EV Digest 6312
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) re:controller/motor match
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Spacy UFO Sounds for our EV's I LIKE I T !!
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Price, availability Re: Electric Rate Increase Effective January 1
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: KIS!! Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Shipper for TEVan?
by Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Funding a conversion
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Shipper for TEVan?
by Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: BBS?
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Rev Counter
by "Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: A little bit OT: Dashboard gauge needle / pointer
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: T105 vs. T125
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Spacy UFO Sounds for our EV's I LIKE I T !!
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) PV producers
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Selecting a DC/DC to Support and E-Meter/Link 10. Additional
questions
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: PWM Module for fan
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Battery Beach Burnout Attendees
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Shipper for TEVan?
by "Yee, Darryl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: PWM Module for fan
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Altairnano battery - group buy?
by "Stuart Friedrich and Wendy Lyn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) APUs vs multi-vehicles (was : BBS?)
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Carl,
Not recommending it, but I notice a G-19 on eBay, 180074987090.
jeff
Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Well I can't seem to find much info on the G-19 controller, so I wonder if I
would be better off ponying up for the alltrax which I know I could program.
Apparently the Yamaha G-Max could be programmed with a palm pilot, so I might
grab that one if I can find it refurbed. I think motor is a GE sepex so was
probably in Yamaha and Club Car carts.
Thanks,
Carl
>Hi Carl,
Most golf car motors referred to as "regen" are separately excited and require
a separately excited controller. I am not familiar with Yamaha controllers.
Curtis and Sevcon make controllers for separately excited motors. You will need
to program the controller to match the motor and application. I have done this
with a GE Club Car sep-ex motor and could help.
Jeff
>Are you sure about the "Regen" motor? All motors can do regen (more or
less) it's the controller the determines whether you get regen or not.
I don't think Yahmaha makes electric motors, but I could be wrong.
Is the motor series wound, PMDC, or AC?
> Hi List,
>
> I have a 48v regen motor from a 2000 Club Car golf cart and a YAMAHA 48
> VOLT G-19 controller. I am converting a motorcycle and would like to
> pair these but am wondering if anyone can tell me whether they will
> match well or I should wait to find a either a Club Car controller or a
> Yamaha motor to match the other.
>
> Thanks
>
> Carl
---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've had to do this and it does work as long as you turn off all the
electrical accessories. If you try to draw more current than the alternator
can put out, the engine dies. Generally will happen at idle. Had a battery
stolen out of an ICE while in college. Had to jump it to start it, then
drove it home without a battery so I could put in new cables and a new
battery. Went about 30 miles without a battery.
Dave
From: "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 06:53:21 -0800
No, you are incorrect - a vehicle will NOT run on the alternator alone;
been
there, hasn't worked!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Weisenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
> Incorrect- The Alternator provides all the power to an
> ICE electrical system. Once the Car is started it will
> run without a battery. The Alternator provide a
> recharge to the battery while providing power to run
> the rest of the Vehicle. The Voltage regulator provide
> the switch to recharge the battery and maintain it.
> However the battery is only used during the initial
> starting of the vehicle or when it is off. So to run a
> generator to power the ev it has to be big enough to
> power the EV and have enough over head to charge
> batteries which are to be disconnected during the
> charging.
>
> --- "Arthur W. Matteson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > On Mon, 2007-01-15 at 19:55 -0700, Roland Wiench
> > wrote:
> > > Hello Jurgen,
> > >
> > > You cannot charge a battery at the same time you
> > are using it. You cannot
> > > make electricity go both ways at the same time.
> >
> > Whaaa? Why? What does a normal automotive
> > alternator do? The
> > alternator charges, the headlights (etc.) discharge.
> > This setup works
> > well because the voltage is regulated at around
> > 14.4V, so the battery
> > won't overcharge. The batteries in this case would
> > act as an extension
> > of the controller's bus capacitors, in the situation
> > where the generator
> > puts out the same power that the car needs to move.
> >
> > So Jurgen, for this setup to work, the charger
> > should try to put out a
> > constant voltage and simply reduce that voltage to
> > keep the power within
> > the generator's limit if necessary. I think Rich
> > Rudman's PFC series
> > can do this. They will keep your generator's
> > electrical section cooler
> > as well (as opposed to a non-PFC charger), because
> > less current has to
> > flow in order to produce the same power - I can
> > detail this more if
> > necessary. PFC = Power Factor Correction.
> >
> > Your charger shouldn't really need to start going
> > until you've driven a
> > few miles, but if the voltage is well-regulated at
> > 14V maximum each
> > battery, then there shouldn't be a problem. I would
> > suggest trying to
> > maintain a 70-80% charge while driving in order to
> > reduce gassing. Just
> > try to copy what the ICE vehicles do, except reduce
> > your voltage just a
> > tad since you have the capacity to make a lot more
> > hydrogen gas. Do
> > make sure there is a venting system running at all
> > times, especially in
> > this case. By my definition, you'll certainly have
> > a plug-in hybrid
> > when you're done. The gas mileage may not be so hot
> > though.
> >
> > - Arthur
> >
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jurgen Schmidt"
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 7:19 PM
> > > Subject: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
> > >
> > >
> > > > I have a portable generator (Dewalt 4300, puts
> > out 15A at 240V) that I
> > > > would like to use as an emergency
> > extender/backup for my pickup EV I'm
> > > > designing. Ideally, I would just load the
> > generator in the bed and plug
> > > > in the on-board charger, when needed.
> > > >
> > > > Questions: Can a typical EV be charged while it
> > is driving? Does this
> > > > require a special charger, or any modifications
> > to the circuitry?
> > > >
> > > > I realize this will not be a true hybrid, or
> > plug-in hybrid, I just want
> > > > to be able to extend the range a little when
> > necessary.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Jurgen Schmidt
> > > > San Antonio, TX
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
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_________________________________________________________________
Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://davevscarl.spaces.live.com/?icid=T001MSN38C07001
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Jan 2007 at 19:33, Rod Hower wrote:
> Almost all modern
> controls switch at frequencies above audible for most
> humans, but I always enjoyed the Jetsons sound of the
> TEVan....
The film "Total Recall" (yes, the one with the CA governator) has EVs
providing transportation in the domed city where the action takes place.
Most of them are RQ Riley models, but the sound comes not from the models,
but from a Honda EV I used to own.
Many years ago, I bought my '74 Honda Civic already converted from a CA
owner, a member of EVAOSC. This is the story he told me, and I have no
doubt that it's accurate.
When Total Recall was being made, the producers contacted the club to find
someone whose electric car they could record, and they hooked up with the
Honda's (now long since former) owner.
One morning they brought an audio van to his house, set up, and recorded the
car from every possible perspective, inside and out. They chose the Honda
for the film over another EV they recorded. They said they rather liked the
more audible gear noise from the Honda's transmission.
Nobody objected to the PMC-25's 2kHz chopping rate, either. The car emitted
that tone very clearly any time it was in current limit, not just when
creeping around a parking lot. (As Mark Hanson points out, it was good for
warning animals away. ;-) The noise never bothered me, and apparently the
producers thought it was just as appropriate as the gear noise. The way
they accelerated (usually fast), typically the tone is audible for a second
or two, sometimes more.
So, rent Total Recall sometime. That's a real EV you hear. Several times,
the 2kHz tone is plainly audible when one of the cars accelerates.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Jan 2007 at 12:17, Michael wrote:
> Folks have reported 300wH for
> their 3000 lb+ EVs... but 2 people can deliver that power.
I think you are (and/or someone is) confusing Watts, Wh (Watt-hours), and
Wh/mile.
Sorry to say, this is a recurring problem here. We see people expressing
battery capacity in amps, current in amp-hours (or amp/hours, a meaningless
unit), and energy in Watts. Someone in this thread mentioned Watts per
hour, also a meaningless unit. I seem to remember one person mentioning amp-
hours per hour a while back. At least that makes mathematical sense. (Amp
hours per hour == average amperes.)
Some folks may be uninformed about the mathematics of power and energy
units, but I think in most cases it's just carelessness. Such carelessness
causes confusion for other list members. IMO, it also makes EVers look bad
when informed readers (engineers, etc.) run across our archives, but what do
I know?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Michaela, Lock and All,
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: KIS!! Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 09:22:39 -0600 (CST)
>I am with you Jerry. Though for "joe sixpack" or me ;) it
>is much easier to get a ready built genset and to hook it
>up.
That would be good if it worked well but rarely does.
My Geo-EV shunt motor is the best and a god scrounger could
get it done for under $500. Or have someone do one for you
for $1k-1.5k with good but used parts. Or get a new 20-25hp
industural engine and have the seller put on the shunt field
gen you supply them at about $2k/2.5k. They do gens, pumps
all the time.
There is another possibility, there are some larger
3ph gensets in the 15-25kw range that with a good H bridge
rectifier and some work with the motors speed controls to
match it to your pack voltage could be a viable on road
charger. Heavier, 10-15% less eff but a mostly stock
solution.
However, I am sure there would be a market for purpose
>built genset-/trailers and I would even consider to buy one
>from ACP IF they would still sell it.
Construction vehicle supply, rental companies sell,
rent, 3ph gens on trailers that can be modified as above.
Sooner or later I
>will have to buy another gas car to cover those trips
>necessary whenever the EV is not charged or whenever the
>distance is just too large. I would rather buy some
>range-extending equipment.
Luckily on mine I only need a rather small gen for
unlimited range. I thought it was important to design it in
to begin with. Having to have another gas vehicle when all
one needs is a rarely used generator instead.
>
>I have 15 Miles to work (95% on a highway). I usually
>charge at my work location. But my truck can do the trip
>both ways without charge (if I stay at about 55mph -
>60mph). That of course drains the batteries pretty bad and
>I wouldn't be able to use the EV for some time until the
>batteries are refreshed. On occasion, I have to drive back
>to work without the time to charge in between. So - I need
>a second car to cover those and similar situations.
>
>The idea of just hooking up a trailer to get juice is ..
>well, a nice dream :)
>
>mm.
>
>Jerry Dycus wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Joe and All,
>> The earlier posts are some of the worst
>> ways to do range extention.
>> The real way would be using a real DC gen driven by a
>> low polluting motor. This eliminates all the problems
>> below being both eff and powerful enough to do any trip.
>> For pick ups, a Geo 3cyl motor only
>> weighs 125lbs or so that directly coupled to a DC gen
>> like a Shunt field version of most any EV motor we use
>> puts out massive power without complaint safely and much
>> more eff at a lower cost than just a PFC charger needed
>> the other way. A reg AC gen is just not
>> going to do the job and likely to burn up.
>> Regulation is very easy, once the
>> battery pack hits a certain voltage like 14.5vdc/6cells
>> of batt, a limit circuit turns it off. If you need it
>> again, just hit the contactor to the battery pack and the
>> shunt motor/gen revs up, starting the gen ICE.
>> Done correctly can be a great addition
>> to an EV, maybe eliminating the need to keep an ICE too.
>> KIS,
>> Jerry Dycus
>>
>> ----- Original Message Follows -----
>> From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Subject: Re: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
>> Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 22:42:15 -0800
>>
>>>Yes, there are problems with using simple, unregulated
>>>chargers in a series hybrid:
>>>
>>>1) When you step on the accelerator to move the vehicle,
>>>the battery voltage goes down resulting in an unregulated
>>>charger putting too much load on the generator causing it
>>>to either overheat or lug down.
>>>
>>>2) When you lift off the accelerator, the battery voltage
>>>goes up, causing the charger to uncontrollably cut back
>>>on charge current sometimes overvoltage the controller or
>>>overspeed the genset.
>>>
>>>3) The poor power factor of the simple chargers limits
>>>the power out of the genset to about 60% to 80% of the
>>>engine power capability before the breakers open or the
>>>genset windings burn out.
>>>
>>>The PFC chargers were built to accommodate the genset
>>>charging a battery when it is in use:
>>>
>>>a) The current limit will prevent overcurrent conditions
>>>that would cause damage to the genset.
>>>b) The voltage limit will prevent overvoltage damage to
>>>the batteries and controller.
>>>c) The high power factor will allow pulling rated current
>>>from the genset without overheating or lugging either the
>>>engine or the generator. d) The charger will maintain a
>>>constant power from the genset regardless of battery
>>>voltage until the voltage limit is reached. e) The
>>>charger will work on a wide voltage range to cover 100 to
>>>250 VAC or VDC input.
>>>f) The charger will work on a wide frequency range to
>>>allow the engine to be variable speed.
>>>
>>>The last feature allows the designer to put a solenoid on
>>>the throttle to arbitrarily pull the engine back to idle
>>>to eliminate the annoying genset noise when stopped in
>>>traffic. I would probably connect it to a button or
>>>switch in the driver's compartment so he can choose to
>>>quiet it to be sensitive to his environment.
>>>
>>>Sheer Pullen drove his Acura from Seattle to Woodburn
>>>powered by a genset on a trailer. He had problems because
>>>1) the PFC-50 had not been invented yet, therefore he
>>>paralleled three PFC-20s to get enough power to push the
>>>car at freeway speeds, 2) his trailer was too high
>>>substantially increasing his wind resistance (traction
>>>power requirements), and 3) it was a very hot (~100F) day
>>>causing the chargers to cut back current when operated in
>>>the back seat area.
>>>
>>>If I were designing the system today, I would recommend:
>>>a) a very short trailer that gets the genset out of the
>>>wind, b) use a PFC-50B, and c) duct outside air to the
>>>charger for cooling.
>>>
>>>John Wayland did the Red Beastie run up the Columbia
>>>river using the ugly box charger. I don't recall the
>>>names of other people to run EVs from Seattle to Portland
>>>and back. Rich Rudman, John Wayland and Steve Lough
>>>should know several others who have done it and report on
>>>the lessons learned.
>>>
>>>Joe Smalley
>>>Rural Kitsap County WA
>>>Fiesta 48 volts
>>>NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
>>>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>To: <[email protected]>
>>>Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:18 AM
>>>Subject: RE: Charging while driving [JGS-EV]
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> >> Some folks have tried this in the past and destroyed
>>>> >> their controllers. I'm not sure why, but I wouldn't
>>>advise trying it until you can find out
>>>> >> what went wrong and how to avoid it.
>>>> >
>>>> > I think they forgot that when the let up on the
>>>> > accelerator, the generator will send all its power
>>>> > into the batteries. If they just start driving (or
>>>> > even before they start driving and fire up the
>>>> > generator just before taking off) the batteries
>>>> > cannot handle all the current while they are full and
>>>> > can go well beyond 15V per battery (I have seen AGM
>>>>batteries go above 16V with only 10A current)
>>>> That's why they run the generator through the charger.
>>>> The charger takes care of regulating the charging
>>>> current & voltage. As I recall, they suspected some
>>>> kind of high level voltage spikes coming from the
>>>>generator that somehow go through the charger.
>>>> I think John Wayland was one of the folks that tried
>>>> this and toasted something. I believe he was using one
>>>> of Rich's PFC chargers and one of Otmar's controllers,
>>>>but I'm not sure.
>>>
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Cor-- just call my local train? Sounds like a good idea, I
just don't know where to start.
Anyone with experience shipping by train? Is it likely to cost less?
Jerry
On Jan 16, 2007, at 9:43 PM, Cor van de Water wrote:
If you're not in a hurry you may have it loaded in a
(sea)container and loaded on a ship or train. Saves the gas
spent in transporting it by flatbed - good for the green image.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jerry McIntire
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Shipper for TEVan?
Hi, I'm a lurker and only occasionally post to the EVDL. But now I'm
finally getting back into an EV!
I bought a Dodge TEVan on the other coast and want to have it shipped
to me in Portland, Oregon. DAS wants to treat it as a specialty
vehicle and quoted me $2300!
I have found a $1600 quote, but would be glad to have a
recommendation of a reliable shipper to bring it from Maryland to
Oregon. Of course, if you happen to be driving that route with an
empty flatbed I'd be happy to pay you...
Jerry
503-866-0565
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is that legal? Usually these lotteries include a way to enter for free to stay
legal. (like promotions by Coke, McD's monopoly game, etc).
- Tony
Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Sell 200 lottery tickets at $100 each.
If conversion costs $10,000
including glider, then you can give away the first conversion with
enough left over for a second, which will probably be better than the
first
Haven't tried this myself. But folks do like to gamble, usually at much
worse odds.
tks
Lock
Toronto
human-electric hybrid.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brandon Kruger"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:18 PM
> Subject: Funding a conversion
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I'm hoping to start my conversion of my Dodge Shadow (
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1033) this summer. I've found all
> the
> > parts
> > I plan to use and totaled the prices. With my DC/PbA conversion,
> my
> > estimated cost is around $9000. Being a student, I do not have any
> way to
> > make this kind of money quickly or easily. So, I have been trying
> to
> > figure
> > out how to raise this money and I came to thinking of sponsorship.
> Would
> > it
> > be a good idea to go to my local power company and ask for them to
> fund
> > this
> > "educational project" of mine? Should I also try contacting
> Trojan,
> > Curtis,
> > ADC, etc.? Any advice for getting my car sponsored/paid for?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Brandon
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks John, I used to live in PT and hadn't heard of them. Will get
a quote.
Jerry
On Jan 17, 2007, at 7:19 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
At 05:14 AM 1/17/2007, Rod Hower wrote:
I think Nick Austin paid $950 to ship my TEVan to
Mountain View when he bought it. I assume the service
And I've had good luck with "Kiwi Karriers" out of Port Townsend, WA.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://
www.CasaDelGato.com
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--- Begin Message ---
> And no sooner do I finish off my wiki modification than I find this:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/en:Genset_trailer
>
30-35mpg with the trailer seems a good 5-10mpg less than one would get
in a straight ICE version of such a small sports car.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Revolution counter to ships captains, tachometer to automotive
technicians, repetitive event rate monitor and display unit to
scientists !
Trivial and available elsewhere, but very useful all the same.
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> So ... it's a tachometer?
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > Just want to mention this wee project I tried with great
success. Before
> > messing with motors and controllers it's handy to have a rev
counter to make
> > sure you keep the speed to a safe level. I downloaded the PIC
code for a neat
> > little setup from _www.josepino.com_
(http://www.josepino.com/) . I used the
> > second version, 0 - 9,999 rpm and used an infrared
transmitter/detector pair
> > to detect a white patch on my rotating motor output plate.
There's a bit of
> > flutter but only from my sensing device setup, the hardware and
code work as
> > well as any professional device I've used before.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Tried that already -- the shaft holes in the clock hands are much too
large, by a factor of 5 or 10. The meter shaft is .0235", and tapered.
The hole you need is essentially a pinhole.
Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
Hobby store- look for homemade clock hands. there are
a variety and they can be painted.
--- Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Found a solution to this. I bought a set of drill
bits that are #60 to
#80 (.04" to .0135") turns out that using a #76
(0.02") drill on a piece
of 1/8" thick plexiglas works pretty well. I
ground the material away
from the hole until it was a small disc 1/8" thick,
and 3/16" in
diameter. I then simply glued a pointer needle onto
the little piece.
Eric Poulsen wrote:
I have some snifty high-torque meter movements
(Beede Super Torque)
that I was going to use for speedo / amps /
whatever.
One thing that is proving really difficult to
locate are meter needles
that don't cost an arm and a leg. You know, the
little orange pointer
thing that moves on your speedometer?
I have found some fancy models for $50 and up, but
I'm just looking
for your basic el-cheapo pointer.
I know I can make my own easily enough, but it
seems this should be a
$1 item, if only I knew where to look.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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On 16 Jan 2007 at 13:33, Frank John wrote:
> Can anyone explain the advantage (if any) of using the 105's
> instead of the 125's?
Unless I'm remembering incorrectly - it's been a while since I worked the
math - the T105s, which are even more of a commodity than the T125s, offer
lower cost per mile for most applications.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Jan 2007 at 8:41, Bill Dennis wrote:
> Can you explain a little more why the alternator alone didn't won't work for
> you? What problems did you have?
Excuse me for interrupting, but please remember that this is a list for
>>ELECTRIC VEHICLES<<. Please discuss ICEVs in private email, not here on
the list.
Thanks for your understanding.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 1/17/07, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello Steven,
I haven't run this disc in my EV when it was in a car show back in 1985.
These sounds came from a sound synthesizer that is built into a Commodore
128D using Basic 7.0 language. The sounds are on 3.5 inch disk not PC
formated.
Ah, the venerable SID chip! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOS_Technology_SID
This was an interesting hybrid sound synthesis chip and yes, it was
very good for making sci-fi type noises.
There is suppose to be a interface system which can down load the 7.0
language into a PC, so I can transfers all my old files. Someday I might
get to this.
There are several ways. Once you have the files transferred, you will
also need a C64 emulator to run the software. The SID is emulated too
of course, and may not sound precisely the same.
One idea if you're really keen is to buy a "C64 DTV" game device.
This is a joystick with a full C64 built in, cleverly re-worked into
an ASIC. This was released in 2005 I think, and is on sale for about
$15-20. It doesn't have a real SID either unfortunately, but the
sound is pretty good, and the toy is surprisingly expandable. You
could indeed use one as a dedicated sound effect generator for your
EV, as they boot and load instantly from flash memory.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C64_Direct-to-TV
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--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrete on 1/15/07:
>> The oil companies own most of the solar panel producers...
Nick Carter responded (off-list) with:
> I have to point out that this isn't accurate. Maybe it was in the
> days of Arco solar but not now. Sharp is the largest product of
> PV and has been for ~7 years. Kyocera, Sanyo, Q-Cells, Suntech,
> Evergreen, GE, Schott, SolarWorld and SunPower are some of the
> top names in PV production and none are owned by oil companies
> AFAIK.
>
> Here's a report from 2003:
> http://www.solarbuzz.com/StatsGrowth.htm
> See the pie chart at the bottom.
>
> There's a more recent market overview at
> http://www.solarbuzz.com/Marketbuzz2006-intro.htm
>
> Shell sold out to SolarWorld, and I think BP fell back a few
> places. SunTech (Chinese) have grown by leaps and bounds, so
> from not being on this chart will probably be in the top 3 soon.
So, it appears I was relying on old information, and that the situation
has changed. I know this is a bit off-topic for those who don't charge
with solar; but want to correct my earlier error.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm not sure where I fit in this model, but I think I'm safe.
NOPE!
Roger is right! You *cannot* power the E-meter directly from your
accessory 12v battery; it will SHORT the propulsion pack negative to the
car's chassis ground!
Dave Cover wrote:
I've been looking for a dc-dc to power my eMeter, but didn't know
where to look.
There's lots of ways to do it, and they've been discussed (to death) on
the EV list already. But if you want just one simple answer...
Go to www.astrodyne.com or call 1-800-823-8082. Order one MSCC-5003 for
$80. Yes, it's expensive; but I guarantee it will do the whole job
right. This is a potted block with screw terminals, easy chassis mount,
85-265vac input, 15v 3w output, and 3000vac isolation. It actually works
on DC, for any pack from 96v to 350v DC -- I've tested it myself.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton wrote:
Out of curiousity, did you test the HAM or HAMD module (the HAMD lacks
the internal diode bridge of the HAM module and should therefore run
cooler on DC, just in case the power limit you observed is thermal)?
Yes, it was the plain HAM, with the internal diode bridge.
The HAMD without the diodes would run a bit cooler. But the main
limitation is that by nature a PFC boost converter delivers an amount of
power proportional to the *square* of the instantaneous input voltage.
This means 120vdc input only produces half the power as 120vac. If you
run it on DC, you deprive it of the high peak where it gets most of its
power output.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
BFRListmail wrote:
Who else is going?
I'm sorry to say that I won't be able to go. Too many things happening
up here for me to get away. But I hope to see lots of reports on what I
missed from those that do attend!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You might want to also give Express Auto Delivery a call (319-365-9759)
I had them ship an EV for me last fall and they were about 1/3 the cost
of several other shippers that I contacted. If the vehicle is not
running, most shippers will charge an additional fee for winching onto
their truck.
Darryl
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jerry McIntire
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 9:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Shipper for TEVan?
Thanks John, I used to live in PT and hadn't heard of them. Will get
a quote.
Jerry
On Jan 17, 2007, at 7:19 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> At 05:14 AM 1/17/2007, Rod Hower wrote:
>> I think Nick Austin paid $950 to ship my TEVan to
>> Mountain View when he bought it. I assume the service
>
> And I've had good luck with "Kiwi Karriers" out of Port Townsend, WA.
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://
> www.CasaDelGato.com
>
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On 1/15/07, Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Paul G. wrote:
> This market split I referred to gets wider :-)
>
> You would be happy with the DC>DC keeping up *most* of the
> time and the voltage wandering down below 13 volts the rest
> of the time.
No, not necessarily. I am asking *you* if 100A is really a realistic
continuous 12V system load. I've seen the 100A value bandied about by
others on the basis that if an ICE vehicle is equipped with a 100A
alternator, then we should be installing 100A DC/DCs. I don't have
personal experience with vehicles with 100A level 12V loads, so my
question is really if it makes sound sense to pay for 100A of continuous
DC/DC capability if the reality is that this value really represents a
peak or worst-case load condition that might seldom, if ever, be
encountered.
The PSA EVs have a DC-DC converter in the 1kW range. They were
evidently working on the assumption that it needs to be as "good" as
an alternator. It does the job, including running heated screens and
the electric power steering pump. It is water cooled though!
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--- Begin Message ---
Dave, I'm asking because I want to compare the situation to running an
alternator off the tailshaft of a traction motor. Just trying to
understand why an alternator alone couldn't supply enough energy on average.
Hope that clarifies.
Bill Dennis
David Roden wrote:
On 17 Jan 2007 at 8:41, Bill Dennis wrote:
Can you explain a little more why the alternator alone didn't won't work for
you? What problems did you have?
Excuse me for interrupting, but please remember that this is a list for
ELECTRIC VEHICLES<<. Please discuss ICEVs in private email, not here on
the list.
Thanks for your understanding.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- Begin Message ---
Since Altairnano appears to be equipped to manufacture their batteries in
sufficient quantities to supply Phoenix, what is the chance they would
consider a purchase from the public? If enough interested group members
were to put in a consolidated order of say $100 - 200K, would they be
interested? I am willing to spend $20K on a battery pack, but am not
willing to spend this on Saft/BB600 NiCds or Thundersky Lion based on what I
have read of their issues. Does anyone have any insider information about
likely availability of the Altairnano batteries?
_________________________________________________________________
Share your opinion and enter to win! Please complete this survey to enter
into a draw for a grand prize of $500 or one of twenty $50 cash prizes.
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--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Jan 2007 at 17:48, Death to All Spammers wrote:
> 30-35mpg with the trailer seems a good 5-10mpg less than one would get
> in a straight ICE version of such a small sports car.
I think this is what the APU returned with ACP's Honda Civic, too. My Civic
VX gets a solid 45-48mpg on the highway. Theirs might have brisker
acceleration, but I don't have a trailer to contend with.
Although I think the best way is to have an EV for short trips and a fueled
vehicle for longer ones (healthier for the ICE anyway), I recognize that not
everyone can maintain two different vehicles.
What we really need is a neighborhood motorpool, a variation on the Station
Car concept. You'd never have to own a vehicle, just own a share or pay a
monthly fee. You could drive a small EV for daily commuting. If you needed
a gasser van for the family vacation or a big diesel pickup to fetch some
lumber, you'd just call ahead, leave the E-car, and swap for what you needed
for a couple of days. (There might be a surcharge for doing so to encourage
people to use the EVs when possible.)
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stolen out of an ICE while in college. Had to jump it to start it, then
drove it home without a battery so I could put in new cables and a new
battery. Went about 30 miles without a battery.
Without a battery, it is really hard on your electrical system, especially
electronics (such as the computer that runs the ICE). If run without a
battery, usually the evidence is pretty clear when you're going through the
carcass of what used to be an engine controller. The battery is needed to
act as a big capacitor for the electrical system, and without it the
alternator's output will tend to go up in voltage until something breaks.
-Dale
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> John Wayland did the Red Beastie run up the Columbia river using the ugly
> box charger. I don't recall the names of other people to run EVs from
> Seattle to Portland and back. Rich Rudman, John Wayland and Steve Lough
> should know several others who have done it and report on the lessons
> learned.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
Hey Wayland..
Should we finally tell the list the whole story about the Red Beastie charge
cart effort, the all day charger Flambe and electrocution Field day?
I am not sure the list is ready for a Flash back to the Good old days of the
The Ammo Box charger, the Ugly box charger and the Gen cart from Hell.
Man the old thing is covered with Blackberry vines and sits molding in my
back yard. Wow..Remember when......
Before PFC anything chargers, just variacs and manual throttle controls.
Pat Sweeny's place with 50 amp cables going everywheres... Busted this
broken that, Diodes on fire....Coolant leaking every where...
And...Nobody got killed, or even slightly maimed.
Madman
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