EV Digest 6345
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Electric "Jeep", Is this project feasable?
by xx xx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Electric "Jeep", Is this project feasable?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Strange EVDL goings-on
by xx xx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Strange EVDL goings-on
by "Randy Burleson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) hi: where to start?
by "Ken Amornkul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Using Vortex Tubes for air conditioning/heating
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: FW: Three-wheeling in California
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Fwd: hi from india
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) I need a ride from the West Palm Beach Airport to the Battery Beach
Burnout events
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Water cooled AC Motor question...
by Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: where to start?
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) BBS and email at the same time
by Anthony Nguyen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Water cooled AC Motor question...
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: hi: where to start?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: where to start?
by Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: BBS and email at the same time
by xx xx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: repair of controller, Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring diagram
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) KTA is only sorta gone
by "Brian M. Sutin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) New commercial EV: 2 passenger high-performance trike
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: hi from india
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Fwd: hi from india
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Water cooled AC Motor question...
by Kevin Lura <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: repair of controller, Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring diagram
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
--- Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> First of all our Land Rover was not that heavy :-)
> It was only a little over
> two tons.
How much of that weight was battery?
> Having said that, eleven inch motors weren't readily
> available at the time
> so if I made the decision now I might go with an
> eleven. There is never such
> a thing as too much torque, that is as long as you
> don't mind buying axles,
> etc.
The 14 bolt is almost indestructible, so that should
be ok. The D44, well, they are popular and parts are
easy to get ;)
What do you think of pairing the 11" with a 1KZilla,
does that cripple the motor, or preserve the battery
pack? Or both?
> Concerning the Jeep Cherokee, I did one of these
> conversions in 1997 with
> 144 volts of T-145 Trojans. It had great range.
Do you happen to remember the range in miles?
Maybe, with your experience, the question I should ask
is how much battery do you think I'll need to get 50
mile range with my proposed vehicle assuming around
4,000 vehicle weight, (incl. batteries). What would
you use?
John
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss an email again!
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roderick Wilde wrote:
> Roger, the talk of it being light was meant as a joke.
> You might not have caught that part :-) It's just my
> sick sense of humor acting up again.
No, I appreciate your sense of humour, I hope it keeps acting up! ;^>
I missed the being light meant as a joke because I truly do consider
your 4x4 as light for its type of vehicle! Two tons may not be light in
absolute terms, but I think it would be difficult to do a full-size 4x4
like this much lighter.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Don't be silly. Web based BBSs are more complicated
> than a simple mailing
> list which means they have a larger potential for
> problems.
Well, I was being silly, though I would prefer a BBS
format. I realize they can have problems as well.
> Besides as has
> been mentioned and tried many times on this list,
> anyone that is interested
> in starting a web based EV BBS is more than welcome
> to. Let us all know
> where it is at, and we will choice to participate or
> not...
>
I think the problem has been how to integrate both so
there would be postings at both. The mail people
could still get the mail interface and the BBS people
could move into the 21'st century and use the BBS. I
assume this must be possible, I just don't know how to
do it.
John
____________________________________________________________________________________
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have switched over to text-only for EVDL messages -- I hope this
prevents the issue from my end.
FWIW, I see this about once a week, even without my posting, and the
other digest messages are generally appended as .txt attachments to the
last message.
Randii
Randy Burleson
-----Original Message-----
From: David Roden (Akron OH USA) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Strange EVDL goings-on
On 25 Jan 2007 at 13:53, Steven Lough wrote:
> What happened ??
Hmm, I thought SJSU had that fixed a couple of years ago. Maybe fixing
something else re-broke this.
It's a listserver bug triggered by Randy Burleson's sending an
attachment to
the list. The filter clips the attachment, which it should do, but it
also knocks
off all the messages after that from the digest. As I said I thought
this was
fixed some time ago but it seems to be broken again.
SJSU is probably going to switch us over to Mailman soon, so these bugs
in
the listserver should all go away and be replaced by different bugs. ;-)
David Roden
EV List Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello EV experts,
I'm new to the list. I got interested in EV after reading about Tesla's new
car. And I have a few questions I hope someone out there can answer: Is
there a "how-to" somewhere on the net that can show me how to build an EV
and how good amateur EV technology is currently? Are motors comparable to
Tesla's available for purchase to the average consumer? Can we use 7,000 AA
li-ion batteries for energy storage for an EV?
Thanks in advance!
-k
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Hmm, I just went to: http://www.exair.com/vortextube/vt_page.htm and
> selected "Selecting a Vortex Tube" on the left side. No registration
> needed.
I registered to get what they called CAD drawings, nowhere else did they give
the sizes of the various tubes...
> According to the info there, a 3250 consuming 50 SCFM would produce 3400
> btu/hr of cooling.
> The only thing I can't figure out is how much cooling does an EV need? Is
> 3400 btu/hr enough?
>
> At any rate, that's a lot of air. I was kinda hoping a 5lb CO2 tank might
> be enough ('cause CO2 is cheap and readily available).
> Perhaps it would work in a really small vehicle (Sparrow or smaller)
Your 5 lb CO2 tank holds about 50 cu ft, so at your rate of 50 SCFM, the tank
would be depleated in 1 min. The cost to refill the tank is about $10. VERY
expensive system to run.
> It might be fun to test. CO2 has the advantage of coming out of the tank
> really cold,so you have the phase change cooling as well as the vortex
> cooling. From what I'm reading, using cold input gas reduces the output
> temp. Someone was actually able to produce liquid air by cascading vortex
> tubes.
You're right, it might be fun to test. But to get a fully functioning system
even using CO2 still seems a little farfetched.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I seem to remember reading an electric 3 wheeler under 2500 pounds that
> can do at least 45 mph is a motorcycle.
>
*max* 45mph:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl655/dl665mcycle.pdf
Page 2
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:30 AM 26/01/07 +0530, sushrut wrote:
in an ev can a motor be directly connected to a generator with 2 battery
packs ,one runs the motor the other charges the second battery pack, after
the motor finishes the first pack it can switch to the second pack while the
generator charges the first pack so on so forth till both the pack come to
zero ,,, it can increase the range multi fold
one obvious issue is the weight of carrying cpacity or the weight of the
second battery pack
any suggestions or feedback is most valued
G'day Sushrut
The problem with whay you describe is that you are forgetting that you do
not get all of the energy back that you put into the batteries - it is more
efficient to use the generator power directly to the motive power system of
the vehicle.
For a hybrid vehicle that can travel indefinately from generated power, the
engine/generator provides the average power to propel the vehicle down the
road, so *on average*, the vehicle is running from the generated power,
with the engine running at its' most efficient power settings. When demand
exceeds supply (hill climbing or acceleration) the batteries supplement the
generated power. When generated power exceeds demand (descending a hill or
slowing down) the excess goes into the batteries.
For a partial hybrid vehicle, where the generator is too small for the
vehicle, the vehicle uses power from the batteries most of the time. If the
generated power is 50% of the energy needed to move the vehicle, the
vehicle will be using half its' power from the batteries, so will go twice
as far as if running only on battery power.
The result is not as simple as that, though, as the vehicle is carrying the
extra weight of a generator (which shortens the range) but because the
batteries are being discharged slower they are working more efficiently and
will provide more available energy, so lengthening the range.
If the vehicle is to travel at highway speeds, then an aerodymamic vehicle
will travel further than a less aerodynamic vehicle, if the land is flat,
then weight is much less significant than aerodynamics. If the land is
mountainous, then weight is very significant and needs to be minimised for
best range.
As for design information, please have a look at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/ for an idea of what can be done. There are
now over 1000 vehicles listed, look to the type of vehicle, the number of
passengers, load capacity, and so on. Consider your requirements and decide
what type of vehicle suits your needs, and if there is a vehicle in the
album that is near to that. This sets your design parameters, so now you
can look to the equipment that it will take to achieve your needs.
It is easy to build an electric vehicle, if your needs are very modest. As
your needs get to be greater, then the job gets harder and more expensive.
If you have unlimited money, you can build an electric vehicle that is an
outstanding race car as well as having good range and carrying capacity -
but I don't know anyone who has done that yet. The closest is probably the
US$120,000 sports car Tesla roadster.
Hope this helps, and welcome to the list.
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have to fly in rather than driving, and I am looking for someone else flying
in at around the same time. I get to the West Palm Beach Airport at 7:33 PM
EST tomorrow on Delta flight 901. Anyone else getting in around that time or
later and willing to give me a ride to the events? I have a ride around once I
get there. Contact me off list if you can help me out. I'm won't have access
to e-mail past 11:00 AM EST tomorrow. Just let me know how to meet up with you
and when and where.
Thanks,
Steve Powers
---------------------------------
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question
on Yahoo! Answers.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Joe, the water doesn't get hot enough. The motors are quite efficient.
Check out http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_CabinHeater.html for more
info.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
---------------------------------------------------
See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joe Plumer
Sent: January 25, 2007 6:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Water cooled AC Motor question...
For those of you who are running water cooled AC Motors, does the water
circulating through the motor get hot enough to be used for heating the
vehicle?
Instead of having to take apart the dash and find a replacement heater, the
heated water could circulate though the current heater and be used for
heating.
It wouldn't be much different than a normal car where it takes a few minutes
of driving before the water heats up enough to provide any cooling.
Just a thought.
_________________________________________________________________
FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo - buy and sell with people
you know
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://exp
o.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A Google search will bring in a ton of web pages for you to research, try
searching for: convert electric car
But, I can think of a pretty big one here:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_conversion Click on the Index
links at the top of the page
And, no, the nice motors in the Tesla aren't really available. Well, you can
get a motor package for $25,000 from www.acpropulsion.com (200 HP) I believe
they designed the Tesla motor. Using li-ion 18650 cells, like Tesla did, is
also not easy or cheap for a conversion, unless you have tons of money. But,
if you do, might as well get a Tesla :-)
However, you can get an AC motor and controller with regen, like in the
Tesla, just less powerful @ www.metricmind.com for about $8000 - $9000
Chargers, DC motors/controllers here www.evsource.com
Be sure to check out www.evalbum.com
Know what you're getting into!!
I'm personally waiting for the Tango www.commutercars.com Really cool car.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Amornkul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: hi: where to start?
Hello EV experts,
I'm new to the list. I got interested in EV after reading about Tesla's
new
car. And I have a few questions I hope someone out there can answer: Is
there a "how-to" somewhere on the net that can show me how to build an EV
and how good amateur EV technology is currently? Are motors comparable to
Tesla's available for purchase to the average consumer? Can we use 7,000
AA
li-ion batteries for energy storage for an EV?
Thanks in advance!
-k
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey everybody,
evdl fills up my mailbox pretty quickly, and I got bored between my
classes yesterday so I made this ...
http://evdl.awardspace.com/
It works as follows:
An email account is subscribed to the evdl. Every 2 minutes that email
account is checked. Emails are then processed and uploaded to
awardspace.com, making sure that your email addresses aren't revealed.
Right now this is a little experimental, and mostly for my own personal
use. Also, because I don't have any real webserver to run it on, it's
going to be unreliable every monday.
But anyways, I thought it was a potentially good idea, since it uses a
BBSish website to manage emails. Tell me if you try it out, or find
anything wrong with it. And definitely tell me if you want to host it
under your domain or know a server I could run the updater application on ;)
-Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do see opportunity to combine these threads.
So you have 100F water from the controller and/or water cooled motor. A
Peltier or HCFC heat pump could use that as the cold sink and raise a
heatsink temp to 130F or whatever to make cabin heat. This requires
less electricity than the purely electric heater. In the process the
water is actively cooled.
Might be hard to justify, it running even 1000W through Peltiers at a
30F temp differential requires a lot of modules! Additionally this is
only one configuration- that heater won't be on during the summer so the
cooling water needs an alternate way to lose its heat.
Danny
Don Cameron wrote:
Hi Joe, the water doesn't get hot enough. The motors are quite efficient.
Check out http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_CabinHeater.html for more
info.
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
---------------------------------------------------
See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joe Plumer
Sent: January 25, 2007 6:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Water cooled AC Motor question...
For those of you who are running water cooled AC Motors, does the water
circulating through the motor get hot enough to be used for heating the
vehicle?
Instead of having to take apart the dash and find a replacement heater, the
heated water could circulate though the current heater and be used for
heating.
It wouldn't be much different than a normal car where it takes a few minutes
of driving before the water heats up enough to provide any cooling.
Just a thought.
_________________________________________________________________
FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo - buy and sell with people
you know
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://exp
o.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ken; welcome to the list.
I started with Mike Brown's "Convert It", and point
all newbies in that direction. It goes over all of
the basics; what each component does, etc.
wikipedia is also getting pretty good.
Lithium is still expensive. Suggest you start with a
used conversion, or just the very basics; not a drag
racer with a 200-mi. range.
Best to you,
--- Ken Amornkul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello EV experts,
>
> I'm new to the list. I got interested in EV after
> reading about Tesla's new
> car. And I have a few questions I hope someone out
> there can answer: Is
> there a "how-to" somewhere on the net that can show
> me how to build an EV
> and how good amateur EV technology is currently? Are
> motors comparable to
> Tesla's available for purchase to the average
> consumer? Can we use 7,000 AA
> li-ion batteries for energy storage for an EV?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -k
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ken, welcome. I don't think many hobbyists have tried the 7000 AA
battery trick, but many are interested. For FAST cars, faster than the
Tesla, check out NEDRA - www.nedra.com.
As for a How-To, there are lots of sites. Check out mine, or
www.metricmind.com for installation of AC systems.
Also, there are a few links below that will be very helpful.
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
---------------------------------------------------
See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ken Amornkul
Sent: January 25, 2007 5:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: hi: where to start?
Hello EV experts,
I'm new to the list. I got interested in EV after reading about Tesla's new
car. And I have a few questions I hope someone out there can answer: Is
there a "how-to" somewhere on the net that can show me how to build an EV
and how good amateur EV technology is currently? Are motors comparable to
Tesla's available for purchase to the average consumer? Can we use 7,000 AA
li-ion batteries for energy storage for an EV?
Thanks in advance!
-k
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's a start, but it really doesn't give many of the
benefits of a real BBS. Also when I hit "reply" it
says no mail program set up, I guess since I use yahoo
mail?
If it's not a true BBS I'm not sure if it's worth
doing, but maybe there are ways to improve it.
John
--- Anthony Nguyen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey everybody,
> evdl fills up my mailbox pretty quickly, and I got
> bored between my
> classes yesterday so I made this ...
> http://evdl.awardspace.com/
>
> It works as follows:
> An email account is subscribed to the evdl. Every 2
> minutes that email
> account is checked. Emails are then processed and
> uploaded to
> awardspace.com, making sure that your email
> addresses aren't revealed.
>
> Right now this is a little experimental, and mostly
> for my own personal
> use. Also, because I don't have any real webserver
> to run it on, it's
> going to be unreliable every monday.
>
> But anyways, I thought it was a potentially good
> idea, since it uses a
> BBSish website to manage emails. Tell me if you try
> it out, or find
> anything wrong with it. And definitely tell me if
> you want to host it
> under your domain or know a server I could run the
> updater application on ;)
>
> -Anthony
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Cor,
You did not say if the fuse was in the motor or battery circuit,
though I assume the battery part.
That is right, in series with battery negative, the original factory item in
an orange aluminum electrical box with lots of other small fuses and
terminal blocks for 230VAC.
The fuse likely failed when a component in the controller
failed and caused a short. Apparently the failed component(s)
blew up while also the fuse blew, this could cause more
It seems so, and the fuse blew in the same time as many MOSFETS and diodes
took to short and blow open - how well timed and behaved of them all!
What I don't understand is the reason and mechanism for this failure, at a
time of low stress. I would think that if one MOSFET failed shorted, it
would just carry too much current temporarily taking some load off the
others and after it opened the output current would be reduced by a
fraction. I suspect then that the problem might have started in a diode
and spread from there until the fuse blew. After, when the fuse was
replaced, there was no longer a contagion/avalanche of spikes and the
controller operated "normally" (considering the lesser numper of power parts
still alive and on duty).
There might be some other factor at work, considering the absence of
operating conditions stress. Pehaps a momentary ground fault in the motor
at the same time as a ground fault on the pack wiring, (like at the current
shunt, which I saw for a short while a year ago and it went away when I
moved one cable - the shunt was too inaccessible underneath with the battery
box on top, for a good look at this until the next major work.) A few
months after the controller problem, in early September, the motor quit
after it had been feeling somewhat "rough" and "uneven" (especially in
reverse) when starting moving. It drove fine to the destination, then no
reaction when it was time to drive back home. I tried turning the motor by
moving the car a little and there was still no current draw or movement when
pressing on the pedal. A test with a lamp load showed that the (84V 1221R)
controller was working normally, so I had the car flat-bedded home. I
pushed it in the garage later, for storage for the winter, having no time to
look at it before. I will remove the batteries, battery box and then motor
in the spring when I can get at it when the electric snow blower and other
stuff has been removed out of the way for the season. I am curious about
what the motor looks like and what went wrong (only about 16,000 KM, 10,000
miles, but maybe regen was tough on the brushes) but I have had to supress
my curiosity until a better time, when the PHEV development and winter are
both closer to being finished. Then I can address all issues I can think of
while things are apart and accessible.
Thanks for your recommendation about changing all MOSFETs and diodes, it
sounds wise.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: repair of controller, Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring
diagram
Doug,
You did not say if the fuse was in the motor or battery circuit,
though I assume the battery part.
The fuse likely failed when a component in the controller
failed and caused a short. Apparently the failed component(s)
blew up while also the fuse blew, this could cause more
components to fail due to possible voltage spike.
I recommend to replace ALL mosfets and diodes in the power stage.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> What I will miss most is the tons of kits of specialized little stuff that Ken
> makes available, like the heater relay package with all the snubber
> components,
> and the wiring diagrams that come with his stuff. And I'm not aware of anyone
> with as many kits available, or as much motor data, or battery heater pads. He
> was always willing to discuss your options with you at length, too.
>
> [...snip...]
>
> David Brandt
Everything than Ken sold is still quite available. Go see labshelf.com.
The entire catalog of KTA is there, word for word.
Brian
Electric Alfa Romeo
http://www/skewray.com/alfa
--
Brian M. Sutin, Ph.D. Space System Engineering and Optical Design
Skewray Research/316 W Green St/Claremont CA 91711 USA/(909) 621-3122
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
FYI: http://www.silenceinc.ca/
(I read about this on the EVCO mailing list; I have no interest in the
company.)
The vehicle is built in Quebec and has been available in ICE version
(crotch rocket drivetrain) for some time now. You can see the ICE
version in action in this video clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuo1hezmGKQ
EV version specs (from their web site):
Name
Silence PT2
Model
100 KW +
Dimension of the vehicule
13' length, 6' width, 4' height
Tire Brand
Goodyear
Weight
900 lbs (including battery)
Top speed
More than 125 mph
Autonomie (Range)
125-250 mi
Price ( includes charger)
$60,000 Cdn
It's one sexy vehicle! :D I saw a T-Rex (ICE version of the Silence) in
real life - a black one driving down the main street of the quiet little
city I live in. Talk about a dramatic road presence.
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
there is a person called guv master who has done extensive
conversions .. not yet a production company .. but he has
concepts .. and he has vehicles which are running on
batteries
reva is now focused only on the London market, where there
is a huge tax concession if one drives into London in an EV
reva is not much of a rave in local markets .. tho there IS
some interest .. but a reluctant market doesn't take a liking
for the fibreglass body panels, the very small space in the
back .. for small kids or a little bit of shopping
i talked to some users.. who use the reva as the 2nd car ..
it is okay like
the YO scooter has been developed by a company which
has a huge leverage on electric furnace circuits .. so
they are now trying their hand at a consumer item .. the
electric scooter calle YoByke
there have been efforts to 'develop' ev's .. but mostly
they are screwdriver tech .. import kits, assemble, sell
sources : china
there is one local company selling e-bikes .. about 6,000/- indian
rupees (45 rupees make US$ 1)
----- Original Message -----
From: "sushrut patgaonkar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 3:30 AM
Subject: Fwd: hi from india
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: sushrut patgaonkar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Jan 26, 2007 3:28 AM
> Subject: hi from india
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> hello everyone
>
>
> i am sushrut patgaonkar .
> i am a product design student from india
>
> i am exploring electric vehickles , india has a currently two electric
> vehicles
>
> one is a yo scooter and the reva electric
>
> where can i source plans for building an ev from scratch
>
> another question
>
> in an ev can a motor be directly connected to a generator with 2 battery
> packs ,one runs the motor the other charges the second battery pack, after
> the motor finishes the first pack it can switch to the second pack while
the
> generator charges the first pack so on so forth till both the pack come to
> zero ,,, it can increase the range multi fold
>
> one obvious issue is the weight of carrying cpacity or the weight of the
> second battery pack
>
> any suggestions or feedback is most valued
>
> thank you all
> sushrut
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.10/651 - Release Date: 1/24/2007
6:48 PM
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
this makes a good primer ;-)
..peekay
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: Fwd: hi from india
> At 03:30 AM 26/01/07 +0530, sushrut wrote:
> >in an ev can a motor be directly connected to a generator with 2 battery
> >packs ,one runs the motor the other charges the second battery pack,
after
> >the motor finishes the first pack it can switch to the second pack while
the
> >generator charges the first pack so on so forth till both the pack come
to
> >zero ,,, it can increase the range multi fold
> >
> >one obvious issue is the weight of carrying cpacity or the weight of the
> >second battery pack
> >
> >any suggestions or feedback is most valued
>
> G'day Sushrut
>
> The problem with whay you describe is that you are forgetting that you do
> not get all of the energy back that you put into the batteries - it is
more
> efficient to use the generator power directly to the motive power system
of
> the vehicle.
>
> For a hybrid vehicle that can travel indefinately from generated power,
the
> engine/generator provides the average power to propel the vehicle down the
> road, so *on average*, the vehicle is running from the generated power,
> with the engine running at its' most efficient power settings. When demand
> exceeds supply (hill climbing or acceleration) the batteries supplement
the
> generated power. When generated power exceeds demand (descending a hill or
> slowing down) the excess goes into the batteries.
>
> For a partial hybrid vehicle, where the generator is too small for the
> vehicle, the vehicle uses power from the batteries most of the time. If
the
> generated power is 50% of the energy needed to move the vehicle, the
> vehicle will be using half its' power from the batteries, so will go twice
> as far as if running only on battery power.
>
> The result is not as simple as that, though, as the vehicle is carrying th
e
> extra weight of a generator (which shortens the range) but because the
> batteries are being discharged slower they are working more efficiently
and
> will provide more available energy, so lengthening the range.
>
> If the vehicle is to travel at highway speeds, then an aerodymamic vehicle
> will travel further than a less aerodynamic vehicle, if the land is flat,
> then weight is much less significant than aerodynamics. If the land is
> mountainous, then weight is very significant and needs to be minimised for
> best range.
>
> As for design information, please have a look at
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/ for an idea of what can be done. There
are
> now over 1000 vehicles listed, look to the type of vehicle, the number of
> passengers, load capacity, and so on. Consider your requirements and
decide
> what type of vehicle suits your needs, and if there is a vehicle in the
> album that is near to that. This sets your design parameters, so now you
> can look to the equipment that it will take to achieve your needs.
>
> It is easy to build an electric vehicle, if your needs are very modest. As
> your needs get to be greater, then the job gets harder and more expensive.
> If you have unlimited money, you can build an electric vehicle that is an
> outstanding race car as well as having good range and carrying capacity -
> but I don't know anyone who has done that yet. The closest is probably the
> US$120,000 sports car Tesla roadster.
>
> Hope this helps, and welcome to the list.
>
> Regards
>
> [Technik] James
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.10/651 - Release Date: 1/24/2007
6:48 PM
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
They do make >300w TECs that go for pretty cheap on fleabay. These work very
well and I have used
them before. you could consider these for cooling as well, plenty of people
will tell you that you
cant get good efficiency out of a TEC but I have gotten COP of about 3 with
these.
Look through the CPU cooling parts for some cheap water blocks that will work
well.
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I do see opportunity to combine these threads.
>
> So you have 100F water from the controller and/or water cooled motor. A
> Peltier or HCFC heat pump could use that as the cold sink and raise a
> heatsink temp to 130F or whatever to make cabin heat. This requires
> less electricity than the purely electric heater. In the process the
> water is actively cooled.
>
> Might be hard to justify, it running even 1000W through Peltiers at a
> 30F temp differential requires a lot of modules! Additionally this is
> only one configuration- that heater won't be on during the summer so the
> cooling water needs an alternate way to lose its heat.
>
> Danny
>
> Don Cameron wrote:
>
> >Hi Joe, the water doesn't get hot enough. The motors are quite efficient.
> >Check out http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_CabinHeater.html for more
> >info.
> >
> >
> >Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------
> >See the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
> >
> >Check the EVDL Archives: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive
> >
> >Check out the EV FAQ: www.evparts.com/faq
> >
> >Check out the EV Photo Album: www.evalbum.com
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> >Behalf Of Joe Plumer
> >Sent: January 25, 2007 6:23 AM
> >To: [email protected]
> >Subject: Water cooled AC Motor question...
> >
> >For those of you who are running water cooled AC Motors, does the water
> >circulating through the motor get hot enough to be used for heating the
> >vehicle?
> >
> >Instead of having to take apart the dash and find a replacement heater, the
> >heated water could circulate though the current heater and be used for
> >heating.
> >
> >It wouldn't be much different than a normal car where it takes a few minutes
> >of driving before the water heats up enough to provide any cooling.
> >
> >Just a thought.
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo - buy and sell with people
> >you know
> >http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://exp
> >o.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
usually after to revive a Curtis only diode, mosfet and their resistor gate
have to be changed...sometimes you need more parts :^(
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 7:20 PM
Subject: RE: repair of controller, Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring
diagram
> Doug,
>
> You did not say if the fuse was in the motor or battery circuit,
> though I assume the battery part.
> The fuse likely failed when a component in the controller
> failed and caused a short. Apparently the failed component(s)
> blew up while also the fuse blew, this could cause more
> components to fail due to possible voltage spike.
> I recommend to replace ALL mosfets and diodes in the power stage.
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Doug Hartley
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 10:39 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: repair of controller, Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring
> diagram
>
>
> Hi Lee,
>
> Thanks for your kind offer, I would like to take you up on it.
>
> Only the 120V controller is not working well due to about half the
MOSFETs
>
> and diodes being blown, that I could see when I got the case off. It was
> actually still functioning when I removed it from the car, but with much
> less current output as one would expect. (If some people think a healthy
> 1221 is slow.......) That is the advantage of detecting the current by
the
> voltage drop across the MOSFETS - the remaining ones can still live and do
a
>
> proportionate amount of work as the control circuitry does not blindly
> expect that fewer of them can supply the usual current amount. The fact
> that the controller is still "working" suggests to me that there hopefully
> is not a lot, or anything else, wrong and it is likely to work normally
when
>
> the blown MOSFETs and Diodes are replaced. (I drove the car for a couple
of
> weeks before getting tired of the in-adequate performance and swapped it
out
>
> with the 84V 1221R that had been in the car before.)
>
> I have the MUR2020RG diodes and some better MOSFETS - NTP30N20G 30A 200V -
> that I obtained for the repair, and could supply 25 diodes and 20 MOSFETs.
> What I am lacking is the time and experience, and consequently, somewhat
> lacking the courage to plunge in and tackle this work I didn't do before,
> particularly considering the potting around the 10-pin connector, and the
> way the boards are tied together.
>
> This was a rebuilt 1221R that Gorilla vehicles had sold me. What I don't
> understand is why it failed. It was mounted on a massive 1/4" thick
> aluminum plate with the large Curtis 1231 heat sink, with the heat sink
side
>
> right at the front in the airflow. It never squealed about being hot, or
> felt hot, under the hottest summer conditions. The battery pack voltage
is
> 96V, with the regen voltage pot set to minimum and a regen current limit
pot
>
> in the car and regen on/off switch used to avoid excessive regen current
or
> regen with a full pack. The controller failed under light load, while
> cruising at 30 mph after less than 10 minutes driving. I only noticed
that
> the car started to coast down and would not maintain speed (no bang or
> exciting acceleration). When I got it to the parking lot of the nursing
> home I was going to, (with the last part of the distance pushing it) I saw
> that the special European 200A fuse was blown. I thought the fuse had
> gotten "tired" after all these years and with slightly more current at
times
>
> than the original SCR regen controller had provided. I managed to rig a
> temporary 100A fuse across the terminal bolts, to return home after the
> visit. I didn't even realise there was anything wrong with the controller
> as I was driving home very carefully, starting in first gear, etc., to
> maintain low current drain with my temporary low value fuse. Once I
replaced
>
> the fuse and tried to drive normally, I saw that the controller was "weak"
> and I could barely back the car onto the wheel ramps without taking a
short
> run at it.
>
> Please email me for the arrangements. While I have some loss of
confidence
> in it after this kind of failure, I have nothing else that could work to
> give regen and operate at the higher voltage pushed up by 28 cells of TS
> lithium ion 100 A-hr (November 2004 good ones) helping the 8 DCS-75 AGMs.
> So I would be very glad to have it working again. Thanks for your offer
of
> help with this.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Doug
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 1:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Curtis 1221R regen controller wiring diagram
>
>
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >> Hi Robert,
> >>
> >> I have 3 1221R controllers (2 84V in use at 88 to 96V and 1 120V with
> >> lots of blown FETs & diodes to deal with some time) and the paper copy
of
>
> >> the manual, so I could help you with that tonight when I am home after
> >> work.
> >> Do you have the 10-position Mini-fit Jr. connector shell and contacts
> >> that mates with the socket on this controller?
> >
> > If you can't find anyone else to fix them, I can have a go at it. I just
> > fixed a 1231C, and am fixing a 1221 for Bob Rice, so have some of the
> > oddball parts.
> >
> > --
> > Ring the bells that still can ring
> > Forget the perfect offering
> > There is a crack in everything
> > That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >
>
--- End Message ---
