ac mains and needed to
>>>> do a bad boy to charge 60-72volts, you could use a 2:1
>>>> transformer,
>>
>> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>>> Or you could simply use a single diode instead of a full bridge.
>>> That way you only rectify 1/2 the wave form and get 1/2 the voltage.
>>
>> No; this would just destroy the diode from excessive current! You need
>> *something* to absorb the instantaneous voltage difference between the
>> peak of the rectified AC line (about 160 volts) and the pack voltage
>> (say, 72 volts).
>>
>> Your classic "bad boy" uses the resistance of your house AC wiring,
>> extension cord, and connectors as a resistor. But there is little chance
>> that all of it put together will total even 1 ohm. The voltage
>> difference is 160v - 72v = 88v, so with 1 ohm, your peak current is 88
>> amps!
>>
>> A single diode has the same peak current as a fullwave bridge; but it
>> only flows at the peak of one half-cycle instead of both half-cycles.
>>
>> --
>> Ring the bells that still can ring
>> Forget the perfect offering
>> There is a crack in everything
>> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>> --
>> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVerybody;
That time again; Second Sat of the month and time for the New England EAA to
get together. So if your in CT or nearby drop by. We get started at about 2 PM
sat, at my place in Killingworth CT. Hit me up for directions if ya need them?
Seeya?
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
www.lovejoy-inc.com was suggested by r Dr. Larry
Tillman in hooking up his 91 Metro
--- Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Is there anywhere to find clutchless adaptors or are
> they custom made? I'm trying to get my truck back on
> the road so my wife can drive it until we get a
> FreedomEV and this would be perfect as she only
> needs to drive it a mile or two but needs to shift
> once.
> With the flywheel and all it takes way to long to
> shift since the clutch is ruined.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Tom Carpenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:03:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Clutchless Shifting Video
>
>
> I agree with you Jay. I find no need for my clutch
> at all. All shifts are
> smooth and effortless. It would be a little slow
> for racing but not
> everybody races. I just drive mine back and forth
> to work every day about
> 7,000 miles per year.
>
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:28 AM
> Subject: Clutchless Shifting Video
>
>
> > Wanted to post my video of how easy shifting is
> when the clutch and
> > flywheel
> > are completely removed from my EV. We replaced all
> this with a 2 lb
> > coupling
> > of 2" diameter, eliminating all the angular
> momentum of the large diameter
> > clutch and flywheel which totalled about 22 lb.
> This also eliminated the
> > vibration problem with flywheel slightly warped.
> >
> > The car shifts very easily, there is no clutch.
> Upshifts are at 25 mph
> > from
> > 1st to 2nd, and then into 3rd at 50 mph.
> Downshifts take a second, if you
> > rev the motor a little it falls right in.
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4soxWBh91pA video
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/727 car
> description
> >
> > If you aren't racing, think about clutchless.
> > Jay
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 -
> Release Date: 1/9/2007
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
