Thank-you Roger, I had hoped you would respond, you are one of the treasures on this list.. The green wire is insulated now and has been since I recieved the car, but I have no idea what may have happened before the car was delivered to me. I will check the continuity as you suggest and I have experience in this area so I will look inside if needed. So do I understand that even if I set this unit up to charge from a 230V line it still would not be adequate for these batteries? Is there another profile that could be better suited than even #5, or enough better to be worth sending it off for re-programming? This is not my car, I am just installing the batteries supplied by the owner along with some other work on it to try to pay him back for the loan of the car to make body molds to be able to make a body for my Tropica chassis. I want to get it in the best condition I can for the kindness he has shown me before I send it back.

I had looked at the Delta-Q site but the support page appeared to indicate that it is for OEMs only. If the check of the fuse and relay don't turn up anything, I'll try submitting a service request through that page.

respectfully,
John
----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Stockton" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Another Delta-Q question


John Neiswanger wrote:

I have been asked to change the batteries in a Tropica from 12 ea 6V
floodies to 6 ea 12V Odyssey 31-PC2150s. It has a Delta-Q Quiq7212 charger
model 910-7200 and serial DQCP720316000162.

Please be aware that Odyssey/Hawker/Enersys recommend/require significantly higher initial charge current than can be delivered to a 72V pack this size from a 120V outlet, or by a 1kW charger such as the 72V Delta-Q QuiQ that you presently have.

The charger is showing that it is set for algorithm 11 and that it appears
to also have 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,&27 profiles available.

Of the profiles in your charger, #5 is likely to provide the best performance with this battery.

It also is showing six flashes on the red error light
when I let it try to charge. I of course don't have a manual but the info
I can glean off the web claims that this is an "internal error" and all
that can be done is to cycle the power or send it in for repair.

So is the error info correct and where would the repair depot be for
northern california?  I presume that if it does go in for repair then the
correct charge profile could be set at that time.

The serial number you state identifies that this charger is several years old, and therefore is both out of warranty and unable to be updated with newer software or algorithms without being returned to Delta-Q.

If the fault #6 indication persists when you power cycle the charger (remove AC for at least 30 seconds to ensure the charger has fully reset), then the charger has detected a possible fault with the DC output relay or output fuse.

If you refer to the manual the Bruce P. linked to, you will find Figure 2 on page 3 that shows the output relay and output fuse (F1), and how they connect to the external wiring. The most common cause of a fault #6 is that the recommended external fuse (F2 on the diagram) has not been provided by the user, and at some point (usually during installation or removal of the charger), the green interlock wire from the charger was allowed to short to the vehicle chassis or elsewhere while the battery pack is connected to the red (B+) wire. This event can result in the internal DC fuse F1 opening, which will result in the fault #6 and an inoperative charger.

The Delta-Q website lists contact info for our distributors, so you can identify if there is one near you, and the same page provides the contact info for our customer support team, who can advise you on the repairability of your unit as well as where it would need to be sent for service:

<http://www.delta-q.com/contact#list:international-battery>

Given that this charger is out of warranty, the most practical option may be to have a qualified technician replace the DC output fuse for you locally. Before opening the charger, you can check the condition of the fuse by testing for continuity between the red and green wires with the charger disconnected from AC and from the battery. If there is no continuity, then the output fuse is probably open. If there is continuity, then there is likely an issue with the DC output relay.

The fuse is a DC-rated leaded ceramic-bodied unit and is soldered to the PC board in the corner where the DC cable enters the charger.

Hope this helps,

Roger.

_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)


_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Reply via email to