--- Begin Message ---
Hi There,
One of the EVA DC guys has a RAV4 EV insured through Nationwide. I'll
email you his email address separately.
Nikki.
DC [EMAIL
PROTECTED])¢Ë\¢{Z{~Û×^g¬±¨ ~æjÛ.r¬jvµ§!y×âæ¯qªÝ 3 ~æjÛbâ²Û¶Èì¹çn¢yriÇ ¦ÓË StÈ*.®,¶)à±Ø¬¦V²¶¬ë,j²¢êæj)i®+jh¬lzÛh±éÝ<°51LãKa©Ý籧cºËbMessage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: In California you may moped in bike lanes.
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 00:50:13 -0800
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Reading the California Motorcycle hand book I found this:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl655/dl665mcycle.pdf
You may ride a moped in a bicycle
lane at a reasonable speed. Be
careful of bicyclists using the
lane.
This also means you could run a three wheeled electric golfcart in the bike
lane if it is registered as a moped. Nice little loophole. Lawrence
Rhodes......
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 19:31:56 +1100
To: [email protected]
From: James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DC/DC converter on Ebay
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G'day All
20 amp DC/DC on Ebay, if you've a vehicle that uses less than 20A on the
12V side it may be a cheap deal. Located in Tacoma, Washington, USA. Don't
know anything about it other than what is on their listing:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Newmar-DC-DC-converter-power-supply-12-volt-new-NR-110_W0QQitemZ180076987390QQihZ008QQcategoryZ92078QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Quote:
Newmar is a quality brand of power supply common in the marine industry.
This item is new, Model 110-72-18-ISP takes 80-140 VDC and converts it to
13.6 VDC up to 20 amps.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"SFEVA" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Modified Honda Spree for sale.
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 01:13:19 -0800
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Do not contact Lawrence Rhodes about the scooter. Go to the link below.
Looks good to me. It's in Santa Clara, CA. Lawrence Rhodes...
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/267130711.html
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 04:16:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Controller ratings
To: [email protected]
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
There are continous rating and there are peak rating.
I have been looking at using an Alltrax 7245. The
motor I have is the 30V 400 amp Surplus Aircraft
Generator. evolks.com uses this set up.
The Alltrax peak rate is 450 amps for up to 2 minutes
and a hour rating of 200 amps. Will 200 amps be enough
to run a vehicle?
This is an attempt at Cheap EV. Have a 85 Honda CRX HF
this is going into. 1713 lbs as an ICE.
Was going to build a contact controller but did not
like the price of contactors verses the rating. And at
$125 a pop for the Kilovac @ 200 amp it became almost
same price for a pwm controller. And the SW80's did
not have enough current rating for my tastes.
Anyway back to original question will 200 amps be ok?
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Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient heating)
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 07:48:33 -0500
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
In my EV I plan to use a heat pump. I thought a portable heat/air
system could be modified to work. The one I was looking at was a
portable 10,000 BTU unit from Newegg that has heat also. Here is the
link. The unit could be disassembled and fit into the car where the old
heater system used to reside. It also comes with digital controls. It
pulls about 7 amps at 115V which should be fairly easy to do from an AC
inverter. It could also be possible to change the motor to a DC one and
run it straight off the pack voltage.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16896136008&ATT=96-13
6-008&CMP=OTC-Froogle
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 13:08
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient
heating)
On 25 Jan 2007 at 8:37, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G wrote:
> I believe the Toyota Prius uses
> a heat pump system.
No, it doesn't; but the GM EV1 did. One of the many items from that
project that GM >could< have recycled for EV hobbyists instead of
crushing - and made a little money on - if they had cared.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want
to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = =
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the
webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: efficient heating
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 08:59:52 -0500
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Are you sure it's an actual heat pump when used for heating? It doesn't say.
Maybe it's just resistive heating.
I also found these conversions on the evalbum with a heat pump:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/701
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/378
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/338.html "Heater/AC is QUITE effective.
Additional heat provided by watercooled motor/inverter."
Hey, I thought you guys just said there isn't much heat from the water??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:48 AM
Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient heating)
> In my EV I plan to use a heat pump. I thought a portable heat/air
> system could be modified to work. The one I was looking at was a
> portable 10,000 BTU unit from Newegg that has heat also. Here is the
> link. The unit could be disassembled and fit into the car where the old
> heater system used to reside. It also comes with digital controls. It
> pulls about 7 amps at 115V which should be fairly easy to do from an AC
> inverter. It could also be possible to change the motor to a DC one and
> run it straight off the pack voltage.
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16896136008&ATT=96-13
> 6-008&CMP=OTC-Froogle
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of David Roden
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 13:08
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient
> heating)
>
> On 25 Jan 2007 at 8:37, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G wrote:
>
>> I believe the Toyota Prius uses
>> a heat pump system.
>
> No, it doesn't; but the GM EV1 did. One of the many items from that
> project that GM >could< have recycled for EV hobbyists instead of
> crushing - and made a little money on - if they had cared.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want
> to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = =
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the
> webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 06:12:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
To: [email protected]
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm insured with AllState. It is a cash value policy,
so that if I'm hit, I get the 8500 the EV is worth,
not the 3000 KBB price for a used gas-burning 92
Civic. It's about the same cost, and all I needed to
do was prove how much I paid for it. THe point:
a) Can you live w/o getting your full price?
b) Did you save your receipts?
peace,
--- Aaron Quinto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That must be the "don't ask, don't tell" policy? :)
>
> Although, since you brought it up, does anyone have
> their EV insured
> through Nationwide? If so, would you mind sharing
> (or sending me an
> off-list e-mail) of your agent's name and number so
> my Nationwide
> agent can talk to them?
>
>
> Aaron Quinto
> aaron at quintonet.com
> http://www.quintonet.com/qev1/
>
>
> At 02:23 AM 01/26/2007, you wrote:
> >Allstate
> >
> >No problem, didn't even want to know/care that it
> is electric.
> >
> >respectfully,
> >John
> >
> >The Skunk, 58 HD Servicar conversion
> >http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751
> >
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry McIntire"
>
> ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 10:02 PM
> >Subject: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
> >
> >
> >>I know this has been covered, but I've done a
> couple searches in the
> >>archives and haven't found any insurance companies
> mentioned as
> >>writing EV insurance other than The Hartford.
> Some others people are
> >>insured with?
> >>Thanks,
> >>Jerry
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 07:14:33 -0700
From: Sam Maynard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
I specifically told Progressive it was electric. They make no
distinction between electric, ICE, or Hybrid. Treated like any other
licensable car.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
From: Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, January 25, 2007 10:02 pm
To: [email protected]
I know this has been covered, but I've done a couple searches in the
archives and haven't found any insurance companies mentioned as
writing EV insurance other than The Hartford. Some others people are
insured with?
Thanks,
Jerry
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Subject: RE: efficient heating
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 09:26:00 -0500
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
The actual cooling water of the zilla isn't enough to heat the cabin.
If you want to supplement the heating of the zilla with some more heat
you could use it to heat the cabin. I would be afraid to heat the water
more though if it is used to cool the zilla. Basically you would have to
heat the water to about 200 degrees to be as effective as the ICE's
heating system used to be. At that temperature you would surely fry the
zilla. Maybe use a jacuuzi heating element to heat water off of the
pack voltage. That would be about 10 amps at 120 volts. You would also
need a water pump which I think would use another 10 amps or so. Keep
the water segregated from the zilla cooling water. Maybe a totally
separate system for the heater would be better.
The bottom example using Peltiers I would think would be quite
innefficient.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dmitri
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:00
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: efficient heating
Are you sure it's an actual heat pump when used for heating? It doesn't
say.
Maybe it's just resistive heating.
I also found these conversions on the evalbum with a heat pump:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/701
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/378
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/338.html "Heater/AC is QUITE effective.
Additional heat provided by watercooled motor/inverter."
Hey, I thought you guys just said there isn't much heat from the water??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:48 AM
Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient
heating)
> In my EV I plan to use a heat pump. I thought a portable heat/air
> system could be modified to work. The one I was looking at was a
> portable 10,000 BTU unit from Newegg that has heat also. Here is the
> link. The unit could be disassembled and fit into the car where the
old
> heater system used to reside. It also comes with digital controls.
It
> pulls about 7 amps at 115V which should be fairly easy to do from an
AC
> inverter. It could also be possible to change the motor to a DC one
and
> run it straight off the pack voltage.
>
>
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16896136008&ATT=96-13
> 6-008&CMP=OTC-Froogle
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On
> Behalf Of David Roden
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 13:08
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient
> heating)
>
> On 25 Jan 2007 at 8:37, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G
wrote:
>
>> I believe the Toyota Prius uses
>> a heat pump system.
>
> No, it doesn't; but the GM EV1 did. One of the many items from that
> project that GM >could< have recycled for EV hobbyists instead of
> crushing - and made a little money on - if they had cared.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want
> to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = =
=
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the
> webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
From: "luis.a.marquez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 09:27:33 -0500
Message-ID:
<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKlQOS1pG+JJkS+v4aDdCPTCgAAAEAAAAP9Flazyu+tHqm9xP6/[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>
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Any one had experience with the process of import an electric car?
Thanks,
Luis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sam Maynard
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
I specifically told Progressive it was electric. They make no
distinction between electric, ICE, or Hybrid. Treated like any other
licensable car.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Insurance companies writing EV policies?
From: Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, January 25, 2007 10:02 pm
To: [email protected]
I know this has been covered, but I've done a couple searches in the
archives and haven't found any insurance companies mentioned as
writing EV insurance other than The Hartford. Some others people are
insured with?
Thanks,
Jerry
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: efficient heating
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 07:36:49 -0700
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I found that when using electric hot water heat or resistance heater in the
same heater core area in a vehicle, it is best to rework the incoming
ambient air ducts and change it to a circulatory system.
I at first used a 2500 watt 240 v engine heater design for a semi and any
time it was below 0, I had to crank the water temperature to 210 degrees F
for defrosting the windshield.
Remember that a engine coolent temperature can get over 250 degrees F. and
out side air is use to temper it. So I adjusted the doors that brought in
the outside air and rework the duct so the cab air would circulated back
through the heater.
Now, the water temperature only has to get to 50 degrees to start defrosting
the windshield. I change this water heating unit to a 120 V 1000 watt
engine heating unit, and it works just fine as a defroster.
For cab heating, I use two small 640 watt 120 v ceramic under dash cab
heaters, that I got from a auto parts store. They are tuck way back and
mounted on the firewall. These units only need to be on for about 5 minutes
when its between 0 to 30 degrees.
If its below 0 degrees, I then preheat with the plug in power by using a
transfer selector switch.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: efficient heating
> Are you sure it's an actual heat pump when used for heating? It doesn't
> say.
> Maybe it's just resistive heating.
>
>
> I also found these conversions on the evalbum with a heat pump:
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/701
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/378
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/338.html "Heater/AC is QUITE effective.
> Additional heat provided by watercooled motor/inverter."
> Hey, I thought you guys just said there isn't much heat from the water??
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:48 AM
> Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient heating)
>
>
> > In my EV I plan to use a heat pump. I thought a portable heat/air
> > system could be modified to work. The one I was looking at was a
> > portable 10,000 BTU unit from Newegg that has heat also. Here is the
> > link. The unit could be disassembled and fit into the car where the old
> > heater system used to reside. It also comes with digital controls. It
> > pulls about 7 amps at 115V which should be fairly easy to do from an AC
> > inverter. It could also be possible to change the motor to a DC one and
> > run it straight off the pack voltage.
> >
> > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16896136008&ATT=96-13
> > 6-008&CMP=OTC-Froogle
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of David Roden
> > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 13:08
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: RE: LED, HID, and other conservative lights? (efficient
> > heating)
> >
> > On 25 Jan 2007 at 8:37, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G wrote:
> >
> >> I believe the Toyota Prius uses
> >> a heat pump system.
> >
> > No, it doesn't; but the GM EV1 did. One of the many items from that
> > project that GM >could< have recycled for EV hobbyists instead of
> > crushing - and made a little money on - if they had cared.
> >
> >
> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> > EV List Administrator
> >
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want
> > to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> > switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = =
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> > To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the
> > webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 06:53:58 -0800
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As a licensed electrical contractor, I agree with your tirade against poor
wiring practices currently being considered standard. Unfortunately, it
isn't just wiring in residences that is subgrade these days - spec housing
carpentry, framing especially, and every other trade seem to be doing the
same thing; getting as much money as possible while cutting corners as much
as they can!
And the inspectors either don't catch it, or are paid off, or something,
because no one objects - until the home buyer finds out he's been ripped
off.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
> Actually, here is another viewpoint.
>
> I have lived and worked on many homes over my years(standard Disclaimer
> applies) even wired 4 of them and Recently I bought a new home, had it
> built and paid extra for a panel upgrade, 100A service dropped in the
> garage and the extra plugs and lighting. ( I have never been more
> disappointed)
>
> At least in this area houses in the 70's,80's and early 90's all had #12
> as a minimum wire size. This meant 20A 115V circuits.
> Even after all my belly achaing and paying upcharges I am very
> dissasified with the wiring in my new home. Sure it looks like a lot of
> breakers but when you discount all the required by law GFI seperate
> breakers dedicated to the kitchen and bath only, you are left with 1
> breaker covering all ceiling lights and non-gfi plugs in the kitchen, Tv
> room and garage (Thank God I had a sub panel dropped) The first time I
> plugged in the PFC and turned it up to 5 battery amps (<10A from wall) I
> popped that breaker.
> I later found that 1 more breaker powers EVERYTHING in the familyroom
> and bedroom and back bathroom. When my new Air Conditioner broke and
> they wanted $1100 for a PWM driven 1/10 HP condensor fan motor, I
> bought a window AC unit. Yeah, right. If I want AC I have to walk thru
> and shut off all lights and my computer first.
> I knew a lot of electricians in the time i was working on houses and
> this type of wireing is legal but unconscionable. The panel is good for
> 200 Amps but that would be 13 15Amp circuits and there isn't even that
> (For those who don't know usually the breaker maxs add up to more than
> the master becuase you don't use everthing at once. )
> The #14 wire is also just to damn weak and some plugs were not screwed
> down tight i think and useing the plugs 2 or 3 times and the wire breaks
> off at the back of the plug. 3 failed already and one I will have to
> rip out the wall because the @[EMAIL PROTECTED] didn't leave enough to work
> with in
> the box.
>
> It use to be illegal to use push in on #14 for that reason, that seems
> to be ok(legal) now.
>
> To bring this back to EV's, The most current wireing laws have been
> severly compromised, at least in this county, in the last 10-15 years.
> If EV's and even plug in hybrids do become the norm we could start
> having some problems. I would recommend people have a dedicated plug
> wired in. If you are luck the panel is on the garage side, this is not
> bad. The standard 115V plug in my garage used daily for an EV without
> plugging and unplugging the extension cord from it, quit working after 3
> months of service limited to 12A max on a 15 amp service. It seems the
> rateings are "harbor freight" rateings, ie peak not continous.
>
> Pull to hard on a #14 wire and it becomes #16 really really easy, no
> margin for error.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.11/652 - Release Date: 1/25/2007
3:32 PM
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 06:55:21 -0800
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Actually, knob and tube wiring is safer than romex, because of the distance
the wires are separated.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
> Arizona.
>
> FWIW I looked at one house here about 6 years ago that still had Knob and
> Tubing wiring. That one was definitely out because that is one thing the
> VA definitely cares about. They don't care about service panel size (at
> least not around here) but you can NOT get a VA loan on a house with knob
> and tubing.
>
> > peter what state are you in ??? I have a masters lic in minnesota north
> > dokota and wisc . and I had a reg journeymans lic in tex . before I
moved
> > north . I belive every work in this email you wrote but ur state is
> > really backword !!!!!
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Peter VanDerWal<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:47 PM
> > Subject: Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
> >
> >
> >
> > > We're getting off topic here, but I might mention that the US
> > differences
> > > are not that wide any more, if they ever were. It's rare today to
> > > encounter
> > > 120v only residential service. When you do it's an ancient
> > installation
> > > in
> > > a home purchased 20 or more years ago, before mortgage lenders and
> > > insurance
> > > carriers started insisting on updates to "systems." I doubt that
any
> > home
> > > sale would go through today without an upgrade of such a system.
> >
> > I just bought a house 6 months ago with 120V only service. Nobody
> > blinked
> > an eye and the inspector didn't care about the service size. Nor did
the
> > bank/insurance company.
> > In fact, I bought a house a little over a year ago that had most of
the
> > outlets ungrounded (they were 3 prong, but only two conductor wiring).
> > The inspector noted this, but the bank didn't care, nor did the
> > insurance
> > company.
> > I fixed most of them myself before I rented it, but just for my own
> > peace
> > of mind.
> >
> > Personally I don't see why an insurance company, or bank, would care
> > that
> > a home doesn't have 220V service. Seems to me they would think it was
> > safer.
> >
> > > Also, here in the states code requires GFIs for outside 120v
recepts.
> >
> > Only on new construction. All but my newest house came with outside
> > outlets without GFCI protection. In fact two of them didn't even have
> > it
> > in the kitchens and bathrooms.
> > Again, nobody cared and the inspector only notes if the GFCI
> > works...when
> > it's installed. If it's not installed, that part of the check list
just
> > says NA.
> >
> > FWIW the newest house (12 years old) has a 220V outside outlet
(sauna?)
> > but it's not GCFI, at least not that I can tell.
> >
> > Some states might be more picky about this, but obviously not all of
> > them.
> >
> > The moral is, check before you plug in your EV, or buy that older
home.
> > If you care about GFCI or service panel size, make it a condition of
the
> > sale.
> >
> > --
> > If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> > junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do
whatever
> > I
> > wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your
long
> > legalistic signature is void.
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.11/652 - Release Date: 1/25/2007
3:32 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
