EV Digest 6322
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Opening the Curtis 1212B
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: wind resistance ( was where to start )
by "Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: wind resistance ( was where to start )
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
by "OverRev Racing, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Funding a conversion
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EEstor Freedom's an' Sunrises .
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Hello, I'm new
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: NOISY SLOW Volt Video
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Fwd: RE: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Post Office Charging
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
by Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: wind resistance ( was where to start )
by "Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: wind resistance ( was where to start )
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) Re: ZeroMow Electric Lawn Mower?
by "Brandon Kruger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile
competition
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: ZeroMow Electric Lawn Mower?
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Sunnyvale Caltrain Station EV Charging?
by "Rodriguez, Jennifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EEstor
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Age Old AC vs DC
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: ZeroMow Electric Lawn Mower?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Use a cross pein hammer and gently tap the end potting all the way round to
break the seal. You should then just be able to put it back with a smear of
sealant.
Paul Compton
www.evguru.co.uk
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
www.bvs.org.uk
www.morini-mania.co.uk
www.compton.vispa.com/the_named
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Very accurate Rachael.
This of course means that the power required to push the car along
also goes up by a similar ammount.
For example I run an old Mini. It's generally accepted that it
requires 12HP to push it along at 50mph. So as a result of the
effects of wind resistance, to push it along at 100mph, double the
speed, requires 2^2, or 4 times as much power, 48HP
Likewise ,interpolating back,at 25mph the power requirement is 3HP.
This applies only to flat plane travel, of course.
It is reasonable to assume that most 'average' cars require 10-15HP
at 50mph on the flat.
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Rachael Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> assuming that air is still .. how does wind resistance
> relate to ev speed ?
>
> does it become double at double speed and triple at triple speed ?
> or does it go up much more than that ?
>
> brings up the obvious question .. what is the optimum speed
> which will give the best mileage out of a full charge ?
> (slow speeds may work out okay for many if it gives a much
> longer range .. for speed buffs, range may not matter .. extreme
> accelerations give the thrill !)
>
> Okay this much I DO remember from physics if I remember
> correctly. The wind resistance can be looked at as a force,
> or in other words energy applied in a given direction.
> energy = mass times velocity squared so as your speed goes two
times
> the wind resistance goes up four times, as it goes up three times,
> the wind resistance is 9 times greater. so hot windless days are
best
> from a purely wind resistance point of view because the have
> no additional speed of their own ( just the speed of collision
> from the car impacting the air ) and because hot air is less dense
> then cold air so there are fewer particles colliding
> with the vehicle as it goes down the road. . . does that sound
right to
> you all??
> Rachael
>
> ..peekay
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do not believe this is correct.
Drag force going up by the square of velocity means the watt-hrs per
mile is 4x more at 2x the speed.
However, at twice the speed you're covering miles twice as fast. So the
power- the rate at which you use watt-hrs- is actually 8x when you
double the speed.
Thus twice the velocity reduces pack range to 1/4th (not counting
Peukert's) and the motor must put out 8x the HP. This will not entirely
jive with real-world results because this only addresses aero drag which
is an oversimplistic view of losses.
It is important to note that aero drag is not the only loss on a
vehicle. Otherwise, the drag calculations propose crazy high ranges as
speed decreases. Rolling drag from the tires presents a minimum
per-mile loss no matter how slow, due to the deformation cycle the
rubber goes through each rotation. If a vehicle were run on smooth,
level rails with steel train wheels and no transmission then an EV could
indeed get crazy ranges at low speeds.
Danny
Chris wrote:
Very accurate Rachael.
This of course means that the power required to push the car along
also goes up by a similar ammount.
For example I run an old Mini. It's generally accepted that it
requires 12HP to push it along at 50mph. So as a result of the
effects of wind resistance, to push it along at 100mph, double the
speed, requires 2^2, or 4 times as much power, 48HP
Likewise ,interpolating back,at 25mph the power requirement is 3HP.
This applies only to flat plane travel, of course.
It is reasonable to assume that most 'average' cars require 10-15HP
at 50mph on the flat.
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Rachael Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
assuming that air is still .. how does wind resistance
relate to ev speed ?
does it become double at double speed and triple at triple speed ?
or does it go up much more than that ?
brings up the obvious question .. what is the optimum speed
which will give the best mileage out of a full charge ?
(slow speeds may work out okay for many if it gives a much
longer range .. for speed buffs, range may not matter .. extreme
accelerations give the thrill !)
Okay this much I DO remember from physics if I remember
correctly. The wind resistance can be looked at as a force,
or in other words energy applied in a given direction.
energy = mass times velocity squared so as your speed goes two
times
the wind resistance goes up four times, as it goes up three times,
the wind resistance is 9 times greater. so hot windless days are
best
from a purely wind resistance point of view because the have
no additional speed of their own ( just the speed of collision
from the car impacting the air ) and because hot air is less dense
then cold air so there are fewer particles colliding
with the vehicle as it goes down the road. . . does that sound
right to
you all??
Rachael
..peekay
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Fellow EVr's,
I need some help. I've been a drag racing fanatic for
years. I'm looking for direction to build my car, to
convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to electric
power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
I have no clue where to start sourcing parts for this,
but my blueprint consists of an assembly that sits in
the engine bay and drives a factory automatic
transmission (GM or Chrysler), using battery power
from two groups of batteries--one set located in the
engine compartment and another set located in the
trunk. My belief is that this will allow for more even
distribution of the weight. The rear interior is also
available for battery space.
The car is a rolling chassis and has been soda/sand
stripped and sealed--car looks like a restoration thus
far. I don't have a target speed but I'm guessing the
higher the voltage the better. the car is manual
brakes and steering, has heavy duty components and is
not yet rear-geared--so I can dial a custom ratio
needed for the RPM's that are produced.
I won't be street driving the car--so no worries
there.
Where do I get a motor?
What type of wiring schematic will be needed?
should I be planning to buy Optima's and how many (I
already get them at Wholesale in bulk)
What type of charging will the car require? I have 220
in my garage.
Any information for such a project would be helpful
Thanks,
Chuck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Jan 2007 at 23:09, Cory R. Cross wrote:
> Besides, you
> won't get enough power out of those batteries to bother with a Zilla
> controller or any 9" motor ...
A flooded golf car battery can deliver at least 1000 amps peak. Even if
they sagged to 1.5 vpc, 24 of them would still easily deliver well over
100kW.
Now I'll admit that they wouldn't last too long if treated that way
regularly. But golf car batteries are not as feeble as some would have you
think. Treat them with respect!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 19 Jan 2007 at 9:58, jerryd wrote:
> Just on $550/kw SAFT Ni-cads ...
Do you really mean $550 per kiloWatt or $550 per kiloWatt HOUR?
Neither one is accurate, I'm sorry to say. Someone recently posted a
current price quotation (thanks). The dollar price for Saft nicads has gone
up thanks in part to the US dollar's decline in value relative to the Euro.
A single 6v, 100ah Saft STM5-100MR module now costs $550. That is good for
about 0.6 kWH of >energy< and can produce about 1.2kW of >power<
continuously, 3kW peak.
So the cost is roughly $915 per kiloWatt hour of energy, and about $460 per
kiloWatt of continuous power.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 18 Jan 2007 at 21:59, Anthony Nguyen wrote:
> Just out of curiousity, why don't we have a more traditional internet forum?
Welcome, Anthony. We've just finished a discussion of this matter a few
days ago. Please look in the archives for more information.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/
Sorry if the welcome message didn't mention that archive. I'll update it
Real Soon Now. ;-)
Briefly, and at the risk of sounding impatient, here's what it comes down
to. The EVDL is where a lot of really good, knowledgable, experienced EV
hobbyists and pros hang out. We use a mailing list. It's been around for
a long time, MUCH longer than any web forum, longer in fact than the web
itself. There's a bit of history here :
http://www.evdl.org/
You're very welcome to the support of the good folks here, freely given.
But I'm afraid that you'll have to put up with the mailing list format.
If having a web forum format is more important to you than having
experienced, generous, helpful participants, then you might want to start
your own forum. Be sure to announce it here. Good luck.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 18 Jan 2007 at 5:22, Death to All Spammers wrote:
> Did she unplug from a 110V cord? How long does *that* take for a recharge?
>
> I guess GM gave up on inductive paddles...
>
If GM is typical of most automakers (indeed of most US manufacturers of
anything), the team working on the "Volt" probably made no effort to build
on GM's previous EV work, including the inductive charger.
Of course I'm not an insider, so I'm speculating, but I've seen this happen
before. There's some noise abroad in the land about EVs, and the DOE or
other well-heeled entity offers funding for prototype work. A major US
automaker decides they could use some of that grant money.
They assemble a group of engineers, few of whom have any real world EV
experience. The group starts from scratch, researching and designing an EV
from the perspective of a company that builds ICEs.
In due time they produce a prototype. It's trotted out to the media, shown
at auto shows, etc. They test the vehicle, refine it a bit. They duly
prepare their reports for the higher-ups and write papers for the SAE and EV
conferences. The reports make their way to the office of the guy who
suggested the project, who by this time may or may not still be working
there.
No attempt is made to commercialize the design, of course. The project's
main objective - to get a few million dollars of grant money - has been
accomplished. The prototype is stored away and forgotten. The EV team is
let go or reassigned. The papers and reports are filed.
Five years later, the DOE offers another round of grants. The same
automaker decides to get some of that money, and the cycle starts all over
again from scratch. Most likely no one even looks at the former team's
research, reports, or even the prototype.
Thus, it wouldn't surprise me if the engineers who designed the "Volt" have
never even seen an EV1 or Impact.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 19 Jan 2007 at 12:19, OverRev Racing, Inc. wrote:
> I'm looking for direction to build my car, to
> convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to electric
> power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
Sounds like you should be at the next drag racing event! There you'll find
lots of examples for inspiration.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chuck;
No need for a transmission, so get that out of your head right now.
Everything you need to know about making that car go fast you can find at
www.plasmaboyracing.com
Have fun
Hey Fellow EVr's,
I need some help. I've been a drag racing fanatic for
years. I'm looking for direction to build my car, to
convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to electric
power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
I have no clue where to start sourcing parts for this,
but my blueprint consists of an assembly that sits in
the engine bay and drives a factory automatic
transmission (GM or Chrysler), using battery power
from two groups of batteries--one set located in the
engine compartment and another set located in the
trunk. My belief is that this will allow for more even
distribution of the weight. The rear interior is also
available for battery space.
The car is a rolling chassis and has been soda/sand
stripped and sealed--car looks like a restoration thus
far. I don't have a target speed but I'm guessing the
higher the voltage the better. the car is manual
brakes and steering, has heavy duty components and is
not yet rear-geared--so I can dial a custom ratio
needed for the RPM's that are produced.
I won't be street driving the car--so no worries
there.
Where do I get a motor?
What type of wiring schematic will be needed?
should I be planning to buy Optima's and how many (I
already get them at Wholesale in bulk)
What type of charging will the car require? I have 220
in my garage.
Any information for such a project would be helpful
Thanks,
Chuck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know if and when there was a Federal mandate that all US
Post Offices have a external outlet, maybe standard outside 20 amp
120 volt AC, for electric vehicle charging ?
Could the public use it too ?
Menlo Park III,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________
Interested in getting caught up on today's news?
Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines.
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/front.htm?csp=24
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check out the web sites of some the various EV Drag racers:
http://www.nedra.com/
Look at "NEDRA record holders", and there will be a link to their web sites.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
---------------------------------------------------
See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of OverRev Racing, Inc.
Sent: January 19, 2007 12:19 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Club
Subject: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
Hey Fellow EVr's,
I need some help. I've been a drag racing fanatic for years. I'm looking for
direction to build my car, to convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to
electric power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
I have no clue where to start sourcing parts for this, but my blueprint
consists of an assembly that sits in the engine bay and drives a factory
automatic transmission (GM or Chrysler), using battery power from two groups
of batteries--one set located in the engine compartment and another set
located in the trunk. My belief is that this will allow for more even
distribution of the weight. The rear interior is also available for battery
space.
The car is a rolling chassis and has been soda/sand stripped and sealed--car
looks like a restoration thus far. I don't have a target speed but I'm
guessing the higher the voltage the better. the car is manual brakes and
steering, has heavy duty components and is not yet rear-geared--so I can
dial a custom ratio needed for the RPM's that are produced.
I won't be street driving the car--so no worries there.
Where do I get a motor?
What type of wiring schematic will be needed?
should I be planning to buy Optima's and how many (I already get them at
Wholesale in bulk)
What type of charging will the car require? I have 220 in my garage.
Any information for such a project would be helpful
Thanks,
Chuck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ah well spotted, I stand corrected.
The wind resistance increases by the square of the velocity but due
to the suplementary and proportional increase in rate of work the
power which is required to maintain the doubled speed is a function
of velocity cubed.
OR, Owing to Power = Force x Velocity .....
where force is wind resistance and therefore v^2 already, and so
therefore V^2 x v = v^3
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I do not believe this is correct.
>
> Drag force going up by the square of velocity means the watt-hrs
per
> mile is 4x more at 2x the speed.
>
> However, at twice the speed you're covering miles twice as fast.
So the
> power- the rate at which you use watt-hrs- is actually 8x when you
> double the speed.
>
> Thus twice the velocity reduces pack range to 1/4th (not counting
> Peukert's) and the motor must put out 8x the HP. This will not
entirely
> jive with real-world results because this only addresses aero drag
which
> is an oversimplistic view of losses.
>
> It is important to note that aero drag is not the only loss on a
> vehicle. Otherwise, the drag calculations propose crazy high
ranges as
> speed decreases. Rolling drag from the tires presents a minimum
> per-mile loss no matter how slow, due to the deformation cycle the
> rubber goes through each rotation. If a vehicle were run on
smooth,
> level rails with steel train wheels and no transmission then an EV
could
> indeed get crazy ranges at low speeds.
>
> Danny
>
> Chris wrote:
>
> >Very accurate Rachael.
> >
> >This of course means that the power required to push the car along
> >also goes up by a similar ammount.
> >
> >For example I run an old Mini. It's generally accepted that it
> >requires 12HP to push it along at 50mph. So as a result of the
> >effects of wind resistance, to push it along at 100mph, double the
> >speed, requires 2^2, or 4 times as much power, 48HP
> >
> >Likewise ,interpolating back,at 25mph the power requirement is 3HP.
> >
> >This applies only to flat plane travel, of course.
> >
> >It is reasonable to assume that most 'average' cars require 10-
15HP
> >at 50mph on the flat.
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Rachael Myers <ev@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>assuming that air is still .. how does wind resistance
> >>relate to ev speed ?
> >>
> >>does it become double at double speed and triple at triple speed ?
> >>or does it go up much more than that ?
> >>
> >>brings up the obvious question .. what is the optimum speed
> >>which will give the best mileage out of a full charge ?
> >>(slow speeds may work out okay for many if it gives a much
> >>longer range .. for speed buffs, range may not matter .. extreme
> >>accelerations give the thrill !)
> >>
> >>Okay this much I DO remember from physics if I remember
> >>correctly. The wind resistance can be looked at as a force,
> >>or in other words energy applied in a given direction.
> >>energy = mass times velocity squared so as your speed goes two
> >>
> >>
> >times
> >
> >
> >>the wind resistance goes up four times, as it goes up three times,
> >>the wind resistance is 9 times greater. so hot windless days are
> >>
> >>
> >best
> >
> >
> >>from a purely wind resistance point of view because the have
> >>no additional speed of their own ( just the speed of collision
> >>from the car impacting the air ) and because hot air is less dense
> >>then cold air so there are fewer particles colliding
> >>with the vehicle as it goes down the road. . . does that sound
> >>
> >>
> >right to
> >
> >
> >>you all??
> >>Rachael
> >>
> >>..peekay
> >>
> >>
> >>---------------------------------
> >>TV dinner still cooling?
> >>Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The electric cars in early part of last century had rolling drag closer to
train rails. Super skinny tires hard tires that did not hold air. We do have
far better roads today though.
Don
In a message dated 1/19/2007 12:18:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I do not believe this is correct.
Drag force going up by the square of velocity means the watt-hrs per
mile is 4x more at 2x the speed.
However, at twice the speed you're covering miles twice as fast. So the
power- the rate at which you use watt-hrs- is actually 8x when you
double the speed.
Thus twice the velocity reduces pack range to 1/4th (not counting
Peukert's) and the motor must put out 8x the HP. This will not entirely
jive with real-world results because this only addresses aero drag which
is an oversimplistic view of losses.
It is important to note that aero drag is not the only loss on a
vehicle. Otherwise, the drag calculations propose crazy high ranges as
speed decreases. Rolling drag from the tires presents a minimum
per-mile loss no matter how slow, due to the deformation cycle the
rubber goes through each rotation. If a vehicle were run on smooth,
level rails with steel train wheels and no transmission then an EV could
indeed get crazy ranges at low speeds.
Danny
Chris wrote:
>Very accurate Rachael.
>
>This of course means that the power required to push the car along
>also goes up by a similar ammount.
>
>For example I run an old Mini. It's generally accepted that it
>requires 12HP to push it along at 50mph. So as a result of the
>effects of wind resistance, to push it along at 100mph, double the
>speed, requires 2^2, or 4 times as much power, 48HP
>
>Likewise ,interpolating back,at 25mph the power requirement is 3HP.
>
>This applies only to flat plane travel, of course.
>
>It is reasonable to assume that most 'average' cars require 10-15HP
>at 50mph on the flat.
>
>Chris
>
>
>--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Rachael Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>>assuming that air is still .. how does wind resistance
>>relate to ev speed ?
>>
>>does it become double at double speed and triple at triple speed ?
>>or does it go up much more than that ?
>>
>>brings up the obvious question .. what is the optimum speed
>>which will give the best mileage out of a full charge ?
>>(slow speeds may work out okay for many if it gives a much
>>longer range .. for speed buffs, range may not matter .. extreme
>>accelerations give the thrill !)
>>
>>Okay this much I DO remember from physics if I remember
>>correctly. The wind resistance can be looked at as a force,
>>or in other words energy applied in a given direction.
>>energy = mass times velocity squared so as your speed goes two
>>
>>
>times
>
>
>>the wind resistance goes up four times, as it goes up three times,
>>the wind resistance is 9 times greater. so hot windless days are
>>
>>
>best
>
>
>>from a purely wind resistance point of view because the have
>>no additional speed of their own ( just the speed of collision
>>from the car impacting the air ) and because hot air is less dense
>>then cold air so there are fewer particles colliding
>>with the vehicle as it goes down the road. . . does that sound
>>
>>
>right to
>
>
>>you all??
>>Rachael
>>
>>..peekay
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>TV dinner still cooling?
>>Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>>
>>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not sure exactly what kind of lawnmower you are looking for but I
thought I'd mention the Black and Decker CMM1000. I've been using it for
over a year and it's great. Just unplug and mow, plug-in when done. It's
extremely quiet and hasn't required any maintenance. It's the perfect mower
for medium-sized yards.
http://www.housekeepingchannel.com/r_126-Cordless_Mower_CMM1000
Brandon
On 1/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Zeromow will have a new name but continues to cut grass all over North
America.
Stay tuned and I promise I will post to the list as soon as legal
obligations allow.
We have our fingers crossed but I think you will be seeing alot of them
available.
Shawn Lawless
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: ZeroMow Electric Lawn Mower?
Where oh where has the zeromow gone? I hunted for it online a few
months ago and
now that I gutted my EV Lawn mower I went looking again. The only thing
I find
is that it was going to be displayed at the 2006 mower convention of
some sort.
The electric ox pages seem to be gone too but that was really never an
alternative.
Looking for something for next season for my 1+ acre of lawn. Plugging
in my
tractor to charge multiple times over two or more days to mow my lawn
was
getting ridiculous. Two days if I did it on the weekend but more if I
tried on
weeknights since i'd only get one mow in before dark. The drought did
save me
from having to mow every single day to catch up. My transmission gave
out and it
was rusting pretty bad so that put an end to the insanity and the
issues my wife
had with the whole situation.
_________________________________________________________________________
___________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Chuck,
Considering the time and money you are going to invest, it
is a very good investment to attend a NEDRA event (or two) before you
begin construction. You can see what works and what doesn't, and you
can chat with all the experts and part suppliers.
It is a very friendly group. Attending an event is
positively the best way to "get up to speed" on electric drag racing.
The next NEDRA event is on January 26th in Jupiter Florida.
See you there....
Bill Dube'
check out my new, updated, web site:
http://www.KillaCycle.com
At 02:00 PM 1/19/2007, you wrote:
Check out the web sites of some the various EV Drag racers:
http://www.nedra.com/
Look at "NEDRA record holders", and there will be a link to their web sites.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
---------------------------------------------------
See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of OverRev Racing, Inc.
Sent: January 19, 2007 12:19 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Club
Subject: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
Hey Fellow EVr's,
I need some help. I've been a drag racing fanatic for years. I'm looking for
direction to build my car, to convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to
electric power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
I have no clue where to start sourcing parts for this, but my blueprint
consists of an assembly that sits in the engine bay and drives a factory
automatic transmission (GM or Chrysler), using battery power from two groups
of batteries--one set located in the engine compartment and another set
located in the trunk. My belief is that this will allow for more even
distribution of the weight. The rear interior is also available for battery
space.
The car is a rolling chassis and has been soda/sand stripped and sealed--car
looks like a restoration thus far. I don't have a target speed but I'm
guessing the higher the voltage the better. the car is manual brakes and
steering, has heavy duty components and is not yet rear-geared--so I can
dial a custom ratio needed for the RPM's that are produced.
I won't be street driving the car--so no worries there.
Where do I get a motor?
What type of wiring schematic will be needed?
should I be planning to buy Optima's and how many (I already get them at
Wholesale in bulk)
What type of charging will the car require? I have 220 in my garage.
Any information for such a project would be helpful
Thanks,
Chuck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just wanted to agree that the CMM1000 and some
previous models are great. I had an earlier one and
although I needed to replace the charger eventually it
works far better then my dads push mower.
I think I gave away a similar B&D mower to someone
when I moved to Texas from Connecticut.
Now I have a full acre of grass to mow though. Even if
the batteries would last, quick change packs or some
such, I certainly wouldn't :-(
--- Brandon Kruger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm not sure exactly what kind of lawnmower you are
> looking for but I
> thought I'd mention the Black and Decker CMM1000.
> I've been using it for
> over a year and it's great. Just unplug and mow,
> plug-in when done. It's
> extremely quiet and hasn't required any maintenance.
> It's the perfect mower
> for medium-sized yards.
>
http://www.housekeepingchannel.com/r_126-Cordless_Mower_CMM1000
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The poor, worn-out thing definitely could not make it both ways.
The motor is now in even worse shape that the batteries, it squeals a
lot! :-( I've decided to postpone replacing the batteries until after
I decide what to do about the motor.
Jenn
-----Original Message-----
From: Cor van de Water [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 7:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Sunnyvale Caltrain Station EV Charging?
Jennifer,
Nema 5-15 outlets (the normal 3-pronged wall sockets) are often
available in many places, but not listed on EV Charger websites
because it takes too long to charge a car and parking is
usually not reserved at normal outlet locations, as they are
often placed for cleaning/vending purposes, not charging.
Can you make it both ways on a charge or is the distance too
far for your tired moped batteries?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Grigg. John
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 4:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Sunnyvale Caltrain Station EV Charging?
Doesn't look like any standard three-prong household outlets are
there...
http://www.evchargernews.com/regions/94086_3.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rodriguez, Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 3:48 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Sunnyvale Caltrain Station EV Charging?
Does anyone know if I can charge my electric moped (EVT 4000e) in the
parking garage there? It uses a standard three-prong household outlet.
I have to go to SF every day for a week and thought it would be nice to
ride my moped to the station instead of driving.
Thanks, Jenn
________________________________________________________________________
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If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 18, 2007, at 2:09 PM, Roderick Wilde wrote:
Maybe you would care to elaborate on the price of their least
expensive motor and on the price and availability of a 3000 volt
controller to control motor speed so we can all start gearing up for
the future when these batteries come on the market very soon. Please
also include information on their high voltage disconnects. We could
use some of them right now for EV racing. A few hundred volts DC
rating would be fine for the time being.
I think your are missing the point Rod. Caps are not batteries, the
voltage available falls as they discharge (and doesn't bounce back
unless you have regen.) If you want decent capacity you need to
discharge to 1/2 their charged voltage or lower. What is missing isn't
the motors, its the DC>DC converter (or DC>AC inverter) that will
provide a regulated output voltage (a Zilla controller is a buck
controller than can regulate output voltage - but its a few volts shy
of the input :-)
I suspect that the required converter, at EV power levels, will be
expensive. Lithium is not cheap either - the current price point target
of either of these hi-tech EV packs is out of my budget.
Paul "neon" G.
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here is a great article about how a hotrod magazine got a V8 Plymouth down to
2400 lbs:
<http://www.hotrod.com/howto/113_0310_weight_reduction/index.html>
----- Original Message ----
From: "OverRev Racing, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Club <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:19:17 PM
Subject: Converting a 1974 Plymouth to Electric for 1/4 mile competition
Hey Fellow EVr's,
I need some help. I've been a drag racing fanatic for
years. I'm looking for direction to build my car, to
convert my bare 74 Plymouth A-Body car to electric
power for 1/4 mile racing purposes.
I have no clue where to start sourcing parts for this,
but my blueprint consists of an assembly that sits in
the engine bay and drives a factory automatic
transmission (GM or Chrysler), using battery power
from two groups of batteries--one set located in the
engine compartment and another set located in the
trunk. My belief is that this will allow for more even
distribution of the weight. The rear interior is also
available for battery space.
The car is a rolling chassis and has been soda/sand
stripped and sealed--car looks like a restoration thus
far. I don't have a target speed but I'm guessing the
higher the voltage the better. the car is manual
brakes and steering, has heavy duty components and is
not yet rear-geared--so I can dial a custom ratio
needed for the RPM's that are produced.
I won't be street driving the car--so no worries
there.
Where do I get a motor?
What type of wiring schematic will be needed?
should I be planning to buy Optima's and how many (I
already get them at Wholesale in bulk)
What type of charging will the car require? I have 220
in my garage.
Any information for such a project would be helpful
Thanks,
Chuck
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/features_spam.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 15, 2007, at 7:16 PM, Matthew Drobnak wrote:
Average TQ over powerband (all of data, not just "useful part")
ICE: 221.08
AC90: 193.09
2 AC55: 188
2 9" 2k: 327.5
1 11" 1k: 195.2 <-- From 72V #s * 5 - I think it's off a bit
1 11" 2k: 292.8 ^^^ See above - 1.5 * above #s
At high amps the torque a series motor produces generally increases
almost linearly with amps. I would expect^ an 11" and Z2k to have
around 550 ft/lb. of torque and that this would be constant from 0 rpm
up to wherever the controller came out of current limit (this point
will rise as the voltage increases, I'd guess to around 5000 rpm with a
336 volt pack.)
^ abusing data from <http://www.evsource.com>
Paul
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Naw, you want the Robomower. It mows the lawn without you, which is
just awesome. Fun as hell to show off.
Danny
Brandon Kruger wrote:
I'm not sure exactly what kind of lawnmower you are looking for but I
thought I'd mention the Black and Decker CMM1000. I've been using it for
over a year and it's great. Just unplug and mow, plug-in when done.
It's
extremely quiet and hasn't required any maintenance. It's the perfect
mower
for medium-sized yards.
http://www.housekeepingchannel.com/r_126-Cordless_Mower_CMM1000
Brandon
On 1/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Zeromow will have a new name but continues to cut grass all over North
America.
Stay tuned and I promise I will post to the list as soon as legal
obligations allow.
We have our fingers crossed but I think you will be seeing alot of them
available.
Shawn Lawless
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: ZeroMow Electric Lawn Mower?
Where oh where has the zeromow gone? I hunted for it online a few
months ago and
now that I gutted my EV Lawn mower I went looking again. The only thing
I find
is that it was going to be displayed at the 2006 mower convention of
some sort.
The electric ox pages seem to be gone too but that was really never an
alternative.
Looking for something for next season for my 1+ acre of lawn. Plugging
in my
tractor to charge multiple times over two or more days to mow my lawn
was
getting ridiculous. Two days if I did it on the weekend but more if I
tried on
weeknights since i'd only get one mow in before dark. The drought did
save me
from having to mow every single day to catch up. My transmission gave
out and it
was rusting pretty bad so that put an end to the insanity and the
issues my wife
had with the whole situation.
_________________________________________________________________________
___________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
--- End Message ---
