On 13 Sep 2014 at 17:03, Sam Shepherd via EV wrote: > I did [check] the cell voltage of each cell with no real diferences.
If you didn't check the cell voltages under load, you need to do that. One way is to run a small gauge voltage-test pair to each cell, fused, with the other ends terminated on a non-shorting switch or terminal block where an assistant can read voltages as you drive. An easier way is to make a dummy load that can draw 75-150 amps from the battery while the car is parked and shut down. Folks have used coat hangers in barrels of water for this. I use heating elements from a derelict heat pump. There are probably many ways, some safer than others. As others have pointed out, this can also be a loose connection. Usually it's easy to find the culprit after a drive, because the terminal or connection will be hot. Watch your hands and fingers. Another possibility when on-load current suddenly increases is some fault in the drive train or running gear that's increased the physical drag on the car. Normally coast-down will happen faster in this case. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
