Why recast it? Drill it and put in a bolt. Especially if used only for 12v. You can get self-tapping bolts at hardware store. On Mar 28, 2013 2:18 PM, "Cor van de Water" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Yesterday on my way from work I lost all motive power in my EV truck, > > after an initial warning when I just entered the freeway of a short > > power loss but since I was eager to get where I was going to and did > > not want to pull off the freeway, I kept going. Frankly - I hardly > > recognised the brief loss of power as a warning that something was > > amiss, but I would soon found out that the warning was serious > > and I should have taken action right away. > > Few more miles down the road I was about to go up an overpass > > where freeways intersect and I lost all power. Lights still worked > > so 12V was still available but no power from the pack. > > I was still hopefull that my 200A breaker finally tripped on my > > sustained 300A draws while I coasted to the side of the road, > > but looking under the hood I saw the breaker still in ON position. > > I turned it off anyway and back on - maybe it would reset something? > > But no - still no power, even the display in the car did not light. > > Hmmm - that meant that there was actually no power from the pack, > > not some controller error. > > Grabbing the multimeter I checked and indeed - no voltage from > > the pack. The front 4 batteries were fine and delivered 6.2V each > > so I undid the bolts for the bed and lifted it up (after walking back > > 50 yards to set out a warning cone on the edge of the shoulder > > since my hazard lights are not visible much with the bed lifted). > > > > In the middle of the pack I spotted a yellow blur under a clamp > > that was desperately holding onto air.... Where did the post go? > > As you can see on this picture: > > http://evalbum.com/popupimg.php?24271 > > the post melted and the lead had run onto the next battery, > > covering the entire width of that battery with a strip of lead. > > More pics on the EValbum page: http://evalbum.com/4259 > > > > Luckily with a wrench I could undo the damaged interconnect > > (the clamp on the other side, on the next battery) and move > > the clamp from the other post of the damaged battery to the > > now free clamp on the next battery, removing the bad one > > from the string and continuing on my way on a 114V pack. > > > > Anyone a recommendation where I can best have a post re-cast? > > I am in San Francisco South Bay area (AKA silicon valley). > > > > I have an alternative for the damaged battery, since the truck is > > setup up with 22 identical batteries - 2 are used as aux battery > > and serve as spares, so I can swap one of those into the pack > > and only need to connect to the damaged battery for the aux > > load, which is typical no more than 20A instead of the 300A that > > the pack will see. Still I prefer to have a post again on this battery. > > > > Regards, > > Cor van de Water > Chief Scientist > Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com > <http://www.proxim.com> > Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info > <http://www.cvandewater.infom> > Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130328/5637baa0/attachment.htm > > > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130329/540168e0/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
