EAA Chapters can usually be tapped into to find a way to re-cast the post, if it is not too damaged, deep into the battery. Since you are in Silicon Valley, CA I will use one of its zip codes 94041 in my searches.
Contact the Silicon Valley EAA Chapter eaaev.org , and the San Jose EAA Chapter http://rotordesign.com/sjeaa/ A long time ago Don Gillis of the San Jose EAA Chapter used to have a battery exchange program (turn your to-be-replaced pack into Don and get truly dead cores from Don to turn into the dealer. Then Don would go through the old packs and find several that still had some measurable life left in them). I am not sure if he is still doing that (times change). email me offline if you do not have his email address. Here are couple places near you to call and ask if they re-cast lead posts: Interstate All Battery Center (408) 295-9046 295 Phelan Ave., San Jose, CA 95112 Interstate Battery Systems (650) 692-5949 1680 Gilbreth Rd., Burlingame, CA 94010 Exide Technologies (510) 656-1975 47610 Kato Rd., Fremont, CA The picture-link you provided shows your pack is US145's. The alternative if you do not find a way to reclaim the burnt battery, is to replace it. But since the US Battery dealer Jim Ramos is all the way across the SF Bay, you could look to replacing it with a US145 equivalent: Exide GC-2-H Interstate Batteries 2400S Trojan T145 ... Off the cuff, personally, your 12V Aux pack (two 6V US 145's) may have very light demands. I would buy a cheap low capacity 6V traction battery from a dealer. It would make your 12V Aux string have less capacity, but with a light load that should not matter. i.e.: http://www.sears.com/search=battery+golf A $90 Sears 6V battery {brucedp.150m.com} - On Thu, Mar 28, 2013, at 01:18 PM, Cor van de Water wrote: > Yesterday on my way from work I lost all motive power in my EV truck, > > after an initial warning when I just entered the freeway of a short > > power loss but since I was eager to get where I was going to and did > > not want to pull off the freeway, I kept going. Frankly - I hardly > > recognised the brief loss of power as a warning that something was > > amiss, but I would soon found out that the warning was serious > > and I should have taken action right away. > > Few more miles down the road I was about to go up an overpass > > where freeways intersect and I lost all power. Lights still worked > > so 12V was still available but no power from the pack. > > I was still hopefull that my 200A breaker finally tripped on my > > sustained 300A draws while I coasted to the side of the road, > > but looking under the hood I saw the breaker still in ON position. > > I turned it off anyway and back on - maybe it would reset something? > > But no - still no power, even the display in the car did not light. > > Hmmm - that meant that there was actually no power from the pack, > > not some controller error. > > Grabbing the multimeter I checked and indeed - no voltage from > > the pack. The front 4 batteries were fine and delivered 6.2V each > > so I undid the bolts for the bed and lifted it up (after walking back > > 50 yards to set out a warning cone on the edge of the shoulder > > since my hazard lights are not visible much with the bed lifted). > > > > In the middle of the pack I spotted a yellow blur under a clamp > > that was desperately holding onto air.... Where did the post go? > > As you can see on this picture: > > http://evalbum.com/popupimg.php?24271 > > the post melted and the lead had run onto the next battery, > > covering the entire width of that battery with a strip of lead. > > More pics on the EValbum page: http://evalbum.com/4259 > > > > Luckily with a wrench I could undo the damaged interconnect > > (the clamp on the other side, on the next battery) and move > > the clamp from the other post of the damaged battery to the > > now free clamp on the next battery, removing the bad one > > from the string and continuing on my way on a 114V pack. > > > > Anyone a recommendation where I can best have a post re-cast? > > I am in San Francisco South Bay area (AKA silicon valley). > > > > I have an alternative for the damaged battery, since the truck is > > setup up with 22 identical batteries - 2 are used as aux battery > > and serve as spares, so I can swap one of those into the pack > > and only need to connect to the damaged battery for the aux > > load, which is typical no more than 20A instead of the 300A that > > the pack will see. Still I prefer to have a post again on this battery. - -- http://www.fastmail.fm - The professional email service _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
