I find that my 6800 lb pickup with a manual transmission with a WarP 11 and a Z1k start rolling out at 1 rpm, cause the battery ampere to peak at about 300 amps. The motor ampere to 600 ampere. Stop on a hill and starting out, could go to 800 amps which is the maximum motor ampere the Z1k is program for.
On level grade in town driving with this set up, I use about four AH per mile. I did a lot of research on automatic transmissions that will hold up to this amount of motor torque at start up. I talk to race car mechanics, transmission shops who modified these transmission for very low rpm lockup which still reduces the life of the transmission, Some EV drivers install there automatic transmission in standard mode without changing anything and worn out the clutch pack in with 1000 miles. This is cause by the torque converter having too high of a lock up rpm for a engine. The transmission mechanic recommended to change a heavy duty automatic transmission to a manual mode type. This was done by replacing the valve body to a manual valve body. Remove the governor control module that controls the rpm shifting. If the transmission if a electronic control type, than replace computer or reprogram the computer for a lower stall speed or if it is a vacuum modulator control transmission, this modulator is plug off when using a manual valve body. The new computer control automatics transmissions in the new high performance vehicles have a selector lever on the steering column that can select the automatic or manual mode and can select with a lever on a paddle shifter or a console shifter. So I told the transmission shop to build me up a automatic/manual transmission with direct drive floating shaft from the motor coupler flange to the transmission oil pump. The EV motor is the drive motor that pumps up the oil pressure in the pump. At about 200 rpm, the EV will start to move. The only problem if you press the accelerator too fast, the EV will do a violet acceleration at the start. This is ok for racing, but not park between two cars. The transmission which happen to be a TH-400 has two pump oil ports for connection to a external oil pump. The shop install a pump and this was more violent start out. In the transmission shop, we started up the motor and when I just press the accelerator, BAM the EV actual jump a bit and the transmission shot out oil through the vent tube on to the floor. Race cars use a oil recovery system to cycle the oil back to the transmission. They may have to rebuilt the transmission after each race. So we remove the direct drive shaft and install a low rpm torque converter which can move the EV at 200 rpm. The bell housing for the TH-400 is very large diameter that will house a 14 inch diameter torque converter which is need for this low starting rpm. The torque converter stall rpm is chosen to match the SWEET SPOT of the motor. This is the rpm of the motor where the maximum torque is at the maximum HP of the motor. Talking to Net Gain, this happens to be about 1800 for a WarP 11 motor, so that is the stall rpm of the torque is selected. I question the amount of lag from 200 to 1800 rpm, the master mechanic said the torque converting start to lock up at 200 rpm adds a 1.8:1 ratio to the overall ratio gear ratios of the EV. The first gear of the transmission using the manual transmission was 3,5 in 1st gear and the differential at 5.57. The overall ratio is 3.5 x 5.57 = 19.495:1 which is 4 ah per mile at 25 mph. The first gear of the automatic transmission is 1.8 (torque converter) x 2.75 x 5.57 = 27.57:1 which is 3.3 ah per mile at 25 mph I shift the transmission into the next gear at 1800 motor rpm (maximum lock) and shift into the next gear when the rpm increases to 1800 again. The shifting from each gear to the next is so smooth, it not like shifting at all. The maximum continuous motor ampere is 200 amperes while the battery ampere is 75 ampere. Shifting at the 1800 rpm sweet spot, the motor ampere maintains 200 ampere through out the increase of speed and shift points. At a steady speed at 25 to 45 mph (max town driving) the motor ampere drops to 150 motor ampere and 50 battery ampere. I find when I was driving my EV with the manual transmission coming to a short stop and go, I would let up the accelerator about a half block from the stop and press in the clutch to allow the motor to continue in spinning. Press the accelerator again and the power up of the motor is about 100 amps less than if I allow the motor to go to 0 rpm. To do this method of stop and go with the automatic transmission, I can switch in another 5k pot in series with the existing 5k accelerator pot. The 5k pot is pre adjusted to where the EV will not move, but leaves the motor turning. I use a 2 position on the dash that selects Idle On and Idle Off. If I have a long stop, I will switch to idle off and before I start to move again, I will turn on the idle switch again which gives a smooth start out at a lower ampere. The idle switch became very handy when stopping on a steep hill with a vehicle in front and rear of a EV. With the manual transmission this become a hazard when you tried hold the brake and work the accelerator without hitting the car behind you. Roland ________________________________ From: Barry <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Sent: Tuesday, October 8, 2013 12:40 PM Subject: [EVDL] Feasibility question Short version Is an F150 with 4 x4 and automatic transmission possible? Long version My current EV is a Saturn Vue, which I converted myself and have been using as my daily car for almost five years. Given the appearance of OEM EV's I am planning on getting an OEM EV in the next two years. This means I will no longer have a need for my Vue. I could try to sell the Vue but the resale value of DIY EV's does not appear to be high. Another option is I could try to sell off the parts and use the Lithium batteries for my backup solar. But again the market for used EV parts is limited. What I would like to do is re-task all of the EV components to my 1998 F150. I put less that 2000 mile a year on this vehicle and primarily use it for winter plowing and hauling stuff. Really long version So I've looked over the EVDL archives, diyelectriccar.com, and evalbum for similar conversions. Trucks have been done. Automatics less so. Don't see any similar four wheel drives. Question: 1. Will my 9" net gain and 1K Zilla be sufficient? 2. Is it easier to swap the automatic with a manual or keep the automatic and run a separate electric motor for any transmission pumps needed? 3. My understanding is that the hubs are unlocked (2WD) when vacuum is applied and locked (4WD) when the vacuum is interrupted. Is keeping this feature as simple as just having a vacuum pump for the 4WD? 4. Other than this truck I've never had an automatic transmission vehicle. Anything else I might be missing (transmission cooler pumps, differential associated stuff, etc). Thanks in advance, Barry Oppenheim Wrightstown, PA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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