Martin,

I have no experience with the aluminum post cells.  But it is just
aluminum.  Aluminum is elastic and will not take a set, so it is just fine
for torquing to a level that will not give up.  From my POV there is not
much more to be said about it.  The use  of split washes concentrates the
clamping forces and make the joint less effective. They are a waste of
money and stack height from a design engineer's POV.  But if you use them
it is probably not a problem.  They only work as a lock after the joint is
completely loose, however; and they don't actually stop the joint from
loosening before that point.  The loss of joint clamping force is caused by
materials in the joint stretching or compressing.   You won't find a split
washer on a Cat, Deere, Toyota, Ford, you name it product.  However they
are popular no denying that. With Al  for a threaded member you don't need
hardened washers, because you can't clamp hard enough to get utility from
them. But you do want flat, clean, metal only, parts in the stack.
 Belleville washers are not a bad idea, they help maintain clamping force
as a joint loosens.  Maybe the Norlocks do some of that too.


Dave Roden,

Head bolts have hardened flat washers.  They use large fasteners as and
torque them VERY high to completely take any compliance out of the head
gasket, and many use a torque to yield technique where you don't even
measure the torque* per se *- you torque until the bolt stretches
permanently.  With good steel and high quality manufacture you can take a
head bolt into the plastic range and it will not be damaged to cause
failure, if you do this you get the maximum force possible.


Lot's of nice replies, but I just hit these two for commenting in the short
time I have right now.


On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 11:09 AM, EVDL Administrator <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 8 Jan 2014 at 6:03, tomw wrote:
>
> > And while you are at it, remove those lock washers! :^))
>
> I'm really surprised to hear people say this.  I've used split washers and
> Bellville washers on batteries for 25+ years, and they've done me well.
>
> I also can't recall ever encountering any bolted battery connection on any
> commercial product that didn't have a lockwasher.  And think about it -
> have
> you ever seen any case in a vibrating, lurching vehicle where there wasn't
> something resilient (a head gasket for example) that lockwashers weren't
> used?
>
> One thing to be careful of is that you want your lug in direct contact with
> the battery terminal itself, with no washers between them to add
> resistance.
> You add the washer(s) between the fastener and the lug.
>
> Some discussion too of terminal glop.  With flooded batteries, I normally
> use petroleum jelly to exclude air and moisture.  Many years ago I got a
> free can of some kind of Cosmolene-like spray with an order of USBMC golf
> car batteries.  That stuff worked well too and was easy to use.  The key, I
> think, is that I put the goo on AFTER tightening the connection, not on the
> mating contact surfaces. (Though I've known people who DID use grease on
> mating surfaces.)
>
> I don't think I've ever bothered with grease when using valve regulated
> batteries, however.  Maybe I should have, but nothing bad has yet happened.
>
> To get back to the point, I'm pretty skeptical about washerless battery
> connections.  If you try this, please make sure you keep us updated on how
> it's going over time.  For now, though, I'm sticking with lockwashers.
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EVDL Administrator
>
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