Oops, I've not done this once in 50k miles!  I used the Calb-supplied
hardware, which was stainless hex bolts, stainless washers and what looked
like spring steel lock washers.  Can't get NoAlOx here so didn't use it..




On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:49 PM, Bill Dube <[email protected]> wrote:

> You have to sand the terminals and immediately apply NoAlOx, just like
> Mark says. A thin layer is best as a thick layer will slowly ooze out and
> the terminal will become loose.
>
> Re torquing is needed, but probably not every 10k miles. Likely just the
> first 5k to 10k and then maybe at 30k or 40k.
>
> Bellville washers help.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
>
> Bill D.
>
>
> On 1/6/2014 7:22 AM, Michael Ross wrote:
>
>> I recently took apart a nice little OEM battery pack and every terminal on
>> it was barely hand tight.  I reassembled with SS socket head screws
>> instead
>> of the Phillips screws, and torqued the 5mm bolts to spec.  All you need
>> to
>> do is torque them right and they will not loosen.  Do not use lock washers
>> as they compromise the clamping force. If you look at bolted joints on
>> high
>> quality equipment you will find properly designed joints with no
>> lubrication or thread-locker - they just torque the right.  I worked for
>> Caterpillar and can vouch for their practices - needed to survive the
>> worst
>> vibration environments imaginable.  My Toyota cars over the last 30 years
>> are all produced this way.  I don't use conductive grease, I just go with
>> clean and tight.
>>
>> For reference:
>>
>> 1 N m = 8.8in lb = 0.74bft lb
>>
>> I tightened the 5's to 35 in lb (4 Nm).
>>
>> Unfortunately, there are a lot of units for measuring torque.   Inch
>> pounds
>> are best for the small wrenches we have in the US.
>>
>> My joints were the terminals of 32120 cells, SS M5 screws, with nickel
>> plated copper straps, and stainless steel flat washers (lock washers
>> thrown
>> away).  I am not sure what the terminal with the tapped threads is made
>> from.  It is s tamped and formed part, maybe SS, but could be a plated
>> brass or copper...
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 7:26 AM, Mark Hanson <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Hi Folk's,
>>> last night a overvoltage battery balancer #22 shut down the charger at
>>> 4.0V.  At first I thought it was a bad OV balancer detector but after
>>> replacing the circuit it still did it so I put a scope across the battery
>>> cell and noticed the charging pulsed waveform going from 3.3V to 4.0V 60
>>> hz
>>> when adjacent cells were fairly solid (signifying a high impedance
>>> condition).  I thought I had a bad cell but after sanding under the
>>> copper
>>> strap & adding 3M dielectric grease & torquing back down, it charged
>>> perfectly with no faults, back to low impedance.  I found a few other
>>> battery terminal bolts not tight after 20k miles (even with sealing paint
>>> on terminal bolts CALB 130).  So it's best to tighten terminal bolts on
>>> lithiums every 10k miles it seams.  I used to tighten terminal bolts on
>>> old
>>> lead GC batteries every 500 miles but didn't think it was necessary with
>>> lithiums but apparently they need it as well just less often.
>>> Best Regards,mark
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>>
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