Hey everyone, thanks for all the suggestions and help. David, I verified the drivetrain doesn't have any binds by jacking rear of the cart up and I was able to spin the motor input spline by hand. I was also able to move the cart freely around the garage. I was able to recover two brush springs from the new motor, clean up the commutator with some fine grit on the original and get it back in the cart. It's alive again! I took for a couple runs up the road and back, clean up some snowbanks with the pig with the laptop attached to the controller. Motor was barely warm to the touch and the logs didn't show any sags or any other issues and the turbo option was still unchecked. There wan't a whole lot of snow to clear (all snow that wasn't clear is now rock hard from the last storm that had freezing rain at the end) so neither motor wasn't working super hard. After looking at the new motor again for a bit it starts to look clear something went terribly wrong shortly after installation or it was damaged before it went in. I suspect it could have been dropped during shipping- the rotor just floats inside the casing, only a small end bearing holds it in place before installation. That one brush that was torn off completely from it's mounting seems to indicate this or something bound it up and snapped it off. We may be getting some more wet snow/ rain/ freezing rain before I leave again so I hope I can test and check the motor again before I leave. I still have some to do's like getting some thermal monitoring in place for both motors and some ammeter monitoring like a Cycle Analyst. I currently only have a digital volt gauge so it's pretty light on displays. Thanks Bill for the tip to keep the motor from slow stalls I will watch my driving habits and break in a new brush set or motor when I get some replacements.
Cheers Dan On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 9:04 PM, Bill Dube via EV <[email protected]> wrote: > Yes, a week continuous. If time permits, two weeks. > On "forklift" style DC motors, the brushes will last for many, many years > of operation. When run on ~12 volts at zero load for a week, you just start > to get an a hint of curvature in a square-faced brush. Best to "pre-shape" > the brushes with a curve that is close to the commutator diameter or it > will take a looong time to break in the brushes. > > Bill D. > > > On 2/21/2015 5:35 PM, Rush Dougherty via EV wrote: > >> Bill wrote - >> >>> Also, you really need to break in a motor under light load for quite >>> some time >>> before giving it maximum amps. I spin the motors using ~12 volts for >>> about a >>> >> week >> >>> to break in the brushes. >>> >> Is that a week continuous? >> >> Rush >> Tucson AZ >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub >> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org >> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/ >> group/NEDRA) >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/ > group/NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150221/b83f139c/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
