EV Digest 6618
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) city car brushes
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Motor recommendations
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Reverse rotation
by "Orlando Ferrassoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: May C&D Article on White Zombie
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Flippin' Good Fun... A cationary tale
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Reverse rotation
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Making way too much out of welding small cells together
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Killing my batteries! HELP!
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Killacycle does 8.30 sec 153 MPH 1/4 mile first run out
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Fwd: Anyone want to climb Mt. Washington?
by Tom Gocze <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: city car brushes
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Manzanita Micro Mark 3 battery regulators
by Jake Oshins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, said to work
well?
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Motor temp
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, sai
d to work well?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Reverse rotation
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Motor temp
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Killacycle does 8.30 sec 153 MPH 1/4 mile first run out
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Killing my batteries! HELP!
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: city car brushes
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Reverse rotation
by "Orlando Ferrassoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, said
to work well?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Killacycle does 8.30 sec 153 MPH 1/4 mile first run out
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Arc Flash & Ark Blast Warning !!!!!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
I got a city car to work on , it runs but the motor was getting hot ,, I looked
at the brushes and two where just falling apart in the holders . the holder was
holding the cracked peices together .. com looked good , no sigh of a lifted
com bar . I replaced with some golf cart motor brushes that looked the same
size , thing runs about the same , but cooler . what would make the brushes do
this , the other two looked good .. I noticed that the bursh holder was a
little lose ,, like maybe from brunning backing
I found myself likeing this little ev the more I drove it and after setting up
a new go pebble ...
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am coming in late on this conversation so I don't know what the donor
is, but I will add that a single 9 is fine up to a total vehicle weight
of about 3500lbs. After that it seems to be in the adequate but not
impressive category. I have a converted 300zx (going through withdrawal
this weekend, i just pulled all the batteries to send them in for
analysis) When I had 17 batteries (816 lbs of lead) it had an
impressive acceleration profile but a shorter range than I needed. When
I bumped it up to 24 batteries(1152 lbs of lead) The impressiveness
wore off at about 1 mile. As soon as the pack dropped a little, it was
unsatisfying. The Wh/mile jumped up and the range didn't increase as
much as I like. Maybe it is the gearing, but I think the amp draw went
up more with the weight than the torque did and thus pukert made this
gain doubly less linear. Some of this is haveing tasted it with less
weight, and some is the observation that it is faster than it feels. But
as soon as I can sort out the battery issue, dual 9"s are on the
schedule. (PS it weights 4050 lbs right now.)
I am designing a new battery for it, But don't know if I can ever get
enough money together to do it, I like to design stuff.
A123 cells welded together in modules with my own BMS. If I do swing
this, this list will be the first to know as I will want some racers to
test my AGM killer.
Plan currently is this module is the footprint of exide orbital but an
inch or two taller. The modules will be re-configurable for [EMAIL PROTECTED] or
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or 19.8V*55ah to suit different system needs. Obviously this
is geared towards the converter market.
The point is each module would be 22lbs of batteries and 5lbs of
interconnects yielding about a 32lb module. 15 of these modules would
weight less than 500 lbs and yield a useable true 13kwh. I am sure I
would get back to about 350wh/mile with the 600+ loss in weight and
should give me a 35 mile range. That takes care of 99% of my driving!
Nobody hold their breath.
but....
Which would you people prefer 30 sec 500A and maybe 10sec 1000A
capability at 30lb module
or 30sec 1000A capacity and 2000A 10sec capability at a 35lb module.
in a 15 module system we are talking 450lbs vs 525bs, but on a 24Module
System we are talking 720Lbs vs 840Lbs.
I have never been able to pull more than 500 battery Amps so I don't if
this is an issue to folks.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gentlemen, need your help.
I am working on a small ev project. I would like to know if it is possible
to reverse the rotation of the motor. It is a 120 volt, 10 amps skill hand
saw motor 2 1/3 hp. It rotates counterclockwise, but I need it to rotate
clockwise where I would like to mount it. Is there any hope? Thanks !
Orlando S. Ferrassoli
Operations
Ph: 661 273-2220
Ph: 800 778-5678
Fx: 661 273-2221
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
website: www.freight-ways.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Robert Lemke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I also purchased C&D for a year to see this article.
> I used to read C&D for about 20 years and they do
> have a talented staff. With this in mind I was
> curious how they would present an area of the EV
> community without annoying their major advertisers.
> Well they did it. No mention of practicality, range,
> or anything mentioned for potential EV consumers.
> This article was written in a way that would not
> detract interest of the general motoring public away
> from fossil fueled transportation. I'm certain the
> Portland EV'ers mentioned the importance of EV's for
> the well being of planet Earth along with allowing
> the end user the choice and cost of "fuel".
Hey Bob, all
As someone who was there it's pretty accurate of what
it's like going to a juice bar weekend. Surely not a
tech write up but more a day in the life of an EV
racer, or Waylands World which EVer you prefer 8^)
Now here's a guy Ted West who just drove a 4 million
dollar car the article before. Now I don't think I
could write "anything" positive about "anything" I
drove after driving a car like that 8^P Anyway for
someone to come on out hang with the guys, drive the
car "himself" and to write up such an awesome article
and then for the editors to print it is a huge plus
for EV fans!
Having built EV motors (battery forklifts) for 25 yrs
I never had someone ask me about building a car with a
motor. Since Wayland got me into this I find the
intrest is overwelming! EV's will need to perform
before they will be excepted by the average Joe, and
that goes for range also. At least here we get to
show off a little of what electrics can do. These
aren't your grandma's EV's. More a move over and let
the big dog eat kinda guys and gear.
Todays EV racers aren't able to out do the all out
gassers but you must not see what I see when I attend
an EVent. What the team needs to do is when the
racers draw them in that guys like you are there to
hammer the issues. I'm horse after a two day EVent
from talking to the general public! I'll tell you if
you want to talk to people about electrics the race is
the place 8^) Least out west it is.
Now Jeff I agree with you that again not a tech piece.
A grey tube with a 4' shaft is not the most poetic
way to describe my motor but hey the guys not an
AmpHead 8^P I believe it'd been fun for them to have
described how many houses Johns car could light up
when's sucking amps 8^) beyond that most wouldn't
understand it. For those who want more they list
Johns site where people can begin their EV journey if
they so choose. Again not what the article was about.
You know I've seen a tendency for EV'ers to be their
own worst critics! It's you guys who sometimes seem
hardest to please and or impress EVen if it's "not"
the perfect buy it for a dollar last forever do all
EV!
Anyway just my take on it.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry to hear about your mishap. While that design being 1F 2R and so
long and skinny is tough to work with, I wonder how much stability could
be added by moving the rear wheels out about 4 inches on each side, then
placing some cute little external fenders out their over them. Maybe
the wheels are so skinny that the added air resistance would be minimal.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Orlando and All,
Orlando Ferrassoli wrote:
I would like to know if it is possible
to reverse the rotation of the motor. It is a 120 volt, 10 amps skill hand
saw motor 2 1/3 hp. It rotates counterclockwise, but I need it to rotate
clockwise where I would like to mount it. Is there any hope?
Short answer...no. That motor is a series-wound type, also known a s a
universal type, because it can run on AC or DC. In the application it
was created for, there was never a need to reverse its rotation, thus
one of the armature connections and one of the field connections are
tied together 'inside' the motor. In order to reverse a series wound
motor, you have to have access to both armature connections (brushes)
and both field connections, so you can reverse either the field or
armature connections in relation to each other. If you can't get to the
inside field-to-armature tie point, you won't be able to reverse this motor.
Hope this helps.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
8 hours is ok but 1000 welds give only 250 cells assembly (4s weld per cell)
or 500 cells (2 welds/cell)
Soldering need only 1 contact which take 1 to 2 second and give 14000 or
28000 cells soldered during 8 hours :^)
I'm not sur welding is the only way to go...
Cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait du volant, quel carburant choisiriez-vous
?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Powers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "ev" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 4:11 PM
Subject: Making way too much out of welding small cells together
Welding is the way to go, but it doesn't cost $20k. Used equipment can be
had right now for $2000 (old models) - $9000 (top of the line). I even
found a complete system (used) for only $1700. You can also lease
equipment.
I can do 500 - 1000 welds (and thats after years of being out of the
industry) in an 8 hour shift, so it really isn't that big of a deal. It
can be done, its just a matter of cost of the cells that need to be
welded.
For me, I am limiting my discharge current to 25 A / string, so I can
still somewhat reliably make 7 cell sticks with no welds / pure mechanical
compression joints. These are then wired into 84 cell modules ... I don't
have a welder anymore, so I am making do with what is available.
Steve
---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The SCS 225 have a 6 month free replacement and a 36 month prorated
warranty.
The 8 Volt T-875 also has the same warranty.
The 6 Volt T-105 has the 12 month free replacement and 24 month prorated
warranty.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: Killing my batteries! HELP!
> It's the type of battery I'm afraid to say. I have Trojan 30XHS's in my
> Saturn, 12 of them, which are the same battery internally as the SCS225.
> They just do not hold up for such use. I had 4 of my 12 replaced in the
> first year under warranty, they just dropped cells despite specific
> gravity showing fine. I'm almost 2 years in to the pack and they are
> absolutely shot, I only have 3 of the original 12 in the car and I've been
> lucky enough to get enough secondhand used batteries out of GEM cars to
> keep mine going.
>
> I know, they probably looked good on paper initially, but they just don't
> hold up. They probably really shouldn't be discharged at over 150 amps and
> no more than 75 continuously. They work good in a GEM at 25mph, but not in
> a highway capable car.
>
> I have a plan in my head, I'm going to 8-volt golf cart batteries when I
> have time this summer to pull the car apart. I should have a lot better
> range and cycle life.
>
> One other thing, you said you were replacing them and paying for them?
> They do have a 1 year free replacement warranty.
>
> Rick Suiter
> 92 Saturn SC
> AZ Alt fuel plate "ZEROGAS"
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Hello All,
>
> I have been driving my conversion now for about 6 months. It can be
> seen
> here:
>
> <_www.austinev.org/evalbum/887_ (http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/887) >
>
> I drive about 6 miles one-way to work and back and around town. I
> charge at
> home and at the office. No more than 15 miles between charges, and I
> always
> have the car plugged in if it sits overnight. It has ten, 12 Volt
> SCS-225 Trojan
> batteries that I bought new in September of 2006 for a total system
> voltage
> of 120VDC. It has a properly programmed Zivan NG3 on-board charger.
> While
> driving, I never surge below 10.5 volts per battery or 105 Pack Volts.
> I
> usually try to stay under 300 Battery Amps Draw, unless I nearly get
> run over in
> traffic. The trouble is I have apparently Killed 3 batteries in the
> first three
> months...they just would not hold a charge any longer. The dealer
> replaced
> them. Then, last night, I noticed one of the recently replaced
> batteries was
> hot and had reversed a cell. Now that makes 4, $110 batteries in 6
> months! At
> this rate, I can't afford to drive this little car for very long. WHAT
> AM I
> DOING WRONG HERE? Is there something I am missing? I thought I would
> at LEAST
> get 2 years out of this pack. I have only put 1900 miles on these
> batteries
> in 6 months. Any input is greatly appreciated. HELP!
>
> David
> Ratliffgrp AT AOL DOT COM
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
Well it's official Steve just called and Killacycle
just blew a 8.22 sec @ 155 MPH 1/4 mile run 8^0
The guys are pumped! They're gonna leave EVerything
alone and see what the next run brings and then crank
it up. Looks like the 7's are well within reach if the
boys can get the track time in today.
Anyway great reports of Killacycle eating up lots of
track in record time 8^)
Anyway he sounded like they were just getting warmed
up 8^)
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
One proud daddy
(shut up Mike 8^)
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Lyle,
Yes, he still has it along with a bunch of other vehicles that would
make us all green.
He is planning an alternative transportation museum up here in Maine.
I believe I am on the board. As with most things in Maine, we do not
hold regular meetin's.
Tom
Tom,
Your friend's picture is still floating around the
web. Infact it is on the historical site of
Corbin-Gentry Electric Motorcycle.
http://www.mgmojo.com/corbinmotors/chapter3.html
BTW does Charlie Macarthur still have the motorcycle
and could you get me in contact with him via a e-mail
address?
Lyle Sloan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Steve
Were the two bad brushes 90 or 180 degrees?
Jim
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I got a city car to work on , it runs but the motor
> was getting hot ,, I looked at the brushes and two
> where just falling apart in the holders . the holder
> was holding the cracked peices together .. com
> looked good , no sigh of a lifted com bar . I
> replaced with some golf cart motor brushes that
> looked the same size , thing runs about the same ,
> but cooler . what would make the brushes do this ,
> the other two looked good .. I noticed that the
> bursh holder was a little lose ,, like maybe from
> brunning backing
> I found myself likeing this little ev the more I
> drove it and after setting up a new go pebble ...
> steve clunn
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is an open letter to Rich and Joe. I'm sending it here so that
others may be able to answer my questions too. I recently took delivery
of a set of Mark 3 (digital) regs and I'm having trouble understanding
them. (Actually I took delivery about two months ago. But I have two
kids under four and it takes me a while to get around to things like
this.)
Here's a list of questions that weren't adequately clear to me from
reading your web site.
1) What do each of the LEDs indicate? I connected a reg to a battery
and the purple LED lit up. Is that the same as the red LED on a Mark 2
reg? I put a load on the battery and brought it all the way down to
about 10.2V and no LEDs changed. Is this because the purple LED is the
low-voltage LED?
2) What do each of the connectors do?
3) Which of the dongles that came with the set is necessary for
querying the regs through an RS-232 connection? Do I need both the one
with the DIN-9 connector *and* the one with the EVil bus wires? If so,
how do they get wired?
4) In general, how does one connect the dongles? To any regbus
connector? To other pins on the reg?
5) Do you need to plug the RS-232 dongle into any particular reg? #1?
Do you need to have #1 in the string to get #N to work? Do you have to
have all of them sequentially? I just pulled a random reg out of the
box and connected to it and never got it to respond.
6) If I need to care which reg is which, how do I tell them apart?
Some have numbers on them and some don't. Is there a command that will
make a LED on a particular reg flash for identification?
7) What baud rate are they set at? (Examining the basic program on the
site suggests 2400-N-8-1. Is this the only value set to use?
8) Is there a command to get any reg (assuming you have only one
connected) to display its address?
9) What is the exact pinout of the RS-232 dongle? Should I be using a
straight-through serial cable? If so, is the dongle a "device" endpoint
or a "host" endpoint? Should I use a null-modem cable, or just a simple
cross-over cable? Which pins must be implemented in the cable itself?
10) How do people typically install this reg string? Do they leave the
dongle(s) permanently mounted? Is there any reason not to?
Thanks,
Jake Oshins
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, said to work well?
Someone said that they built a voltage regulator that handled 5A or more, for
only $8 in parts, can be built from a proto board. Does anybody have the plans
for this?
The only caveat was that a heat sink would have to put on top of one of the
parts, I'm informed.
Thanks in advance.
---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:02 AM 31/03/07 -0700, Andrew Kane wrote:
Well, I'm just another lurker newbie with nothing solid to contribute,
but as long as I'm giving props to Mr. Wayland and Mr. Husted, I may as well
cheer for you too: this is exactly the kind of post I *love* to see and I'll
be very interested to peruse the data when they become available. Mr.
Massey, you too are THE MAN!
Thanks Andrew, now you'll get me a swelled head like Jim and John...
The reality is with a lot of this stuff I'm just a 'hack', having a go.
Admittedly 20-odd years of experience in industrial electronics,
instrumentation and control with a lot of fixing the "unfixable" gives me a
leg-up over other hackers. But it doesn't give me the 'EV' hacking
experience, so after 5 years (or more) of being "seriously" into EVs I'm
still a wannabe with a project underway and a lot of EV 'bits".
This Maritime College motor isn't the kind of job I'd normally go to too
much trouble over, but it has to be "techy" as it is academia, so how do
you make a series DC motor "techy"?
The simple answer for me is to sensor the heck out of it! I've got some
thermocouple primary wire on its' way (the type of wire that thermocouples
are made from, not to be confused with extension or compensation wire used
to connect thermocouple assemblies back to the instrument). The wire I've
got coming is Teflon insulated so the isulation should be fine up against a
hot brush holder.
I'm going to look today and see if there is enough space on top of the
commutator risers to put a pair of slip rings and if so I may be able to
give them a rotor temp sensor. There is an alternative to drill the back
end of the rotor and put a sensor in there packed in grease, but that will
show shaft temp, where I'm looking to get them winding temp. I'd be
supprised if I can find a way on this motor to get from the back end of the
motor through the insulation of the commutator and out into the winding
area. Sticking a stub shaft in with a set of alternator brushes and slip
rings will get a sensor off the shaft, but getting past the commutator is
an issue.
I'll certainly report the results.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Robert,
No doubt others will respond as well.
This afternoon I am actually back to the design of my clamper/monitor
(So I need to keep this short) which will monitor over- and under-
voltage of a pair of batteries (if you want to save components) and
can regulate the battery with the over-voltage signal.
I currently design it to be in the 14V range, temp compensated.
How much current depends indeed only on the heatsinking.
I use the battery terminal and don't like more than 1/2 A (7W) into
the terminal for an extended period, to avoid overheating it.
With a heatsink (carries battery voltage if the power FET is
screwed directly onto it!) you can get as many current as you like,
though at a certain point there is no added benefit if you have
less than 1 Ah unbalance per charge cycle and you can regulate
1 Ah away with 2 hours of controlled end-charging having only
1/2 Amp regulators.
Anyway, I need to get back to the breadboard to test my design;
I'll post it here when I have seen it work well.
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of robert mat
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 4:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, said to
work well?
Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter, said to work well?
Someone said that they built a voltage regulator that handled 5A or more,
for only $8 in parts, can be built from a proto board. Does anybody have the
plans for this?
The only caveat was that a heat sink would have to put on top of one of the
parts, I'm informed.
Thanks in advance.
---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:48 PM 31/03/07 -0800, John Wayland wrote:
Hello Orlando and All,
Orlando Ferrassoli wrote:
I would like to know if it is possible
to reverse the rotation of the motor. It is a 120 volt, 10 amps skill hand
saw motor 2 1/3 hp. It rotates counterclockwise, but I need it to rotate
clockwise where I would like to mount it. Is there any hope?
Short answer...no. That motor is a series-wound type, also known a s a
universal type, because it can run on AC or DC. In the application it was
created for, there was never a need to reverse its rotation, thus one of
the armature connections and one of the field connections are tied
together 'inside' the motor. In order to reverse a series wound motor, you
have to have access to both armature connections (brushes) and both field
connections, so you can reverse either the field or armature connections
in relation to each other. If you can't get to the inside
field-to-armature tie point, you won't be able to reverse this motor.
G'day John, Orlando and All
John, if he is making an EV project with a skill saw motor, then he's a
'hack' having a go. Let's encourage the interest, rather than say "no"
let's say "maybe".
In order to reverse a series wound motor you need to get at the wires where
they go into the brushes, in my limited experience of power tool repairs
you should be able to get at the brush holder wires, often they are just on
with spade connectors or some other push on connection, other times they
are on by being crimped to part of the holder. I don't recall being into a
Skill saw, so I can't give you a specific. You should be able to get at the
wires, cut and join onto them and reverse the connections.
Now here is likely to be the real problem, in the brushes are quite likely
advanced for the direction of rotation, look at the brushes where they sit
(usually straight across or up-and-down in the saw body). Look at the
windings and see if they are turned in the body. If it is then they are
advanced and your motor will not like to run the other way, without turning
the brushes or windings to be offset on the "other side" of the rotated
position. It will run, but not efficiently and will get hot.
OK, if it is sitting square in the body, now look at the output gear. The
end of the shaft probably has a helical gear cut into it that drives the
reduction for the blade arbour. In its' 'normal' direction it either pushes
or pulls the rotor due to this helical cut. If it pulled, it will push now,
and vice-versa. Check that the body has some means of taking this end force.
If you have got this far, be aware that the switch on the saw is not rated
for DC and will fail the first time you go to turn it off - you will need a
DC rated switch or contactor to do the job.
And once past that, have fun with your project! (What is it, BTW, assisted
bicycle, scooter...?)
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EV Parts sells these-
To 400F
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=1483
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=1493
To 700F
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=1491
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=1497
Yes, It IS a "live" connection.
But the brushes are where the heat is. It lets you know what is up -right
now-
Can be safe if installed correctly.
~~~~~~
Roy LeMeur
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglinemarch07
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jim, This is just fantastic! I guess your upgrades allowed them to
squeeze a bit more out of the motors. Incredibly great times that no one can
argue with, not even the Harley boys at the event. Let's see, could
electrics be the new macho image for the motorcycle crowd. Maybe not now,
but don't count it out just yet. It may be sooner than you think. My
congratulations to the Killacycle crew on this new mind altering
accomplishment! First Car and Driver and now this all in one week. 2007 is
sure shaping up to be a premiere year for EV drag racing.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Killacycle does 8.30 sec 153 MPH 1/4 mile first run out
Hey all
Well it's official Steve just called and Killacycle
just blew a 8.22 sec @ 155 MPH 1/4 mile run 8^0
The guys are pumped! They're gonna leave EVerything
alone and see what the next run brings and then crank
it up. Looks like the 7's are well within reach if the
boys can get the track time in today.
Anyway great reports of Killacycle eating up lots of
track in record time 8^)
Anyway he sounded like they were just getting warmed
up 8^)
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
One proud daddy
(shut up Mike 8^)
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--- Begin Message ---
On 31 Mar 2007 at 16:47, Roland Wiench wrote:
> warranty ...
I've found that the warranty on a battery means very little to us as EV
hobbyists. It suggests how long a battery might last in typical service.
But road EV use is far from typical service.
I'm always surprised when I read here that someone has managed to get a free
replacement of one or more batteries under warranty, when it or they failed
within the warranty period. I've had battery dealers tell me that they
considered road EV use "abuse." In the case of a marine battery, they might
be right!
As I see it - if the warranty works for you, great, but it's no substitute
for choosing appropriate batteries for the application in the first place.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Steve and All,
The Ewoody used a GE Citi-car motor, battery
charger and I had all kinds of problems with the brushes
before I put in a new brush holder which is easily damaged.
With a new holder and brushes, it has worked fine ever since
at about 130-150% overload, amps. Parts are fairly cheap
from golf cart shops as there are used in the 8-12 passenger
transporters many parks, ect use.
The 1 I got had a very weak frame so was not
impressed with it.
But recently I've seen a later Sebring
version that had a good front end with disc brakes even!!! I
hadn't known they were that good and I'll help the guy by
using field weakening to go 50-55 mph or so. He figured out
it wouldn't go because of micro switches so I think we have
another EVer. I'll just teach him about taking care of
batteries and he's go to go!!
It has a Curtis I believe so we'll have to
see if it's fast enough to get out of it's own way. If not,
revert back to a contactor controller for real power.
Jerry Dycus
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: city car brushes
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 16:05:20 -0400
>I got a city car to work on , it runs but the motor was
>getting hot ,, I looked at the brushes and two where just
>falling apart in the holders . the holder was holding the
>cracked peices together .. com looked good , no sigh of a
>lifted com bar . I replaced with some golf cart motor
>brushes that looked the same size , thing runs about the
>same , but cooler . what would make the brushes do this ,
>the other two looked good .. I noticed that the bursh
>holder was a little lose ,, like maybe from brunning
>backing I found myself likeing this little ev the more I
>drove it and after setting up a new go pebble ... steve
>clunn
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Thanks John and James,
I gave it a shot and I could not make it work. Thanks anyway.
James, in answer to your question, this was supposed to be an electric
assisted bike. I am not giving up, just changing course. I am going to use a
different motor. Great and fun learning experience though (taking it all
apart...
Orlando S. Ferrassoli
Operations
Ph: 661 273-2220
Ph: 800 778-5678
Fx: 661 273-2221
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
website: www.freight-ways.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 5:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Reverse rotation
At 02:48 PM 31/03/07 -0800, John Wayland wrote:
>Hello Orlando and All,
>
>Orlando Ferrassoli wrote:
>
>>I would like to know if it is possible
>>to reverse the rotation of the motor. It is a 120 volt, 10 amps skill hand
>>saw motor 2 1/3 hp. It rotates counterclockwise, but I need it to rotate
>>clockwise where I would like to mount it. Is there any hope?
>
>Short answer...no. That motor is a series-wound type, also known a s a
>universal type, because it can run on AC or DC. In the application it was
>created for, there was never a need to reverse its rotation, thus one of
>the armature connections and one of the field connections are tied
>together 'inside' the motor. In order to reverse a series wound motor, you
>have to have access to both armature connections (brushes) and both field
>connections, so you can reverse either the field or armature connections
>in relation to each other. If you can't get to the inside
>field-to-armature tie point, you won't be able to reverse this motor.
G'day John, Orlando and All
John, if he is making an EV project with a skill saw motor, then he's a
'hack' having a go. Let's encourage the interest, rather than say "no"
let's say "maybe".
In order to reverse a series wound motor you need to get at the wires where
they go into the brushes, in my limited experience of power tool repairs
you should be able to get at the brush holder wires, often they are just on
with spade connectors or some other push on connection, other times they
are on by being crimped to part of the holder. I don't recall being into a
Skill saw, so I can't give you a specific. You should be able to get at the
wires, cut and join onto them and reverse the connections.
Now here is likely to be the real problem, in the brushes are quite likely
advanced for the direction of rotation, look at the brushes where they sit
(usually straight across or up-and-down in the saw body). Look at the
windings and see if they are turned in the body. If it is then they are
advanced and your motor will not like to run the other way, without turning
the brushes or windings to be offset on the "other side" of the rotated
position. It will run, but not efficiently and will get hot.
OK, if it is sitting square in the body, now look at the output gear. The
end of the shaft probably has a helical gear cut into it that drives the
reduction for the blade arbour. In its' 'normal' direction it either pushes
or pulls the rotor due to this helical cut. If it pulled, it will push now,
and vice-versa. Check that the body has some means of taking this end force.
If you have got this far, be aware that the switch on the saw is not rated
for DC and will fail the first time you go to turn it off - you will need a
DC rated switch or contactor to do the job.
And once past that, have fun with your project! (What is it, BTW, assisted
bicycle, scooter...?)
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: robert mat
> Anybody have schematic for an $8 voltage clamper/limiter,
> said to work well?
My zener-lamp regulators (described on the EV list many times) can be built for
this price. They bypass about 0.5 amps max, and use the battery posts as their
heatsink.
My Battery Balancer <http://www.geocities.com/sorefeets/balancerland> is a bit
more expensive, but could be done for this if you are a good scrounger and used
lower-power parts.
--
"Those who say it cannot be done should not interrupt the one who is
doing it." -- Chinese proverb
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
Killacycle ended the day with 8.210 @ 155.59. Looks
like another scourched rear motor (details unknown
yet) but the boys are happy and planning 2 more run
tomorrow cranking it up harder.
more later
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not a bad idea but I looked up FRN fuses and it said they were a delay type.
Would they be fast enough to stop this from happening?
Don
In a message dated 3/31/2007 8:36:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I usually put a fuse in middle of the battery string such as a "FRN" type.
This can be sized to never blow except for catastrophic cases like the one
described. Flange type fuses can be drilled and mounted on home made base
without an expensive fuseholder, since they will only be infrequently if
ever changed.
On Sat, 31 Mar 2007 03:11:52 EDT, Theoldcars wrote
> I hope anyone who has a pack voltage over 120 volts or is thinking
> of adding batteries that will increase their existing voltage to
> exceed 120 volts is aware of an extreme danger of an arc flash
> explosion. It seems common knowledge about using gloves, face
> shields, and one hand behind your back.
>
> Yesterday I had my first and hope last flash arc experience. It was
> such an astounding event I Google to learn more about what happened.
> Words do not even come close to describing it. It was about as
> loud as a large m-60 firecracker, blinding bright, and a very very
> hot expanding explosion.
>
> If copper is in the arc the expansion rate is 40,000 to 1 when the
> arc vaporizes copper. With vaporized copper you have for an instant
> a path that is transferring an unbelievable amount of power into
> heat. Clothing that is made of a polyester blend is not something
> you want on.
>
> I cannot say how strongly I recommend you at least read what I
> found below searching Google on "Arc Flash". Although this is
> mostly about electricians I can assure you the danger from a pack
> of batteries is very real. You may not receive an electrical shock
> but you will be exposed to an unbelievable amount of heat.
>
> Don
>
> The cause of the short normally burns away during the initial flash
> and the arc fault is then sustained by the establishment of a
> highly-conductive plasma. The plasma will conduct as much energy as
> is available and is only limited by the impedance of the arc. This
> massive energy discharge burns the bus bars, vaporizing the copper
> and thus causing an explosive volumetric increase, the arc blast,
> conservatively estimated, as an expansion of 40,000 to 1. This
> fiery explosion devastates everything in its path, creating deadly
> shrapnel as it dissipates.
>
> Based on available statistics, it's expected that the explosive
> energy released during an arc blast will send more than 2,000 North
> American electrical workers to burn centers each year. The sad
> thing is that most of these workers will not have been properly
> warned of the magnitude of the hazard [UTF-8?]— if they're warned at
all.
> Although arc blast injuries are not as frequent as other electrical
> injuries, their severity makes the costs to human life and to
> industry as a whole much, much greater.
>
> Arc Flash is a short circuit that flashes from one exposed live
> conductor to another, or to ground. The resulting ionized air
> creates electrically conductive superheated plasma that can reach
> temperatures of 5000°F and above. The explosion takes less than
> one second and produces a brilliant flash, intense heat, and a
> pressure blast equivalent to several sticks of dynamite.
> Consider... an electrical arc may reach a temperature in excess of
> the surface of the sun. This causes vaporization of copper in the
> arc zone. Its expansion, combined with that of the superheated of
> surrounding air, creates a deadly plasma mixture that is
> explosively blasted from the fault zone, with heavy concussive
> forces imposed on nearby personnel.
>
> What is Arc Flash?
>
> Electrical workers are exposed to a number of hazards whenever they
> work live, including electrical shock. But arc flash is another
> hazard that can cause serious injury or death - even if an employee
> doesn't come into direct contact with an energized conductor.
>
> What is Arc Flash?
> Arc flash is a short circuit through air that flashes over from one
> exposed live conductor to another conductor or to ground. Arc flash
> incidents are common and costly, and the frequency of reported
> accidents is increasing. This is why arc flash has become a very
> hot topic within OSHA and the safety industry overall
>
> What Causes Arc Flash?
> Arc flashes can be caused in a variety of ways:
> Just coming close to a high-amp source with a conductive object can
> cause the electricity to flash over. Dropping a tool or otherwise
> creating a spark can ignite an arc flash. Equipment failure due to
> use of substandard parts, improper installation, or even normal
> wear and tear. Breaks or gaps in insulation. Dust, corrosion or
> other impurities on the surface of the conductor.
>
> How Common Is Arc Flash?
> In the past, if someone suffered burns in an electrical accident,
> people thought the burns were caused by the electrical shock
> passing through the body. Electrical shocks can cause burns. But
> what research has shown is that most burns from electrical accidents
> actually come from arc flash. The majority of hospital admissions
> due to electrical accidents are from arc flash burns, not from
> electrical shocks. (Taken from NFPA 70E-2004 standard) Of the
> approximately 350 persons killed in the work place by electricity
> last year, roughly 50% were related to arch flash. A report
> compiled by Capelli-Schellpfeffer, Inc., estimates that five to 10
> arc flash explosions happen in the USA every day, resulting in 1 to
> 2 deaths per day. That figure only in takes into account incidents
> where victims were sent to special burn centers. The number does
> not include cases sent to regular hospitals or clinics, nor
> unreported cases or near misses. What Kind of Injuries Can Arch
> Flash Cause? What is the impact of these accidents and what types
> of injuries can they cause? Injuries from arc flash accidents tend
> to be very severe, and result from two types of hazards: arc flash
> and arc blast.
>
> Arc Flash: Electric arcs produce intense heat, and can heat the air
> to temperatures as high as 35,000 degrees Fahrenheit. This is 4
> times the surface temperature of the sun. Fatal burns can occur
> when the victim is several feet from the arc. Serious burns are
> not uncommon even at a distance of 10 feet. Arc flash can cause
> the following injuries: Skin burns by direct heat exposure Metal is
> vaporized at this temperature. Droplets of molten metal can be
> propelled over great distances, causing serious burns or igniting
clothing.
> High-intensity flash can also cause damage to eyesight.
> Arc Blast: a high-energy arcing fault can produce a considerable
> pressure wave and sound blast. The intense heat from arc causes
> the sudden expansion of air, resulting in a blast.
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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